JPS6045603A - Japanese clothings - Google Patents
Japanese clothingsInfo
- Publication number
- JPS6045603A JPS6045603A JP15361583A JP15361583A JPS6045603A JP S6045603 A JPS6045603 A JP S6045603A JP 15361583 A JP15361583 A JP 15361583A JP 15361583 A JP15361583 A JP 15361583A JP S6045603 A JPS6045603 A JP S6045603A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- front body
- japanese
- cut
- sewing
- back body
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 claims 2
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 14
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009751 slip forming Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Outerwear In General, And Traditional Japanese Garments (AREA)
Abstract
(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
この発明は用布の節減と裁縫工程の簡易化および出来上
った製品の着心地の良さを目的として為された和服に関
する。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a Japanese kimono made for the purpose of saving cloth, simplifying the sewing process, and making the finished product more comfortable to wear.
従来の和服は並幅ものまたは広幅ものの生地を用いて裁
断縫製されているものの、その身頃部裁断縫製のパター
ンはいずれも左右の前後身頃およびオクミを個別に裁断
縫製されていることに特徴があった。そのため必然的に
用布を多く必要とし、各縫合わせ部に要する裁断縫製。Traditional Japanese clothing is cut and sewn using medium- or wide-width fabric, but the pattern for cutting and sewing the bodice is unique in that the left and right front and back bodice and okumi are individually cut and sewn. Ta. Therefore, a large amount of fabric is inevitably required, and each seam requires cutting and sewing.
絵柄合わせなどの手数が多くかかつてコスト高を招いて
いた。特に着心地の点から身頃部に綾状の嵩高い縫合わ
せ部があり、これが綾状の前条となってゴワゴワし、自
然に垂れ添うしなやかな作用を喪失させており、そのた
め和服を着伺けた際に和服の身体への添いおよび裾はけ
を悪くしていることが、着心地を悪くしている最大の原
因であった。In the past, the cost was high because it involved a lot of work such as matching the patterns. In particular, from the point of view of comfort, there is a bulky twill-like seam on the body part, which becomes a twill-like front stripe, making it stiff and losing the supple effect that naturally hangs. The main reason why Japanese clothes are uncomfortable to wear is that they fit poorly against the body and have poor hemlines.
この発明はかかる和服における不都合を除去するため、
和服の裁断および縫製のパターンを根本的に考えなおす
ことより始まる。その発想は左右の後身頃、前身頃、オ
クミの各部分を左右方向に継目なしの一連巻状に形成す
ることを基礎として和服の身頃部構成を考えたもので、
即ち、広幅ものの生地を用いて左右の後身頃前身頃、オ
クミの部分をワザ部を介して一連に形成し、袖付部を設
けるべく前身1捷だは前身頃とオクミを上下に分離させ
て形成すると同時に、上部の前身頃を肩山て後身頃に連
続させて形成裁断し、該上下分離部分を縫着させて形成
した身頃部に袖および襟を縫着させて成ることを特徴と
する。In order to eliminate such inconveniences in Japanese clothing, this invention
It begins with a fundamental rethinking of the cutting and sewing patterns of Japanese clothing. The idea was to consider the body structure of Japanese clothing based on forming each part of the left and right back body, front body, and okumi in a seamless series of rolls in the left and right direction.
In other words, using a wide piece of fabric, the left and right rear body, front body, and open area are formed in a continuous manner via a waza part, and in order to provide a sleeve part, the front body and open area are separated vertically. At the same time, the upper front body is formed and cut so as to be continuous with the back body at the shoulder height, and the sleeves and collar are sewn to the body part formed by sewing the upper and lower separated parts.
この発明の実施例の一つを図面を用いて具体的に説明す
ると、広幅ものの生地、例えばダブル幅(1500m)
の生地(A)を用いて各々幅28.5am、長さ150
0mの左右の後身頃+2) (2+、幅23Cm。One of the embodiments of this invention will be specifically explained with reference to the drawings.
Width 28.5am and length 150mm each using fabric (A)
0m left and right back body +2) (2+, width 23cm.
長さ1100mの下部前身頃(lb)(lb)、幅15
cm、長さ110cmのオクミf3) (3)をそれぞ
れ左右方向にワザ部f14+ +14+で一連に形成し
、さらに左右の後身頃+2+ (21を長さの方向に4
.50m延長させて上部前身頃(la)(la)をそれ
ぞれ連続形成して裁断し、この上部前身頃(la)(l
a)を肩山+4++4)でそれぞれ前方へ折返すど共に
、左右の下部前身頃(1b)(]、b)をオクミ+31
(31とともに脇下でそれぞれ内向きに折返して、下
部前身頃(1bX1.b)の上端辺の縫い代+6+ +
61に」二部前身頃(1aX1a)下端辺の縫い代+5
+ +5)を突合わせ縫着f9) +9) して袖付部
t81 +8)を翁する身頃部(B)を形成する。次に
生地(A)の幅の残部で幅7cn1.長さ1800mの
襟(11)を、後身頃(2)に続く上部前身頃(1a)
と下部前身頃(1b)との角残部で幅32cm、長さ9
0cmの袖[10)+10+をそれぞれ形成裁断する。Lower front body length 1100m (lb) (lb), width 15
cm, length 110cm Okumi f3) (3) is formed in a series in the left and right direction with the work part f14+ +14+, and further the left and right back body +2+ (21 is formed in the length direction 4
.. The upper front body (la) (la) was continuously formed and cut by extending 50 m, and the upper front body (la) (l
Fold a) forward at shoulder height +4++4), and turn left and right lower front body parts (1b) (], b) to Okumi+31.
(Fold each part inward at the armpits along with 31, and seam allowance for the upper edge of the lower front body (1bX1.b) +6+ +
61" Two-part front body (1aX1a) Bottom edge seam allowance +5
+ +5) are butt-sewn f9) +9) to form the body part (B) that connects the sleeve part t81 +8). Next, the remaining width of fabric (A) is 7cn1. A collar (11) with a length of 1800m is attached to the upper front body (1a) following the back body (2).
and the remaining corner of the lower front body (1b), width 32cm, length 9
Form and cut 0cm sleeves [10)+10+ respectively.
この袖(10)(10)をワザ部(141(14iから
折返し構成して前記身頃部(B)の袖付部+8+ +8
+に、祢(11)を襟剃り部(12)にそれぞれ縫着し
て和服を構成する。この構成で単(ひとえ)もの、また
は袷(あわせ)ものに形成し、また袖001 祢(11
)の裁断縫着、あるいは各縫着部に針いて縫い代および
襟例り部(12)を設けることなどについてはこれ寸で
の和服と変わりはない0
上部前身頃(]a)およびこれと折返し状に相対する後
身頃(2)上部とのそれぞれの外側辺〔袖伺部(8)〕
に設けた縫い代(71(7+と、下部前身頃(1b)上
端辺の縫い代(6)との鉤状に接合する内角部に対角線
状の切込み(131+13+を入れてそれぞれ縫着させ
る実施態様にあっては、この切込み++31 (13+
を設けることにより、互いの縫い代+5+ +6+での
縫着過程における鉤状をなす接合内角部の始末作業が円
滑、容易となり、且つ嵩低く奇麗に縫着仕上げすること
かできる効果がある。These sleeves (10) (10) are folded back from the work part (141 (14i) to form the armhole part +8+ +8 of the body part (B).
+, the Japanese clothes are constructed by sewing the 熢 (11) to the collar shaving part (12). With this configuration, it can be made into a single item or a lined item, and can also be made into a sleeve 001 ne (11
) Cutting and sewing, or sewing each sewn part to create a seam allowance and a lapel part (12), etc., are the same as Japanese clothes of this size 0 Upper front body part (]a) and folding Each outer side of the upper part of the back body (2) facing the shape [sleeve cover part (8)]
In this embodiment, a diagonal cut (131+13+) is made in the inner corner where the seam allowance (71 (7+)) and the seam allowance (6) on the upper edge of the lower front body (1b) are joined in a hook shape. So, this cut ++31 (13+
By providing this, it is possible to smoothly and easily finish the hook-shaped inner corner of the seam in the process of sewing together seam allowances of +5+ +6+, and it is possible to finish sewing neatly with a low bulk.
上記のように和服を構成するについての生地の裁断縫製
において、広幅ものの生地を用いて左右の後身頃、前身
頃、オクミの各部分を左右方向の一連に継目なしに形成
し、前身頃まだはnil身頃とオクミを上下に分離して
その上部を肩山で後身頃に緊がらぜて裁断し、この上下
分離部分を縫着することにより上部前身頃がら肩山を経
て後身頃上部にかけての外側辺に袖付部を設けて身頃部
を形成する。このように和服の身頃部における後身頃、
前身頃、オクミの各部分同士はいずれも縫合わせ部のな
い一連に繋がっているだめ、用布が少なくて済み、各縫
合わせ部での絵柄模様など柄合わせの煩わしさや、縫店
の手数などがかからないこと勿論であるが、この発明に
あっては身頃部に網状の硬くて嵩高い縫合わせ部が全く
ないため、着付けの際和服が身体によく添って馴染み易
く、ことに帯から下の身頃部か自然に垂れ添うべくしな
やかに作用し、これが身体への美しい和服のラインを形
成すると共に、裾さばきが非常によくなって美しく立振
舞いができ容易に着崩れし々いなど和服の着易さに著し
い効果がある。As mentioned above, when cutting and sewing the fabric for constructing Japanese clothes, the left and right back body, front body, and okumi parts are formed seamlessly in the left and right direction using a wide piece of fabric. Separate the nil body and okumi into upper and lower parts, tighten the upper part to the back body at the shoulder peak, and cut it. By sewing this upper and lower separated part, the outer side of the upper front body passes through the shoulder peak and extends to the upper part of the back body. A body part is formed by providing sleeve parts on the sides. In this way, the back part of the body part of Japanese clothes,
Each part of the front body and the okumi are connected in a series without seams, which means less fabric is needed, and there is no need to worry about matching patterns such as patterns at each seam, and the labor required by the sewing shop. Of course, this invention does not have any stiff, bulky seams in the body area, so the Japanese clothes fit snugly against the body when worn, especially from the obi down. The body part naturally hangs together, forming a beautiful line of the kimono to the body, and the hem is very well-handled, allowing for beautiful movements and making the kimono easy to wear. It has a remarkable effect.
【図面の簡単な説明】
第1図はこの発明を実施せる和服の正面図、第2図は同
背面図、第3図は、この発明の第1]服を構成する各部
を生地での形成裁断状態で示す展開平面図、第4図(d
同身頃部の縫着過程の一部縫着状態を示す正面図である
。
符号中、(A)は生地、(I3)は身頃部、(1)は前
身頃、(1a)il−j:上部前身頃、(lb)U下部
前身頃、+21 +a:後身頃、(3)はオクミ、(4
)は肩山、(8)は袖イマj部、(9)は縫着部、(1
0)は袖、(11)は襟、++3) (d切込み部、(
14)はワザ部を示す。
第2図
第1図[BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS] Figure 1 is a front view of a Japanese dress in which the present invention can be carried out, Figure 2 is a back view of the same, and Figure 3 is a front view of a Japanese dress in which the present invention can be practiced. Developed plan view in cut state, Figure 4 (d
It is a front view showing a partially sewn state of the same body part in the sewing process. In the code, (A) is fabric, (I3) is body part, (1) is front body part, (1a) il-j: upper front body part, (lb) U lower front body part, +21 +a: back body part, (3 ) is Okumi, (4
) is the top of the shoulder, (8) is the j part of the sleeve, (9) is the seam part, (1
0) is the sleeve, (11) is the collar, ++3) (d notch, (
14) shows the technique part. Figure 2 Figure 1
Claims (1)
左右の後身頃、前身頃、オクミを左右方向に継目なしの
一連に形成し、前身頃または前身頃とオクミを上下に分
離して上部前身頃を肩山にて後身頃に連なるべく形成裁
断し、この上下分離部分を縫着して外側辺を袖付部とし
て身頃部を構成し、該身頃部に袖および襟を縫着した和
服。 2、前身頃または前身頃、オクミの胸腹部あたりに上下
分離部を形成し、この分離部における下部前身頭重たは
下部前身頃と下部オクミの縫い代に鉤状に続く後身頃の
袖付部縫い代との接合内角部に切込みを入れて成る特許
請求の範囲第1項記載の和服。[Claims] 1. Constructing Japanese clothes using wide-width fabric,
The left and right back body, front body, and back body are formed in a seamless series in the left and right direction, and the front body or the front body and the back body are separated vertically, and the upper front body is formed and cut so as to be connected to the back body at the shoulder peak. The upper and lower separated parts are sewn together to form a body part with the outer side as a sleeve part, and sleeves and a collar are sewn to the body part. 2. Form a top and bottom separation part around the chest and abdomen of the front body or the front body, and create a seam allowance for the sleeve part of the back body that continues in a hook shape from the lower front body head weight in this separation part or the seam allowance between the lower front body and the lower body. The Japanese clothing according to claim 1, wherein a cut is made in the inner corner of the joint.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP15361583A JPS6045603A (en) | 1983-08-22 | 1983-08-22 | Japanese clothings |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP15361583A JPS6045603A (en) | 1983-08-22 | 1983-08-22 | Japanese clothings |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS6045603A true JPS6045603A (en) | 1985-03-12 |
Family
ID=15566357
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP15361583A Pending JPS6045603A (en) | 1983-08-22 | 1983-08-22 | Japanese clothings |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS6045603A (en) |
-
1983
- 1983-08-22 JP JP15361583A patent/JPS6045603A/en active Pending
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