JPS6143463B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for embossing a crimped fabric. The crepe fabric as used in the present invention refers to a strongly twisted yarn fabric having grains such as dechinne crepe, dioset crepe, and willow crepe. Conventionally, highly twisted yarn fabrics are made by subjecting raw or false twisted yarns of 30d to 150d to actual twisting of 3000T/M to 1500T/M, and then heat-setting the twisted yarns to increase the turning force (hereinafter referred to as torque) of the twisted yarns. After weakening, the warp or weft or the warp and weft are used to weave a greige fabric, and then the greige fabric is unstrung and heat treated to capture the progress of crimp, and the crimp effect is created by applying impact by falling in a hot water tank. Textiles are made to appear grained through a so-called washer process. However, in recent years, the market has come to demand high-value-added products that use differentiated materials even in highly twisted yarn fabrics, and conventional material grains and processing methods alone cannot satisfy all of the user's demands. Nowadays, the use of super multi-threads is becoming more popular, and we are beginning to see a systematic trend in the market where the denier of single threads becomes extremely thin for textiles that place emphasis on texture. As a result, the torque and crimp properties of each brand are decreasing, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain fine grains that are fine and highly uniform. The present invention was made in view of the current situation, and
The object of the present invention is to obtain a method for creating grains that can produce fine, high, and highly uniform grains on a crimped fabric. In order to achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, when subjecting a woven fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used for the warp or weft or the warp and weft to the texturing treatment, the present invention first subjects the fabric to tension treatment in the direction of the highly twisted yarns, and then applies the texturing process to the fabric. This is a method for making a wrinkled fabric, which is characterized by carrying out a treatment. The present invention will be explained in detail below. The present invention is characterized in that the fabric is subjected to a tensioning treatment prior to the usual graining treatment. The term "tension treatment" as used in the present invention refers to temporarily stretching the fabric. The tension processing time may be long or short, and may be instantaneous. In the tensioning treatment, it is preferable to temporarily stretch the fabric by 3% or more. If it is less than 3%, the torque recovery force is weak and it is difficult to obtain fine, high, and highly uniform grains. In the present invention, the fabric is subjected to tension treatment prior to the usual graining treatment, and this technical idea was derived as follows. First, during weaving, the heat setting effect is used to prevent weaving defects such as creases and snarls to maintain an easy-to-weave condition, and after weaving, the yarn properties are returned to those before setting in the gray machine, i.e., a state with high torque force is created. As a result of various studies to develop a method that satisfies these conditions, we found that although highly twisted yarn shrinks and its torque performance decreases when it is set, if it is subjected to tension after being set, it loses its torque. We have discovered a major characteristic of highly twisted set yarns, which is that the torque force of the yarns is significantly recovered. As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have found that, although the torque differs depending on the tension treatment conditions, the latter exhibits approximately twice as much torque as the untensioned yarn and the tension treated yarn. Furthermore, in order to confirm this with an actual woven fabric, we measured the torque number of the unwound yarn after applying tension in the width direction using a Georgette greige. It was confirmed that the number is increasing. Furthermore, when we measured the shrinkage caused by hot water, we found that the yarn that was under tension tended to be larger, indicating that it could be sufficiently shrunk even in hot water. The present inventors have come to the following conclusion from the current situation. In other words, if the gray fabric is tensioned in the width direction or longitudinal direction before being put into the washer process to increase the torque force of the warp or weft yarns, and then textured in the normal current processing process, the shrinkage force against torque force and heat can be reduced. Because of its excellent grain width, the width reduction rate after washing increases, and it is possible to obtain desired grains over a relatively wide range in the finishing process. In addition, since it is a greige material and already has torque properties and shrinkability against heat, it is possible to fully relax the washer conditions.In addition, in fabrics using strong warp and weft yarns such as jersey, the warp and weft tension can be reduced. By making a difference in the ratio or by processing only one side of the warp or weft, it is possible to create a fabric with so-called unique grains that differ in grain shape even though the same yarn is used. If these points are taken into account, the cost increase due to the addition of one step can be fully covered, and it can be used for all types of textured fabrics, which is a remarkable effect. Next, examples of the present invention will be described, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Example 1 S twist on polyester filament yarn 75d/36f
80 2500T/M and Z-twisted 2500T/M yarns
The yarn was twisted in a steam set at ℃ x 40 min, and the warp and weft were arranged alternately in SZ to weave a Georgette gray fabric. After applying a 10% tension treatment in the width direction using a setter, the untreated cloth (for comparison) was subjected to normal graining in the washer process for 15 minutes of boiling, as shown in Table 1. As shown in Figure 2, the treated fabric has a larger width and grain shape that is finer and higher than that of the untreated fabric, and is highly uniform, which shows that the method of the present invention is very effective against grains, etc. I understand. 【table】

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. When subjecting a fabric woven using strongly twisted yarns to the warp or weft or the warp and weft to create a texture,
1. A method for making a wrinkled fabric, which comprises first subjecting the fabric to tension treatment in the direction of the strongly twisted yarns, and then subjecting the fabric to a texture treatment. 2. Temporarily reduce the fabric by 3% in the direction of strong twist of the fabric.
2. A method for creasing a wrinkled fabric according to claim 1, wherein the tensioning treatment is performed by stretching the fabric.