JPS616370A - Production of bulky polyester knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a method for producing a bulky polyester woven or knitted material.

(Prior Art) Polyesters, particularly polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester fibers mainly composed of these polyesters have various excellent features and are therefore widely used in woven and knitted fabrics. However, such polyester woven and knitted fabrics
Due to its simple structure and uniform C, its texture is not necessarily preferred compared to woven and knitted fabrics made of natural fibers. Efforts are being made to bring the texture closer to that of woven and knitted materials.

As one of these attempts, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-42415 describes a method for producing self-crimping polyester filaments by joining polyester polymers having different flow rates immediately after spinning. I'm here.

However, h method C described in JP-A No. 54-421115
Even if the flow velocity difference is increased to the limit that allows yarn formation, the difference in fiber molecule orientation due to the flow velocity difference is not large enough, and the orientation degree difference is small, resulting in differences in elongation, shrinkage rate, etc. Differences in physical properties are also insignificant, making it difficult to use in fabrics where bulkiness is emphasized.

In addition, yarns produced by a spinning method that minimizes such flow velocity differences have large variations in fineness and physical properties in the direction of the fiber axis, making it difficult to fabricate woven or knitted fabrics. However, there were also problems such as the appearance of spots.

(Objective of the Invention) The purpose of the present invention is to propose a method for producing a bulky polyester woven or knitted material that has bulkiness and texture that are extremely natural-like, which conventional polyester woven or knitted materials do not have. be.

(Structure of the Invention) The present invention provides bulkiness by supplying two or more types of polyester filament yarns having different shrinkage rates to a fluid turbulence region with an overfeed rate in the range of 0.5 to 20%. One of the polyester filament yarns of the bulky yarn has an irregular cross-sectional shape, the cross-sectional shape is substantially flat, and there are recesses on both sides of the long axis of the flat cross-section, and the recesses are located between the recesses. It has an asymmetrical shape with respect to the short axis, has a hollow portion on one of the asymmetric cross sections, and the hollow portion forming cross section and the other solid cross section are spun at different flow rates. The bulky processed yarn consisting of the eccentric hollow multi-like yarn, which changes the area of the entire cross section along the fiber axis direction and has latent self-crimpability, is woven and knitted to form the mgi product. This is a method for producing a bulky polyester woven or knitted material, which is characterized by carrying out an alkali treatment.

The bulky yarn used in the method of the invention has two different shrinkage rates.
The polyester filament yarn is composed of more than one type of polyester filament yarn, one of which is the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn described below, and the two or more types of polyester filament yarn are mixed with an overfeed rate in the range of 0.5 to 20%. There is also one that is supplied to the fluid turbulence area and subjected to bulk processing (Taslan addition). For treatment in a fluid turbulence area, known treatment II+
Equipment can be used.

Like men with different shrinkage rates are, for example, 4% or more as measured by Shimizu shrinkage rate,
Preferred examples include those of 40% or less. Furthermore, it is preferable that the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn has a smaller shrinkage rate than other polyester multifilament yarns. In particular, the shrinkage rate of the polyester filament yarn, which is the shrinkage rate, is 7.
% or more. Such polyester multifilament yarns are known ones (those with circular cross section,
(with other irregular cross-sections) can be effectively used.

Next, in the fluid turbulence treatment, an overfeed rate in the range of 0.5 to 20% is effectively used, and preferably, the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn has a larger overfeed rate. It is preferable that the overfeed rate of the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn is 6 to 20%, and the overfeed rate of the other polyester multifilament yarn is 0.5 to 6.
Optimal is less than %.

Next, the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn will be described below.

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross-section of a polyester filament with an irregular cross-section used in the present invention, FIG. 2 (A) is a side view of the yarn with an irregular cross-section shown in FIG. 1, and FIG. , second
FIG. 3 is a side view when the vehicle is turned to the right by 90 degrees from the state shown in FIG.

As shown in FIG. 1, its cross-sectional shape is flat, and has recesses x and x' on both sides of the long axis n. The best example of the recesses x, x' is a pair of recesses x, x' facing each other with the long axis n in between.

Next, the cross-sectional shape is asymmetrical with respect to the short axis C obtained by connecting the recesses x and x', and a hollow part e is present in either one of the asymmetric cross-sections. It is.

From the viewpoint of yarn-spinning properties, it is preferable that the hollow portion e exists in the cross section on the side where the length between two points where a straight line parallel to the short axis C intersects with the outline of the cross-sectional shape is maximum.

A filament having such a cross-sectional shape is, for example, a third filament.
It can be obtained by spinning at a take-up speed of 2500711/min or more using a spinneret having a discharge hole in which a hollow hole 1 and a solid hole 2 are connected by a slit 3 as shown in the figure.

FIG. 3 is a plan view showing an example of the shape of the opening of the spinneret for spinning the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn used in the present invention.

When using such a spinneret, a flow velocity difference is provided so that the flow velocity of the polymer stream discharged from the solid hole 2 is faster than that of the hollow hole 1, and the flow velocity difference can be easily increased. It is.

In this way, since the flow rate of the polymer flow passing through the hollow hole 1 is slower than the polymer flow passing through the solid hole 2, the spinning tension (draft) during spinning, especially under a high draft of 500 or more, the hollow hole It is mainly concentrated in the polymer stream discharged from 1. As a result, the hollow portion formed by the polymer flow discharged from the hollow hole 1 is subjected to a greater shear force than when the hollow hole 1 is a solid hole, and has an extremely higher degree of orientation than when the hollow hole 1 is solid. It becomes.

And ficimen 1 to 1FJi having the above-mentioned cross-sectional shape
The degree of orientation of the 9th part of the surface is higher than the degree of orientation of the h part, and the filament has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction of the filament as shown in FIG.

As shown in Fig. 2, the thickness unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the filament forming the Marziiramen used in the present invention is such that the cross-sectional area of the h portion is the 9-portion cross-sectional area in the longitudinal direction. They are joined together while changing more widely than before.

Preferred embodiments of the cross-sectional shape of the filament used in the present invention include those exhibiting an approximately eyebrow shape as shown in FIG. 1 (A), or approximately isosceles triangular as shown in FIG. 1 (○). is preferred. In particular, a filament having a substantially isosceles diagonal cross-sectional shape is preferred since it can provide a unique luster.

The hollowness ratio of the 9 parts in such a flat hollow filament is 2-30%, particularly preferably 10-15%, and the cross-sectional area S9 including the hollow part e of the 9 parts and the cross-sectional area of the h part 3t) The ratio (S(+/Sh) is 1.2 to 3
, particularly preferably 1.5 to 2.

However, the hollowness ratio and cross-sectional areas S9 and sh were determined from a microscopic photograph of the cross-section of the filament.

Here, if the spinning take-off speed is less than 2,500 m/min, although thickness unevenness exists in the longitudinal direction of the obtained filament, the difference in orientation in the cross-sectional direction of the filament will be insufficient.

When the spinning speed is about 2,500-4,000 m/min, the mechanical properties of the multifilament can be brought to practical use by further stretching and heat-letting at a temperature of 100°C or higher. can be increased to Even in this case, the multifilament of the present invention still has a large shrinkage difference in the cross-sectional direction and the longitudinal direction, so that sufficient bulkiness can be achieved by heat treatment.

In addition, the spinning take-off speed is 4000 m/min or more, especially 45 m/min.
00 to 6000 m 2 /min, the resulting multifilament can be put to practical use as it is, and it goes without saying that such a multifilament can be made sufficiently bulky by heat treatment.

Therefore, in the fluid turbulence treatment, the polyester filament yarn with the irregular cross section is used after being drawn and heated, it is used after being subjected to only heat treatment, and the undrawn yarn is used as it is as a raw yarn for bulking treatment. One way to use it is to make it into a knitted fabric and then heat treat it to make it bulky.

Next, in the method of the present invention, after weaving and knitting using the bulky yarn, the greige of the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to heat treatment such as scouring and relaxing treatment to sufficiently develop bulkiness, as is the case with known methods. However, it is important to perform alkali treatment. In this case, the alkali weight loss rate is ~30%, preferably 10~
20% is appropriate.

(Effect of the Invention) The woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric that is rich in bulk, has excellent repellency and drapability, and has a natural texture.

The bulky yarn itself used in the method of the present invention has high bulkiness, but in particular, when the overfeed rate of the eccentric hollow filament yarn is set to 1, the eccentric hollow filament yarn is Since the eccentric hollow filament yarn has self-crimpability, the bulkiness is further improved. In addition, the eccentric hollow filament yarn has self-crimp r1 in this way, but as a result of spinning the hollow section forming section and the solid section at different flow rates, the two sections It is believed that this occurs because the degree of molecular orientation is different in each part, which causes different shrinkage rates. Since they have different finenesses and different shrinkage rates, they contribute to increasing the bulkiness of woven or knitted fabrics obtained using them, and can also have a texture similar to natural fibers.

In particular, when the other fibers constituting the bulky yarn have a large shrinkage rate, the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn is arranged in the outer layer of the woven or knitted fabric, and the large shrinkage rate causes the structure of the woven or knitted fabric to be It can be made to have a rich sense of line, and the ground line can improve the drape properties of the woven or knitted fabric.

In addition, in the method of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is treated with an alkali, but since the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn has different degrees of orientation of fiber molecules in its cross-sectional direction and in the fiber axis direction, the addition of water by the alkali treatment is The degree of cracking due to decomposition differs in the cross-sectional direction and the fiber axis direction, making it possible to create delicate gaps in the woven or knitted fabric, giving the woven or knitted fabric a natural-like feel.

(Example) As an eccentric hollow multifilament yarn, the intrinsic viscosity [η]
After melting polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.3% by weight of TiO2 as a matting agent) with a temperature of 0.64, the temperature was further raised to 300°C, and a 37.59%
It was discharged at a discharge rate of /min. In such a discharge hole, the hollow hole 1. The discharge amount ratio and discharge speed ratio of PET discharged from the hollow hole 2 were 1/1.7 and 1/3.3, respectively. Then, the polymer flow discharged from the solid hole collides with one side of the IC polymer flow discharged from the hollow hole directly below the spinneret.
Join while bouncing. Next, cooling air at a temperature of 26°C and a humidity of 60% RH is blown onto the joined PET stream at a linear velocity of 30α/sec, and after cooling and solidifying, an oiling roller
After applying oil agent, take-up speed is 3000m/min.
Then, it was stretched by a conventional method at a magnification of 1,318, and at a stretching speed of 800 m/sin and 50 de/30
f i l 5(7) yarn was used. The fresh water shrinkage rate of this yarn was 8.4%.

Other poly 1 stell filament yarns include ordinary commercially available 30de/12fi Is (fresh water shrinkage rate 14.0%).
) was used.

The former was simultaneously supplied to a fluid turbulence area set at a pneumatic pressure of 4 Ky/cd with an overfeed of 6% and the latter 3%, and the resulting composite yarn (S I!i, 300T/m
A plain weave was woven at a density of 28 light fibers/α and 26 weft fibers/cts using the woven fabric (alkali weight loss rate (9.4%)
Fuji Silk-like VIJIlf (
It had a pleasant feel and texture.

(Comparative Examples 1 to 3) On the other hand, in the above example, when the overfeed amount of the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn was set to 25% (Comparative Example 1
), when the overfeed amount of the eccentric hollow multifilament yarn was set to 3%, the same as the other polyester filament yarns (Comparative Example 2), and when the overfeed amount of the other polyester filament yarn was set to 0.1% (Comparative example 3
) The texture of the final fabric obtained was as follows.

Comparative Example 1: The loops due to the eccentric hollow multifilaments were large, the woven fabric had a strong rough and stiff feel, and the drapability was significantly inferior to that of the present invention.

Comparative Example 2: Since the composite yarn did not have a core-sheath structure, it did not have a spun-like feel and had insufficient repellency.

Comparative Example 3: The eccentric hollow multifilament yarn was poorly mixed with other polyester filament yarns, the quality of the fabric was significantly impaired, and spun touch and repulsion were poor.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross-section of a polyester filament with a modified cross-section used in the present invention, FIG. 2 is a side view of the polyester filament with a modified cross-section shown in FIG. 1, and FIG. FIG. 2 is a plan view showing the shape of a discharge hole of a spinneret for spinning cross-sectional polyester filaments.゛C...short axis e...hollow part n...long axis x, x'...four parts I T:A (No.) 2 Figure

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Bulky yarn made by supplying two or more types of polyester filament yarns with different shrinkage rates to a fluid turbulence area at an overfeed rate in the range of 0.5 to 20% to make them bulky. One type has an irregular cross-sectional shape, the cross-sectional shape is almost flat, has recesses on both sides sandwiching the long axis of the flat cross-section, and has an asymmetric shape with respect to the short axis between the recesses. The asymmetrical cross-section has a hollow portion on either side, and the hollow-forming cross-section portion and the solid cross-section portion are spun at different flow rates, so that the cross-section along the direction of the fiber axis is A bulky polyester woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that the bulky textured yarn, which is made of eccentric hollow multifilament yarn whose total area changes and has latent self-crimpability, is woven and knitted, and the woven or knitted fabric is treated with alkali. Production method.