JPS6332893B2 - - Google Patents
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- JPS6332893B2 JPS6332893B2 JP13729078A JP13729078A JPS6332893B2 JP S6332893 B2 JPS6332893 B2 JP S6332893B2 JP 13729078 A JP13729078 A JP 13729078A JP 13729078 A JP13729078 A JP 13729078A JP S6332893 B2 JPS6332893 B2 JP S6332893B2
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Description
本発明は、実撚糸様の風合や淡い絣を呈する布
帛を形成し得る特殊な仮撚加工糸に関する。
更に詳しくは、糸軸方向にS撚糸部分とZ撚糸
部分とが交互に存在し、いずれか一方の撚方向の
糸部分は堅密な撚糸構造であつて、他方の撚方向
の糸部分は嵩高な撚糸構造である、特殊な仮撚加
工糸に関するものである。
本発明は、仮撚加工の加撚領域にある糸の撚糸
構造を仮撚加工後の糸に残留せしめた所謂未解撚
部分に堅密な撚糸構造を求め、仮撚加工の加撚領
域にある糸の撚密度を越えて解撚せしめた所謂過
解撚部分に嵩高な撚糸構造を求めるものであり、
形成された該未解撚部分と該過解撚部分とにより
成る交互撚糸状態の糸に実撚糸様の効果を求め、
該未解撚部分と該過解撚部分との形態差に絣の効
果を求めんとするものである。
仮撚加工によつて未解撚部分と過解撚部分とを
交互に形成させる技術は、従来においても数多く
知られている。
例えば、特公昭50−25065号公報、特公昭51−
225号公報、特公昭51−42662号公報等に、ポリエ
ステル系の延伸繊維やポリアミド系の延伸繊維
を、スピンドル方式の仮撚装置を用いて、繊維相
互が部分的に融着を起こすという極めて高い加熱
温度のもとで仮撚加工を実施している例が記載さ
れている。
しかし、上記従来の技術では、本発明の目的と
するところの実撚糸様の風合や淡い絣を呈する布
帛を形成し得るものを得ることは到底できなかつ
たものである。その原因は次の如くと考えられ
る。
第1に、実撚糸様の風合を得ようとするには、
未解撚部分および過解撚部分の両者の撚密度を高
くすることが重要であり、それは、とりもなおさ
ず未解撚部分の撚密度を高くかつ糸に占める長さ
割合を多く形成することである。ところが仮撚加
工において加撚領域の糸の撚密度を高めると未解
撚部分の発生が減少するという好ましくない特性
をもつているのである。
一方、加熱温度を高めて、繊維相互の融着を多
くすると未解撚部分の発生が増加し、この点に関
しては好ましいことではあるが、繊維相互の融着
を多くすると、一方では実撚糸の本来の効果であ
る柔軟でドレープ性に富み、あるいはシボの発現
能が高いといつた効果を阻害することになる。つ
まり融点は糸をモノフイラメント糸に近づけ、糸
を剛直にするからである。
第2に、淡い絣を得ようとするには、未解撚部
分と過解撚部分との糸構造差に依る以外はなく、
両者はむろん同一の繊維、繊度、繊維数で構成さ
れているわけであるから、かなり明瞭な形態差が
必要である。それには、未解撚部分の堅密性を高
く、一方過解撚部分の嵩高性を高くすることが重
要である。未解撚部分の堅密性は仮撚加工の加撚
領域の糸の撚糸構造が保たれていれば良く、つま
り繊維の捲縮が露顕していなければ良く、撚密度
の影響は少ないのであるが、過解撚部分の嵩高性
は、繊維の捲縮が高いほど良く、より高い仮撚加
撚を受けていることが必要である。しかるに、未
解撚部分と過解撚部分とは同一の仮撚加撚を受け
るわけであり、過解撚部分の嵩高性を高めるため
に未解撚部分にも高い仮撚加撚を与えることにな
り、この場合、前記と同様一方では未解撚部分の
発生を減少させることになる。
一方、繊維相互の融着を多くすると、未解撚部
分の堅密性は保たれるが、過解撚部分の嵩高性を
阻害して好ましくない。それは過解撚部分の捲縮
の露顕を阻害するからである。
第3に、更に絣に関しては、その模様が重要で
あり、未解撚部分の長さ、数、量に密接に関係し
てくる。繊維相互の融着が多くない場合には、未
解撚部分の長さ、数、量とも絣を呈するには不十
分である。
第4に、目的を達成するためには、糸に高い抗
張力性が必要である。糸に形成された未解撚部分
と過解撚部分とが、糸から布帛になるまでの間の
張力を受ける工程において、撚の相殺を伴なつて
破壊されては全く無意味であるからである。繊維
相互の融着が多くない場合、抗張力性が一般に不
十分である。
上記の如く、前記3つの公報に記載されてなる
方法で実撚糸の風合、絣の明瞭さ、絣の模様、糸
の抗張力性の面で本発明の目的を達成できないの
は、まずひとつは技術範囲が延伸糸をスピンドル
方式の仮撚装置で仮撚加工する方法に限定されて
いたからである。
つまりスピンドル方式の仮撚は、細いペグに捲
回して行なうため、ペグを通過する糸に大きな歪
を与え、未解撚部分の発生を阻害し、また発生し
た未解撚部分の抗張力性を低いものとする。
更に、延伸糸の仮撚加工においては、繊維相互
の融着を発生する加熱温度領域と融着を発生しな
い加熱温度領域とが明確に区分でき、未解撚部分
の抗張力性を高め、過解撚部分の嵩高性をあまり
阻害しない程度の適量の融着や、融着は起こるが
過解撚部分においては解撚の歪で融着が剥離して
しまう程度の軽度の融着といつた、中間的融着を
起こす温度領域が極めて狭く、その温度領域を使
用することが困難であるからである。
また、特開昭51−143746号公報、特開昭51−
143749号公報、特公昭53−15188号公報、特公昭
53−30818号公報、特開昭51−19847号公報、特開
昭53−98444号公報等に延伸繊維を流体旋回流応
用の仮撚装置を用い、高い過超供給のもとで仮撚
加工を実施している例が記載されている。
しかし、上記従来の技術においても、本発明の
目的とするところのものを得ることはできなかつ
た。特に絣の模様において、不十分であり、未解
撚部分の長さが短かすぎるのである。
流体旋回流応用の仮撚加工方式で、未解撚部分
を長くできない理由は、糸条が仮撚を受ける際、
流体旋回流に乗つて糸条が公転(バルーニング)
作用を受ける。この公転作用は解撚領域の糸にも
バルーニングを誘発する。流体旋回流によつて強
制的に起こる糸条の公転と、糸とその張力によつ
て決まる解撚領域の糸の固有振動数とは一致せ
ず、糸は断続的な力を受け、未解撚部分は寸断さ
れるものと考えられる。過超供給量が多く、糸の
張力が低いとこの現象が一層助長され、また過超
供給量が少なく、糸の張力が高いと、高い撚密度
の仮撚を到底付与できない。
また、一方長い未解撚部分を形成する技術とし
て、仮撚加工されつつある糸条に積極的な非定常
作用を施す技術がある。例えば、糸条と加熱装置
との接触状態を変動させる技術として特開昭49−
66928号公報、特開昭51−15017号公報、特開昭52
−8119号公報、仮撚装置から加熱装置方向へ伝播
する撚を変動させる技術として特公昭51−34016
号公報、特開昭49−554号公報、特開昭50−
121546号公報、仮撚装置により発生する糸条の撚
数を変動させる技術として特公昭49−8414号公
報、特開昭49−108353号公報、特開昭53−61745
号公報、仮撚装置を通過する糸条の速度を変動さ
せる技術として特開昭49−92337号公報、特開昭
49−92354号公報、仮撚加工される糸条を長さ方
向に不均一にする技術として特開昭52−66722号
公報、特開昭53−81749号公報、特開昭49−
101654号公報等が知られている。
上記の非定常仮撚の共通した特徴は、糸軸に沿
つた撚数変化がなだらかである、染着性斑、太さ
斑等が形成される等である。撚数変化がなだらか
であると絣の模様が不明瞭になり、染着性斑や太
さ斑は、視覚に対する印象が強いため、糸の撚糸
構造によつて表現しようとする淡い絣の効果を阻
害する。更に特開昭49−133647号公報の技術も提
案されているが、かかる技術は仮撚加工糸を実撚
で追撚するものであるので、堅密撚糸部分は形成
されず、また反対方向の撚を有する嵩高撚糸部分
も形成されない。またかかる技術は実撚による追
撚を付与しているので生産能率が劣るという欠点
もある。
前記した如き本発明の目的と上記の如き従来の
技術との間には、大きな隔たりがあるため、本発
明を完成させる過程において、これら従来の技術
を参考にしながらも、供給原糸、仮撚装置、加工
条件、及び得られる糸とその糸を用いた布帛につ
いて、本発明者らは種々一から鋭意研究したもの
である。
その結果、本発明の目的を達成するためには、
前記従来の技術によつて得られる糸に比べて、糸
軸方向に染着性斑を有さず、繊維相互の融着を極
力少なくした上で、未解撚部分の撚密度をより高
く、糸に占める長さ割合をより多く、かつ個々の
長さをより長くし、更に糸の抗張力性をより高く
すること等を達成する必要があるとの結論に達し
たものである。
そして、上記の本発明の目的を達成するための
糸製造技術上の目的に関し、前記従来の技術より
も、下記する技術手段の方が優れていることを見
い出した。
第1に、糸軸方向に染着性斑を形成しないこと
が最も重要であり、これは、仮撚加工を定常状態
で行なうことである。
第2に、繊維相互の融着を極力少なくすること
であり、仮撚加工条件を選定する他に、中間的融
着を起こす温度範囲の広い未延伸繊維を供給原糸
とし、該未延伸繊維の分子配向度合を必要に応じ
て選定することである。
第3に、仮撚装置として、糸に与える撚以外の
歪を小さくでき、かつ糸にバルーニングを与えな
いことのできる摩擦仮撚装置を用いることであ
る。
本発明は、上記技術手段に関して、更に鋭意研
究を重ねた結果、目的を達成することに成功し、
ここにその技術を提供するに至つた。
本発明の骨子は次の如きである。
即ち本発明は、仮撚捲縮を有する長繊維から成
る多繊条糸であつて、該糸は、糸軸方向に沿つ
て、撚密度が21000/(撚数/m)以上であり、
かつ繊維の捲縮形態が糸の撚構造と一致している
堅密撚糸部分と、該堅密撚糸部分とは反対方向の
撚を有しかつ繊維の捲縮形態が露顕している嵩高
撚糸部分とが、不規則な長さで交互に存在し、か
つ前記堅密撚糸部分の糸全体に占める長さ割合が
10%以上であり、更に前記堅密撚糸部分の各各の
長さ(単位:mm)の自乗和が糸1m当り3000以上
であることを特徴とする実撚調仮撚加工糸(ただ
し、Dは糸のデニール数である)である。本発明
において好ましくは、該糸の抗張力性が0.3g/
D以上であることを特徴とし、更に、該糸は、糸
軸方向に染着性の斑を実質的に有さないことを特
徴とし、更に、該糸を構成する繊維相互が融着し
ていないか、又は融着していても該繊維を切断せ
ずに剥離できる程度の融着であることを特徴とす
る、特殊仮撚加工糸である。
上記における「堅密撚糸部分」とは、撚密度が
21000/√(撚数/m)
以上でありかつ繊維の捲縮形態が糸の撚構造と一
致している状態の糸部分である。すなわち捲縮の
ないマルチフイラメント糸を加撚し、熱固定した
如き状態の糸部分である。
上記における「嵩高撚糸部分」とは、撚を有し
かつ繊維の捲縮形態が露顕している状態の糸部分
である。すなわち、無撚で捲縮のあるマルチフイ
ラメント糸を加撚した如き状態の糸部分である。
上記における「堅密撚糸部分と嵩高撚糸部分と
を交互に有する糸」とは、該糸が前記堅密撚糸部
分又は前記嵩高撚糸部分のいずれにも該当しない
糸部分を実質的に有さない状態の糸である。但
し、厳密には、該堅密撚糸部分と該嵩高撚糸部分
との境界に、該両糸部分のいずれにも属さない無
撚糸部分が存在するが、該無撚糸部分は意味のあ
る長さを持たず、実際には、1mmを越えるものは
ない。
上記における「D」とは、該糸のデニール数で
ある。
上記における「0.3g/D以上の抗張力性」と
は、1m間隔に配置された一対の糸送ローラ間を
0.3g/Dの張力、200m/minの糸速で該糸を緊
張走行処理した際、前記堅密撚糸部分が少しでも
残留することであり、好ましくは、該糸に対する
長さ割合で10%以上残留することである。
本発明を更に詳しく説明する。
本発明の究極の目的は、前記した如く、実撚糸
様の風合や淡い絣を呈する布帛を得ることにあ
り、本発明の直接の目的は、該布帛の原糸を得る
ことにある。
未解撚部分の撚密度は、実撚糸様の風合効果に
対して、高いほど好ましく、どこまで未解撚部分
の撚密度を高められるかは、実施態様によつてそ
の上限が決められる。
未解撚部分の堅密性は、仮撚加工の加撚領域の
糸の撚糸構造をそのまま残留せしめて完壁であ
る。しかし、スピンドル方式の仮撚加工では、強
い融着を起こしていないとき、未解撚部分の撚密
度は仮撚加工の加撚領域の糸の撚密度よりもかな
り低く、この差は解撚されたものであり、解撚の
作用が未解撚部分の構造を一部破壊し、撚線に割
れ目を作り堅密性を阻害する。この傾向は、仮撚
加工の加撚領域の糸の撚密度が高いときほど強
く、
21000/√(撚数/m)
以上になると顕著に現われる。
一方、過解撚部分の嵩高性は、仮撚加工の加撚
領域の糸の撚密度が高いときほど高く、
21000/√(撚数/m)
以上になると嵩高性に寄与する繊維の捲縮が得ら
れるようになる。
上記両者の撚密度が一致しているのも興味深い
現象である。
本発明の糸を得る方法によれば、仮撚加工の加
撚領域の糸の撚密度を、ほとんどそのまま未解撚
部分に残留させることができ、高い撚密度の仮撚
加工によつて、高い撚密度の未解撚部分を形成し
た糸を得ることができ、その糸を用いた布帛を手
にすることができた。布帛の絣の模様が明瞭にな
るのは、仮撚加工の加撚領域の撚密度を
21000/√(撚数/m)
以上にすることが必要である。
仮撚加工糸の長さ方向に未解撚部分が部分的に
存在する本発明糸において、該未解撚部分の存在
が効果を十分に発揮するに足る量でなければなら
ない。
先ず、実撚糸様の風合に関しては、未解撚部分
の量が多くなると、過解撚部分の撚密度も高くな
り、撚の効果が高まる方向である。一方、仮撚加
工糸に撚を加え、撚密度と風合の関係を調べると
撚密度が
2300/√乃至2400/√(撚数/m)
の範囲を越えると、撚の効果を感じるようにな
る。また未解撚部分を含む仮撚加工糸を各種試作
し、さらに撚を加えて過解撚部分の撚密度を
2300/√乃至2400/√(撚数/m)
に揃えて、未解撚部分の量と効果を比較したとこ
ろ、未解撚部分の量が10%を越えると、その存在
を触覚にて感ずることができる。撚密度が
21000/√(撚数/m)
以上の未解撚部分が10%以上存在すれば、過解撚
部分の撚密度は、
2300/√乃至2400/√(撚数/m)
の範囲を超えるのである。
次に絣の模様と未解撚部分の量との関係である
が、これは未解撚部分の長さと密接な関係を持
ち、かつ人の好みにも関係してくることである
が、概して言えることは、未解撚部分の量が少な
いと、布帛において細い筋が散在する程度である
が、未解撚部分の量が10%を越えると未解撚部分
同志が隣り合う確率が増し、筋に幅がつき、模様
がより明瞭に表われるようになる。
絣の模様には、厳密には未解撚部分の長さと量
が同時に関係する。例えば、未解撚部分の長さ
が、5mm程度の場合、量を増しても斑紋を呈する
ばかりで、絣を呈さない。未解撚部分の長さが10
mm程度になると斑紋模様からいくぶん長さを帯び
て、その量が30%以上と極めて多量になると絣を
呈するようになる。また、未解撚部分の長さが40
mm程度になると糸1m当り2ケ程度(量として8
%程度)の存在でも絣を呈する。各種実験を総合
すると、未解撚部分の長さ(mm)の自乗和が糸1
m当り3000を越えると絣を呈すると認められるよ
うになる。
かかる未解撚部分(堅密撚糸部分)の長さ
(mm)の、糸1m当りの自乗和の値と、良好な絣
模様を呈し得る効果の関係について検討、試験し
た結果を第1表を用いて説明する。
この第1表に示した試験結果は、後述実施例に
記載したものと同様の未延伸マルチフイラメント
糸と装置を用いて、仮撚加撚の撚密度、加熱温
度、延伸倍率等を種々変更して、堅密撚糸構造部
分の糸全体に対する長さ割合や平均長さの異なる
種々の加工糸(9種類)を作り、その加工糸を織
物の緯糸に用いて該糸による絣模様の現出効果を
官能評価した結果である。なお、経糸にはポリエ
ステルマルチフイラメント糸(50デニール、36フ
イラメント)を用い、経糸密度は110本/インチ、
緯糸密度は85本/インチとしたものである。
同表中、評価の欄の、〇印は「絣模様の現出効
果が良好であるもの」、×印は「絣模様の現出が良
好になされていないもの」を示している。
The present invention relates to a special false-twisted yarn that can form a fabric that exhibits a texture similar to real twisted yarn and a light Kasuri pattern. More specifically, S-twisted yarn portions and Z-twisted yarn portions alternate in the yarn axis direction, and the yarn portion in one of the twisting directions has a tightly twisted yarn structure, and the yarn portion in the other twisting direction has a bulky yarn structure. The invention relates to a special false-twisted yarn with a twisted yarn structure. The present invention seeks to create a tight yarn structure in the so-called untwisted portion, where the twisted yarn structure of the yarn in the twisted area of the false twisting process remains in the yarn after the false twisting process, and in the twisted area of the false twisting process. This requires a bulky twisted yarn structure in the so-called over-untwisted portion, which is the untwisting of the yarn beyond a certain twist density.
Obtaining a real twist-like effect on the yarn in an alternately twisted state formed by the untwisted portion and the overtwisted portion,
The purpose is to find the effect of Kasuri on the difference in form between the untwisted part and the over-twisted part. Many techniques are known in the art for alternately forming untwisted portions and over-untwisted portions by false twisting. For example, Special Publication No. 50-25065, Special Publication No. 51-
No. 225, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-42662, etc., using a spindle-type false twisting device to draw polyester-based drawn fibers or polyamide-based drawn fibers, there is an extremely high possibility that the fibers will partially fuse to each other. An example is described in which false twisting is performed at a heating temperature. However, with the above-mentioned conventional techniques, it has been impossible to obtain a fabric capable of forming a fabric that exhibits the texture of real twisted yarn and a light Kasuri pattern, which is the objective of the present invention. The reason for this is thought to be as follows. First, in order to obtain the texture of real twisted yarn,
It is important to increase the twist density of both the untwisted part and the over-untwisted part, which means that the untwisted part has a high twist density and a large proportion of the length of the yarn. It is. However, in the false twisting process, increasing the twist density of the yarn in the twisted region has the undesirable characteristic of reducing the occurrence of untwisted portions. On the other hand, increasing the heating temperature and increasing the fusion between fibers will increase the occurrence of untwisted parts, and although this is a positive thing, increasing the fusion between the fibers will also increase the number of untwisted yarns. This will inhibit the original effects of being soft, drapey, or having a high ability to develop grain. In other words, the melting point makes the yarn more similar to a monofilament yarn and makes the yarn more rigid. Secondly, the only way to obtain a pale Kasumi is to rely on the difference in yarn structure between the untwisted part and the over-twisted part.
Of course, since both are composed of the same fibers, fineness, and number of fibers, there must be a fairly clear difference in form. For this purpose, it is important to increase the tightness of the untwisted portion and to increase the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion. The tightness of the untwisted portion only needs to maintain the twisted structure of the yarn in the twisted region of the false twisting process, that is, as long as the crimp of the fibers is not exposed, and the twist density has little effect. However, the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion is better as the crimp of the fibers is higher, and it is necessary that the fiber has been subjected to a higher degree of false twisting. However, the untwisted portion and the over-untwisted portion undergo the same false twisting, and in order to increase the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion, it is necessary to give a high degree of false twisting to the ununtwisted portion as well. In this case, as described above, on the one hand, the occurrence of untwisted portions is reduced. On the other hand, increasing the number of fibers fused together maintains the tightness of the untwisted portions, but this is not preferable because it impairs the bulkiness of the overly twisted portions. This is because it prevents the crimp from being exposed in the over-twisted portion. Thirdly, when it comes to Kasuri, its pattern is important and is closely related to the length, number, and amount of untwisted parts. If there is not much fusion between the fibers, the length, number, and amount of the untwisted portions are insufficient to create a Kasuri pattern. Fourth, to achieve this goal, the yarn needs high tensile strength. This is because it would be completely meaningless if the untwisted portions and over-untwisted portions formed in the yarn were to be destroyed as the twists were offset in the process of receiving tension during the process from yarn to fabric. be. If there is not much fusion between the fibers, the tensile strength is generally insufficient. As mentioned above, one of the reasons why the methods described in the three publications mentioned above cannot achieve the object of the present invention in terms of the texture of the actual twisted yarn, the clarity of the kasuri pattern, the pattern of the kasuri pattern, and the tensile strength of the yarn is that This is because the technical scope was limited to a method of false-twisting drawn yarn using a spindle-type false-twisting device. In other words, spindle-type false twisting is performed by winding the yarn around thin pegs, which creates a large strain on the yarn passing through the pegs, inhibiting the generation of untwisted parts, and lowering the tensile strength of the untwisted parts that occur. shall be taken as a thing. Furthermore, in the false twisting process of drawn yarn, it is possible to clearly distinguish between the heating temperature range where fibers fuse together and the heating temperature range where no melting occurs. There was an appropriate amount of fusion that did not significantly impede the bulkiness of the twisted part, and there was fusion that occurred, but in the over-untwisted part, the fusion was so mild that it peeled off due to the strain of untwisting. This is because the temperature range in which intermediate fusion occurs is extremely narrow, and it is difficult to use that temperature range. Also, JP-A-51-143746, JP-A-51-143746,
Publication No. 143749, Publication No. 53-15188, Publication No. 15188, Publication No. 15188, Special Publication No.
53-30818, JP-A-51-19847, JP-A-53-98444, etc., the drawn fibers are false-twisted using a false-twisting device that applies fluid swirling flow under high excess supply. Examples of implementation are described. However, even with the above-mentioned conventional techniques, the object of the present invention could not be obtained. Especially in the Kasuri pattern, the length of the untwisted part is too short. The reason why the untwisted part cannot be made longer in the false twisting method using fluid swirl flow is that when the yarn undergoes false twisting,
The thread revolves on the fluid swirl flow (ballooning)
be affected. This revolution action also induces ballooning of the yarn in the untwisted region. The rotation of the yarn forced by the fluid swirl flow does not match the natural frequency of the yarn in the untwisting region, which is determined by the yarn and its tension, and the yarn is subjected to intermittent forces and untwisted. It is considered that the twisted portion is torn. This phenomenon is further aggravated when the excess supply amount is large and the yarn tension is low, and when the excess supply amount is small and the yarn tension is high, false twisting with a high twist density cannot be imparted at all. On the other hand, as a technique for forming a long untwisted portion, there is a technique of applying an active unsteady action to the yarn that is being subjected to the false twisting process. For example, as a technique for changing the contact state between the yarn and the heating device,
Publication No. 66928, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 15017-1977, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 1977-15017
-8119 Publication, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-34016 as a technology for varying the twist propagating from the false twisting device toward the heating device
No. 49-554, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 1973-
Japanese Patent Publication No. 121546, Japanese Patent Publication No. 1984-8414, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 108353-1973, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 1983-61745 as a technique for varying the number of twists of yarn generated by a false twisting device.
JP-A-49-92337, JP-A-Sho 49-92337 as a technique for varying the speed of yarn passing through a false twisting device.
No. 49-92354, JP-A-52-66722, JP-A-53-81749, and JP-A-Sho. 49 as a technique for making yarns subjected to false twisting uneven in the length direction.
Publication No. 101654 is known. The common characteristics of the above-mentioned unsteady false twisting are that the number of twists changes gently along the yarn axis, and that staining irregularities, thickness irregularities, etc. are formed. If the number of twists changes gradually, the pattern of the Kasuri becomes unclear, and irregularities in dyeability and thickness have a strong visual impact, so it is difficult to create a light Kasuri effect that is intended to be expressed by the twisted structure of the yarn. inhibit. Furthermore, the technique of JP-A-49-133647 has also been proposed, but since this technique involves additionally twisting the false-twisted yarn with the actual twist, a tightly twisted yarn portion is not formed, and the twisted yarn portion in the opposite direction is A bulky twisted yarn portion with twist is also not formed. Furthermore, this technique has the disadvantage that production efficiency is poor because additional twisting is applied to the actual twisting. Since there is a large gap between the purpose of the present invention as described above and the conventional techniques as described above, in the process of completing the present invention, while referring to these conventional techniques, The present inventors have conducted extensive research on the equipment, processing conditions, the resulting yarn, and the fabrics using the yarn. As a result, in order to achieve the objectives of the present invention,
Compared to the yarn obtained by the above-mentioned conventional technique, the yarn does not have staining unevenness in the yarn axis direction, has minimal fusion between fibers, and has a higher twist density in the untwisted portion. We have reached the conclusion that it is necessary to increase the proportion of length in the yarn, increase the length of each individual yarn, and further increase the tensile strength of the yarn. The inventors have also found that the technical means described below is superior to the conventional techniques with respect to the yarn manufacturing technology for achieving the above-mentioned objects of the present invention. First, it is most important not to form staining spots in the yarn axis direction, and this means performing the false twisting process in a steady state. Second, to minimize the fusion between fibers, in addition to selecting the false twisting processing conditions, undrawn fibers that have a wide temperature range that causes intermediate fusion are used as raw yarn, and the undrawn fibers are The degree of molecular orientation is selected as necessary. Thirdly, as the false twisting device, a friction false twisting device is used which can reduce strain other than twisting applied to the yarn and can prevent ballooning from occurring to the yarn. The present invention has succeeded in achieving the object as a result of further intensive research regarding the above technical means,
We have now provided this technology. The gist of the present invention is as follows. That is, the present invention provides a multifilament yarn consisting of long fibers having false twist crimp, the yarn having a twist density of 21000/(number of twists/m) or more along the yarn axis direction,
and a tightly twisted yarn portion in which the crimped form of the fibers matches the twisted structure of the yarn, and a bulky twisted yarn portion having a twist in the opposite direction to the tightly twisted yarn portion and in which the crimped form of the fibers is exposed. are present alternately at irregular lengths, and the length ratio of the tightly twisted yarn portion to the entire yarn is
10% or more, and furthermore, the sum of squares of each length (unit: mm) of the tightly twisted yarn portion is 3000 or more per meter of yarn (however, D is the denier number of the yarn). In the present invention, preferably the tensile strength of the yarn is 0.3 g/
D or above, and furthermore, the yarn is characterized by having substantially no stainable spots in the yarn axis direction, and furthermore, the fibers constituting the yarn are fused to each other. This is a special false-twisted processed yarn characterized in that either there is no fiber, or even if the fiber is fused, the fusion is such that it can be peeled off without cutting the fibers. The "tightly twisted yarn portion" mentioned above is a yarn portion in which the twist density is 21000/√ (number of twists/m) or more and the crimp form of the fibers matches the twisted structure of the yarn. In other words, it is a yarn portion that is like a non-crimped multifilament yarn twisted and heat-set. The above-mentioned "bulky twisted yarn portion" refers to a yarn portion that is twisted and in which the crimped form of the fibers is exposed. In other words, the yarn portion is like a twisted multifilament yarn that is untwisted and has crimps. In the above, "yarn having alternating tightly twisted yarn portions and bulky twisted yarn portions" refers to a state in which the yarn does not substantially have any yarn portion that does not correspond to either the tightly twisted yarn portion or the bulky twisted yarn portion. It is the thread of However, strictly speaking, there is a non-twisted yarn part that does not belong to either of the two yarn parts at the boundary between the tightly twisted yarn part and the bulky twisted yarn part, but the non-twisted yarn part does not have a meaningful length. In fact, there is nothing larger than 1mm. "D" in the above is the denier number of the yarn. In the above, "tensile strength of 0.3 g/D or more" means
When the yarn is subjected to tension running treatment at a tension of 0.3 g/D and a yarn speed of 200 m/min, even a small amount of the tightly twisted yarn portion remains, preferably 10% or more in terms of length ratio to the yarn. It is to remain. The present invention will be explained in more detail. As mentioned above, the ultimate objective of the present invention is to obtain a fabric that exhibits a texture similar to that of real twisted yarn and a light splashed pattern, and the direct objective of the present invention is to obtain a raw thread of the fabric. The higher the twist density of the untwisted portion is, the more preferable it is for the texture effect similar to real twisted yarn, and the upper limit to which the twist density of the untwisted portion can be increased is determined depending on the embodiment. The tightness of the untwisted portion is perfect, with the twisted yarn structure of the yarn in the twisted region of the false twisting process remaining intact. However, in spindle-type false twisting, when strong fusion is not occurring, the twist density of the untwisted portion is much lower than the twist density of the yarn in the twisted region of false twisting, and this difference is due to untwisting. The action of untwisting partially destroys the structure of the untwisted parts, creating cracks in the twisted wires and impairing their tightness. This tendency is stronger when the twist density of the yarn in the twisted region of the false twisting process is higher, and becomes more noticeable when the twist density is 21000/√ (number of twists/m) or more. On the other hand, the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion is higher when the twist density of the yarn in the twisted region of the false twisting process is higher, and when it exceeds 21000/√ (number of twists/m), the crimping of the fibers that contributes to bulkiness increases. will be obtained. It is also an interesting phenomenon that the twist densities of the two cases are the same. According to the method for obtaining yarn of the present invention, the twist density of the yarn in the twisted region of the false twisting process can be left almost unchanged in the untwisted part, and by the false twisting process with a high twist density, a high We were able to obtain a yarn with an untwisted part with a high twist density, and we were able to obtain a fabric using this yarn. In order for the Kasuri pattern on the fabric to become clear, the twist density in the twisted area of the false twisting process must be 21000/√ (number of twists/m) or higher. In the yarn of the present invention in which untwisted portions are partially present in the length direction of the false twisted yarn, the presence of the untwisted portions must be in an amount sufficient to fully exhibit the effect. First, regarding the texture of a real twisted yarn, as the amount of untwisted portions increases, the twist density of overly twisted portions also increases, which tends to increase the effect of twisting. On the other hand, when twisting is added to the false twisted yarn and the relationship between twist density and texture is investigated, the effect of twisting is felt when the twist density exceeds the range of 2300/√ to 2400/√ (number of twists/m). Become. In addition, various types of false twisted yarns containing untwisted portions were made as prototypes, and further twisting was applied to adjust the twist density of the over-twisted portions to 2300/√ to 2400/√ (number of twists/m). When comparing the amount and effect of untwisted parts, it was found that when the amount of untwisted parts exceeds 10%, its presence can be felt by touch. If there is 10% or more of the untwisted part with a twist density of 21000/√ (number of twists/m) or more, the twist density of the over-twisted part is in the range of 2300/√ to 2400/√ (number of twists/m). It exceeds. Next is the relationship between the Kasuri pattern and the amount of untwisted parts, which has a close relationship with the length of the untwisted parts and is also related to people's preferences, but in general What can be said is that if the amount of untwisted parts is small, there will be only scattered thin lines in the fabric, but if the amount of untwisted parts exceeds 10%, the probability that untwisted parts will be adjacent to each other increases, The lines become wider and the pattern appears more clearly. Strictly speaking, the length and amount of the untwisted part are related to the Kasuri pattern. For example, if the length of the untwisted portion is about 5 mm, even if the length is increased, it will only show spots and will not give a Kasuri pattern. The length of the untwisted part is 10
When the size is about mm, the pattern becomes somewhat longer, and when the amount is extremely large (more than 30%), it begins to take on a kasuri pattern. Also, the length of the untwisted part is 40
When it is about 2 mm, it is about 2 pieces per meter of thread (the amount is 8
%), the appearance of kasuri appears. Combining various experiments, the sum of squares of the length (mm) of the untwisted portion is 1
If it exceeds 3,000 per meter, it will be recognized as having a Kasuri pattern. Table 1 shows the results of examining and testing the relationship between the sum of squares of the length (mm) of the untwisted portion (tightly twisted yarn portion) per meter of yarn and the effect of producing a good Kasuri pattern. I will explain using The test results shown in Table 1 were obtained by using the same undrawn multifilament yarn and equipment as those described in the examples below, and by variously changing the twist density, heating temperature, stretching ratio, etc. of false twisting. We created various processed yarns (nine types) with different length ratios and average lengths of the tightly twisted yarn structure to the whole yarn, and used the processed yarns as the wefts of textiles to create a Kasuri pattern. These are the results of a sensory evaluation. In addition, polyester multifilament yarn (50 denier, 36 filaments) is used for the warp, and the warp density is 110 threads/inch.
The weft density was 85 threads/inch. In the same table, in the evaluation column, the mark ◯ indicates ``those with a good kasuri pattern appearance effect'', and the cross mark indicates ``the kasuri pattern appearance does not appear well''.
【表】
かかる第1表の結果からわかるように、上述自
乗和の値が3000以上のもの(糸番号6、8、9)
は、いずれも良好な絣模様の現出効果を示してい
る。
かかる効果が得られる点について、さらに具体
的な例を上げて説明すると、たとえば、同じ平均
長さのものであつても、すなわち、今たとえば、
平均長さ20mmという、平均値では同じ値を持つて
いる糸を想定した場合であつても、具体的には
様々な糸が存在するものであり、たとえば20mmの
長さのものばかりからなる糸は、シマ模様効果は
表わし得ても良好な絣模様の効果までは表わし得
ないものであり、一方、平均は20mmだが大部分は
5mm程度であつてかつ時々は長い5mm程度のもの
があるというような糸は、良好な絣効果を奏し得
るのである。
このように長い堅密撚糸部分(上記の例では50
mm)は長いスジとして走るので、少ない存在数で
も絣模様効果を良好に現出するのに大きな役割り
を果たすことができるのである。一方、短いもの
は非常に多く存在してでもいない限りさらにある
箇所に集中して存在してでもいない限り、良好な
絣模様の現出効果は有し得ないものであり、1次
的には、短いものは非常に多く存在していること
がまず要求される条件となる。
結局、絣模様の現出効果には、長いものは良く
目立つて効果的な要素になるものであり、さらに
あるいは、長いものばかりでなくとも、短いもの
の中に長いものが適宜に混在して平均値としては
低いものであつても、やはり長いものが少しでも
あれば、そのお陰で効果は高く得られ得るのであ
る。
したがつて、堅密撚糸部分の長さと絣模様の現
出効果との関係の追及には、長いものが存在して
いるということには重みを持たせて評価をするこ
とが有効であるという知見を本発明者らは得たも
のである。そして、ここで該手段として、ある長
さデータにその長さデータを掛けてそれらの値を
トータルするという自乗和の値を用いることが、
上記のように長さに重みを与えた定量化ができ
て、かつ絣模様現出効果との整合性も認められ、
定量化のフアクターとして最も好適であるとの知
見を得たものであり、第1表にも示したようにま
た本発明で特定するように、自乗和の値が3000以
上であれば、良好な絣模様の現出効果を示し得る
のである。
糸の抗張力性は、糸から布帛を製造する工程に
おける糸の変形と関係する。糸の変形を防ぐには
糸の抗張力性が高い方が好ましく、また低張力で
工程を通過させることが望ましい。しかし0.3
g/D以下の糸張力で工程を通過させることは、
作業性および得られる布帛の品位を阻害するた
め、少なくとも0.3g/Dの抗張力性は必要であ
る。撚を加えたり、糊を付与したりして抗張力性
を高めて用いる場合には、もとの糸はその限りで
はない。
本発明の特殊仮撚加工糸を得るに際しては、未
延伸糸を供給糸として、摩擦仮撚装置に供給し定
常状態で延伸中仮撚を施すのがまず重要な要件で
あつて、その際、延伸倍率をその未延伸糸の自然
延伸比以下の低倍率延伸に設定し、かつ該摩擦仮
撚装置は内接型、外接型は特に問われないが施撚
作用とともに糸の送り作用をも十分に有している
ものとし、実質的にバルーニングを発生させない
ようにして延伸仮撚を施す。また、仮撚加撚数は
21000/√(撚数/m)を少し超えるぐらいの
値からウーリ糸と呼ばれる通常の仮撚捲縮加工糸
を得るときの仮撚加撚数値よりも若干小さい値の
範囲内とし、かつ仮撚温度は、高めの場合ほど効
果的ではあるが、繊維相互が融着した場合、該融
着繊維を切断しなければ剥離不可能な程度の融着
度合となる如き温度は避ける必要がある。本発明
者らの知見によれば、該温度については、一般に
ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維の場合210〜240
℃程度の範囲が最適であり、ポリアミド繊維の場
合ナイロン6繊維で175〜190℃程度の範囲が最適
である。むろん、かかる範囲以外でも本発明の特
殊仮撚加工糸を得ることは可能であり、適宜、供
給糸、所望の加工糸、他の加工条件等に合わせて
設定するのがよい。また本発明においては仮撚加
工法により生産することが可能であるので、高速
かつ生産能率性よく生産することができ、コスト
の安価な加工糸を得ることができるという顕著な
効果も有する。
実施例
ポリエチレンテレフタレートを溶融紡糸して、
3000m/minの速度で引き取り、太さ126Dフイ
ラメント本数36本の未延伸マルチフイラメント糸
を得た。かかる未延伸糸の自然延伸比は1.62であ
つた。
この糸を1.4倍に延伸しつつその領域で仮撚を
付与し、仮撚による加撚領域の一部を225℃に加
熱した熱板によつて加熱した。
仮撚方法は、外接式の摩擦仮撚装置を用いるも
ので特開昭50−69343号公報に記載されている如
きものである。
仮撚加撚の撚密度を1800〜3200(撚数/m)の
範囲で各種設定したところ、すべて未解撚部分を
発生し、その撚密度は、仮撚加撚の撚密度とほぼ
等しかつた。
すなわち、この糸は、繊維の捲縮形態が糸の撚
構造と一致している堅密撚糸構造の未解撚部分
と、該堅密撚糸構造部分とは反対方向の撚を有し
かつ繊維の捲縮形態が露顕している嵩高撚糸構造
の過解撚部分とを、不規則な長さで交互に有する
ものであり、これら両構造以外の無撚糸構造部分
はほとんど認められないものであつた。
得られた糸は約90D(デニール)であり、この
糸を緯糸(85本/inch)に用い、経糸にはポリエ
ステルマルチフイラメント糸50D−24fil(135本/
inch)を用い平織に製織し評価を行なつた。未解
撚部分の撚密度と布帛の絣を比較してみると2000
(撚数/m)では絣が不明瞭であり、2400(撚数/
m)で絣が明瞭なものであつた。中間の2200(撚
数/m)では明瞭さがやや不十分の感があるもの
であつた。かかる結果から、未解撚部分の撚密度
は21000/√(撚数/m)以上の場合に絣の効
果が大きいことがわかる。
上記において、未解撚部分の撚密度が2400(撚
数/m)の本発明の糸は、仮撚加撚の撚密度を
2430(撚数/m)に設定して得られたものである。
また、この糸の構造について更に詳しく調べた
ところ緊密撚糸部分の糸全体に占める長さ割合は
17%であり、さらに、該部分の各々の長さ(mm
数)の自乗和は糸1mの当り3400であつた。
またこの糸は、布帛を製造する工程においても
特に不都合を招くような張力による変形は認めら
れないものであり、さらに布帛の官能評価におい
ても該糸は明瞭なる糸軸方向の染着性の斑や融着
の存在が認識はされなかつた。
なお、未解撚部分の撚密度、過解撚部分の撚密
度とは、適宜長さの未解撚部分、過解撚部分をそ
れぞれ採取し、それぞれの撚数を測定し、それぞ
れ1m当りの撚数に換算したものである。
比較実施例
実施例と同じ未延伸糸を用いて、特開昭53−
98444号公報に記載された方法と同様な方法で空
気仮撚加工を行つた。空気仮撚ノズルは、糸通過
孔の直径が2mmで、糸通過孔の断面の接線方向に
直径0.4mmの空気噴射孔を6個備えたものでゲー
ジ圧3.5Kg/cm2の圧空を供給した。
条件および結果を第1表に示す。[Table] As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the above-mentioned sum of squares value is 3000 or more (thread numbers 6, 8, 9)
All of them show a good Kasuri pattern appearance effect. To explain the point where such an effect can be obtained using a more specific example, for example, even if the average length is the same, that is, for example,
Even if we assume that threads have the same average length of 20 mm, there are actually a variety of threads, for example, threads that are all 20 mm long. Although it can show the striped pattern effect, it cannot show the effect of a good kasuri pattern, and on the other hand, the average length is 20 mm, but most of it is about 5 mm, and sometimes it is about 5 mm long. Such threads can produce a good Kasuri effect. Thus, a long tightly twisted yarn section (50 in the example above)
mm) runs as long stripes, so even a small number of them can play a major role in producing a good Kasuri pattern effect. On the other hand, unless there are a very large number of short pieces, and unless they are concentrated in a certain area, they cannot produce a good Kasuri pattern. , the first condition required is that there be a large number of short ones. In the end, long patterns are a prominent and effective element for the appearance of Kasuri patterns, and even if it is not just long patterns, long patterns can be appropriately mixed among short patterns to create an average effect. Even if the value is low, as long as it is long, the effect can be high. Therefore, in investigating the relationship between the length of the tightly twisted yarn portion and the effect of Kasuri pattern appearance, it is effective to give weight to the presence of long yarns. The present inventors have obtained this knowledge. Here, as the means, using a sum of squares value that multiplies certain length data by that length data and totals those values,
As mentioned above, it was possible to quantify the weight by giving weight to the length, and it was also found to be consistent with the Kasuri pattern appearance effect.
It has been found that this is the most suitable factor for quantification, and as shown in Table 1 and as specified in the present invention, if the value of the sum of squares is 3000 or more, it is considered to be a good factor. It is possible to show the appearance effect of Kasuri pattern. The tensile strength of a yarn is related to the deformation of the yarn during the process of manufacturing fabric from the yarn. In order to prevent yarn deformation, it is preferable that the yarn has high tensile strength, and it is also desirable to pass through the process with low tension. But 0.3
Passing through the process with a thread tension of less than g/D means
A tensile strength of at least 0.3 g/D is necessary because it impedes workability and the quality of the resulting fabric. When used with increased tensile strength by twisting or applying glue, the original yarn is not limited to this. In order to obtain the special false twisted yarn of the present invention, the first important requirement is to feed the undrawn yarn as a supply yarn to a friction false twisting device and to perform false twisting during stretching in a steady state. The stretching ratio is set to a low stretching ratio that is lower than the natural stretching ratio of the undrawn yarn, and the friction false twisting device is not particularly limited to an internal type or a circumscribed type, but it has a sufficient yarn feeding function as well as a twisting function. The stretch and false twist is applied in such a way that substantially no ballooning occurs. In addition, the number of false twists is
21000/√ (number of twists/m) to a value that is slightly smaller than the false twisting value used to obtain normal false twisted crimped yarn called Wooly yarn, and The higher the temperature, the more effective it is, but it is necessary to avoid a temperature that would cause the degree of fusion to such a degree that if the fibers are fused together, they cannot be separated unless the fused fibers are cut. According to the findings of the present inventors, the temperature is generally 210 to 240 for polyethylene terephthalate fiber.
The optimum temperature range is approximately 175 to 190°C for polyamide fibers and nylon 6 fibers. Of course, it is possible to obtain the special false-twisted yarn of the present invention outside of this range, and it is preferable to set the value according to the supplied yarn, desired textured yarn, other processing conditions, etc. as appropriate. Furthermore, in the present invention, since it is possible to produce by a false twisting method, it has the remarkable effect that it can be produced at high speed and with good production efficiency, and that it is possible to obtain a processed yarn at low cost. Example Melt spinning polyethylene terephthalate,
The yarn was drawn at a speed of 3000 m/min to obtain an undrawn multifilament yarn with a thickness of 126D and 36 filaments. The natural draw ratio of the undrawn yarn was 1.62. While this yarn was stretched by 1.4 times, false twisting was applied to that region, and a part of the false twisting region was heated with a hot plate heated to 225°C. The false twisting method uses a circumscribed friction false twisting device and is as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 50-69343. When the twist density of false twisting was set in the range of 1800 to 3200 (number of twists/m), untwisted portions were generated in all cases, and the twist density was almost equal to that of false twisting. Katta. That is, this yarn has an untwisted portion of a tightly twisted yarn structure in which the crimp form of the fibers matches the twist structure of the yarn, and a twist in the opposite direction to the tightly twisted yarn structure portion, and the fibers are twisted in the opposite direction. It had over-untwisted parts of a bulky yarn structure in which the crimped form was exposed, alternating with irregular length parts, and almost no untwisted yarn structure parts other than these two structures were observed. . The obtained yarn is approximately 90D (denier), and this yarn is used for the weft (85 pieces/inch), and polyester multifilament yarn 50D-24fil (135 pieces/inch) is used for the warp.
A plain weave was used for evaluation. Comparing the twist density of the untwisted part and the Kasuri fabric, it is 2000.
(number of twists/m), the Kasuri pattern is unclear, and 2400 (number of twists/m).
In case m), the kasuri pattern was clear. At the middle level of 2200 (number of twists/m), clarity seemed to be somewhat insufficient. From these results, it can be seen that the effect of Kasuri is large when the twist density of the untwisted portion is 21000/√(number of twists/m) or more. In the above, the yarn of the present invention having a twist density of 2400 (number of twists/m) in the untwisted portion has a twist density of 2400 (number of twists/m) in the untwisted part.
This was obtained by setting the number of twists to 2430 (number of twists/m). In addition, when we investigated the structure of this yarn in more detail, we found that the ratio of the length of the tightly twisted yarn to the entire yarn was
17%, and the length of each part (mm
The sum of squares of the number) was 3400 per meter of thread. In addition, this yarn does not show any deformation due to tension that would cause any particular inconvenience during the fabric manufacturing process, and furthermore, in the sensory evaluation of the fabric, the yarn showed clear unevenness in dyeability in the yarn axis direction. The existence of fusion and adhesion was not recognized. In addition, the twist density of the untwisted part and the twist density of the over-untwisted part are calculated by taking appropriate lengths of the untwisted part and over-untwisting part, measuring the number of twists of each, and calculating the twist density of the untwisted part and the over-untwisted part. This is converted into the number of twists. Comparative Example Using the same undrawn yarn as in the example,
Air false twisting was performed using a method similar to that described in Publication No. 98444. The air false twisting nozzle had a yarn passing hole with a diameter of 2 mm and six air injection holes with a diameter of 0.4 mm in the tangential direction of the cross section of the yarn passing hole, and supplied compressed air with a gauge pressure of 3.5 Kg/cm 2 . . The conditions and results are shown in Table 1.
【表】
第1表の結果からも明らかなとおり、実験番号
1〜5において、加熱温度が高いほど未解撚部分
が多く形成されるが、本発明の特徴である1m当
りの未解撚部分の長さ(mm)の自乗和が3000以上
には遠く及ばないものであつた。空気仮撚ノズル
の前後で強いバルーニングが発生し、長い未解撚
の形成を阻止していると考えられる。
なお、240℃(実験番号5)では、糸全体に繊
維相互の融着している部分が多く、交互撚が極め
て短周期で撚角が小さく、また、過解撚部分の捲
縮形態が十分には露顕していないので本発明の嵩
高撚糸部分と構造が全く異なつたものであつた。
次に、実験番号6〜9では、加熱温度を225℃
にして延伸倍率を変更して実験した。延伸倍率を
1.4倍から小さくしていくと繊維相互の融着が進
み、未解撚部分が多くなるが、バルーニングもよ
り強くなり、未解撚部分が寸断されてあまり長く
はならなかつた。延伸倍率を1.4倍から大きくし
ていくと、未解撚部分が少なくなる。繊維相互の
融着が少なくなると、糸の張力が高くなることと
が原因していると考えられる。
以上の実験結果から明らかなとおり、空気仮撚
を用いた加工方法ではいかなる条件を採用しても
本発明糸を得ることはできなかつた。
さらに以上の実験で得られた糸を緯糸に1イン
チ当り90本用いた平織物を作つたところ、未解撚
部分が点状に表現され、絣模様を呈さず、模様自
体も美しいものではなかつた。未解撚部分短く、
かつ数が多いためモアレ模様となつてイラツキを
感じ、生理的に不快なものであつた。従つて効果
上も顕著な差異を有するものであつた。[Table] As is clear from the results in Table 1, in Experiment Nos. 1 to 5, the higher the heating temperature, the more untwisted parts are formed. The sum of the squares of the lengths (mm) was far from over 3000. It is thought that strong ballooning occurs before and after the air false twisting nozzle, preventing the formation of long untwisted layers. In addition, at 240℃ (experiment number 5), there were many parts of the entire yarn where the fibers were fused together, the alternating twisting cycle was extremely short and the twist angle was small, and the crimp form in the over-twisted part was sufficient. The structure was completely different from that of the bulky twisted yarn portion of the present invention. Next, in experiment numbers 6 to 9, the heating temperature was set to 225°C.
Experiments were conducted by changing the stretching ratio. Stretching ratio
As the size was decreased from 1.4 times, the fibers began to fuse together and the untwisted portions increased, but ballooning also became stronger and the untwisted portions were fragmented and did not become too long. As the stretching ratio increases from 1.4 times, the untwisted portion decreases. This is thought to be due to the fact that when the fusion between fibers decreases, the tension of the thread increases. As is clear from the above experimental results, the yarn of the present invention could not be obtained by the processing method using air false twisting, no matter what conditions were adopted. Furthermore, when we made a plain woven fabric using 90 yarns per inch in the weft from the yarn obtained in the above experiment, the untwisted portions were expressed in dots, the Kasuri pattern did not appear, and the pattern itself was not beautiful. Ta. The untwisted part is short,
Moreover, since there were a large number of them, the moiré pattern was irritating and physiologically uncomfortable. Therefore, there was a significant difference in effectiveness.
Claims (1)
あつて、該糸は、糸軸方向に沿つて、撚密度が
21000/√(撚数/m)以上であり、かつ繊維
の捲縮形態が糸の撚構造と一致している堅密撚糸
部分と、該堅密撚糸部分とは反対方向の撚を有し
かつ繊維の捲縮形態が露顕している嵩高撚糸部分
とが、不規則な長さで交互に存在し、かつ前記堅
密撚糸部分の糸全体に占める長さ割合が10%以上
であり、更に前記堅密撚糸部分の各々の長さ(単
位:mm)の自乗和が糸1m当り3000以上であるこ
とを特徴とする実撚調仮撚加工糸(ただし、Dは
デニール数である)。 2 0.3g/D以上の抗張力性を有することを特
徴とする特許請求の範囲第1項記載の実撚調仮撚
加工糸。 3 糸軸方向に染着性の斑を実質的に有さないこ
とを特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1項記載の実撚
調仮撚加工糸。 4 構成繊維相互が融着していないか、又は融着
していても該繊維を切断せずに剥離できる程度の
融着であることを特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1
項記載の実撚調仮撚加工糸。[Scope of Claims] 1. A multifilament yarn consisting of long fibers having false twist crimp, the yarn having a twist density along the yarn axis direction.
21000/√ (number of twists/m) or more, and has a tightly twisted yarn portion in which the crimp form of the fibers matches the twist structure of the yarn, and a twist in the opposite direction to the tightly twisted yarn portion, and Bulky twisted yarn portions in which the crimped form of the fibers is exposed are alternately present at irregular lengths, and the length ratio of the tightly twisted yarn portion to the entire yarn is 10% or more, and A real-twisted false-twisted yarn characterized in that the sum of the squares of the lengths (unit: mm) of each tightly twisted yarn portion is 3000 or more per meter of yarn (where D is the denier number). 2. The real-twist textured yarn according to claim 1, which has a tensile strength of 0.3 g/D or more. 3. The real-twisted false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, which has substantially no stainable unevenness in the yarn axis direction. 4. Claim 1, characterized in that the constituent fibers are not fused to each other, or even if they are fused, the fusion is such that they can be peeled off without cutting the fibers.
Actual twist-like false twisted yarn as described in section.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13729078A JPS5567025A (en) | 1978-11-09 | 1978-11-09 | Special false twisting finished yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13729078A JPS5567025A (en) | 1978-11-09 | 1978-11-09 | Special false twisting finished yarn |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS5567025A JPS5567025A (en) | 1980-05-20 |
| JPS6332893B2 true JPS6332893B2 (en) | 1988-07-01 |
Family
ID=15195217
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP13729078A Granted JPS5567025A (en) | 1978-11-09 | 1978-11-09 | Special false twisting finished yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS5567025A (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5663035A (en) * | 1979-10-29 | 1981-05-29 | Unitika Ltd | Fancy yarn |
| JPS5663033A (en) * | 1979-10-29 | 1981-05-29 | Unitika Ltd | Partially crimped false twisted processed yarn |
| JPS5881639A (en) * | 1981-11-05 | 1983-05-17 | ユニチカ株式会社 | Hard twisted-like special processed yarn |
-
1978
- 1978-11-09 JP JP13729078A patent/JPS5567025A/en active Granted
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS5567025A (en) | 1980-05-20 |
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