JPS643982B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric having a silk-like texture and a method for producing the same. Polyesters, particularly polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester fibers mainly composed of these, have various excellent properties and are therefore widely used in woven and knitted fabrics. However, woven and knitted fabrics using such polyester fibers do not have a pleasant feel compared to natural silk fiber woven and knitted fabrics, and efforts are being made to bring them closer to these. An object of the present invention is to improve the polyester-based woven or knitted fabric to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that is extremely close to the touch and feel of silk fiber woven or knitted fabrics. That is, the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric made of a mixed yarn of polyester fibers, in which the polyester fibers have a general formula R-SO ₃ M (R: an alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms,
The pore length L obtained by alkali treatment of polyester to which an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by M: alkali metal salt is L≧5μ, and the ratio of the pore length L to the pore width W is L /W≧5 and has two or more types of porous polyester fibers in which striped voids exist in the fiber axis direction, and the outer layer of the mixed yarn includes the porous polyester fibers. Among them, those having an irregular cross-sectional shape are arranged, and the inner layer of the mixed fiber yarn is composed of a mixed yarn whose single fiber fineness is larger than that of the fibers arranged in the outer layer. In order to obtain such a woven or knitted fabric, it is necessary to add the general formula R- _SO3M (R: alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, M: A blended yarn consisting of two or more types of polyester fibers containing additives obtained by blending an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by (alkali metal salt) and melt spinning, and blending the additives constituting the blended yarn. The polyester fibers have different single fiber finenesses, and those having a larger single fiber fineness have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or more and 15% or less than those with a lower single fiber fineness, and For items with small fineness, weaving and knitting is performed using mixed fiber yarns with atypical cross-sectional shapes, and then weaving and knitting yarns with a weight loss rate of 15 ~
The woven or knitted fabric is treated with an alkaline solution to remove the additive so that the additive content is within the range of 30%, and at least streak-like voids are generated on the surface of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric. It can be obtained by a method for producing fiber woven or knitted fabrics. The present invention will be explained in detail below. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a mixed yarn of two or more types of porous polyester fibers. To explain the above porous polyester fiber in detail, at least half of the fibers have a length of 5μ or more on the fiber surface, and the length /
It is preferable that linear voids having a void width ratio of 5 or more are arranged in the fiber axis direction. The striped voids do not need to be continuous, but the striped voids have a length of 5μ or more and a length/gap width ratio of 5 or more, preferably 10 or more. It is preferable that the linear voids account for more than half of the total streaky voids, and when the ratio of such streaky voids is more than half of the total streaky voids, the dry feeling that is the object of the present invention can be achieved. can be obtained sufficiently. FIG. 1 is a side view schematically showing the linear voids on the surface of the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and numeral 1 indicates the linear voids. In FIG. 1, L indicates the length of the linear void, and W indicates the gap width of the maximum gap portion of the linear void. Even if the length of the linear void is 5μ or more,
It is desirable that the gap width W of the largest gap portion satisfies L/W≧5, and this relationship is L/W.
When W<5, the ratio of the area occupied by the linear voids to the total area of the fiber surface is large;
In woven or knitted fabrics made of such fibers, fibrillation of the fibers, especially fibrillation on the surface of the fibers, occurs during use of the woven or knitted fabric, causing problems such as surface abrasion and fading of worn parts, so it is preferable. do not have. Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is made using a mixed yarn containing two or more types of such porous polyester fibers. The mixed fiber yarn has porous polyester fibers disposed in the outer layer portion thereof having an irregular cross-sectional shape, and
This is a mixed fiber yarn in which single fibers with a large fineness are arranged in the inner layer of the yarn. The shape of the irregular cross section is preferably such that light is diffusely reflected, for example, as shown in FIG. 2. In particular, it is preferable to have a C-shaped or V-shaped cross section as shown in FIG. 2C, and a constriction in the center of the cross section. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of an irregular cross-sectional shape that can be applied to the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of such mixed fiber yarns, but in order to make such a woven or knitted fabric, two or more types of additives obtained by blending additives with a polyester composition are required. Uses polyester fibers containing additives. For example, polyester blended with an organic sulfonic acid metal salt is melt-spun through a predetermined spinneret,
A simple and preferred method is to elute and remove at least a portion of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt blended into the fiber by immersing the fiber in an aqueous solution of an alkaline compound after stretching. The polyester used here has terephthalic acid as its main component, and alkylene glycols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol,
The object is a polyester whose main glycol component is at least one glycol selected from pentamethylene glycol and hexamethylene glycol, particularly preferably ethylene glycol and tetraethylene glycol. In such a polyester, part of its acid component terephthalic acid may be replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid.
Further, part of the glycol component may be replaced with another glycol component. Such polyesters can be obtained by any manufacturing method. For example, to explain polyethylene terephthalate, it is possible to directly esterify terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol,
A glycol ester of terephthalic acid and/or a low polymer thereof is produced by transesterifying a lower alkyl ester of terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate with ethylene glycol, or by reacting terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide. It is easily produced by a first stage reaction in which the product is heated under reduced pressure and subjected to a polycondensation reaction until a desired degree of polymerization is achieved. Suitable organic sulfonic acid metal salts to be added to the polyester are those represented by the following general formula R-SO ₃ M (R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; M represents an alkali metal). . In the general formula R
When is an alkyl group, it may have a linear or branched side chain. In particular, from the viewpoint of compatibility with polyester, organic sulfonic acid metal salts in which R is an alkyl group are preferably exemplified. M is Na, K,
Examples include alkali metals such as Li. Among them, Na,
K is preferred. Note that when using an organic sulfonic acid metal salt, it is not necessary to use a single compound;
It may be a mixture of organic sulfonic acid metal salts having various alkyl groups. Preferred examples of such metal organic sulfonates include mixtures of sodium alkylsulfonates having an average of 14 carbon atoms. The amount of organic sulfonic acid metal salt added to polyester is 0.5 to 100 parts by weight of polyester.
A range of 3 parts by weight is preferred. If the amount added is less than 0.5 parts by weight, sufficient micropores will not be created even if the alkali treatment described below is performed, making it difficult to obtain the desired high-grade dry touch. If it is more than 3 parts by weight, mixing operations, spinning, etc. This is not preferable because it becomes difficult. Such an organic sulfonic acid metal salt is added to the polyester at any stage before the completion of spinning. For example, it can be added in advance to the raw materials for polyester production, or it can be added during the first stage reaction or the subsequent second stage polycondensation reaction, or it can be added to the polymer obtained after the polycondensation reaction and organic It is also possible to adopt a method of melt-mixing the sulfonic acid metal salt using, for example, a melt extruder, or a method of adding and mixing the polymer with the polymer at a stage before the spinning spout during melt-spinning. In the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric is obtained using a yarn in which two or more types of polyester fibers containing such additives are mixed, and among these two or more types of fibers, the fibers arranged in the outer layer of the mixed yarn are (having a small single fiber fineness) has an irregular cross-sectional shape,
It is also necessary that the single fibers with a larger fineness have a higher boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or more and 15% or less than the single fibers with a smaller fineness. If the boiling water shrinkage rate is less than 3%, it will be more difficult to arrange single fibers with a larger fineness in the center of the mixed yarn than those with a smaller fineness, and if the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds 15%. If this is the case, grains will appear, which is undesirable. These two or more types of fibers are made into a mixed yarn by a mixing method using an interlacing nozzle or the like,
Thereafter, a woven or knitted fabric is prepared, and the woven or knitted fabric is treated with an alkaline solution to remove the added amount and elute and remove the additive, thereby at least
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by generating streak-like voids on the surface of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric. The weight loss rate by the alkaline solution is preferably in the range of 15 to 30%. The thus obtained polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a large boiling water shrinkage rate of the fiber with a large single fiber fineness, so that the woven or knitted fabric has an appropriate bulge, and due to the large single fiber fineness, It has extremely excellent repellency. In addition, if the fibers located in the center of the yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric have a larger alkali weight loss rate than the peripheral fibers, the repellency
This is preferable because it provides a woven or knitted fabric that not only has excellent flexibility but also has an extremely excellent squeaky feel. In order to obtain a large alkaline weight loss rate for fibers with large fineness, it is preferable to increase the amount of additives. In addition, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has fibers arranged in the outer layer of the mixed fiber yarn having irregular cross-sections (those having a small single fiber fineness), and has the above-mentioned striped voids, so that the surface The texture is dry, very similar to that of silk fiber woven and knitted fabrics, and at the same time, the presence of streaky voids changes the metallic luster to a mild luster. It can be made to have a luster extremely close to that of silk. Examples will be explained below. Example 1 Dimethyl terephthalate (97 parts, 124 parts of ethylene glycol, and 0.118 parts of calcium acetate were placed in a polycondensation flask with a rectifying column, and a transesterification reaction was carried out according to a conventional method. After distilling off a theoretical amount of methanol, The reaction product was transferred to a polycondensation flask with a rectification column, and trimethyl phosphate 0.112 was added as a stabilizer.
1 part, 0.079 part of antimony oxide as a polycondensation catalyst was added, and the reaction was carried out at a temperature of 280°C and normal pressure for 30 minutes, and then
After reacting for 15 minutes under a reduced pressure of 30 mmHg, the pressure was returned to normal, and a mixture of sodium alkylsulfonates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and an average carbon number of 14 was added at several levels in the range of 0.3 to 5 parts. In either case, the pressure inside the system was gradually reduced and the reaction was allowed to proceed for 80 minutes with stirring. The final internal temperature was 280°C, the final internal pressure was 0.32 mmHg, and the obtained polymer had an intrinsic viscosity of 0.665. still,
The amount of addition of the mixture of sodium alkyl sulfonate is
0.3 part, 0.5 part, 0.7 part, 1 part, 2 part, 3 part, and 5 part. Regardless of the amount added, after the reaction was completed, the polymer was chipped and dried according to a conventional method. Next, using this dried chip, according to the usual method,
Make a raw yarn of 200de/24fils and stretch it 4.0 times.
I got 50de/24fils multifilament. Seven types of polyester filament yarns obtained by this method, 50 de/24 fils, are used as warp yarns with a warp density of 40 yarns/
cm, with a weft density of 37 threads/cm, the gray fabric is then scoured and preset according to a conventional method, and then treated in an alkaline bath of 35 g/cm of boiling water for 10 to 60 minutes (15% weight loss). ) After that, it was finished by dyeing and final setting. Table 1 shows the average length and average length/gap width of the streaky voids formed on the fiber surfaces of each sample fabric. Table 1 also shows the evaluation results of the abrasion fibrils of each sample fabric. For the evaluation of abrasion fibrils, we used a Gakushin type dyeing abrasion fastness tester manufactured by Daiei Gakusei Seiki Seisakusho, and used polyester filament 75de/36fils as the abrasion cloth.
lines/cm, latitude density 37 lines/cm). The number of friction is
After rubbing 200 times, the fibril state of the fibers on the surface of the fabric was visually evaluated using a microscope.

【table】

[Table] The codes in the table are as follows: ○: Good △: Slightly poor ×: Poor Example 2 One part of a mixture of sodium alkyl sulfonate was added in the same manner as in Example 1, chips were made, and dried. According to the usual method, make yarn of 200 de/36 fils, round cross section, and figures b, c, e, f in Figure 2,
It was stretched 4.0 times to obtain a multifilament containing additives of 50 de/36 fils. Obtained single yarn denier
The boiling water shrinkage rate of the 1.5de additive-containing polyester multifilaments was 8%. Next, the above-mentioned modified polyester multifilament with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 8%, a round cross section with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 14%, and a modified polyester multifilament 30 de /
A mixed fiber yarn was prepared using 12fils by a conventional method.
At this time, the blend ratio of the modified polyester multifilament with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 8% and the modified polyester multifilament with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 14% was 6:4. When the obtained mixed fiber yarn was relaxed in boiling water, it was confirmed that polyester filaments with small single fiber fineness were distributed more in the outer layer of the yarn than in the inner layer of the yarn. This mixed yarn is used as warp and weft.
It is woven into a plain weave with a warp density of 32 threads/cm and a weft density of 30 threads/cm, and then the gray fabric is scoured and preset in a conventional manner, and then heated in a hot alkaline bath of 35 g/cm for 60 g/cm.
Alkali treatment was performed for 1 minute. For comparison, two conventionally used semi-dull polyester filaments for textiles, 50de/
Weaving, scouring preset,
Alkali treatment was performed. The resulting fabrics were compared by 10 panelists in terms of dryness, fullness, and gloss. The results of the comparison are summarized in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] The codes in the table are: ◎: Very good ○: Good △: Slightly poor ×: Bad Example 3 The combination of outer layer polyester filament and inner layer polyester filament is the same as No. 2 of Example 2. In yarn, boiling water shrinkage rate of inner layer polyester filament 10% to 31%
Changed several levels within the range. Using this mixed yarn,
A woven fabric similar to that in Example 2 was created. Table 3 shows the quality of the obtained fabric.

[Table] The codes in the table are: ○: Good △: Slightly poor ×: Poor

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view schematically showing the linear voids on the surface of the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of an irregular cross-sectional shape that can be applied to the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric made of a mixed yarn of polyester fibers, wherein the polyester fibers have the general formula R-
The pore length L obtained by alkali treatment of polyester to which an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by SO ₃ M (R: alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, M: alkali metal salt) is L≧5μ, and two or more types of porous polyester fibers in which streak-like voids exist in a striped manner in the fiber axis direction, and the ratio of the void length L to the void width W satisfies L/W≧5,
The porous polyester fibers having an irregular cross-sectional shape are arranged in the outer layer of the mixed yarn, and the inner layer of the mixed yarn has a single fiber fineness larger than that of the fibers arranged in the outer layer. A polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric characterized by being composed of mixed yarns arranged with 2. Additives to polyester compositions with the general formula R-SO ₃ M (R: alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms,
M: A blended yarn consisting of two or more types of polyester fibers containing additives obtained by blending an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by (alkali metal salt) and melt spinning, and the additives constituting the blended yarn. The agent-containing polyester fibers have different single fiber finenesses, and those with larger single fiber finenesses have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or more and 15% or less than those with lower single fiber finenesses, and For single fibers with small fineness, a mixed fiber yarn with an irregular cross-sectional shape is used to weave and knit, and then the woven or knitted fabric is soaked in an alkaline solution so that the weight loss rate is in the range of 15 to 30%. A method for producing a polyester fiber woven or knitted material, which comprises processing to remove the additive and generate streak-like voids at least on the surface of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted material.