KR100947540B1 - Shape memory processing method of polyester fabric - Google Patents
Shape memory processing method of polyester fabric Download PDFInfo
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- KR100947540B1 KR100947540B1 KR1020070141708A KR20070141708A KR100947540B1 KR 100947540 B1 KR100947540 B1 KR 100947540B1 KR 1020070141708 A KR1020070141708 A KR 1020070141708A KR 20070141708 A KR20070141708 A KR 20070141708A KR 100947540 B1 KR100947540 B1 KR 100947540B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
- D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/046—Shape recovering or form memory
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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Abstract
본 발명은 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법에 관한 것으로서 보다 구체적으로는 수용성 고분자와 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼의 혼합물인 형상기억가공제액에 폴리에스테르계 직물을 패딩하여 픽업율 50~80%로 함침한 후, 160~180℃에서 30~100 초동안 열처리하여 건조하는 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법에 관한 것으로서 직물간에 좌우이색이나 얼룩이 발생하지 않으면서도 자연스런 구김효과 및 독특한 촉감을 발현할 수 있는 폴리에스테르계 직물을 제공할 수 있다.The present invention relates to a shape memory processing method of a polyester-based fabric, and more specifically, after impregnating a polyester-based fabric in a shape memory processing solution, which is a mixture of a water-soluble polymer and a glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion, at a pickup rate of 50 to 80%. , Which is a shape memory processing method of a polyester-based fabric which is dried by heat treatment at 160 to 180 ° C. for 30 to 100 seconds, and expresses a natural wrinkle effect and a unique touch without generating discoloration or stain between the fabrics. It is possible to provide a polyester-based fabric that can be.
폴리에스테르계 직물, 형상기억가공방법, 수용성 고분자, 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼Polyester fabric, shape memory processing method, water soluble polymer, glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion
Description
본 발명은 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법에 관한 것으로서 보다 구체적으로는 구김이 잘 생기지 않는 탄성특성을 가지는 폴리에스테르계 직물을 가공에 의해 초저반발성의 소성특성을 갖도록 하고 이러한 변형이 잘 유지되도록 하게 하는 가공방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a shape-memory processing method of a polyester-based fabric, and more specifically, to a polyester-based fabric having an elastic property that does not wrinkle well, to have an ultra-low repulsive plasticity by processing and to maintain such deformation well. It relates to a processing method to make.
폴리에스테르 직물은 예로부터 초기탄성회복율이 커서 구김의 발생이 적고, 열고정성이 우수하여 형태안정성이 우수하기 때문에 의류소재로 많이 사용해 오고 있다. Polyester fabric has long been used as a garment material because of its high initial elastic recovery rate, low generation of wrinkles, excellent heat stability, and excellent shape stability.
그러나 패션산업의 발전에 따라 소재에 대한 요구사항이 다양하게 변천되어 자연스러운 구김에 의한 천연섬유와 같은 느낌을 선호하는 경우도 발생되어 폴리에스테르 직물에도 자연스러운 구김이 발생하는 것을 필요로 하게 되었다.However, according to the development of the fashion industry, the requirements for the materials have been changed in various ways, and there are cases where the feeling of natural fibers by natural wrinkles is preferred, and natural wrinkles are required in the polyester fabric.
직물(폴리에스테르 섬유, 면, 레이온 등)의 자연스러운 구김을 발생하게 하고 이를 유지할 수 있는 형상기억가공방법으로는 직물에 금속사를 함유하도록 하는 방법이 있다. 이 방법으로는 형태의 변형 및 유지가 용이한 장점이 있으나, 장기간 사용시 직물에 함유된 금속사가 직물외부로 삐져나와 외관의 악화 및 착용자의 부상의 우려가 있는 문제점이 있다. 최근에는 듀폰에서 개발한 환경친화적인 섬유인 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트(이하 PTT라 한다.)로 제직한 직물이 형상기억성능을 발현함으로써 시장에 메모리 섬유라는 이름으로 상품화 된 바 있다. 상기 PTT 섬유는 형상기억성능은 잘 발현되나 신축성이 큰 원사로서 원사가공 및 제직시 장력이 불균일하여 염색시 좌우이색 및 얼룩이 심하고, 온도에 민감하여 고온 염색이나 열처리시 형상기억 효과가 저하되는 단점이 있었다.As a shape memory processing method for generating natural wrinkles of the fabric (polyester fiber, cotton, rayon, etc.) and maintaining them, there is a method of containing the metal yarn in the fabric. This method has the advantage of easy deformation and maintenance of the form, but there is a problem that the metal yarn contained in the fabric is protruded out of the fabric and deteriorated appearance and injury of the wearer when used for a long time. Recently, a fabric woven with polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PTT), an environmentally friendly fiber developed by DuPont, has been commercialized under the name of memory fiber on the market by expressing shape memory performance. The PTT fiber is well expressed in shape memory performance, but the elasticity of the yarn is large, and the tension is uneven during yarn processing and weaving. there was.
따라서 본 발명은 직물간에 좌우이색이나 얼룩이 발생하지 않으면서도 염색, 가공시 온도를 용이하게 조절할 수 있고 자연스런 구김효과 및 독특한 촉감을 발현할 수 있는 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법을 제공하는 것을 기술적 과제로 한다.Accordingly, the present invention provides a shape memory processing method of a polyester-based fabric that can easily control the temperature during dyeing and processing without expressing left and right colors or stains between the fabrics and can express a natural wrinkle effect and a unique touch. It is a task.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법에 있어서, 수용성 고분자와 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼의 혼합물인 형상기억가공제액에 폴리에스테르계 직물을 패딩하여 픽업율 50~80%로 함침한 후, 160~180℃에서 30~100 초동안 열처리하여 건조하는 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법이 제공된다.Therefore, according to the present invention, in the shape memory processing method of the polyester-based fabrics, after impregnating the polyester-based fabrics with a pick-up rate of 50 to 80% by padding the polyester-based fabric into a shape memory processing agent, which is a mixture of a water-soluble polymer and a glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion, 160 Shape memory processing method of the polyester-based fabric, characterized in that the drying by heat treatment for 30 ~ 100 seconds at ~ 180 ℃ is provided.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법은 폴리에스테르계 직물을 수용성 고분자와 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼의 혼합물인 형상기억가공제액에 패딩하여 함침한 후 건조하는 것으로서 염색, 가공이 용이하고 형상유지능이 우수한 가공방법에 관한 것이다.The shape memory processing method of the polyester-based fabric of the present invention is to impregnate the polyester-based fabric in a shape memory processing solution, which is a mixture of a water-soluble polymer and a glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion, and then dries, and is easy to dye and process, and has excellent shape retention ability. It relates to a processing method.
상기 형상기억가공제액은 수용성 고분자 3~10중량%, 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼 3~10중량% 및 증류수 80~94중량%로 이루어진 것을 사용하는 것이 바람직한데, 수용성 고분자는 폴리비닐알콜, 폴리비닐아세테이트, 아크릴, 폴리우레탄으로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 어느 하나인 것을 사용할 수 있다. 또한 상기 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼은 글리세린지방산에스테르 60~75중량% 및 폴리옥시에틸렌소르비탄지방산에스테르 25~40중량%를 혼합하여 에멀젼상태로 만든 것을 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 상기 폴리옥시에틸렌소르비탄지방산에스테르는 글리세린지방산에스테르와 함께 안정한 에멀젼상태를 이루기 위한 가용화제의 역할을 한다.The shape memory processing agent is preferably used consisting of 3 to 10% by weight of water-soluble polymer, 3 to 10% by weight of glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion and 80 to 94% by weight of distilled water, the water-soluble polymer is polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylacetate, acrylic , Any one selected from the group consisting of polyurethane can be used. In addition, the glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion is preferably prepared by mixing 60 to 75% by weight of glycerin fatty acid ester and 25 to 40% by weight of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester in an emulsion state. The polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester serves as a solubilizer for achieving a stable emulsion state with glycerin fatty acid ester.
상기 수용성고분자는 형상기억가공제액에 함유되어 섬유와 가교작용을 하며, 상기 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼은 가소화 작용을 한다. 특히 글리세린지방산에스테르 및 폴리옥시에틸렌소르비탄지방산에스테르의 가소화 작용으로 인하여 상기 형상기억가공방법에서 자연스러운 구김과 유연한 효과를 부여할 수 있다.The water-soluble polymer is contained in the shape memory processing solution to crosslink with the fiber, and the glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion has a plasticizing action. In particular, due to the plasticizing action of glycerin fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, it is possible to give a natural wrinkle and flexible effect in the shape memory processing method.
본 발명에서 상기 형상기억가공제액에 폴리에스테르계 직물을 패딩하게 되는데, 픽업율을 50~80%로 함침한다. 50% 미만일 때에는 구김효과가 저하되는 문제점이 있고, 80%를 초과하는 경우에는 번짐얼룩의 문제점을 발생할 수 있다. 이후, 160~180℃에서 30~100 초동안 열처리하여 건조하여 형상기억가공방법을 완료하게 된다.In the present invention, the shape-memory processing agent is padded with a polyester-based fabric, impregnated with a pick-up rate of 50 to 80%. If less than 50%, there is a problem that the wrinkle effect is reduced, if more than 80% may cause a problem of bleeding stains. Thereafter, by heat treatment for 30 to 100 seconds at 160 ~ 180 ℃ to complete the shape memory processing method.
본 발명에 의하여 일반 폴리에스테르 원사를 기존의 공정대로 제직하여 염색한 후 후가공시 건조기에서 형상기억가공제를 직물에 함침함으로써 PTT 직물의 문제점을 해결하면서도 직물간에 좌우이색이나 얼룩이 발생하지 않으면서도 염색, 가공시 온도를 용이하게 조절할 수 있는 형상 기억 성능을 지닌 직물을 용이하게 생산 할 수 있고, 불소발수가공 등 기능 가공도 동시에 처리할 수 있는 장점이 있고 수용성 수지와 에틸렌글리콜에스테르 유화제에 의한 자연스런 구김효과 및 독특한 촉감을 발현할 수 있는 직물을 제공할 수 있다.After weaving and dyeing general polyester yarns according to the existing process according to the present invention, after impregnating the shape memory agent in the fabric during the drying process, while solving the problems of PTT fabrics, dyeing and processing without having left and right colors or stains between the fabrics It has the advantage of being able to easily produce fabrics with shape memory performance that can easily control the temperature, and simultaneously process functional processing such as fluorine water repellent, and the natural wrinkle effect by water-soluble resin and ethylene glycol ester emulsifier and It is possible to provide a fabric capable of expressing a unique touch.
이하 다음의 실시 예에서는 본 발명의 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법에 대한 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples are given as non-limiting examples of the shape memory processing method of the polyester-based fabric of the present invention.
[실시예 1]Example 1
글리세린지방산에스테르 75중량% 및 폴리옥시에틸렌소르비탄지방산에스테르 25중량%를 혼합하여 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼을 만든 후, 폴리비닐아세테이트 5중량%와 상기 글리세린지방산에스테르에멀젼 10중량% 및 증류수 85중량%를 혼합하여 형상기억가공제액을 준비하였다. 폴리에스테르계 직물(DTY 75D/72F ＊ DTY 75D/72F, 56 inch, 150 g/yard)을 염색한 후 상기 형상기억가공제액에 패딩하여 픽업율 60%로 함침한 후, 180℃에서 1분 동안 열처리 건조하여 폴리에스테르계 직물의 형상기억가공방법을 완료하였다.75% by weight of glycerin fatty acid ester and 25% by weight of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester were mixed to form a glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion, and then 5% by weight of polyvinyl acetate, 10% by weight of the glycerin fatty acid ester emulsion and 85% by weight of distilled water were mixed. To prepare a shape memory processing solution. After dyeing polyester-based fabrics (DTY 75D / 72F ＊ DTY 75D / 72F, 56 inch, 150 g / yard), the shape memory solution was padded and impregnated with a pick-up rate of 60%, followed by heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 1 minute. Drying was completed the shape memory processing method of the polyester-based fabric.
[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1
실시예 1의 형상기억가공방법을 행하지 않은 폴리에스테르계 직물을 준비하였다.A polyester-based fabric was not prepared in which the shape memory processing method of Example 1 was not performed.
[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2
일반 폴리에스테르 원사 DTY75D/72F를 욕비 1:5, 130 ℃ × 40 분, 분산제 1g/ℓ, pH =4.5, 고압분산 염료 ; 1% o.w.f 로 사염하여 750 T/M 연사한 후 경사, 위사로 동시에 사용하여 폭 60 inch, 중량 150 g/yard, 경사본수 12,000 본으로 제직하여 비교포를 준비하였다. General polyester yarn DTY75D / 72F with a bath ratio of 1: 5, 130 ° C. × 40 min, dispersant 1 g / L, pH = 4.5, high pressure disperse dye; A non-woven fabric was prepared by weaving at 750 T / M by 1% o.w.f, and then weaving it into a width of 60 inches, a weight of 150 g / yard, and 12,000 yarns with a warp yarn at the same time.
상기 실시예 및 비교예의 직물을 손으로 감싸쥐어 구긴후의 모습을 도 1 내지 도 3에 나타내었다. 직물전체가 자연스럽게 잘 구겨져 형태가 유지되는 도 1과는 달리 도 2 및 도 3의 직물은 구김이 자연스럽지 못하고 구김의 형태가 온전히 유지되지 못하는 모습을 보이고 있다.1 and 3 show the appearance of the fabric after wrapping the fabric of the examples and comparative examples by hand. Unlike FIG. 1, where the whole fabric is naturally wrinkled to maintain its shape, the fabric of FIGS. 2 and 3 is not naturally wrinkled, and the shape of the wrinkle is not maintained.
도 1은 본 발명의 실시예 1의 직물을 손으로 감싸쥐어 구긴후의 모습을 찍은 사진이며, Figure 1 is a photograph taken after squeezing by wrapping the fabric of Example 1 of the present invention by hand,
도 2 및 도 3은 각각 비교예 1 및 비교예 2의 직물을 손으로 감싸쥐어 구긴후의 모습을 찍은 사진이다. 2 and 3 are photographs taken after rolling the fabric of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 by hand.
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| JP2005232606A (en) | 2004-02-18 | 2005-09-02 | Kao Corp | Spray wrinkle remover composition |
| JP2006274499A (en) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-10-12 | Kao Corp | Textile treatment composition |
| KR100821845B1 (en) | 2007-04-30 | 2008-04-14 | 주식회사 삼광염직 | Shape Stabilizer for Cellulose Fibers and Shape Stabilization Process Using the Same |
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| JP2005232606A (en) | 2004-02-18 | 2005-09-02 | Kao Corp | Spray wrinkle remover composition |
| JP2006274499A (en) | 2005-03-30 | 2006-10-12 | Kao Corp | Textile treatment composition |
| KR100821845B1 (en) | 2007-04-30 | 2008-04-14 | 주식회사 삼광염직 | Shape Stabilizer for Cellulose Fibers and Shape Stabilization Process Using the Same |
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| KR20200002729A (en) | 2019-12-18 | 2020-01-08 | (주)네오클래식 | Slub Knit Fabrics Containing Metallic Yarn And knitting method thereof |
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