KR20200007427A - Fabric using yarn with better heat setting property and Denim using thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided are an all-direction span fabric and a production method thereof. By having a yarn with improved heat settability in at least one of a warp and a weft, it is possible to improve stretchability in a longitudinal and lateral direction.

Description

Fabric using yarn with better heat setting property and Denim using pretty}

The present invention relates to a fabric using a core spun yarn using a spandex yarn having excellent heat setability as a core (screening). More specifically, the present invention relates to a fabric using at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, more preferably, the core spun yarn essential to the warp yarn.

Conventionally, in the case of a fabric fabric, when elastic properties are required, the elastic yarn is mainly applied by using a covering yarn (composite elastic yarn) to which elastic yarn is applied only in the weft direction. However, as the demand for more flexible fabrics and garments increases, efforts and techniques have been required to increase elasticity in various ways.

In order to increase elasticity, elastic composite yarn or elastic covering yarn using spandex as a core is used even in the inclined direction, but there is a problem that the fabric shrinks severely in the radial direction and there is a problem of squealing or too much pressure when worn. After washing, there is a problem that the shrinkage occurs badly.

The present invention has been made to solve the above problems, by using a core spun yarn comprising a spandex with improved heat setability in at least one of the warp and weft as a core, in particular spandex with improved heat setability in the warp While using a core spun yarn as a core, it is a problem to solve the lingering caused by the severe shrinkage of the fabric in the radial direction, and to provide an extensible fabric having excellent stretch characteristics in the four directions.

As a means for solving the above problem,

The fabric using the heat settability improving yarn of the present invention has a warp and weft yarn comprising a core spun yarn, the core spun yarn includes a spandex yarn and a hard yarn, and the core spun yarn included in the warp and weft yarn has a heat settability. The core may have an improved spandex yarn, and only warp yarns may include spandex with improved heat setability, or warp and weft yarns may include spandex with improved heat setability at the same time.

In addition, the spandex yarn with improved heat setability is characterized in that the HSE (%) is 50% or more and 75% or less.

In addition, the hard yarn is characterized in that any one selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefins, cotton and combinations thereof.

In addition, the fabric is characterized in that the inclination elongation rate is 20% or more, the growth is 7% or less, shrinkage -8% to 0% compared to the fabric before applying the tension.

In addition, the fabric is characterized in that the weft direction elongation is 50% or more, the growth is 8% or less, shrinkage -10% to 0% compared to the fabric before applying the tension.

Denim of the present invention is characterized by using a fabric using the heat setability improving yarn.

Fabric using the heat-setability improving yarn of the present invention has the effect of ensuring excellent target properties compared to the case of using a general spandex in the inclined direction. In particular, compared to the case of using the spandex yarn only in the weft direction, there is an effect capable of securing excellent stretch properties, easy shrinkage properties and proper weight of the fabric to the garment. Appropriate weight of the fabric is different depending on the use and type of fabric, it is possible to secure a variety of weight of the target fabric. In addition, while including the spandex yarn in the warp, there is an effect that woggling does not appear.

Furthermore, the fabric using the heat setability improving yarn of the present invention has the characteristics of securing the proper weight required for the shrinkage and elongation characteristics, the fabric currently required for denim fabrics.

EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION Hereinafter, this invention is demonstrated in detail.

In the present invention, 'spandex' refers to an elastic fiber in which the molecular chain having a urethane bond occupies at least 85% of the chemical structure constituting the fiber.

In addition, in order for the fabric of the present invention to be stretchable in all directions, spandex yarn is used in combination with relatively inelastic fibers, and these relatively inelastic fibers are referred to as 'hard yarns'.

The present invention has a warp and weft yarn comprising a core spun yarn, the core spun yarn comprises a spandex yarn and a hard yarn, the core spun yarn included in the warp is characterized in that the core has a spandex yarn with improved heat setability It relates to a fabric using a heat setability improving yarn and a denim using the same.

That is, the present invention relates to a fabric and a denim using the same, characterized in that the core spun yarn including the spandex yarn having improved heat setability as a core is included only in the warp yarn or simultaneously in the warp yarn and the weft yarn.

In the present invention, the core is characterized in that the spandex yarn with improved heat setability. Spandex yarn with improved heat setability of the present invention is characterized by having the following physical properties. The initial yarn (L0) was 100% elongated (L1) while exposed to the atmosphere, and then subjected to dry heat treatment at 170 ° C. for 1 minute, cooled to room temperature, and then the length (L2) of the yarn was measured. Dry heat treated yarn was moist heat treated at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes in a relaxed state and dried at room temperature to measure the length (L3) of the yarn, and the dry heat setability and heat set efficiency (HSE) of the yarn was calculated according to the following equation. It was.

Dry Heat Setability (%) = {(L2-L0) / (L1-L0)} X 100

HSE (%) = {(L3-L0) / (L1-L0)} X 100

At this time, the spandex yarn of the improved heat setability of the present invention is characterized in that the HSE (%) is 55% or more, preferably 50% or more and 75% or less. If the HSE (%) of the spandex yarn is less than 50%, there is no effect of improving the woggling after fabrication, and if it is more than 75%, elasticity is lowered, resulting in insufficient resilience compared to the target.

In the present invention, the sheath is characterized in that the hard yarn. The hard yarn is any one selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefins, cotton and combinations thereof. Preferred hard yarns of the present invention are cotton.

The core spun yarn of the present invention consists of a core and a sheath, and is a processed yarn of a shape in which the core is not exposed to the fiber surface. The core and sheath are core spun by ring spinning or open-end spoinning in a spinning device to produce a core spun yarn.

The fabric of the present invention can be woven from the core spun yarn. In this case, the weaving pattern may be plain weave, twill weave (runner weave), runner weave, rugged weave, basket weave, oxford, or the like, and may be suitably used for denim in the case of twill weave.

In the present invention, the warp and the weft may be the same or different. For the warp and weft yarns, spandex yarns with improved heat setability or ordinary spandex yarns without heat setability enhancement properties can be used as cores. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to include a core spun yarn including a spandex yarn having improved thermosetability as a core in the warp yarn.

The fabric of the present invention may only be stretchable or false-neutral, or may be stretchable, in which stretchability appears in both oblique and weft directions.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through examples. The following embodiments are only illustrated for the purpose of describing the embodiments according to the concept of the present invention, the embodiments according to the concept according to the present invention can be implemented in various forms, but are not necessarily limited to the present invention. .

Evaluation methods for the stretch characteristics and shrinkage characteristics of the fabric shown in Examples and Comparative Examples to be described later are as follows.

[Method for Evaluating Physical Properties of Fabric Samples]

Evaluation of elongation and growth of the fabric was carried out in accordance with ASTM D3107-07, and shrinkage of the fabric was evaluated according to the AATCC 135 standard.

Sample Preparation: Cut 1 m from the edge of each fabric and take a 1 m long sample again.

-Preparation of specimens: Each sample is prepared with three pairs of specimens 65 * 560 mm long so that the long direction is parallel to the test direction. Each sample is taken at several places in the diagonal direction of the width.

Conditioning: Each specimen is allowed to equilibrate for testing in a standard environment or for testing in a specific environment.

Elongation of the fabric after applying the specified tension

 Mark at least 250 ± 1 mm apart from the center of the specimen. The tension is applied to (1) 1.8 kg or (2) 1.35 kg, but if there is no standard, it is to be (1). Tighten a portion of the upper clamp so that the end of the folded and sewn loop hangs. Record the distance as 'O1' before applying tension, and then apply the tension of (1) or (2) above. At this time, the value measured immediately (within 10 seconds) is 'A', and the value measured after 30 seconds ± 1 minute is set to 'B'.

Tensile stretch after 10 seconds of tensioning = 100 * (A-O1) / O1

% Elongation of fabric 30% after tensioning = 100 * (B-O1) / O1

Growth of the fabric

 Remove the tension weight used to measure elongation and recover from the absence of tension. Immediately (within 10 seconds) distance 'C', distance 30 seconds ± 1 second 'D', distance 30 minutes ± 1 minute 'E', distance 1 hour ± 1 minute 'F', 2 hours ± After 1 minute, record the distance as 'G'.

% Growth of fabric after stretching due to tension = 100 * (a-O1) / O1

Where a = C, D, E, F or G, but mainly C.

Shrinkage of the fabric

The shrinkage measurement of the fabric is performed by 38cm * 38cm sampling on each fabric, followed by marking the 25cm * 25cm part of the center with a square. The sample can be processed in various ways depending on the washing conditions. In this evaluation, washing was repeated three times at 49 ± 3 ° C. using Tumble dry. If the length after washing is 'H', the shrinkage of fabric is calculated as follows.

Shrinkage (%) = 100 * (H-25) / 25

[ Production Example ]

In the case of the core spun yarn, a general ring spun method was used, and a cotton yarn 21 male yarn was used as the hard yarn. Among the core spun yarns, the spandex (DR) of the spandex for producing the core spun yarn used for the weft yarn was 3.8 times (ie, 280% elongation), and the spandex DR for the core spun yarn used for the warp yarn was 2.2 times. (Ie 120% elongation). Each core spun yarn was manufactured under the same conditions, and only the type of spandex was changed to a spandex having improved heat setability and a spandex without improving heat setability. The core spun yarn fed to the weft yarn when weaving the fabric using the core spun yarn was stretched to 260%, and the core spun yarn added to the warp yarn was used without beaming.

After fabrication of twill fabric using the core spun yarn, the average density before washing with water was 60-75 (picks / inch), and the density after washing was found to be 65-75 (picks / inch).

The fabric was prepared as a sample after the fabrication of the fabric in the following two processes, respectively through other processes such as dyeing. Both processes are to prepare a typical stretch fabric.

[Fabric manufacturing process]

Example  One

The fabric was manufactured by the method of the above production example using a core spun yarn made of spandex yarn with improved heat setability to warp and weft yarn during fabric production.

Example  2

The fabric was fabricated by the method of the manufacturing example using a core spun yarn made of spandex yarn with improved heat setability for warp yarns, and a core spun yarn made of ordinary spandex yarn without heat setability improving properties for warp yarns. .

Comparative example  One

The fabric was manufactured by the method of the above production example using a core spun yarn made of a general spandex yarn that does not have heat setability improving characteristics in the warp and weft yarn during fabric production.

Comparative example  2

The fabric was manufactured by the method of the above production example using a core spun yarn made of 100% cotton yarn for warp yarns, and a core spun yarn made of a general spandex yarn having no heat setability improvement property in the weft.

Comparative example  3

100% cotton yarn was used for warp and weft yarn during fabric preparation to prepare the fabric by the method of the above example.

The stretch properties and shrinkage properties of the fabric obtained by the above Examples and Comparative Examples are shown in Table 1 below.

Target Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Radial elongation elongation 20% ↑ 22.2 21.2 17.1 10.1 5.2 Growth 7% ↓ (5% ↓) 5.4 6.4 9.8 17.1 15.6 Upward elongation elongation 50% ↑ 78.9 68.6 80.4 77.6 22.5 Growth 8% ↓ (5% ↓) 5.8 6.2 7.9 8.8 20.9 Shrinkage characteristics Radial direction -8% (-6%)-0% -5.87 -6.22 -11.48 -3.12 -2.3 Up direction -10% (-8%)-0% -7.25 -8.29 -11.16 -11.48 -3.25

In Table 1, the values outside the parentheses among the target values are reference values of the stretch characteristics and contraction characteristics required by the present invention, and the values in parentheses mean the maximum required values that can indicate the stretch characteristics and contraction characteristics of the present invention. A target arrow '↑' means 'above' and '↓' means 'less than'.

The target value for the shrinkage characteristic means that the shrinkage should be in the range of -8% (-6%) to 0% in the radial direction. It also means that it should contract in the range of -10% (-8%) to 0% in the upward direction. Here, (-) means that the size of the fabric used in the experiment was reduced.

It can be seen that the fabric according to the present invention satisfies the physical property standards, particularly exhibits excellent elongation in the radial elongation characteristics, and further exhibits excellent elongation characteristics in both warp and weft yarns.

In particular, in the radial shrinkage characteristic, when this value is -12% to -16% exceeding the range of -8% to 0%, the problem of sewing line sewing after washing appears. In addition, the shrinkage after washing becomes so large that it cannot satisfy the functions and consumer demands as a general fabric.

However, the fabric of the present invention has a shrinkage characteristic because the shrinkage characteristic in the radial direction compared to the fabric before tension is achieved in a target value within the range of -8% to 0%, and further, within the maximum requirement of -6% to 0%. It can be seen that this is very excellent.

In the case of the growth of the fabric, when the fabric of the present invention is made of denim when it exceeds 7% in the radial direction or 8% in the upward direction, in particular, the knee portion does not recover after extension and the knee is stretched. The problem comes out.

However, the fabric of the present invention showed 6.4% and 5.4% in the radial growth compared to the fabric before the tension was applied, and the growth in the upper direction also showed the elongation characteristics of 6.2% and 5.8%, which is more remarkable than the comparative example. You can see that there is no problem with the knee.

Claims (6)

It has a warp and weft yarn including a core yarn, the core yarn includes a spandex yarn and a hard yarn, the core yarn included in the warp and weft yarn may have a spandex yarn with improved heat setability as a core, only the warp yarn A fabric using a heat setability improving yarn comprising spandex with improved heat setability or warp and weft yarns with spandex with improved heat setability at the same time. 10. The fabric using a thermoset improving yarn according to claim 1, wherein the spandex yarn having improved thermosetability has an HSE (%) of 50% or more and 75% or less. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the hard yarn is any one selected from the group consisting of wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefins, cotton, and combinations thereof. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric has a warp elongation of at least 20%, growth is not more than 7%, and shrinkage -8% to 0% compared to the fabric before the tension is applied using the thermoset improvement yarn fabric. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric has a weft direction elongation of at least 50%, growth is 8% or less, and shrinkage -10% to 0% compared to the fabric before the tension using a thermoset improvement yarn fabric. Denim using the fabric of any one of claims 1 to 5.