NO843031L - PROCEDURE AND METHOD FOR COLORING PHANERA (KERATE-SUBSTANCES) - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for coloring / toning Phanera (hair and other keratinous substances) comprising two steps: 1. Washing with an aqueous mixture containing at least two non-ionic surfactants of different chemical structure, a non-toxic metal salt and an organic acid, and 2 Staining / toning with an aqueous mixture containing two types of surfactants, one of which may be anionic, an alcohol, a fat compound, a thickener and a natural dye.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for dyeing Phanera with natural dyes using an aqueous solution or dispersion containing a surface-active agent, and the peculiarity of the method is that it is carried out in two successive steps, the first of which consists in treating Phanera with a solution containing at least two non-ionic surfactant compounds of different chemical nature and one or more metal salts or complexes without a dye, while the second step comprises applying to Phanera a solution or dispersion containing the natural dye(s), at least one non-ionic surfactant, one or more non-ionic and/or anionic surfactants, an alcohol and a fatty compound.

The invention also includes mixtures for carrying out the first step of the aforementioned method, comprising an aqueous solution of a wetting agent or detergent, and the peculiarity of the mixture according to the invention is that it comprises one or more polyalkylated alkylaryl surface-active compounds (T^) , at least one other nonionic surfactant compound (T£) without aryl groups,

a non-toxic metal salt or complex (M), especially of metals of groups II to V of the periodic table,

as well as a sufficient amount of an organic acid (R) so that the pH in the mixture should not exceed 7 and preferably be from 3 to 6.

The invention also includes a mixture for carrying out the second step in the method stated in claim 1, comprising an aqueous solution or dispersion of a natural dye and at least one surface-active agent, and the peculiarity of the mixture is that it contains one or more polyalkylated alkylaryl surfactants compounds (T^), at least one other nonionic nonaryl or anionic surfactant compound (T4), c 1 to C5 alcohol (P) or a glycolic or glyceryl polyalcohol, a fatty compound (G), especially a Cg to C 22 fatty acid or an ester or soap of such an acid and preferably also an inorganic or organic thickener (E), preferably a clay, a cellulose derivative, polysaccharide, gum resin or starch, the pH in this mixture being from 6 to 8.

These and other features of the invention appear in the patent claims.

The invention relates to improvements in compounds for coloring Phanera, especially body hair and head hair and more particularly relates to the use of natural dyes or dye extracts. Special mixtures for carrying out the dyeing process according to the invention are described.

Dyeing of keratin-containing elements and more particularly of hair or fur has been carried out since ancient times and has been carried out through the ages with the help of very different means, from the application of colored metal salts or vegetable dyes such as e.g. henna, used by the Egyptians from the Third Dynasty, to synthetic dyes, mostly of an amine structure, used in modern times. Despite this diverse prior art, the problem of achieving a good stable non-toxic dyeing that does not give rise to allergic reactions still persists, both with regard to the treatment of body hair and fur and above all in connection with the dyeing of living head hair or in the form of wigs and the like. It is actually considered that the classic formula not only requires a difficult and often lengthy application process, but that it also leads to irregular and hardly stable capillary dyes. With regard to synthetic dyes, generally based on aromatic amines, the danger from a health point of view is now well known. It is particularly known that in-situ oxidation of these dyes, with hydrogen peroxide and the addition of ammonia, releases a barely acceptable odor and gives rise to certain dangers of allergic reactions.

For all these reasons, the current tendency is to use non-toxic natural dye extracts, and fix them in a new way to achieve a stable coloring of the desired tint, without complicated and long-lasting treatment. It has thus been recently proposed in French patent document No. 2,500,748 to use natural dyes, extracted or synthesized, which are mixed with waste or non-waste vegetable powders as well as solid diluents. These compositions, which are presented in the form of a powder, are diluted with water at the time of use to form a paste having a viscosity of from 13 to 27 poise at the time of use. This process necessitates the use of mechanical devices for the production of the paste to be applied, which is a disadvantage in commercial use, especially in hairdressers. The pastes used in this technique must also have an alkaline reaction, in most cases a pH of 9 to 9.8 and the disadvantages thereof for Phanera and hairy skin are well known. This application of the prior art also involves large amounts of dyes or dye extracts to finally give only a rather weak modification of the color tint in the hair, while on the other hand the dyeings thus obtained are not very durable.

The present invention adds a marked improvement to the previously known technique in that it allows the firm fixation of one or more natural dyes to keratin-containing substances, more particularly head hair or body hair, during a significantly shorter time than that which has hitherto been necessary for dyeing by using natural dyes or dye extracts. A further advantage of the invention is that it requires dyes in smaller quantities than previously to achieve the desired toning intensity. The desired stable coloring can thus be achieved during a time which most closely corresponds to the time required for the application of synthetic dyes. This period can be approximately 40 to 50 min. and is thus much shorter than in the case of known techniques, which require up to 2 hours when you want to achieve strong toning. The invention also provides an improvement in that it can result in a pH in the applied mixture generally below 7 or at most 8.

The new method according to the invention

comprises, as mentioned, two steps, the first of which consists in treating and washing the Phanera with a special aqueous solution containing two different types of surface-active compounds and at least one metal salt, the pH of the solution not exceeding 7. The second step, the actual dyeing, consists in that the thus washed Phanera is supplied with an aqueous solution or dispersion of the selected dye or dyes, containing two types of surfactants, of which at least one is a non-ionic compound, one or more low molecular weight alcohols and one or more fatty acids or derivatives of such acids.

Preferably, the solution or dispersion of the dyes contains thickeners to more easily hold the dye mixture in place.

In accordance with the invention, the first solution for washing and treatment is maintained in contact with Phanera for 3 to 20 min. depending on the type of body hair or head hair and especially its fat content.

As no treatment is required between the two steps, apart from cleansing with lukewarm water, the color solution or dispersion is applied for 3 to 30 min. so that the total treatment in the two stages lasts an average of 10 to 60 minutes. and usually from 40 to 50 min. The coloring is also followed by a cleansing with lukewarm water.

In order to facilitate the understanding of the subsequent part of the description, the different products used in the mixtures are used to carry out the process

A-In the previous treatment solution or treatment water: - a non-ionic surface-active compound of the class of polyalkylated alkyl aryl ethers.

T2- nonionic surfactant which

belongs to a different class than .

M - salt or complex of a metal cation.

R - organic acid soluble in water.

B - In the dye solution or suspension, i.e. the dye itself: T 3 - non-ionic surfactant compound of the type of polyalkylated alkyl aryl ether which may be the same as or different from this.

T4. - anionic or nonionic surfactant

compound different from T^.

P - low molecular weight alcohol or a polyol derivative

from a C~or C, alcohol.

G - Fatty acid or a derivative of such an acid.

E - if necessary, a thickener, and

C - natural dye which can be in pure form or as an extract or parts of plants containing the dye.

The preceding defines the principles of the invention and in the following more detailed comments are given regarding each of the mixtures in question.

- may include one or more non-ionic surface-active agents which are made up of polyalkylated and especially polyethoxylated alkylaryl agents. Particularly suitable are compounds of the type:

wherein R' is straight chain or branched C, to C 1-4 alkyl and more particularly to

C^2' while n is at least 5 and is preferably from 6 to 15. The total concentration of these

agents in the aqueous treatment water are generally from 20 to 50 g/l and preferably 40 to 60 g/l.

Tp - represents one or more surface-active compounds, also non-ionic, but of a different nature than T^; they can be made up of the usual softeners, detergents or wetting agents used in capillary treatments. These include e.g. alkyl amides derived from Cg to C£Q fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin. Particularly suitable are the corresponding alkanolamides derived in particular from mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamines or propanolamines. Other T2 agents can be polyethoxylated fatty esters of sorbitan (or anhydro-1,4-d.sorbitol). Mainly these are esters of Cg to C2Q fatty acids and the number of ethoxy groups is from 4 to 20.

Other T2~ compounds are fatty esters of di- or tri-alcohols, especially of C8 to C2Q acids with glycols or glycerol, polyalkylated fatty alcohols, especially C^ to C^c; primary alcohols or C^ to C^5 secondary alcohols with 2 to 15 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Alkoxylated fatty acids, especially C^ to C^ acids with an oxyethylated chain of 4 to 20 oxygen atoms. Among Among others T ? compounds can be mentioned esters of a polyethylene glycol with fatty acids, products obtained by condensation of ethylene oxide with fatty amines or with fatty acids, as well as copolymers of ethylene oxide with polyoxypropylene. Depending on the nature and softening-wetting ability of the surfactant T2 used, the content of this or these compounds in the treatment water can be from 5 to 30 g/l and preferably from 8 to 20 g/l.

M - denotes the metal salt or salts used, derived from non-toxic metals, especially di- or trivalent metals.

Particularly suitable are metals in groups II to V of the periodic table. Aluminum is preferred, especially as it provides numerous non-toxic salts and complexes. The anions and these salts are also selected from those which have no toxicity and thus acetates, acetoborates, acetotartrates, sulphates, boron formates, boronate tartrates, chloroalcoholates, chlorohydroxyborates, lactates, glycinates, dihydroxyacetates, propionates, butyrates, alkane polysulphonates, methionates and 3-naphthol disulphonates can be used . These salts or complexes of aluminum are particularly useful and e.g. salts of allontoin and aluminium, mixed Al and Mg salts of aliphatic monoacids, mixed complexes of aluminum and titanium chlorides or aluminum and silicon chlorides, as well as mixed ones; sulfates or lactates of aluminum and an alkali metal.

The total concentration of the metal salts present is preferably from 0.05 to 0.5 metal atoms per liters of treatment water or better from 0.1 to 0.3. The pH of this solution or suspension should be from 2.5 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 8.

However, the final pH at the time of application of the mixture A should not exceed 7 and is preferably between 3 and 6. For this purpose, the aqueous solution or suspension containing the components T^, T and M is added a sufficient amount of an organic acid R to set pH to such a value. The organic acid R soluble in water can be a straight-chain or branched monovalent or polyvalent acid, which, if necessary, carries one or more alcohol and/or amine functions. Several of these acids can be used together if this is desired. As one non-limiting example, mention may be made of formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, aminoacetic acid, aspartic acid and glutamic acid and others.

From the foregoing it can be seen that the mixture A for the preliminary treatment of Phanera before dyeing is essentially different from the commonly used solutions, especially in the case of fur. During the works leading to the present invention, it was actually found that in order to fix a natural dye firmly and uniformly to a keratinous material, it is necessary to free its surface not only from fatty materials, but also from various other substances, especially proteinaceous ones substances, which affect fixation of the dye. This object is achieved in an unexpected way when a degreasing surfactant, esp

defined in the preceding, is accompanied by another surfactant, also non-ionic, T2, containing different chemical groups from the groups in T^. Also unlike most known degreasing solutions of a mainly basic character, as in the case of ordinary soaps, the mixture A has a pH not exceeding 7 and is preferably slightly acidic, obtained by the addition of a water-soluble organic acid R. Another difference

lies in the presence of a metal salt M which makes the surface of the keratin-containing material receptive to natural dyes. The special mixture A comprising the substances described above, + T2+ M + R constitutes a decidedly new combination which significantly improves the coloring of Phanera.

Components of the mixture B

The first surfactant T_ is of the same

type as the surfactant described above. It may be the same compound or some other compound, obtained from the same class of polyalkylated alkyl aryl ethers.

The concentration in the coloring liquid is generally from 15 to 60 g/l and preferably from 30 to 35 g/l.

T. can be a nonionic or anionic surfactant. Its presence, without being absolutely necessary, can be of considerable benefit in that it exerts one or more effects on the keratin-containing material being treated, such as cleansing, surface degreasing, preparations for combing, swelling, setting, etc. When non-ionic, it can can be chosen from various surface-active compounds described above for • As the agent can also be anionic, it is possible to use one or more of the following agents: alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, sulfates and/or sulfonates of fatty amines, acylated amino acids , e.g. sarcosine, sulfated or sulfonated animal or vegetable oils, products of esterification of fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, or sulfonated ethoxylated alkylaryl compounds. This list is provided as non-limiting examples only. Several surfactants can also be used together. Their concentration is generally about 5 to 30 g/l.

P, which stands for an alcohol, is one of the components in the color mixture. When this alcohol carries only one 0H function, its molecular weight should be low and in other words from C. to C,- and more particularly ethanol, propanol-1, propanol-2 or one of butanol-1, 2- or -3. However, poly-alcohols are also suitable, especially polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, etc. Several alcohols can be used together, but the total concentration of these components should be approximately 10 to 50 g/l or preferably 15 to 35 g/l.

Another component of the color mixture was previously denoted by G, and is in particular one or more fatty acids or alkali metal soaps of such acids. One of the special features of the invention lies in the fact that fixation of the toning is improved by the presence of fatty acid chains, i.e. carboxylic acids from Cg to and especially from ti-1 ci8" Various common fatty acids are particularly suitable, especially lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid , arachidic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ricinol acid etc. They can be used in one or more of the usual forms, i.e. in the form of natural glycerides, such as fat or oil, such as extracted from copra, saw palmetto, palm, cocoa butter, almond, olive, arachidin, colza, corn, sesame, sunflower, soy, grape seed, nut or other oils.

The corresponding soaps of sodium, potassium, ammonium, amines or alkanolamines can also be used, but in quantities such that the pH in the mixture is lower than 8.5.

In general, the total concentration of the fatty compound G in the color mixture is about 5 to 40 g/l, with preferred limits being from 15 to 30 g/l.

The preferred pH of the color mixture or suspension B is from 6 to 8.

E denotes various additives which can advantageously be incorporated into the color mixture to give it the appropriate consistency and viscosity. Such additives E are generally called thickeners. They are known in the art and are only mentioned here by way of non-limiting examples. Carboxyvinyl polymers, clays such as bentonites and montmorillonites, derivatives of cellulose, especially carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose, polysaccharides such as e.g. agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, dextrans, xanthenes, carob or guar gum resin, gum arabic or tragacanth gum, starch or its derivatives are examples.

One or more of these thickeners E can be used to give the color solution or suspension a suitable viscosity. When treating hair on the head, the most suitable viscosities are from 500 to 2500 cp and most preferably from 800 to 1500 cp (Brookfield Viscosimeter, Mobile 3 at 600 rpm). It should be noted that a particular advantage is obtained by the use of these thickeners which give the solution a semi-plastic character. The thixotropy of the liquid during processing of the color mixture for application allows the viscosity to be reduced considerably by simple stirring. The liquid will then resume its higher viscosity when stirring ceases and the mixture is applied as such to the hair. Such semi-plastic mixtures have viscosities from 4000 to 8000 cp at 6 rpm. (Brookfield Viscosimeter, Mobile 3).

C - The essential component C, i.e. the desired dye or dyes, is dissolved or dispersed in the described mixture B to achieve the desired color intensity. The invention uses in practice any of the natural dyes that can be used in the form of a pure substance isolated from plants or as a crude extract obtained from the plants or in the form of a powder or paste formed by dividing the parts of the plant that are rich in the dye in question. The mixture B can thus contain a powder of the roots, leaves or wood substance of e.g. crab root,

C is of course highly variable, depending on the nature of the dye, the intensity of the desired toning and the color capacity of the treated Phanera. This value is thus highly variable. In normal practice, concentrations are generally from 0.2 to 200 g/l and most often from 1 to 50 g/l.

The following table indicates the names of those

natural dye principles suitable for carrying out the invention. This table gives the official designation according to the Color Index, the commonly used designations of the corresponding plants as well as the dyes obtained from these plants. For this see the following table.

In a special embodiment of the invention, in difficult cases, especially when dyeing dark hair with white hair distributed therein, very good results are also achieved by adding one or more oxidizing compounds to the previous treatment solution A.

This embodiment consists in that one to the solution

A adds compounds with the property that they are oxidizing agents in an acidic medium, more particularly in the pH range from 3 to 7, while on the other hand the color solution or suspension may contain a compound that carries one or more ether functions and at least one alcohol function.

The oxidizing compounds added to the previous treatment solution can be of different types and can be inorganic or organic. They can be salts or persalts of alkali metal cations such as perchlorates, perborates, persulphates, permanganates, chlorates or bromates, or peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium peroxide or organic peroxides such as e.g. urea peroxide, benzoyl peroxide or ; succinyl peroxide. The concentration of the oxidizing agent can be from 2 to 30 g/l and is preferably from 5 to 15 g/l.

Compounds with one or more ether functions and at least one alcohol function correspond to the general formula:

wherein Z is a hydrogen atom, C. to C. alkyl, OH group or an R-OOC group, wherein R' is C. to C. alkyl, a

I lo hydroxyalkyl or glyceryl group, n being from 1 to 18 and m from 1 to 80, while R denotes a polyalkylene group which may be branched, especially -CR^CE^or

-CH-CH2-.

CH3

A special form of such an alcohol ether can be represented by the formula:

wherein R is a monohydric or polyhydric alcohol residue or a fatty acid ester of a polyol. R can thus be a residue of a C-. to C1Q monovalent or polyvalent alcohol,

-in lb

e.g. butyl-, pentyl-, hexyl-, caprine, laurine, decyl, myristicin, palmitin, stearin, cetyl, isostearin, olein, butanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, etc. It can also be made up of a glyceryl ester such as e.g. caprate, caprylate, laurate, myristate, oleate, cocoate, stearate, isostearate, etc.

R 2 is a residue of a polyhydric alcohol or a polyalkylene glycol, such as e.g. polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol in which the number of alkylene glycol units is generally from 3 to 80 and more particularly from 5 to 50.

The concentration of the compounds of formula I or II is generally in the range from 5 to 200 g/l and preferably from

Several non-limiting examples are given below to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES 1 to 5

Mixtures A for the pre-treatment of head hair or body hair

EXAMPLE 1

- 4.5 parts by weight of nonyl-phenol condensed with 6 moles of ethylene oxide;

Tp - 0.5 part polyoxyethylene glycol stearate with 40 mol

ethylene oxide + 1.2 part diethanolamide of copra oil;

M - 3.5 3 parts aluminum lactate;

R - sufficient amount of acetic acid to bring the solution to pH 3.5;

9.27 parts deionized water.

EXAMPLE 2

T 1 - 3 parts of octyl-phenol condensed with 6 mol (CH2) 20 +

2 parts of nonyl-phenol condensed with 12 moles of (CH2)20;

T2- 1 parts polyoxylene glycol stearate with 40 moles of ethylene oxide;

M - 5.16 parts potassium aluminum sulfate;

R - citric acid in the amount of deionized water to give

a total of 100 parts with pH 3.

EXAMPLE 3

- 5.2 parts of nonyl-phenol condensed with 10 mol of ethylene oxide;

T2- 0.8 parts polyoxyethylene stearate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide;

M - 2.28 parts aluminum hydrochloride in 50% aqueous

solution with Al/Cl ratio about 2;

R - tartaric acid to give pH 4 in 100 parts solution

prepared with deionized water.

EXAMPLE 4

- 5 parts of octyl-phenol with 11 moles of ethylene oxide;

T2- 0.4 parts polyoxyethylene glycol stearate with 30 parts (CH2)20 + 0.4 parts monoethanolamide of copra condensed with 10 moles (CH2)20;

M - 1.2 part crystallized aluminum hydrochloride +

0.57 part MgCl2.6H2O;

R - citric acid to pH 4;

deionized water in sufficient quantity for 100 parts solution.

EXAMPLE 5

T- - 3 parts of nonyl-phenol condensed with 10 mol

(CH2)20 + 2.5 parts of nonyl-phenol with 12 mol (CH^O;

T2- 0.8 part diethanolamide of copra oil;

M - 3.3 parts zinc acetate;

R - lactic acid to pH 3.5;

deionized water to 100 parts mixture.

EXAMPLES 6 to 10

Mixtures B for tinting

In these examples, the amounts of the components are given as % by weight of the solution formed with deionized water.

EXAMPLE 6

T- - 3.2 parts of nonyl-phenol condensed with 6 moles of ethylene oxide + 0.8 parts of sorbitan mono-oleate;

T. - 0.6 part dodecyl benzene sulphonate;

P - 1.7 parts of isopropanol;

G - 2.0 part stearic acid;

E - 1.0 part bentonite

0.26 part NaOH.

The bentonite is first moistened with isopropanol and then incorporated while stirring in part of the water to which the sodium hydroxide has been added. For the rest, the various surfactants are mixed with the rest of the water and stearic acid and then the whole mixture is incorporated into the part containing the bentonite.

EXAMPLE 7

T-. - 3.5 nonyl-phenol with 10 mol ethylene oxide;

T. - 0.9 lauric alcohol condensed with 2 3 mol

(Ct^^O + 0.7 polyoxyethylene stearate with 40 mol (CH 2 ) 2 O;

P - 1.5 isopropanol;

G - 1,7 linoleic acid;

E - 1.5 high viscosity sodium alginate.

In this preparation, the alginate is first mixed with the isopropanol and then added to part of the water while stirring. The surfactants and dyes are then mixed with the water and linoleic acid. The resulting mixture is then incorporated into the alginate solution. A Brookfield Viscosimeter, with Mobile 3, gives 2,500 cp at 6 rpm. and 8 50 cp at 60 rpm.

EXAMPLE 8

T3- 0.8 octyl-phenol with 6 (CH2)20

+ 3.0 nonyl-phenol with 10 (CH2)20;

T. - 0.7 copra-diethanolamide with 10 mol ethylene oxide +

1.0 triethanolamine lauryl sulfate;

P - 2.5 isopropanol;

G - 0.5 oleic acid + 2.5 olive oil;

E - 1.0 carboxymethyl cellulose with high viscosity

0.75 triethanolamine.

The thixotropic effect of the carboxymethyl cellulose is achieved by a method similar to that carried out for the sodium alginate in the previous example. The tinting solution obtained has a viscosity of 4000 cp at 6 rpm. and 840 cp at 60 rpm.

EXAMPLE 9

T3- 3.0 nonyl-phenol with 12 (CH2)20;

T4- 0.8 cetyl alcohol with 20 (CH2)20;

P - 2.0 isopropanol;

G - 2,2 sodium oleate;

E - 1.0 xanthan gum resin ("KELTROL R" from KELCO

Company).

During the preparation of this toning mixture, the xanthan gum resin is first moistened with the isopropanol and the resulting mixture is then incorporated into the water containing all the other ingredients. The viscosity is 5600 cp at 6 rpm. and 550 cp at 60 rpm.

EXAMPLES 10 to 17

Preparation of farkeblandinqs

EXAMPLE 10

On light auburn hair, apply mixture A no. 1 by gentle massaging for good distribution of the product.

After 5 min. Clean the hair with lukewarm water. Mixture B No. 6 is then applied to which 8 ml of a solution of horseradish extract in propylene glycol has been added.

After 30 min. Clean the hair with lukewarm water and then dry. The hair has a good clear copper-mahogany colour.

The treatment time for the toning operation can take place either in the open air or under a hood to avoid the feeling of coldness caused by evaporation of water.

EXAMPLE 11

In the procedure in example 10, mixture A no. 2 and mixture B no. 7 were used in sequence.

In the latter mixture was incorporated 5 ml of an aqueous alcoholic solution of curcuma extract.

The light chestnut colored hair took on a light golden color.

EXAMPLE 12

On auburn hair previously treated with mixture

A no. 4, mixture B no. 8 was deposited after dissolving 0.2 g of lawsone. After drying, the hair had a good mahogany color.

EXAMPLES 13 to 17

In these examples, the special embodiments in accordance with the invention were used with color extracts described in the preceding table, referring to the following table.

These extracts are incorporated directly into the corresponding B mixtures as shown in the following table.

EXAMPLE 18

Case of brown hair with white hairs distributed therein

Two portions of a previous treatment solution are prepared in accordance with example 4. To one of them is added 1.2 parts of sodium persulphate.

On the other hand, two portions of a tinting solution are prepared in accordance with example 9. To one of them are added 5 parts of a polyether obtained by the reaction of 1 mol of myridine alcohol, CH^ (CB^) .^OH mec^ ^ mo- 1- propylene oxide and 5 mol ethylene oxide. Into each of these two toning solutions was incorporated a mixture containing 0.5 g of campeachy wood extract and 1.5 g of redwood extract.

On half of the brown hair containing white hair, the above preparations which did not contain the additives were applied using the process described in example 1 and on the other half the preparations containing these additives were applied.

In the first case, an intense coffee-brown coloring was achieved. The difference between the brown and white hairs is clearly less visible than before the toning, but is not completely eliminated.

In the second case, an intense coffee brown is achieved again

Claims (13)

1. Process for dyeing Phanera with natural dyes using an aqueous solution or dispersion containing a surfactant, characterized in that it is carried out in two successive steps, the first of which consists in treating Phanera with a solution containing at least two non-ionic surfactant compounds of different chemical nature, and one or more metal salts or complexes, and without any dye, while the second step comprises applying to Phanera a solution or dispersion containing the natural dye(s), at least one non-ionic surfactant, a or more nonionic and/or anionic surfactants, an alcohol and a fatty compound. 2. Method as stated in claim 1, characterized in that the treatment in the first step is carried out in a medium with a pH not above 7 and preferably from 3 to 6, while the liquid used for the second step has a pH below 8.5 and preferably from 6 until 8. 3. Method as stated in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the solution or dispersion used in the second step contains a thickening agent so that its viscosity measured on a Brookfield Viscosimeter with Mobile No. 3 is approximately 500 to 2000 cp at 60 rev/ my. and preferably 800 to 1500 cp. 4. Method as specified in claim 3, characterized in that a or more thickeners and which make the solution or dispersion fixotropic and give it a viscosity preferably of 4000 to 8000 cp at 6 rpm. on the Brookfield Viscosimeter (Mobile No. 3). 5. Method as stated in claims 1-4, characterized in that the treatment in the first step is carried out for approximately 3 to 30 minutes. and in the second step for 10 to 60 min. 6. Method as stated in claims 1-5, characterized in that the first step is carried out with a solution without dye to which an oxidizing compound has been added in advance, while the dye solution or dispersion used in the second step contains a compound which carries one or more ether functions and at least one alcohol function. 7. Mixture for carrying out the first step in the method as set out in claims 1-6, comprising an aqueous solution of a wetting agent or detergent, characterized in that it also contains one or more polyalkylated alkylaryl surface-active compounds (T^ ), at least one further non-ionic surfactant compound (T2 ) without aryl groups, a non-toxic metal salt or complex (M), especially metals of groups II to V in the periodic table, as well as a sufficient amount of an organic acid (R) such that the pH in the mixture does not exceed 7 and is preferably from 3 to 6. 8. Mixture as specified in claim 7, characterized in that it per liter comprises 20 to 80 g of polyethoxylated alkylphenol (T^) R'-C6 H4 -0(CH2 CH2 0)n H wherein R' is C 1 to C2Q alkyl and n = 5 to 15, 5 to 30 g of a non- ionic non-phenolic surfactant (T2 ), 0.05 to 0.5 atom of a metal, preferably Al, in the form of a non-toxic salt (M) and a sufficient amount of an organic acid (R), especially C2 to aliphatic acid, for setting the pH of the mixture to a value of 3 to 6. 9. Mixture for carrying out the second step of the method as set forth in claims 1-6, comprising an aqueous solution or dispersion of a natural dye and at least one surface-active agent, characterized in that it contains one or more polyalkylated alkylaryl surface-active compounds (T ^ ), at least one additional nonionic nonaryl or anionic surfactant compound (T4 ), to Cj. alcohol (P) or a glycolic or glyceryl polyalcohol, a fatty compound (G), especially a Cg to Cp fatty acid or an ester or a sap of such an acid and preferably also an inorganic or organic thickener (E) preferably a clay, a cellulose derivative, polysaccharide, gum resin or starch, the pH of the mixture being from 6 to 8. 10. Mixture as specified in claim 9, characterized in that it contains per liter 1 to 200 g dye, characterized in that it also per liter contains 15 to 60 g of a polyethoxylated alkylphenol (T,), R'-C,H .-O(CHoCH_0) H where R' is C, to o O 4 Z Z Tl 1 C2Q alkyl and n 5 to 15, 0 to 30 g of a nonionic nonaryl or anionic surfactant compound (T^ ), especially a sulfate or sulfonate, 10 to 50 g of one to Cj . alcohol (P) of a glycolic or glyceryl polyol, 5 to 40 g of a fatty compound (G) consisting of a Cg to C22 fatty acid or an ester or sap of such an acid, and an amount of a thickening agent such that the mixture has a viscosity of 500 to 2500 cp on the Brookfield Viscosimeter at 60 rpm. with Mobile No. 3. 11. Mixture as stated in claim 10, characterized in that the thickening agent is a substance that provides thixotropy, in particular bentonite, Na-alginate, carboxymethyl cellulose or xanthan gum resin, to raise the viscosity of the mixture to a value of 4000 to 6000 cp at 6 revolutions ./my. (Brookfield Viscosimeter with Mobile No. 3). 12. Mixture as stated in claim 7 or 8, characterized in that it contains an oxidizing compound in an amount of 2 to 30 g per litres. 13. Mixture as stated in claims 9 - 11, characterized in that it contains a compound which carries one or more ether functions and at least one alcohol function in an amount of 5 to 200 g/l.