PL244324B1 - Oil-in-water eye cream - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the application is an oil-in-water eye cream, which consists of five components, three of which contain the following active ingredients: jojoba oil or oleyl erucan, glycerine extract from the bark of silky albicia and darutoside.

Description

The invention concerns an oil-in-water eye cream with anti-swelling properties and reducing bruises around the eyes.

5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one is a flavonoid found in various medicinal plants, e.g. Baikal skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis). It is also found in honey, propolis, passion fruit (Passiflora caerulea and Passiflora incarnata), the Oroxylum indicum plant, carrots (Daucus carota), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), many fruits, and in mushrooms such as the Pleurotus Dobrzeatus mushroom. It is obtained from various plants, such as blue passion flower (Passiflora caerulea). In vitro studies have shown that it acts as an aromatase inhibitor and can also stimulate steroidogenic processes. It is also credited with the ability to increase the sensitivity of Leydig cells to cAMP stimulation, which may translate into enhanced testosterone synthesis. It also has a wide range of health-promoting properties. It has anti-cancer potential and can increase the effectiveness of classic chemotherapy. Additionally, it helps reduce the activity of the NF-ke factor and lower the level of pro-inflammatory compounds, and thus reduces the intensity of inflammation in the body. It also seems to modulate GABA levels, and thus has a relaxing and antidepressant effect.

Supplements most often contain 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one extracted from passionflower flowers. It has gained the reputation of an effective, natural aromatase inhibitor. Due to its properties, it is often added to formulas aimed at limiting estrogen activity and to preparations aimed at increasing testosterone levels.

Infraorbital dark circles are caused by the accumulation of hemoglobin and its color by degradation products (biliverdin, bilirubin and iron compounds) in the dermis and epidermis. 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one stimulates the UGT1A1 enzyme, leading to the removal of bilirubin. N-hydroxysuccinimide causes iron compounds to be dissolved and eliminated.

The cosmetic properties of 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one have been disclosed in the patent descriptions: FR 2 869 229, FR 2 975 904. It is the main active ingredient of the cosmetic raw material called HALOXYL by SEDERMA. HALOXYL is a mixture of water, glycerin, methacrylate and acrylate copolymer, succinic acid, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one, palmitic acid tripeptide-1 and palmitic acid therapeptide-7.

Silky albizia (Albizia julibrissin) is a plant used in medicine and cosmetics. The bark of this plant is rich in ingredients such as saponins, terpenes, alkaloids and flavonoids. The main bioactive ingredients are triterpenoid saponins, e.g. -e-D-glucopyranosyl acid 3-O-[e-D-xylopyranosyl-(1^-2)-a-L-arabinopyranosyl-(1^6)-e-D-glucopyranosyl]-21- O-{(6S)-2-trans-2hydroxy -methyl-6-methyl-6-O-[4-O-((6S)-2-trans-2,6-dimethyl-6-O-(6-deoxy-e-D-glucopyranosyl)-2,7-octadienoyl )-6-deoxy-e-D-glucopyranosyl]-2,7-octadienoyl}-acacin acid (Libin Ma, Guangzhong Tu, Siping Chen, Ruyi Zhang, Luhua Lai, Xiaojie Xu, Youqi Tang, Carbohydrate Research, 281, 1996, 35- 46).

Darutoside is the main active ingredient of the divine herb plant (Sigesbeckia orientalis), a small shrub native to India and widely distributed in tropical and temperate parts of the world. The plant is used in traditional medicine to treat skin diseases and heal wounds. Studies have shown that this plant has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and wound-healing properties. A clinical study has shown that darutoside can alleviate inflammation by inhibiting inflammatory mediators by inhibiting MAPK and NF-kB-dependent pathways, as reported by Zhangfeng Zhong, Qianru Zhang, Hongxun Tao, Wei Sang, Liao Cui, Wenan Qiang, Wai San Cheang, Yuanjia Hu, Hua Yu, Yitao Wang, Chinese Medicine, 14, 35, 2019.

The cosmetic raw material called BEAUTIFEYE by SEDERMA contains albicia silk extract and darutoside. Composition according to INCI: glycerin, silky albicia bark extract, darutoside.

Californian simondsia fruit oil (Simmondsia chinensis) - jojoba oil, is a liquid wax with a high content of oleyl erucate. The oil has high oxidative stability and resistance to degradation. Jojoba oil is widely used in cosmetic products such as sunscreens and moisturizers. It has been shown to be effective in increasing the absorption of topical medications. The high content of wax esters makes jojoba oil beneficial for dermatoses with an altered skin barrier, such as seborrheic dermatitis, eczematous dermatitis, atopic dermatitis and acne. Jojoba oil also has proven anti-inflammatory effects and can be used in various skin diseases, including skin infections and skin aging, as known from the publications of Tzu-Kai Lin, Lily Zhong, Juan Luis Santiago, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2018, 19, 70. A synthetic substitute for jojoba oil is a raw material called Teraz Soft OER by EVONIC. This ingredient can be used as a replacement for jojoba oil. Composition of Ten Soft OER according to INCI: oleyl erucan.

The eye area is very sensitive to the type of active ingredients used in care products. Effective preparations that reduce swelling and bruising around the eyes are still being sought.

Surprisingly, it turned out that the eye cream according to the invention has a strong effect on reducing swelling and bruising around the eyes and has a synergistic effect in relation to its individual ingredients.

The cream consists of the following ingredients in amounts expressed in % by weight:

i) - Phase A caprylic-capric triglyceride 1.0-10.0 macadamia nut oil 1.0-10.0 jojoba oil or oleyl erucan 1.0-10.0 polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate 1.0-5, 0 cetearyl alcohol 1.0-5.0 glycerol stearate self-emulsifying 1.0-5.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.1-2.0 dimethicone (silicone oil) 0.5-5.0 isododecane 1.0-5.0 cross dimethicone polymer preservative 0.2-3.0 ii) - Phase B

70% solution of pantenl in water 0.1-5.0 glycerin 2-10 water up to 100.00 iii) - Phase C 0.1-5.0 water 61%, ethylhexyl stearate 27%, sodium hyaluronate cross polymer 4%, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/polyglycerol-4 sebacate 4%, sodium isostearate 4% iv) - Phase D 0.1-3.0 glycerin 15% methacrylate and acrylate copolymer 4%, N-hydroxysuccinimide 0.2%,

5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one 0.01%, palmitic acid tripeptide-1 0.01%, palmitic acid therapeptide-7 0.005% water to 100%

v) - Phase E, glycerin extract from the bark of albicia silky, darutoside, pH regulator

0.1-3.0

0.00075-0.0015 to pH 6.5

The cream may contain other substances that have a positive effect on skin regeneration and care. The content of each of the above substances is typically 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the cream additionally contains auxiliary substances. Type, quantity and nature of excipients used.

PL 244324 Β1

Examples of emollients include vegetable oils, esters of fatty acids and higher fatty alcohols, esters of higher fatty acids and short-chain alcohols.

Examples of humectants include glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea.

Examples of emulsifiers include self-emulsifying glycerol stearate, polyethoxylated fatty alcohol esters of glucose derivatives and higher fatty acids, cationic emulsifiers. Beeswax, higher fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures can be used as consistency-forming substances.

The cream according to the invention is prepared by methods known in the art. A more detailed description of raw materials and typical ingredients of the cosmetic base, as well as the principles of preparation of preparations, can be found in standard cosmetic technology textbooks. Examples include Flick E.W., Cosmetics ant Toiletry Formulations, William Andrew Publishing, 2001.

Example 1

Ingredient names are given as INCI names (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients) and trade names.

Compositions of complex raw materials, commercially available:

EL 8040 isododecane 90% dimethicone cross polymer 10%

HyaCare Filier water 61%, ethylhexyl stearate 27%, sodium hyaluronate cross polymer 4%, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/polyglycerol-4 sebacate 4%, sodium isostearate 4%

Haloxyl Water up to 100%, glycerin 15%, methacrylate and acrylate copolymer 4%, N-hydroxysuccinimide 0.2%, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one 0.01%, tripeptide- 1 palmitic acid 0.01%, palmitic acid therapeptide-7 0.005%

Beautyfeye glycerin 72.95%, silky albicia bark extract 27%, darutoside 0.05%

PL 244324 Β1

Example 2

A cream with the composition was produced

Ingredient trade name Chemical name Percentage [%] Phase A Myritol® 318 caprylic-capric triglyceride 4.00 Macadamia oil macadamia nut oil 1.00 Jojoba oil jojoba oil 6.00 This Care 450 polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate 2.00 Lanette 0 cetearyl alcohol 2.50 Cutina GSM S.E self-emulsifying glyceryl stearate 3.00 Vitamin E tocopheryl acetate 0.20 DC200 dimethicone 2.00 EL 8040 isododecane, a cross polymer of dimethicone 3.00 Paraben M methyl paraben 0.15 Paraben P propyl paraben 0.15 Phase B D-Panthenol 70% 70% panthenol solution 0.20 Glycerine glycerine 2.00 Purified Water water up to 100.00 Phase C HyaCare Filier water, ethylhexyl stearate, sodium hyaluronate cross polymer, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate polyglycerol-4, sodium isostearate 3.00 Phase D Haloxyl water, glycerin, methacrylate-acrylate copolymer, N-hydroxysuccinimide, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H1-benzopyran-4-one, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 1.50 Phase E Beautyfeye glycerine, silky albicia bark extract, darutoside 1.50 Phase F NaOH 30% sodium hydroxide to pH 6.5

PL 244324 Β1

Phase A and B are heated in separate vessels to 75°C. Phase A is added to Phase B and homogenized for 1 minute at the homogenizer speed of 10,000 RPM. The obtained emulsion is then cooled with constant stirring using a mechanical stirrer to a temperature below 40°C. Phase C, D and E are added to the obtained mixture successively. The obtained cream is cooled below 25°C with constant stirring using a mechanical mixer. If necessary, the pH of the cream is adjusted with a 20% NaOH solution to a pH of 6.3-6.5.

Example 3

Comparison of the effect of o/w eye cream containing 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1 -benzopyran-4-one, silky albicia extract, darutoside and jojoba oil - assessment of the reduction of swelling and bruising around the eyes.

Selection of probands - volunteers for research:

- The selection of volunteer probands was carried out by a dermatologist in accordance with the Helsinki Declaration of 1964 (with subsequent amendments), Polish and EU regulations, Cosmetics Europa guidelines, using inclusion and exclusion criteria.

The study involved 50 people who met the requirements for inclusion in the study and signed an informed consent to participate in the study. The skin at the site is normal, with no lesions. Subjects are informed not to use any antihistamines or pharmacological agents during this time that may affect the test results.

Each of the five groups of participants consisted of 10 people and used a composition as listed below for each group. After washing the facial skin with a standard cleansing fluid, the cream was applied. The procedure was performed twice daily for a month. No other facial care cosmetics were used during the study.

Ingredient name Group 1 Beautyfeye 1.5% Group 2 Haloxyl 1.5% Group 3 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Group 4 Jojoba oil 6% Group 5 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Jojoba oil 6% TEGO® Care 450 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Cutina GSM SE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lanetta O 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TEGOSOFT® M 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 Myritol® 318 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Glycerine 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Paraben M 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Paraben P 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

PL 244324 Β1

Assessment of swelling reduction

The effect on reducing swelling under the eyes was determined using the VISIA device, assessing the percentage reduction in the area of the skin affected by swelling.

Participant number in the group Swelling measurement Group 1 Beautyfeye 1.5% Group 2 Haloxyl 1.5% Group 3 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Group 4 Oil and both 6% Group 5 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Jojoba oil 6% 1. 2 3.5 5 3 10 2. 3 2.5 4 2 12 3. 2 4 4 4 8 4. 2.5 3 6 3 15 5. 4 3 4 3 12 6. 3 2 5 2 15 7. 2 4 5 3 10 8. 2 6 6 3 12 9. 3 2 5 4 15 10. 2 4 4 3 15 Mean 2.55 3.4 4.8 3.0 12.4

Assessment of the reduction of bruising around the eyes

The effect on reducing bruising under the eyes was determined using the VISIA device, assessing the percentage reduction in the area of the skin affected by the bruising.

Participant number in the group Measurement of reduction in bruising area Group 1 Beautyfeye 1.5% Group 2 Haloxyl 1.5% Group 3 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Group 4 Jojoba oil 6% Group 5 Beautyfeye 1.5% Haloxyl 1.5% Jojoba oil 6% 1. 3 4 6 0 15 2. 2 2 5 3 10 3. 3 2 3 2 12 4. 3 3 5 0 14 5. 3 4 6 2 15 6. 2 3 6 1 13 7. 4 2 4 1 15 8. 3 3 6 2 15 9. 5 3 4 3 15 10. 2 2 4 2 15 Mean 3.0 2.8 4.9 1.6 13.9

Claims (5)

1. Oil-in-water eye cream containing jojoba oil, characterized in that it consists of the following ingredients in amounts expressed in % by weight: i) - Phase A caprylic-capric triglyceride 1.0-10.0 macadamia nut oil 1.0-10.0 jojoba oil or oleyl erucan 1.0-10.0 polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate 1.0-5, 0 cetearyl alcohol 1.0-5.0 self-emulsifying glycerol stearate 1.0-5.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.1- 2.0 dimethicone (silicone oil) 0.5-5.0 isododecane 1.0-5.0 dimethicone cross polymer preservative 0.2- 3.0 ii) - Phase B 70% solution of pantenl in water 0.1-5.0 glycerin 2-10 water up to 100.00 iii) - Phase C 0.1-5.0 water 61%, ethylhexyl stearate 27%, sodium hyaluronate cross polymer 4%, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/polyglycerol-4 sebacate 4%, sodium isostearate 4% iv) - Phase D 0.1-3.0 glycerin 15% methacrylate and acrylate copolymer 4%, N-hydroxysuccinimide 0.2%, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one 0.01%, palmitic acid tripeptide-1 0.01%, palmitic acid therapeptide-7 0.005% water to 100% v) - Phase E, glycerin extract from the bark of albicia silky, darutoside, pH regulator 0.1-3.0 0.00075-0.0015 up to pH 6.5