PL248883B1 - Cosmetic composition containing an antioxidant - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the application is a cosmetic composition containing an antioxidant and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, characterized in that the antioxidant is honey in combination with betulin or birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85%.

Description

Description of the invention

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing an antioxidant.

Due to its high content of triterpene compounds, birch is one of the most commonly used plants in the treatment of skin diseases, infections and inflammations.

In this context, application EP3735274 A1 discloses a method for preparing a solid extract of birch bark that can be dispersed in a non-polar solvent to obtain a clinically beneficial oleogel, comprising the steps of (a) contacting birch bark with a suitable solvent to produce an extraction solution comprising betulin and at least one triterpene; (b) separating birch bark from the extraction solution; (c) cooling the extraction solution to crystallize part of the betulin and triterpene from the solution; (d) separating the crystallized betulin and triterpene; (e) drying the separated, crystallized betulin and triterpene to obtain a solid extract of birch bark. Wherein, the provided solid birch bark extract comprises at least about 70% by weight of betulin and one or more triterpenes selected from the group consisting of betulinic acid, oleanolic acid, erythrodiol, and lupeol. The solid birch bark extracts described herein can be formulated in an oleogel that has clinically favorable rheological properties. In particular, an oleogel comprising 1-20% by weight of a solid birch extract having a particle size of less than about 50 pm dispersed in 80-99% by weight of one or more non-polar fluids is described.

Birch is rich in triterpene compounds, which have beneficial effects on skin. They have antioxidant properties, regulate melanogenesis, and exhibit antimicrobial and immunostimulating properties. Furthermore, they stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and inhibit allergic and inflammatory skin reactions, making them beneficial components of anti-inflammatory compositions. This multifaceted effect makes birch a natural source of valuable ingredients used in medicinal and cosmetic products.

For example, document CN103784382 A discloses a multi-component composition of an anti-aging and whitening facial mask, which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 180-260 parts of birch sap, 8-20 parts of powdered sodium bicarbonate, 20-48 parts of honey, 80-140 parts of strawberry juice, 100-180 parts of milk and an appropriate amount of flour weighed according to requirements, wherein the birch sap is obtained by cutting birch leaves, adding powdered sodium bicarbonate, grinding in the sap, keeping the sap at a temperature of 50-70°C for 1-3 hours and filtering with gauze.

Document RU2105539 C1 discloses a multi-ingredient face and body balm containing 15-20% natural honey; 0.5-0.8% honeycomb wax extract; 15-20% ethyl alcohol; matriarch, calendula, sage, mint, rosemary, water lily, lavender, lemon balm, St. John's wort, birch buds, oak bark, each 0.1-5%; and distilled water. The balm simultaneously exhibits cleansing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic properties.

Document RU2190999, on the other hand, applies to cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory properties and is intended for users with skin prone to inflammation, acne, and pustules. The cosmetic contains 4.5-5.5% beeswax, 9.0-11.0% purified mumio, 2.7-3.3% propolis, 27.0-33.0% purified fish oil, 1.8-2.2% birch tar, and 9.0-11.0% anhydrous lanolin.

Sądecki Honeydew Honey contains vitamins including C, A, PP, B2, B6, and B2, as well as minerals such as magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, molybdenum, calcium, iron, and silicon. Their exact amounts, like all other properties of this honey, depend on the specific harvest. One of the most valuable properties of honey is its antioxidant properties, provided by carotenoids, organic acids (e.g., citric acid), amino acids (e.g., proline), enzymes (catalase, glucoxidase), vitamins C and E, and polyphenols (phenolic acids—dominant over the latter group, including vanillic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, and flavonoids—including kaempferol, quercetin, and chrysin). As research indicates, polyphenols play the most important role in shaping the protection against oxidative stress (Aljadi A .M., Kamaruddin M.Y., 2004. Evaluation of the phenolic contents and antioxidant capacities of two Malaysian floral honeys. Food Chem. 85: 513-518; Ahmed S., Sulaiman A.S., Baig A.A., Ibrahim M., Liagat S., Fatima S., Jabeen S., Shamim N., Othman N.H., 2018. Honey as a Potential Natural Antioxidant Medicine: An Insight into Its Molecular Mechanisms of Action. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 18: 8367846). The content of phenolic compounds in honey ranges from 0.01 to several dozen mg/kg of honey (Dmowski P., Wilczyńska A., 2015. The effect of honey addition on the antioxidant properties of black tea infusions. Probl Hig Epidemiol. 96(3): 688-692). This honey contains 26 amino acids, which constitute from 0.1% to 1% of the total. Proline predominates, accounting for approximately 50-85% of all amino acids. The content of the remaining 25 amino acids and their relative proportions (the so-called amino acid profile) depend on the honey's origin (nectar or honeydew). However, most quality honeys are characterized by a high content of phenylalanine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid.

The aim of the invention is to provide new natural anti-aging cosmetic compositions.

The essence of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing an antioxidant agent and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, characterized in that the antioxidant agent is honey in combination with betulin or birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85%.

Preferably, the composition contains honey in an amount of 0.5-5% by weight and standardized birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85% in an amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight or betulin in an amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight.

Preferably, the TAA activity of the composition of the invention is >90%, preferably above >92%.

Preferably, the honey is Sądecki honeydew honey with a mineral content of >1% and a free amino acid content of 0.1 to 1% by weight.

Preferably the composition is a scrub, soap, body lotion, face mask.

Preferably, the composition of the invention consists of:

capric triglyceride in the amount of 4-6% by weight;

safflower oil in the amount of 4-8% by weight;

sweet almond oil in the amount of 2-5 wt.;

apricot kernel oil in the amount of 2-5% by weight;

carrot oil in the amount of 2-5% by weight;

propanediol in the amount of 1-4% by weight;

gelling agent in the amount of 20-25% by weight;

betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with a betulin content >85% in an amount of 0.250.5% by weight;

sugar in the amount of 50-60% by weight;

honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight;

bee pollen in the amount of 2-4% by weight;

orange oil in the amount of 1-2% by weight;

vitamin E in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight;

fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight

Preferably, the composition of the invention consists of:

coconut oil in the amount of 60-70% by weight;

carrot oil in the amount of 5-10% by weight;

betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in an amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight;

water in the amount of 12-17% by weight;

sodium hydroxide in the amount of 6-10% by weight;

sodium lauryl sarcosinate in the amount of 1.5-3% by weight;

honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight;

bee pollen in the amount of 1-2% by weight;

orange oil in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight;

fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight

Preferably, the composition of the invention consists of:

emulsifying base in the amount of 5-10% by weight;

at least one emollient in an amount of 20-25% by weight;

aloe juice in the amount of 8-12% by weight; honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight;

betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in the amount of 0.25-0.5%;

at least one preservative in the amount of 1-4% by weight;

at least one fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight;

water in an amount of up to 100%.

Preferably, the composition of the invention consists of:

emulsifying base in an amount of 3-5% by weight, preferably 4.5% by weight;

at least one emollient in an amount of 20-25% by weight;

betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in an amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight;

emulsifier in the amount of 2.5-5% by weight;

at least one preservative in the amount of 0.5-3% by weight;

honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight;

gelling agent in the amount of 0.8-2% by weight;

aloe juice in the amount of 9-15% by weight;

at least one fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight;

water up to 100%;

The invention provides the following advantages:

• The synergistic effect of honey and betulin or honey and birch bark extract with a betulin content of > 85% by weight ensures effective antioxidant properties of the composition according to the invention, the value of which is total antioxidant activity (ATT) > 92%;

• The high antioxidant activity of the composition according to the invention provides effective protection against oxidation of skin structures, which results in delaying the skin aging process;

• Betulin contained in the composition according to the invention (in free form or as an extract) regenerates the skin and, due to its antioxidant properties, slows down the signs of skin aging. Honey, on the other hand, due to its content of simple sugars (glucose, fructose), mineral salts, enzymes, and flavonoids, moisturizes and nourishes the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory and disinfectant properties;

• The honey used is Sądecki honeydew honey with unique properties, i.e. mineral content of >1%, free amino acid content of 0.1 to 1% and high content of compounds inhibiting the growth of microorganisms, which translates into its improved properties.

The invention is presented in the following examples, which are illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. The scope of the invention is limited only by the claims.

Example 1

Method for producing birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight

The birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85% by weight contained in the composition according to the invention was obtained by alcohol extraction using ethanol as the eluent.

In this embodiment, the solvent was evaporated in a vacuum evaporator.

The process efficiency was 33.3%. The obtained extract contained 0.129 mg/ml of betulin.

The dry extract obtained after solvent evaporation was subjected to physicochemical properties, and quantitative and qualitative analysis (for betulin content) was performed using liquid chromatography (HPLC). Antioxidant activity was assessed using the DPPH stable radical reduction method. The irritancy potential of the extract was assessed in vitro using the colorimetric method (MTT) using the reconstructed EpiDerm® epidermal model (MatTek Corporation).

Chromatographic analysis

The analysis was performed using an Agilent 1100 series HPLC liquid chromatograph with a UV detector, on a ThermoScientific ODS Hypersil 250 x 4.6 (5 µm) column, using a gradient program: 0-5 min 80% acetonitrile (ACN), 20% water (H2O) with 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid (TFA), 5-12 min 100% ACN, 12-27 min 100% ACN, 100 microliter injection. The flow rate was 1 ml/min.

The extract was analyzed for its triterpene fraction (betulin, betulinic acid, and lupeol). Birch extract samples were identified to contain three main triterpenes: betulin, betulinic acid, and lupeol. Table 1 presents the percentage of individual triterpenes, determined based on peak areas in the chromatogram. Measurements were taken at a wavelength of 210 nm.

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Table 1

The composition of the obtained ethanol extract from birch bark

Name of the substance [Content |%] Bctulina 86.16 Betulinic acid 2.07 lupeol 0.92 Other compounds 10.85

Assessment of irritation potential

To determine the safety of birch extract in cosmetics, a method for determining irritation potential was used using the Epiderm human skin model, which contains a multilayered, differentiated epidermis. This method evaluates the exposure time required to reduce the number of viable cells by 50% (ET50). This reduction is assessed by measuring the reduction of MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiaz-2-yl)-2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide). Mitochondrial metabolism produces formazan, a blue-violet dye. Formation of formazan allows for the assessment of the number of damaged cells. A chemical is classified as irritating if cell viability is less than 50% compared to a negative sample (containing a neutral solvent).

The study involved applying an appropriate amount of a solution of the test compound to the surface of the epidermal model. Solutions of the obtained birch extract were prepared at concentrations of 0.25% and 0.5% by weight.

The procedure for measuring the potential irritation potential was performed in accordance with the ECVAM SOP (Standard Operation Protocol) (OECD Guideline For The Testing Of Chemicals. Test No. 439: In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method, available online: http://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/test-no-439-in-vitro-skin-irritation-reconstructed-human-epidermis-test-method_9789264242845-en, online access: 18/10/2022). A positive control (5% SLS) and a negative control, which was phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), were also tested simultaneously with the tested extract solutions. Three measurements were performed for each tested sample. Cell viability assessments were compared against the negative control. The results are presented in Table 2.

Table 2

Cell viability in a reconstructed epidermal model treated with birch bark extract solution:

Tested ingredient Relative cell viability [%] Result: irritant/non-irritating 0.25% solution of birch bark extract 86.20 non-irritating 0.5% birch bark extract solution 90.02 non-irritating Positive control (5% SLS*) 6.03 irritating Negative control (phosphate buffer pH 7.4) 100.00 non-irritating

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Based on the obtained results (spectrophotometric measurements of the optical density of the tested solutions), it was found that the degree of cell survival after incubation in the solutions of the tested compounds is very high and reaches the order of 86-90%.

The solution is considered irritating when cell viability in relation to the phosphate buffer is less than 50%.

The obtained values allow us to conclude that none of the tested birch bark extract solutions exhibited any irritating effect on epidermal cells. Therefore, they can be safely used as active ingredients in cosmetic preparations.

Example 2

Analysis of the antioxidant properties of the antioxidant agent of the composition according to the invention

The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains an antioxidant agent which is honey in combination with betulin or birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85%.

Total antioxidant activity (TAA) was determined using a modified Brand-Williams method using the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) radical. Analysis of the sample's antioxidant activity involves neutralization of the colored radical to colorless compounds. The color change is proportional to the antioxidant content and activity in the sample. Quantitatively, the degree of discoloration of the reagent solution is measured spectrophotometrically at a wavelength of 515 nm. Absorbance measurements were performed using a Macherey Nagel Nanocolor UVA/IS spectrophotometer. The measurement temperature was 20°C. Three determinations were performed for the test samples (the result is the average of three measurements). The total antioxidant activity of the product was expressed as the percentage of DPPH radical inhibition compared to the reference sample.

Table 3 presents the results of the assessment of total antioxidant activity for birch extract with betulin content >85% and extract concentration of 0.25% and 0.5%, as well as for 5% by weight of pure honey solution, which was Sądecki honeydew honey.

Table 3

Total antioxidant activity of birch extract and honey (n = 3, SD+/-)

Active substance (concentration in solution) TAA value [% inhibition of oxidation processes] Standard deviation Birch extract (0.25%) 85.82 0.31 Birch extract (0.5%) 89.94 0.81 Honey (5%) 19.55 2.26 Birch extract 0.5% + honey 5% 92.05 0.15

Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that the tested birch bark extract demonstrates a very high total antioxidant activity, meaning it is effective in neutralizing free radicals and reactive oxygen species. The ATT for a pure honey solution is almost 20%, while the combination of both components allows for higher efficacy (92.05%) in neutralizing free radicals.

This is a very high value of antioxidant activity, providing effective protection against oxidation of skin structures, which results in delaying the skin aging process.

Example 3

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a peeling containing birch extract according to example 1 in an amount of 0.25% by weight and honey in an amount of 3% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with the standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the peeling is presented in Table 4.

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Table 4

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the energizing honey-betulin peeling

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] (A) Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 4 Safflower oil 5 Sweet almond oil 2.75 Apricot kernel oil 3 Carrot oil 2.5 propane ediol 1 Birch extract (Betula alba) according to example 1 0.25 (B) Emulsifier e.g. SUCRAGEL® CF containing glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water, and sucrose laurate 20 (C) Cane sugar 53 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 3 Bee pollen 2 Orange oil 2 Vitamin E 1 Fragrance additive 0.5

Technological process:

To prepare the composition shown in Table 4, first weigh and heat the components of phase (A) to 70°C while stirring (high-speed mechanical mixer) to dissolve the birch extract. Phase (B) component Sucragel AOF (gelling agent for oil formulations) should also be heated to 80°C, and then approximately 1% of the oil phase (A) with the dissolved active ingredient should be added dropwise, while stirring continuously at 700 rpm/min. Then, increase the speed to 900 rpm/min and add the rest of phase (A) in small portions. Mix until the temperature reaches 25°C, reducing the mixer speed to 200-300 rpm/min. While continuing mixing, add the components of phase (C) to the resulting system (Phase A+B).

Example 4

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a peeling containing betulin in an amount of 0.2% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the peeling is presented in Table 5. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 3.

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Table 5

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the energizing honey-betulin peeling

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] (A) Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 6 Safflower oil 4 Sweet almond oil 2.3 Apricot kernel oil 2 Carrot oil 2 propanediol 4 betulin 0.2 (B) Emulsifier e.g. SUCRAGEL® CF containing glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water, and sucrose laurate 25 (C) Cane sugar 50 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5 Bee pollen 2 Orange oil 1 Vitamin E 0.5 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 5

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a peeling containing betulin in an amount of 0.4% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the peeling is presented in Table 6. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 3.

Table 6

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the energizing honey-betulin peeling

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] (A) Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 4 Safflower oil 4 Sweet almond oil 2 Apricot kernel oil 2

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Carrot oil 2 propanediol 1 betu lina 0.4 (B) Emulsifier e.g. SUCRAGEL® CF containing glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water, and sucrose laurate 20 (C) Cane sugar 60 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5 Bee pollen 2.1 Orange oil 1 Vitamin E 0.5 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 6

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a peeling containing betulin in an amount of 0.4% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the peeling is presented in Table 7. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 3.

Table 7

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the energizing honey-betulin peeling

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] (A) Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 4 Safflower oil 5 Sweet almond oil 5 Apricot kernel oil 5 Carrot oil 5 propanediol 1 betulin 0.4 (B) Emulsifier e.g. SUCRAGEL® CF containing glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water, and sucrose laurate 20 (C) Cane sugar 50 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5 Bee pollen 2.1

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Orange oil 1 Vitamin E 0.5 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 7

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a peeling containing betulin in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 2.1% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the peeling is presented in Table 8. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 3.

Table 8

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the energizing honey-betulin peeling

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] (A) Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 4 Safflower oil 8 Sweet almond oil 2 Apricot kernel oil 2 Carrot oil 2 propanediol 1 betulin 0.5 (B) Emulsifier e.g. SUCRAGEL® CF containing glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, water, and sucrose laurate 20 (C) Cane sugar 50 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 2.1 Bee pollen 4 Orange oil 2 Vitamin E 1 Fragrance additive 1.4

Example 8

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a honey-betulin soap containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.25% by weight and honey in an amount of 2% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with the standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the soap is presented in Table 9.

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Table 9

Qualitative and quantitative composition of honey-betulin soap

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] A) Refined coconut oil 65 Carrot oil 5.5 Birch extract according to example 1 0.25 (B) Demineralized water 15 Sodium hydroxide (granules) 8 (C) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS) 1.5 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 2 Bee pollen 1.25 Orange oil 1 Fragrance additive 0.5

Technological process:

To prepare the composition shown in Table 5, first heat phase (A) to 65-70°C and mix for approximately 20-30 minutes at 200 rpm to dissolve the birch extract. Then, cool the system to T = 45°C and pour in the previously prepared NaOH solution (phase B) in a stream, increasing the speed to 700 rpm. Continue saponification for 30 minutes until a thick, "pudding-like" consistency is achieved. Then, add the surfactant and the remaining components of phase (C) (without pollen) and continue mixing for approximately 5 minutes (without heating). Add the bee pollen to the still warm mass and pour the mass into a mold. The soap transforms from a gel (transparent) phase into an opaque mass and hardens.

Example 9

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a honey-betulin soap containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining components of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with the standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The soap composition is presented in Table 10. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 8.

Table 10

Qualitative and quantitative composition of honey-betulin soap

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w] A) Refined coconut oil 60 Carrot oil 10 Birch extract in ^r according to example 1 0.5

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(B) Demineralized water 12 Sodium hydroxide (granules) 10 (C) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS) 3 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5 Bee pollen 2 Orange oil 0.5 Fragrance additive 1.5

Example 10

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a honey-betulin soap containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining components of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with the standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The soap composition is presented in Table 11. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 8.

Table 11

Qualitative and quantitative composition of honey-betulin soap

Phase Ingredient Composition [% w/w| A) Refined coconut oil 70 Carrot oil 5 Birch extract according to example 1 0.5 (B) Demineralized water 12 Sodium hydroxide (granules) 6 (C) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS) 3 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5 Bee pollen 2 Orange oil 0.5 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 11

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a honey-betulin soap containing 0.4% wt. of betulin and 5% wt. of honey. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fatty base components, and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers, and preservatives, in accordance with standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The soap composition is presented in Table 12. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 8.

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Table 12

Qualitative and quantitative composition of honey-betulin soap

Phase A) Ingredient Composition [% w/w] Refined coconut oil 60 Carrot oil 5 betulin 0.4 (B) Mineralized water 17 Sodium hydroxide (granules) 7.5 (Oh Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS) 3 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 5 Bee pollen 1 Orange oil 0.6 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 12

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a honey-betulin soap containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining components of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers, wax-fat base components and auxiliary raw materials: humectants, rheology modifiers and preservatives, in accordance with the standards for natural cosmetics (COSMOS standards, ISO-16128-1-2016 and ISO-16128-2-2017). The composition of the soap is presented in Table 13. The composition was produced in a technological process carried out analogously to the technological process presented in Example 8.

Table 13

Qualitative and quantitative composition of honey-betulin soap

Phase A) Ingredient Composition [% w/w| Refined coconut oil 66.25 Carrot oil 5.5 Birch extract according to example 1 0.5 (B) Demineralized water 15 Sodium hydroxide (granules) 8 (C) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS) 1.5 Honey (Sądecki honeydew honey) 0.5

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Bee pollen 1.25 Orange oil 1 Fragrance additive 0.5

Example 13

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a balm containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E and F, phytosterols and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E and B, trace elements and plant sterols). The composition of the balm is presented in Table 14.

Table 14

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic body lotion recipe

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying biobase containing glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl lactylate A mild, plant-derived emulsifying base for producing oil-in-water emulsions. It is formulated to mimic the skin's lipid layer. 8 Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 5 emollient e.g. Crodamol containing decyl isostearate (and) isosteayl isostearate emollient 5 Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizing, regenerating, soothing, natural UV filter 10 Birch extract according to example 1 active ingredient 0.5 B Distilled water solvent Up to 100 Aloe Vera Juice A skin-moisturizing substance that soothes irritations and has anti-inflammatory properties. 10 Honey Active ingredient 5

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Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 2 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.5 c Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic. Toning 0.5 Fragrance additive Fragrance 0.5%

Technological process:

To prepare the composition shown in Table 7, weigh the components of phases A and B into two separate beakers and heat to a minimum temperature of 70°C. At this temperature, add birch extract, which should dissolve in the oil phase (A). Then add the aqueous phase (B) to the oil phase and mix using a mechanical stirrer, V = 250 rpm for 10-15 min, then continue mixing (v = 300 rpm) without heating until the mixture cools to T = 40°C. In the next step, add orange oil and a few drops of fragrance (phase C). Continue mixing until room temperature is reached and the product has a thick, creamy consistency.

Example 14

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a balm containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.25% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.55% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E and F, phytosterols and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E and B, microelements and plant sterols). The composition of the balm is presented in Table 15. The technological process was carried out as in Example 13.

Table 15

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic body lotion recipe

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying biobase containing glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl lactylate A mild emulsifying base of plant origin for the production of oil-in-water emulsions. Formulated to mimic the skin's lipid layer. 5 Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 7 emollient e.g. Crodamol containing decyl isostearate (and) isostearyl isostearate emollient 7

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Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizing, regenerating, soothing, natural UV filter 11 Birch extract according to example 1 active ingredient 0.25 B Distilled water solvent Up to 100 Aloe Vera Juice A skin-moisturizing substance that soothes irritations and has anti-inflammatory properties. 12 Honey Active ingredient 0.5 Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 3 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.5 C Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic. Toning 0.5 Fragrance additive Fragrance 1.5%

Example 15

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a balm containing betulin in an amount of 0.2% by weight and honey in an amount of 5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E, and F, phytosterols, and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E, and B vitamins, trace elements, and plant sterols). The composition of the balm is presented in Table 16. The technological process was carried out as in Example 13.

Table 16

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic body lotion recipe

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying biobase containing glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium stearoyl lactylate A mild, plant-derived emulsifying base for producing oil-in-water emulsions. Formulated to mimic the skin's lipid layer. 10

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Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 5 emollient e.g. Crodamol containing decyl isostearate (and) isostearyl isostearate emollient 5 Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizes, regenerates, soothes irritations, natural UV filter 10 betulin active ingredient 0.2 B Distilled water solvent Up to 100 Aloe Vera Juice A skin-moisturizing substance that soothes irritations and has anti-inflammatory properties. 8 Honey Active ingredient 5 Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 2 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.5 C Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic. Toning 0.5 Fragrance additive Fragrance 0.5%

Example 16

Composition as in example 13, except that betulin is added instead of birch extract.

Example 17

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a face mask containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.5% by weight and honey in an amount of 5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E and F, phytosterols and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe vera juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E and B, trace elements and plant sterols). The composition of the face mask is presented in Table 17.

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Table 17

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic face mask

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying base, e.g. Natragem EW/Croda containing glyceryl stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 palmitate/succinate (and) cetearyl alcohol Emulsifying base 4.5 Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 10 Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizing, regenerating, soothes irritations, natural UV filter 10 Birch extract according to example 1 Active ingredient 0.5 B Distilled water Solvent up to 100 O/W emulsifier, e.g. Arlacel 2121/ Croda containing sorbitan stearate and sorbitan stearate Oil/Water Emulsifier 2.5 Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 2 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.5 C Water Solvent 30 Aloe Vera Juice A substance that moisturizes the skin, soothes irritations, and has anti-inflammatory properties. 10 Honey Active ingredient 5 Sodium hyaluronate 1-1.5 MDa Gelling agent 1 D Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, toning 0.5 Fragrance additive fragrance 0.5%

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Technological process:

The day before the emulsification process, sodium hyaluronate should be dispersed in water until it swells and forms a transparent gel. The next day, the remaining ingredients of phase C (aloe juice and honey) can be added to the gel and mixed (the gel can be heated to 40-50°C for this purpose). Weigh the ingredients of phases A and B into two separate beakers and heat to a minimum temperature of 70°C. At this temperature, the birch extract should dissolve in the oil phase (A). Then, add the water phase to the oil phase and mix with a mechanical stirrer at 250 rpm for 10-15 minutes. Then, remove from the water bath and continue mixing at 300 rpm. Combine the emulsion (A + B) with the gel (C) at a temperature < 50°C, stirring constantly (V = 300 rpm), and at a temperature < 40°C add phase D (orange oil and a few drops of fragrance) until the balm has a thick creamy consistency and has reached room temperature.

Example 18

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a face mask containing birch extract according to Example 1 in an amount of 0.25% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E, and F, phytosterols, and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe vera juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E, and B vitamins, trace elements, and plant sterols). The composition of the face mask is presented in Table 18. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 17.

Table 18

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic face mask

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying base, e.g., Natragem EW/Croda containing glyceryl stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 palmitate/succinate (and) cetyl alcohol Emulsifying base 3 Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 10 Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizing, regenerating, soothing, natural UV filter 15 Birch extract according to example 1 Active ingredient 0.25 B Distilled water Solvent up to 100% O/W emulsifier, e.g. Arlacel 2121/ Croda containing sorbitan stearate and sorbitan stearate Oil/Water Emulsifier 5

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Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 2.5 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.5 c Water Solvent 30 Aloe Vera Juice A substance that moisturizes the skin, soothes irritations, and has anti-inflammatory properties. 9 Honey Active ingredient 0.5 Sodium hyaturonate 1-1.5 MDa Gelling agent 2 D Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, toning 0.25 Fragrance additive fragrance 0.25

Example 19

In this example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a face mask containing betulin in an amount of 0.2% by weight and honey in an amount of 0.5% by weight. The remaining ingredients of the composition were selected from the group of emulsifiers based on raw materials of natural origin, emollients: shea butter (source of fatty acids: oleic, stearic, linoleic, vitamins A, E, and F, phytosterols, and polyphenols) and apricot kernel oil (containing unsaturated fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acid), as well as aloe vera juice (source of, among others, polysaccharides, amino acids, plant enzymes, vitamins A, C, E, and B vitamins, trace elements, and plant sterols). The composition of the face mask is presented in Table 19. The technological process was carried out analogously to Example 17.

Table 19

Qualitative and quantitative composition of the basic face mask

Phase Ingredient Role Concentration [% w/w] A Emulsifying base, e.g., Natragem EW/Croda containing glyceryl stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 palmitate/succinate (and) cetearyl alcohol Emulsifying base 5 Apricot kernel oil An emollient with moisturizing and smoothing properties. 10 Shea Butter Emollient, moisturizing, regenerating, soothing, natural UV filter 10 betulin Active ingredient 0.2

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B Distilled water Solvent up to 100% O/w emulsifier, e.g. Arlacei 2121/ Croda containing sorbitan stearate and Sorbitan Stearate Oil/Water Emulsifier 5 Preservative, e.g. Dermosoft 1388/Evonik Containing water, glycerin, sodium levulinate (and) sodium anise preservative 0.25 Sodium benzoate preservative 0.25 C Water Solvent 30 Aloe Vera Juice A substance that moisturizes the skin, soothes irritations, and has anti-inflammatory properties. 15 Honey Active ingredient 0.5 Sodium hyaluronate 1-1.5 MDa Gelling agent 0.8 D Orange oil Fragrance, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, toning 0.5 Fragrance additive fragrance 0.5

Example 20

Composition as in example 19, but containing 0.4% by weight of betulin.

Claims (9)

Patent claims 1. A cosmetic composition comprising an antioxidant and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, characterized in that the antioxidant is honey in combination with betulin or a birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85%. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight and standardized birch bark extract with a betulin content of >85% in the amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight or betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that its TAA activity is >90%, preferably above >92%. 4. Composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the honey is Sądecki honeydew honey with a mineral content of >1%, a free amino acid content of 0.1 to 1% by weight. 5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a scrub, a soap, a body lotion, a face mask. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it consists of: capric triglyceride in an amount of 4-6% by weight; safflower oil in the amount of 4-8% by weight; sweet almond oil in the amount of 2-5 wt.; apricot kernel oil in the amount of 2-5% by weight; carrot oil in the amount of 2-5% by weight; propanediol in the amount of 1-4% by weight; gelling agent in the amount of 20-25% by weight; betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content >85% in an amount of 0.25-5% by weight; sugar in the amount of 50-60% by weight; honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight; bee pollen in the amount of 2-4% by weight; orange oil in the amount of 1-2% by weight; vitamin E in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight; fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it consists of: coconut oil in the amount of 60-70% by weight; carrot oil in the amount of 5-10% by weight; betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in the amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight; water in the amount of 12-17% by weight; sodium hydroxide in the amount of 6-10% by weight; sodium lauryl sarcosinate in the amount of 1.5-3% by weight; honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight; bee pollen in the amount of 1-2% by weight; orange oil in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight; fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it consists of: an emulsifying base in an amount of 5-10% by weight; at least one emollient in an amount of 20-25% by weight; aloe juice in the amount of 8-12% by weight; honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight; betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in the amount of 0.25-0.5%; at least one preservative in the amount of 1-4% by weight; at least one fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1.5% by weight; water in the amount of up to 100%. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it consists of: emulsifying base in an amount of 3-5% by weight, preferably 4.5% by weight; at least one emollient in an amount of 20-25% by weight; betulin in the amount of 0.2-0.4% by weight. or birch bark extract with betulin content > 85% by weight. in the amount of 0.25-0.5% by weight; emulsifier in the amount of 2.5-5% by weight; at least one preservative in the amount of 0.5-3% by weight; honey in the amount of 0.5-5% by weight; gelling agent in the amount of 0.8-2% by weight; aloe juice in the amount of 9-15% by weight; at least one fragrance additive in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight; water in an amount of up to 100%.