TW201938133A - Solid W/O cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid W / O stabilizing composition comprising a gelling system, comprising: at least one hydrophobic gelling agent and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and comprising at least one having an HLB value of 14 or less Surfactant emulsifying system. Furthermore, the present invention discloses a method for treating a keratinous surface with the composition of the present invention.

Description

   Solid W / O cosmetic composition        [Related applications]    

This application claims priority from United States Provisional Application No. 62 / 627,454, filed on February 7, 2018, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to the improvement of solid W / O cosmetic compositions, in particular, compositions containing aqueous and gelling systems.

Many currently available solid cosmetics (skin products and color cosmetics) have been designed to improve the physical properties (e.g., hardness, texture) of cosmetics, as well as the overall experience of consumers in using cosmetics. In general, in order to generate and maintain the solid structure of cosmetics, high levels of cured waxes (e.g., total composition weight exceeds 15%) and powders / fillers (e.g., total composition weight exceeds 20%) have been used, and their products typically Does not contain water. Unfortunately, for consumers, high levels of waxes and / or powders make the finished product very hard and sticky, and produce a drying effect on the skin. Its application appears rigid and uneven, resulting in an unattractive appearance.

In order to improve the moisturizing effect, certain solid cosmetics contain high amounts of water and humectants, which are in the form of liquid or gel (e.g., lip gloss, lip gel, lip lines, lip gloss oil, eyeliner, gel cream, etc.) . Generally, water-based products contain dyes for color appearance and long-lasting effects, which unfortunately leads to long-term staining of the skin for consumers. These stains are difficult to remove and can irritate and dry the skin. There are also known water-soluble sticks; however, they contain small amounts of water without pigments or large amounts of water but are not stable (for example, sweating / sweating at higher temperatures over time, producing an unpleasant odor).

The industry still has a solid cosmetic composition that provides long-term moisturizing and cooling effects, while maintaining a soft, stable structure over time (without cracking or sweating at high temperatures, and no evaporation of water) and maintaining a smooth, creamy, and airy texture. demand.

    [Prior technical literature]         [Patent Literature]    

[PTL 1]

US Patent No. 5,928,655

[PTL 2]

US Patent No. 5,756,082

[PTL 3]

EP Publication No. 1,112,325

[PTL 4]

US Patent No. 6,528,073

[PTL 5]

US Patent No. 6,280,750

[PTL 6]

US Patent No. 5,567,426

[PTL 7]

US Patent No. 9,023,334

[PTL 8]

US Patent No. 8,597,621

The invention relates to a stable solid oil in water (W / O) emulsion composition, which comprises at least one gelling system and at least one surfactant system.

In a specific example, the gelation system of the present invention may include a combination of at least one (1) hydrophobic gelling agent and at least one (1) hydrophilic gelling agent.

In a further specific example, the gelling system comprises at least two (2) hydrophobic gelling agents and at least one (1) hydrophilic gelling agent.

In another specific example, the at least two hydrophobic gelling agents include, for example, a styrenic copolymer and a mineral gelling agent, and the hydrophilic gelling agent includes, for example, at least one thermoreversible polysaccharide.

The unique combination of the at least two (2) hydrophobic gelling agents (e.g., comprising a hydrocarbon styrene copolymer and a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent) allows obtaining a solid and smooth texture composition. At the same time, the water embedded in the hydrophilic gelling agent provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect, as well as a cooling and bursting feeling immediately after application. The combination of all gelling agents helps to achieve long-lasting color effects and comfortable application.

In order to overcome the stability problem, in a specific example of the present invention, the composition contains at least one surfactant system, and the surfactant system includes at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value equal to or less than 14.

Another solution to the stability problem is to solve by introducing at least one surfactant system and at least one polyglyceride, wherein the surfactant system comprises at least two non-ionics having an HLB value of about 2 to about 14 Blends of sexual surfactants.

In a specific illustrative embodiment, the at least two non-ionic surfactants are selected from, but not limited to, a polyethylene glycol dimethicone surfactant.

The unique combination of non-ionic surfactants provides the stability of the composition, meaning that the composition remains solid and creamy over time, the pigment remains uniformly dispersed, does not break or crack, and does not release water (sweating) at higher temperatures, It does not have an unpleasant smell.

An exemplary embodiment of the present invention relates to a W / O cosmetic composition comprising a gelling system, the gelling system comprising: (I) at least one hydrophobic gelling agent containing a styrene copolymer gelling agent; (II) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and (III) at least one additional hydrophobic gelling agent containing a mineral gelling agent, and at least one emulsifying system containing at least one polymer having an HLB value equal to or less than 14 Glycol Silicate Surfactant.

Another exemplary embodiment of the present invention relates to a solid W / O cosmetic composition, which comprises: A. A water phase of about 9% to about 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, which contains at least A hydrophilic gelling agent in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous phase; B. Based on the total weight of the composition, about 91% to about 50% by weight An oil phase comprising at least one hydrophobic gelling agent in an amount of about 10% to about 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oil phase; and at least one surfactant.

In a further exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition further includes, but is not limited to, one or more of water, at least one wax, at least one fatty solvent, at least one humectant, and at least one tempering powder. Additionally and optionally, the composition may further include at least one film-forming agent and / or at least one pigment.

Due to the unique structure described below, the composition of the present invention is characterized by smooth, creamy and non-adhesive properties, while at the same time it provides long-lasting, refreshing and cool feeling and is very stable.

The composition of the present invention may be, but is not limited to, lipstick, foundation cream, blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, skin care product, sunscreen, deodorant, and the like.

Other exemplary embodiments of the present invention relate to methods for enhancing the appearance of keratinous materials (such as lips, skin, eyelids, eyebrows, etc.), as illustrations and not limitation, by using appropriate applicators, including but not limited to lipstick boxes or lipsticks A stand, a mascara applicator, an eye shadow applicator, an eyeliner applicator, a blush applicator, and a foundation cream applicator apply the composition of the present invention to such keratinous materials.

The solid form of the composition of the present invention may be, but is not limited to, a rod shape, a crayon, a pod, a rod, and the like.

A further exemplary embodiment of the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a solid W / O composition, which includes: (a) preparing at least one oil phase containing at least one hydrophobic gel; (b) preparing at least one oil phase containing at least one The aqueous phase of the hydrophilic gel; and (c) incorporating at least one pigment as needed.

It should be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are merely exemplary and explanatory and are not intended to limit the present invention.

Unless otherwise specified, percentages are based on the mass (weight) of the composition or the particular phase. Unless otherwise specified, all ratios are mass ratios.

As used herein, "about" means within 10% of the value shown (eg, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

"Solid cosmetics" means that its hardness is measured at room temperature (25 ° C) using ASTM method number 213 (Sun-Rheo Meter, Needle: 1.0mm; weight 2kG; holding 10.0M; Press 20MM / M). A composition of about 7 mm to about 24 mm, preferably about 10 mm to about 20 mm, and most preferably 12 mm to 16 mm.

As used herein, "keratinous surface" means skin (including the face), hair, including eyelashes and eyebrows that may be treated with skin and / or cosmetic products (eg, color cosmetics).

The term "oil phase" as used herein means a phase containing a hydrophobic carrier, usually an oily ingredient. Suitable oils include, by way of illustration and not limitation, silicone oils (linear and cyclic), esters, ketones, glycol ether vegetable and mineral oils, synthetic oils, paraffin oils, hydrocarbons, aromatic solvents, including but not limited to the text Appraiser. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile and are preferably in the form of a pourable liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).

"Volatile" means that the oil has a measurable vapor pressure of at least about 2 mm Hg at 20 ° C.

The term "non-volatile" means that the oil has a vapor pressure of less than 2 mm Hg at 20 ° C.

The oil phase may contain additional hydrophobic compounds that are easily incorporated into a hydrophobic carrier. Such other suitable hydrophobic compounds may be in liquid, solid, and / or semi-solid forms and their possibilities, including, but not limited to, oil-soluble waxes and film formers, surfactants, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners Agents (gelling agents), emollients, active ingredients, vitamins, pigments, extracts, powders, hydrophobic solvents, and other useful ingredients.

The term "hydrophobic" generally means that the substance is difficult to dissolve in water due to its non-polar structure. The term "hydrophilic" on the other hand means that the substance is soluble in water or other polar solvents due to its hydrogen bonding ability.

Some compounds can be characterized as both hydrophobic and hydrophilic.

The term "aqueous phase" is intended to be understood as a phase containing water as the main carrier. Generally, the aqueous phase may contain additional substances such as water-soluble film formers, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners (gelling agents), emollients, humectants, preservatives, active ingredients, vitamins, extract , Powder, hydrophilic solvent, and other useful ingredients. Their compounds can be incorporated into the composition in liquid, solid, and / or semi-solid form.

In a non-limiting illustrative specific example, the amount of the oil phase characterizing the composition of the present invention is, relative to the total mass of the composition, from about 50% to about 91%, more preferably about 35% by mass. To about 88%, and most preferably in the range of about 50% to about 83%.

In a non-limiting illustrative specific example, the amount of the aqueous phase characterizing the composition of the present invention is, relative to the total mass of the composition, from about 9% to about 50%, more preferably about 10% by mass. To about 40%, and most preferably in the range of about 12% to about 30%.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may include: consisting of or substantially consisting of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, and any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described or otherwise useful herein.

Gelling system

The gelling system of the present invention comprises a combination of at least one hydrophobic gelling agent and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Preferably, the gelling system comprises a combination of at least two (2) hydrophobic gelling agents and at least one (1) hydrophilic gelling agent.

As used herein, "gelling agent" means a formulation that helps modify the viscosity, thixotropic viscosity-reducing properties and stability of a cosmetic composition (eg, reducing pigment sedimentation, colloidal dehydration).

According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the gelation system is about 3.01% to about 27%, preferably about 4% to about 21%, and most preferably about 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. % To about 17%.

In a specific illustrative embodiment, the weight ratio of the hydrophobic gelling agent to the hydrophilic gelling agent is about 1.5: 0.005 to about 12.5: 1.

Furthermore, in the present invention, when two or more hydrophobic gelling agents are used, at least one is preferably a hydrophobic styrene copolymer gelling agent.

The weight ratio of the hydrophobic styrene copolymer gelling agent to other hydrophobic gelling agents (for example, hydrophobic mineral gelling agents) is preferably about 1: 0.5 to about 7.5: 5.

In a specific illustrative embodiment, a hydrophobic styrene copolymer gelling agent (ie, a styrene copolymer in a carrier), a hydrophilic gelling agent (ie, a powder alone), and a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent ( That is, the weight ratio of the mineral gelling agent in the carrier is about 1: 0.005: 0.5 to about 7.5: 1: 5, respectively.

A. Hydrophobic gelling agent (gelling agent)

According to the present invention, the cosmetic composition may include at least one hydrophobic gelling agent (gelling agent), which includes a synthetic and / or natural tackifier.

Therefore, according to the present invention, the composition may contain at least one thickened hydrophobic gelling agent, preferably more than one hydrophobic gelling agent, such as, for example, hydrocarbon block copolymers, including styrene block copolymers, With hydrophobic minerals and their mixtures.

Hydrophobic gelling agents are usually incorporated into the oily (hydrophobic) phase containing an oil suitable for use in the composition of the present invention. Depending on the specific example, suitable hydrophobic gelling agents can be used in solid or gel form.

According to a specific example of the present invention, the amount of the hydrophobic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition is about 3% to about 25%, preferably about 3.5% to about 20% and more preferably about 6% to about 16%.

The presence of a hydrophobic gelling agent results in the desirable texture, hardness, and stability of the final product as previously described.

Hydrocarbon-styrene copolymer gelling agent

According to a specific example of the present invention, the at least one hydrocarbon block copolymer includes at least one styrene block and at least one block including a unit selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butene and isopropylene, and hydrogenation. Hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,221,534, which is incorporated herein by reference. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer of the present invention is preferably soluble or dispersible in the oil phase.

In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

The term "polymer" is intended to mean copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from two or more types of monomers, for example, terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers. The polymer molecules may contain at least one hydrophilic unit and / or at least one hydrophobic unit.

According to another specific example, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene copolymer gelling agent selected from, but not limited to, a block polymer comprising at least one block composed of a styrene unit or a styrene derivative.

The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may be a diblock or triblock copolymer or a multiblock copolymer, star-shaped or radial. Particularly useful but non-limiting examples include ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymers and butenes as described in US Pat. No. 8,021,674 and in US Pat. No. 6,433,068 (all incorporated herein by reference) / Ethylene / styrene.

An example of a commercially available styrene copolymer gelling agent that can be used in the present invention is Versagel ME 2000 (INCI name: hydrogenated polyisobutylene (and) ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer (and) butene / ethylene / benzene Ethylene copolymer) and other types of gelling agents available from Calumet Penreco and sold under the VERSAGEL (registered trademark) series. Suitable VERSAGEL (registered trademark) gelling agents are contained in various carriers (for example, mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and isopropyl Copolymer of styrene in isononanoate.

In the illustrative embodiment, the amount of the hydrocarbon styrene copolymer gelling agent (ie, the styrene copolymer in the carrier) used in the present invention, relative to the total mass of the composition, is about 2 by mass. % To about 15%, more preferably about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably about 4% to about 10%.

2. Hydrophobic mineral gelling agent

According to the present invention, the composition of the present invention may also contain at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent, which may be selected from, but not limited to, organically modified clay and modified or unmodified lithium bentonite and hydrophobic silica, including gas. Phase silicon dioxide. According to the present invention, the hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be selected from, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and modified with dimethyl distearyl ammonium. Montmorillonite and the like, as described and exemplified in US Pat. Pub. No. 2007/0071703, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be a quaternary ammonium salt compound added to a natural or synthetic bentonite clay mineral (such as bentonite) by an ion exchange reaction. The choice of the organically modified clay mineral is not particularly limited as long as it is cosmetically acceptable and includes, for example, dimethyl ammonium lithium bentonite, benzyl dimethyl stearate lithium bentonite, and distearyl Dimethyl ammonium chloride-treated magnesium aluminum silicate.

The hydrophobic mineral gelling agent that is particularly useful in the present invention is selected from, for example, bentonite and organically modified lithium bentonite dispersed in an organic solvent in advance. Non-limiting examples of commercially available bentonite are the BENTONE GEL (registered trademark) series, including BENTONE GEL (registered trademark) ISD V (INCI: isododecane, distearyl dimethyl ammonium, commercially available from Elementis Specialties) Lithium bentonite, propylene carbonate). Another exemplary material is GARAMITE 7308XR (INCI: quaternary ammonium-90 sepiolite and quaternary ammonium-90 montmorillonite) commercially available from Eckart.

As previously mentioned, another suitable hydrophobic mineral gelling agent includes silica, especially fumed silica, and those treated with a silanol group. Such hydrophobic silicas are commercially available, for example, AEROSIL (registered trademark) under the name Degussa and CAB-O-SIL (registered trademark) available from Cabot.

According to the invention, suitable mineral gelling agents can be used in the form of solid powders or gels, where the powders are dispersed in a carrier, for example, mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polymer Isobutane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and / or isononyl isononanoate.

In the illustrative embodiment, the amount of the hydrophobic mineral gelling agent (the mineral gelling agent in the carrier) is from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably about 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. 1.5% to about 8%, and most preferably in the range of about 2% to about 6%.

B. Hydrophilic gelling agent

According to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include thermoreversible polysaccharides such as agar, agarose, carrageenan, and gellan gum. According to a specific example of the invention, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be incorporated into the formulation in the form of a powder or a gel.

In an exemplary embodiment, the at least one hydrophilic gelling agent is an agar as described in U.S. Pat. No. 8,933,134, which is incorporated herein by reference. The agar that can be used in the illustrative embodiment of the present invention is insoluble in cold water, but it swells considerably and absorbs up to twenty times its own weight of water; it is extremely soluble in boiling water and has a gel coagulation concentration as low as 0.50%. Another useful example is powdered dry agar, which is insoluble in water and other solvents between 95 ° C and 100 ° C. Yet another useful example is wet agar flocculated with ethanol, 2-propanol, or acetone, or salted out with a high concentration of electrolyte, which is soluble in various solvents at room temperature. According to the present invention, the agar in a preferred suitable form is a powder; however, agar can also be introduced into the composition as an agar gel, the preparation and characteristics of which are disclosed in US Pat. Nos. 9,757,312 and 8,367,044, all of which are incorporated herein by reference. Reference. Agars used in connection with specific examples of the present invention can be cosmetic and food grade, including those commercially available from Ina Food Industry Corporation.

The amount of the hydrophilic gelling agent used in the present invention is, but not limited to, about 0.01% to about 2%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 1%, and most preferably relative to the total mass of the composition. About 0.2% to about 0.5%.

According to the present invention, the presence of a hydrophilic gelling agent optimizes the desired texture and hardness.

According to the present invention, a hydrophilic gelling agent may be mixed with water to obtain a hydrophilic gel. The amount of at least one hydrophilic gel used in the present invention is, but not limited to, about 9.01% to about 37%, more preferably about 10.1% to about 31%, and most preferably relative to the total mass of the composition. It is in a range of about 12.2% to about 25.5%.

Surfactant system

According to the present invention, the composition of the present invention contains at least one surfactant system including, for example, at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 14 or less.

"HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" associated with emulsifiers.

In particular, the HLB value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic groups to lipophilic groups in the emulsifier, and also relates to the solubility of the emulsifier. Generally, lower HLB emulsifiers are more soluble in lipophilic substances or oils, and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. On the other hand, higher HLB emulsifiers are more soluble in water or hydrophilic substances and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.

Furthermore, the present invention may contain, for example, a surfactant system comprising a blend of at least two non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2 to 14. Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants include polyglyceryl alkyl ethers, ester-linked surfactants, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyglyceryl esters, glyceryl ethers, and sorbitan derivatives including sorbitol Anhydride esters, polysiloxane derivatives, polyethylene glycol ethers, alkoxylated alcohols, and carbohydrates. As further examples, suitable surfactants may include, but are not limited to, propylene glycol isostearate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan isostearate, oleth-2, lauric acid Glyceryl ester, ceteth-2, methyl glucose sesquistearate, lauryl-4, cetyl stearyl glucoside, polysorbate 85 , Oleyl alcohol polyether-10 and cetyl alcohol polyether-10.

Particularly useful in the present invention are the polyethylene glycol derivatives of silin, specifically PEG-8 to PEG-12 silan surfactants and those described in U.S. Pat. No. 7,842,725. According to a specific example, a suitable but non-limiting example of siloxane polyethylene glycol derivatives is PEG-12 siloxane and PEG-10 siloxane, both of which have an HLB value of less than 14.

According to another exemplary embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain, for example, at least two (2) nonionic surfactants.

The amount of non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention, including but not limited to about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 3%, and most relative to the total mass of the composition, and most It is preferably about 0.2% to about 2.5%.

The amount of PEG-12 silazin used in the present invention includes, but is not limited to, about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably relative to the total mass of the composition. It is about 0.2% to about 2.5%.

The amount of PEG-10 silazin used in the present invention, based on the total mass of the composition, includes but is not limited to about 0.01% to about 4%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably It is about 0.2% to about 2.5%.

Furthermore, in the illustrative specific example, the blend of silaz surfactant contains PEG-12 silaz and PEG-10 silaz, and its mass ratio is about 5: 1 to about 1 based on the total mass of the composition. :1.

wax

According to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention, the composition includes at least one wax. The at least one wax is selected from, but is not limited to, waxes that are solid or semi-solid at room temperature (25 ° C). Specific examples include, but are not limited to, natural and synthetic waxes, for example: beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, palm wax, bayberry wax, insect wax [wax secreted by Ericerus pela], whale wax, Montan wax, bran wax (rice wax), java kapok wax (capok wax), Japanese wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, cane wax, lanolin fatty acid and isopropyl alcohol esters, lauric acid Esters, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, POE lanolin alcohol ethers, POE lanolin alcohol acetates, POE cholesterol ethers, lanolin Fatty acid esters and polyethylene waxes, synthetic waxes, fatty acid glycerides, hydrogenated castor oil, petrolatum, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ethers.

The amount of the wax used in the present invention, based on the total mass of the composition, includes, but is not limited to, about 12% to about 22%, more preferably about 13% to about 18%, and most preferably about 13% to About 16.5%.

Solvent

According to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention, the composition includes at least one solvent. The at least one solvent is selected from, but is not limited to, solvents having a flash point below 50 ° C and those having a flash point above 70 ° C, which include volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons, volatile and non-volatile silicones, alcohol Oils, glycols, esters, vegetable oils, and synthetic oils. Some preferred solvents include, for example, hydrocarbons and polysiloxane-based solvents, such as hydrogenated polyisobutane, isododecane, siloxane, and methicone. A commercially available suitable hydrocarbon solvent is PALLEM 4 (INCI name: hydrogenated polyisobutane and tocopherol) commercially available from NOF Corporation.

The amount of the solvent used in the present invention, based on the total mass of the composition, includes, but is not limited to, about 0.01% to about 30%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 25%, and most preferably about 1% to About 20%.

water

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, W / O emulsions require the use of water. According to an illustrative specific example, the water used in the composition of the present invention is about 9% to about 35%, preferably about 10% to about 30% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, and most preferably Is present from about 12% to about 25%.

Quenched and tempered powder

According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition includes at least one quenching powder. The at least one quenched and tempered powder is selected from, but not limited to, minerals and organic fillers of any shape. According to the present invention, the quenched and tempered powder may be, but is not limited to, a blend of silicon dioxide, polymer microspheres, and amino acids. Examples include, but are not limited to, mica, silicon dioxide, polyamide powder, starch, boron nitride, silicone beads, and elastomer powder.

The amount of the quenched and tempered powder used in the present invention includes, but is not limited to, about 0.01% to about 30%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 25%, and most preferably about 100% relative to the total mass of the composition. 1% to about 20%.

moisturizer

According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention contains a hydrophilic humectant selected from, but not limited to, those described in US Patent No. 5,977,188 including polyhydric alcohol type humectants such as dipropylene glycol, polyglycerin, 1,3-butane Moisturizers for glycols, ethers, polyols, glycerol, glycerol polymers and polyethylene glycols. It has been observed that particularly suitable but not limited humectants that can be used in combination with specific examples of the present invention are glycerin and glycerin polymers with up to 40 glycerol units.

The amount of the humectant used in the present invention includes, but is not limited to, about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 5%, and most preferably about 0.2 relative to the total mass of the composition. % To about 2%.

Pigments (as needed)

According to the present invention, at least one pigment is selected from, but not limited to, organic and inorganic treated pigments, for example, pigments that provide special visual effects. Specific examples include, but are not limited to, iron oxide, red 7 lake, gonochromatic pigment.

The amount of the pigment used in the present invention, based on the total mass of the composition, includes, but is not limited to, about 0.01% to about 30%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 25%, and most preferably about 1%. To about 20%.

Film-forming agent (if needed)

According to the present invention, the at least one film-forming agent is selected from but not limited to water-soluble film-forming agents and oil-soluble film-forming agents, acrylic film-forming agents, and polysiloxane film-forming agents, such as those described in US2009 / 001708.

"Film-forming agent" or "film-forming polymer" as used herein means leaving a thin film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after the solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, it is absorbed into the substrate And / or polymers or resins that disappear from the substrate.

The amount of the film-forming agent used in the present invention is, but not limited to, about 0.01% to about 30%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 25%, and most preferably about 1 with respect to the total mass of the composition. % To about 20%.

The composition of the present invention may further include other ingredients suitable for its intended use such as emollients, organic pigments, preservatives, fillers, active ingredients, sunscreen agents, additives, additional solvents.

    [Specific example description]    

Preferred specific examples of the present invention are shown below.

* Versagel ME2000 and ** Bentone- Both are incorporated into the exemplified composition in gel form. *** Agar is incorporated into the exemplified composition in solid form.

Preparation method of the composition of the present invention:

In a main beaker, combine all (A) oil phase compounds and homogenize at 90 to 95 ° C until the mixture is homogeneous. Bentone (B) was then added and homogenized at the same temperature for about 5 minutes or until it was completely dispersed in the blend of Compound A. Next, the temperature was lowered to 85 to 90 ° C, and all waxes (Compound C) were added to completely melt. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, all volatile solvents (D) are added and mixed for an additional 5 minutes while maintaining a stable temperature of 85 to 90 ° C. Thereafter, the temperature was lowered to 80 to 85 ° C, and all powder (E) was added and mixed until all were uniformly dispersed.

The water phase (F) compounds were combined in different beakers. To minimize water loss, the water phase was mixed under cover at 80 to 85 ° C. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, the water phase is gradually added to the oil phase and homogenized using a speed of 1700 rpm to 2300 rpm. To obtain a homogeneous composition, the oil phase and water phase mixture is homogenized at a speed of 1400 rpm to 1700 rpm for the next five (5) minutes. The entire emulsification process is performed at 80 to 85 ° C. All homogenization steps were performed using a Romobics homogenizer. After the emulsification process is complete, add all required pigments (G) and mix well using an IKA RW mixer.

The present inventors conducted tests to prove the importance of using the gelling system and the surfactant system described above. The results are shown below. The control formulations used in each test are shown in Example 1 of Table 1.

Evaluation criteria / evaluation methods

The compositions of the present invention were evaluated for comparative examples shown in Tables 2, 3, and 4, respectively, below.

Texture

Five (5) independent participants, typical lipstick users, aged between 24 and 60 years, applied the lipstick composition and evaluated its characteristics: light weight, moisturizing, refreshing and cool feeling, soft, smooth, Creamy, good and comfortable coverage. In addition, the durability of wear was evaluated four (4) hours after application. All parameters are rated using a rating scale of 1 to 3, as described below:

3: Very good: Panelists report lipsticks with all the characteristics as listed above.

2: Acceptable: Group members report lipsticks that have only some of the characteristics listed above.

1: Unacceptable: Group members report lipsticks that do not have the characteristics listed above.

Hardness

For each test composition, hardness was evaluated according to the method described above, using three (3) samples per formula and calculating the average. Acceptability is rated based on the measurements listed below.

○: Good: Ideal hardness: 12mm to 16mm

△: Acceptable: Hardness 10 to 20mm

×: Not acceptable: Hardness is less than 9mm or greater than 24mm

Emulsion separation

After the composition was prepared, the emulsion separation of the test sample was visually checked according to the following grade.

○: Good: No separation

×: Unacceptable: separation.

Stability

The "sweat" of odors, cracks and / or solvents was evaluated visually for the stability of the test specimens. The samples were stored at 0 ° C, -5 ° C, 25 ° C, 37 ° C, and 98% humidity, and at 45 ° C. Evaluation is performed when the sample is prepared (initially) and once a week for a total of eight (8) weeks. Acceptance is determined based on the presence of odors, cracks and / or solvent "sweating" and based on the scoring system below:

○: Good: No cracking, odor, or sweating at any test temperature during the test.

×: Unacceptable: Cracking / sweating / odor occurred at any of the temperatures listed.

First, the inventors investigated the need to use three (3) gelling agents: a hydrocarbon styrene copolymer gelling agent (Versagel), a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent (Bentone), and a hydrophilic gelling agent (agar) in combination. .

The compositions used from Examples 2-1 to 2-7 are as described in Table 2-1. The results are shown in Table 2-2.

* Versagel ME2000 and ** Bentone- Both are incorporated into the exemplified composition in gel form. *** Agar is incorporated into the exemplified composition in solid form.

Example 2-1 shows composition 1 derived from Table 1. Examples 2-2 to 2-7 are comparative compositions.

As shown in Tables 2-1 and 2-2, even if the wax is blended in an amount sufficient to generally cure the oil phase, it is difficult to properly cure the composition containing water and a surfactant. In a (2-2 to 2-7) system incorporating a single gelling agent or only two of them, the curing is insufficient, which is not desirable from the viewpoints of stability, hardness, emulsion separation and texture.

The data presented in Tables 2-1 and 2-2 clearly indicate that in order to obtain a stable composition with the desired hardness and texture, the use of three (3) gelling agents is necessary.

Next, the present inventors studied three (3) types of gelling agents: hydrocarbon styrene copolymer gelling agents, hydrophobic mineral gelling agents, and hydrophilic gelling agents, and studied the preferred amounts of each. The results are shown in Tables 3-1 and 3-2.

* Versagel ME2000 and Bentone **-both are incorporated into the exemplified composition in gel form. *** Agar is incorporated into the exemplified composition in solid form.

Example 2-1 shows composition 1 derived from Table 1. Examples 3-1 to 3-4 are comparative compositions.

As shown in Tables 3-1 and 3-2, when the styrene copolymer gelling agent is used in excess of 15% of the total weight of the composition, the hardness, texture, emulsion separation, and stability tend to be inferior (3-1). Similarly, when the amount of the hydrophilic gelling agent used is greater than 3% and the hydrophobic mineral gelling agent is used in excess of 15% based on the total weight of the composition, all desired characteristics of the final composition of the present invention are observed to deteriorate.

The data presented indicates the need for a specific amount of three (3) gelling agents in combination, which is necessary to obtain the desired properties of the composition of the invention.

Next, the present inventors studied the importance of the amount of a specific surfactant and its pH value. The results are shown in Tables 4-1 and 4-2.

*** Agar is incorporated into the exemplified composition in solid form.

Example 2-1 shows the composition 1 of the present invention derived from Table 1. Examples 4-1 to 4-7 are comparative compositions.

As shown in Tables 4-1 and 4-2, in terms of the desired physical characteristics of the product, it is preferred that a polyethylene glycol silicin surfactant is present. It was observed that the absence and / or too high amounts of any of the tested surfactants both negatively affected not only the texture, but also significantly degraded the hardness, emulsion separation, and stability of the composition. According to these experiments, to obtain the best quality composition of the present invention, PEG12-silicone and PEG10-silicone should be used simultaneously.

Furthermore, the optimal HLB of the surfactant was found to be 2 to 14. When using a surfactant with an HLB of 16.5, the texture and hardness are particularly deteriorated.

Claims (20)

    A solid W / O composition comprising: 1) a gelling system containing: at least one hydrophobic gelling agent; at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and 2) an emulsifying system containing at least one having an HLB value A surfactant equal to or less than 14.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application range, wherein the amount of the gelling system is about 3.01% to about 27% relative to the total mass of the composition.         The composition according to item 1 of the application, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of agar, agarose, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginic acid, and mixtures thereof.         The composition according to item 1 of the application, wherein the hydrophobic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of a hydrocarbon styrene gelling agent, a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent, and a mixture thereof.         The composition according to item 4 of the scope of patent application, wherein the amount of the hydrophobic gelling agent is about 3% to about 25% with respect to the total mass of the composition.         The composition according to item 4 of the application, wherein the hydrophobic gelling agent is a hydrocarbon styrene copolymer gelling agent, and the amount is about 2% to about 15% relative to the total mass of the composition.         The composition according to item 4 of the scope of patent application, wherein the hydrophobic gelling agent is a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent, and the amount thereof is about 1% to about 10% relative to the total mass of the composition.         The composition according to item 1 of the scope of the patent application, wherein the gelling system contains a hydrocarbon styrene gelling agent, a hydrophobic mineral gelling agent, and a hydrophilic gelling agent, etc. A mass ratio of about 7.5: 5: 1 exists.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application range, wherein the amount of the emulsifying system is about 0.01% to about 4% relative to the total mass of the composition.         The composition according to item 9 of the application, wherein the emulsifying system is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol derivatives of polysiloxane, glycerides, polyglyceryl alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.         The composition according to item 10 of the application, wherein the polyethylene glycol derivative of polysiloxane is selected from nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2 to 14.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope further comprises water.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope, further comprising at least one wax.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope further comprises at least one solvent.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope, further comprising at least one humectant.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope, further comprising at least one quenched and tempered powder.         The composition according to item 1 of the patent application scope further comprises at least one pigment.         The composition according to item 1 of the scope of patent application, wherein the composition is a lipstick.         A solid W / O cosmetic emulsion comprising: an aqueous phase of about 9% to about 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, which contains at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in an amount relative to the aqueous phase The mass is from about 0.1% to about 5% by mass; based on the weight percentage of the total weight of the composition, from about 50% to about 91% by weight of the oil phase, which contains at least one hydrophobic gelling agent in an amount relative to that The mass of the oil phase is from about 10% by mass to about 30% by mass; and at least one surfactant.         A method for applying a composition on a keratinous surface, the composition comprising: 1) a gelling system containing: at least one hydrophobic gelling agent; at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and 2) an emulsifying system containing At least one surfactant having an HLB value equal to or less than 14; wherein the composition is a solid W / O emulsion.