558571 2003年4月修正本 玖、發明說明 (發明說明應敘明:發明所屬之技術領域、先前技術、內容、實施方式及圖式簡單說明) 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明係一種具彈性機能之氣撚加工紗(Air textured Yam),其特點 在於經過熱處理後,本發明之氣撚加工紗才顯現彈性機能者。本發明之氣 撚加工紗包含:中央的芯紗(Coreyam),係採取具有自捲彈性機能的熱 塑性纖維,和外層包覆的鞘紗(Effect yam),係採取一般熱塑性纖維; 經由空氣撚紗加工機(Air textured machine )撚紗製成一種氣撚加工紗種, 經過織布工程後,於染色、整理工程中,利用加工時之高溫,使得具有自 捲彈性機能之熱塑性纖維內產生收縮差,並達到織物具有彈性效果者。 【先前技術】 傳統製造氣撚加工紗的方式,如揭示於中華民國第144452號「吸溼 排汗加工紗」專利,其主要是以習知之異形斷面構造之聚酯或聚醯胺合成 纖維之原絲或加工紗作爲芯紗及鞘紗,經氣撚加工而撚紗成紗種,但此紗 種織成之織物並不具有彈性機能,穿著舒適感不佳。 此外,相關廠商亦有以短纖(Staple Fiber)包覆於LYCRA (Spandex) 外圍生產短纖彈性複合紗;或絲線以單/雙包方式包繞於LYCRA (Spandex)外圍、或絲線以高速空氣打節包繞於LYCRA (Spandex)外 圍生產長纖彈性複合紗(covering yam);此類紗種雖亦具有彈性’但除 了製造工序複雜之外’聚氨基甲酸酯絲(Spandex)仍有下列各項缺點: 1.因原料與製程之技術性複雜,成本較高。 5 558571 2003年4月修正本 2·不耐溼熱,故不適以高溫染整,且修色易脆化。 3·不耐鹼(NaOH)減量加工。 4·因彈性大導致織布及染整加工過程張力控制不易,加工困難度極 .· 高,影響產品品質及產業效率。 ^ 因此,本發明係針對上述各種現有相關產品所產生的問題,運用各種 加工技術及原料選擇,積極進行硏究與嘗試,經過不斷試驗與改良後,而 開發出確實具有實用功效之一種結合各種彈性複合紗優點之高級紗種’極 · 具產業生產價値。 【內容】 本發明之氣撚加工紗主要係芯紗按7 : 3到3 : 7比例將兩種不同收縮 率之熱塑性聚合體經融熔複合紡嘴進行紡絲而製成纖維,使得兩種不同收 縮率之熱塑性聚合體在纖維橫截面中具有相互配列特色,其製造示意圖如 第四圖所示,第五圖即列舉數種可應用於本發明之芯紗複合纖維斷面示意 鲁 圖。當於染整工程中遇到熱水時,因兩種材質收縮率不同,致界面因收縮 應力差異而形成類似彈簧狀之螺旋,因而產生自捲彈性機能。鞘紗(Effect yam) (4)採取1根或2根或3根之一般熱塑性纖維,其規格及紗種可 視織物所需效果及機能作適當之選擇。 經由第一圖之加工流程示意圖觀之,芯紗(3)及鞘紗(4)或(5) · 係分別經由不同之喂入羅拉(W1.1)及(W1.2)以不同喂率喂入氣撚加 6 558571 工裝置(7)(如第三圖之放大圖所示)中加工後,將加工2003年4月修1^ 工紗(8)由第二羅拉(W2)導出,最後再藉由控制第三羅拉(W3)與 捲取輥筒(WW)間之喂率將紗捲繞。 本發明之彈性氣撚加工紗(8)可再經針織機、有梭、無梭織機織成 各種形狀之布疋,由於未經過熱水處理前尙未顯現彈性效果,故無張力控 制之問題,織造性比現有彈性複合紗優異;最後經染整、印花加工後,可 賦予織物優異的彈性機能,穿著舒適性極佳。 綜上所述,本發明即針對具有自捲彈性氣撚加工紗所發展出的製造方 法,爲簡單且具體地說明本發明之特徵,以下述之實施例予以簡單說明, 唯本發明並不限於下列之實施例。 【實施方式】 彈性評估方法之說明 機台:INSTRON-6021萬能拉力試驗機 方法:a·於室溫無張力下裁製2.5cmx 3 Ocm試片 (含夾具夾持部份l〇cm) b.Test Speed爲 1.667mm/Sec Return Speed 爲lO.Omm/Sec c·試片 Pre-Load 12g d·定拉力:lOOOg 計算:彈性伸長率(定拉力1000g下) -(A2-A1) -A1 xlOO% 558571 2003年4月修正本 A1 :試片未拉伸前長度 A2 :試片於定拉力lOOOg之長度 實施例·· 160d/300f§單性氣撚加工紗之製作 芯紗:50d/12fPET自捲彈性紗 鞘紗:100d/288fPET圓型斷面紗 加工條件: D.R Roller Speed : 300M/Min Core yam Over Feed · 8.5 %558571 Amendments to the present invention and the description of the invention in April 2003 (the description of the invention should state: the technical field, the prior art, the content, the embodiments, and the drawings of the invention are briefly explained) [Technical field to which the invention belongs] The invention is a kind of flexible The functional air textured yarn (Air textured Yam) is characterized in that after the heat treatment, the air twisted yarn of the present invention exhibits elastic performance. The air-twisted yarn of the present invention comprises: a central core yarn (Coreyam), which adopts a thermoplastic fiber with self-winding elastic function, and an outer sheath sheath yarn (Effect yam), which adopts a general thermoplastic fiber; twisting the yarn through air Air textured machine twists the yarn into an air-twisted yarn. After the weaving process, in the dyeing and finishing process, the high temperature during processing is used to cause a shrinkage difference in the thermoplastic fibers with self-winding elasticity. And to achieve fabrics with elastic effects. [Previous technology] The traditional manufacturing method of air-twisted yarns, such as disclosed in the patent No. 144452 "moisture wicking yarn", is mainly a polyester or polyamide synthetic fiber with a conventional profiled cross-section structure. The raw silk or processed yarn is used as the core yarn and sheath yarn, and the yarn is twisted into a yarn type through air twist processing. However, the fabric woven with this yarn type does not have elasticity and is not comfortable to wear. In addition, related manufacturers also produce short-fiber elastic composite yarns covered with staple fibers on the periphery of LYCRA (Spandex); or single or double wraps are wrapped around the periphery of LYCRA (Spandex), or the yarns are exposed to high-speed air The knots are wrapped around LYCRA (Spandex) to produce long-fiber elastic composite yarns (covering yam); although this type of yarn also has elasticity, but in addition to complex manufacturing processes, polyurethane silk (Spandex) still has the following Disadvantages: 1. Due to the technical complexity of raw materials and processes, the cost is high. 5 558571 Rev. April 2003 2. It is not resistant to humidity and heat, so it is not suitable for dyeing and finishing at high temperature, and the color is easy to be brittle. 3. Alkali-resistant (NaOH) reduction processing. 4. Due to the large elasticity, it is difficult to control the tension of the weaving and dyeing and finishing process, and the processing difficulty is extremely high. It affects product quality and industrial efficiency. ^ Therefore, the present invention aims at the problems caused by the various existing related products mentioned above, and uses various processing technologies and raw material selections to actively research and try. After continuous testing and improvement, it has developed a combination of various practically effective functions. High-grade yarns with the advantages of elastic composite yarns have extremely high industrial production prices. [Content] The air-twisted yarn of the present invention is mainly composed of core yarns of two types of thermoplastic polymers with different shrinkage ratios that are melt-spun through a melt-composite spinning nozzle at a ratio of 7: 3 to 3: 7. Thermoplastic polymers with different shrinkage ratios have mutually aligned features in the cross section of the fiber. The manufacturing schematic diagram is shown in Figure 4. The fifth diagram is a schematic drawing of the cross-sections of several types of core yarn composite fibers that can be applied to the present invention. When hot water is encountered in the dyeing and finishing project, due to the different shrinkage rates of the two materials, the interface will form a spring-like spiral due to the difference in shrinkage stress, resulting in self-winding elasticity. Sheath yarn (Effect yam) (4) Take 1 or 2 or 3 general thermoplastic fibers, and its specifications and yarn types can be appropriately selected according to the desired effect and function of the fabric. According to the schematic diagram of the processing flow in the first figure, the core yarn (3) and sheath yarn (4) or (5) are respectively fed through different feed rollers (W1.1) and (W1.2) at different feed rates. After feeding in air twist twist 6 558571 processing device (7) (as shown in the enlarged view of the third figure), the processing will be repaired in April 2003 1 ^ work yarn (8) is derived from the second roller (W2), Finally, the yarn is wound by controlling the feed rate between the third roller (W3) and the take-up roller (WW). The elastic air-twisted yarn (8) of the present invention can be woven into fabrics of various shapes through a knitting machine, a shuttle, and a shuttleless loom. Since the elastic effect does not appear before the hot water treatment, there is no problem of tension control. , Weaving is better than the existing elastic composite yarn; finally, after dyeing and finishing, printing processing, it can give the fabric excellent elasticity and excellent wearing comfort. In summary, the present invention is a manufacturing method developed for a self-winding elastic air-twisted processing yarn. In order to simply and specifically describe the features of the present invention, the following examples are used to briefly explain, but the present invention is not limited to The following examples. [Embodiment] Description of the elasticity evaluation method Machine: INSTRON-6021 universal tensile testing machine Method: a · Cutting 2.5cmx 3 Ocm test piece (including 10cm of clamping part) at room temperature without tension b. Test Speed is 1.667mm / Sec Return Speed is 10.0mm / Sec c. Test piece Pre-Load 12g d. Constant tensile force: 1000g Calculation: Elastic elongation (at constant tensile force 1000g)-(A2-A1) -A1 xlOO% 558571 Amendment in April 2003 A1: Length of the test piece before stretching A2: Length of the test piece at a fixed tensile force 1000g Example 160d / 300f§ Making of unisex air-twisted processing core yarn: 50d / 12fPET self-rolling Elastic yarn sheath yarn: 100d / 288fPET round cross-section yarn Processing conditions: DR Roller Speed: 300M / Min Core yam Over Feed · 8.5%
Effect yam Over Feed · 21.0 %Effect yam Over Feed21.0%
Air Pressure · lOkg/m 彈性伸長率(定拉力lOOOg下)=14.35 (%) 比較例: 170d/144f傳統氣撚加工紗之製作 芯紗:75d/72fPET圓型斷面紗 鞘紗:75d/72fPET圓型斷面紗 加工條件: D.R Roller Speed : 330M/Min Core yam Over Feed · 13.5%Air Pressure · lOkg / m Elastic elongation (at a constant tensile force of 1000g) = 14.35 (%) Comparative example: 170d / 144f Traditional air-twisted yarn production core yarn: 75d / 72fPET round cross-section veil sheath yarn: 75d / 72fPET round Type Veil Processing Conditions: DR Roller Speed: 330M / Min Core yam Over Feed · 13.5%
Effect yam Over Feed * 29.0% 558571Effect yam Over Feed * 29.0% 558571
Air Pressure ' 9.0kg/rri 2003 年 4 月修正本 彈性伸長率(定拉力lOOOg下)=5·75 (%) 由以上實施例與比較例比較可知,本發明芯紗採用具有自捲彈性機能之 . 熱塑性纖維,與鞘紗採用一般熱塑性纖維,作適切之加工,除可呈現鞘紗 . 原有特性外,更能使氣撚紗賦予獨特之彈性,5文善傳統氣撚加工紗之缺點。 產業上可應用性 本發明彈性氣撚加工紗,在未經染整加工的熱處理條件之前,自捲彈性 ® 機會&並未顯現,意即紗線具有優異之尺寸安定性,容易織造,在紡織工業 及成衣工業非常有用,極具產業生產價値。Air Pressure '9.0kg / rri April 2003 Revised the elastic elongation (at a constant tensile force of 1000g) = 5.75 (%) From the comparison of the above examples and comparative examples, it can be seen that the core yarn of the present invention uses a self-winding elastic function. Thermoplastic fibers and sheath yarns are made of general thermoplastic fibers for proper processing. In addition to the original characteristics of sheath yarns, air-twisted yarns can be given unique elasticity. The disadvantages of 5 Wenshan traditional air-twisted processing yarns. INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The elastic air-twisted yarn of the present invention has no self-winding elasticity ® opportunity & before the heat treatment conditions of the dyeing and finishing process, which means that the yarn has excellent dimensional stability and is easy to weave. The textile industry and the garment industry are very useful and very expensive.
9 558571 2003年4月修正本· 【圖式簡單說明】 第一圖:係運用於本發明之氣撚加工流程示意圖; 第二圖:係運用於本發明之氣撚加工另一流程示意圖; 第三圖:係第一圖氣撚加工裝置(7)之零件放大圖示意圖; ’ 第四圖:係應用於本發明芯紗之自捲彈性熱塑性纖維製造示意圖; ^ 第五圖:列舉數種可應用於本發明芯紗之自捲彈性熱塑性纖維斷面示意 圖,利用複合紡嘴將兩種不同收縮率之熱塑性聚合體,在纖維橫 截面中具有相互配列特色; · 第六圖:係應用於本發明芯紗之自捲彈性熱塑性纖維熱收縮後側面示意圖。 符號說明 ⑴水入口 (3)芯紗 (2)壓縮空氣入口 (4)鞘紗(單股喂入) (5 )鞘紗(倂股喂紗) (6 )捲取裝置 (7)氣撚加工裝置 ⑻氣撚加工紗 (Wl.l)、(W1.2)喂入羅拉 (W2)第二羅拉 (W3)第三羅拉 (WW)捲取輥筒9 558571 Rev. April 2003 · [Brief description of the drawings] The first diagram: a schematic diagram of the air-twisting process applied to the present invention; the second diagram: another diagram of the air-twisting process applied to the present invention; Three pictures: The enlarged view of the parts of the air twist processing device (7) in the first picture; 'The fourth picture: The manufacturing diagram of the self-winding elastic thermoplastic fiber used in the core yarn of the present invention; The fifth picture: List several kinds of Schematic cross-section of a self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber applied to the core yarn of the present invention, using a composite spinning nozzle, two types of thermoplastic polymers with different shrinkage ratios are aligned with each other in the cross section of the fiber; Side view of the self-winding elastic thermoplastic fiber of the invention core yarn after heat shrinking. Explanation of symbols: Water inlet (3) Core yarn (2) Compressed air inlet (4) Sheath yarn (single strand feeding) (5) Sheath yarn (skein strand feeding) (6) Winding device (7) Air twist processing Device: air twist twist yarn (Wl.l), (W1.2) feed roller (W2) second roller (W3) third roller (WW) take-up roller