Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
  • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

• the present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition that helps improve the appearance and feel of human skin. More specifically, the cosmetic composition is a finisher composition that is applied as an overlying top layer to an underlying layer of skin care composition, thereby improving the look and feel of the treated skin.
• Personal care products are well known and widely used. These products have long been employed to cleanse and moisturize, deliver actives, hide imperfections and to reduce the oiliness and shine on keratinous surfaces. Personal care products have also been used to alter the color and appearance of skin and hair. A variety of personal-care compositions are available to provide skin care benefits and to counteract what many consider undesirable “signs of skin aging,” such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Of these benefits, the look and feel of human skin are arguably the two most important and desired effects by consumers.
• a typical skin care product might contain:
• humectants and other skin actives to improve the condition and health of the skin
• emollients to lubricate the skin
• powders to provide a skin feel and immediate skin appearance benefit.
• Humectants are well known in the skin care industry, and may be incorporated into a personal care composition to provide a multitude of skin health and appearance benefits, such as increasing skin translucency (e.g., by less surface scattering and reducing refractive index gradients in the stratum corneum), reducing visible texture (e.g., by plumping of the stratum corneum) and generally better functioning and stronger skin.
• Glycerin is a commonly known humectant used widely in the field of cosmetics. It is not uncommon for glycerin to be incorporated into skin care compositions at relatively high levels to maximize the skin health benefit it provides.
• glycerin is a relatively thick, sticky material and high levels of glycerin can feel undesirably sticky and heavy on the skin. Moreover, high levels of glycerin on the skin can make it look undesirably shiny and greasy, at least in part because glycerin is slow to absorb into the skin.
• particulate materials may be added to a personal care composition to address the undesirable skin feel and look properties imparted by one or more ingredients in the composition, such as glycerin.
• glycerin e.g., micronized or spherical polymer particles may be used to provide feel, visible texture and/or wrinkle reduction benefits.
• Such particulate materials may provide an immediate visible texture (e.g., lines and wrinkles, pores, bumpy surface) reduction benefit to the skin by diffusely reflecting light, thereby providing a matting effect to the skin.
• particles may be added to a conventional skin care product to address the undesirable feel properties of a component ingredient such as glycerin (e.g., reduce the tacky feel).
• glycerin e.g., reduce the tacky feel
• the relatively high levels of powder required to provide the desired benefit may lead to products that are hard to spread on skin and/or products become noticeably white and can flake off the skin. In some instances, even incorporating relatively high amounts of powder may still fail to provide a suitable reduction in undesirable feel properties such as tackiness.
• some particulate materials may act as an opacifying agent, which can turn the consumer product into make-up or make-up like product. While opacifying agents can provide a color benefit to a target skin surface, opacifying agents can also cause an increase in the visible texture of the skin, thus making undesirable textural features of the skin (e.g., wrinkles, pores, bumpy surface) more visible rather than hiding them.
• a personal care composition that improves the undesirable look and feel properties of a conventional skin care composition when applied as an overlying layer to one or more underlying base layer(s) of skin care compositions, which contain high levels of ingredients with undesirable feel and look properties, such as humectants.
• a personal care composition that provides improved look and feel characteristics when used in conjunction with a conventional skin care composition and includes little or no pigments or colorants.
• a personal care composition comprising: from about 10 to 25 wt % of substantially spherical silicone elastomer particles having a mean particle size of from about 2 to 40 microns; a non-volatile oil, wherein a weight ratio of non-volatile oil to silicone elastomer particles is from about 1:10 to about 3:2; from about 20 to 85 wt % of water; and, optionally, from about 1 to 20 wt % of a volatile oil.
• the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and the composition is substantially free of humectant.
• a personal care composition comprising: from about 10 to 25 wt % of substantially spherical silicone elastomer particles having a mean particle size of from about 2 to 40 microns; a non-volatile oil, wherein a ratio of non-volatile oil to silicone elastomer particles is from about 1:10 to about 3:2; and from about 20 to 85 wt % of water.
• the composition also includes less than 1 wt % of a pigment and has a contrast ratio of less than about 20 according to the Contrast Ratio method.
• a personal care composition comprising: from about 10 to 25 wt % of substantially spherical silicone elastomer particles having a mean particle size of from about 2 to 40 microns; a non-volatile oil comprising at least about 70% of a non-volatile silicone, wherein a ratio of non-volatile oil to silicone elastomer particles is from about 1:10 to about 3:2; and from about 20 to 85 wt % of water, wherein the composition has a contrast ratio of less than about 20 according to the Contrast Ratio method.
• Percentages are by weight of the personal care composition or the particular phase being described, unless otherwise specified. All ratios are weight ratios, unless specifically stated otherwise. All numeric ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges; delineated upper and lower range limits are interchangeable to create further ranges not explicitly delineated. The number of significant digits conveys neither limitation on the indicated amounts nor on the accuracy of the measurements. All measurements are understood to be made at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions” means conditions at about 25° C., under about one atmosphere of pressure, and at about 50% relative humidity.
• “Apply” or “application,” as used in reference to a composition means to apply or spread the composition onto a keratinous tissue surface.
• Derivative refers to a molecule similar to that of another one, but differing from it in respect of a certain functional moiety. Derivatives may be formed by known reactive pathways. Suitable functional moieties include esters, ethers, amides, amines, carboxylic acids, hydroxyls, halogens, thiols, and/or salt derivatives of the relevant molecule.
• Keratinous tissue refers to keratin-containing layers disposed as the outermost protective covering of mammals which includes, but is not limited to, skin, hair, nails, cuticles, etc.
• Non-volatile means a material that exhibit a vapor pressure of no more than about 0.2 mm Hg at 25° C. at one atmosphere and/or a material that has a boiling point at one atmosphere of at least about 300° C. “Volatile” means that the material exhibits a vapor pressure of at least about 0.2 mm of mercury at 20° C.
• Personal care product or “personal care composition” means a product or composition suitable for topical application on mammalian keratinous tissue.
• Regular skin condition means improving skin appearance and/or feel, for example, by providing a benefit, such as a smoother appearance and/or feel.
• improving skin condition means effecting a visually and/or tactilely perceptible positive change in skin appearance and feel.
• the benefit may be a chronic or acute benefit and may include one or more of the following: reducing the appearance of wrinkles and coarse deep lines, fine lines, crevices, bumps, and large pores; thickening of keratinous tissue (e.g., building the epidermis and/or dermis and/or sub-dermal layers of the skin, and where applicable the keratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft, to reduce skin, hair, or nail atrophy); increasing the convolution of the dermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete ridges); preventing loss of skin or hair elasticity, for example, due to loss, damage and/or inactivation of functional skin elastin, resulting in such conditions as elastosis, sagging, loss of skin or hair recoil from deformation; reduction in cellulite; change in coloration to the skin, hair, or nails, for example, under-eye circles, blotchiness (e.g., uneven red coloration due to, for example, rosacea), s
• Safety and effective amount means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin or feel benefit, including independently or in combinations the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan).
• “Signs of skin aging” include, but are not limited to, all outward visibly and tactilely perceptible manifestations, as well as any macro- or micro-effects, due to keratinous tissue aging. These signs may result from processes which include, but are not limited to, the development of textural discontinuities such as wrinkles and coarse deep wrinkles, fine lines, skin lines, crevices, bumps, large pores, unevenness or roughness; loss of skin elasticity; discoloration (including undereye circles); blotchiness; sallowness; hyperpigmented skin regions such as age spots and freckles; keratoses; abnormal differentiation; hyperkeratinization; elastosis; collagen breakdown, and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, vascular system (e.g., telangiectasia or spider vessels), and underlying tissues (e.g., fat and/or muscle), especially those proximate to the skin.
• textural discontinuities such as wrinkles and coarse
• Skin means the outermost protective covering of mammals that is composed of cells such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes. Skin includes an outer epidermal layer and an underlying dermal layer. Skin may also include hair and nails as well as other types of cells commonly associated with skin, such as, for example, myocytes, Merkel cells, Langerhans cells, macrophages, stem cells, sebocytes, nerve cells and adipocytes.
• “Skin-care” means regulating and/or improving a skin condition. Some nonlimiting examples include improving skin appearance and/or feel by providing a smoother, more even appearance and/or feel; increasing the thickness of one or more layers of the skin; improving the elasticity or resiliency of the skin; improving the firmness of the skin; and reducing the oily, shiny, and/or dull appearance of skin, improving the hydration status or moisturization of the skin, improving the appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles, improving skin exfoliation or desquamation, plumping the skin, improving skin barrier properties, improve skin tone, reducing the appearance of redness or skin blotches, and/or improving the brightness, radiancy, or translucency of skin.
• Skin-care active means a compound or combination of compounds that, when applied to skin, provide an acute and/or chronic benefit to skin or a type of cell commonly found therein. Skin-care actives may regulate and/or improve skin or its associated cells (e.g., improve skin elasticity; improve skin hydration; improve skin condition; and improve cell metabolism).
• Skin-care composition means a composition that includes a skin-care active and regulates and/or improves skin condition.
• Skin-care product refers to a product that includes a skin-care composition.
• skin-care products include skin creams, moisturizers, lotions, and body washes.
• “Substantially free of” as used herein means that the composition comprises less than 3% (e.g., less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.25%, or even less than 0.1%) by weight of the composition, of the stated ingredient.
• “Substituted” means comprising at least one heteroatomic substituent.
• substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
• Topical application means to apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto the surface of the keratinous tissue.
• the personal care composition disclosed herein is a stand-alone product sometimes referred to as a “finisher” or “finisher composition.” Finishers are generally recognized in the cosmetics industry as compositions that are applied as a topcoat or overlying layer to a basecoat or underlying layer of composition such as a skin care product.
• the present finisher may be used in conjunction with, for example, a moisturizer, conditioner, anti-aging product, skin-lightening product or other skin care product to improve the look and feel characteristics of such products.
• the finisher composition herein is applied as an overlying layer to an underlying layer of skin care product.
• the present finisher may be used in conjunction with an “all-in-one” type skin care product (i.e., a product that includes a skin care active such as glycerin and a powder system), or with a skin care product that does not include a powder system.
• an “all-in-one” type skin care product i.e., a product that includes a skin care active such as glycerin and a powder system
• simply incorporating a powder system into a skin care product may not sufficiently address the undesirable look and feel characteristics associated with one or more components in the product.
• the finisher compositions herein are formulated to have a chroma value of less than 10 (e.g., less than 6 or even less than 3), according to the Chroma method described in more detail below, and a Contrast Ratio (i.e., opacity) of less than 20 (e.g, less than 10 or even less than 6), according to the Contrast Ratio method described in more detail below.
• the chroma and contrast ratio of the composition is controlled at least in part by controlling the type, amount and particle size of the powders in the finisher composition. For example, in addition to providing a suitable type and amount of silicone elastomer powder, it is also important to limit the amount and type of pigment particles and/or non-spherical particles in the finisher composition to provide the desired chroma and contrast ratio.
• the present finisher is an oil-in-water (“O/W”) emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oil phase.
• the finisher also includes a suitable silicone elastomer powder, which can be present in either phase. It may be desirable to disperse the silicone elastomer particles in the oil phase, at least initially, since it is not uncommon for such particles to be generally hydrophobic.
• the aqueous phase of the present finisher composition includes water at an amount of from 20% to 85% (e.g., 30% to 80% or even from 40% to 75%) by weight of the finisher composition.
• the aqueous phase may include components other than water, such as water-soluble moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-microbials, humectants and other water-soluble skin care actives, to impart an increased benefit to skin.
• the oil phase of the finisher includes a non-volatile oil (e.g., non-volatile silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, amides, esters, ethers and mixtures of these).
• a non-volatile oil e.g., non-volatile silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, amides, esters, ethers and mixtures of these.
• the silicone elastomer particles must be at least partially wetted by the non-volatile oil. If the silicone elastomer particles are applied to the target skin surface with no or too little non-volatile oil, the finisher may appear white, and thus any wrinkle or pore masking benefit provided by the finisher composition may be overshadowed by undesirable whiteness.
• non-volatile oil if too much non-volatile oil is present, the skin may appear undesirably shiny, thus reducing or eliminating the skin textural masking benefit of the finisher (i.e., the ability of the finisher to help reduce the appearance of perceived skin flaws related to skin texture, such as wrinkles and pores). Accordingly, it is important to provide a suitable ratio of non-volatile oil to silicone elastomer powder of between 1:10 and 3:2 (e.g., from 1:4 to 1:1 or even from 1:4 to 3:4).
• the non-volatile oil herein should remain on this skin for a relatively long period of time (e.g., more than 2 hours, 4 hours, or even more than 8 hours) without significant evaporation or absorption into the skin. If the oil evaporates, as a volatile oil would, or is absorbed into the skin, unwetted particles may be left on the skin resulting in undesirable whiteness. In addition, it may be desirable to select a non-volatile oil with a low refractive index, since high refractive index oils tend to make the skin appear shiny, which may reduce or even eliminate the skin textural masking benefit of the finisher.
• the oil phase of the finisher composition includes from more than 70% of a non-volatile silicone (e.g., more than 80%, more than 90% or even more than 95%).
• a non-volatile silicone e.g., more than 80%, more than 90% or even more than 95%).
• Non-volatile silicones suitable for use in the oil phase of the emulsion include, for example, polysiloxanes having a viscosity of from about 10 to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25° C. Such polysiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula:
• R is independently selected from hydrogen or C 1-30 straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl, trialkylsiloxy; and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000.
• R is methyl or ethyl.
• Particularly suitable polysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, with viscosities of between 10 cst and 1000 cst, (e.g., between 15 cst to 400 cst or even between 20 cst and 200 cst).
• the average chain length for these preferred dimethicone materials is from 12 to 375 dimethylsiloxane units (e.g., from 20 to 200 or even from 27 to 125).
• dimethicone materials include the DM-Fluid series available from Shin-Etsu, the Vicasil® series sold by Momentive Performance Materials Inc., and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation (also sold as Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluids).
• Other suitable polysiloxanes include those represented by the chemical formula:
• R and R′ are each independently hydrogen or C 1-30 straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, or trialkylsiloxy; and x and y are each integers of 1 to 1,000,000.
• alkyl dimethicones wherein at least R′ is a fatty alkyl (e.g., C 12-22 ).
• a suitable alkyl dimethicone is cetyl dimethicone, wherein R′ is a straight C16 chain and R is methyl, commercially available as 2502 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning.
• Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use herein may include straight, branched, or cyclic alkanes and alkenes. The chain length of such oils may be selected based on desired functional characteristics such as viscosity.
• Suitable non-volatile esters include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols (e.g., mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- and tri-carboxylic acid esters).
• the hydrocarbyl radicals of the esters hereof may include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g., ethoxy or ether linkages, etc.).
• esters include, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, phenylethyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dioctyl malate, dicaprylyl maleate, isononyl isononanoate, propylene glycol dicaprate, diiso
• Suitable non-volatile amides include compounds having an amide functional group while being liquid at 25° C. and insoluble in water.
• Suitable amides include, but are not limited to, N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, butylphthalimide, isopropylphthalimide, and N,N,-diethyltoluamide.
• Other suitable amides are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,872,401.
• Suitable non-volatile ethers include saturated and unsaturated fatty ethers of a polyhydric alcohol, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof.
• Exemplary ethers include, but are not limited to, C 4-20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, and di-C 8-30 alkyl ethers. Suitable examples of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
• the present finisher includes from 10% to 25% by weight of spherical silicone elastomer particles (e.g., from 15% to 23% or even 12% to 20%) dispersed or suspended in a suitable carrier.
• the amount of silicone elastomer powder in the finisher is determined based on the particulate material being in neat form (i.e., not swollen in solvent). It may be desirable to provide spherical silicone elastomer particles that have no tackiness and a rubber hardness (as measured by Durometer A defined in JIS K 6253) in the range of 10 to 90, (e.g., 20 to 80 or even from 25 to 75).
• Suitable silicone particles can be prepared from several silicone materials, i.e. organopolysiloxanes, including cured silicone rubbers and poly(organosilsesquioxane) resins.
• the silicone elastomer particles suitable herein may be coated or uncoated.
• the silicone particles may include silicone resin-coated silicone rubber particles (e.g., silicone rubber particles with polyorganosilsesquioxane attached to their surface).
• Commercially available silicone particles suitable for use in the present invention include: KSP-100, -101, -102, -103, -104, and -105, all from Shin Etsu; and DC9506 and DC 9701 from Dow Corning.
• the silicone elastomer particles herein give the composition a silky or lubricious feel which may offset the undesirable greasiness associated with oils and/or the undesirable tacky feel associated with some humectants.
• the present powder system provides a light scattering effect that provides a smooth look to the skin that is often more natural looking than makeup.
• the powder concentration ranges disclosed herein if too much silicone elastomer powder is present then the look and feel benefits provided by the finisher can level off or even start to decline.
• the powder may no longer remain evenly distributed on the skin surface, which can lead to undesirable whitening (e.g., because powders no longer remain wetted) and/or flaking from the skin (e.g., because the powders no longer suitably adhere to the rest of the product film).
• undesirable whitening e.g., because powders no longer remain wetted
• flaking e.g., because the powders no longer suitably adhere to the rest of the product film.
• too little silicone elastomer powder is present then the undesirable look and/or feel properties of the underlying skin care composition may not be altered as desired.
• the size of the silicone elastomer particles is also important for delivering visible texture benefits on skin.
• the particles are large enough to protrude from the film formed by the skin care product when applied to the skin (i.e., at least a portion of each (or most) silicone elastomer particle(s) extends out of the surface of the film).
• a “rough” film is created, which diffusely reflects light (i.e., creates a bumpy-looking surface) and reduces the surface area of the underlying skin care product film that can be contacted by a user's hand or other object (i.e., reduces the tacky and/or greasy feel of the skin care composition, etc.).
• the number of particles in the finisher composition decreases.
• the number of particles per unit volume is proportional to the inverse of the cube of the particle diameter.
• using relatively large particles at a fixed amount (i.e., weight percent) of powder in the product effectively reduces the number of particles that can be added.
• using smaller particles may increase the number of particles present in the finisher, but may not provide the desired “rough surface” to the product film because a smaller portion of each particle (or even no portion of the particle) extends above the surface of the product film. Consequently, it is important to ensure that the selected particle size is appropriate for the skin care product it is intended to be used with.
• the film thickness of conventional skin care products when used as intended, is generally between 1 and 6 microns.
• the silicone elastomer particles herein may have a median particle size of from 2 ⁇ m to 40 ⁇ m, (e.g., from 3 ⁇ m to 25 ⁇ m or even from 5 ⁇ m to 15 ⁇ m).
• the particle sizes disclosed herein may be readily adapted for use with thicker or thinner films without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.
• Particle size may be determined by any suitable method known in the art, such as by using coulter-counter equipment or the ASTM Designation E20-85, titled “Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy,” ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993.
• the particle sizes disclosed herein are volume-weighted mean particle sizes.
• the silicone elastomer particles herein are substantially spherical (i.e., the majority or even all the silicone elastomer particles in the finisher composition are spherical). It is believed, without being limited by theory, that spherical particles generally provide a more suitable product feel relative to non-spherical particles, at least in part because a spherical particle creates less drag and rolls more smoothly across a surface than a non-spherical particle.
• “spherical” and “sphere” mean particles that have an aspect ratio (i.e., ratio of major axis to minor axis) of from 1:1 to 2:1, (e.g., 1:1 to 2:1, 1:1 to 1.6:1 or even 1:1 to 1.4:1).
• the shape of the particles may be determined by any suitable method known in the art (e.g., optical microscope or electron microscope and suitable image analysis software).
• the finisher may, optionally, include other spherical particles in addition to the spherical silicone elastomer particles herein.
• the finisher may include spherical starch particles such as those disclosed in U.S. Provisional App. 61/927,244.
• the finisher may, optionally, include non-spherical particles (e.g., non-spherical silicone elastomer particles, mica, talc, clay).
• the finisher generally includes less than 4% of non-spherical particles (e.g., less than 3% or even less than 1%).
• non-spherical silicone elastomer particles the indicated percentages are understood to refer to amount of dry elastomer, as opposed to the total amount of elastomer and solvent, used for example for storage and shipping.
• Exemplary non-spherical crosslinked siloxane elastomers include the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook , 11 th ed.) designated dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by a variety of suppliers including Dow CorningTM, General ElectricTM, Shin EtsuTM (KSG 15 and 16), and Grant Industries.
• CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook , 11 th ed.
• Other exemplary non-emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer include the CTFA designated dimethicone crosspolymers including Dow CorningTM; e.g. DC 9040 and DC 9045 which are supplied as a 12.5% elastomers in cyclomethicone, and DC 9041 which is supplied as 16% elastomer in dimethicone).
• finisher compositions herein may generally include less than 1%, (e.g., less than 0.5% or even less than 0.1%) by weight of particles that impart chroma and/or opacity to the composition (e.g., pigment grade titanium dioxide or iron oxide).
• the present finisher is free of pigment and/or other colorants (e.g., lakes and dyes). Exemplary pigments can be found the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook , Thirteenth Edition, 2010.
• the present finisher may also include one or more optional ingredients that are commonly used in personal care compositions, such as volatile oils, emulsifiers, thickeners, skin care actives, combinations of these and the like.
• volatile oils such as volatile oils, emulsifiers, thickeners, skin care actives, combinations of these and the like.
• a volatile oil at up to 30 wt % (e.g., from 5% to 20%).
• the volatile oil may be a volatile silicone, a volatile hydrocarbon oil or a combination of these.
• Volatile silicones include cyclic and linear volatile silicones. A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al. “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”, 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-32 (1976). Suitable cyclic volatile silicones include cyclic dimethyl siloxane chains containing an average of from about 3 to about 5 silicon atoms, preferably from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Exemplary cyclic volatile silicones of varying viscosities include Dow Corning DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, and DC 345; GE Silicones-OSi Specialties Volatile Silicone 7207 and Volatile Silicone 7158; and GE Silicones SF1202.
• Suitable volatile linear silicones include the polydimethylsiloxanes containing an average of from about 2 to about 8 silicon atoms.
• Exemplary linear volatile silicones include the Dow Corning DC 200 series with viscosities of 0.65 cst, 1.0 cst, and 2.0 cst.
• the linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than or equal to about 4 centistokes at 25° C.
• the cyclic materials generally have viscosities of less than about 6 centistokes at 25° C.
• suitable volatile hydrocarbon oils include isododecane (e.g., Permethyl-99A which is available from Presperse Inc.), isodecane, and the C7-C8 through C12-C15 isoparaffins (e.g., Isopar Series available from Exxon Chemicals).
• the finisher composition here may optionally include a humectant such as glycerin; however, the amount should be low enough to enable the finisher to provide the desired look and feel benefit to the underlying skin product.
• the optional humectant is present at an amount of less than 10% or even less than 5%.
• the finisher is free of humectants.
• humectants is polyhydric alcohols such as polyalkylene glycols, alkylene polyols and derivatives of these (e.g., propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof; glycerin, sorbitol; hydroxypropyl sorbitol; erythritol; threitol; pentaerythritol; xylitol; glucitol; mannitol; butylene glycol (e.g., 1,3-butylene glycol); pentylene glycol; hexane triol (e.g., 1,2,6-hexanetriol); ethoxylated glycerine; and propoxylated glycerine).
• polyalkylene glycols such as polyalkylene glycols, alkylene polyols and derivatives of these (e.g., propylene glycol, diprop
• chroma describes color and color intensity.
• color is defined according to a value on the well known CIELAB color system.
• a substantially uniform film of the composition is first created on a standard background.
• the film is created by applying the product to a standard opacity chart (e.g., Form N2A, Leneta Company of Manwah, N.J. or the equivalent thereof, of which the top half is black and the bottom half is white) and then spread on the black area of the opacity chart using a Bird film applicator with a thickness of 254 ⁇ m (e.g., as commercially available from BYK Gardner of Columbia, Md., or the equivalent thereof).
• a standard opacity chart e.g., Form N2A, Leneta Company of Manwah, N.J. or the equivalent thereof, of which the top half is black and the bottom half is white
• a Bird film applicator with a thickness of 254 ⁇ m (e.g., as commercially available from BYK Gardner of Columbia, Md., or the equivalent thereof).
• Chroma is measured by a vector having its origin at the intersection of the red-green and blue-yellow axes and extending outward into the color space defined by the horizontal and vertical axes of the CIELAB color system.
• the length of the vector represents the chroma, and the direction of the vector represents the shade, or hue. The shorter the vector, the less colored is the composition, and the lower the chroma.
• This method provides a suitable means for determining the opacity of a composition.
• the composition is applied to a standard opacity chart (e.g., Form N2A, Leneta Company of Manwah, N.J.) and then spread to form a substantially uniform film using a Bird film applicator with a thickness of 38.1 ⁇ m (e.g., as commercially available from BYK Gardner of Columbia, Md., or the equivalent thereof).
• the film is allowed to dry for 1 hour under conditions of 22° C.+/ ⁇ 1° C., 1 atm.
• the Y tristimulus value (i.e., the XYZ color space of the film) of the product film is measured and recorded.
• the Y tristimulus value is measured in three different areas of the product film over the black section of the opacity chart, and also in three different areas of the product film over the white section of the opacity chart.
• the contrast ratio is calculated as the mathematical average of the three Y tristimulus values over the black areas, divided by the mathematical average of the three Y tristimulus values over the white areas, times 100:
• Contrast ⁇ ⁇ Ratio average ⁇ ⁇ ( Yblack ) average ⁇ ⁇ ( Ywhite ) ⁇ 100
• VAT Visual Attribute Test
• the visible attribute test is a technical panel used to quantify visible benefits of the finisher compositions herein when applied to facial skin. Fifteen to thirty female panelists who are pre-screened to have moderate or higher baseline levels of facial attributes such as fine lines, wrinkles, bumpy surface texture, and pores participate in each VAT study. Two trained expert graders then grade various attributes on each panelist's face both at baseline and 10 minutes after application of 0.45 grams of product to one side of the face. Reductions in facial attributes are then calculated as pre-treatment grade minus the post-treatment grade, and the significance of the differences are determined using ANOVA procedures (Tukey's HSD test).
• Table 1 A hypothetical data table representing typical VAT data calculations for bumpy surface texture is shown in Table 1 below. For fine lines, wrinkles, bumpy surface texture and/or pores, a difference of greater than approximately 0.4 provides consumer noticeable changes.
• the facial attributes evaluated by the expert graders include the following:
• Lines/Wrinkles Severity of the skin on the cheek areas caused by fine lines and wrinkles.
• the cheek area includes that which is below the top of the cheek bone, excluding skin around the mouth.
• Features of this attribute include the number, length, depth, and percent coverage of the lines and wrinkles. Does NOT encompass pores directly, but does include lines which appear to be formed by interconnected pores. Each of the features of this attribute are equally weighted.
• Bumpy Surface Skin unevenness or roughness associated with a “pebbled” or an “orange peel” surface. Based on both the degree of roughness as defined as height and proximity and the percentage of the face covered by the surfaced appearance. Roughness and coverage are equally weighted in the final grade. Does NOT include obviously raised brown moles.
• Pores Coverage and intensity of the facial pores. Coverage is defined as the percentage of the entire cheek areas that possess visible pores (open holes). Intensity is defined as the quantity of pores and the average pore size where larger pores drive higher scores. Both elements of this attribute are equally weighted in the final grade.
• Brightness The brightening feature increases the lightness and luminescence of the face. It may be accompanied by a reduction in red and brown tones.
• compositions in these examples are prepared by first combining the water phase ingredients in a container and mixing until uniform.
• the thickener is added and the water phase is mixed until uniform, and then the pH adjuster, if present, is added and the water phase is again mixed until uniform.
• the oil phase ingredients are combined in a separate container and mixed until uniform.
• the powders are next added to the oil phase and the combination is mixed until uniform.
• the oil/powder phase is added to the water phase and the resulting emulsion is subjected to high shear mixing (e.g., Flacktek Speedmixer, or rotor-stator mill) Table 2 shows the ingredients used to make Examples 1-5.
• Example 1 Example 2
• Example 3 Example 4
• Example 5 Water Phase: Water 55.86 47.36 56.06 58.56 54.25
• Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Methylparaben — — — 0.1 — Symdiol 68 1 0.7 0.7 0.7 — — Glycacil L 2 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 — Phenoxyethanol — — 0.2 0.5 — Glydant Plus Liquid 3 — — — — 0.3 pH Adjustor: Triethanolamine — — — 0.2 — Thickener: Sepigel 305 4 — — 0.6 1.0 — Simulgel INS-100 5 2.0 1.5 1.0 — 0.7 Makimousse-12 6 — — — — — 0.3 Ultrez 10 7 — — — 0.1 — Ultrez 21 8 — — — — 0.1 — Xanthan gum — — — —
• Examples 6 and 7 demonstrate the undesirable effect of high levels of humectant on the appearance attributes of a skin care product.
• the compositions in Examples 6 and 7 contain the same high level of silicone elastomer particles and non-volatile silicone oil, and are otherwise identical except that Example 6 contains 5% glycerin while Example 7 contains 25% glycerin.
• compositions in Examples 6 and 7 are prepared by first combining the water phase ingredients and thickener in a container and mixing until uniform. The oil phase ingredients are combined in a separate container and mixed until uniform. The particulates are next added to the oil phase and the combination is mixed until uniform. Finally, the oil/particulate phase is added to the water phase and the resulting emulsion is subjected to high shear mixing (e.g., Flacktek Speedmixer, or rotor-stator mill) Table 3 shows the ingredients used in the compositions of Examples 6 and 7.
• high shear mixing e.g., Flacktek Speedmixer, or rotor-stator mill
• Example 7 Water Phase: Water 20.84 0.84 Glycerin 5.0 25.0 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Glydant Plus Liquid 1 0.3 0.3 Niacinamide 2.0 2.0 D-panthenol 0.5 0.5 Laureth-4 0.2 0.2 Thickener: Simulgel INS-100 2 2.0 2.0 Oil Phase: Cyclomethicone D5 24.2 22.42 Dimethicone 50 cst 4.39 4.39 DC9045 3 11.0 11.0 Isopropyl lauroyl 7.32 7.32 sarcosinate Polysorbate 60 0.2 0.2 Particles: KSP 102 4 11.0 11.0 KSP 105 5 11.0 11.0 Total: 100% 100% 1 DMDM Hydantoin, Butane-1,3-diol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, water, from Lonza 2 Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane
• compositions of Examples 6 and 7 were then placed in a Visual Attribute Test (VAT) to compare their effectiveness at reducing the appearance of various facial attributes.
• VAT Visual Attribute Test
• Example 7 5% Glycerin 25% Glycerin Cheek Fine Lines 0.40 0.18 Bumpy Surface 0.29 0.09 Pores 0.27 0.09
• Examples 8, 9 and 10 compare the effects of combining a moisturizing composition (i.e., conventional skin care product) with a particulate composition in an “all-in-one” composition versus applying the present finisher composition as a standalone product to an underlying layer of a skin care composition in a two-step process.
• a moisturizing composition i.e., conventional skin care product
• a particulate composition in an “all-in-one” composition
• Example 10 is finisher composition comprising silicone elastomer particles prepared in substantially the same way as described above in Examples 1-5.
• the composition used in Example 8 is prepared by first combining the water phase ingredients and thickener in a container and mixing until uniform. The oil phase ingredients are combined in a separate container and mixed until uniform. The particulates are next added to the oil phase and the combination is mixed until uniform. Finally, the oil/particulate phase is added to the water phase and the resulting emulsion is subjected to high shear mixing (e.g., Flacktek Speedmixer, or rotor-stator mill) The skin care composition of Example 9 is prepared by combining all of the water phase ingredients and pH adjuster, mixing until uniform and warming if necessary. Next, the thickeners are added and the compositions are again mixed until uniform. The ingredients of each composition are shown below in Table 5.
• Example 10 First Layer Inventive All-in-One No Powder Finisher Water Phase: Water 28.91 76.685 47.91 Glycerin 15.0 15.0 — Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.025 0.05 Symdiol 68 1 0.7 0.7 0.7 Glycacil L 2 0.09 0.09 0.09 Niacinamide 5.0 — D-panthenol 0.5 0.5 — Thickener: Simulgel INS-100 3 1.2 2.0 1.2 Oil Phase: Cyclomethicone 24.0 — 20.0 D5 Dimethicone 50 3.75 — 3.75 cst DC9045 4 5.5 — 11.0 Laureth-4 0.3 — 0.3 Particles: DC Elastomer 5 15.0 — 15.0 Total: 100% 100% 100% 1 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, from Symrise 2 Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, PEG-4 laurate, PEG-4 dilau
• the skin care composition in Example 8 is an all-in-one formulation that contains the same glycerin and skin active levels as the skin care composition of Example 9.
• the composition of Example 8 also includes the same powder system as Example 10.
• the finisher compositions in Examples 11, 12 and 13 utilize a starch powder system that contains 20% starch particles and 50 cst dimethicone. While a starch particle system is used in these examples, it is believed that the silicone elastomer powder system of the present invention will generally provide the same results. More importantly, these examples demonstrate the importance of providing a suitable non-volatile oil to powder ratio. A key difference between Examples 11, 12 and 13 is the non-volatile oil to powder ratio. A few very minor adjustments were made to these formulations to ensure that they had similar physical properties and stability, but these adjustments are not expected to impact product performance. Examples 11, 12 and 13 are prepared in substantially the same manner as described above with regard to Examples 1-5. Table 7 shows the ingredients used in Examples 11, 12 13 along with the ingredients used to make the base layer for this test.
• Example 14 This example demonstrates the importance of applying a finisher as an overlying layer to an underlying layer of a skin care product, and not the other way around.
• the composition used in Example 14 is made by first combining the water phase ingredients and mixing until uniform. Next, the thickener is added and the composition is again mixed until uniform. Table 9 shows the ingredients used to make the composition in Example 14.
• Example 14 Water Phase: Water 78.16 Glycerin 15.0 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Symdiol 68 1 0.7 Glycacil L 2 0.09 Niacinamide 5.0 D-panthenol 0.5 Thickener: Makimousse-12 3 0.5 Total: 100% 1 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, from Symrise 2 Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, PEG-4 laurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, and polyethylene glycol, from Lonza 3 Sodium polyacrylate starch, from Kobo Products Inc.
• Example 14 Using the composition in Example 14, along with the base layer composition shown in Table 7 and the finisher of Example 11, a VAT study was conducted to understand the impact of the order in which the layers of the two step systems are applied to skin.
• Table 10 shows the two step systems placed in the VAT study.
• the intended order shown in Table 10 refers to the order wherein the skin care product is placed first, as the underlying layer followed by placement of the finisher as the overlying layer.
• the reverse order refers to placement of the finisher first as the underlying layer, followed by placement of the skin care product as the overlying layer. Note that the base layer composition from Table 7 and the composition of Example 14 differ from one another only in the thickener used, and this difference is not expected to have a significant impact on the optical benefit demonstrated in this test.
• Example 16 contains 3.43% pigments while Example 15 does not contain pigments.
• the pigments used in Example 16 resulted in increased opacity compared to Example 15. Opacity is assessed by measuring contrast ratio (the higher the contrast ratio, the higher the level of opacity).
• Example 16 has a contrast ratio of 34, while example 15 has a contrast ratio of 4.3.
• Examples 15 and 16 are prepared using the same process used for examples 6 and 7 above. Table 12 below shows the ingredients used to make the compositions for Examples 15 and 16.
• Example Example 15 16 Water Phase: Water 21.04 21.04 Glycerin 5.0 5.0 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Glydant Plus Liquid 1 0.3 0.3 Niacinamide 2.0 2.0 D-panthenol 0.5 0.5 Thickener: Simulgel INS-100 2 2.0 2.0 Oil Phase: Cyclomethicone D5 24.2 20.77 Dimethicone 50 cst 4.39 4.39 DC9045 3 11.0 11.0 Isononyl Isononanoate 7.32 7.32 Laureth-4 0.2 0.2 Powders: KSP 102 4 11.0 11.0 KSP 105 5 11.0 11.0 Pigments: Titanium Dioxide 6 — 3.0 Iron Oxides CI 77491 7 — 0.1 Iron Oxides CI 77492 8 — 0.33 Total: 100% 100% 1 DMDM Hydantoin, Butane-1,3-diol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, water, from Lonza 2 Sodium acrylate/
• Example 15 and 16 compositions were then placed in a Visual Attribute Test (VAT) to compare their effectiveness at reducing the appearance of various facial attributes.
• VAT Visual Attribute Test
• Example 17 to 20 This example demonstrates the importance of including the appropriate amount of powder in the finisher.
• the compositions used in Example 17 to 20 are prepared in substantially the same way as described previously for these types of compositions.
• Table 14 shows the ingredients used to make the composition in Examples 17-20. While Examples 18, 19 and 20 include starch particles, it is believed that spherical silicone elastomer particles would yield substantially the same results.
• Table 15 shows the test results from this testing. As seen in Table 15, the appearance benefit improves from 10% powder level to 20% powder level, but the worsens from 20% to 30% powder level.
• the composition of Examples 21-25 include both spherical starch particles and spherical silicone elastomer particles.
• the compositions in these examples are prepared by first combining the water phase ingredients in a container and mixing until uniform. The thickener is added and the water phase is mixed until uniform, and then the pH adjuster, if present, is added and the water phase is again mixed until uniform. The oil phase ingredients are combined in a separate container and mixed until uniform. The powders are next added to the oil phase and the combination is mixed until uniform.

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