US20170067190A1 - Woven fabric and method for manufacturing same - Google Patents

Woven fabric and method for manufacturing same Download PDF

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Publication number
US20170067190A1
US20170067190A1 US14/782,299 US201414782299A US2017067190A1 US 20170067190 A1 US20170067190 A1 US 20170067190A1 US 201414782299 A US201414782299 A US 201414782299A US 2017067190 A1 US2017067190 A1 US 2017067190A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
strands
yarn
shrinkable
leap
warp yarn
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Abandoned
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US14/782,299
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English (en)
Inventor
Yoshiyuki MIYAMAE
Kazuyoshi TAKATSU
Manabu Nakatani
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Miyake Design Jimusho D/b/a Miyake Design Studio KK
Original Assignee
Miyake Design Jimusho D/b/a Miyake Design Studio KK
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Publication date
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Assigned to KABUSHIKIKAISHA MIYAKE DESIGN JIMUSHO D/B/A MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO reassignment KABUSHIKIKAISHA MIYAKE DESIGN JIMUSHO D/B/A MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: MIYAMAE, Yoshiyuki, NAKATANI, MANABU, TAKATSU, Kazuyoshi
Publication of US20170067190A1 publication Critical patent/US20170067190A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • D03D15/04—
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same.
  • Some garments such as skirts, dresses, gowns, jackets, and pants have pleats and other types of embellishments.
  • a method for interweaving a yarn suitable for easy formation of a pleat and a yarn not suitable for easy formation of a pleat into a fabric and then creating a pleat using this woven fabric PTL 1, PTL 2.
  • the entire garment includes the pleated area with a high percentage of thermoplastic fiber and the non-pleated area with a low percentage of thermoplastic fiber. PTL 1, therefore, can make the seam between the pleated area and the non-pleated area less noticeable.
  • either warp yarn or weft yarn is taken as appropriate for forming a pleat while the other is taken as inappropriate for forming a pleat, and a woven fabric is produced using these yarn.
  • This woven fabric is folded along a predetermined fold line into a pleat, which is then selected. This process can accentuate the borderline between the pleated area and the non-pleated area.
  • Both of these conventional techniques mix the yarn suitable for easy formation of a pleat and the yarn not suitable for easy formation of a pleat.
  • a predetermined section of the woven fabric is thermally or mechanically treated in order to forcibly create a fold line at a second stage. Therefore, the created pleats are likely to wear out or disappear after repeated wear or after getting wet in the rain or washed.
  • the conventional woven fabrics are merely manufactured in a way that embellishments such as pleats can easily be formed afterwards, and do not have the structure for forming embellishments themselves.
  • the present invention was contrived in view of the foregoing problems, and an object thereof is to provide a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are configured to be able to form embellishments such as pleats.
  • a woven fabric according to one aspect of the present invention has: a plurality of strands of warp yarn; and a plurality of strands of weft yarn interlaced with the plurality of strands of warp yarn, wherein some of the plurality of strands of warp yarn are strands of shrinkable warp yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over, and a plurality of the first leap portions are positioned in a first predetermined pattern.
  • some of the plurality of strands of weft yarn are strands of shrinkable weft yarn that shrink in a lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process, the strands of shrinkable weft yarn have, at least in one section in the lengthwise direction, a second leap portion where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn are leaped over, and a plurality of the second leap portions are positioned in a second predetermined pattern.
  • the woven fabric according to a preferred embodiment further has a base weave that is obtained by interlacing the other strands of warp yarn and the other strands of weft yarn, wherein the first predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of weft yarn leaped over by the other strands of warp yarn in the base weave.
  • the second predetermined number is set to be greater than the number of the other strands of warp yarn leaped over by the other strands of weft yarn in the base weave.
  • the first leap portion is either a front-side first leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side first leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric
  • the second leap portion is either a front-side second leap portion passing across the front side of the woven fabric or a rear-side second leap portion passing across the rear side of the woven fabric
  • the front-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern
  • the rear-side first leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side first pattern included in the first predetermined pattern
  • the front-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined front-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern
  • the rear-side second leap portion is positioned in a predetermined rear-side second pattern included in the second predetermined pattern.
  • the predetermined front-side first pattern and the predetermined rear-side first pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side first leap portion and the rear-side first leap portion are close to each other, and the predetermined front-side second pattern and the predetermined rear-side second pattern are set in such a manner that the front-side second leap portion and the rear-side second leap portion are close to each other.
  • the strands of shrinkable warp yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of warp yarn in a third predetermined pattern, and the strands of shrinkable weft yarn are positioned between a plurality of the other strands of weft yarn in a fourth predetermined pattern.
  • the strands of shrinkable warp yarn form a constant first shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to the specific process
  • the strands of shrinkable weft yarn form a constant second shrunk portion by shrinking in the lengthwise direction thereof more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process
  • a first fold line portion is formed along a weft direction by arranging a plurality of the first shrunk portions in a continuous manner
  • a second fold line portion is formed along a warp direction by arranging a plurality of the second shrunk portions in a continuous manner
  • a third fold line portion is formed along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction by arranging the plurality of first shrunk portions and the plurality of second shrunk portions in a predetermined direction.
  • first shrunk portions and the second shrunk portions are stretchable in response to external force.
  • a method for manufacturing a weave fabric has the steps of: positioning, between a plurality of strands of warp yarn and in a first predetermined pattern, shrinkable warp yarn that shrinks more than the other strands of warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of weft yarn are leaped over; and positioning, between a plurality of strands of weft yarn and in a second predetermined pattern, shrinkable weft yarn that shrinks more than the other strands of weft yarn when subjected to the specific process, in such a manner as to form at least one second leap portion where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of warp yarn are leaped over.
  • a woven fabric has: a first structure woven with a plurality of strands of warp yarn and a plurality of strands of weft yarn interlaced with the plurality of strands of warp yarn; and a second structure formed of a plurality of strands of shrinkable warp yarn and a plurality of strands of shrinkable weft yarn and stacked by being weaved into the first structure, wherein the strands of shrinkable warp yarn have a first leap portion where a first predetermined number of adjacent strands of the weft yarn are leaped over, the first leap portion being positioned in a first pattern, the strands of shrinkable weft yarn have a second leap portion where a second predetermined number of adjacent strands of the warp yarn are leaped over, the second leap portion being positioned in a second pattern, the strands of shrinkable warp yarn form a first shrunk portion against resilience of the first structure by shrinking in a lengthwise direction thereof
  • the strands of shrinkable warp yarn are positioned between the plurality of strands of warp yarn in a third predetermined pattern, and the strands of shrinkable weft yarn are positioned between the plurality of strands of weft yarn in a fourth predetermined pattern.
  • first leap portion and the second leap portion are formed so as to be located on the front side and/or the rear side of the first structure.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn shrinks significantly, in which the side with the first leap portion forms a valley, while the other side of the first leap portion protrudes to form a mountain.
  • an embellishment is formed in the woven fabric.
  • by positioning the shrinkable weft yarn that has the second leap portion in at least one section thereof more embellishments can be formed in the woven fabric. Because embellishments are incorporated in the woven fabric, embellishments that are resistant to wearing and washing can be formed.
  • FIG. 1 is a front view of a garment with embellishments such as pleats and linear patterns.
  • FIG. 2 shows an example of a weave diagram of a woven fabric.
  • FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram showing schematic structures and the like of normal warp yarn, normal weft yarn, shrinkable warp yarn, and shrinkable weft yarn.
  • FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional diagram showing how shrinkage of the shrinkable yarn forms a mountain and a valley as physical embellishments in the woven fabric.
  • FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mountains and valleys are formed on the front and rear sides of the woven fabric.
  • FIG. 6 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship among formation patterns A to C of the embellishments to be formed in the woven fabric, information on which one of the warp yarn or the weft yarn to use to form the leap portions, and the shapes of the embellishments obtained with the leap portions.
  • FIG. 7 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the shapes of the embellishments and a method for positioning the shrinkable yarn for realizing the shapes.
  • FIG. 8 is a weave diagram of an area A where an oblique embellishment is formed.
  • FIG. 9 is a weave diagram of an area B where a vertical embellishment is formed.
  • FIG. 10 is a weave diagram of an area C where a horizontal embellishment is formed.
  • FIG. 11 is an explanatory diagram showing a schematic configuration of a weaving machine.
  • FIG. 12 is a flowchart showing the method for manufacturing the woven fabric.
  • FIG. 13 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the shapes of embellishments and the formation patterns for realizing the shapes, according to a second example.
  • FIG. 14 is an explanatory diagram showing an example of making the embellishment formation patterns finer, according to a third example.
  • these embodiments use shrinkable warp yarn that shrinks in a lengthwise direction more significantly than the other warp yarn when subjected to a specific process, and shrinkable weft yarn that shrinks in the lengthwise direction more significantly than the other weft yarn when subjected to a specific process.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn and shrinkable weft yarn each leap over a predetermined number strands of yarn in a different direction, at one or more sections in the lengthwise direction.
  • These leap portions may be provided on the front side or the rear side of the woven fabric. A plurality of the leap portions can be provided on the front side and the rear side.
  • shrunk portions Subjecting the woven fabric to heat or other specific processes results in shrinkage of the shrinkable warp yarn, the shrinkable weft yarn and hence the leap portions, forming shrunk portions.
  • Making the shrunk portions continuous can create linear embellishments such as straight lines and curved lines.
  • the shrunk portions keep the shapes thereof constant. By “constant,” it means that the shrunk portions do not disappear by normal wear or washing and therefore can always be recognized by a user.
  • the shrunk portions can keep the shape thereof constant against the resilience of a base weave, the shrunk portions can shrink when applied with a certain level of external force.
  • FIG. 1 is a front view of a garment 1 made of a woven fabric according to the present embodiment.
  • the garment 1 is one application example of a woven fabric 10 (see FIG. 2 and the like) according to the present embodiment, such as a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a pair of pants, a shirt, an apron, a glove, a sock, and the like.
  • the woven fabric 10 according to the present embodiment can be applied to materials other than the garment 1 , such as bags, wrapping cloths, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, various covers, ties, ribbons, wallets, card holders, cushions, and umbrellas.
  • the garment 1 is produced by joining, for example, a front piece 2 , a back piece 3 , and sleeves 4 .
  • the front piece 2 , the back piece 3 , and the sleeves 4 may be formed separately and then stitched together.
  • the front piece 2 , the back piece 3 , and the sleeves 4 may be woven at the same time while having these pieces connected to one another, and at the end the parts that let the human body parts pass through out of the connected parts may be cut out.
  • the garment 1 has a plurality of embellishment elements 5 A to 5 F. Similarly to embroidered patterns or paint, these embellishment elements 5 A to 5 F are not provided to the garment 1 afterwards, but these are physical embellishments that are provided in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning, the material for the garment 1 . In the present embodiment, examples of such physical embellishments that are prepared in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning include linear patterns and pleats.
  • the embellishment elements 5 A to 5 F are generically referred to as “embellishment elements 5 ,” hereinafter, if they are not to be discriminated from one another.
  • the embellishment elements 5 are linear patterns, pleats and the like.
  • the linear patterns here do not mean planar patterns such as base patterns, but are three-dimensional linear patterns that are obtained by changing the shape of a part of a weave into a three-dimensional concave or convex shape.
  • the shapes and locations of the embellishment elements 5 displayed in the garment 1 are merely exemplary; thus, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the configuration shown in FIG. 1 .
  • the embellishment element 5 A extending horizontally is formed in each shoulder portion of the garment 1 .
  • the wavelike embellishment element 5 B is formed in the section from the chest to the waistline of the garment 1 .
  • the grid-like embellishment element 5 C is formed in the section from the waist down of the garment 1 .
  • the arc-shaped embellishment element 5 D is formed in the hem of the garment 1 .
  • the circular embellishment element 5 E and the linear embellishment element 5 F are formed in each sleeve of the garment 1 .
  • FIG. 2 shows an example of the weaves of the woven fabric 10 , the material for the garment 1 .
  • FIG. 2 shows an example of incorporating a stretchy texture only in the vertical direction of the woven fabric 10 .
  • An example of incorporating the stretchy texture in the horizontal direction of the woven fabric 10 is described hereinafter with reference to FIGS. 8 and 9 .
  • a base weave is formed by interlacing normal warp yarn 11 and normal weft yarn 12 by a predetermined rule.
  • Examples of the base weave include a variety of weaves such as a plain weave and a twill weave.
  • the normal warp yarn 11 and the normal weft yarn 12 are made of, for example, polyester.
  • the normal warp yarn 11 is an example of the “other strands of warp yarn” or “strands of warp yarn”
  • the normal weft yarn is an example of the “other strands of weft yarn” or “strands of weft yarn.”
  • the material for the normal yarns is not limited to polyester. Yarns made of other materials may be used as well.
  • the stretchy texture is stacked on the base weave.
  • the stretchy texture is a weave that is formed from a yarn that shrinks when subjected to a specific process. Therefore, the stretchy texture is formed from a shrinkable warp yarn 21 and/or a shrinkable weft yarn 22 .
  • the direction in which the stretchy texture shrinks and the method for forming the stretchy texture are described hereinafter with reference to FIG. 6 .
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is configured with, for example, a core 211 and a covering yarn 212 wrapped around the outer circumference of the core 211 .
  • the shrinkable weft yarn 22 is configured with, for example, a core 221 and a covering yarn 222 wrapped around the outer circumference of the core 221 .
  • a material that shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction when heated at a predetermined temperature, such as polyurethane, is used for the cores 211 , 221 .
  • a material similar to that of the normal yarns, such as polyester, is used for the covering yarns 212 , 222 .
  • the same material can be used for the covering yarns 212 , 222 and for the yarns 11 , 12 used in the base weave, to eliminate the sense of disharmony, resulting in a natural base pattern.
  • the material for the normal yarns 11 , 12 and the material for the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 do not have to be the same and may be different from each other.
  • the material for the normal warp yarn 11 and normal weft yarn 12 may be changed, and the material for the core 211 of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the core 221 of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 may be changed.
  • the material for the covering yarn 212 of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the covering yarn 222 of the shrinkable weft yarn may be changed as well.
  • the thicknesses and colors of the yarns 11 , 12 , 21 , 22 can be changed.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 may be made of a plurality of different materials or a single material, as described above.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 may have the property of shrinking more significantly than a yarn configuring the base weave, when subjected to the “specific process,” such as a heat treatment. Conversely, the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 do not shrink before subjected to the specific process. Such property enables stable and accurate weaving of the woven fabric 10 using both the normal yarns 11 , 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 . Note that the materials, the thicknesses, the configuration of the base weave, and the like can be determined accordingly.
  • the base weave of the woven fabric 10 shown in FIG. 2 is a plain weave in which the normal warp yarn and the normal weft yarn 12 are aligned. Some of a plurality of strands of warp yarn configuring the plain weave are strands of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 .
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in place of the normal warp yarn 11 at six-strand intervals.
  • the stretchy texture formed from the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is stacked by being woven into the base texture.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands of weft yarn 12 at predetermined positions in accordance with a first pattern defined based on the design of the garment 1 . Leaping over the other intersecting yarn is also called “to slide a yarn.”
  • the parts where the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over the weft yarns 12 are leap portions 21 J described as “first leap portions.”
  • the number of strands of the weft yarn 12 that are leaped over by the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is set to be greater than the number of strands of the weft yarns 12 that are continuously leaped over by the warp yarn 11 in the base weave.
  • the number of these strands of yarn can be set in accordance with the sizes or strengths of the embellishments.
  • the first predetermined number can be set to be several times greater than the first reference number.
  • the leap portions 21 J include a front-side leap portion 21 J( 1 ) passing across the front side of the woven fabric 10 and a rear-side leap portion 21 J( 2 ) passing across the rear side of the woven fabric 10 .
  • a single strand of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least one leap portion 21 J.
  • one strand of shrinkable warp yarn 21 has at least one front-side leap portion 21 J( 1 ) and at least one rear-side leap portion 21 J( 2 ) (a plurality of each of the leap portions, in actuality).
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 shrinks significantly in the lengthwise direction, as shown by the arrows F 1 .
  • the front-side leap portion 21 J( 1 ) shrinks, the rear side of the front-side leap portion 21 J( 1 ) protrudes.
  • Such shrinkage of a plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21 J( 1 ) results in the formation of a fold line resembling a horizontal groove.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 is used in columns a and g.
  • Cells a 2 to a 6 and cells g 2 to g 6 represent the front-side leap portions 21 J( 1 ).
  • Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent front-side leap portions 21 J( 1 ) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a 4 , b 4 , c 4 , d 4 , e 4 , f 4 , g 4 , and h 4 ), with, for example, the weft yarn 12 in the 4th line configuring the bottom of the valley.
  • Cells a 13 to a 17 and cells g 12 to g 17 represent the rear-side leap portions 21 J( 2 ).
  • Shrinkage of the plurality of adjacent rear-side leap portions 21 J( 2 ) results in the formation of a fold line (a line connecting a 15 , b 15 , c 15 , d 15 , e 15 , f 15 , g 15 , and h 15 ), with, for example, the weft yarn 12 in the 15th line configuring the peak.
  • FIG. 4 schematically shows changes that occur when the shrinkable yarns shrink.
  • FIG. 4( a ) is a cross-sectional diagram of an enlargement of the leap portion 21 J of the shrinkable yarn 21 , showing a state prior to a heat treatment.
  • the direction of the warp yarn is the horizontal direction of FIG. 4 .
  • the front-side leap portion and the rear-side leap portion are not discriminated from each other.
  • FIG. 4( b ) shows a state that results after the heat treatment.
  • shrinkage of the leap portion 21 J results in downward protrusion of the weft yarn 12 in the vicinity of the center of the leap portion 21 J, forming a shrunk portion 23 .
  • FIG. 5 shows how the front-side leap portion 21 J( 1 ) and the rear-side leap portion 21 J( 2 ) shrink. Because the leap portion 21 J( 1 ) forming a valley and the leap portion 21 J( 2 ) forming a mountain are located relatively close to each other, as shown in this FIG. 5 the areas where the leap portions 21 J( 1 ), 21 J( 2 ) are located change significantly in a three-dimensional manner. As a result, a three-dimensional appearance beyond a simple pattern can be achieved.
  • FIG. 6 A method for forming the embellishment elements 5 in different directions in the woven fabric 10 is now described with reference to FIG. 6 .
  • the upper part of FIG. 6 shows formation patterns A, B, C for the embellishment elements 5 .
  • the formation pattern A is for forming an oblique embellishment element 5
  • the formation pattern B for a vertical (Y-direction) embellishment element 5
  • the formation pattern C for a horizontal (X-direction) embellishment element 5 .
  • the lower part of FIG. 6 shows a table of the relationship between the locations of the leap portions and the shapes of the embellishment elements 5 obtained by shrinkage of the leap portions, with respect to the formation patterns A to C of different directions.
  • the locations where the leap portions are formed vary depending on the angles of the formation patterns A.
  • the formation patterns A are illustrated as a single formation pattern A.
  • a plurality of leap portions are positioned vertically (the direction of the warp yarn) and horizontally (the direction of the weft yarn), as shown by the formation pattern A.
  • the angle of the embellishment element 5 e.g., the angle with respect to the warp yarn 11 or the weft yarn 12
  • the angle of the embellishment element 5 can be changed by adjusting the number of vertical leap portions and the number of horizontal leap portions.
  • a vertical embellishment element 5 In order to form a vertical embellishment element 5 , a plurality of leap portions 22 J extending along the weft yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern B.
  • the embellishment element 5 extending vertically can be obtained by vertically arranging the leap portions 22 J that slide horizontally.
  • a horizontal embellishment element 5 a plurality of leap portions 21 J extending along the direction of the warp yarn are positioned, as shown by the formation pattern C.
  • the embellishment element 5 extending in the horizontal can be obtained by horizontally arranging the leap portions 22 J that slide vertically.
  • the formation patterns are associated with eight areas that are divided every 45 degrees, but the angles of the areas do not have to be equal.
  • various oblique embellishments can be created only with the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment, or various embellishments can be created with a more detailed formation pattern.
  • FIG. 7 shows a method for forming embellishments in various shapes by combining a plurality of embellishment elements 5 of different formation patterns.
  • a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the upper and lower sides extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C.
  • embellishment elements configuring the upper and lower sides can be obtained.
  • a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending vertically based on the vertical formation pattern B. As a result, embellishment elements configuring the right and left sides can be obtained.
  • a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the base extending horizontally based on the horizontal formation pattern C.
  • a plurality of embellishment elements 5 are formed in the right and left sides extending obliquely toward the apex are formed based on the oblique formation pattern A. Because the angles of the right side and the left side are different, the locations where the leap portions are formed vary; however, the explanation thereof is omitted.
  • a circular shape can be simulated by properly arranging the formation patterns A to C.
  • an embellishment element in substantially a circular shape can be obtained by positioning embellishment elements of the horizontal formation pattern C on the top and bottom of the circle, embellishment elements of the vertical formation pattern B on the left and right sides of the circle, and embellishment elements of the oblique formation pattern A in diagonal positions.
  • FIG. 8 shows a weave of the oblique formation pattern A.
  • FIG. 8( a ) shows a mountain weave 10 A 1
  • FIG. 8( b ) a valley weave 10 A 2 . Note that that FIG. 8( a ) and FIG. 8( b ) correspond to each other to some extent but not completely. The same applies to FIGS. 9 and 10 .
  • the “mountain” here means the shape of a part protruding from the surrounding areas of the weave.
  • the “mountain” means a convex shape in which the weave 10 A 1 protrudes toward the observer.
  • the “valley” here means the shape of a part depressing from the surrounding areas of the weave.
  • the “valley” means a concave shape in which the weave 10 A 2 depresses toward the page space (the side opposite to the observer).
  • the vertical leap portion 21 J and the horizontal leap portion 22 J are positioned in the weave 10 A 2 , depending on the angle (orientation) of the embellishment element.
  • An oblique embellishment element is obtained in accordance with the combination of the vertical leap portion 21 J and the horizontal leap portion 22 J.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 are partially exposed in parts of the mountain weave 10 A 1 , these exposed parts are not the leap portions 21 J, 22 J.
  • the leap portions 21 J, 22 J are designed to shrink when heated and are the areas in which a predetermined number of strands of yarn in a different direction are leaped over.
  • the partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 do not leap over a predetermined number of strands of yarn of a different direction, but are pressed down by the normal yarns 11 , 12 .
  • the yarn 21 is interlaced with the normal weft yarn 12 (a 2 , a 3 , a 5 , a 6 ) and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated. Therefore, the shrinkable warp yarn 21 passing across the column a does not have the leap portion 21 J, as far as FIG. 8( a ) shows.
  • FIG. 9 shows a weave of the vertical formation pattern B.
  • FIG. 9( a ) shows a mountain weave 10 B 1
  • FIG. 9( b ) shows a valley weave 10 B 2 .
  • FIG. 9( a ) showing the mountain weave 10 B 1 , does not have any leap portion 22 J, as described with reference to FIG. 8( a ) .
  • the leap portions are formed in the valley weave.
  • Partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 are interlaced with the normal yarns 11 , 12 and therefore are prevented from deforming when heated.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 equivalent to a pair of strands of the weft yarn is exposed in a continuous manner at a 1 and a 2 , as well as at a 4 and a 5 , but is interlaced with the weft yarn 12 passing across the third line and the weft yarn 12 passing across the sixth line, and therefore is prevented from deforming when heated.
  • FIG. 9( b ) a plurality of horizontal leap portions 22 J are positioned vertically in the valley weave 10 B 2 .
  • FIG. 9( b ) shows a leap portion 22 J containing a 1 , b 1 , c 1 , a leap portion 22 J containing e 1 , f 1 , g 1 , h 1 , and a leap portion 22 J containing b 4 , c 4 , d 4 , e 4 , f 4 .
  • Each of these leap portions 22 J leaps over five strands of the warp yarn.
  • the plurality of leap portions 22 J shown in the first line are shown only partially for the convenience of illustration.
  • FIG. 10 shows a weave of the horizontal formation pattern C.
  • FIG. 10( a ) shows a mountain weave 10 C 1
  • FIG. 10( b ) shows a valley weave 10 C 2 .
  • a leap portion 21 J that leaps over at least six strands of the weft yarn 12 and at least six strands of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 is formed in the column f.
  • the oblique, vertical, and horizontal embellishment elements can be obtained by configuring the weaves in which the leap portions are positioned in a predetermined pattern, as described with reference to FIGS. 8 to 10 . Then, various shapes such as rectangular shapes, triangular shapes, and circular shapes can be expressed by using a plurality of combination elements of the embellishments formed in the different directions.
  • the woven fabric 10 can be deformed significantly by positioning the front-side leap portions and the rear-side leap portions close to each other. Accordingly, embellishments such as pleats can be realized.
  • a method for manufacturing the woven fabric 10 is schematically explained with reference to FIGS. 11 and 12 .
  • a woven fabric generation system for generating the woven fabric can be configured with, for example, a design data generating device 110 , an automatic weaving machine 120 connected to the design data generating device 110 by a communication network CN, and a heating device 130 .
  • the design data generating device 110 is a computer that determines the configurations (weaves) of the woven fabric 10 based on the design of the garment 1 and outputs the configurations in the form of design data.
  • the design data generating device 110 may be connected to the automatic weaving machine 120 without having the communication network CN therebetween.
  • the automatic weaving machine 120 may be provided with, for example, a function for generating the design data.
  • the automatic weaving machine 120 is configured with, for example, a warp yarn feeder 121 , a weft yarn feeder 122 , a shrinkable warp yarn feeder 123 , a shrinkable weft yarn feeder 124 , and a weaving machine controller 125 .
  • the warp yarn feeder 121 feeds the warp yarn 11 .
  • the weft yarn feeder 122 feeds the weft yarn 12 .
  • the shrinkable warp yarn feeder 123 feeds the shrinkable warp yarn 21 .
  • the shrinkable weft yarn feeder 124 feeds the shrinkable weft yarn 22 .
  • the weaving machine controller 125 controls the feeders 121 to 124 .
  • the weaving machine controller 125 controls the feeders 121 to 124 based on the data received through the communication network CN.
  • the data generated by the design data generating device 110 can be input to the weaving machine controller 125 without using the communication network CN.
  • the data can be stored in a storage medium such as a flash memory device, and then the data can be input to the weaving machine controller 125 by connecting the storage medium to the weaving machine controller 125 .
  • the heating device 130 is a device for performing a heat treatment, an example of the “specific process,” on the woven fabric 10 .
  • the heating device 130 may be installed in the vicinity of the automatic weaving machine 120 or away from the automatic weaving machine 120 .
  • the embellishment elements 5 emerge as a result of heating the woven fabric that physically incorporates the embellishment structures with the heating device 130 .
  • the heating device 130 can be considered as not being included in the woven fabric generation system.
  • the specific process is not limited to a heat treatment.
  • a cooling treatment, a pressure treatment, a decompression treatment, a process for irradiating light or an electric wave of a specific wavelength, a process for applying an ultrasonic wave, a process for applying vibrations, a process for exposing the woven fabric to gas or liquid having a specific component, or any other processes that can cause the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 to shrink more than the normal yarns may be performed.
  • any method can be used to heat the woven fabric.
  • the woven fabric may be heated with, for example, high-temperature steam, an infrared ray, warm air, and the like.
  • a designer determines the design of the garment 1 (S 1 ). In so doing, the designer can also determine embellishments such as pleats and linear patterns.
  • the locations for the formation patterns A to C are calculated in order to realize the determined embellishments, and weaves are determined in view of the locations of the formation patterns and the other considerations such as a base pattern (S 2 ).
  • the configurations of the weaves can automatically be determined using the design data generating device 110 .
  • the data representing the determined configurations of the weaves are transmitted from the design data generating device 110 to the weaving machine controller 125 of the weaving machine 120 through the communication network CN.
  • the weaving machine controller 125 generates the woven fabric 10 by controlling the feeders 121 to 124 based on the received data (S 3 ).
  • the woven fabric 10 is manufactured by weaving the normal warp yarn 11 and weft yarn 12 , a plurality of strands of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 that configure the first leap portions 21 J in the first predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of the normal warp yarn 11 in the third predetermined pattern, and a plurality of strands of shrinkable weft yarn 22 that configure the second leap portion 22 J in the second predetermined pattern and are positioned between strands of the normal weft yarn 12 in the fourth predetermined pattern.
  • the first predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of weft yarn to be leaped over by the vertical leap portion 21 J and a location where the leap portion 21 J emerges.
  • the second predetermined pattern defines the number of strands of warp yarn to be leaped over by the horizontal leap portion 22 J and a location where the leap portion 22 J emerges.
  • the third predetermined pattern defines a location where the shrinkable warp yarn 21 passes across.
  • the fourth predetermined pattern defines a location where the shrinkable weft yarn 22 passes across.
  • step S 5 demonstrates a woven state of the finished woven fabric but is not exactly a manufacturing step. For this reason, step S 5 is shown by a two-dot chain line.
  • the three-dimensional appearance of the woven fabric 10 is produced by generating the embellishment elements 5 with a heat treatment and by connecting the embellishment elements 5 such as pleats.
  • the embellishment elements that emerge by being heated are provided in the woven fabric 10 . Therefore, unlike the conventional techniques of using highly shrinkable yarns and mechanically and thermally forming pleats by means of an iron or the like, stable embellishments resistant to wearing and washing can be obtained.
  • the mountain weave and the valley weave can be positioned close to each other as shown in FIG. 5 , bringing about a greater deformation in the woven fabric 10 .
  • the effects of the desired three-dimensional embellishments can be achieved by adjusting the configurations of the mountain and valley.
  • a second example is now described with reference to FIG. 13 .
  • the following examples, including the present example, correspond to modifications of the first example. Therefore, the differences with the first example are mainly described.
  • various shapes of embellishment elements are formed using only the formation pattern A which is used for forming an oblique embellishment element as described with reference to FIGS. 6 and 8 .
  • weaves for forming the embellishment elements of the formation pattern A are arranged into a rectangular shape to obtain a rectangular embellishment.
  • the shrinkable yarns 21 , 22 are positioned vertically and horizontally, as shown in FIG. 8 . Therefore, basically the embellishment elements are formed obliquely in accordance with a resultant force of the force of shrinkage of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 and the force of shrinkage of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 .
  • continuously positioning weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A in the base weave as shown in FIG. 13 results in the formation of embellishment elements along the direction in which the weaves are positioned.
  • a certain weave corresponding to the formation pattern A shrinks to form an embellishment element that extends along the direction of another adjacent weave (a weave corresponding to the formation pattern A).
  • a weave corresponding to the formation pattern A For convenience, the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern A are referred to as “weaves(A)” hereinafter.
  • the weaves(A) shrink both vertically and horizontally.
  • the vertical shrinkable warp yarn 21 extends in a continuous manner, has a way out so to speak, and therefore does not shrink much.
  • the horizontal shrinkable weft yarn 22 is not related directly to the shrinkable weft yarn 22 of another adjacent vertical weave(A), and therefore shrink significantly almost as expected. Therefore, even by simply arranging vertically the weaves(A) for forming the oblique embellishment elements, the weaves(A) can be shrunk horizontally, resulting in a vertical embellishment.
  • the shrinkable weft yarn 22 has a way out and therefore does not shrink much.
  • the shrinkable warp yarn 21 shrinks significantly almost as expected. Therefore, even by simply arranging the weaves(A) horizontally, the weaves(A) can be shrunk vertically, resulting in a horizontal embellishment.
  • the weaves(A) are arranged into a triangular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves(A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A).
  • the weaves(A) are arranged into a circular shape. Therefore, each of the weaves(A) shrinks in such a manner as to generate an embellishment element along the direction of the other adjacent weave(A).
  • the present example configured as described above also provides the same operational effects as the first example.
  • the present example can also obtain any shapes of embellishments only by using the formation pattern A used for forming an oblique embellishment element.
  • a third example is now described with reference to FIG. 14 .
  • the first example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the three types of formation patterns A to C.
  • the second example has described obtaining any shapes of embellishments by using the formation pattern A alone.
  • the third example (the present example) obtains any shapes of embellishments by using more formation patterns.
  • weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are arranged vertically.
  • the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern B are referred to as “weaves(B).”
  • the weaves(B) each have only the second leap portion 22 J in which the shrinkable weft yarns 22 slide across a predetermined number of strands of warp yarns 11 , 21 .
  • the weaves(B) that only have the leap portions 21 J of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 but do not have the leap portions 22 J of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 are each expressed as “warp 0 , weft 100 .” Such expression represents the composition of a leap portion of a weave with a stretchy texture. The numerical values are expressed in percent.
  • a vertical embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(B) vertically in a continuous manner.
  • weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are arranged horizontally.
  • the weaves corresponding to the formation pattern C are referred to as “weaves(C).”
  • the weaves(C) each have the first leap portion 21 J in which the shrinkable warp yarn 21 leaps over a predetermined number of strands of the weft yarns 12 , 22 , as described with reference to FIG. 10 .
  • the weaves(C) that only have the leap portions 22 J of the shrinkable weft yarn 22 but do not have the leap portions 21 J of the shrinkable warp yarn 21 are each expressed as “warp 100 , weft 0 .”
  • a horizontal embellishment can be obtained by arranging a plurality of weaves(C) horizontally in a continuous manner.
  • the weaves(A) are used in which the vertical leap portions 21 J and the horizontal leap portions 22 J are positioned in a dispersed manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
  • the angle of the direction heading straight up represents a reference angle of degrees
  • the angle of the right lateral direction is 90 degrees
  • the angle of the direction heading straight down is 180 degrees
  • the angle of the left lateral direction is 270 degrees.
  • the weaves(A) having both the vertical leap portions 21 J and the horizontal leap portions 22 J are used.
  • the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) are (warp 50 , weft 50 ).
  • the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) gradually change between (warp 0 , weft 100 ) and (warp 100 , weft 0 ) in accordance with the angle of the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
  • compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) may be changed at every predetermined angle of, for example, 1 degree, degrees, 10 degrees, or the like.
  • the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) may be changed with respect to each basic pattern of the base weaves 11 , 12 .
  • the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves(A) can be changed in the following manner: (warp 1 , weft 99 ), (warp 2 , weft 98 ), (warp 3 , weft 97 ), (warp 4 , weft 96 ) . . .
  • compositions may be changed more roughly, such as (warp 10 , weft 90 ), (warp 20 , weft 80 ), (warp 30 , weft 70 ).
  • the present example configured as described above provides the same operational effects as the first example. Moreover, in the present example, finer embellishments can be generated because the compositions of the leap portions of the weaves with a stretchy function are changed gradually in a stepwise manner in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed.
  • the woven fabric 10 incorporates, as a component thereof, embellishments that emerge when subjected to the specific process. Therefore, even when the compositions of the leap portions are controlled in detail in accordance with the direction in which an embellishment is formed as in the present embodiment, a constant embellishment can be generated promptly, in comparison to forming an embellishment afterwards by mechanically compressing or ironing the woven fabric.
  • the present invention is not limited to the foregoing examples.
  • Those skilled in the art can make various additions, modifications, and the like within the scope of the present invention.
  • the types of the shrinkable yarns, the method for shrinking the shrinkable yarns, the method for forming the leap portions, and the like can be changed accordingly.
  • the present embodiment has described mixing the shrinkable yarns in a base weave, a stretchy texture composed of the shrinkable yarns may be provided in the base weave in a stacked manner.
  • the various characteristics described in the scope of claims can be combined, if necessary, in a manner other than as described above.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
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WO2018201075A1 (fr) * 2017-04-28 2018-11-01 unspun, Inc. Systèmes et procédés pour créer un tissu tissé topographique
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WO2015177837A1 (fr) 2015-11-26
CN105283592B (zh) 2017-03-08
EP2998423A4 (fr) 2016-11-16
EP2998423A1 (fr) 2016-03-23
CN105283592A (zh) 2016-01-27
JPWO2015177837A1 (ja) 2017-04-20
JP5727685B1 (ja) 2015-06-03

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