US2066293A - Fold line in wearing apparel - Google Patents

Fold line in wearing apparel Download PDF

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Publication number
US2066293A
US2066293A US29817A US2981735A US2066293A US 2066293 A US2066293 A US 2066293A US 29817 A US29817 A US 29817A US 2981735 A US2981735 A US 2981735A US 2066293 A US2066293 A US 2066293A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
fold line
ply
collar
plies
zone
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US29817A
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English (en)
Inventor
Liebowitz Benjamin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
TRUBENIZING PROCESS Corp
Original Assignee
TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP filed Critical TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP
Priority to US29817A priority Critical patent/US2066293A/en
Priority to FR809161D priority patent/FR809161A/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US2066293A publication Critical patent/US2066293A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B5/00—Fold-line formings for collars or cuffs

Definitions

  • My invention relates to apparel, and particularly to such garments or garment parts which are stiffened by the adhesive union of a plurality of plies, and which have a fold or fold line where 5 the garment is folded over.
  • a particular application of this invention is to collars of the foldover of turn-down type, such as is described in my Patents Numbers 1,968,409 and 1,968,410, where the separate plies of the collar are permanently united by adhesive means.
  • a completely softened zone adjacentv to a stiff zone 5 is open to the objection thatit creates a zone of mechanical weakness due to the abrupt change in'stifi'ness at the boundary between the stiffened material and the very soft material forming the zone for the fold line. In many instances, this results in rapid wear at the fold line.
  • the region of the fold line is very soft compared with the regions adjacent to the fold line, I have found that one does not get a smooth curve in the collar after it is folded down and bent around to conform with the neck, at least in some cases depending upon the variations in width of said fold line.
  • the fold line has extended practically the full length of the collar top and has conformed exactly to the curve of the band of saidcollar. 1 have found it desirable, however, for reasons which will be clear to those skilled in the art, to have a predetermined fold line which will stop short of the ends of the collar by at least one or two. inches, and which may be perfectly straight, or in any event, less curved than the edge of the band adjacent to the collar top.
  • Another object of this invention is to provide a fold line of this kind which is simple to apply in commercial production of the articles of apparel and which can be manufactured without requiring impracticable close tolerances.
  • a further object of this invention is to obtain the desired fold line without eliminating the adhesive material along the fold line, which elimination involves considerable dimculty and expense,
  • a further object of my invention is to provide a roll effect at the ends of a folded-over permanently stifiened article of wearing apparel.
  • Another object of my invention is to provide means for and methods of manufacturing collars and specifically the fold lines thereof.
  • Still a further object of my invention is to provide a process of manufacturing collars which comprises preparing the fold line after the collar has been assembled and after the application of the adhering process.
  • Still a further object of my invention is to provide. a process of manufacturing apparel in which the fold line is accurately oriented with respect to formed edges of the apparel.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of a completed collar with V the predetermined fold line indicated.
  • Fig. 2 shows a plan view of a guide in forming the fold line, with the collar in position.
  • Fig. 3 is the sectional view 33 of Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 4 is a sectional view showing the formation of the predetermined fold line.
  • Fig. 5 is the sectional view 55 of Fig. 4.
  • Fig. 6 is a sectional perspective of the completed collar with the predetermined fold line.
  • Fig. "l. is a view of the collar of Fig. 6 bent over along the fold line.
  • Fig. 8 is the probe used in the apparatus for forming, the predetermined fold line.
  • Fig. 9 is a sectional view of the apparatus used in forming the predetermined fold line.
  • Fig. 10 is the sectional view l0ll of Fig. 9.
  • l represents a collar top, the piles of which are adhesively united.
  • the collar-top l is attached to a band 2 and has a zone of increased flexibility indicated at I.
  • a preferred form of this zone is that it shall not extend to the ends of the collar and that it shall have lesscurvature than the edge 21: of the band 2.
  • Figs.2 and 3 I have shown diagrammatically the collar clamped between an upper block 4 and a lower block 5, block 4 being .provided with a groove I and the block 5 with a corresponding groove I.
  • a probe 8 is entered between the back ply 9 and the lining ply II at the point indicated by l2, approximately at the center of the grooves.
  • the probe 8 may have the form indicated in Fig. 8.
  • This probe 8 consists of a long shank 8a having a blunt'point and enlarged head 8b.
  • a convenient diameter for the shank 8a is approximately .030 to .040 inch.
  • the head 8b should be .010 to .020 larger in diameter than the shank.
  • Fig. 3 is a cross-section on' the line 3-3 of Fig 2, a completed "fused" collar top with its face ply ll, bottom ply or inner ply 0, and lining ply I0, is shown incrosssection clamped between the blocks 4 and I, with their respective grooves, 0 and I.
  • a curved needle I similar to that used on so-called blind stitch machines is carried in a holder l4 pivoted at II on the block 4, and operated by the extension .or handle II. By rotating the holder 14, the needle is forced into the collar, as indicated, and creates an opening between the inner or bottom ply I and the lining ply II as diagrammatically shown in Fig. 3.
  • the probe I may then be easily entered and pushed along the collar, being guided by the grooves 6 and I, so that ply separation and the resultant increased flexibility comes along a definitely predetermined area. It is very desirable to wet with water the zone where the plies are to be separated, as this makes-it much easier to push the probe along the collar.
  • the adjustment of the needle I! must be very accurate and the collar must be properly supported for this purpose. Accuracy may be facilitated by providing a support, diagrammatically shown at ii, at the time that the needle I3 is penetrating the ply 9. After withdrawal of the needle II the support ll may be dropped out of position so as to expose the groove which guides the probe. Ordinarily, however, a support like If is'notnecessary if the grooves 6 and I are small.
  • the shank of the probe to is shown diagrammatically to enlarged dimensions welded to a holder II by means of a small tongue 20 to which is fastened the handle it.
  • the shank la operates in a groove 2
  • a plurality of fabric plies and adhesive means uniting said plies, said adhesive means between at least two of said plies being disrupted along a narrow zone to form a fold line.
  • a plurality of fabric plies including a lining ply having adhesive means uniting said plies, said adhesive means between said lining ply and at least one of the other plies being disrupted along a narrow zone to form a fold line.
  • aosaaos '5. In a folded garment part of the character described having a predetermined fold line, a front ply, a lining ply, a back ply, and a pre' determined distribution of adhesive material alike at the fold line and adjacent thereto, said front ply being united to said lining ply by said adhesive material at said fold'line and adjacent thereto, said back ply being united to said lining ply by said adhesive material adjacent to said fold line but being free from adhesion thereto at the fold line.
  • a collar top having a predetermined fold line and comprising an outer fabric ply, an inner fabric ply, and an intermediate lining fabric ply, said plies being adhesively united, the adhesion between the inner ply and the lining ply being disrupted along the other, and breaking the adhesion between the lining ply and one of said external plies along a predetermined narrow zone to form a fold line.
  • Theprocess of forming a fold line in'an article of apparel having a plurality of fabric plies adhesively united which comprises forming an opening in one of the outer plies, inserting a probe in the opening between said ply and the adjacent ply and then separating said plies along the fold line by means of the probe.
  • a process for forming a fold line in an article of apparel having a plurality of fabric plies adhesively united which comprises inserting a probe between two of the plies and separating said plies along the fold line by means of the probe.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
US29817A 1935-07-05 1935-07-05 Fold line in wearing apparel Expired - Lifetime US2066293A (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US29817A US2066293A (en) 1935-07-05 1935-07-05 Fold line in wearing apparel
FR809161D FR809161A (fr) 1935-07-05 1936-07-06 Procédé perfectionné pour l'obtention de parties de vêtements et de sous-vêtements

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US29817A US2066293A (en) 1935-07-05 1935-07-05 Fold line in wearing apparel

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US2066293A true US2066293A (en) 1936-12-29

Family

ID=21851038

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US29817A Expired - Lifetime US2066293A (en) 1935-07-05 1935-07-05 Fold line in wearing apparel

Country Status (2)

Country Link
US (1) US2066293A (fr)
FR (1) FR809161A (fr)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR809161A (fr) 1937-02-25

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