US2409902A - Shoe - Google Patents

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US2409902A
US2409902A US489263A US48926343A US2409902A US 2409902 A US2409902 A US 2409902A US 489263 A US489263 A US 489263A US 48926343 A US48926343 A US 48926343A US 2409902 A US2409902 A US 2409902A
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pad
lining
shoe
heel
covering
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US489263A
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Saval Theodore
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/10Low shoes, e.g. comprising only a front strap; Slippers

Definitions

  • midsole in which midsole is embodied a heel lift or raise
  • Another form employs a pad of constant thickness separately covered around its edges to Which'is added a separately covered heel lift or raise.
  • These types of shoes have been made with the edge covering for the pad separately cemented or stitched to thepad, and also by stitching an edge cover to the upper and forming a pocket for the insertion of the pad and in some cases also the heel wedge.
  • Another form of shoe achieving the cushioning effect but without the appearance of the platform shoe has been made by inserting a relatively thick cushioning pad inside the upper after the upper is formed and secured to the outsole.
  • the consumer desires a shoe which does not have the appearance of a platform type shoe and yet incorporates the cushioning effect.
  • War conditions have resulted in regulations which restrict or prevent the use of leather as separate visible edge coverings of platform or midsole type shoes.
  • a further object of the invention is to produce a shoe of the general character described which has superior fitting qualities, and in which the lining of the upper is stitched to the insole or sock lining to form a neat, smooth interior and without the lining of the upper wrinkling.
  • a further more specific object of the invention is to produce a shoe of the character described in which. the upper, including the lining thereof, is stitched together prior'to lasting, and the insole 2 or sock lining is stitched to the lining only .of the upper, the outer (exposed) material of the upper being free from the lining of the upper except along the line of stitching and embodying an .integral marginal extension of material suitable for turning underacushioning pad which is placed against the lower surface of the insole or sock lining while the shoe is on the last.
  • I thus form a lasted shoe with the edges of the cushioning pad or platform covered by the outer material of the upper which is drawn over and cemented to the lower face of the cushioning pad while the shoe is on the last, thus exactly conforming the exposed material of the upper to the lasted lining and insole combination, by which 7 the lining and the exposed material of the upper lie perfectlyflat relatively one to the other, and the entire shoe structure is unified on the last.
  • Figure 1 is a perspective view of an open type shoe embodying my invention.
  • Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of the shoe 0n the last, taken on the line 2-2 of Figure 1, with some of the parts exploded.
  • Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 with the parts assembled.
  • Figure 4 is a cross-sectional View through the vamp taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 3.
  • FIG. 1 to 4 it comprises the elements of a lined upper Illa, an-insole or sock lining Ha, a cushioning pad [2a, a heel Ba, and an outsole Ma.
  • the style or pattern of the upper is immaterial and may vary, it being assumed however that both toeand heel are opened. This is by way of example only.
  • the upper comprises two essential parts, a lining l5 andan exposed covering or material I611.
  • the lining and exposed covering are stitched together around the upper marginal edges only as indicated at IT, leaving free the lower edge l8 of the lining and the'lower edge I9 of the covering.
  • the lining and the covering may be completely detached from each other except around the line of stitching ll. If desired, the lining and covering may be held together by spotting with cement or paste but this is not material to my invention.
  • The'important features are that these two elements are wholly unattached aroundthe lower free edge of the lining, and that the outer material of the upper be formed so that the free edge I9 embodies an integral marginal extension sufficient' to cover the edges of the pad and to turn under the lower surface of th pad.
  • the next step is to stitch the sock lining Ila all the way around to the lower edge iii of the upper lining I as indicated at 20.
  • This sock lining forms the insole of the shoe, and the phrases sock lining, and insole, in describing the present shoe construction are, to be deemed equivalent.
  • the sock lining may be of the same material and weight as the lining IE, it being possible with my construction to utilize a relatively soft flexible material for the sock lining as an insole affording exceptional comfort to the wearer. If for any reason a heavier or stiffer material is desired for I the insole, such may be employed.
  • the sock lining Ha finishes the insole portion of the shoe.
  • the shoe elements thus assembled are placed on the last L, and the fit of the shoe is thus determined.
  • the cushioning pad In is cemented or pasted to the lower surface of the sock lining.
  • This cushioning pad may be wool felt, cork, fiber, sisal or some other felted or composite material, rubber, or any material having resiliency and flexibility sufficient for the function intended. It is preferably, though not necessarily, of constant thickness. thrbughout its width and length. 1 prefer to utilize a cushioning pad which corresponds in full outline to the outline of the last as embodied in the sock lining.
  • the pad may be tapered off rearwardly, leaving the heel portion without any pad. If the heel is made of hardwood, such a construction would sacrifice the cushioning in the heel, but if the heel should be made of cork or a resilient composition or have embodied therein a cushioning element the same general effect could be obtained as in using a cushioning pad the full length of the shoe.
  • the heel i311 which has been separately covered in the manner illustrated, by cementing anedge cover 2! over the upper and lower marginal surfaces .of the heel, or a heel which has been finished by enameling, or in any other desired manner, is cemented to the heel region of the lower face of the cushioning pad and the in-turned edges of the upper.
  • the heel may be of wedge type or of any other desired type which is preferably, though .not' necessarily, feathered or otherwise gradually merged into theplane of the pad .at the ball to more readily accommodate the eutsole' I ia, which is cemented to cover the lower 4 surface of the pad and in-turned marginal edges of the upper as well as the bottom of the heel.
  • a substantially fiat soled shoe is obtained.
  • the outsole may be terminated at its juncture with the forward. edge of the heel, and the bottom of the heel contain its own wearing surface independent of the outsole.
  • a heel reinforcing member 22 may be aifixed to the bottom of the heel.
  • the toe and heel pad extensions could be.cut integral with the sock lining, merely'forming integral extensions thereof along the regions required, but inasmuch as the sock lining is usually of a material which would not be suitable either from a structural or aesthetic standpoint for the pad covering, I will normally make the shoe with the toe' strip 3! and the heel strip 33 cut separately and stitched to the sock lining as indicated.
  • the essence of my invention resides in a shoe construction and method of fabricating the same wherein an upper is made with a lining and an outer covering secured together around the top but unattached at the lower edges which are free from each other, the outer covering being formed with'an integral extension for covering the edges of a pad, a sock lining or insole is stitched to the lower edge of the lining only of the upper, a cushioning pad is located on the underside of the sock lining, and the free marginal edges of the outer covering of the upper, extended for such purpose, are brought over the outer edges of thepad and turned in and secured to the lower marginal surface thereof, and the shoeis completed by the addition of a heel and an outsole.
  • Anopen shoe comprising, a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering in the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form an edge covering for a pad, a sock lining insole secured to said upper lining, a strip extending from said insole along the space where said upper is open to form anfauxiliary pad cover for the edge portion notcovered by the outer material of the upper,
  • a cushioning pad placed against the lower surface of said insole, the free edges of said outer material of the upper end of said strip being turned in and attached to the lower surface of said pad, a heel secured to the heel portion of said pad and turned in edges, and an outsole secured to the toe portion of said pad and turned in edges.
  • An open shoe comprising, a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering in the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form in and attached to the lower surface of said pad, a heel secured to the heel portion of said pad and turned in edges, and an outsole secured to the toe portion of said pad and turned in edges.
  • a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering around the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form an edge covering for a pad
  • a sock lining insole secured to said upper lining
  • a strip extending from said insole along the space where said upper is open to form an auxiliary pad cover for the edge portion not covered by the outer material of the upper
  • a cushioning pad placed against the lower surface of said insole, the free edges of said outer material of the upper and of said strip being turned in and attached to the lower surface of said pad.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Oct. 22, 1946. r. SAVAL 2,409,902
SHOE
Filed June 1, 1945 3nnentor:
attorney.
Patented Oct. 22, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE Theodore Saval, Sierra Madre, Calif.
Application June 1, 1943,.Serial No. 489,263
3 Claims.
ioning midsole between the upper and outsole,
in which midsole is embodied a heel lift or raise,
and the pad and heel lift being covered on the edges by a' sheet material. Another form employs a pad of constant thickness separately covered around its edges to Which'is added a separately covered heel lift or raise. These types of shoes have been made with the edge covering for the pad separately cemented or stitched to thepad, and also by stitching an edge cover to the upper and forming a pocket for the insertion of the pad and in some casesalso the heel wedge. Another form of shoe achieving the cushioning effect but without the appearance of the platform shoe has been made by inserting a relatively thick cushioning pad inside the upper after the upper is formed and secured to the outsole. This latter structure is not satisfactory because the outline of the pad and the insole may vary and the marginal edges not exactly coincide, and since there is no connection between the edges of the pad and the inside wall of the upper the shoe has an unfinished appearance on the inside, and also is liable to cause discomfort.
For certain purposes the consumer desires a shoe which does not have the appearance of a platform type shoe and yet incorporates the cushioning effect. In addition to customer choice, War conditions have resulted in regulations which restrict or prevent the use of leather as separate visible edge coverings of platform or midsole type shoes.
It is an object of my invention to produce a lasted shoe of superior construction and appearance embodying a cushioning pad in 'theinterior of the shoe without a separate visible edge covering for the pad in the closed toe and closed heel type shoe, and separate and visibl only .in the open parts of an open toe or open heel type shoe.
A further object of the invention is to produce a shoe of the general character described which has superior fitting qualities, and in which the lining of the upper is stitched to the insole or sock lining to form a neat, smooth interior and without the lining of the upper wrinkling.
A further more specific object of the invention is to produce a shoe of the character described in which. the upper, including the lining thereof, is stitched together prior'to lasting, and the insole 2 or sock lining is stitched to the lining only .of the upper, the outer (exposed) material of the upper being free from the lining of the upper except along the line of stitching and embodying an .integral marginal extension of material suitable for turning underacushioning pad which is placed against the lower surface of the insole or sock lining while the shoe is on the last. I thus form a lasted shoe with the edges of the cushioning pad or platform covered by the outer material of the upper which is drawn over and cemented to the lower face of the cushioning pad while the shoe is on the last, thus exactly conforming the exposed material of the upper to the lasted lining and insole combination, by which 7 the lining and the exposed material of the upper lie perfectlyflat relatively one to the other, and the entire shoe structure is unified on the last.
These and additional objects and advantages of my invention will become apparent from a further consideration of the specification and drawing.
In the drawing:
Figure 1 is a perspective view of an open type shoe embodying my invention.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of the shoe 0n the last, taken on the line 2-2 of Figure 1, with some of the parts exploded.
Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 with the parts assembled.
Figure 4 is a cross-sectional View through the vamp taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 3.
Referring to the form of the shoe illustrated in Figures 1 to 4, it comprises the elements of a lined upper Illa, an-insole or sock lining Ha, a cushioning pad [2a, a heel Ba, and an outsole Ma.
The style or pattern of the upper is immaterial and may vary, it being assumed however that both toeand heel are opened. This is by way of example only.
The upper comprises two essential parts, a lining l5 andan exposed covering or material I611. The lining and exposed covering are stitched together around the upper marginal edges only as indicated at IT, leaving free the lower edge l8 of the lining and the'lower edge I9 of the covering. The lining and the covering may be completely detached from each other except around the line of stitching ll. If desired, the lining and covering may be held together by spotting with cement or paste but this is not material to my invention. The'important features are that these two elements are wholly unattached aroundthe lower free edge of the lining, and that the outer material of the upper be formed so that the free edge I9 embodies an integral marginal extension sufficient' to cover the edges of the pad and to turn under the lower surface of th pad.
The next step is to stitch the sock lining Ila all the way around to the lower edge iii of the upper lining I as indicated at 20. This sock lining forms the insole of the shoe, and the phrases sock lining, and insole, in describing the present shoe construction are, to be deemed equivalent. The sock lining may be of the same material and weight as the lining IE, it being possible with my construction to utilize a relatively soft flexible material for the sock lining as an insole affording exceptional comfort to the wearer. If for any reason a heavier or stiffer material is desired for I the insole, such may be employed. By my construction, the sock lining Ha finishes the insole portion of the shoe. It is not necessary to use any additional lining or pad, although if for any reason such might be desirable they can be subsequently inserted. It should be noted that the seam connecting the sock lining and the lining of the upper is on the outside and that by my construction no stitching or other fastening devices protrude on the inside of the shoe in or around the insole portion.
At this stage of manufacture the shoe elements thus assembled are placed on the last L, and the fit of the shoe is thus determined. While on the last (of course in position inverted from that shown in the drawing) the cushioning pad In is cemented or pasted to the lower surface of the sock lining, This cushioning pad may be wool felt, cork, fiber, sisal or some other felted or composite material, rubber, or any material having resiliency and flexibility sufficient for the function intended. It is preferably, though not necessarily, of constant thickness. thrbughout its width and length. 1 prefer to utilize a cushioning pad which corresponds in full outline to the outline of the last as embodied in the sock lining. If purposes of economy or design or any other reason dictate the use of a pad less than the full length, as for example in the toe region only, the pad may be tapered off rearwardly, leaving the heel portion without any pad. If the heel is made of hardwood, such a construction would sacrifice the cushioning in the heel, but if the heel should be made of cork or a resilient composition or have embodied therein a cushioning element the same general effect could be obtained as in using a cushioning pad the full length of the shoe.
The lower edges is of the covering material of the'upper are now pulled over the lower'marginal face of the pad and cemented thereto. As the last fills the lining of the upper and shapes the shoe, this method of construction assures thatthe covering of the upper lies absolutely fiat against the lining of the upper without wrinkling of either and producing a shoe of excellent fit and appearance.
' The heel i311 which has been separately covered in the manner illustrated, by cementing anedge cover 2! over the upper and lower marginal surfaces .of the heel, or a heel which has been finished by enameling, or in any other desired manner, is cemented to the heel region of the lower face of the cushioning pad and the in-turned edges of the upper. The heel may be of wedge type or of any other desired type which is preferably, though .not' necessarily, feathered or otherwise gradually merged into theplane of the pad .at the ball to more readily accommodate the eutsole' I ia, which is cemented to cover the lower 4 surface of the pad and in-turned marginal edges of the upper as well as the bottom of the heel. When the heel is thus formed and. applied, a substantially fiat soled shoe is obtained. As an alternative the outsole may be terminated at its juncture with the forward. edge of the heel, and the bottom of the heel contain its own wearing surface independent of the outsole. If desired, a heel reinforcing member 22 may be aifixed to the bottom of the heel.
In the case of the open toe shoe, the pad 12a would be exposed in the toe opening 30 of the shoe if it were not covered. Consequently I stitch a strip of edge covering 31 around the toe portion of the sock lining by stitching 32 in a manner so thatthe edge cover may be turned over and down across the forward edge of the pad. In the case of an open heel a similar but longer strip of edge covering material 33 is likewise stitched around .the heel portion of the sock lining as indicated by stitching 34 so that this material may be turned down and over the edge of the pad around the heel portion. When the toe strip 3| and the heel strip 33 are attached in the manner indicated, for purposes of completing the shoe they are equivalent to the lower free edge of the upper covering Ilia. Should the sock lining be of such material and color as to properly harmonize or contrast with the outer covering of the upper, the toe and heel pad extensions could be.cut integral with the sock lining, merely'forming integral extensions thereof along the regions required, but inasmuch as the sock lining is usually of a material which would not be suitable either from a structural or aesthetic standpoint for the pad covering, I will normally make the shoe with the toe' strip 3! and the heel strip 33 cut separately and stitched to the sock lining as indicated.
Although I have herein shown and described my invention in what I have conceived to'be the most practical and preferred embodiment, it is recognized that departures may be made therefrom within the scope of my invention, which is not to .be limited to the details disclosed herein but is to be accorded the full scope of the claims so as to embrace any and all equivalent constructions and methods of producing.
The essence of my invention resides in a shoe construction and method of fabricating the same wherein an upper is made with a lining and an outer covering secured together around the top but unattached at the lower edges which are free from each other, the outer covering being formed with'an integral extension for covering the edges of a pad, a sock lining or insole is stitched to the lower edge of the lining only of the upper, a cushioning pad is located on the underside of the sock lining, and the free marginal edges of the outer covering of the upper, extended for such purpose, are brought over the outer edges of thepad and turned in and secured to the lower marginal surface thereof, and the shoeis completed by the addition of a heel and an outsole.
Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: '1. Anopen shoe comprising, a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering in the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form an edge covering for a pad, a sock lining insole secured to said upper lining, a strip extending from said insole along the space where said upper is open to form anfauxiliary pad cover for the edge portion notcovered by the outer material of the upper,
a cushioning pad placed against the lower surface of said insole, the free edges of said outer material of the upper end of said strip being turned in and attached to the lower surface of said pad, a heel secured to the heel portion of said pad and turned in edges, and an outsole secured to the toe portion of said pad and turned in edges.
2. An open shoe comprising, a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering in the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form in and attached to the lower surface of said pad, a heel secured to the heel portion of said pad and turned in edges, and an outsole secured to the toe portion of said pad and turned in edges.
3. In a shoe construction the combination of: a lined upper in which the lining is unattached to the covering around the insole region and the covering is formed with an integral marginal extension depending below the adjacent edge of said lining to form an edge covering for a pad, a sock lining insole secured to said upper lining, a strip extending from said insole along the space where said upper is open to form an auxiliary pad cover for the edge portion not covered by the outer material of the upper, a cushioning pad placed against the lower surface of said insole, the free edges of said outer material of the upper and of said strip being turned in and attached to the lower surface of said pad.
THEODORE SAVAL.
US489263A 1943-06-01 1943-06-01 Shoe Expired - Lifetime US2409902A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2584276A (en) * 1947-12-04 1952-02-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Method of making slip lasted shoes

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2584276A (en) * 1947-12-04 1952-02-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Method of making slip lasted shoes

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