US2981139A - Lace fabric and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

April 25, 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL 2,981,139

LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG.]

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ATTORNEY 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1959 April 25 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 6

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INVENTORS [ff/1'02 Jar/fer April 25, 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL 2,981,139

LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 lwml/Jml U In the; drawings:

' v. Fig. lfiis ajdiagrammatic ingthe' lace fabric of the present inventiong.

United Stat LACE FABRIC AND METHOD F MAKING THE SAME Elliot Sutter, Baldwin, and Herbert Rubin, East Meadow,

N.Y., assignors to Native Laces & Textiles, Incorporated, New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York This invention relates to the construction of lace fabric and to a method of making lace fabric.

Lace fabric having warp threads, beam threads and liner threads has a rough hand or feel at the back surface thereof so that the lace is uncomfortable against the surface of the skin. Accordingly, a separate backing fabric or layer is provided which is fastened to the lace fabric at the back surface thereof, as by sewing, so that the fabric will have a smoother hand. Such a construction is fairly common in the cups of brassieres made of lace. Thecombined lace fabric with its separate backing layer provides the proper aesthetic effect due to the lace design at the front thereof and, at the same time, has a smooth hand due to the joined backing layer at the back thereof. However, it will be readily apparent that this construction is relatively expensive because the lace construction is made of two separate fabrics which are joined together to give the combined result of a smooth hand and a certain aesthetic appearance.

Accordingly, one of the objects of the present invention is to provide a lace fabric, as an integrally const-ructed unit, which has the aesthetic effect due to the lace design as well as a smooth hand or feel at the back surface thereof.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a backing layer for a lace fabric which is integral with the lace fabric.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a backing layer integral with a lace fabric, the backing layer being so constructed as to provide a fining background for the lacefabric.

A still further object of the presentinvention is to provide a backing layer integral with a lace fabric, wherein the backing layer is so constructed as to provide a design fonthe fabric at the back thereof. Y Yet another objectof the present: invention is to=provide an improved construction of lace fabric.

"A. further object of the ,present invention is to. provide animprovedwmethod.ofmakinglace fabric. j 7

The 'above'and lother objects, features. and advantages of thisinvention wilhbe fully nnderstood, ;fr om the fol lowing description considered in. connection with the ac companyingillustrative drawings -of the presently preferred embodiment ofthis invention.

a Levers la'cemachine which may be employed for makrFig.:; 2,:is ..a fragmentary elevationalwiew showing" part of themachine illustrated inFig." 1; p 1 Fig. isfi-a plan view 'of-a piece of lace, on a greatly enlarged scale, showing one-eighth of a repeat, the lace beiilg'shown having no backing layer;

fFig. a plan" view ofa'pieceofjlace, on a greatly eighth (if a repeat being shown} ie hlar'ged scale,- pursu'ant to "the present inventi0n, onepresent invention illustrating the appearance of the front surface thereof;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same lace shown in Fig. 5 illustrating the appearance of the back surface thereof; and

Fig. 6a is a fragmentary plan view of a piece of lace pursuant to (the present invention having a design at the back surface thereof.

Referring now to the drawings in detail and particularly to Figs. 1 and 2 thereof, there is shown diagram: matically a Levers lace machine 10, only those parts of the machine essential to the description of the invention being shown. It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the use of any particular type of machine. A roller or main warp beam 12. is suitably supported in the frame of the machine and carries the main warp threads 14. Only one warp beam is provided and it will be understood that this warp beam carries all the warp threads which comprise the pillar layer of the fabric. Disposed below and behind the main warp beam are a number of auxiliary rack beams 16, forty-eight (48) of such rack beams being illustrated. Each of the rack beams carries a beam thread 18 which provides the net and design for the lace fabric. It will be understood that each of the rack beams is suitably supported in the frame of the machine. Each of the beam threads passes from their respective rack beams through eyelets 20 provided on guiding rods 22 which are suitably supported in the frame of the machine.

Disposed above and slightly to the rear of main warp beam 12 is another warp beam or roller 24 which carries threads 26 which provide a backing layer for the lace fabric in accordance with the invention as will be more fully understood from the following description.

Disposed above the warp beams and rack beams is a sley'28 which is suitably supported in the frame of the machine. The sley includes a plurality of holes 30 through which the individual threads constituting the lace fabric pass. Only that part of the sley is shown which includes all the threads necessary to make one complete design, it being understood that the sley continues throughout the length of the machine. In the particular illustration shown, a repeat of the design of the fabric consists of forty-eight (48) main warp threads 14, fortyeight (48) beam threads 18, forty-eight. (48) threads 26 for the backing layer, and twelve (12) liner threads 32. The liner threads provide the heavier outline along the peripheral edge of the design portions of the lace fabric. The liner beams or rollers 34 are disposed immediately belowthe rack beams 16 and are suitably supported in the frame of the machine in a manner similar to the support for the rack :beams. Each of the liner threads 32 is led off its respective beam and-passes through its respective eyelet 20 on the guide rodZZ and through its re- .spective hole 30 in the sley. 1 For the particular design-of the lace shown, there are provided in the sley, two rows of. six-holes each for the perspective viejw of a part of liner threads, eight rows of sixholes each for the beam threads; ffourfr'ows' of. twelve holes "each for-the warp threads and four rows .of "twelve holes each for the threads constituting the backingllayer for thefabric, as

' Fig.- 5*is a'plan view ofa piece of lace pursuantto the l shown. in Fig. l.

is one-half'the distance of. the spacing of the holes for Patented Apr. 25, 196i The holes-forthe warp threads and the holes for the threads constituting the backing layer" forthe fabric are spaced the same distance apart which 3 of the bars is provided with holes 38 through which the various threads constituting the lace fabric pass. In the particular design shown, there are twelve (12) bars for the liner threads, each bar carrying one thread. For the beam threads, there are forty-eight (48) bars, each bar also carrying one thread. For the warp threads, there are four (4) bars, each bar carrying twelve (12) threads and for the threads comprising the backing layer, there are also four (4) bars, each bar carrying twelve (12) threads. The bars carrying the beam threads are located in front of the bars carrying the warp threads. The bars carrying the threads constituting the backing layer of the fabric are behind the bars carrying the warp threads. The bars carrying the liner threads are in front of the bars carrying the beam threads, all as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It will be understood that the Jacquard mechanism controls the movement of each bar with respect to each other, and since the warp threads and the threads constituting the backing layer move in groups of twelve (12) threads each in a uniform manner, twelve (12) threads may be placed on one bar. With respect to the beam threads and liner threads, each of these threads moves with respect to each other in a random manner according to the predetermined pattern of the design and, accordingly, each of the threads is provided with its own individual bar to control the movement thereof. The bars moves parallel to the length of the machine, to the right or left as viewed in Fig. 1.

As the warp threads, liner threads, beam threads and threads constituting the backing layer deflect to the right or left, through the action of the Jacquard mechanism, the bobbin threads 40 will pass on one side of a given thread and on its return movement on the other side of the given thread, thus forming a twist to interconnect the threads with each other and form a unitary structure. The bobbin threads are carried in a bobbin 42 and the bobbins are carried in a carriage 44. The forward and backward motions of the carriage, which is transverse to the motion of the bars, are caused by the catch bars 46, as best seen in Fig. 2. There are two catch bars, one catch bar being placed to the right of the carriage for engaging groove 48 thereof and pulling the carriage to the right, and a catch bar to the left of the carriage for engaging groove 56 thereof and moving the carriage to the left, as viewed in Pig. 2. The carriages move back and forth in comb lead 52 which is suitably supported in the machine.

Disposed above the bobbins is a pair of point bars 54 and 56, respectively, which are adapted to move up and down to compress the twists of the threads caused by the movements of the warp, beam, bobbin, and liner threads and the threads constituting the backing layer of the fabric. The upward movement of each of the point bars is terminated at the facing bar 58 of the machine. After the point bars have moved up and compressed the twist caused by the motions of the barsand bobbins, the point bars move down into position ready to compress the twist caused by the next motions of the bars and bobbins. By compressing the twist, the newly formed lace joins the previously formed. lace to construct the fabric. v

The new lace moves. and partly around a porcupine roll 60 which turns enough to a make roomfifor the newly formed lace. The lace is wrapped around an upper roller 62 which rests upon the porcupine'rolls. The porcupine roll is covered' with short metal points and holds lthe lace taut as it is produced after it has passed over the flat metal surface of the facing bar 58. Variations in quality of the lace are obtained by controlling the speed of movement of the porcupine roll.

Referring now to Fig. 3, there is shown a greatly enlarged view of a piece of lace which may be made on the machine illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, with the threads 26 of warp beam 24 which constitute the backing layer eliminated so that the-lace fabric will be in accordance with previously known lace construction. The figure illustrates one-eighth of a repeat of a lace design and it will be noted that there are six warp threads shown, namely, warp threads 64, 66, 68, 70, 72 and 74, respectively. This is a total of six threads or one-eighth the number of warp threads shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It will be seen that the warp threads are spaced across the width of the fabric and extend lengthwise thereof. The beam threads which are interconnected with the warp threads to form the net and design portions of the lace fabric are identified by the reference numerals 76, 78, 80, 82,

84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114, 116 and 1 18, respectively. The bobbin threads are indicated by the reference numerals 120, 122, 124, 126, 128 and 130, respectively. The liner threads are indicated by the reference numerals 132 and 134, respectively.

The warp threads (64-74) comprise the pillar layer of the fabric and are interconnected with the other threads constituting the fabric, the warp threads being twisted about the bobbin threads as shown. The beam threads (76-118) comprise a layer disposed in front of the pillar layer and havetheir threads hooked about or twisted over the warp threads of the pillar layer. For example, beam thread passes over warp thread 64 and bobbin thread 120, then under both of the aforesaid threads, then over both of the aforesaid threads, over beam thread 66 and bobbin thread 122, under both of the aforesaid threads, then over both of the aforesaid threads to the next warp thread where the pattern of movement of beam thread 80 continues. The interconnection of the beam threads, warp threads, and bobbin threads, as just described, provides the net-portion of the lace fabric, the net portion being indicated at A.

In the areaof'the design portion of the fabric, indicated at B, the beam thread, as for example beam thread 88, passes over threads 64 and 120, under threads 64 and 120, over threads 64 and 120, over threads 66 and 122, under threads 66 and 122, over threads 66 and 122, over threads 68 and 124, under threads 68 and 124, over threads 68 and 124, over threads 70 and 126, under threads 70 and 126, under threads 68 and .124. over threads 68 and 124, over threads 70 and 126, over threads 72 and 128, under threads 72 and I128, over threads 72 and 128, over threads 74 and 130, under- threads 74 and 130, and over threads 74 and 130. Thus it will be seen that the beam threads are interconnected with the warp threads of the fabric to also form the design portions of the fabric. It will also be seen that the beam threads are disposed in front of the warp threads comprising the pillar layer of the fabric.

The liner threads provide the outline for the design portion of the fabric and are connected to the fabric in front of the beam threads by the bobbin threads. As viewed in Fig. 3, liner thread 132 passes under bobbin thread 124, over the other threads ofthe fabric in the vicinity of thread 124, under bobbin thread 124, over the other threads, under bobbin thread 124, under bobbin thread 126, under bobbin thread 128, turns and goes under bobbin thread 128 again, turns and goes over bobbin thread 128, turns and goes under bobbin thread 128, under bobbin thread 126, under bobbin thread 124, under bobbin thread 124, turns and goes 'under'bobbin thread 124, turns again and goes under bobbin thread 124 and then continues in a similar manner throughthe length of the fabric. Inall cases, it will be'noted that the;liner threadgoes 'over all the other threads. comprising the fabric except the bobbin thread which interconnects the liner thread to the fabric atthe front thereof. I I 1 Referring now to Fig. 4, it will be seen that the lace fabric shown therein is identical to the lace fabric shown in Fig. 3, except that an additional backing layer has been provided at the back of the pillar layerof the fabric in accordance with the invention. The backing layer comprises a series of threads indicated by reference numerals 136, 138, 140, 1'42, 144 and 146, respectively, and each of these threads is interconnected with the fabric to provide a backinglayer for the fabric integral therewithv at the back of the pillar layer of the fabric. For example, thread 136 goes over thread 120, under thread 120, under all the other threads constituting the fabric in the area of bobbin thread 122, under all the other threads constituting the fabric in the area of bobbin thread 124, turns and goes over bobbin thread 124, over bobbin thread 122, over bobbin thread 120, turns and goesunder bobbin thread 120, and continues in a similar manner as previously described to provide a backing layer for the fabric integral with the pillar layer of the fabric at the back thereof. It will be noted in the embodimentshown in Fig. 4 that the number of threads comprising the backing layer corresponds to the number of warp threads in the pillar layer and that the threads comprising the backing layer are so arranged with respect to each other and the warp and bobbin threads, in the manner previously described, so as to provide an effective fining background for the fabric. The number of threads comprising the backing layer may be varied as desired. .This finingbackground provides a smooth hand for the fabric at the back thereof. In this regard,

it will be understood thatthe pattern of movement of the threads comprising the backing layer may be varied according to the Jacquard mechanism of the machine to provide various degrees offineness for the backing layer. The pattern of movement of each of the threads comprising the backing layer is identical, each thread comprising the backing layer passing in front of a warp thread, passing in backof the same warp thread, passing in back of two adjacent warp threads, and then turning and passing in front of the same two adjacent war-p threads to complete a single pattern of movement whereby the thread is repositioned for repeating the same movement.

Referring nowto Fig. 5, there is shown a plan view of the front ofthe lace fabric made in accordance with theapresent'invention and it will be noted that the backing-layer is not readily apparent so that the proper aesthetic effect due' to. the lace fabric design at the front thereof has not been impaired. Figs 6 shows a plan view of the same lace fabric of Fig. 5, as viewed from thebackthereof, showing the backing layer integral with the -.pillar layer of thefabric. i

Referring now to Fig-6a, there is shown a fragmentary'view of the back of the lace fabric wherein the threads-comprising.the backing layer have been moved in-annanner similar to the beam threads of the fabric so-that a.de'sign has been providedfor the fabric at the back. thereof, in lieu of the'fining background shown in Fig. Irwill be recalled that the threads 26 comprising the backing layer are under the controlrof the Jacquard mechanism and therefore may be interconnected with the pillar layer of the fabri'c'according to any predetermined pattern, the pattern illustrated in Fig. 4 providing a fining background for the fabric. In Fig. 6a, the threads =26 have been "interconnected with the pillar layer of the fabric in a manner similar to the beam threads 18 of the fabric so that a design has been provided for the fabric at the back thereof. Of course, with the backing layer of .the fabric so arranged as to provide a design thereof, the hand of the fabric at the back thereof will no longer be smooth.

While we have shown and described the presently preferred embodiments of the invention, it will be understood that the invention may be embodiedotherwise as than herein specifically illustrated or described, and that in the illustrated embodiment certain changes in the de-- tails of construction and in the form and. arrangement of parts may be made without departing from the underlying idea or principles of the invention. Accordingly,

'6 We do not wish to be limited to the precise construction shown or described herein, except as may be required by the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Alace fabric, comprising a'pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width'of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, and another layer disposed at the back of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer comprising threads interconnected with said pillar layer throughout the entire extent thereof so that said backing layer is integral with said fabric throughout the entire length and width thereof, said threads comprising said backing layer being arranged to provide a smooth hand for said fabric at the back thereof and thereby provide a fining background for said fabric, the number of threads comprising said backing layer being equal to the number of warp threads in said pillar layer.

2. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, and another layer disposed at the back of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer comprising threads interconnected with said pillar layer so that said backing layer is integral with said fabric, said threads of said backing layer passing in front of a warp thread, passing in back of said warp thread, passing in back of tWo adjacent Warp threads, and passing in front of said two adjacent warp threads whereby said threads are repositioned for repeating the movement to provide 'a fining background at the back of said fabric and provide a smooth hand therefor.

3. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layerhavin'g beam threads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at'the rear of said pillar 'layer to provide a net backing layer for said fabric, saidbacking layer having threads twisted about said warp threads of said pillar layer so that said backing layer is integral with said fabric, and a liner layer disposed at the'front of said pillar layer to provide an outline for said design, said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the front thereof.

4. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of Warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer having beam threads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at the rear of said pillar layer to' provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer having threads twisted about said warp threads of said pillar layer so that said backing layer is integral with said fabric, said backing layer being a net layer and extending throughout the entire length and Width of the fabric, said threads comprising said backing layer'being arranged toprovide a smooth hand for said fabric at the back thereof and thereby provide a fining backgnound for said fabric, and a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer to provide an outline for said. design, said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to'connect vsaidliner layer to said fabric at the front thereof.

twisted about said Warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and a design at the frontthereofianother layer disposed :attthe' rear of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer having threads twisted about said warp threads of said pillar .layer so as to define a net backing layer which is integral with said fabric, said threads comprising said backing layer being arranged to provide a smooth hand for said fabn'cat the back thereof and thereby provide a fining background for said fabric, the number of threads comprising said backing layer being equal to the number of warp threads in said pillar layer, and a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer to provide an outline for said design, said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the front thereof.

6. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of Warp threads spaced across the Width of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer, having beam threads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at the rear of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer having 'said pillar layer to provide an outline for said design,

said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the front thereof.

7. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwise thereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer having beam threads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at the rear of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer having threads twisted about said Warp threads of said pillar layer so as to define a net backing layer which is integral with said fabric, said threads comprising said backing layer being arranged to provide a design for said fabric at the back thereof, said threads of said backing layer passing in front of a warp thread, passing in back of said warp thread, passing in back of two adjacent warp threads, and passing in front of said two adjacent warp threads whereby said threads are repositioned for repeating the movement to provide a fining background at the back of said fabric and provide a smooth hand therefor, and a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer to provide an outline for said design, said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the front thereof.

8. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series of threads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forming a backing layer for said fabric, providing .another layer having a series of beam threads disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming a net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnecting the threads of said backing layer in accordance with a predetermined pattern with the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backing layer integral with said fabric at the back thereof and throughout the entire length and width thereof, and interconecting said beam threads with said warp threadsto form said net and the design for said lace fabric at the front thereof.

9. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series of of, said predetermined pattern being adapted to provide a fining background for said fabric and thereby provide a smooth hand at the back of said fabric throughout the entire length and width thereof, and interconnecting said beam threads with said warp threads to form said net and the design for said lace fabric at the front thereof.

10. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series of threads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forming a backing layer for said fabric, providing another layer having a series of beam threads disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming a net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnecting the threads of said backing layer in accordance with a predetermined pattern with the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backing layer integral with said fabric at'the back thereof, said predetermined pattern being adapted to provide a net design for said fabric at the back thereof, and interconnecting said beam threads with said warp threads to form a net and the design for said lace fabric at the front thereof.

11. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series of threads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forming a backing layer for said fabric, providing another layer having a series of beam threads disposed at the front of 'said pillar layer for forming a net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnecting the threads of said backing layer in accordance with a predetermined pattern with the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backing layer int'egral with said fabric atthe back thereof, said predetermined pattern being adapted to provide a fining net'background for said fabric and thereby provide a smooth hand at the back of said fabric, interconnecting said beam threads with said warp threads to form said net and the design for said late fabric .at the front thereof, providing a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming an outline for said design at the front of said fabric, and interconnecting said liner layer to saidfabric with bobbin threads.

"References Citedin the file .of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS

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