US3293662A - Double or turndown collar - Google Patents

Double or turndown collar Download PDF

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Publication number
US3293662A
US3293662A US264197A US26419763A US3293662A US 3293662 A US3293662 A US 3293662A US 264197 A US264197 A US 264197A US 26419763 A US26419763 A US 26419763A US 3293662 A US3293662 A US 3293662A
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United States
Prior art keywords
collar
knitted
fold line
turndown
knitting
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US264197A
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English (en)
Inventor
Seiler Fritz
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Edouard Dubied et Cie SA
Original Assignee
Edouard Dubied et Cie SA
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Publication of US3293662A publication Critical patent/US3293662A/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/18—Cloth collars
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09J—ADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J7/00—Adhesives in the form of films or foils
    • C09J7/20—Adhesives in the form of films or foils characterised by their carriers
    • C09J7/22—Plastics; Metallised plastics
    • C09J7/26—Porous or cellular plastics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels

Definitions

  • the rectangular collar as well as collars of trapezoidal form have the drawback, that once worn, the free outer edge wants length with respect to the sewn inner edge and consequently does not adapt itself correctly to the shape of the neck and tends to climb along the neck in a very inaesthetical manner.
  • This drawback persists even if the collar is given a strongly marked fold, the realization of which may be facilitated by the manufacture in this longitudinal folding Zone of some rows of simple stitches knitted on one of the two needle beds only, whereby the stitches of the other needle bed are somewhat elongated in consequence.
  • the present invention has for its prime object a method of knitting a collar in which the above mentioned drawbacks are suppressed owing to an asymmetrical fashion, i.e. owing to a fashion diifering for the lower and upper portion of the knitted piece.
  • This fashion which is novel in knitting, is obtained by the knitting of the folding rows on one bed not along a straight longitudinal line, but curved in such a manner, that once the collar is turned down, the inner portion is narrower on the forward zone, than the cuter portion which generally are called the tips of the collar.
  • the asymmetry of both distinctive portions of the collar may be increased by shaping (tlechage), ie. by intentional deformation of determinated knitting zones by accumulation of successive stitch rows more or less incomplete in length in the mentioned zone.
  • such shaping may be effected either in the central zone of the inner portion or in both outer portions of the tips of the collar or even in a combination of both variants and this as well for a collar of rectangular as for a collar of trapezoidal shape.
  • FIGURE l shows a simple rectangular collar of conventional manufacture with a narrow zone along a straight longitudinal line of stitch rows knitted on one bed for the folding of the collar.
  • FIGURE 2 represents the same type of collar but with the outer portion of trapezoidal shape with inwardly turned tips.
  • FIGURE 3 shows, diagrammatically, a collar with trapezoidal outer portion, but with outwardly turned tips obtained by narrowings.
  • FIGURE 4 shows the same collar as FIGURE 3, but
  • FIGURE 5 diagrammatically illustrates a rectangular or trapezoidal collar with curved folding line according to the present invention.
  • FIGURE 6 indicates in a deformed scale the Zones of shaping (echage) and the effect of such shaping (ile- 'chag-e) on the shape of the edges and on the tips of the collar.
  • FIGURE 6a is similar to FIGURE 6 but is drawn on right width proportions
  • FIG. 7 shows on one half of the knitted. piece one practical realization of the folding curve.
  • FIGURE S explains, diagrammatically, and in a representation similar to that of FIGURE 7, another method for obtaining the folding curve.
  • FIGURE 8a is similar to FIGURE 8, but shows the actual slackened form of the knitted piece
  • FIGURE 8b is a perspective view of an actual collar made in accordance with the procedure of FIGURES 8 and 8a;
  • FIGURE 8c is a plan view of the collar of FIGURE 8b prior to folding
  • FIGURE 9 is asection taken along the line I--I of FIGURE 7.
  • FIGURE l0 shows in a cross sectional View one of the six pieces according to FIGURES 1-6 after the folding to a turndown collar but previous to the attaching ofthe collar to the neck-band of the garment.
  • FIGURE 11 illustrates about the neck of a person a conventional rectangular collar
  • FIGURE l2 illustrates in the same manner a collar according to the invention when worn.
  • the collar shown in FIGURE l represents the most simple shape of such a piece, namely that which may be manufactured on any flat knitting machine having two needle beds and the possibility of manufacturing simple stitches on one bed.
  • reference numeral 1 designates the free lower edge as obtained for example by the conventional starting and welt.
  • Reference numeral 2 designates the portion of the collar which once the collar has been turned down, will form the exterior thereof and comprising the two tips 2a.
  • Reference numeral 3 indicates the narrow band marking the fold line and obtained in a well known manner by one to four stitch row successively knitted on one needle bed and designated as wales, the stitches in the inactive needles on the other bed being elongated ⁇ during this operation.
  • This tubular zone 5 is closed for technical knitting requirements (attachment of the next following piece by a drawing thread) by some rows of 1:1 rib knitting indicated by reference numeral 6.
  • This closed edge 6 at the same time prevents involuntary damage of the tubular knitting by the formation of ladders previous to, the attachment of the collar to the garment.
  • the mentioned 1:1 knitted rows will be cut or opened in order to obtain the open edge 5 as indicated in FIGURE 9,
  • the manufacture of the collar shown in FIGURE 2 is basically the same as for that of FIGURE 1, with the eX- ception that the outer portion 2 in this example is fashioned in the shape of an isosceles trapezoid with the sides 2'b inclined towards the middle of the piece, so as to obtain inwardly turned tips Z'a.
  • Such a fashion requires for its realization an appropriate machine equipped with a widening device, for example with a Jacquard device on both needle beds.
  • On its length 6a at both ends of the edge 6 and between the points A and B the final stitches are simply knocked over and the starting of the next following piece is effected on the length B-B only.
  • a trapezoidal collar with outwardly turned tips i.e. with tips extending away from the center of the piece may be knitted according to two different methods, diagrammatically illustrated by FIGURES 3 and 4, respectively.
  • the knitting of the successive zones 2-5 is effected in the same sequence as in the preceding examples.
  • the tips 2a may be obtained by narrowings only, in other words, only on a machine provided with an appropriate narrowing device.
  • the transition to the next following piece may in this case not be effected directly, since the two ends 1a of the new edge 1 between the points C' and D hang freely and are not submitted to the action of the take-down mechanism for the knitted fabric.
  • an auxiliary zone 7 must be inserted with oblique selvedges 7a forming the connection between the points C and D.
  • the width of this Zone between the lines 6 and 8 is determined by the maximum inclination which shall be obtained by the widenings.
  • This supplementary width may, as the band 5b, be knitted in a cheap material.
  • the piece ends by a closed edge 8.
  • FIGURES 7 and 8 The practical execution of the curved fold line may take place according to two different methods, diagrammatically illustrated by FIGURES 7 and 8, respectively.
  • the said curve actually consists in a great number of juxtaposed small rectangles, each formed by several wales obtained on one bed and called bunches These rectangles are stepped with respect to each other approximately half of their height.
  • the length of such rectangles may be varied. For example, in the middle portion where the curve is relatively at, there may be provided a series of elongated rectangles 3a and at the selvedges, i.e. at the steeper parts of the curve, a larger number of shorter rectangles 3b.
  • the method according to FIGURE 8 makes use of the natural tendency of deformation produced by the shaping (flechages).
  • the outermost stitches of the serpentines are connected with each other at the reversal points P by means of at least one through-going row of simple stitches formed on one needle bed whereby this row in the liberated knitted piece by itself takes a curved form thereby marking the fold line according to the invention.
  • FIG- URE 8b shows a perspective view of an actual collar resulting from the knitting procedure of FIGURE 8; and FIGURE 8c is a plan view of the collar of FIGURE 8b prior to folding,
  • FIGURE 8c the reference characters corresponding to those in FIGURES 6 and 8a have been applied.
  • FIGURE 8 the shaping (tlechages) is illustrated diagrammatically only in order to facilitate the comprehension.
  • the successive stitch rows are consequently represented as being straight, as they are at the moment where they are formed by the needles of the machine and under the eifect of the takedown device. In the slack piece they will be deformed.
  • the character of the succssive rows linked in form of serpentines 2b and with decreasing lengths clearly appears. These rows are obtained in a manner known per se by means of two independent thread carriers operating simultaneously in the same direction as the machine carriage, one of which reproduces in the half of the piece that is not represented the inversed exact reection of the shaping (iiechages) executed by the other.
  • FIG. 10 represents a folded collar and makes particularly visible its sandwich arrangement on the neck-band C of the garment V.
  • the attachment of both these pieces may be effected for example on a whip-stitch sewing machine.
  • FIGURE 11 finally illustrates the bad seat when worn of collars of conventional manufacture with the rearward portion climbing, with the tips backwardly drawn and with the folds around the neck.
  • FIGURE 12 illustrates the good seat of a collar made in accordance with the present invention, closely following the contours of the human neck resulting in a perfect appearance similar to that of the best collars of woven shirts.
  • the three basic examples of the tips of the collar according to FIGURES 1, 2, 3, 4 are adapted to various modifications not represented but included by the invention.
  • the selvedges 2b, Z'b, 2b and 2b may present any desired curve.
  • the lower corners of the tips 2a, 2a, 2a and 2a could be rounded etc.
  • the type of stitches used for the knitting of the whole collar or of certain portions thereof may be varied as also it could be possible to make use of Jacquard termss, stitch transfer, cardigan effects and so on.
  • a knitted turndown collar comprising an outer portion; an inner portion; a fold line portion joining said outer and inner portions, and which defines a predetermined curved fold line, said outer and inner portions being asymmetrical with respect to each other and with respect to the curved fold line; and said fold line portion comprising wales in the form of juxtaposed rectangularly shaped bunches which are stepped with respect to each other at their respective junctions.
  • a knitted turndown collar comprising an outer portion; an inner portion; a fold line portion joining said outer and inner portions and which denes a predetermined curved fold line, said outer and inner portions being asymmetrical with respect to each other and with respect to the curved fold line; and, in at least one of said two first-named portions, including supplementary stitch rows of diiferent lengths, the reversal points of said supplementary stitches being joined by a through-going row of simple stitches thereby defining said predetermined curved fold line.
  • a knitted turndown collar comprising an outer portion; an inner portion; a fold line portion joining said outer and inner portions, and, in said outer portion, a plurality of successive rib stitch rows, at least one end of which rows are successively stepped, a through going row of plain stitches at said fold line joining reversal points of said successive rib stitch rows and when said rib stitch rows deform in slackened condition at said fold line produce curvature thereof and make said outer and inner portions asymmetrical with respect to each other and with respect to the fold line.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
US264197A 1962-04-17 1963-03-11 Double or turndown collar Expired - Lifetime US3293662A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH476162A CH390841A (fr) 1962-04-17 1962-04-17 Col double tricoté et procédé pour sa fabrication

Publications (1)

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US3293662A true US3293662A (en) 1966-12-27

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US264197A Expired - Lifetime US3293662A (en) 1962-04-17 1963-03-11 Double or turndown collar

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US (1) US3293662A (fr)
CH (1) CH390841A (fr)
DE (1) DE1435863A1 (fr)
GB (1) GB1044033A (fr)

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3335582A (en) * 1965-11-29 1967-08-15 Singer Co Simulated full fashioned knitted collar
US3875768A (en) * 1972-02-28 1975-04-08 Werner Arndt Knitted terminal edging
US4038840A (en) * 1974-05-16 1977-08-02 Castello Leo J Method of collar fabrication
US4987622A (en) * 1989-05-22 1991-01-29 Shockey Winfred S Self-operated stand up support apparatus
US5682771A (en) * 1996-03-12 1997-11-04 General Motors Corporation Knitted cover
US20090282604A1 (en) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-19 Nike, Inc. Apparel With Raised Course Crease
WO2017174101A1 (fr) * 2016-04-09 2017-10-12 Puma SE Procédé de tricotage d'un col d'un vêtement sur une machine à tricoter
CN111304813A (zh) * 2020-01-08 2020-06-19 东华大学 一种功能性全成型针织衣领及其制备方法
CN111394869A (zh) * 2020-05-04 2020-07-10 佛山市航宇针织有限公司 一种扇弧形横机Polo领及其织造工艺
CN113699668A (zh) * 2021-08-30 2021-11-26 广东溢达纺织有限公司 针织横机领及其制造方法与衣服
CN113868730A (zh) * 2021-10-26 2021-12-31 上海百琪迈科技(集团)有限公司 基于翻领曲线的服装复杂翻领网格几何折叠变形方法
EP4385349A1 (fr) 2022-12-14 2024-06-19 Lacoste Operations Col de vêtement tricoté comprenant une première portion souple courbe et une deuxième portion rigide courbe en maille structurée, procédé de fabrication d'un tel col et vêtement comprenant un tel col
US12302953B2 (en) 2021-07-02 2025-05-20 Puma SE Collar for a garment

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB8609491D0 (en) * 1986-04-18 1986-05-21 Courtaulds Plc Composite element & reinforcement
US5155865A (en) * 1991-04-23 1992-10-20 Lisco, Inc. Inflatable bladders for game gloves
US5155866A (en) * 1991-04-23 1992-10-20 Lisco, Inc. Inflatable game gloves
US5155864A (en) * 1991-04-23 1992-10-20 Lisco, Inc. Inflatable bladders for game gloves

Citations (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US874465A (en) * 1907-06-04 1907-12-24 John Howard Way Knit muffler.
US1087614A (en) * 1913-02-17 1914-02-17 Hyman Starr Collar for sweaters.
US1696671A (en) * 1927-07-02 1928-12-25 Mercury Mills Ltd Garment
US1787043A (en) * 1929-02-16 1930-12-30 Karger David Knitted cap and method of making the same
US1906212A (en) * 1927-01-21 1933-04-25 Lacks Process for making hats
US2120035A (en) * 1936-07-01 1938-06-07 Herman H Newberger Method of machine knitting seamless fashioned skirts
US2374758A (en) * 1942-06-24 1945-05-01 Dubied & Cie Sa E Production of regular goods in flat knitting machines
US2727243A (en) * 1953-08-24 1955-12-20 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Collars for garments
US2976708A (en) * 1959-02-02 1961-03-28 Barnett D Gordon Knitted garment with breast cups
US3030630A (en) * 1959-06-16 1962-04-24 Swiss Knitting Company Inc Shirt with size-adjustable collar
US3041626A (en) * 1959-01-16 1962-07-03 Light Bert Collars for shirts
US3119121A (en) * 1961-01-16 1964-01-28 Mayer Nathan Joinder for knitted fabrics and method of manufacture
US3131555A (en) * 1961-05-18 1964-05-05 Rappaport David Knit shirt or like garment

Patent Citations (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US874465A (en) * 1907-06-04 1907-12-24 John Howard Way Knit muffler.
US1087614A (en) * 1913-02-17 1914-02-17 Hyman Starr Collar for sweaters.
US1906212A (en) * 1927-01-21 1933-04-25 Lacks Process for making hats
US1696671A (en) * 1927-07-02 1928-12-25 Mercury Mills Ltd Garment
US1787043A (en) * 1929-02-16 1930-12-30 Karger David Knitted cap and method of making the same
US2120035A (en) * 1936-07-01 1938-06-07 Herman H Newberger Method of machine knitting seamless fashioned skirts
US2374758A (en) * 1942-06-24 1945-05-01 Dubied & Cie Sa E Production of regular goods in flat knitting machines
US2727243A (en) * 1953-08-24 1955-12-20 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Collars for garments
US3041626A (en) * 1959-01-16 1962-07-03 Light Bert Collars for shirts
US2976708A (en) * 1959-02-02 1961-03-28 Barnett D Gordon Knitted garment with breast cups
US3030630A (en) * 1959-06-16 1962-04-24 Swiss Knitting Company Inc Shirt with size-adjustable collar
US3119121A (en) * 1961-01-16 1964-01-28 Mayer Nathan Joinder for knitted fabrics and method of manufacture
US3131555A (en) * 1961-05-18 1964-05-05 Rappaport David Knit shirt or like garment

Cited By (19)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3335582A (en) * 1965-11-29 1967-08-15 Singer Co Simulated full fashioned knitted collar
US3875768A (en) * 1972-02-28 1975-04-08 Werner Arndt Knitted terminal edging
US4038840A (en) * 1974-05-16 1977-08-02 Castello Leo J Method of collar fabrication
US4987622A (en) * 1989-05-22 1991-01-29 Shockey Winfred S Self-operated stand up support apparatus
US5682771A (en) * 1996-03-12 1997-11-04 General Motors Corporation Knitted cover
US20090282604A1 (en) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-19 Nike, Inc. Apparel With Raised Course Crease
US8161574B2 (en) * 2008-05-16 2012-04-24 Nike, Inc. Apparel with raised course crease
WO2017174101A1 (fr) * 2016-04-09 2017-10-12 Puma SE Procédé de tricotage d'un col d'un vêtement sur une machine à tricoter
CN111304813A (zh) * 2020-01-08 2020-06-19 东华大学 一种功能性全成型针织衣领及其制备方法
CN111304813B (zh) * 2020-01-08 2021-07-06 东华大学 一种功能性全成型针织衣领及其制备方法
CN111394869A (zh) * 2020-05-04 2020-07-10 佛山市航宇针织有限公司 一种扇弧形横机Polo领及其织造工艺
US12302953B2 (en) 2021-07-02 2025-05-20 Puma SE Collar for a garment
CN113699668A (zh) * 2021-08-30 2021-11-26 广东溢达纺织有限公司 针织横机领及其制造方法与衣服
CN113699668B (zh) * 2021-08-30 2023-03-14 广东溢达纺织有限公司 针织横机领及其制造方法与衣服
CN113868730A (zh) * 2021-10-26 2021-12-31 上海百琪迈科技(集团)有限公司 基于翻领曲线的服装复杂翻领网格几何折叠变形方法
CN113868730B (zh) * 2021-10-26 2022-10-21 上海百琪迈科技(集团)有限公司 基于翻领曲线的服装复杂翻领网格几何折叠变形方法
EP4385349A1 (fr) 2022-12-14 2024-06-19 Lacoste Operations Col de vêtement tricoté comprenant une première portion souple courbe et une deuxième portion rigide courbe en maille structurée, procédé de fabrication d'un tel col et vêtement comprenant un tel col
US20240197013A1 (en) * 2022-12-14 2024-06-20 Lacoste Operations Knitted garment collar comprising a first curved flexible portion and a second structured stitch curved rigid portion, method for manufacturing such a collar and garment comprising such a collar
FR3143275A1 (fr) 2022-12-14 2024-06-21 Lacoste Operations Col de vêtement tricoté comprenant une première portion souple courbe et une deuxième portion rigide courbe en maille structurée, procédé de fabrication d’un tel col et vêtement comprenant un tel col

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB1044033A (en) 1966-09-28
DE1435863A1 (de) 1970-01-02
CH390841A (fr) 1965-04-30

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