Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/027—Fibers; Fibrils
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9733—Lichens
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• This invention relates generally to cosmetic compositions, and more specifically to the use of water-soluble fiber in cosmetic compositions.
• compositions of a cosmetic product must have certain qualities in order to be useful in a cosmetic product.
• cosmetic compositions typically contain mineral oil and/or petroleum due to the beneficial or pleasant tactile effects or sensations that these compositions impart when placed on the skin.
• a cosmetic product In general, a cosmetic product must have a smooth, rich and lubricous feel that is not slick or greasy. A cosmetic product must be non-irritating. Depending on the final product, a cosmetic must possess ease of absorption into the skin and must meet certain viscosity requirements. A cosmetic must be easily rinsed off of skin with water. Also, typically a cosmetic must have (a) a minimal amount of tackiness both upon application to the skin and upon drying of the cosmetic, (b) a moist feel, and (c) lack of abrasiveness. The properties listed above may be called the "beneficial tactile effects" of a cosmetic product. Finally, a cosmetic must contain no pathogens or gram-negative bacteria, the principal causative agents of numerous well-known bacterial infections. A cosmetic product, in fact, must meet even more stringent requirements than food in this last regard.
• Useful cosmetic components are desired for addition to cosmetics for other specific characteristics, in addition to tactile effects, that these components are able to impart. These attributes include, for example: suspension properties, emulsion stabilizing properties, and viscosity building properties.
• Types of cosmetic products for which these properties are desirable include the following: lotions, make-up, hand cleaners, shampoos, hair conditioners, shave creams, moisturizers, after-shave lotions, acne preparations, cleansers, soaps, deodorant sticks, bath products, and other personal care products.
• Suspension properties include the ability to uniformly disperse very small particles in a liquid medium.
• a cosmetic component useful for its ability to suspend solids must have the ability to suspend the solid requiring excessive viscosity. If excessive viscosity is required, this may render useless the cosmetic product for which the suspending agent is desired.
• the viscosity of useful components must not increase greatly over the long-term passage of time, as is encountered with many clays which are used for their suspending properties, in order to allow for a reasonable shelf life for the cosmetic product.
• the suspended solid or particles must also not tend to precipitate over the passage of time.
• a useful component must have beneficial tactile effects when applied to the skin, must be temperature stable, and must not suppress the formation of foam in products where foam is desirable.
• mineral oil increases the clogging of skin pores, which may lead to the formation of skin eruptions or a condition known as "comedogenicity.”
• a cosmetic product may afford greater water washability and attract less dirt onto the skin. Further, a cosmetic product lacking mineral oil or petroleum may also feel cleaner or lighter to the user.
• Silicone shampoos represent a recent development in the conditioning shampoo market.
• a useful conditioner for example, must afford the hair advantageous wet combing and dry combing characteristics.
• silicones which condition the hair usually put demands on the shampoo system which may require compromises.
• the silicone must remain dispersed throughout the shampoo over the shelf life of the product. This requires a carefully formulated system and may require special processing equipment.
• a useful shampoo must have a sufficient foaming ability.
• silicone conditioners are foam suppressants, a silicone-containing shampoo has to be formulated to overcome this problem, and even with a formulation which attempts to compensate for the suppression of foam, in almost all products the foaming is likely to be compromised.
• a conditioning component must also have the beneficial properties discussed herein, including beneficial tactile effects and stability over the shelf life of the product.
• one object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic product having beneficial tactile effects and which lacks mineral oil and/or petroleum and/or effectively reduce the amount of mineral oil and/or petroleum required in a given formulation.
• a further object of the invention is to provide a new and useful cosmetic component having beneficial suspension properties.
• a still further object of the invention is to provide a new and useful cosmetic component which acts as an epidermal conditioner.
• the invention relates to the production of cosmetic products generally, and more specifically, to the production of cosmetic products containing a water-soluble fiber based cosmetic component.
• a cosmetic component is produced by first dispersing in hot water a water-soluble fiber composed of about 4 to 6 weight percent beta glucan, about 1 to 5 weight percent fat, about 80 to 94 weight percent carbohydrates, and less than about 8 weight percent protein. After the water-soluble fiber forms a dispersion (e.g., a first paste or gel) with the hot water, the dispersion is mixed for 1 to 5 minutes. Following mixing, the product is cooled and then combined with one or more other stable cosmetic components to form a cosmetic product.
• a water-soluble fiber composed of about 4 to 6 weight percent beta glucan, about 1 to 5 weight percent fat, about 80 to 94 weight percent carbohydrates, and less than about 8 weight percent protein.
• a dispersion e.g., a first paste or gel
• the invention also recites a novel cosmetic component comprising: (a) about 4.0 to about 8.0 percent water by weight; (b) about 4.5 to about 5.5 percent beta-glucan by weight; (c) less than 8.0 percent protein by weight; (d) about 2.0 to 3.0 percent ash by weight; (e) about 1.0 to about 5.0 percent fat by weight; and (f) about 80 to about 94 percent carbohydrate by weight.
• the water soluble of the cosmetic component may be modified by (a) propoxylation, (b) ethoxylation, (c) quarternization or (d) fatty acid condensation to enhance the fiber's cosmetic properties. It is expected that quarternization will facilitate the substantivity and static reduction of the cosmetic component, while propoxylation, ethoxylation and fatty acid condensation will enhance the surface wetting characteristics of the cosmetic components.
• the present invention discloses the production of a cosmetic product containing a water-soluble fiber cosmetic component.
• the cosmetic based component is produced in accordance with the invention from a suitable composition.
• Suitable fiber compositions for use with the present invention may be derived from a modified oat flour produced by the method disclosed in Inglett U.S. Pat. No. 5,082,673, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
• the fiber composition preferably used in conjunction with the invention is a mixed linkage of beta-glucan of oat endosperm which is unbranched polysaccharides composed of (1 ⁇ 4) and (1 ⁇ 3) linked beta-D-glucopyranosyl units of varying proportions.
• This polysaccharide is found in tissue of many cereals besides oat, including barley, rye grass, bamboo, mung bean, numerous lichens and a variety of different grasses.
• the composition of this polysaccharide generally is made up of approximately 70% 1 ⁇ 4 linked and 30% 1 ⁇ 3 linked beta-D-glucopyranosyl units.
• Whole oat flour is composed of about 3 to 4 weight percent fat, about 12 to 16 weight percent protein, with the balance being carbohydrate or starch.
• starch The hydrolysis of oat flour (starch) involves the cleavage of the starch amylose and amylopectin chains with alpha-amylase at elevated temperatures. This reaction results in a fiber liquid fraction and an insoluble fiber protein, lipid complex. Upon completion of the reaction period, the enzyme is inactivated by either high temperature and/or low pH conditions. Starch of this nature occurs in a granular form. Starch granules are insoluble in cold water, but if they are disrupted by grinding they will swell in cold water and gel. If an intact starch granule is treated with warm water, a soluble portion of starch will diffuse out. In hot water the granules swell to a point that they burst.
• starch contains approximately 20% amylose, which is a water soluble fraction, and 80% amylopectin, which is water insoluble.
• amylose and amylopectin are hydrolyzed with alpha-amylose, the resulting components are water insoluble, low molecular weight polysaccharides or maltose, D-glucose and B-glucan. After hydrolysis and enzyme inactivation, the insolubles are removed through centrifugation, leaving the soluble fraction rich in low dextrose equivalent maltodextrins and 5% B-glucan.
• Oat gums which contain B-D-glucan have been identified as a potentially valuable industrial hydrocolloid and as an important dietary component with potential therapeutic value. Recent clinical and animal studies have shown the value of soluble oat fiber in regulating glucose metabolism and the reduction of serum cholesterol in humans.
• a cosmetic component is preferably produced by first dispersing in hot water a water-soluble fiber composition composed of about 4 to 6 weight percent beta glucan, about 1 to 5 weight percent fat, about 80 to 94 weight percent carbohydrates, and less than about 8 weight percent protein. After the water-soluble dispersion (e.g., a first paste or gel) forms a paste with the hot water, the dispersion is mixed for 1 to 5 minutes. Following mixing, the dispersion is cooled and then combined with one or more stable cosmetic components to form a cosmetic product.
• a water-soluble fiber composition composed of about 4 to 6 weight percent beta glucan, about 1 to 5 weight percent fat, about 80 to 94 weight percent carbohydrates, and less than about 8 weight percent protein.
• the water-soluble dispersion e.g., a first paste or gel
• the dispersion is mixed for 1 to 5 minutes. Following mixing, the dispersion is cooled and then combined with one or more stable cosmetic components to form a cosmetic product.
• the water-soluble fiber composition has the following composition:
• This fiber composition typically in the form of a powder, has a talc-like feel and a color that is close to beige.
• the composition is easy to handle and store.
• the fiber composition In aqueous solution, the fiber composition is cloudy due to the trace of fat in its composition and has a brown or yellow tint.
• the odor of the fiber composition is pleasant, similar to the odor of oatmeal.
• the composition has a low microorganism count measure by a total plate count of less than 100 per gram, which is necessary for materials used in cosmetics.
• the fiber composition has no gram-negative bacteria and no pathogens.
• the fiber composition in the form of a powder, is preferably dispersed in boiling water at a temperature of about 100° C (handling problems result at higher temperatures).
• This dispersion e.g., a first paste or gel
• a Waring blender for about 1 to 5 minutes, preferably about 2 minutes.
• This mixing process is a standard procedure performed with a commercially-available blender on medium-high speed. The hot water and mixing will form a first paste or gel.
• the first paste or gel may be chilled to about 4° C. (40° F.) or until a desired viscosity is achieved. Viscosity is preferably measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, which has a rotating spindle. Preferably, the viscosity will be between about 100 centipoise (very watery) and 200,000 centipoise (a hard paste), however the desired viscosity depends both on (a) the cosmetic product in which the final product will be utilized and (b) handling considerations. After this step, the product may be described as a "second paste, second gel” "fiber component” or a "cosmetic component.”
• the cosmetic component or fiber component is then combined with one or more stable cosmetic compounds to form a cosmetic product. It has been surprisingly found that when the fiber component is combined with one or more stable cosmetic compounds, the fiber component provides the cosmetic product with excellent tactile effects, and may be used as a substitute for oils, fats, waxes and petrolatum in cosmetic products.
• Products which may be produced according to the present invention include the following: lotions, make-up, hand cleaners, shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, hair conditioners, shave creams, moisturizers, after-shave lotion, acne preparations, cleansers, soaps, deodorant sticks, bath products, and other personal care products.
• Products produced by the present invention have exhibited the following qualities: safety; non-irritating to the skin; cost-competitiveness; ease of formulation; suitable tactile effects; cleaner, lighter feeling than oil-based compositions; and the ability to suspend solids without precipitation following the passage of time.
• the fiber component As a food product, the fiber component is considered as "GRAS" ("Generally Regarded As Safe”).
• the fiber component produced according to the present invention is also safe for use in cosmetics. Topical application, as shown by repeat insult patch testing on humans, is non-toxic.
• the fiber component is also non-cytotoxic and non-irritating to the eye, as shown by testing with an in-vitro Advanced Tissue Sciences Skin Model ZK 1300. Ingestion of the fiber component is also non-toxic, as shown by feeding studies run on animals.
• the fiber component is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
• the fiber component has also been tested by in-vitro skin model work.
• the fiber useful with the invention is soluble in water, however, it forms cloudy solutions due to the small proportion of fat and protein present as part of its composition.
• the fiber is also soluble in glycerine at up to a concentration of 2 percent.
• a solution formed with glycerine is also cloudy. At levels exceeding 2 percent, the fiber begins to disperse itself in the glycerine with a proportional rise in viscosity.
• the fiber composition of the present invention is referred to as RITAVENA 5 by the assignee of the application.
• Table II illustrates the solubility of the fiber component in various solvents.
• the viscosity of the aqueous fiber solution increases slightly up to a concentration of about 12 percent and then increases rapidly between concentrations of 12 percent and 25 percent.
• Table III illustrates the relationship of viscosity to concentration of a water solution of the fiber. It can be seen that a firmer gel forms when samples are allowed to equilibrate at the lower temperature.
• the viscosity of a water solution of the fiber is also dependent upon temperature. A 20 percent water solution was prepared and viscosities were taken at various temperatures as the sample was allowed to warm from 4° C. to 37.8° C. The results are shown below in Table IV. All viscosities were run at the temperatures indicated on a Brookfield viscometer with spindle #TB at 10 rpm.
• Viscosity is also dependent upon the pH of the water solution of the fiber of the present invention. Twenty percent fiber solutions were prepared at 100° C. and conditioned at 4° C. for 16 hours and then allowed to come to room temperature. Six samples were prepared at pH values indicated in Table VII. The viscosities were measured on a Brookfield RVF viscometer with spindle TC at 10 rpm. Within the range tested (4.6-8.8) the pH was not considered to have any real effect upon the viscosities of the systems. The results are shown in Table VII.
• the fiber component described above may be combined with other stable cosmetic components to form various cosmetic products. There are at least three areas of application for the fiber component of the invention, which will now be described.
• the beneficial, novel tactile effects of the fiber component i.e. the "feel" of the fiber component, will allow the fiber component to replace mineral oil, waxes, fats, petroleum, and other hydrocarbon-containing oils in cosmetic products, while still furnishing suitable tactile effects to the cosmetic product.
• the fiber component may be used at about 0.5 to 15.0 weight percent, preferably about 1 to 3 weight percent, based on the weight of the cosmetic product.
• the fiber component is used in conjunction with certain "carbomer” gels.
• a carbomer is an acrylate with cross-linking, and may be described as lacking cohesiveness with all other materials, including the carbomer itself.
• One such carbomer is sold commercially under the trade name of ACRITAMER® by the R.I.T.A. Corporation, the co-assignee of this application.
• Carbomers which may be used in accordance with the present invention include the following CTFA-designated carbomers: 940, 934 and 941, and preferably carbomer 940. Carbomer gels do not hold together well, and particles of gel will break apart from each other and will run off the skin.
• the fiber component when used in conjunction with a carbomer for use in a cosmetic product, a gel results that has a much more cohesive and workable feel than that of a carbomer alone.
• the addition of the fiber also (a) increases the viscosity and (b) gives the mixture an excellent slip which has the feel of an emollient oil rather than a water based gum.
• the fiber component is used in conjunction with both a carbomer (at about 1%) and carboxy methyl cellulose (at about 0.1%).
• the cosmetic component 0.5 to 5.0% composition of "RITAVENA 5" was used in conjunction with 1% ACRITAMER 934 (Carbomer 934).
• ACRITAMER 934 Carbomer 934
• Viscosity enhancement There is an additive effect on viscosity between the ACRITAMER and the RITAVENA 5.
• An emulsion facial cleanser was prepared with 8% mineral oil and compared with a non-mineral oil formula with 3% RITAVENA 5.
• the RITAVENA 5 system was preferred 75% to 25% over the mineral oil system with regard to:
• Table X lists the composition of six samples of a novel moisturizer prepared in accordance with the present invention. Testing of the moisturizer samples showed satisfactory performance.
• the moisturizers were characterized by the substantial absence of mineral oil. That is, the compositions contain less than 5% by weight mineral oil other than oil that was unintentionally or inadvertently added through addition of other components.
• various amounts of mineral oil were added to the compositions to demonstrate the partial replacement of mineral oil in water in oil emulsion systems. The resulting compositions showed reduced greasiness with excellent feel and rub characteristics.
• Table XI compares the composition and performance of a sample of a novel moisturizer prepared in accordance with the present invention with a control sample.
• the moisturizer sample demonstrates a system where the novel cosmetic component had a positive effect on the stability of the cosmetic product.
• Table XII lists the composition and performance of three samples of a novel cleaner prepared in accordance with the present invention. The cleaner samples performed satisfactorily.
• Table XIII lists the composition of two samples of a novel cleanser prepared in accordance with the present invention. This is an example of an application where hydrocarbon is replaced with the novel cosmetic component.
• the moisturizer samples performed satisfactorily and demonstrated improved foaming performance over a cosmetic product which contained mineral oil.
• Table XIV demonstrates the viscosity of two samples of the novel cosmetic product prepared in accordance with the present invention. The samples are compared with a petrolatum control product. This is a further example of replacing hydrocarbon with the novel cosmetic products.
• a cosmetic product may be produced in which the fiber component functions as a suspending agent after combination with one or more stable cosmetic compounds.
• Cosmetic products in which the fiber component is useful as a suspending agent include: liquid make-up, cleansers with abrasives, anti-dandruff shampoos and sunscreens.
• the suspending properties of the fiber component allow suspension of the following solids: pigments, anti-dandruff agents, opacifiers and abrasives. More specifically, in accordance with the present invention, the following useful materials may be suspended: sulfur, walnut shells, titanium dioxide, selenium disulfide, iron oxides, aluminum oxides, pumice, make-up-pigments and zinc omadine.
• an anti-dandruff shampoo is prepared wherein 2 to 4 weight percent, preferably 3 weight percent, fiber is used to suspend sulfur at 2 weight percent. Sulfur does not tend to precipitate out of the shampoo over the long term.
• a liquid eye shadow and liquid eye foundation may be prepared.
• the fiber component has the ability to suspend make-up pigment and also imparts beneficial tactile effects to the cosmetic product, including a moist, non-abrasive feel to the skin.
• the fiber component is compatible with ionic cleansing agents for use in shampoos and cleansers. When the fiber component is used in a cosmetic product, the fiber component has been found to be more effective as a suspending agent than carbomer gels.
• Table XV lists the composition of three samples of a novel anti-dandruff shampoo prepared in accordance with the present invention. The samples performed satisfactorily in suspending sulfur, the active ingredient in the shampoo.
• Table XVI lists the composition of three samples of a novel lotion hand cleaner with an abrasive prepared in accordance with the present invention.
• the moisturizer samples performed satisfactorily in suspending the abrasive solid.
• a third feature or area of application for the fiber component is utilization of the unexpected conditioning properties of the fiber component.
• a cosmetic product may be produced wherein the fiber component functions as an epidermal conditioner after combination with one or more stable cosmetic components.
• hair conditioners and conditioning shampoos may be produced.
• the fiber component may be combined with detergents and thickeners to form a cosmetic product.
• stable cosmetic components with which the fiber component may be combined are: alcohol sulfates, ether sulfates, amides, polyethylene glycol esters and lactylates.
• a shampoo product produced by the inventive method uses the fiber of the fiber component at about 2 weight percent in combination with additional cosmetic components. Because the fiber does not form clear solutions in water, a lotion-type shampoo, similar to those commercially-available such as Pert-Plus, is preferably utilized. As a result of the fiber component's excellent conditioning properties, shampoos produced by the inventive method exhibit (a) very good wet combing and dry combing characteristics, (b) beneficial tactile effects, and (c) satisfactory foaming properties.
• the fiber component is used as a conditioning agent in conjunction with a silicone conditioning agent in a multiple-conditioner shampoo.
• a number of novel silicone shampoos were produced in accordance with the present invention in which the fiber component functions as an epidermal conditioning agent after combination with one or more stable cosmetic components.
• the samples performed satisfactorily, and the results are contained in Tables XVII-XVIII.

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Citations (16)

• 1993
  • 1993-10-21 EP EP93117102A patent/EP0595209A3/en not_active Withdrawn
  • 1993-10-22 CA CA002109000A patent/CA2109000A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 1993-10-25 JP JP5266075A patent/JP2532817B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1995
  • 1995-02-23 US US08/393,047 patent/US5573785A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1995-05-30 US US08/454,020 patent/US5653967A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related

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