WO1989005372A1 - Procede permettant de reguler le retrecissement de vetements contenant du coton - Google Patents

Procede permettant de reguler le retrecissement de vetements contenant du coton Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1989005372A1
WO1989005372A1 PCT/US1988/004269 US8804269W WO8905372A1 WO 1989005372 A1 WO1989005372 A1 WO 1989005372A1 US 8804269 W US8804269 W US 8804269W WO 8905372 A1 WO8905372 A1 WO 8905372A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
shrinkage
garments
garment
moisture
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/US1988/004269
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English (en)
Inventor
William F. Lapierre
Kris Swamy
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Westpoint Pepperell Inc
Original Assignee
Westpoint Pepperell Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Westpoint Pepperell Inc filed Critical Westpoint Pepperell Inc
Publication of WO1989005372A1 publication Critical patent/WO1989005372A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/39—Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
    • D06M15/423—Amino-aldehyde resins

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a unigue method for fabricating garments made of fabrics whose essential and primary fiber is cotton to produce garments having attributes far superior to those produced by present conventional methods.
  • the finished garments made according to the inventive process will have significantly less shrinkage than those convention ⁇ ally produced when laundered and subjected to tumble drying.
  • the garment at point-of-sale has: superior fit, that is, has not been made significantly oversized or need not be purchased oversized by the consumer to allow for subsequent shrinkage; garments produced by the invention have remarkably soft hand and there is much less deterioration of the cotton fabric's tensile and burst strength characteristics which, invariably, results from conventional use of resins to control shrinkage.
  • a knit garment composed of various styles or constructions may have some parts compacted and with luster and additional one ⁇ sided effects and others, for example, ribs and collars that are not and cannot be subjected to compaction, will differ in appearance from a visual and feel point of view and thus is undesirable.
  • Compacting is not effective on resinated and fully-cured fabrics.
  • mechanical preshrinking systems are generally fairly expensive because of the capital invest ⁇ ment in equipment and reduced production speed.
  • a textile fabric essentially constructed of cotton fibers is precisely constructed to have a uniform geometrical relationship and uniform dimensional forces between the yarns thereof.
  • Such fabric is finished by applying thereto a liquid mixture containing a resin (for example DMDHEU) and a silicone, the quantity of resin and silicone being sufficient to permit a prescribed degree of initial shrinkage of the fabric (5% - 20%) (measured by AATCC Test Method 135) when the fabric is impreg- nated with moisture (15% - 30% by weight) and then tumble dried.
  • a resin for example DMDHEU
  • silicone silicone
  • garments are then constructed oversize to compensate for such shrinkage.
  • a quantity of garments are placed into an apparatus (for example a commercial dryer) in which they are agitated by tumbling while the fabric of said garment is impregnated with water or steam from about 15% - 30% by fabric weight. There- after, the garments are tumble-dried and are individually pre- shrunk to a prescribed size.
  • the method of the invention has been applied to knit fabric and knit garments wherein the fabric and garments have been treated with resin and silicone to allow for an initial shrinkage of about 10%.
  • the invention produces garments which when washed and tumble dried threreafter will reduce total shrinkage up to 95%.
  • the single figure includes a series of graphical il- lustrations relating to the proportionate yield (yards per pound) and width in ratio to courses perinch or inches of input yarn per feed per revolution at zero by zero shrinkage (zero shrinkage in width and zerozero shrinkage in length or at "Z/Z") .
  • This knowledge allows the correct prediction of input yarn in order to arrive at the correct fabric yield prior to treatment described in this document.
  • several experiments were conducted varying the courses per inch or knitting input inches and then processing the samples to get zero by zero shrinkage and also different levels of shrinkage, for example, 5 percent shrinkage in length direction and 10 percent shrinkage in length direction at different stages of processing. These variables may be altered as specific end garment fabric yields require.
  • the figure includes lines A through F which may be described as follows:
  • A represents greige fabric courses per inch(CPI) at zero by zero (Z/Z) shrinkage levels.
  • 11 B" represents greige fabric linear yield changing in proportion to CPI at Z/Z.
  • C represents resinated fabric yield changing in ratio to knitted CPI at zero shrinkage.
  • D represents resinated fabric yield at 5% residual - length shrinkage.
  • 11 E represents resinated fabric yield at 10% residual - length shrinkage.
  • npn represents greige fabric width at Z/Z changing in ratios to CPI.
  • G represents width of dyed and resinated fabric at Z/Z changing in proportion to CPI but at a different rate than greige fabric.
  • the top of the X - axis gives the scale of Courses per Inch in the greige fabric after knitting. This can also be controlled by the bottom of the X - axis which is the yarn feed length per revolution per knitting feed (Inches per Revolu ⁇ tion) .
  • the Y - axis give the width of fabric at Zero/Zero shrinkage, CPI at Zero/Zero shrinkage as well as the linear yield in Yards per pound of fabric scale.
  • the concept of the present invention shall be disclosed in relation to knit garments of 100% cotton and more specifi ⁇ cally, garments made of circular knitted fabrics.
  • Untreated knitted fabrics of cotton fiber are subject to after wash shrinkage of up to thirty percent, while an untreated woven fabric of cotton generally may shrink a maximum of 10% - 15% in length and width.
  • the differences in shrinkage between knit and woven fabric are related to the nature of respective fabric constructions and the differences between knitting and weaving processes.
  • the fabric is formed by a series of interrelated loops which provide give or stretch when worn, while woven fabric is made up of crossing intertwined warp and filling yarns to provide a more restrained fabric web.
  • fabric whether knitted or woven be prepared for subsequent precision shrinka-ge of a predetermined amount after the said fabric has been converted into garments.
  • the examples given herein shall be with respect to knitted 100% cotton fabric and will prepare such- fabric for a subsequent predicted percent shrinkage in length and width in the garment phase.
  • the first step in achieving precision controlled shrinkage requires the fabric to be knitted uniformly.
  • Line “B”, namely greige yield is a straight line at zero/zero shrinkage even though the knit CPI may vary, because at different knitting CPI, the fabric construction may be very loose or very tight and when one obtains zero/zero shrinkage, the fabric relaxes proportionately to the different knitting CPI orfeed length resulting in the same yield in proportion to the width change.
  • Line “E” represents the yield at 10% length shrink ⁇ age. For Knit CPI of 35, 30 and 25 respectively, the yield of fabric at 10% shrinkage levels would be 1.82, 1.89, and 1.96 respectively.
  • Line “C” which depicts the relationship of fabric yield at zero/zero shrinkage, give fabric yields of 1.66, 1.70, and 1.74 linear yards per pound of fabric.
  • the fabric shall befinished by padding on a finishing mixture which for illustrative purposes may be described to include the following listed chemical constituents:
  • the normal finishing method is to saturate the textile substrate with the above mentioned finishing composition followed by squeezing out the excess chemicals through a pad mangle or other means and then drying and baking in a oven at temperatures of 290 -350 F for about 30 seconds to 5 minutes so that the water can be evaporated first followed by condens ⁇ ing or crosslinking the resinous compounds to the cellulose substrate.
  • the temperature of curing is to saturate the textile substrate with the above mentioned finishing composition followed by squeezing out the excess chemicals through a pad mangle or other means and then drying and baking in a oven at temperatures of 290 -350 F for about 30 seconds to 5 minutes so that the water can be evaporated first followed by condens ⁇ ing or crosslinking the resinous compounds to the cellulose substrate.
  • the temperature of curing is to saturate the textile substrate with the above mentioned finishing composition followed by squeezing out the excess chemicals through a pad mangle or other means and then drying and baking in a oven at temperatures of 290 -350 F for
  • the dwell time can vary inversely with the cure temperature. In other words, longer curing times are used for lower temperature and shorter times at higher temperatures..
  • the chemicals listed are commercially available and normally used by the textile industry and at the individual - chemical's active, solids concentrations, that are normally encountered in the trade.
  • shrinkage results by this invention compared to those by the conventional method are provided in the following examples. These examples give performance of various fabric constructions and garments constructed from them.
  • Inventive Cotton Process or ICP refers to this invention and the term shrinkage or residual shrinkage are according to the standard methods practiced in the textile manufacturing, garment manufacturing and retail merchants industries, and refer to one or more of the following test procedures:
  • Finish Mixes A and B A 100% cotton interlock construction knit garment (ladies pullover type) made from 36 Ne yarn and having a weight of 4.9 ounces per square yard was processed through the following finish formulations, designated as Finish Mixes A and B:
  • Example 2 A 100% cotton men's shirt in pique knit construction (dyed red color) made from 18 Ne yarn and having an initial weight of 5.7 ounces per square yard had the following perfor ⁇ mance characteristics:
  • Example 3 A 100% cotton men's shirt in pique construction made from 18 Ne yarn and having unit weight of 5.70 ounces per square yard had the following performance characteristics:
  • the fabric is similar in construction as in Example 2 but dyed with different color (pink) .
  • the finish formulation is same as Finish Mix A.
  • the finish recipe for the fabric in Example 4 above is as follows:
  • Example 2 The garments made from fabric in Example 2 were tested after single and multiple home wash and tumble dry cycles. The average test results are summarized below:
  • Example 7 The garment in Example 3 with a weight of 5.7 ounces per square yard had the following measurements: The garments had only single treatment of ICP.
  • the following garments had two treatments of ICP.
  • Example 4 weight 6.11 ounces per square yard had the following measurements after each stage of process:
  • the garments had only single treatment of ICP.
  • the garments had two treatments of ICP,
  • the fabrics were impregnated in the above padding sol ⁇ ution to a wet pick up of 80% for fabric dyed styles and 75% wet pick up for yarn dyed styles, dried in an oven at 275 F, followed by curing at 340 F for 3 minutes.
  • the finished fabrics were tested and the results are given below:
  • FD greige knitted fabric followed by dyeing in a fabric dyeing machine
  • YD dyeing the yarn first followed by knitting the dyed yarn to produce fabrics having different colors.
  • reduction in size refers to percent shrinkage removal and bulking of the fabric as a result of the subsequent ICP treatment.
  • the figures are in inches and represent average values of 6 garments tested.
  • the figures are in inches and represent average values of 6 garments tested.
  • Ne Jersey FD Pink 4.64 9.0x15.0 2.0x4.0 18 Ne Jersey FD Pink 5.49 4.
  • the invention does not pertain to only those styles and conventional variations described herein; but these demonstrate the effectiveness of the invention on various fabric styles differing in yarn size, knitting construction and the method of preparing various fabric styling, namely, process variations and methods of achieving different styling concepts.
  • By reducing the amount of resin used only some of the available sites for chemically bonding resin to cotton fiber are used. Consequently, the silicone used in this process will bond with available remaining sites to produce a permanently bonded finish which will not easily wash out.
  • the purpose of the silicone crosslinking finish is to introduce elasticity to the fabric which during the ICP treatment allows the fabric to relax and accomplish an overall bulking effect, and reducing the the remaining residual shrinkage while maintaining the higher fabric strength.
  • a secondary purpose of the silicone finish is to impart softer hand to the fabric and modify the tendency of the resin's harsh hand and the stiffness which will also prevent the fabric to shrink during the subsequent ICP treatment.
  • the data demonstrate that in order to impart very low levels of shrinkage, without the invention process, extremely large levels of resin chemicals are otherwise needed, as evidenced by the high shrinkage in the "as is" samples; but these high residual shrinkage levels after the inventive process (which will be described later) are reduced to very low levels which would otherwise require larger chemical concentra- tions to achieve the same low levels and theobvious resultant lower strength.
  • knit cotton fabric shall be knitted "oversize" by an amount corresponding to the degree of shrinkage predicted to occur during subsequent shrinkage of garments made from such fabric.
  • the disclosed quantity of and proportions of chemicals will stabilize shrinkage after garments utilizing knitted cotton fabric subjected to such finishing treatment have been initially preshrunk about 10% in length and width. Therefore the fabric itself will be knitted oversize by 10%, and in terms of yield shall have a decreased density and weight of 10% in respect of its weight before subsequent 10% shrinkage. It follows that each garment shall be constructed oversize by 10% to accommo ⁇ date the aforementioned shrinkage.
  • a batch (80 - 150 pounds) of oversize garments (to compensate for 10% shrinkage) will be loaded into a commercial tumble-dryer which has been fitted with means to moisten the garments by spraying these with either steam or water. Treatment is done initially in a uniform manner while tumbling the garments until each garment has absorbed about 15% - 30% moisture by weight of fabric in each garment. Immediately thereafter, moisturization shall cease and the garments shall be tumble dried.
  • the garments and fabrics alike were subjected to moisturizing and drying steps; each cycle consists of steaming for 15 minutes followed by tumble drying and cooling for 15 minutes.
  • each garment shall have been preshrunk approximately 10% to a predetermined size for point of sale.
  • the resulting garment has a "lofty" quality to the hand, without the mussy look which washing or repeated mois- turizings would impart.
  • the garment shall have shrunk uniformly in length and width to a prescribed fit which will not shrink out of fit even after many washes.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à un procédé grâce auquel des tissus 100 % coton ou des tissus essentiellement en coton sont traités de façon à présenter un degré de rétrécissement et une densité prévus. Les vêtements sont confectionnés dans une taille plus grande à partir des tissus préparés, de façon à compenser le rétrécissement prévu. Les vêtements sont humidifiés selon une teneur comprise entre 15 et 30 % tout en étant agités puis séchés au tambour. Les vêtements ainsi préparés présentent un faible rétrécissement résiduel permettant d'obtenir une valeur minimale de 95% de la taille de départ, un toucher et un aspect supérieurs.
PCT/US1988/004269 1987-12-01 1988-11-30 Procede permettant de reguler le retrecissement de vetements contenant du coton Ceased WO1989005372A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US12784987A 1987-12-01 1987-12-01
US127,849 1987-12-01
US26681188A 1988-11-03 1988-11-03
US266,811 1988-11-03

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1989005372A1 true WO1989005372A1 (fr) 1989-06-15

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US1988/004269 Ceased WO1989005372A1 (fr) 1987-12-01 1988-11-30 Procede permettant de reguler le retrecissement de vetements contenant du coton

Country Status (3)

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AU (1) AU2940589A (fr)
CA (1) CA1313452C (fr)
WO (1) WO1989005372A1 (fr)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2839429A (en) * 1949-10-31 1958-06-17 Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd Treatment of cellulosic textile materials
US3839288A (en) * 1970-04-28 1974-10-01 Montefibre Spa Process for the bulk polymerization of acrylonitrile
US4421880A (en) * 1979-08-03 1983-12-20 International Minerals & Chemical Corp. Aminoplast resin crosslinking agents and nitroalkanol used to treat cellulose

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2839429A (en) * 1949-10-31 1958-06-17 Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd Treatment of cellulosic textile materials
US3839288A (en) * 1970-04-28 1974-10-01 Montefibre Spa Process for the bulk polymerization of acrylonitrile
US4421880A (en) * 1979-08-03 1983-12-20 International Minerals & Chemical Corp. Aminoplast resin crosslinking agents and nitroalkanol used to treat cellulose

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA1313452C (fr) 1993-02-09
AU2940589A (en) 1989-07-05

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