WO1993006813A2 - Composition de traitement capillaire - Google Patents

Composition de traitement capillaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1993006813A2
WO1993006813A2 PCT/GB1992/001767 GB9201767W WO9306813A2 WO 1993006813 A2 WO1993006813 A2 WO 1993006813A2 GB 9201767 W GB9201767 W GB 9201767W WO 9306813 A2 WO9306813 A2 WO 9306813A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
lipid vesicles
vesicles
composition
conditioning
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/GB1992/001767
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English (en)
Other versions
WO1993006813A3 (fr
Inventor
Rodney Cotterill
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Protherics Medicines Development Ltd
Original Assignee
Proteus Molecular Design Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Proteus Molecular Design Ltd filed Critical Proteus Molecular Design Ltd
Publication of WO1993006813A2 publication Critical patent/WO1993006813A2/fr
Publication of WO1993006813A3 publication Critical patent/WO1993006813A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/127—Synthetic bilayered vehicles, e.g. liposomes or liposomes with cholesterol as the only non-phosphatidyl surfactant
    • A61K9/1277—Preparation processes; Proliposomes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions for the treatment of hair, and more particularly to such compositions for cosmetically treating hair which has become dry, damaged or prone to damage by everyday handling.
  • the invention will be further described by reference to the treatment of human hair, but we believe it is also applicable to the treatment of animal hair.
  • Hair is composed of dead cells which contain the fibrous protein keratin.
  • Non-replacement occurs either in the case of baldness, the medical name of which is alopecia, and in some illnesses, the loss in the latter case being usually temporary.
  • Hair fibres are composed of two parts, the internal root and the external shaft.
  • the shaft comprises three layers.
  • Most hairs have a thin hole down through the centre, running the entire length of the strand, this being known as the medulla, and the outermost surface is called the cuticle. As will be enlarged upon later, both of these regions are potential trouble spots when it comes to the phenomenon of "split ends".
  • the cortex forms a third layer, below the cuticle, and together with the cuticle is responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair.
  • the hair is subjected to a not insignificant amount of mechanical action as a result of normal everyday handling including washing, brushing, drying, often resulting in actual physical damage.
  • a common manifestation of such damage is the cleaving in a longitudinal direction of the termini of the hair strands, a phenomenon commonly referred to as 'split ends' .
  • Mechanical damage to the hair often arises during post-shampoo drying, particularly through vigorous application of a towel. This indeed can cause split ends if it is particularly violent.
  • Split ends usually develop some time after the drying, however, and the underlying cause is the removal of those natural lubricants that protect the hair against undue brittleness.
  • Such a condition makes the hair dry, difficult to manage and the hair is often viewed by the individual as being unsightly. The hair may become brittle or dry as a result of other factors.
  • the general condition of the hair is a reasonably reliable indicator of an individual's state of health, and some hair troubles actually reveal an underlying illness.
  • a case in point is thyroid deficiency, which manifests itself through, amongst other things, dry "lifeless" hair.
  • the regions of the skin lying between the hair follicles are dotted with sweat glands, and the hair strands are constantly being moistened by the latter's excretions.
  • the hair should, as a consequence, be washed at least once a week, and more often than this if there is a tendency towards greasiness.
  • compositions for treating or "conditioning" such damaged hair, and also for imparting desired cosmetic characteristics such as gloss, shine and softness to hair.
  • Such compositions aim to replace the lubricants naturally produced by the body by substances that emulate, as closely as possible, the liquids otherwise produced by the body itself.
  • most of these preparations suffer from the disadvantage that as a result of their coating action on the hair, the hair becomes oily or sticky after their application.
  • viscosity and surface tension effects they are not efficient at entering the minute surface cracks in the hair which initiate and propagate the "split ends" condition.
  • we provide a method of treating or conditioning hair comprising applying lipid vesicles thereto.
  • lipid vesicles for the conditioning of hair.
  • the method of the present invention is of particular relevance to the treatment of human hair, the method can also be used to treat animals, particularly show animals for example cats, dogs , horses.
  • Lipid vesicles also known as liposomes
  • liposomes are known for therapeutic purposes (for the delivery of drugs) and they also have application in relation to cosmetic preparations for application to facial skin.
  • liposomes act by fusing with the plasma membrane of cells thereby allowing additional impermeable components contained therein to penetrate the cells.
  • Such cosmetic preparations are, of course, usually left in situ and not generally removed.
  • Such cosmetic preparations containing liposomes as have been proposed are, because they are intended for topical use on the skin, generally hydrophobic and do not readily emulsify in water. Such preparations may require detergent for removal, were this to be desired.
  • application of such preparations to moistened surfaces causes problems.
  • the lipid components which form the constituents of the vesicles may be either phospholipid i.e. based on glycerol or sphingosine, or glycolipid i.e. based on sphingosine. Phospholipids are however preferred.
  • the alcohol moieties which comprise the phosphoglycerides serine, choline and ethanolamine are particularly preferred, and of the fatty acid chains, those having a chain length of C u to C 24 are preferred.
  • the fatty acid chains may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and palmitic, myristic, oleic, stearic, arachidonic, linolenic, linoleic and arachidic acids are particularly preferred.
  • the vesicles may additionally comprise other less common membrane lipids, for example, sterols, such as cholesterol.
  • the vesicles may be comprised of one or more different lipid molecules of the same or different class.
  • the lipid vesicles may be unilamellar or multilamellar.
  • the lipid vesicles may be prepared by conventional techniques, for example by exposure of aqueous solutions or suspensions of lipids to ultrasonic energy.
  • the aqueous suspension for sonication typically comprises such lipids at a concentration of from 0.1% to 10% (wt/volume) , preferably from 1% to 5%.
  • Sonication may conveniently be effected at a frequency of e.g. from 20 kHz to 200 kHz, preferably from 30 to 100 kHz for a period of from 10 minutes to 2 hours, preferably 30 to 60 minutes.
  • the suspension prior to sonication may additionally comprise further hair treatment components for inclusion within the vesicles, for example, reducing agents.
  • the lipid vesicles may also be prepared in known manner by injection of a solution of the lipid(s) in a water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvent, e.g. ethanol through a narrow orifice into an aqueous medium.
  • a water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvent e.g. ethanol
  • lipid vesicles may be formed by contacting a solution of lipids in an organic oil with water, with the input of sufficient mechanical energy, preferably ultrasonic energy, whereupon the lipids leach into the water and vesicles form at the interface.
  • a suitable solution of lipids in an organic oil can be formed either by dissolution of lipids in a suitable oil, or can be obtained from natural sources, e.g. linseed.
  • the lipid vesicles for treating "split ends" have the additional desired characteristics of being non- toxic, as well as dermatologically and cosmetically acceptable.
  • the vesicles generally having a size of between 1 and 0.1 micron, are able to penetrate the longitudinal cracks which develop in the hair cuticle thereby sealing such cracks and preventing the further splitting of the hair termini.
  • the penetration of lipid vesicles into cracks in the hair has been confirmed by EDAX (energy dispersive analysis X-ray) spectroscopy in conjunction with scanning electron microscopy.
  • EDAX ⁇ When tuned to highlight phosphorus, for example, EDAX ⁇ reveals that phospholipid deposits, emanating from the lipid vesicles, are laid down within the surface cracks of the treated hair.
  • the inclusion of the lipid vesicles within the hair fibres improves the hair suppleness which renders it more able to bear the mechanical stresses of everyday wear and tear, and by penetration into the hair fibre avoids the formation of a continuous film of fatty or greasy material on the surface. Such a continuous film would give the hair the oily or sticky feeling that the lipid vesicles are designed to avoid.
  • the lipid vesicles used according to the present invention may simply contain water within their central spherical cavity but may also contain aqueous solutions or suspensions of additional ingredients which may be of organic or inorganic nature, for example, lubrication enhancing agents, or reducing agents.
  • the vesicles for use in the present invention may desirably be provided in the form of a composition essentially comprising an aqueous suspension of lipid vesicles, optionally together with one or more additional ingredients, for example colouring agents and fragrances, to enhance the cosmetic acceptability of such compositions.
  • additional ingredients for example colouring agents and fragrances
  • Antibacterial agents to prevent microbiological growth during storage and/or other preservatives may also be present.
  • additional ingredients, particularly preservatives should not disrupt the liposome structure; if desired, microscopic analysis of the compositions may be carried out to confirm the structural integrity of the liposomes.
  • Suitable preservatives include parabens.
  • compositions in a sterile package for single application only preservatives are of course optional.
  • Aqueous-organic liquid carriers may also be used, provided they are compatible with hair and do not destabilise the lipid vesicles.
  • Stabilising and thickening agents may also be used, for example carbamers, to render the aqueous liposome suspension into the form of a lotion.
  • Such additional ingredients should of course also be topically acceptable in terms of being non-toxic, non- irritant and desirably non-allergenic.
  • lipid vesicles in combination with one or more topically acceptable carriers or adjuvants suitable for the treatment of hair selected from eg. preservatives, fragrances, colouring agents, buffering agents.
  • the lipid vesicle composition may be provided in aqueous form buffered to a pH of from 4.5 to 6.5. Such compositions may be formulated into gels, creams, lotions, and may be provided in aqueous or spray form.
  • compositions containing liposomes as described above are generally formulated so as to be more hydrophilic than would be the case, for example, for skin preparations. It is clearly important to the successful, or preferred use of the compositions of this invention that they are able to be rinsed easily from the hair without necessarily using a detergent or without leaving a greasy deposit. It is also a feature of the compositions of this invention that they can successfully be applied to hair that is already moist. Such would not be the case in respect of compositions that were essentially hydrophobic.
  • the conditioning compositions may be formulated for separate application following shampoo treatment. In this case, the method of use comprises bringing the composition into contact with the hair, preferably in the wet state immediately after shampooing and rinsing. The hair may be partially dried eg. by mopping with a towel prior to use. This conditioning treatment is preferably carried out after each shampoo.
  • the conditioner may be applied to dry hair between shampoo treatments.
  • the conditioning compositions may also be provided as formulations in admixture with a shampoo for simultaneous application since the non-oily nature of these novel conditioning compositions obviates the above-mentioned disadvantages of combining conventional conditioners with shampoos.
  • the method of use comprises bringing the composition into contact with the hair, preferably in the wet state.
  • a hair treatment composition comprising a topically acceptable detergent together with a suspension of lipid vesicles.
  • a hair treatment composition wherein an aqueous suspension of lipid vesicles is admixed with a detergent, optionally together with at least one physiologically acceptable carrier suitable for topical application.
  • a hair treatment product comprising a topically acceptable detergent and an aqueous dispersion of lipid vesicles for simultaneous or sequential application to the hair.
  • a saturated solution of lecithin in rape seed oil was prepared, poured onto the surface of distilled water and left for five minutes for the interface to stabilise.
  • the biphasic system was subjected to sonication at a frequency of 30 kHz for 10 minutes and left to stand for one day.
  • the oil phase was carefully removed with a pipette and the aqueous phase decanted leaving a precipitate of excess lecithin.
  • the resulting aqueous phase was found to contain about 1% (weight/volume) of liposomes.
  • the conditioning composition was formulated by adding 0.1 ml of a 1% solution of chloroxylenol (preservative) and 1.0 ml of musk oil (fragrance) to 1 litre of liposome suspension.
  • Example 2
  • Linseed oil was poured onto the surface of distilled water and left for five minutes for the interface to stabilise.
  • the biphasic system was subjected to sonication at a frequency of 47 kHz for 15 minutes. After this period, inspection of the system revealed that the aqueous phase had developed a characteristic cloudy appearance, due to the suspension of vesicles formed by the phospholipids which had leached out of the linseed oil.
  • the sonicated mixture was left to stand for 1 day to allow the oil and water phases to separate out.
  • the aqueous phase was carefully siphoned off and the siphoning process repeated to ensure an oil free suspension.
  • the resulting aqueous phase was found to contain about 1% (weight/volume) of liposomes.
  • the conditioning composition was formulated by adding 2.0 ml of musk oil (fragrance) to 1 litre of liposome suspension. A few drops of green food colouring were also added.
  • HC4 Conditioner containincr 0.2% methyl paraben; 0.2% Carbamer 981
  • Methyl paraben (2g) was dissolved in boiling water (200 ml) with stirring. After cooling to 65°C, carbamer 981 (2g) was slowly added to the vigorously stirring solution. The resulting gelatinous suspension was cooled to 45°C and added to the liposome suspension (800 ml) . The pH was adjusted to 6 by dropwise addition of diisopropylethylamine (DPIEA) .
  • DPEA diisopropylethylamine
  • HC5 Conditioner containing 0.2% methyl paraben; 0.05% ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) Methyl paraben (2g) and EDTA (0.5g) were dissolved in boiling water (200 ml) with stirring. The solution was allowed to cool to 45°C before it was added to the liposome suspension (800 ml) .
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • HC6 Conditioner containing 0.2% methyl paraben; 0.05% EDTA; 0.2% carbamer 981 Methyl paraben (2g) and EDTA (0.5g) were dissolved in boiling water (200 ml) with stirring. After cooling to 65°C, carbamer 981 (2g) was slowly added to the vigorously stirring solution. The resulting gelatinous suspension was cooled to 45°C and added to the liposome suspension (800 ml) . The pH was adjusted to 6 by dropwise addition of diisopropylethylamine (DIPEA) .
  • DIPEA diisopropylethylamine
  • HCC Composition without liposomes
  • Control The same conditions as for HC-4 were used, with the omission of the liposome suspension, which was replaced by an equivalent volume of water. Fragrance and colouring were still added to the control.
  • HC4 and HC6 were liquids of high viscosity and of similar consistency to commercially available shampoos.
  • HC5 was a liquid of medium viscosity and of similar consistency to commercially available lotions. All three formulations had a homogeneous macroscopic appearance.
  • mice Microscopic Analysis: The microstructures of HC4, HC5 and HC6 were analysed using light microscopy in order to assess the structural integrity of the liposomes.
  • HC4 and HC6 contained a high density of very small liposomes.
  • the liquids were homogeneous in structure with no apparent coagulation of the liposomes.
  • HC5 contained a high density of liposomes of uniform size; the spatial distribution was uneven, with liposomes grouping into colonies.
  • Samples of human hair were secured by being embedded in epoxy resin according to the following procedure. All the hair used for testing was taken from the same head and was thick, heterogeneous with respect to colour and possessed a definite curl. A bundle of hair, approximately 7 cm long, was cut and an elastic band wrapped tightly round one end. The bound end was placed in the centre of a rubber mould and the mould filled with quick drying epoxy resin. The resin was allowed to set, the mould removed leaving the hair embedded in the resin in the form of a 'shaving brush 1 .
  • “Tangling” of the hair refers to a curled deformation of the end of the hair, usually preceding splitting and/or snapping.
  • Reference to ⁇ C4', 'HC5' , 'HC6' and 'HCC refers herein to brushes treated with conditioning compositions HC4, HC5, HC6 and HCC respectively.
  • HC5 Not as easy to comb as HC4; one or two split ends. Hair still in reasonably good condition, however.
  • HC6 Quite hard to comb as hair had become 'frizzy'. Hair still possessed some shine although did not appear in particularly good condition.
  • HCC Hardest to comb as hair was very damaged. Hair felt dry and had very dull appearance.
  • Figures 1 and 2 show hair samples after 4000 combs treated with HC4 (Fig. 1) and HCC (Fig. 2) .
  • the condition of the hair in Fig. 1 is markedly improved over and generally smarter than that in Figure 2.
  • the hair was washed with shampoo, rinsed and lightly towel dried. About 5 ml of conditioner HC4 was applied manually to the hair, left for 5 minutes and the hair rinsed. The condition and appearance of the hair was markedly improved.
  • samples HC4, HC5, HC6 and HCC are readily able to be washed off from skin surfaces in cold running tap water, indicating that they are noticeably hydrophilic. This contrasts with liposome-containing skin preparations. If these are applied to the hands and the hands are then subjected to cold running tap water, the hands remain greasy to the touch indicating that these preparations are not washed off. Such preparations are clearly relatively hydrophobic.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de conditionnement des cheveux qui consiste à leur appliquer des vésicules lipidiques. On décrit également des compositions de conditionnement des cheveux comprenant des suspensions de vésicules lipidiques destinées à être utilisées dans un tel procédé.
PCT/GB1992/001767 1991-09-27 1992-09-25 Composition de traitement capillaire Ceased WO1993006813A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9120646.6 1991-09-27
GB919120646A GB9120646D0 (en) 1991-09-27 1991-09-27 Hair treatment composition

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1993006813A2 true WO1993006813A2 (fr) 1993-04-15
WO1993006813A3 WO1993006813A3 (fr) 1993-07-22

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB1992/001767 Ceased WO1993006813A2 (fr) 1991-09-27 1992-09-25 Composition de traitement capillaire

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AU (1) AU2595692A (fr)
GB (1) GB9120646D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO1993006813A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3089814A1 (fr) * 2018-12-18 2020-06-19 L'oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques comprenant l’application d’un agent de couplage et d’un phospholipide, composition et utilisation

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB9208339D0 (en) * 1992-04-15 1992-06-03 Unilever Plc Treatment composition

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2623716B1 (fr) * 1987-11-27 1991-04-05 Lvmh Rech Composition a base de phases lamellaires lipidiques hydratees ou de liposomes contenant de la tyrosine ou un derive de tyrosine et composition cosmetique ou pharmaceutique, notamment dermatologique, a activite pigmentante, l'incorporant
FR2655540B1 (fr) * 1989-12-13 1994-02-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique pour le soin des cheveux et utilisation de ladite composition.

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3089814A1 (fr) * 2018-12-18 2020-06-19 L'oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques comprenant l’application d’un agent de couplage et d’un phospholipide, composition et utilisation

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Publication number Publication date
WO1993006813A3 (fr) 1993-07-22
GB9120646D0 (en) 1991-11-06
AU2595692A (en) 1993-05-03

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