WO2002000981A1 - Procede de fabrication d'articles de tricot pourvus de logements servant a introduire, mettre en forme et relier des moyens destines au support et a la mise en forme anatomiques et produits obtenus au moyen de ce procede - Google Patents

Procede de fabrication d'articles de tricot pourvus de logements servant a introduire, mettre en forme et relier des moyens destines au support et a la mise en forme anatomiques et produits obtenus au moyen de ce procede Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2002000981A1
WO2002000981A1 PCT/IT2001/000335 IT0100335W WO0200981A1 WO 2002000981 A1 WO2002000981 A1 WO 2002000981A1 IT 0100335 W IT0100335 W IT 0100335W WO 0200981 A1 WO0200981 A1 WO 0200981A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
needles
knitted
shaping
fabric
producing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/IT2001/000335
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English (en)
Inventor
Franco Sciacca
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AU2001271001A priority Critical patent/AU2001271001A1/en
Priority to EP01949891A priority patent/EP1409780A1/fr
Publication of WO2002000981A1 publication Critical patent/WO2002000981A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/024—Fabric incorporating additional compounds
    • D10B2403/0241—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties

Definitions

  • a recent patent relates to a knitwear bra provided with a support wire which is then introduced into a plurality of additional non-continuous stitches, following a suitable profile.
  • Said solution shows various technical and functional difficulties with unsatisfying results, since the aforesaid wire is introduced into a series of openings or knitted structures placed on the reverse or ba ' ck side of the ersey fabric, substantially open and resulting in the following disadvantages : - said wire is clearly visible;
  • a main aim of the present invention consists in providing a method for producing tubular items, also shaped or fitted, which allows to automatically obtain semi-finished or finished tubular knitwear items, provided with passages and housings for introducing and housing means for anatomic support and shaping.
  • Another main aim consists in providing a method for producing tubular items automatically provided with improved anatomic support.
  • Another main aim consists in providing a method for producing tubular items which allow to introduce and keep additional elements for anatomic support and shaping, such as the usual wires placed at the base of bras, without laborious and expensive additional finishing operations concerning cutting and sewing.
  • Another main aim consists in providing a method for producing tubular items provided with housings for additional elements for anatomic support and shaping without producing fabric scraps which affect production costs. Further aims will be evident from the description, examples and accompanying drawings, per se or in combination, beyond the final claims. Disclosure of the invention The above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method for producing knitwear items provided with housings for introducing, shaping and connecting means for anatomic support and shaping, and products obtained thereby, according to the appended claims. The characteristics of the invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be more evident from the following description of embodiments provided by way of example, which can be advantageously applied to the majority of circular knitting machines . Brief Description of the Drawings
  • FIG. 2 is another diagram for the sequences to be followed in the production of knit frills Bi;
  • FIG. 3 is a front view of a fabric having frills Bi made only with odd needles AD, with even needles AP not operating;
  • FIG. 3a shows a needle A, usually housed within a bed or cylinder, on whose stem the underlying fabric and the inner frill Bi are still engaged;
  • FIG. 4 shows a missing stitch W and a single "bridle" BR of the needle A2 within a knitted structure
  • figure 5 is a technical key for the patterns of figures 1 and 2;
  • - figure 6 is a perspective view of needles Al, A2, A3 starting the sequences for the production of knit frills Bi, by weaving a single "bridle”;
  • - figure 7 is a front view of a jersey fabric MJ having a closed frill Bi, produced with jersey fabric with alternated needles MJAA;
  • figure 7A is a lateral sectioned view of figure 7;
  • figure 8 shows a wire Y adapted to be inserted in the frill Bi of figure 7;
  • figure 8A is a sectioned lateral view of the wire of figure 8;
  • - figure 9 shows a sectioned view of the wire Y completely covered with the rim sheath L; - figure 10 shows the rim sheath L of figure 9 joined to the frill Bi placed within the knitted tube TM.
  • FIG. 11 shows a brassiere or breast band 1 produced according to the prior art
  • FIG. 12 schematically show a knitted item with fabric areas A,B,C,F1,F2;
  • figure 13 shows the knitted item of figure 12 structurally shaped with interventions on the fabric areas A,B,C,F1,F2;
  • FIG. 14 schematically show a knitted item in which the partial or integral two-layer ring-shaped welts 2 and 3 house the wires Y;
  • - figures 14A and 14B are respectively front ' and sectioned views of the double welt 2 of figure 14 housing the wire Y;
  • FIG. 14C and 14D are respectively front and sectioned views of the double welt 3 of figure 14 housing the wire Y;
  • - figure 15 schematically show a knitted item with small knitted tubes Bil,Bi2, similar to frills Bi, produced for about 180° and housing the wires Y;
  • - figure 16 shows a manufactured items 1 in which the functions of local support of the wires Y are implemented by suitable knitted structures directed towards the shoulder straps SD-SS;
  • FIG 17 is a front view of a variant of the fabric in figure 7 with a wire Y housed within the frill Bi and a dimensionally very stable fabric zone JDS;
  • figure 17A is a lateral sectioned view of figure 17;
  • - figure 18 is a lateral view of the item of figure 16.
  • a circular knitting machine for producing knitted items comprising at least: a needle bed or rotary cylinder versus fixed cams or vice versa; a complete working feed, provided with one or more yarn feeders, also moving feeders; preferably electronic needle selection for controlling the elements involved in the knitting process according to a work cycle and/or a jacquard design; stitch cams which can also be individually adjusted by means of motors and computer; • a device for opening needle latches upon actuation; a fabric suction or pulling system.
  • the machine is also equipped with a suitable dial with selectable needles or jacks, beyond the usual pneumatic yarn suction and cutting device.
  • a suitable dial with selectable needles or jacks beyond the usual pneumatic yarn suction and cutting device.
  • most of the description relates to a "full electronic" single-cylinder .circular machine such as for instance Santoni SM8-8.
  • the invention is carried out by preparing a work cycle and jacquard design, i.e. direct inputs to needles or jacks or other elements directly or indirectly involved in the knitting process, by means of a graphics workstation or other control and memory devices, i.e. other known means suitable to said purpose, considering at least partly the teachings contained in the Italian patent belonging to the writer no. 1255008, partially shown in figs. 1-2-3.
  • said patent relates to the production of knitwear items characterised by fabric areas with differentiated growth due to the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternated with respect to the adjacent ones, for instance 1:1., or 2:1-2:2 and the like.
  • a great part of inputs or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part of the latter, following a given pattern or program according to the original design.
  • Figures 1-6 show technical and graphic patterns belonging to knitting technologies related to the particular arrangement of the needles in the production of the three-dimensional knitted frill Bi . Therefore, the invention is carried out by means of a jersey fabric produced with only part of the needles which are present in the concerned areas or zones. For instance only even needles AP will be excluded, or alternated pairs of needles, i.e. three-needle operating groups followed by one or more excluded needles, and so on.
  • FIG. 7 shows in a front view a schematic embodiment of the invention: the standard jersey fabric MJN, seen from the reverse side, shows in the middle a zone of darker three- dimensional fabric shaped as a half-ring, indicated with MJAA, produced with a reduced number of needles, variously alternated.
  • This is the inner frill generally indicated with Bi in the various figures, whose function is to contain the above-lying wire Y or another similar element for the anatomic support or shaping.
  • the introduction of said wire Y is simplified both by the intrinsic elasticity of the fabric and by the possibility to plan an opening of variable size, related to the number of needles engaged to this purpose, figs. 2-6.
  • we advise to refer to the writer' s patent no. CO-2000-A000012 which is here recalled also in relation to the present description.
  • Fig. 7A shows a sectioned view of the same elements as in figure 7; so the three-dimensional profile of the frill Bi can be seen within the knitted tube TM.
  • the structural stiffening of the fabric zone JDS, fig. 17, around the inner frill Bi (containing the wire Y) in order to co-ordinate the local functions of anatomic support of the wire Y with the general support functions of the possible shoulder straps of the bra, swimsuit, teddy, dress, brassiere and the like.
  • the support and lifting functions of the wire Y are further increased by the adjacent fabric JDS which actively contributes along arrows F1-F2, towards the shoulder straps.
  • the fabric zone indicated with JDS consists of one or more knitted courses of dimensionally more stable or non-run jersey fabric, i.e. characterised by the simultaneous presence of normal or elongated stitches, laid-in stitches and welts, these terms being known to people skilled in the art, beyond the possible use of thermosetting or thermo-retractile yarns, or other yarns suitable to this purpose. Or, and preferably, by a plurality of frills Bi suitably placed. Therefore, knitted structures of the described type with variable thicknesses electronically controlled via computer by the corresponding motorised cams (not shown) , together with the possible use of other yarns, for instance thermo-adhesive yarns, i.e. gradually melting and weaving with the adjacent loops or stitches during the following hot fixing stage.
  • figure 17A shows a lateral view of the previous figure with the wire Y introduced into the inner frill Bi within the knitted tube TM.
  • the present invention is further developed in the embodiment shown in figures 9, 10, 10A, 10B.
  • said wire Y can be provided with one or more holes, suitably placed, helping the following fastening to the fabric by means of a sewing operation.
  • a wire Y which is wrapped up in its turn within a sheath L, preferably made of textile material, figs. 9,10,10A,10B.
  • the presence of the sheath L is advantageous to fasten, connect or join, preferably by sewing, said sheath with the aforesaid inner frill Bi.
  • the sheath L is therefore sewn onto the frill Bi placed within the knitted tube TM, on the arrow F.
  • the frill Bi modifies its original function of shaping element and takes on a base or support function.
  • the additional embodiments shown in figures 10A and 10B is characterised in that the sheath L, provided in this case with an edge or rim, is fastened or sewn to the knitted tube (on the inside or outside) according to the fabric design or profile.
  • FIG. 16 shows in further detail the manufactured item 1 whose wires Y are introduced into the corresponding frills Bi and whose ends are directed upwards in the direction of arrows F7.
  • the functions of anatomic support of the wires Y are repeated and increased by suitable knitted structures placed on the shoulder straps SD-SS.
  • Fig. 18 shows a lateral view of a manufactured item 1, which is also provided with shoulder straps SD-SS operating with the wire Y introduced into the frill Bi, or fastened to the fabric in other ways according to the invention.
  • Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to the presence of the wires Y introduced into or fastened to a manufactured item having the same general features as the brassiere 1, shown in fig. 11 as an example from the prior art .
  • the fabric between the aforesaid welts 2 and 3 generally consists of jersey MJ whose intrinsic elasticity is a huge disadvantage in the possible function of breast support.
  • Said areas are therefore produced with laid-in floating yarns FFT or intermeshed floating yarns FFI; or with non- run knitted structures IND; with tuck stitches PT, with alternated-needle fabric MAA, and eventually with the described technique using the frills Bi .
  • the two-layer welts indicated with 2 and 3 in fig. 12 are usually produced with the additional jacks or needles of the dial (not shown) , a term which is known to people skilled in the art, or only with the cylinder needles.
  • the ring-shaped welts 2 and 3 are replaced by an initial (and/or final) small knitted tube, produced only with the cylinder needles, then a fixed selection of alternated needles Bi, 2 and 3 (fig. 14, 14A, 14B, 14C, 14D) .
  • the invention also claims partial welts and/or small knitted tubes, preferably for about 180° corresponding to the front part of the manufactured item.
  • Fig. 15 shows a schematic view of the manufactured item 1, characterised by structures of three-dimensional fabric Bi and by the presence of the wires Y which should shape and fit the breast profile in an evident way.
  • Bil and Bi2 indicate said partial small knitted tubes on the front part of the manufactured item 1, produced according to the invention, figs. 1-2-3-6.
  • the details of execution can equally vary as far as shape, dimensions and/or arrangement are concerned, and also in the nature of the technical and/or textile materials used, though always falling within the framework of aims of the present patent .

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des articles de tricot tubulaires (1), tels que des brassières, des soutien-gorges, des combinaison-culottes, des robes et des articles techniques (1), pourvus de logements ou de petits tubes tricotés (Bi) appropriés, obtenus de manière automatique et destinés à l'introduction et au maintien d'éléments supplémentaires, tels que des fils (Y) et analogues, dont les fonctions consistent en une mise en forme et un support anatomiques, ou destinés à des connexions esthétiques et fonctionnelles, ainsi qu'à des tissages. Le procédé selon l'invention consiste à coordonner la sélection appropriée d'aiguilles (A) en fonction du dessin jacquard et du cycle de travail de la machine à tricoter, entraînant ainsi, pour des zones de l'étoffe et des aiguilles (A) déterminées, l'arrêt partiel et temporaire du processus de tricotage des groupes d'aiguilles (A) alternées de manière variable avec d'autres aiguilles encore engagées dans le processus de tricotage.
PCT/IT2001/000335 2000-06-27 2001-06-26 Procede de fabrication d'articles de tricot pourvus de logements servant a introduire, mettre en forme et relier des moyens destines au support et a la mise en forme anatomiques et produits obtenus au moyen de ce procede Ceased WO2002000981A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2001271001A AU2001271001A1 (en) 2000-06-27 2001-06-26 Method for producing knitwear items provided with housings for introducing, shaping and connecting means for anatomic support and shaping, and products obtainedthereby
EP01949891A EP1409780A1 (fr) 2000-06-27 2001-06-26 Procede de fabrication d'articles de tricot pourvus de logements servant a introduire, mettre en forme et relier des moyens destines au support et a la mise en forme anatomiques et produits obtenus au moyen de ce procede

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITCO2000A000017 2000-06-27
IT2000CO000017A ITCO20000017A1 (it) 2000-06-27 2000-06-27 Metodo e attrezzatura per la produzione di articoli a maglia forniti di alloggiamenti per l'inserimento il contenimento ed il collegamento d

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2002000981A1 true WO2002000981A1 (fr) 2002-01-03

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IT2001/000335 Ceased WO2002000981A1 (fr) 2000-06-27 2001-06-26 Procede de fabrication d'articles de tricot pourvus de logements servant a introduire, mettre en forme et relier des moyens destines au support et a la mise en forme anatomiques et produits obtenus au moyen de ce procede

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1409780A1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2001271001A1 (fr)
IT (1) ITCO20000017A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2002000981A1 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4514995A (en) * 1983-07-08 1985-05-07 Curtis James J Knit cover for beverage container
EP0309391A2 (fr) * 1987-09-21 1989-03-29 Peter Dr. Kopa Tricot
US5669247A (en) * 1996-08-28 1997-09-23 Guilford Mills, Inc. Underwire brassiere, warp knitted textile fabric for use in fabricating same, and method of warp knitting such fabric
EP0887450A2 (fr) * 1997-06-25 1998-12-30 Santoni S.p.A. Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant un passage pour l'insertion d'éléments de support, et article obtenu selon ce procédé

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4514995A (en) * 1983-07-08 1985-05-07 Curtis James J Knit cover for beverage container
EP0309391A2 (fr) * 1987-09-21 1989-03-29 Peter Dr. Kopa Tricot
US5669247A (en) * 1996-08-28 1997-09-23 Guilford Mills, Inc. Underwire brassiere, warp knitted textile fabric for use in fabricating same, and method of warp knitting such fabric
EP0887450A2 (fr) * 1997-06-25 1998-12-30 Santoni S.p.A. Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant un passage pour l'insertion d'éléments de support, et article obtenu selon ce procédé

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1409780A1 (fr) 2004-04-21
ITCO20000017A0 (it) 2000-06-27
ITCO20000017A1 (it) 2001-12-27
AU2001271001A1 (en) 2002-01-08

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