WO2002043678A2 - Fixation enzymatique de glucides derives sur des materiaux fibreux - Google Patents

Fixation enzymatique de glucides derives sur des materiaux fibreux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2002043678A2
WO2002043678A2 PCT/EP2001/013967 EP0113967W WO0243678A2 WO 2002043678 A2 WO2002043678 A2 WO 2002043678A2 EP 0113967 W EP0113967 W EP 0113967W WO 0243678 A2 WO0243678 A2 WO 0243678A2
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Prior art keywords
group
component
acid
arylene
hair
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2002043678A3 (fr
Inventor
Peter Busch
Ursula Huchel
Thomas Otto Gassenmeier
Andrea SÄTTLER
Astrid Kleen
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Priority to AU2002217072A priority Critical patent/AU2002217072A1/en
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Publication of WO2002043678A3 publication Critical patent/WO2002043678A3/fr
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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
    • C07H5/00—Compounds containing saccharide radicals in which the hetero bonds to oxygen have been replaced by the same number of hetero bonds to halogen, nitrogen, sulfur, selenium, or tellurium
    • C07H5/04—Compounds containing saccharide radicals in which the hetero bonds to oxygen have been replaced by the same number of hetero bonds to halogen, nitrogen, sulfur, selenium, or tellurium to nitrogen
    • C07H5/06—Aminosugars
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for the enzymatic fixation of. derivatized carbohydrates on fibrous, in particular keratinous materials, such as hair or wool, a multicomponent system comprising at least one carbohydrate derivative and an enzyme, and its use for influencing the properties of fibrous materials, in particular the properties of hair such as volume, shine, hold, fullness, tactility , Electrostatics and resistance to heat, UV and IR radiation.
  • the cleaning and care of the hair is an important part of human body care. Both cleaning the hair with shampoos and decorating the hairstyle, for example by dyeing or perming, are interventions that influence the natural structure and properties of the hair. After such a treatment, for example, the wet and dry combability, hold, fullness, shine and tactility of the hair can be unsatisfactory. In addition, the hair is damaged by environmental influences such as UV, IR radiation and heat, e.g. B. by blow drying the hair.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • combability, hold, fullness, shine and feel of the hair are improved.
  • polyaminoglucoses as in EP-A-0412745 and US-A-5,523,078, of cellulose as in JP-A-04124121 and EP-A-0823252 and alkyl cellulose in WO-A-97/38673 , US-A-5,534,247 and WO-A-94/06410.
  • US-A-3,619,114 teaches the permanent modification of keratinous substrates by copolymerization with vinyl monomers in the presence of free radical catalysts and subsequent treatment with aqueous ammoniacal copper hydroxide solutions. Due to the toxicity of the compounds used, the application is limited to inanimate keratin fibers.
  • US-A-2, 615,782 teaches the modification of keratinous fibers by forming disulfide bridges between hair and active substance.
  • Another method for fixing compounds which serve to permanently shape hair and which is particularly aimed at permanent wave processes is the use of so-called colored salt derivatives, as described in DE-A-3735086, DE-A-4109869 and EP-A- 0246151.
  • US-A-3,415,606 teaches the use of reactive dyes which have a long-term effect on the hair.
  • the object is achieved according to the invention by a method in which a fibrous, keratinous material is treated with at least one carbohydrate derivative and an enzyme.
  • the invention relates to a method for the enzymatic fixation of derivatized carbohydrates on fibrous, keratinous materials by their treatment with
  • Z is a carbohydrate residue
  • Y is an amino, thioether, amide, ester or ether group, the group R
  • arylene, -CC 4 alkylene-arylene or C 2 -C 6 -alkenylene-arylene group with 5 to 12 carbon atoms in the arylene radical which may optionally be substituted with -C ⁇ C 6 -alkyl and / or C 2 -C 6 alkoxy groups, or
  • component B In combination with an enzyme (component B), for which component A has substrate activity.
  • carbohydrate derivatives are enzymatically bound to functional groups of the keratin fibers when they are used, and that this chemical linkage means that the active ingredient remains on the fiber even after washing or under mechanical stresses and has a long-lasting, preferably permanent effect there.
  • This concept can be used with numerous fibrous materials, but preferably with natural and synthetic fibers such as textiles, fleeces (non-wovens), leather, fur and particularly preferred for keratin fibers such as wool and hair.
  • the carbohydrate residue Z in formula (I) can be cyclic or open-chain and has an average molecular weight of up to 1000, preferably up to 400.
  • a carbohydrate residue is a residue which results from a carbohydrate in that either a hydroxyl group of the carbohydrate is removed, or an amino group of the carbohydrate is removed, if the carbohydrate contains one.
  • Preferred carbohydrates from which the carbohydrate residues Z are derived, are selected from the group consisting of aldohexoses, aldopentoses, aldofuranoses, aldopyranoses, glycosamines of aldopyranoses, dimeric reducing aldopyranoses and the glycosamines, dimeric reducing aldofuranoses formed therefrom and the glycerol carbons formed therefrom, and the resulting glycosene carbons , Glycuronic acids, aldonic acids or the lactones formed therefrom.
  • Carbohydrates which are selected from the group consisting of allose, old rose, galactose, glucose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose, glucosamine, galactosamine, mannosamine, maltose, cellobiose, gentiobiose, lactose, lactosamine, melezitose are particularly suitable in the context of the invention , Panose, erythrose, threose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and gluconic acid- ⁇ -lactone, D-erythronic acid- ⁇ -lactone, D-ribonic acid ⁇ -lactone, D-xylonic acid ⁇ -lactone, D -Gulonic acid- ⁇ -lactone, L-gulonic acid- ⁇ -lactone, L-mannonic acid- ⁇ -lactone, ⁇ , D-glucoheptanoic acid- ⁇ -lactone and
  • the pyranoses can be derivatized to form the Z-Y-R bonds by methods known in the art at positions 1 (anomeric center) and / or 6, and those of furanoses at positions 1 or 5.
  • Exemplary Aminothiols such as 2-aminoethanethiol, 1-amino-2-methyl-2-propanethiol, cysteine methyl ester, cysteine ethyl ester, thiocytosine, 2-aminothiophenol, 4-aminothiophenol, 2-amino-5-mercapto-1, 3,4 thiadiazole, 3- Amino-5-mercapto-1, 2,4 triazole, dithiols such as 1,2-ethanedithiol, 1,3-propanedithiol, 1,4-butanedithiol, 2,3-butanedithiol, 1,5-pentanedithiol, 1,6-hexanedithiol , 1,8-octanedithiol, 2-mercaptoethyl sulfide, 1,2-benzendimethanethiol, 1,3-benzendimethanethiol, 1,4-benzendimethanethiol, dimer
  • the group R can be a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 12, preferably 2 to 8, particularly preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred alkylene groups are the methylene, ethylene, propylene, iso-propylene, n-butylene, iso-butylene, pentylene, hexylene and cyclohexylene group.
  • the group R represents an alkylene group substituted with an ester group, such as, for example, methoxycarbonyl-ethyl, ethoxycarbonyl-ethyl, n-propoxycarbonyl-ethyl, iso-propoxycarbonyl-ethyl, n-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl , iso-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl or t-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl group.
  • an ester group such as, for example, methoxycarbonyl-ethyl, ethoxycarbonyl-ethyl, n-propoxycarbonyl-ethyl, iso-propoxycarbonyl-ethyl, n-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl , iso-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl or t-butoxycarbonyl-ethyl group.
  • arylene, C 1 -C 4 -alkylene-arylene or C 2 -C 6 -alkenylene-arylene groups with 5 to 12, preferably 6 to 10, particularly preferably 6 carbon atoms in the arylene radical, which are optionally substituted, can be used for R can be with -CC 6 alkyl, and / or C 2 -C 6 alkoxy groups, such as in particular groups which are derived from the phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, phenylpropyl, phenylbutyl -, phenylvinyl-, cinnamyl-, phenylallyl-, methylphenyl-, ethylphenyl-, propylphenyl-, iso-propylphenyl-, butylphenyl-, iso-butylphenyl-, tert-butylphenyl-, methoxypheny
  • the radical R can be a heteroarylene, -CC 4 -alkylene-heteroarylene or C 2 -C 6 -alkenylene-heteroarylene group having 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 6, particularly preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms in the Heteroarylene residue and one or two hetero atom (s) be selected from N, O and S, which may additionally be substituted with C ⁇ -C 6 alkyl and / or C 2 -C 6 alkoxy groups.
  • Suitable heteroaryl groups are derived in particular from the pyridyl, pyrimidyl, pyridazyl, pyrazyol, furanyl, thiophenyl, oxazolyl, isooxazolyl, thioazolyl, quinolinyl, isoquinolinyl, phthalazinyl, quinazolinyl, pyridyl Pyridylethyl-, pyridylpropyl-, pyridylbutyl-, pyrimidylmethyl-, pyrimidylethyl-, pyrimidylpropyl- pyrimidylbutyl-, pyridazylmethyl-, pyridazylethyl-, pyridazylpropyl-, pyridazylbutyl- pyrazylmethyl- pyrazylpyl-, pyrazylpyl-,
  • Enzymes preferably protein disulfide isomerase (PDI), for which component A of the method has substrate activity and which can preferably bring about a linkage of the carbohydrate derivatives with functional groups of the fibrous, keratinic materials act as component B in the process according to the invention.
  • U (unit) is the amount of enzyme that 1 unit of unfolded ribonuclease can fold (reactivate) within one minute at pH 7.5 and 30 ° C.
  • 0.1 to 2000, preferably 500 to 1500, units of enzyme (e.g. PDI) can be used.
  • PDI rearranges intra- and intermolecular disulfide bridges in proteins.
  • Protein disulfide isomerase belongs to the main group of isomerases and has the EC number 5.3.4.1 (The classification of enzymes is recommended by the "Nomenclature Committee of the International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology" (IUBMB) and classifies all enzymes for which an EC (IUBMB Enzyme Committee) number is assigned.
  • IUBMB International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
  • the method according to the invention can be carried out in different variants. In principle, it is possible to apply component A with substrate activity and the enzyme as component B to the fibrous material in succession in any order. In a preferred embodiment, component A and component B are applied to the fibrous material in this order. An application of the components in the order first B, then A is also according to the invention.
  • the mixture can in principle remain on the fibrous material, in a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention it is rinsed out after an exposure time of 3 to 120 minutes. This rinsing can be done with pure water. Exposure times of 15 to 30 minutes have proven to be sufficient in most cases.
  • the enzyme it has proven to be advantageous to use the enzyme at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C., in particular 35 to 50 ° C.
  • component A and component B are each used in the form of a preparation which, in addition to components A and B, comprises a carrier.
  • the preparations can contain all customary constituents which are suitable for the treatment of fibrous materials, in particular keratin fibers, and particularly preferably human hair.
  • suitable Preparations are solid, liquid, gel-like or pasty and preferably consist of aqueous systems.
  • the preparations which can be used according to the invention can be formulated as a solution, lotion, emulsion, microemulsion, cream or gel.
  • the preparation is particularly preferably a hair treatment agent.
  • the preparations used according to the invention include all known types of hair treatment agents, such as Hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair fixers, hair sprays, blow-dry waves, permanent waving agents and hair colorants.
  • Hair treatments and hair conditioning agents in particular those agents which are applied to the hair in the morning in order to give it a certain degree of firmness for the rest of the day, and hair shampoos are preferred forms of the agents according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such compositions.
  • the preparations contain at least one surfactant, and in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases it has proven to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester or ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be included.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps )
  • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16, acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 C- Atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, methyl alpha
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 -carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group.
  • Such connections are, for example
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z ') x . These connections are characterized by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only a certain alkyl radical R '. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R 'are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of Cs and Cio alkyl groups, essentially from C 2 and Cu alkyl groups, essentially from Cs-Ci ⁇ alkyl groups or essentially from C 2 -C 6 -alkyl groups ,
  • Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z ' .
  • Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used.
  • sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are very particularly preferred.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • the person skilled in the art will preferably resort to this substance class as a further ingredient of the preparations according to the invention.
  • alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as co-surfactants. Such surfactants are used as zwitterionic surfactants. Designates bonds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (_) - or -SO 3 (_) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are also particularly suitable as co-surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-Cis-alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12-18 acyl sarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound, esterquat and amidoamine type.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distea- ryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® .
  • alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; di-quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quatemium-80).
  • An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ® 100, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • the surfactants in the preparations according to the invention are usually in amounts of 0.1 to 65% by weight, preferably in amounts of 2 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 8 to 20% by weight, based on the entire preparations.
  • Nonionic surfactants are preferably present in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight.
  • the preparations according to the invention can preferably also contain a conditioning active ingredient selected from the group consisting of cationic Surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines, paraffin oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils is formed.
  • a conditioning active ingredient selected from the group consisting of cationic Surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines, paraffin oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils is formed.
  • Cationic polymers can be preferred as conditioning agents. These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with acrylic acid and esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid The under the names Merquat ® 100
  • (Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylic acid copolymer commercially available are examples of such cationic polymers.
  • Such compounds are among the names Gafaf ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 are commercially available.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers such as those sold under the name Luviquat ®, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and under the designations Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain. Cationic polymers of the first four groups are particularly preferred; polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-10 and polyquaternium-22 are very particularly preferred.
  • zwitterionic or ampholytic polymers are particularly preferably used as conditioning agents.
  • Preferred representatives are octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.
  • conditioning agents are silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs.
  • silicones examples include the Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 1401 products sold and the commercial products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
  • Paraffin oils synthetically produced oligomeric alkenes and vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil can also be used as conditioning agents.
  • hair-conditioning compounds are phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins.
  • non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
  • Anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl tert-acrylate.
  • butyl acrylamide terpolymers such as polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl tert-acrylate.
  • butyl acrylamide terpolymers such as polyacrylic acids,
  • - Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextran, cellulose derivatives, eg. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocoloids such as polyvinyl alcohol
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example
  • Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline
  • Protein hydrolyzates especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein,
  • Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol,
  • Oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose,
  • Quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl 2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
  • Defoamers such as silicones, dyes for coloring the agent,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, Substances for adjusting the pH, such as, for example, customary acids, in particular edible acids and bases,
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol,
  • Vitamins in particular those of groups A, B 3 , B 5
  • Extracts such as the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, hake, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • - consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, fatty acid alkanolamides,
  • the preparations according to the invention can also be agents for textile or leather treatment in the form of detergents, fabric softeners and finishes.
  • component A is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the Total amount of preparation, before.
  • the enzyme component B is used in the unit amount specified above.
  • a permanent influence on the properties of the treated fibrous material, in particular human hair can be achieved by the method according to the invention, in particular an improvement of wet and dry combability, hold, moisture, strength, fullness, shine, tactility and electrostatic properties as well as resistance to UV and IR radiation and exposure to heat.
  • the invention is particularly suitable for increasing the hair volume and for improving the hair structure.
  • the structure-improving effect of the method according to the invention on the hair keratin can be determined quantitatively by tear measurements.
  • components A and B each optionally in the form of preparations which contain further constituents as described above, for example in mixed, dissolved, dispersed or emulsified form, are provided separately from one another in a kit of parts ,
  • the invention thus furthermore relates to a kit for use in the process according to the invention for the treatment of fibrous materials, in particular human hair, which consists of the following separately packaged components: - A component A with substrate activity, as described above, preferably in the form of a preparation which additionally comprises a carrier
  • an enzyme B as described above, preferably in the form of a preparation which additionally comprises a carrier.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a kit according to the invention in a method for treating fibrous materials, in particular human hair.
  • the invention further relates to the use of (a) at least one enzyme of the protein disulfide isomerase type and (B) at least one substance which has a substrate activity for the enzyme for the treatment of fibrous materials.
  • the fibrous materials are preferably keratin fibers and particularly preferably human hair.
  • the treatment serves for restructuring, strengthening or increasing the volume of keratin fibers.
  • nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkyl polyglycosides (APG).
  • preparations A and B After the mixing of preparations A and B, the mixture was applied directly to the cold-waved hair and washed out after a contact time of 20 minutes and rinsed thoroughly. The properties of the hair were examined before and after application and compared with one another.
  • the hair strands were examined after conditioning under standardized, air-conditioned conditions by an expert panel with regard to sensory properties against hair treated with water ("sensory assessment"). A noticeable improvement in grip, gloss and combability was found on the hair treated by the process according to the invention.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de fixation enzymatique de glucides dérivés sur des matériaux fibreux, en particulier des matériaux kératiniques tels que des cheveux ou de la laine. L'invention concerne également un système à plusieurs composants comportant au moins un dérivé glucidique et une enzyme, ainsi que l'utilisation dudit système pour modifier des caractéristiques de matériaux fibreux, en particulier des caractéristiques des cheveux telles que volume, éclat, tenue, densité, toucher, électrostaticité, et résistance contre la chaleur et les rayonnements ultraviolet et infrarouge.
PCT/EP2001/013967 2000-12-01 2001-11-29 Fixation enzymatique de glucides derives sur des materiaux fibreux Ceased WO2002043678A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2002217072A AU2002217072A1 (en) 2000-12-01 2001-11-29 Enzymatic fixation of derivatised carbohydrates to fibrous materials

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10059748.3 2000-12-01
DE2000159748 DE10059748A1 (de) 2000-12-01 2000-12-01 Enzymatische Fixierung von derivatisierten Kohlenhydraten an fasrigen Materialien

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WO2002043678A2 true WO2002043678A2 (fr) 2002-06-06
WO2002043678A3 WO2002043678A3 (fr) 2003-04-17

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DE (1) DE10059748A1 (fr)
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003099243A1 (fr) * 2002-05-29 2003-12-04 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Agents cosmetiques comprenant une disulfidisomerase proteinique
EP2175059A1 (fr) * 2008-10-07 2010-04-14 Fabryka Dywanow Agnella S.A. Fil de laine

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10237737A1 (de) * 2002-08-17 2004-02-26 Beiersdorf Ag Haarpflegeprodukt

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2141764A1 (de) * 1971-08-20 1973-03-01 Henkel & Cie Gmbh Mittel zur formveraenderung von skleroproteinen
DK76793D0 (fr) * 1993-06-28 1993-06-28 Novo Nordisk As
FR2769220B1 (fr) * 1997-10-03 2000-03-10 Oreal Composition oxydante et utilisations pour la teinture, pour la deformation permanente ou pour la decoloration des fibres keratiniques

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003099243A1 (fr) * 2002-05-29 2003-12-04 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Agents cosmetiques comprenant une disulfidisomerase proteinique
WO2003099242A1 (fr) * 2002-05-29 2003-12-04 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Agents cosmetiques comprenant une disulfidisomerase proteinique
EP2175059A1 (fr) * 2008-10-07 2010-04-14 Fabryka Dywanow Agnella S.A. Fil de laine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2002043678A3 (fr) 2003-04-17
AU2002217072A1 (en) 2002-06-11
DE10059748A1 (de) 2002-06-20

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