WO2003015767A2 - Utilisation de tectorigenine pour fabriquer des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques destinees a la prophylaxie et au traitement d'etats inflammatoires cutanes et / ou a la protection de la peau en cas de peau sensible et seche - Google Patents

Utilisation de tectorigenine pour fabriquer des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques destinees a la prophylaxie et au traitement d'etats inflammatoires cutanes et / ou a la protection de la peau en cas de peau sensible et seche Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003015767A2
WO2003015767A2 PCT/EP2002/008823 EP0208823W WO03015767A2 WO 2003015767 A2 WO2003015767 A2 WO 2003015767A2 EP 0208823 W EP0208823 W EP 0208823W WO 03015767 A2 WO03015767 A2 WO 03015767A2
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Prior art keywords
skin
polyethylene glycol
tectorigenin
cosmetic
ether
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2003015767A3 (fr
Inventor
Stefan Gallinat
Ludger Kolbe
Christoper Mummert
Claudia Mundt
Ursula Wensorra
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/352—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline 
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of the isoflavonoid tectorigenin (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-6-methoxyisoflavone) for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative Change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.
  • the invention further relates to the use of tectorigenin and preparations containing tectorigenin for immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immune stimulation in the sense of treating injured skin, in particular for treating wounds.
  • the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential”.
  • Sensitive skin affects an increasing number of adults and children. Sensitive skin is a combination of various symptoms, such as hyper-reactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be subsumed under it. These skin conditions are often not entirely correct by those affected , referred to as "allergic" skin. Although an allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin, the appearance of "sensitive skin” is not limited to allergy sufferers.
  • the skin especially the epidermis, as a barrier organ of the human organism, is particularly exposed to external influences.
  • According to today's knowledge competent peripheral compartment plays its own role in inductive, effective and regulative immune processes of the whole organism.
  • the epidermis is richly equipped with nerves and nerve end devices such as Father Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for sensation of pain, cold, heat and itching.
  • nerves and nerve end devices such as Father Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for sensation of pain, cold, heat and itching.
  • This "sensitive skin” differs fundamentally from “dry skin” with thickened and hardened horny skin.
  • Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are reddening, tension and burning of the skin as well as itching.
  • Cutting 'phenomena can be regarded as cosmetic disorders.
  • severe itching particularly severe itching in the case of atopy, can also be described as a more serious dermatological disorder.
  • Typical disturbing neurosensory phenomena associated with the terms "stinging” or “sensitive skin” are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tension and burning of the skin and itching.
  • PJFrosch and AMKligman describe a method for estimating the "stinging potential" of topically administered substances.
  • Lactic acid and pyruvic acid are used here as positive substances.
  • amino acids, especially glycine as neurosensory active (such substances are called “Stinger”).
  • Erythematous skin symptoms also occur as a side effect with certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash in the appearance of acne is regularly more or less red.
  • active ingredients and preparations containing such active ingredients should be made available for the cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging".
  • active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be made available which can be used for immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immune stimulation in the sense of the effect promoting wound healing.
  • tectorigenin for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • inflammatory skin conditions including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin.
  • Cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective tectorigenin content When using cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective tectorigenin content, an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - is possible. Cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective tectorigenin content also serve, surprisingly, to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.
  • Tectorigenin occurs in the above-ground parts of Desmodium ascendens and Dahligiga sissoo (both from the Fabaceae family).
  • Tectorigenin is advantageously used in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, with a content of 0.0005-50.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • tectorigenin together with isoflavones, in particular characterized in that one or more isoflavones are used together with tectorigenin, a content of the isoflavones or isoflavones of 0.02-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.02%. 5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously 0.5-3.0% by weight, correspondingly, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Isoflavones are a group of flavonoids, sometimes also called isoflavonoids, of mostly yellowish-colored plant dyes that are derived from isoflavone.
  • the unsubstituted body, the actual isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one) occurs in clover types.
  • isoflavones are Daidzeaidn (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), as 7-O-glucoside Daidzin in soy flour; Genistein (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy isoflavone) from soybeans and red clover; Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) from the bark of plum trees; Biochanin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4' ⁇ methoxy-isoflavone) from chickpeas, red clover and other types of clover; Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) made from sandalwood, redwood and other woods; Pratense ⁇ n (S'. ⁇ -Trihydroxy ⁇ -methoxyisoflavon) from fresh red or meadow clover. Some of these isoflavones found in clover
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'- 5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid
  • salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt
  • benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:
  • Advantageous UV filter substances / in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
  • R, R 2 and R 3 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom.
  • Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid- tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4 ) 6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 , -hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INC
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula
  • R represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • Ri represents a branched or unbranched a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more G, -C 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula means in which
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C r C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C r C 4 -
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C r C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C, -C 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched G, -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C r C 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched G, -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C, -C 4 -
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly advantageous UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon IRCl: dioctylbutamidotriazone
  • UVASORB HEB trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • R 1 , R 2 and A- represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCl : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • the UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethy) amino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy ⁇ 4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • a further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  • preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl -, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -Linoleyh cholesteryl and glyce
  • citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), fol - Acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate vitamin E acetate
  • coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin and its derivatives rutinic acid , Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, Esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
  • rutinic acid Ferulic acid and its derivatives
  • butylated hydroxytoluene butylated hydroxyani
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • the prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective tectorigenin content is carried out in the usual manner, namely in such a way that the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective tectorigenin content are applied to the affected skin areas becomes.
  • Tectorigenin can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms.
  • they can be a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in -Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are customary for such Type of formulation used.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic Formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic Formulation such as alcohols,
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (Ti0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 0 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO 2 are particularly preferred.
  • the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.
  • One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.
  • Advantageous TiO 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants generally become Type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule classified. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • B + any cation, eg Na +
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylgiutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate
  • acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • alkyl sulfonates for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-1 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous.
  • the cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzene zyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea- rylammoniumchlorid, also alkyltrialkylammonium, such as for example, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or - bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are
  • acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • alkanolamides such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycoside such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; benzoates;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyl palylate, Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R., - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
  • n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
  • Cyclomethicone e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.
  • silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.
  • ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl,
  • Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids.
  • hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.
  • Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.
  • Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.
  • derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
  • Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Vegegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorite.
  • silica gels can also advantageously be used.
  • the polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).
  • the polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • the nonionic emulsifiers include a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyeeryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) alkyl ethoxylated fatty amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, e.g. Triton X)
  • the anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates
  • the cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride
  • amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives
  • O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O -) n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O -) n -SO 3 -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15. 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).
  • cetyl alcohols cetylstearyl alcohols
  • cetearyl alcohols cetearyl alcohols
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).
  • fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group: Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
  • the sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
  • Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative.
  • Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol! (23) glycery! Laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprin
  • polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat.
  • sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoiso- stearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and /
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl Glycerylmonoisostea- advice, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoiso- stearate, propylene glycol triacrylate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylenglycolmonocap-, nocaprylat propylene glycol sorbitan, sorbitan Sorbitanmo-, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachi - Dyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

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Abstract

Utilisation de tectorigénine pour fabriquer des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques destinées au traitement, aux soins et à la prophylaxie des peaux sensibles et / ou au traitement et à la prophylaxie des symptômes correspondant à une modification négative de l'homéostasie physiologique de la peau saine.
PCT/EP2002/008823 2001-08-14 2002-08-07 Utilisation de tectorigenine pour fabriquer des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques destinees a la prophylaxie et au traitement d'etats inflammatoires cutanes et / ou a la protection de la peau en cas de peau sensible et seche Ceased WO2003015767A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10139792A DE10139792A1 (de) 2001-08-14 2001-08-14 Verwendung von Tectorigenin zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung von entzündlichen Hautzuständen und/oder zum Hautschutz bei empfindlich determinierter und trockener Haut
DE10139792.5 2001-08-14

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WO2003015767A2 true WO2003015767A2 (fr) 2003-02-27
WO2003015767A3 WO2003015767A3 (fr) 2003-04-17

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KR100635785B1 (ko) * 2000-03-20 2006-10-18 주식회사 코리아나화장품 텍토리게닌을 함유하는 화장료 조성물
FR2811562B1 (fr) * 2000-07-13 2003-03-07 Oreal Composition, notamment cosmetique, renfermant la dhea et un isoflavonoide
FR2815539B1 (fr) * 2000-10-23 2003-02-14 Silab Sa Principe actif riche en isoflavones, son procede d'extraction et ses applications cosmetiques
FR2815861B1 (fr) * 2000-10-26 2003-02-28 Oreal Utilisation de l'association d'au moins un carotenoide et d'au moins un isoflavonoide pour traiter les signes cutanes du vieillissement

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
ANSARI M A ET AL: "Larvicidal and repellent actions of Dalbergia sissoo Roxb. (F. Leguminosae) oil against mosquitoes." BIORESOURCE TECHNOLOGY, Bd. 73, Nr. 3, Juli 2000 (2000-07), Seiten 207-211, XP002228481 ISSN: 0960-8524 *
DATABASE WPI Section Ch, Week 200225 Derwent Publications Ltd., London, GB; Class D21, AN 2002-194007 XP002228482 & KR 2001 092 069 A (COREANA COSMETICS CO LTD), 24. Oktober 2001 (2001-10-24) *

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