WO2009098585A2 - Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué - Google Patents

Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009098585A2
WO2009098585A2 PCT/IB2009/000215 IB2009000215W WO2009098585A2 WO 2009098585 A2 WO2009098585 A2 WO 2009098585A2 IB 2009000215 W IB2009000215 W IB 2009000215W WO 2009098585 A2 WO2009098585 A2 WO 2009098585A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
thread
fibres
multicomponent
fibre
making
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/IB2009/000215
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2009098585A3 (fr
Inventor
Claudio Gherardi
Alberto Frignani
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Gti SpA - Gruppo Tessile Industriale
GHERTEX Srl
Original Assignee
Gti SpA - Gruppo Tessile Industriale
GHERTEX Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Gti SpA - Gruppo Tessile Industriale, GHERTEX Srl filed Critical Gti SpA - Gruppo Tessile Industriale
Publication of WO2009098585A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009098585A2/fr
Publication of WO2009098585A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009098585A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for making a multicomponent thread and to a multicomponent thread thus made.
  • the present finding relates to multicomponent threads for making items made of vicuna, cashmere, alpaca, silk, wool and fibres in general, natural, artificial, mineral and/or synthetic, either pure or mixed with each other, which due to the limited sizes thereof (i.e., they are very thin fibres that have a very high metric number, that is, ratio between thread length and weight) cannot be woven or during the weaving, tend to break up.
  • fabric both the fabric made with a shuttle machine and the fabric made with a knitting machine, either circular or rectilinear.
  • the present finding relates to multicomponent threads used to make one-ply yarns of natural (animal and/or vegetal) and/or synthetic and/or artificial and/or mineral fibres, either pure or mixed with each other.
  • the threads of the indicated type are made by first spinning a first thread of natural (animal or vegetal), artificial, mineral and/or synthetic fibre with an S or Z twist (figure 1).
  • this thread 1 is twisted with a second thread 2 in a soluble fibre in an environment wherein the first fibre is not soluble; the first and the second thread are twisted with a Z or S twist opposite that the first thread has been subject to during the spinning, making a multicomponent thread 3.
  • this multicomponent thread 3 is used for weaving a fabric which is immersed in an aqueous solution, or is carbonised, so that the second fibre dissolves.
  • the technical task of the present invention therefore is to provide a process for making a multicomponent thread and a multicomponent thread thus made which should allow eliminating the aforementioned technical drawbacks of the prior art from the fabric.
  • an object of the invention is to provide a multicomponent thread which should allow making fabrics highly resistant to friction and to pilling.
  • the process according to the invention may be used for making a multicomponent thread through a spinning cycle among the following ones:
  • the fabrics made by the multicomponent threads according to the present finding exhibit excellent brightness features and a different feel compared to traditional ones. Further features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly from the description of a preferred but non-exclusive embodiment of the process and of the thread according to the finding, illustrated by way of a non-limiting example in the annexed drawings, wherein:
  • figure 1 shows a traditional method of making the multicomponent thread
  • figure 2 shows a method of making the multicomponent thread according to the finding.
  • the first thread 10 is first made; to this end, a sliver composed of the first fibres is prepared and then, it is introduced in a wet chamber and then subject to enzymic action.
  • the fibres are then mixed and recombed, so as to obtain an even sliver.
  • the sliver is spun; to this end, the section of the sliver (which at first is very large) is reduced, making a refined sliver and the latter is subject to twisting (with S or Z twist), making the first thread 10 only consisting of natural (animal or vegetal), artificial, mineral and/or synthetic fibres, either pure or mixed with each other; for example the first fibres may comprise vicuna, cashmere, alpaca, silk, wool fibres or others, either pure or mixed with each other.
  • the first thread thus made is subject to vaporization and then, it is twisted with the second thread 11 making the multicomponent thread 12.
  • the first thread 10 is twisted with a second thread 11 having the same twist.
  • the first thread 10 and the second thread 11 are twisted with the same S or Z twist used for twisting the first thread 10 during the make thereof.
  • the first and the second thread 10, 11 are made by a Z twist
  • the first thread and the second thread are twisted with the same Z twist when the multicomponent thread 12 is made (as shown in figure 2); on the other hand, if the first and the second thread 10, 11 are twisted with S twist, the first thread and the second thread are twisted with the same twist S when the multicomponent thread 12 is made.
  • the thread thus made is spun for making a fabric or an item of clothing or a textile accessory, which is immersed in an aqueous solution, or is carbonised, so as to dissolve the second thread (soluble thread).
  • second fibres consisting of InPVA fibres; in this case, the fabric is immersed in a water bath having a ratio between fabric weight and water amount less than 1:25 and preferably equal to 1:30.
  • Such bath allows obtaining considerable water saving compared to the traditional baths that use 1 :50 ratios.
  • the fabric is immersed in the cold water bath which is added with acetic acid to obtain a PH 5.5; the water is then warmed to obtain a temperature that takes a value within the range between 85-90 0 C using the type of PVA thread corresponding to article WN8 by the company Kuraray, or a temperature that takes a value within the range between 55-60 0 C with the type of PVA corresponding to article WN4 by the same company Kuraray, and the fabric is left to spin in the bath for a time of 30 minutes +10%.
  • the fabric for clothing item or textile accessory obtained in this way is composed of the first fibres only.
  • the threads composed of the first fibres are then subject to twisting during the make thereof and then they are subject to a further twisting when they are twisted with the second thread; since the twisting always takes place in the same direction and since no opposite twisting is provided, the fibres in the end thread are very closely combined with each other; this ensures high resistance to friction and to pilling, imparting very high mechanical and aesthetic features.
  • the first fibres consist of vicuna, cashmere, alpaca, silk, wool, cotton, hemp fibres and fibres in general, natural, artificial (such as viscose), mineral (such as glass fibres, carbon fibres, asbestos fibres, aramidic fibres, kevlar) and/or synthetic, either pure or mixed with each other, which due to the limited sizes thereof (i.e., they are very thin fibres that have a very high metric number) cannot be woven or during the weaving, tend to break up.
  • natural, artificial such as viscose
  • mineral such as glass fibres, carbon fibres, asbestos fibres, aramidic fibres, kevlar
  • synthetic either pure or mixed with each other, which due to the limited sizes thereof (i.e., they are very thin fibres that have a very high metric number) cannot be woven or during the weaving, tend to break up.
  • the second fibres consist of water soluble fibres such as alginate or polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibres that are soluble in aqueous solution, or fibres soluble in carbonizing (aqueous solution of known type with a low percentage of sulphuric acid) such as vegetal and/or artificial cellulosic fibres.
  • PVA polyvinyl alcohol
  • the present finding also relates to a fabric made with a thread according to the finding which is in turn made by a process according to the finding.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Ropes Or Cables (AREA)

Abstract

Le procédé de fabrication d'un fil multicomposant composé d'une première fibre et d'une seconde fibre soluble dans un environnement dans lequel la première fibre est insoluble consiste à: produire le premier fil uniquement à l'aide des premières fibres qui sont torsadées selon une torsion S et Z, puis torsader le premier fil avec le second fil pour produire ledit fil multicomposant. Le premier fil et le second fil sont torsadés avec la même torsion S ou Z qui a servi à torsader le premier fil lors de sa production. L'invention concerne également un fil produit par un tel procédé, et un tissu constitué d'un tel fil.
PCT/IB2009/000215 2008-02-08 2009-02-06 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué Ceased WO2009098585A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000203A ITMI20080203A1 (it) 2008-02-08 2008-02-08 Procedimento per realizzare un filo multicomponente e filo multicomponente cosi' realizzato
ITMI2008A000203 2008-02-08

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009098585A2 true WO2009098585A2 (fr) 2009-08-13
WO2009098585A3 WO2009098585A3 (fr) 2009-10-01

Family

ID=40291616

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2009/000215 Ceased WO2009098585A2 (fr) 2008-02-08 2009-02-06 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué

Country Status (2)

Country Link
IT (1) ITMI20080203A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2009098585A2 (fr)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102051724A (zh) * 2010-12-29 2011-05-11 东华大学 一种生产大麻/棉和亚麻/棉高支纱线的筒子退维方法
ITMI20121433A1 (it) * 2012-08-13 2014-02-14 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
WO2015189821A1 (fr) * 2014-06-12 2015-12-17 Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna E Figli S.P.A. Procédé de fabrication d'articles en soie avec une apparence mate
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN109281030A (zh) * 2018-11-29 2019-01-29 兰州三毛实业股份有限公司 一种高档羊绒围巾及其加工方法
WO2022053414A1 (fr) * 2020-09-09 2022-03-17 J. & P. Coats, Limited Fil soluble et article le contenant

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2592153A (en) * 1941-04-11 1952-04-08 Alginate Ind Ltd Textile fabric
US2731788A (en) * 1949-10-08 1956-01-24 Cluett Composite thread.
GB1068662A (en) * 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) * 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
IT1312400B1 (it) * 1999-06-15 2002-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere
ITMI20022195A1 (it) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere.
ITMI20070467A1 (it) * 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102051724A (zh) * 2010-12-29 2011-05-11 东华大学 一种生产大麻/棉和亚麻/棉高支纱线的筒子退维方法
ITMI20121433A1 (it) * 2012-08-13 2014-02-14 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
WO2015189821A1 (fr) * 2014-06-12 2015-12-17 Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna E Figli S.P.A. Procédé de fabrication d'articles en soie avec une apparence mate
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN109281030A (zh) * 2018-11-29 2019-01-29 兰州三毛实业股份有限公司 一种高档羊绒围巾及其加工方法
WO2022053414A1 (fr) * 2020-09-09 2022-03-17 J. & P. Coats, Limited Fil soluble et article le contenant
CN117098883A (zh) * 2020-09-09 2023-11-21 J&P涂层有限公司 可溶解线和含有可溶解线的制品

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2009098585A3 (fr) 2009-10-01
ITMI20080203A1 (it) 2008-05-09

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