WO2009138801A2 - Formulation cosmétique - Google Patents

Formulation cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009138801A2
WO2009138801A2 PCT/GB2009/050522 GB2009050522W WO2009138801A2 WO 2009138801 A2 WO2009138801 A2 WO 2009138801A2 GB 2009050522 W GB2009050522 W GB 2009050522W WO 2009138801 A2 WO2009138801 A2 WO 2009138801A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
cellular
skin cellular
composition
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/GB2009/050522
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2009138801A3 (fr
Inventor
Colette Margeurite Louise Haydon
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
NB LABS Ltd
Original Assignee
NB LABS Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by NB LABS Ltd filed Critical NB LABS Ltd
Publication of WO2009138801A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009138801A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2009138801A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009138801A3/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic formulations, and in particular those intended to produce a reduction of the visible appearance of fine lines, wrinkles in the skin of a user, and an improvement of the firmness of a user's skin.
  • the inventors have found that the failure to deliver to deliver sustained improvement over time may lie in the simple fact that different levels of skin cell activity must be addressed conjointly to maintain healthy skin.
  • skin cell synthesis processes can function effectively (e.g. for the production of collagen), an increased availability of energy and nutrients is required, and furthermore, the concomitant increase in waste products from the synthetic process need to be eliminated.
  • Mitochondria the cell energy generators situated around the nucleus of the cell, produce ATP (Adenosine triphosphate), the fuel needed by the cell is generated through cell respiration. Oxygen and nutrients (such as Vitamins and essential minerals) are brought to the cell by microcapillaries; conjointly the cells are cleansed of unwanted waste materials.
  • ATP Addenosine triphosphate
  • the invention provides a skin anti-aging composition
  • a skin cellular synthesis booster selected from the group comprising: palmitoyl tripeptide (syn- CoIl); AC Nano Vesicular System P3; caprooyl tetrapeptide (Chronoline); LOXL inhibitor (Lys'Lastine); and Syn-Ake dipeptide
  • a skin cellular energiser selected from the group comprising: EUK- 134; and Rhodiomax
  • a skin cellular cleanser selected from the group comprising: EUK- 134; Photonyl LS; methyl silanol mannuronate (preferably complexed with brown alga, for example as Algisium C); and Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate;
  • the skin cellular cleanser is not EUK- 134.
  • said composition further comprises sodium hyaluronate.
  • composition further comprises Osilift.
  • composition comprises a plurality of said skin cellular synthesis boosters.
  • composition comprises a plurality of said skin cellular energisers.
  • composition comprises a plurality of said skin cellular cleansers.
  • said composition is formulated as a two-part composition, comprising: (a) a first part having a skin cellular energiser as recited in (b) of Claim 1 , a skin cellular cleanser as recited in (c) of Claim 1 ; and a cosmetically-acceptable excipient; and (b) a second part having a skin cellular synthesis booster as recited in (a) of Claim 1 , and a cosmetically-acceptable excipient.
  • one part may be formulated as e.g. a serum, and a second part formulated as e.g. a day cream or a night cream.
  • the day cream can include extra ingredients, such as sun protection factors or cosmetic colouring agents, that would not be needed for night-time use, thereby providing a flexible skin-care package to suit multiple situations.
  • a skin anti-aging composition substantially as described herein.
  • compositions according to the present invention have identified a number of suitable components that function as skin cellular synthesis boosters for use in compositions according to the present invention, as follows:
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide (Syn-coll): Syn-coll is a solution of the tripeptide palmitoyl- lysyl-valyl-lysine, preferably as the bistrifluoracetate salt, in glycerol.
  • the tripeptide has the CAS number 623172-56-5, and is available from Pentapharm Limited, Basel, Switzerland. This linking of the tripeptide to the lipid moiety provides for higher stability and optimal skin penetration.
  • the action of the tripeptide is to boost Collagen and GAG (Glycosaminoglycans) synthesis in the dermis via TGF (Transforming Growth Factor) stimulation to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, maintain optimum hydration and plumped up skin.
  • Chrono line is a composition whose active ingredient is a biomimetic peptide having stimulating growth factors, to boost key elements of the Dermo-Epidermal junction to improve nutrients available to the epidermis and skin repair.
  • Chronoline has the structure: Caprooyl-Gly-His-Lys-Lys. Chronoline is available from IMCD UK Limited, Uxbridge, UK.
  • Dipeptide (Syn-Ake) Syn-Ake is a composition containing the neuropeptide (a dipeptide, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate: H- ⁇ -Ala-Pro-Dab-NHBzl x 2 AcOH) which inhibits neuro -mediators implicated in the contraction of innervated muscle cells and neurogenic inflammation, thus providing a mild muscle relaxation (similar in effect to the use of Botox® - Boutulinum toxin) thereby helping relax expression lines and soothe the skin.
  • Syn-Ake has the CAS Registry number 823202-99- 9, and is available from Pentapharm Limited, Basel, Switzerland.
  • Lys'Lastine is a LOXL (lysyl oxidase-like) activator extracted from Dill (Puecedanum graveolens): The active ingredient is capable of boosting enzymes involved in Elastin synthesis to improve elasticity, firmness, reduce slackening of the skin and thereby remodel facial contour. Lys'Lastine is available from BASF Beauty Care Solutions LLC, New York, USA, and has the CAS Registry Number 90028-03-8.
  • AC Nano Vesicular System P3 This is a phospholipid delivery system including palmitoyl tripeptide as above with hyaluronic acid.
  • the use of the phopho lipid delivery system is particularly suited to use in an oil based product. The system is available from Piscataway, NJ, USA.
  • compositions according to the present invention have identified a number of suitable components that function as skin cellular energisers for use in compositions according to the present invention, as follows:
  • EUK-134 Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride is a compound that mimics the activity of SOD (Superoxide Dismutase) and Catalase (the intrinsic cell cleansing anti-oxidant Enzymes of the skin), transforming reactive oxygen species (ROS) into oxygen and water available for use by the cells, thus ensuring cleansing and recycling of waste.
  • SOD Superoxide Dismutase
  • Catalase the intrinsic cell cleansing anti-oxidant Enzymes of the skin
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • EUK-134 acts as a skin cell energiser, by providing a source of oxygen and water for skin metabolism.
  • Rhodiola extract e.g.
  • Rhodiomax® an extract from the root of the plants of the genus Rhodiola, an adaptogenic plant, that boosts the intake of oxygen for synthesis of ATP to recharge the cells with energy (see e.g. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, NoI 4(3), 2006, 55 - 62).
  • Rodiomax® is available from BASF Beauty Care Solutions LLC, New York, USA.
  • the active components of Rhodiola extracts include rosavin, a glycoside (CAS 84954-92-7), and other savins.
  • the Rhodiola extract is a gly colic extract, such as a butylene glycol or a penylene glycol extract of Rhodiola root.
  • Rhodiola extract similar extracts of other adaptogenic plants may be used.
  • compositions according to the present invention have identified a number of suitable components that function as skin cellular cleansers for use in compositions according to the present invention, as follows:
  • the compound EUK-134 (described more fully above) also acts as a skin cellular cleanser, by removal of ROS from the skin cells.
  • Algisium C This is organic silicon (methyl silanol mannuronate, ca. 1% (w/v) aqueous solution), complexed with brown alga. Algisium C protects against photo- oxidation, glycation of proteins and protect the skin's immune system. Algisium C is available from Exsymol S.A.M., Monaco.
  • Photonyl LS This is a complex of cytochromophores amino acids and nucleotides (Arginine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine and Disodium adensosine triphosphate), and is available widely, e.g. from KemCare Limited, Whetstone, London, UK.
  • Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate CAS Registry Number 183476-82-6, is an ester of ascorbic acid, and acts as an antioxidant to reduce lipid peroxidation in the skin.
  • Osilift® a polyose fraction derived from oats (Avena sativa)
  • Osilift® is available from Silab, Brive, France.
  • CSB Skin Cellular Synthesis Booster CE: Skin Cellular Energiser CC: Skin Cellular Cleanser
  • CSB Skin Cellular Synthesis Booster CE: Skin Cellular Energiser CC: Skin Cellular Cleanser
  • Example 2 does not contain a Skin Cellular Synthesis Booster, but may be used e.g. in combination with a serum, such as described in Example 3, to provide the components of the invention.
  • Hyaluronic acid (Proturon®) 0.02-0.8 0.2
  • CSB Skin Cellular Synthesis Booster CE: Skin Cellular Energiser CC: Skin Cellular Cleanser

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition contre le vieillissement de la peau comportant un activateur de synthèse cellulaire de la peau, un accélérateur de réparation cellulaire de la peau et un agent de nettoyage cellulaire de la peau. La composition peut être préparée dans une formulation à deux parties.
PCT/GB2009/050522 2008-05-14 2009-05-14 Formulation cosmétique Ceased WO2009138801A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0808723.1 2008-05-14
GB0808723A GB2460054B (en) 2008-05-14 2008-05-14 A skin anti-aging formulation

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009138801A2 true WO2009138801A2 (fr) 2009-11-19
WO2009138801A3 WO2009138801A3 (fr) 2010-11-18

Family

ID=39571306

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB2009/050522 Ceased WO2009138801A2 (fr) 2008-05-14 2009-05-14 Formulation cosmétique

Country Status (2)

Country Link
GB (1) GB2460054B (fr)
WO (1) WO2009138801A2 (fr)

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8318222B2 (en) 2010-02-19 2012-11-27 Mary Kay, Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US20140135269A1 (en) * 2012-10-01 2014-05-15 Peter Thomas Roth Labs, Llc Peptide And Protein-Based Formula For Improving The Appearance Of Skin
RU2551276C1 (ru) * 2014-02-03 2015-05-20 Закрытое Акционерное Общество "Фарм-Синтез" Способ получения диацетата трипептида
US9402794B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2016-08-02 Mary Kay Inc. Topical skin care formulation
WO2016194760A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 ロート製薬株式会社 Procédé cosmétique et agent topique dermatologique pour utilisation dans celui-ci, agent conférant la migration, et procédé de criblage de composants pour utilisation dans un procédé cosmétique pour améliorer l'état de la peau
CN107857797A (zh) * 2017-12-07 2018-03-30 陕西慧康生物科技有限责任公司 一种类蛇毒三肽的液相片段合成方法
US10722436B2 (en) 2015-08-10 2020-07-28 Mary Kay Inc. Topical compositions
WO2024110164A1 (fr) 2022-11-24 2024-05-30 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Utilisation d'une composition pour fournir de l'énergie luminescente sur la peau

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102009054980A1 (de) * 2009-12-18 2011-06-22 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Kosmetische Mittel, enthaltend EUK-134 und/oder EUK-118 und mindestens einen Pflegestoff

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1158067C (zh) * 2000-02-03 2004-07-21 上海家化联合股份有限公司 一种皮肤抗皱组合物
FR2855968B1 (fr) * 2003-06-13 2012-11-30 Coletica Stimulation de la synthese et de l'activite d'une isoforme de la lysyl oxydase-like loxl pour stimuler la formation de fibres elastiques
US20070237735A1 (en) * 2006-03-31 2007-10-11 Laboratoires Dermo-Cosmetik Inc. Anti-aging composition, kit and method of use

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8318222B2 (en) 2010-02-19 2012-11-27 Mary Kay, Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US9402794B2 (en) 2011-12-07 2016-08-02 Mary Kay Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US20160303019A1 (en) * 2011-12-07 2016-10-20 Mary Kay Inc. Topical skin care formulation
US20140135269A1 (en) * 2012-10-01 2014-05-15 Peter Thomas Roth Labs, Llc Peptide And Protein-Based Formula For Improving The Appearance Of Skin
RU2551276C1 (ru) * 2014-02-03 2015-05-20 Закрытое Акционерное Общество "Фарм-Синтез" Способ получения диацетата трипептида
WO2016194760A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 ロート製薬株式会社 Procédé cosmétique et agent topique dermatologique pour utilisation dans celui-ci, agent conférant la migration, et procédé de criblage de composants pour utilisation dans un procédé cosmétique pour améliorer l'état de la peau
JPWO2016194760A1 (ja) * 2015-05-29 2018-03-15 ロート製薬株式会社 美容方法およびそれに用いる皮膚外用剤、並びに遊走付与剤、皮膚状態を向上させる美容方法に用いられる成分のスクリーニング方法
US10722436B2 (en) 2015-08-10 2020-07-28 Mary Kay Inc. Topical compositions
US11179305B2 (en) 2015-08-10 2021-11-23 Mary Kay Inc. Topical compositions
CN107857797A (zh) * 2017-12-07 2018-03-30 陕西慧康生物科技有限责任公司 一种类蛇毒三肽的液相片段合成方法
WO2024110164A1 (fr) 2022-11-24 2024-05-30 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Utilisation d'une composition pour fournir de l'énergie luminescente sur la peau

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2009138801A3 (fr) 2010-11-18
GB2460054A (en) 2009-11-18
GB0808723D0 (en) 2008-06-18
GB2460054B (en) 2010-11-24

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