WO2011000649A2 - Produit cosmétique de protection capillaire ii - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique de protection capillaire ii Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011000649A2
WO2011000649A2 PCT/EP2010/057546 EP2010057546W WO2011000649A2 WO 2011000649 A2 WO2011000649 A2 WO 2011000649A2 EP 2010057546 W EP2010057546 W EP 2010057546W WO 2011000649 A2 WO2011000649 A2 WO 2011000649A2
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malus
weight
acid
alkyl
hair
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2011000649A3 (fr
Inventor
Monika Noll
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, preferably agents for the treatment of keratinous fibers, the at least one plant cell suspension and the use of at least one plant cell suspension in keratin fiber treatment agents, preferably to improve the moisture of keratin fibers, especially human hair, to protect the fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation to protect the fibers from destructuring and to improve the color retention and color intensity of dyed fibers.
  • a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure.
  • Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product.” By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.
  • a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents.
  • the aim is also that the hair is protected from aggressive oxidizing agents or UV radiation by suitable ingredients.
  • Another disadvantage of strong and frequent sun exposure is that the hair color changes or fades faster. Also, this effect should optimally be avoided or reduced, without the need for the use of other care products.
  • EP 1 985 280 A2 describes the use of dedifferentiated plant cells in cosmetic products for the protection of stem cells against intrinsic and extrinsic stress factors, in particular for promoting the proliferation of stem cells and their protection against apoptosis (cell death).
  • This document refers in particular to the use of dedifferentiated plant cells from the fruits of Malus domestica (apple) of the variety Uttwiler Maulauber (Malus domestica cultivar Uttwiler Maulauber). It has now been found that known care substances can be improved in their effect on keratinic fibers when they are used together with plant cell suspensions in hair cleansing compositions.
  • the subject matter of the present invention is compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, contained in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, in each case based on their weight, a) at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension,
  • Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are hair cleansing preparations and rinsable care products, in particular shampoos and conditioners.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension.
  • Methods of plant-cell culture technique include techniques that allow to obtain uniform dedifferentiated cells following certain known process steps, which have the following advantages over whole cultivated plants: independence of seasons; continuous production; free of environmental pollution and other impurities; controllable and reproducible production of metabolites in terms of quantity and quality; Protection of rare or limited plant reserves; no restriction of market availability.
  • the basis of cultivating such dedifferentiated plant cells utilizes the biological fact that each plant cell carries the ability to form the whole plant from which it originated.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the subfamily Maloideae (pome fruit).
  • the plant clade Malodieae includes, for example, the plant genera: rock pear (Amelanchier), aria, aronia, Chaenomeles, Chamaemeles, Chamaemespilus, Cormus, Laceaster (Cotoneaster), hawthorn (Crataegus), quince (Cydonia), Dichotomanthes, Docynia, Docyniopsis, Loquat (Eriobotrya), Eriolobus, Hesperomeles, Heteromeles, Apples (Malus), Melacomenes, Medlars (Mespilus), Osteomeles, Peraphyllum, Brilliant Medlars (Photinia), Pseudocydonia, Firethorn (Pyracantha), Pears (Pyrus), Rhaphiolepis, Whitefish ( Sorbus), Stranvaesia, Torminalis. Within these genera some are erfndungsloom particularly suitable. Plant cell suspension of plants of the
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of the genus Malus (apples), wherein preferred plant cells are selected from cells of: Malus aldenhamensis, Malus angustifolia, Malus * arnoldiana (M. baccata * M. floribunda ), Malus asiatica, Malus * atrosanguineum (M. halliana * M. sieboldii), Malus baccata, Malus bracteata, Malus brevipes, Malus coronaria, Malus daochengensis, Malus dasyphylia, Malus * domestica, Malus doumeri (Bois) A.
  • preferred plant cells are selected from cells of: Malus aldenhamensis, Malus angustifolia, Malus * arnoldiana (M. baccata * M. floribunda ), Malus asiatica, Malus * atrosanguineum (M. halliana * M
  • compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one dedifferentiated plant cell suspension of plants of Malus domestica Cultivar Uttwiler Maulauber (apple strain Uttwiler Maulauber).
  • compositions of the present invention contain one or more plant cell suspensions and whichever plant cell suspension (s) is employed, compositions according to the invention are preferred which, by weight, are from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.002 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, and especially 0.05 to 7% by weight of the plant cell suspension (s).
  • the compositions of the invention contain at least one care substance from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide; L-ascorbic acid; thiamine; riboflavin; biotin; Taurine and / or its salts; ubiquinone; Ectoin; allantoin; Caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine; as well as the amino acids.
  • L-carnitine and / or its salts panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone
  • Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide L-ascorbic acid
  • thiamine riboflavin
  • biotin Taurine and / or its
  • compositions according to the invention which contain the care substance (s) in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, based on their weight 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%.
  • care substance (s) in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, based on their weight 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%.
  • a first group of preferred care substances to be used are the compounds L-carnitine or its salts.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 4 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.75 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine and / or its salts ,
  • Panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy- ⁇ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and a further group of preferred care substances to be used represent the compounds panthenol, pantothenic acid and pantolactone or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone) are preferably used individually or in admixture with each other in total amounts of up to 7, 5 wt .-% used.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight, even more preferably 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of panthenol and / or pantothenic acid and / or pantolactone.
  • Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide are preferably used individually or mixed with one another in total amounts of up to 5% by weight.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on their weight, even more preferably 0.15 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% niacin and / or niacinamide and / or nicotinamide.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain L-ascorbic acid and / or thiamine and / or rioboflavin.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of L-ascorbic acid and / or thiamine and / or rioboflavin.
  • Biotin vitamin B 7 , vitamin H
  • taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid)
  • ectoine are preferably used individually or mixed with each other in total amounts of up to 5% by weight. % used.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% biotin and / or taurine and / or ectoine and / or allantoin.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain certain purine derivatives.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 2.5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0, based on their weight , 05 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% caffeine and / or theophylline and / or theobromine contained.
  • the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • the agents according to the invention may comprise at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances.
  • Particularly preferred agents contain at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR 4 - or a chemical bond
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 6 ) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C 1 -Ce) - Alkylene group, or a (C-rC 6 ) acyl radical, wherein preferred radicals are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
  • R 4 is -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 ,
  • n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% of at least one Ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.0002 to 4 wt.%, Preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt.%, More preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)
  • n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular from 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one surfactant.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are particularly preferred.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - wear or -SO '' 'group 3
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N - COO ().
  • N alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which have, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free
  • Amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and for training internal salts are capable.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines,
  • N-alkylaminopropionic acids N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant (s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids having in each case about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionates, C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine, N- Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammoni
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (I)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms
  • surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which - based on their weight - 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5% by weight of surfactant (s) of the formula ( I) included.
  • the hair-treatment compositions according to the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (II)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
  • surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (IIa)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.
  • surfactants of the formula (II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • surfactants of the formula (II) within narrower ranges of amounts.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (II).
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the
  • R in the formulas (I) and (II) is selected from H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -, H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 9 -, H 3 C- (CH 2 ) ii-,
  • H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 13- , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 15- , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -CH CH- (CH 2 ) 7 - or mixtures of these.
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, hair cleaners according to the invention are preferred as nonionic surfactants
  • Alkylpolyglycoside of the general formula RO- (Z) x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.
  • alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula
  • RO (Z) x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanol- ammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group: linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C.
  • Atoms (soaps), acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates , Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, monoglyceride sulfates, condensation products of C 8 -
  • C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred hair cleansers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no alkyl and alkenyl sulfates.
  • alkyl or alkenyl ether sulfates is also not preferred according to the invention.
  • hair cleansers containing no alkyl and alkenyl ether sulfates are preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are rather contraindicated in the compositions according to the invention, so that particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are free of sulphate.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s)
  • Surfactant (s) is / are selected from: alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium
  • the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which are present in the
  • Main and / or side chain have a group which may be "temporary" or “permanent” cationic.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.
  • the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).
  • agents contain amphoteric polymers or not
  • further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.
  • Cationic polymers which can preferably be used according to the invention are described below: homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X ' is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters and Methacrylic acid Ci- 4 alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC. Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are. As cationic polymers and cationic protein hydrolysates can be used.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected from
  • the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers preferably usable amphoteric polymers are composed essentially together
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A () (ZI)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
  • R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or
  • Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,
  • the monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner.
  • the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).
  • Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.
  • the zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (ZI) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. As particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the
  • Formula (Z-I) over the monomers of formula (Z-II) were present in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.
  • amphoteric polymer (s) comprise monomers A) and B), wherein A) and B) are selected from
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A () (ZI)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
  • the amphoteric polymers used in the agents according to the invention contain monomers from the group of the acrylamides and / or methacrylamides with alkylammonium groups.
  • Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methyl-crotonic acid have proven useful as monomers with anionic groups which are additionally present in the polymers.
  • the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, Monomuls 90 L12 ® or Cutina ® MD.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ - Hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C 12 -C 5 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • the amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one plant extract.
  • An extract in the sense of the present application is a substance or substance mixture which has been obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution. A distinction is made according to the nature dry extracts. Extracts evaporated to dryness, fluid extracts i. extracts prepared with solvents such that at most 2 parts of fluid extract are recovered from one part of the drug, viscous extracts or thick extracts, i. Extracts in which part of the solvent is evaporated.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • Extracts of Echinacea or Moringa plants are particularly preferred.
  • the plant extracts from plants of the genus Echinacea can from various plant extracts from plants of the genus Echinacea.
  • Active substances are obtained. Especially preferred are extracts of
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract from the group of extracts of pomegranate, roibos, almond,
  • Pomegranate extracts are particularly preferred according to the invention, since they significantly improve the combability, in particular the wet combability, of keratinic fibers and give the fibers more fullness and volume.
  • Extracts of pomegranate are mainly from the fruits, partly from whole fruits, partly from pure pulp, partly from pre-washed seeds, partly from the
  • pomegranate-pressed pomegranate oil can be used according to the invention as a pomegranate extract.
  • the extracts are rich in pomegranate polyphenols such. As of punicalagin, ellagitannine or ellagic acid.
  • Roibos extract also called rooibos extract.
  • Extracts of Roibos are made from the branches of the plant.
  • Roibos extracts preferred according to the invention are produced from unfermented Roibos.
  • Almond extracts can be prepared from the flowers, the fruit or the stone of the fruit.
  • the berry-like drupes contain one to five seeds and can be black, blue or red.
  • Elderberry extracts can be made from the flowers, fruits or seeds of the fruits. According to the invention, extracts from the fruits of the black are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only product approved worldwide that has been proven efficacy and tolerability in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application.
  • Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, i. the binding of DHT to the
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • Additional antidandruff active ingredients for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione
  • climbazole for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione
  • Antidandruff active ingredients react. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • antidandruff active ingredients in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.
  • carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected from monosaccharides, in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose, disaccharides, in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
  • preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 to 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, which is selected from: (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted silicone polymers with polysiloxane backbone to which they do not
  • compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • silicones have viscosities at 20 0 C for from 0.2 to 2 mmV 1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV 1 are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. through the formula
  • R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar group of the general formula -R 1 HZ wherein R 1 is a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the group Z is bonded, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25
  • y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO (4 a . b) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4. c) / 2 units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)
  • G is H, phenyl, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 2 S ) 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , - CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ;
  • a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;
  • b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R - R ' is a monovalent radical selected from
  • each Q is a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 2 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • R represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 - CH (CH 3) Ph, the C-
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • agents according to the invention which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the d-zo-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.
  • hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent.
  • NTU Nephelometry Turbidity Unit
  • NTU Nephelometric Turbidity Value
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the selection of a suitable UV filter is described in the priority document DE 10 2009 027 360, to which reference is made in full.
  • the compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols zoosterols, e.g., cholesterols and lanosterols; phytosterols, e.g., ergosterol,
  • Phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or
  • Plant seeds eg soybeans
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol e.g soybeans
  • sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid,
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or
  • Triethanolammonium salt present.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • this compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -Ci 4 -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.
  • Such compounds are, for example, under the trademark
  • Carbopol ® commercially available.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinks, are also dye-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • agents according to the invention can be nonionic
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and
  • Benecel ® (Aqualon) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules) are sold.
  • Starch and its derivatives in particular starch, such as Structure XL ®
  • the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for the care of human
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of an agent according to the invention for hair cleaning and care, in particular for cleaning and
  • Dehyquart ® F75 fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat dialkyl ester mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Henkel)

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, contenant dans un support cosmétique ou dermatologique adapté, respectivement par rapport à leur poids, au moins une suspension de cellules végétales dédifférenciée; au moins un agent de soin choisi dans le groupe de la L-carnitine et/ou de ses sels, de panthénol et/ou d'acide panthothénique, des 2-furanones et/ou de leurs dérivés, notamment pantolactone, niacine, niacinamide ou nicotinamide, d'acide L-ascorbique, de thiamine, de riboflavine, de biotine, de taurine et/ou de ses sels, d'ubiquinone, d'éctoïne, d'allantoïne, de caféine et/ou de théophylline et/ou de théobromine, et d'acides aminés; et 0,1 à 80 % en poids d'au moins tensioactif. Lesdites compositions sont particulièrement adaptées pour empêcher et réparer des dégâts intrinsèques et extrinsèques.
PCT/EP2010/057546 2009-06-30 2010-05-31 Produit cosmétique de protection capillaire ii Ceased WO2011000649A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102009027361A DE102009027361A1 (de) 2009-06-30 2009-06-30 Haarschutz-Kosmetikum II
DE102009027361.1 2009-06-30

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WO2011000649A3 WO2011000649A3 (fr) 2011-09-15

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2937075A4 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2016-07-20 Botica Com Farmacêutica Ltda Ingrédient protecteur de la barrière cutanée et formulation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique contenant cet ingrédient

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10463603B2 (en) 2012-01-05 2019-11-05 L'oreal Cosmetic use of dedifferentiated plant cells
FR3007982B1 (fr) 2013-07-05 2015-08-21 Oreal Stabilisation des cellules dedifferenciees de rose.
CN111956587B (zh) * 2020-09-16 2021-05-04 孙开军 一种乌黑亮发洗发露及其制备方法

Family Cites Families (7)

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DE4413686C2 (de) 1994-04-20 1996-10-24 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und deren Verwendung
DE19756454C1 (de) 1997-12-18 1999-06-17 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Glycerincarbonat
CH715456B1 (de) 2007-04-27 2020-04-30 Mibelle Ag Kosmetisches Produkt zur topischen Anwendung für den Schutz und die Erneuerung von Hautstammzellen, welches sich von dedifferenzierten Pflanzenzellen ableitet.
DE102007039741A1 (de) * 2007-08-22 2009-02-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Tensid(en) und Melatonin/Agomelatin
DE102007059705A1 (de) * 2007-12-10 2009-06-25 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarreinigungsmittel mit Tensid-/Pflegekombination
CH698274B1 (de) * 2008-12-12 2009-06-30 Labo Cosprophar Ag Komplex aktiver pflanzlicher Stammzellen und kosmetische Komposition.
DE102009027199A1 (de) * 2009-06-25 2010-12-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa UV-Schutz-Kosmetikum

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2937075A4 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2016-07-20 Botica Com Farmacêutica Ltda Ingrédient protecteur de la barrière cutanée et formulation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique contenant cet ingrédient

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