WO2012084528A1 - Procédé et composition pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Procédé et composition pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084528A1
WO2012084528A1 PCT/EP2011/072176 EP2011072176W WO2012084528A1 WO 2012084528 A1 WO2012084528 A1 WO 2012084528A1 EP 2011072176 W EP2011072176 W EP 2011072176W WO 2012084528 A1 WO2012084528 A1 WO 2012084528A1
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Prior art keywords
keratin
mmol
formula
compounds
composition according
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PCT/EP2011/072176
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Yvonne Lissner
Birgit Rautenberg-Groth
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Priority to EP11801662.5A priority Critical patent/EP2654702A1/fr
Publication of WO2012084528A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012084528A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for smoothing keratin-containing fibers and compositions for carrying out this method.
  • the permanent deformation of keratin-containing fibers is usually carried out by mechanically deforming the fiber and defining the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing compound and rinsed after a contact time with water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fiber is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time, this is also rinsed out.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing compound is usually adjusted to be alkaline so that, on the one hand, a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions are deprotonated and, on the other hand, the fiber swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is made possible.
  • the keratin-reducing compound cleaves some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, resulting in a loosening of the peptide cross-linking and, due to the tension of the fiber by the mechanical deformation, a reorientation of the keratin layer.
  • the smoothing keratin fibers containing highly curled has the disadvantage that after application of the keratin-reducing compound, the fibers must be straightened either by constant, such as combing, or by fixing aids, such as large diameter Wckler, in a smooth shape.
  • the fibers must be straightened either by constant, such as combing, or by fixing aids, such as large diameter Wckler, in a smooth shape.
  • It would be conceivable to simplify the smoothing process by using a viscous preparation with keratin-reducing compounds. A viscous preparation complains the straightened fibers and lets them unhook.
  • the viscous almost pasty or cream-like or gel-like consistency keeps the fibers in their position during the exposure time through the sheath.
  • the reductive, viscous preparation applied in vivo permanently wets the scalp and the hair root canals.
  • the keratin-reducing composition useful for smoothing, when applied on the hair in vivo as a cosmetic, must not cause scalp irritation or impaired hair root function by prolonged and intense contact with the scalp.
  • a gentle smoothing is particularly advantageous if hair coloring, in particular oxidative hair dyeing, is subsequently to take place.
  • the smoothing process should be self-applied, that is, the user should be able to easily execute the smoothing process on his own head hair.
  • the smoothing process should lead to an effective smoothing result, and be gentle on the skin and the hair root.
  • a first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 5000-150000 mPas (20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation
  • R is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or carboxy methyl Ig ru ppe,
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group -COOM ', in which M' represents one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group,
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, corresponds.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetic carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetic carriers are water-containing cosmetic carriers.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably contains at least 10% by weight of water, more preferably at least 40% by weight of water, most preferably at least 60% by weight of water, in each case based on the total agent.
  • a compound is considered keratin-reducing if a solution of 50 mmol of this compound in 100 g of water at 20 ° C. and a pH of 8 (adjusted with 2-aminoethanol) disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH- Groups splits.
  • compositions of the invention having a viscosity of 7500 to 100,000 mPas, preferably from 9,000 to 80,000 mPas, more preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, completely particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, as keratin-reducing compounds, exclusively keratin-reducing compounds according to formulas (I) and (II).
  • M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
  • the monovalent or polyvalent cation M z + with a charge number z of one or higher serves merely to compensate for the singly negative charge of the saline-forming carboxylate fragment -COO " in formula (I), for which the equivalent cation of the corresponding cation is to be used 1 / z
  • the fragment -COOM of the formula (I) in the case of salt formation stands for the group: -COO " 1 / z (M z + ).
  • physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cation M z + .
  • these are metal cations of physiologically acceptable metals from the Groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom.
  • the latter are formed for example by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as with compounds of formula (I) in their acidic form, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines.
  • (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ions are preferred.
  • these cationic organic (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolammonium ions are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
  • M in formula (I) is preferably a hydrogen atom, an NH 4 + ion, a (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, for half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or half an equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably for a hydrogen atom or a (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolammonium ion.
  • the term (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ion means organic ammonium compounds which have two to six carbon atoms which form a carbon skeleton to which at least one ammonio group (preferably exactly one ammonio group) and at least one hydroxy group (again preferably exactly one hydroxy group) binds.
  • Preferred (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ions are 2-ammonioethane-1-ol, 3-ammoniopropane-1-ol, 4-ammoniobutan-1-ol, 5-ammoniopentan-1-ol, 1-ammononiopropane 2-ol, 1-ammoniobutan-2-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-2-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-3-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-4-ol, 3-ammonio-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 - Ammonio-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-ammoniopropane-1, 2-diol or 2-ammonio-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol.
  • M in formula (I) is a hydrogen atom, 2-ammonioethane-1-ol or 2-ammonio-2-methylpropan-1-ol.
  • the keratin-reducing compounds of the formula (I) are preferably present in an amount of from 21.70 mmol to 65.14 mmol.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one keratin-reducing compound of the formula (I) in which R is a hydrogen atom.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as further compulsory component at least one keratin-reducing compound according to formula (II).
  • the keratin reducing compounds of formula (II) carry a chiral center, any stereoisomers of said chiral derivatives are included. It is preferably the L-form.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains at least one keratin-reducing compound of the formula (II) in which R 2 is a carboxyl group or a carboxylate group -COOM ', in which M' is an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation ,
  • compositions according to the invention in turn preferably contain according to the invention at least one keratin-reducing compound of the formula (II) selected from at least one compound from the group formed from cysteine, acetylcysteine, cysteamine, the salts of these compounds.
  • the compound of formula (II) is selected from cysteine or a salt thereof (especially L-cysteine or a salt thereof (especially L-cysteine hydrochloride)).
  • the keratin-reducing compounds of the formula (II) are preferably present in an amount of from 8.88 mmol to 38.07 mmol in 100 g of the composition according to the invention.
  • Particularly suitable cosmetic compositions contain the compounds of formula (I) and of formula (II) (or their respective preferred representatives) in a molar ratio of the compounds of formula (I) to the compounds of formula (II) in a range of 7 1 to 1 to 6, in particular from 6 to 1 to 1 to 5, very particularly preferably from 5 to 1 to 1 to 4.
  • compositions according to the invention were obtained when the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds in 100 g of the composition according to the invention does not exceed 130 mmol. It was particularly preferred if the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds in 100 g of the composition according to the invention does not exceed 75 mmol.
  • compositions according to the invention were obtained when the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds in 100 g of the composition according to the invention is at least 10 mmol. It was particularly preferred if the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds in 100 g of the composition according to the invention is at least 30 mmol.
  • the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds is in a quantity range from 10 mmol to 130 mmol, in particular from 30 mmol to 75 mmol.
  • compositions according to the invention particularly well achieve the object if the pH is greater than pH 7, in particular pH 7.5 to pH 10.0, particularly preferably pH 8.0 to pH 9.5.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 5000-150000 mPas (20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation
  • R represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or carboxy methyl group, at least one keratin reducing compound of the formula (IIa)
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, corresponds.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 5000-150000 mPas (20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, corresponds.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of from 7500 to 100,000 mPas, preferably from 9000 to 80,000 mPas, more preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm) contained in a cosmetic vehicle
  • M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation
  • R is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or a carboxy methyl group
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin-reducing compounds of the formula (I) in an amount of 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of keratin-reducing compounds of the formula (II) in an amount of 6.00 mmol to 63.00 mmol corresponds.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of from 7500 to 100,000 mPas, preferably from 9000 to 80,000 mPas, more preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm) contained in a cosmetic vehicle
  • M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation, at least one keratin-reducing compound of the formula (IIa)
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, corresponds.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 5000-150000 mPas (20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation
  • R represents a V hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or a carboxy methyl group
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, and the molar ratio of the compounds of formula (I) to the compounds of formula (II) in a range from 7 to 1 to 1 to 6, in particular from 6 to 1 to 1 to 5, most preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 4, is located.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 5000-150000 mPas (20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, wherein in 100 g of the composition the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, and the molar ratio of the compounds of formula (I) to the compounds of formula (II) in a range from 7 to 1 to 1 to 6, in particular from 6 to 1 to 1 to 5, most preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 4, is located.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of from 7500 to 100,000 mPas, preferably from 9000 to 80,000 mPas, more preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm) contained in a cosmetic vehicle
  • M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation
  • R is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or a carboxy methyl group
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, and the molar ratio of the compounds of formula (I) to the compounds of formula (II) in a range from 7 to 1 to 1 to 6, in particular from 6 to 1 to 1 to 5, most preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 4, is located.
  • Cosmetic composition having a viscosity of 7500 to 100,000 mPas, preferably from 9000 to 80,000 mPas, particularly preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (in each case at 20 ° C., 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 rpm), contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • M represents a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation
  • M ' represents a hydrogen atom, one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -alkyl group
  • the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (I) is from 10.85 mmol to 1.19.40 mmol and the total amount of the keratin reducing compounds of the formula (II) is from 6.00 mmol to 63, 00 mmol, and the molar ratio of the compounds of formula (I) to the compounds of formula (II) in a range from 7 to 1 to 1 to 6, in particular from 6 to 1 to 1 to 5, most preferably from 2 to 1 to 1 to 4, is located.
  • the total amount of all keratin-reducing compounds is in the range from 10 mmol to 130 mmol, in particular from 30 mmol to 75 mmol.
  • compositions of the respective embodiment do not contain any further keratin-reducing compounds apart from the keratin-reducing compounds explicitly mentioned in the embodiment.
  • compositions of the invention preferably contain at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agent is again preferably selected from a compound selected from the group formed
  • the term (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolamine means organic amine compounds which have a carbon skeleton of two to six carbon atoms, to which at least one amino group (preferably exactly one amino group) and at least one hydroxyl group (again preferably exactly one hydroxy group ) binds.
  • the (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolamines according to the invention are preferably primary amines.
  • At least one (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolamine having exactly one amino group is preferred.
  • this is preferably a primary amine.
  • composition of the invention preferably contains at least one (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentane-1 -ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane -1 -ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol (especially under 2-aminoethane-1-ol , 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol).
  • Monoethanolamine has proven to be a particularly suitable (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the (C 2 to C 6 ) alkanolamines in an amount of from 0.5% by weight to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.7% by weight to 2.0% by weight. -%, in each case based on the weight of the entire composition.
  • the compound comprising at least one HCO 3 ⁇ ion and / or at least one C0 3 2 ⁇ ion is preferably selected from Na 2 C0 3 , NaHC0 3 , K 2 C0 3 , KHC0 3 , CaC0 3 or mixtures thereof ( in particular under Na 2 C0 3 , NaHC0 3 or mixtures thereof).
  • compositions according to the invention may contain components which enhance the power, for example
  • heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole.
  • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine. According to the invention Arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides are particularly preferred.
  • Diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol.
  • the reinforcing compounds may be present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain at least one oil component.
  • Oil components which are suitable according to the invention are, in principle, all oils and fatty substances and also mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. Preference is given to those oil components whose solubility in water at 20 ° C. is less than 1% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the melting point of the individual oil or fat components is preferably below about 40 ° C.
  • Oil components which are at room temperature, d. H. may be liquid below 25 ° C, may be particularly preferred according to the invention. When using several oil and fat components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is usually sufficient, however, if the mixture of oil and fat components and possibly paraffins and waxes meets these conditions.
  • a preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Another particularly preferred group of oil components which can be used according to the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred.
  • This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate and Neopentylglykoldi-capylate oil components used in the invention, as complex esters such.
  • oil components which can preferably be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes.
  • the oil component used is in particular cyclic siloxanes.
  • dialkyl carbonates which can be used according to the invention are dioctyl carbonates, in particular the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain only limited water-miscible alcohols.
  • water-immiscible miscible are meant alcohols which are soluble in water at not more than 10% by weight, based on the mass of water, at 20 ° C.
  • triols and, in particular, diols are particularly suitable according to the invention
  • Alcohols having 4 to 20, in particular 4 to 10, carbon atoms can be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred alcohols according to the invention are 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1,3-butanol-1, cyclohexanol, pentanol-1 and 1,2-butanediol 2-Ethyl-hexanediol-1, 3, but also butanol-1 and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.
  • emulsifiers can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example, adducts of 4 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the particular total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the hydrous composition according to the invention may be in various forms, for example as a lotion, oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention contain a caring active substance selected from protein hydrolysates and their derivatives.
  • the protein derivatives are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably also comprise at least one conditioning active substance.
  • Suitable conditioning substances are preferably cationic polymers. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Suitable conditioning agents are also ampho-polymers.
  • ampho-polymers amphoteric polymers, i. H. Polymers containing in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers containing in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and - COO-- or -SO 3 - groups, and such polymers summarized, the -COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • the cationic or amphoteric polymers are contained in the preparations according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.
  • Suitable conditioning agents are also silicone gums.
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • estersquats such as those marketed under the trademarks Dehyquart ® and Stepantex ® methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfate be used.
  • Alkylamidoamines in particular fatty acid amidoamines, such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine obtainable under the name Tego Amid® S 18, are distinguished not only by a good conditioning action but also by their good biodegradability.
  • compositions according to the invention are:
  • anionic surfactants such as soaps, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates,
  • Salts of ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH in which R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16.
  • zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N- Alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
  • nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
  • anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives, which are obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents,
  • Polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and also polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinylpropionate-crotonic acid copolymers,
  • organic thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, methylpropyl cellulose or methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose), gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum.
  • Ethoxylated fatty alcohols especially those with limited homolog distribution, such as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ® F (Henkel) in the market, alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate ® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil ® 141 (Goldschmidt) may be preferred organic thickeners.
  • Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin,
  • Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3-distearate,
  • a second subject of the invention is a kit-of-parts comprising
  • Oxidizing agents in the sense of the invention are capable of oxidatively forming a disulfide bond from two thiol groups. Preferred are sodium bromate or potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is a particularly preferred oxidizing agent.
  • the containers each have an application aid, which allows a direct application of the corresponding composition from the container to the hair.
  • this application aid on tines or bristles or nubs, with the help of which the hair can be mechanically smoothed.
  • a mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean a stretching of the curly, keratin-containing fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • the oxidative preparation preferably contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • the pH of the oxidative preparation is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4.
  • the oxidative preparation preferably contains 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 2.0 to 9 wt .-%, oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the kit additionally comprises
  • the coloring composition according to the invention is capable of visibly altering the color of fibers containing keratin by the presence of the color-changing compound to the healthy human eye.
  • the color-changing compounds in the context of the present invention are preferably selected
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one coupler component is additionally used when using at least one developer component.
  • developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • binuclear developer components are in particular: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol and bis (2-hydroxy) Hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, and 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-5-methylphenol and its physiologically acceptable salts. Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic
  • Developer components such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • a preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • Suitable coupler substances are, in particular, 1-naphthol, 1,5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-acetoxy-2-methoxynaphthalene, resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol and 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • (C) m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2' hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene,
  • (F) pyridine derivatives such as 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1,5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 2, 6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the agents according to the invention comprise at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye.
  • precursors of naturally-analogous dyes such indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 2,3-dioxoindoline (isatin) and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred derivative of indole is 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Substantive dyes which may be present in the dyeing composition according to the invention include anionic direct dyes, cationic direct dyes, nonionic substantive dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, in particular, di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 44.045; Basic Blue 26), 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) - naphthalene chloride (Cl 56.059, Basic Blue No.
  • the compounds known as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are most preferred cationic substantive dyes of the group.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) - aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4
  • direct dyes also naturally occurring dyes may be used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.
  • the coloring composition has a pH greater than pH 8.
  • a third object of the invention is a process for smoothing and, if appropriate, simultaneous dyeing of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which
  • Tools for mechanical smoothing are in particular a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron. During step (iii) there is preferably no use of mechanical smoothing aids.
  • step (i) it is optional according to the invention to wet the keratin-containing fibers before step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • a liquid preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step There remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair.
  • the agent of the first subject of the invention can also be applied to non-moistened keratin-containing fibers.
  • Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • the reaction time Z1 is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.
  • the reaction time Z2 is preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 5 to 20 minutes.
  • oxidative compositions which can be used in the process according to the invention are the oxidative preparations described in connection with the kit-of-parts of the second subject of the invention or a mixture of the oxidative preparations described therein and the coloring compositions of the second subject of the invention.
  • the method according to the invention is suitable for smoothing and simultaneous coloring of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • an oxidative preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent and a coloring composition containing at least one coloring compound is mixed according to step (iv) immediately before the application, the application mixture is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after the reaction time Z2.
  • the resulting admixture of oxidative preparation and coloring composition is considered to be the oxidative composition of step (iv) of this embodiment and contains at least one oxidizing agent and additionally at least one coloring compound.
  • the oxidative composition used in step (iv) on the fibers preferably has a viscosity of from 5000 to 100,000 mPas, again preferably from 9,000 to 80,000 mPas, particularly preferably from 10,000 to 60,000 mPas, very particularly preferably from 20,000 to 50,000 mPas (each at 20 ° C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5, 5 U / min) on.
  • a conditioning agent can be applied to the keratin-containing fibers following step (iv) and rinsed off again after a contact time.
  • This conditioning agent preferably has a pH of pH less than 7, in particular in a pH range between pH 5.5 and pH 7, on. Examples
  • compositions of Table 1 were packaged in a container with application aid with prongs.
  • polyacrylic acid crosslinked with polyalkenyl polyether (INCI name: Carbomer) (Noveon)
  • Kit 1 (B1) and (Ol) and (F1)
  • Kit 2 (B2) and (02) and (F2)
  • Each subject applied the corresponding inventive composition of Table 1 by combing movements with the aid of the application aid of the container directly on the hair.
  • the composition of the invention was allowed to act for 20 minutes and rinsed thoroughly under running water. Subsequently, the respective oxidative preparation and the coloring composition were mixed and applied the resulting mixture with a brush on the hair. After a contact time of 10 minutes, the hair was thoroughly rinsed under running water, combed and dried.
  • the natural hair of the subjects was smoothed and received an intense color.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques présentant une viscosité de 5000-150000 mPas (20°C, 1013 mbar, Brookfield RTV, spindle 5,5 RPM), qui contiennent, dans un véhicule cosmétique, au moins un composé réducteur de kératine de formule (I), dans laquelle M représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un équivalent d'un cation monovalent ou multivalent, R1 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement méthyle, éthyle ou carboxyméthyle, et au moins un composé réducteur de kératine de formule (II), dans laquelle R2 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement carboxyle, un groupement carboxylate -COOM', dans lequel M' représente un équivalent d'un cation monovalent ou multivalent ou un groupement alkyle (C2 à C4). Sur 100 g de composition, la quantité totale de composés réducteurs de kératine de formule (I) correspond à 10,85 mmol à 119,40 mmol, et la quantité totale de composés réducteurs de kératine de formule (II) correspond à 6,30 mmol bis 63,00 mmol. Ces compositions conviennent pour un lissage doux des fibres kératiniques. Elles sont faciles à appliquer et permettent de supprimer un recours excessif à des moyens auxiliaires de déformation mécaniques lors du lissage capillaire.
PCT/EP2011/072176 2010-12-20 2011-12-08 Procédé et composition pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques Ceased WO2012084528A1 (fr)

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DE201010063518 DE102010063518A1 (de) 2010-12-20 2010-12-20 Verfahren und Zusammensetzungen zur Glättung keratinhaltiger Fasern
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Citations (8)

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US5520909A (en) * 1994-12-06 1996-05-28 Conair Corporation Method of permanently restructuring curled or frizzy hair
WO2001000144A2 (fr) * 1999-06-30 2001-01-04 Lion Corporation Composition capillaire
WO2004069214A1 (fr) * 2003-02-10 2004-08-19 Beebong Fine Co., Ltd. Composition et procede de fabrication d'un catalyseur d'autodiagnostic et de reduction pour produit a permanente et produit a defrisage
WO2005020943A1 (fr) * 2003-08-23 2005-03-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Procede pour lisser des fibres keratiniques
US20060013795A1 (en) * 2002-06-20 2006-01-19 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Composition for hair treatment
US20060024257A1 (en) * 2004-07-30 2006-02-02 Chang Tae S Self-molding permanent agent and method for proceeding free-rod and free-band type permanent
US20060222618A1 (en) * 2005-04-01 2006-10-05 Milbon Co., Ltd. Reducing agent for straightening curly hair and process for straightening curly hair
EP2022535A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition pour la mise en forme permanente des cheveux humains

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US4630621A (en) * 1985-09-27 1986-12-23 Susanne Pontani Method and composition for simultaneously permanently waving and dyeing human hair
DE3929973A1 (de) 1989-09-08 1991-03-14 Henkel Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
DE19710154C2 (de) 1997-03-12 1999-04-01 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Dialkylcarbonaten
US6572843B1 (en) * 1998-12-01 2003-06-03 Novozymes, A/S Method for treating hair

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5520909A (en) * 1994-12-06 1996-05-28 Conair Corporation Method of permanently restructuring curled or frizzy hair
WO2001000144A2 (fr) * 1999-06-30 2001-01-04 Lion Corporation Composition capillaire
US20060013795A1 (en) * 2002-06-20 2006-01-19 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Composition for hair treatment
WO2004069214A1 (fr) * 2003-02-10 2004-08-19 Beebong Fine Co., Ltd. Composition et procede de fabrication d'un catalyseur d'autodiagnostic et de reduction pour produit a permanente et produit a defrisage
WO2005020943A1 (fr) * 2003-08-23 2005-03-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Procede pour lisser des fibres keratiniques
US20060024257A1 (en) * 2004-07-30 2006-02-02 Chang Tae S Self-molding permanent agent and method for proceeding free-rod and free-band type permanent
US20060222618A1 (en) * 2005-04-01 2006-10-05 Milbon Co., Ltd. Reducing agent for straightening curly hair and process for straightening curly hair
EP2022535A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition pour la mise en forme permanente des cheveux humains

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"Römpp-Lexikon Chemie", 1997, GEORG THIEME VERLAG STUTTGART, pages: 1764
See also references of EP2654702A1 *

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