WO2012167906A2 - Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques aux propriétés rhéologiques améliorées - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques aux propriétés rhéologiques améliorées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012167906A2
WO2012167906A2 PCT/EP2012/002375 EP2012002375W WO2012167906A2 WO 2012167906 A2 WO2012167906 A2 WO 2012167906A2 EP 2012002375 W EP2012002375 W EP 2012002375W WO 2012167906 A2 WO2012167906 A2 WO 2012167906A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
stearate
polyglyceryl
preparation
preparations
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2012/002375
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012167906A3 (fr
Inventor
Stefanie Von Thaden
Manuela Köhler
Rainer Kröpke
Jens Nielsen
Julia Pruns
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2012167906A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012167906A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2012167906A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012167906A3/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system

Definitions

  • the invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations with improved rheological properties containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
  • Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
  • hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion W / O emulsion, eg butter
  • W / O emulsion eg butter
  • the prior art knows several important factors that have a positive influence on the stability and rheology of emulsions.
  • Emulsions generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents for their formation and stabilization to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate polyglyceryl-10-stearate
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
  • PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
  • JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
  • WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
  • DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
  • DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations as an emulsifier, without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • Cosmetic formulations based on O / W emulsion or hydrodispersion always have a pseudoplastic flow behavior with more or less pronounced thixotropy.
  • the strength and type of pseudoplasticity as well as the thixotropy also determines the distribution ability on the skin and the skin feeling after creaming.
  • O / W formulations can build up a structure on the skin. It is therefore necessary that preparations allow easy distribution on the skin.
  • O / W emulsions with a low viscosity which have a storage stability, as required for marketable products, are very complicated to formulate according to the prior art. Accordingly, the supply of such formulations is extremely low. However, such formulations could offer the consumer previously unrecognized cosmetic benefits.
  • Cosmetic preparations must be stable for at least 30 months, preferably in all climates.
  • Viscosity stability over the widest possible temperature range is therefore another important aspect which the cosmetic specialist must consider when developing cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate formulations have viscosity stability over a broad temperature range and improved
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising less than 6 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate, preferably in particular in the range of 0.1 to 2.8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the viscosity stability of the preparation according to the invention is reflected in a maximum increase in viscosity of 20% at a temperature reduction of + 25 e C to a maximum of -20 ° C.
  • Viscosity stability in the context of this invention is used when the change in viscosity, measured at a temperature X in ° C., does not deviate more than 20% from the initial value after 0 or 1 day after production of the preparation.
  • O / W emulsion preparations 1, 3, 4 and 5 consisting of
  • Cyclic silicone oil 0 3 0 0
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products without compromising stability.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • FIGS. 2 and 3 show the viscosity curves of two preparations according to Table 1 below.
  • Figure 2 shows the course of the viscosity of the preparation according to the invention with PG-10-stearate
  • Figure 3 shows the course of a
  • PG-10 stearate is an emulsifier used for ice cream, that is, formulations that are very liquid at room temperature and experience the period of their stability in the solid form. Thus, it was anticipated that an emulsion of PG-10 stearate would not be long-term stable at temperatures above 30 ° C.
  • alcohol is often formulated to give a freshness impression. Alcohol also destabilizes an emulsion.
  • a requirement of cosmetic preparations is that a light distribution on the skin and, at the same time, good emptying of the packaging take place.
  • Viscosity properties of the preparations according to the invention have been solved PG-10 stearate.
  • Preparation A represents the emulsion preparation according to the invention, B a
  • the packaging used was a 100 ml glass bottle with an opening of 13 mm in diameter.
  • the packaging is then completely emptied. After waiting for 24 hours, the packaging is emptied again.
  • the thus emptied packaging system is weighed.
  • the weight of the remaining product in the packaging is calculated as well as a
  • Table 3 Preparation B, viscosity 1200 mPas (25 ° C)
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished by high temperature stability and low viscosity increase at low temperatures.
  • the preparations according to the invention have a maximum viscosity increase of 20% to -20 ° C. (in relation to the viscosity value at 25 ° C.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is therefore used in cosmetic or dermatological
  • Emulsion stabilizer used for viscosity stabilization and the formulation undergoes a viscosity increase of not more than 20% with temperature changes from + 25 to -20 ° C.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate in cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations for improved emptying of packaging materials is thus predestined.
  • Emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
  • Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was with a
  • Consistency determining device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087) determined.
  • the value of the consistency of the formulas A and B to be compared is plotted after one day (left) and after 30 days (right).
  • Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
  • the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
  • a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides, Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol diste
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, ⁇ - and Ca-stearoyl-2-lactyl lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate Isolan GPS
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34
  • polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
  • propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
  • propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester rapeseed lecithin
  • sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
  • Sorbitan monolaurate sorbate 20
  • sorbitan di-citrate sorbitan butucate
  • Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
  • Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
  • Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention also contain no parabens,
  • DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
  • formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
  • Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
  • perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
  • Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
  • Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
  • Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
  • Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.
  • Preferred auxiliaries are preferably to be selected from the group acetyl
  • Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Amaranthus Extract, Andrographolide, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Essential Oils, Avena Aqua, BGT, Biosaccharides Gum 3, Butyl Hydroquinone, Cassia Alata,
  • Lagerstroemia Indica Extract Lauryl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Linseed Acid, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Methylserine, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, Mineral Water, Nylon-66, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, PEG / PPG-14 / 7 Dimethyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2 Stearyl Ether, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, PEG-24 Cetyl Ether, PEG-24 Cholesteryl Ether, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Phytol , Pisces Collagen, Platanus Occidentalis, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates,
  • Polycaprolactone Polyester-5, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract, Pyrus Malus Water, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract, Shorea Robusta Butter, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Succinoglycan, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane .
  • Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Thiodipropionic Acid, Thiotaurines, Tocopheryl Glucosides, Tri C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Trilon B, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid and / or Xymenynic Acid.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O can also stand for silicone oils.
  • the preparation is based on a O / W emulsion or
  • Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
  • This process is called hot / hot process.
  • Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
  • thermally labile active substances for example natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or else individual perfume ingredients.
  • Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
  • the following examples illustrate the preparations according to the invention. The stated proportions are by weight, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus) - - - - - 2

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques se présentant sous forme d'émulsions et contenant du polyglycéryl-10-stéarate, la viscosité desdites compositions étant stable dans une large plage de températures.
PCT/EP2012/002375 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques aux propriétés rhéologiques améliorées Ceased WO2012167906A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110077028 DE102011077028A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit verbesserten rheologischen Eigenschaften
DE102011077028.3 2011-06-07

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WO2012167906A2 true WO2012167906A2 (fr) 2012-12-13
WO2012167906A3 WO2012167906A3 (fr) 2014-01-30

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DE102013213174A1 (de) * 2013-07-04 2015-01-08 Beiersdorf Ag Octocrylenfreies Sonnenschutzmittel
CN118304196A (zh) * 2024-03-25 2024-07-09 广州市泛海精细化工有限公司 含聚甘油-3二硬脂酸酯的复合乳化剂及在护肤品中的应用
EP3843693B1 (fr) 2018-08-28 2025-06-11 Beiersdorf AG Émulsion cosmétique sans acrylate
EP3843691B1 (fr) 2018-08-28 2025-06-18 Beiersdorf AG Émulsion cosmétique sans acrylate

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US20170312192A1 (en) 2014-09-26 2017-11-02 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. O/w emulsions
DE102014220449A1 (de) 2014-10-09 2016-04-14 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetisches Spray
DE102015219008A1 (de) * 2015-10-01 2017-04-06 Beiersdorf Ag Sonnenschutzmittel mit reduzierter Textilverfleckung durch 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan
DE102020003488A1 (de) 2020-06-10 2021-12-16 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Kosmetikum mit hoher Restentleerung der Zubereitung aus dem Packmittel

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