WO2013093802A2 - Composition comprenant une résine de polyamide, un système gélifiant, une huile polaire et une huile apolaire - Google Patents

Composition comprenant une résine de polyamide, un système gélifiant, une huile polaire et une huile apolaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013093802A2
WO2013093802A2 PCT/IB2012/057483 IB2012057483W WO2013093802A2 WO 2013093802 A2 WO2013093802 A2 WO 2013093802A2 IB 2012057483 W IB2012057483 W IB 2012057483W WO 2013093802 A2 WO2013093802 A2 WO 2013093802A2
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
chosen
composition according
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WO2013093802A3 (fr
Inventor
Liana Esposito
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from FR1162055A external-priority patent/FR2984139B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1162054A external-priority patent/FR2984150B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2013093802A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013093802A2/fr
Publication of WO2013093802A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013093802A3/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0233—Distinct layers, e.g. core/shell sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips generally contain one or more fatty substances structured with a "structuring” or “gelling” agent, conventionally a wax or a polymer, to improve the stiffness of the compositions and especially to obtain solid compositions, preferably in the form of sticks, which remain stable in this state and in particular which do not exude, especially at room temperature.
  • a "structuring” or “gelling” agent conventionally a wax or a polymer
  • the galenical form of these compositions must, on the one hand, satisfy mechanical requirements in order to ensure the glidance and wear properties of the stick during application and to prevent it from breaking, and, on the other hand, satisfy transfer qualities so as to ensure comfortable application and also a sufficient and good-quality deposit on the lips.
  • compositions containing waxes are not always satisfactory, especially in terms of gloss and of gloss remanence.
  • users note that these compositions often lead to a thick, non-glidant deposit, and to a waxy feel that may be attributed to recrystallization of the waxes on contact with the lips.
  • the cosmetic compositions targeted by the present invention are more particularly solid makeup and/or care compositions intended to be applied to keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, and may be formulated especially as lipsticks, lip balms, lip pencils, solid foundations, especially cast in stick or dish form, concealer products, skin-coloring products, eye makeup products, for instance eyeliners, in particular in pencil form, and mascaras, especially in cake form, or alternatively eyeshadows.
  • the underlying problem of the present invention was that of obtaining an anhydrous and transparent composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, which is free of waxes, so as not to have the drawbacks mentioned above associated with wax-based compositions.
  • the inventors have solved this problem by means of the composition according to the present invention.
  • a subject of the present invention is a transparent, anhydrous, solid composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is a transparent, anhydrous and solid composition comprising:
  • - at least one gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamides bearing a linear alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -Ce)dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cs to C 22 alkyl chain, with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamides bearing a branched alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -C 6 )dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cs to C 22 alkyl chain, and preferably with a solvent that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents,
  • - at least one apolar nonvolatile oil in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is a transparent, anhydrous, solid composition
  • a transparent, anhydrous, solid composition comprising:
  • a fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based polar nonvolatile oil chosen from alcohol oils
  • a gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamides bearing a linear alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -Ce)dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cs to C 22 alkyl chain, with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamides bearing a branched alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -C 6 )dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cs to C 22 alkyl chain,
  • composition the fatty phase/gelling system weight ratio is less than 60 and preferably less than 50.
  • a subject of the present invention is a process for caring for and/or making up skin and/or the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or the lips.
  • a subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips and especially as a lipstick, in particular for improving the comfort of keratin materials.
  • compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being both solid and transparent.
  • the deposit obtained is fine and glossy, and has a soft, creamy texture similar to that of a balm.
  • solid composition means the form of the composition at 20°C, and in particular the term “solid” means a composition whose hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm -1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.
  • the hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.
  • composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco- Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).
  • the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40 Nm "1 and preferably greater than 50 Nm "1 .
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm "1 , especially less than 400 Nm "1 and preferably less than 300 Nm "1 .
  • these compositions have a shear value ranging from 80 to 120 and preferably from 90 to 120 gF.
  • these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.
  • the term "transparent composition” means a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without scattering it, i.e. a composition in which the scattering angle of the light is less than 5° and is better still about 0°.
  • the transparent composition may transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60% and especially at least 70% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.
  • the transmission measurement is made with a Cary 300 Scan UV-visible spectrophotometer from the company Varian, according to the following protocol:
  • composition is poured into a square-sided spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm;
  • the sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically- regulated chamber at 20°C for 24 hours;
  • the light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then measured on the spectrophotometer by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode;
  • the percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at a wavelength of 750 nm is then determined.
  • the transparent compositions when they are placed 0.01 m in front of a black line 2 mm thick in diameter drawn on a sheet of white paper, allow this line to be seen; in contrast, an opaque composition, i.e. a non-transparent composition, does not allow the line to be seen.
  • the composition according to the invention is colorless.
  • the term "colorless composition” means that the composition absorbs light outside the visible range, i.e. outside the range of wavelengths between 400 and 700 nm and advantageously between 380 and 780 nm.
  • the composition may also be slightly colored, and in this case it contains a maximum of 1%, preferably less than 0.5% and more preferentially less than 0.2% by weight of at least one organic dyestuff relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the dyestuff is preferably chosen from organic dyestuffs and metal oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the said organic dyestuff may be chosen from organic pigments.
  • the organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
  • D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No.
  • D&C Green No. 5 D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No.
  • organic dyestuffs are chosen from the following liposoluble dyes: Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
  • the dyestuff may also contain a pulverulent material that is surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent chosen from pigments and/or nacres.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to color the composition.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, produced especially by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
  • pigments with an effect such as particles comprising a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate optionally being coated with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral substrate for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas
  • metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nacreous pigments can be chosen from white nacreous pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or with chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • Interference pigments especially liquid-crystal or multilayer interference pigments, may also be used.
  • the dyestuffs in particular the pigments treated with a hydrophobic agent, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs surface- treated with a hydrophobic agent may constitute from 10% to 100% by weight of all of the dyestuffs.
  • nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the first composition
  • composition according to the invention is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2% and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
  • composition according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists essentially of, a fatty phase and of agents for structuring said fatty phase.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil and at least one apolar nonvolatile oil in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil chosen from alcohol oils.
  • the fatty phase consists of all of the fatty substances and contains at least one oil.
  • oil means a water-immiscible nonaqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on keratin materials, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • a nonvolatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and fluoro oils.
  • the composition does not comprise any nonvolatile silicone oil(s).
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • said nonvolatile polar oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6 a , is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;
  • RCOOR' hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate;
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms which are preferably branched, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol;
  • C12-C22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol)
  • nonvolatile oils of high molecular mass for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
  • ester oils such as:
  • esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer; mention may be made especially of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® ,
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of Cs to C34, especially C 12 to C22, in particular C 16 to C20 and more particularly C 18 .
  • the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived.
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a carboxylic acid may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described previously, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.
  • diol dimer esters As illustrations of diol dimer esters, mention may be made especially of esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® .
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based polar oils, preferably chosen from ester oils and alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile ester oil, preferably with a molecular weight of greater than 650 g/mol, preferably chosen from aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate.
  • ester oils are chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, tridecyl trimellitate and diisostearyl malate.
  • the alcohol oils are chosen from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol.
  • the polar nonvolatile oil is isostearyl alcohol.
  • isostearyl alcohol makes it possible to lower the melting point of the gelling system and consequently makes it possible to prepare the compositions according to the invention at a lower temperature.
  • the hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile polar oil is present in a total content of between 1% and 60%.
  • the hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile polar oil is present in a total content of between 3% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 40%, more preferably between 7% and 20% and even more preferably between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile polar oil is chosen from fatty monoalcohol or monohydroxylated alcohol oils containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • octyldodecanol and/or isostearyl alcohol are present in a total content of between 3% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 40% and more preferably between 7% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • octyldodecanol and/or isostearyl alcohol are present in a total content of between 8% and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • isostearyl alcohol is present in a total content of between 3% and 50%) by weight, preferably between 5% and 40%>, more preferably between 7% and 20%> and even more preferably between 8% and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the nonvolatile oil may also be a fluoro oil.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow® products sold by the company Creations Couliv.
  • the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises a hydrocarbon- based apolar oil, which is preferably nonvolatile.
  • a hydrocarbon- based apolar oil which is preferably nonvolatile.
  • the composition advantageously comprises less than 35%, preferably less than 22% and more preferably less than 20% by weight of apolar nonvolatile oil(s), which are preferably hydrocarbon-based, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises from 1% to 34.5% by weight of apolar nonvolatile oil(s), which are preferably hydrocarbon-based, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • ⁇ ⁇ ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 6 h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 6 h , 6o and 6 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based ester oil means a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising at least one ester group.
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is isoeicosane.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of hydrogenated polydecenes.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 7% and more preferably at least 10% by weight of apolar nonvolatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil (or nonaqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1 ,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
  • the composition according to the invention contains at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight and preferably 90% by weight of nonvolatile oil relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention contains at least
  • composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% and better still less than 0.1% of wax, and even better still is totally free of wax. The reason for this is that such waxes would risk compromising the transparent appearance that is advantageously sought for a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the wax under consideration is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes have a heat of fusion AHf of greater than or equal to 70
  • the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, which is visible by X-ray observation.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute
  • a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain at least one "pasty fatty substance".
  • pasty fatty substance refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the pasty fatty substances have an end melting point of less than
  • the pasty fatty substances have a hardness of less than or equal to 6
  • the pasty fatty substances have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal organization, which is visible by X-ray observation.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C and withdrawn with magnetic stirring using a spatula that is also heated, is placed in a hermetic aluminum capsule, or a crucible. Two tests are performed to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
  • the measurements are performed on the abovementioned calorimeter.
  • the oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is performed by an RCS 90 heat exchanger.
  • the sample is then subjected to the following protocol: it is first placed at a temperature of 20°C, and then subjected to a first temperature rise passing from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, then is cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of paste or wax as a function of the temperature is measured.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the end melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the abovementioned colorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C/minute, according to standard ISO 1 1357-3 : 1999.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50%> to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
  • the pasty fatty substance is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter, which is filled to about 75% of its height.
  • the mold is placed in a Votsch VC 0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, and then subjected to a temperature rise ranging from 0°C to 20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
  • the compression force measurement is taken using a ⁇ / ⁇ 2 ⁇ texturometer from Swantech.
  • the spindle used is chosen according to the texture:
  • the measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum force value reached; a second “relaxation” step where the spindle remains at this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
  • the hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance.
  • the hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
  • the composition comprises at least one polyamide resin and at least one gelling system comprising at least two lipophilic gelling agents, also known as "organogelling agents", as agents for structuring the fatty phase.
  • the amount of structuring agents, comprising the polyamide resin and the gelling system is between 17% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an "organogelling agent” is defined as comprising an organic compound whose molecules may be capable of establishing, between themselves, at least one physical interaction leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a three-dimensional macromolecular network that may be responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (caused by the stacking or aggregation of organogelling molecules), which immobilizes the molecules of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the interconnected fibrils have variable sizes that may range from a few nanometers up to 1 ⁇ or even several micrometers. These fibrils may occasionally combine to form strips or columns.
  • gelation means structuring or, more generally, thickening of the medium, which may lead according to the invention to a fluid to pasty or even solid consistency.
  • this gelation is reversible under the action of an external stimulus such as the temperature.
  • the physical interactions are of diverse nature but may include co- crystallization. These physical interactions are, for example, interactions chosen from self- complementary hydrogen interactions, ⁇ interactions between unsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives. The establishment of these interactions may often be promoted by the architecture of the molecule, for example by nuclei, unsaturations and the presence of asymmetric carbon. In general, each molecule of an organogelling agent can establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule.
  • the molecules of the organic gelling agent according to the invention may comprise at least one group that is capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, for example at least two groups that are capable of establishing hydrogen bonds; at least one aromatic nucleus, for example at least two aromatic nuclei; at least one bond with ethylenic unsaturation; and/or at least one asymmetric carbon.
  • the groups that are capable of forming a hydrogen bond may be chosen, for example, from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups.
  • the organogelling agents of the invention may be solid or liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned are combinations of at least one low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamide, chosen especially from (C 2 - C 6 )dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cs to C 22 alkyl chain such as lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl lauroyl glutamide), with at least one low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamide containing a branched alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -C6)dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cs to C 22 alkyl chain such as N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with
  • the ratio of the lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N- acylglutamides bearing a linear alkyl chain/lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N- acylglutamides bearing a branched alkyl chain is between 1.5 and 5 and preferably between 1.7 and 5.
  • the dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear alkyl chain is used in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.5% to 5% and more preferably 1.0% to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • the dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a branched alkyl chain is used in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.5% to 5% and more preferably 1.0% to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. More preferably, the total amount of the lipophilic gelling agents of low molecular weight N-acylglutamic acid diamide type is preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • Lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide is sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name GP-1, of INCI name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, and N-2- ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by the company Ajinomoto under the name EB-21 , of INCI name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide.
  • GP-1 of INCI name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
  • N-2- ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by the company Ajinomoto under the name EB-21 , of INCI name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide.
  • the solvent that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the gelling agents is a protic solvent preferentially chosen, for example, from alcohols, monoalcohols, dialcohols, acids and esters.
  • the solvent that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the lipophilic gelling agents is chosen from C2-C5 glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycols and pentene glycols.
  • This solvent may also be chosen from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol.
  • the amount of solvents capable of forming hydrogen bonds ranges from 3%) to 50%) by weight, preferably between 5% and 40%> and more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • the solvent is a fatty alcohol, particularly chosen from fatty alcohols with a fatty chain length of between 12 and 28 carbon atoms, preferentially between 14 and 22 and better still between 16 and 20 carbon atoms.
  • the solvent is a branched fatty-chain alcohol.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one other lipophilic gelling agent.
  • This other lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, especially those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL ® by the company Chiba Flour; hydroxylated fatty acids, such as hydroxystearic acid, glyceryl esters such as glyceryl behenate/isostearate/eicosadioate.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyamide resin chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.
  • polymer means a compound containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and better still ten repeating units.
  • polyamide means a compound containing at least two repeating amide units, preferably at least three repeating amide units and better still ten repeating amide units.
  • hydrocarbon-based polyamide means a polyamide formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the term “functionalized chains” means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.
  • this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol), in particular less than 50 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol) and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.
  • the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):
  • X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched C8 to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;
  • the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la) X- -C— R ⁇ C— NH-R ⁇ NH- ⁇ R2,— C-X
  • X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 2 s-C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;
  • X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 , preferably Cs to C 2 o, preferably C 14 to C 2 o and more preferentially C 14 to C 18 and better still Ci8 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 2 s-C 42 diacid dimer residue, preferably a dilinoleic acid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical, and n is between 2 and 5 and preferably between 3 and 4; mention may be made of the compound of formula (la) whose INCI name is bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid/ethylenediamine copolymer.
  • amide-terminated polyamide As a specific example of an amide-terminated polyamide that may be used, mention may be made of the compound Haimalate PAM sold by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which is in combination with diisostearyl malate and whose INCI name is diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid/ethylenediamine copolymer.
  • the polyamide is an amide ester-terminated polyamide of formula (lb)
  • X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 2 s-C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5.
  • Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different
  • R 2 is a C 2 s-C 42 diacid dimer residue
  • R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical
  • n is between 2 and 5.
  • X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer. They are sold, respectively, in the form of a gel containing 80% active material in a mineral oil and at 100% active material.
  • the total amount of polyamide resin in the compositions used according to the invention is between 0.1 % and 50%> by weight, preferably between 2% and 45%) by weight, or better still between 5% and 40% by weight and preferably between 10% and 25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (limits inclusive).
  • the total amount of structuring agents as defined previously present in the compositions used according to the invention is between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 2% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40% and advantageously between 12% and 30% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the polyamide is a silicone polyamide.
  • the silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone polyamides may be more particularly polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
  • Cio aryl groups optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C 4 alkyl groups,
  • the groups X which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms;
  • Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to Cs cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, C 5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C 3 alkyl, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl groups, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
  • T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
  • R 8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
  • 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are methyl groups.
  • Y can represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer.
  • Y represents a group chosen from:
  • Ci to C 20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups
  • Ci to C 20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to Cs cycloalkane, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl groups,
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , T and m are as defined above.
  • X 1 -(CH 2 )2- corresponds to X defined above and Y, R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 and m are as defined above;
  • m is in the range from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and especially from 50 to 200, and n is in particular in the range from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25,
  • X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms, and
  • Y is preferably an alkylene chain that is linear or branched, or which may comprise rings and/or unsaturations, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms.
  • the alkylene group representing X or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following members:
  • alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group consisting of:
  • a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C 3 alkyl groups,
  • Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group a Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl group.
  • Y may also represent:
  • R represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula:
  • a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10
  • R 13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 .
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched Ci to C 4 o alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , nC 3 H 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
  • the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV).
  • the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide corresponding to formula (V):
  • the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the units may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y.
  • the polymer may correspond to formula VI: NH Y NH-L
  • R 4 to R 7 , X, Y, m l s m 2 , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different than Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y.
  • the various units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the silicone polyamide may also consist of a grafted copolymer.
  • the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups.
  • Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
  • the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula (VII):
  • p is in the range from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to 7,
  • R 14 to R 21 are methyl groups
  • T corresponds to one of the following formulae:
  • R 22 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R 4 to R 7 ,
  • R , R Z4 and R" are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably corresponds to the formula:
  • R , R and R representing -CH 2 -CH 2 -
  • mi and m 2 are in the range from 15 to 500 and better still from 15 to 45, Xi and X 2 represent -(CH 2 ) 10 -, and
  • the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the side or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
  • a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units may be used.
  • the polyamide-silicone units may be located at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
  • the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III.
  • the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 represent methyl groups, one from among X and Y represents an alkylene group containing 6 carbon atoms and the other represents an alkylene group containing 11 carbon atoms.
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, and n represents the degree of polymerization DP of the polymer.
  • silicone polyamides examples include the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer, i.e. Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymers.
  • composition used according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) with an m value of about 100.
  • the index "m” corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone part of the polymer.
  • the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear branched Ci to C40 alkyl group, preferably a group CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or isopropyl formula (III).
  • silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5 981 680.
  • silicone polyamide polymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100).
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • the silicone polyamide may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, better still ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a structuring polymer comprising at least one:
  • X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 2 8-C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, and (ii) a combination
  • acyl group comprises a linear Cs to C 22 alkyl chain, preferably N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide, and
  • acyl group comprises a branched Cs to C 22 alkyl chain, preferably N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide.
  • the structuring system comprises an amide-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is Diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid/ethylenediamine copolymer sold by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Haimalate PAM, and a combination of N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and of N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide.
  • the structuring system comprises an ester-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the name Uniclear 100 VG, and a combination of N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and of N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide.
  • the base of the composition according to the invention is solid, and the resulting composition is advantageously a cosmetic product, preferably a lipstick.
  • This product may be in the form of a stick or cast in a dish, for example. According to one preferred embodiment, it is a lipstick or a lip balm in stick form.
  • the fatty phase comprises less than 0.5% and better still less than 0.1% of nacres, and even better still is free of nacres. The reason for this is that such nacres would risk compromising the transparent appearance that is advantageously sought for a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite),
  • the fatty phase comprises less than 0.5% and better still less than 0.1% of fillers, and even better still is free of fillers. The reason for this is that such fillers would risk compromising the transparent appearance that is advantageously sought for a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallo graphic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-P-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any additional cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from sunscreens and film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may be advantageously used for making up the skin and/or the lips depending on the nature of the ingredients used.
  • the composition used according to the invention may be in the form of a solid foundation, a lipstick or lip paste, a lip balm, a concealer product, an eye contour product, an eyeshadow or a body makeup product.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lip makeup product such as a lipstick or a pencil, optionally having care or treating properties. It may be in the form of an anhydrous stick.
  • composition according to the invention may be obtained via the process comprising the following steps:
  • composition obtained is hot-cast, preferably at a temperature of between
  • a conditioning unit that is preferably a metal mold capable of giving it the final shape (for example as a stick), and the whole may be left to cool to room temperature or to -20°C, for example for 20 minutes to 1 hour.
  • the composition used according to the invention is in particular a lipstick.
  • composition according to the invention may also be used as a shell composition in a core-shell product.
  • the present invention is also directed toward a core-shell product comprising a first composition according to the invention forming the shell and a second composition, different from the first composition, comprising the core.
  • the core composition of the core-shell product comprises at least one oil.
  • the core composition may comprise at least one volatile oil.
  • the volatile oil may be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil or a fluoro oil.
  • the core composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other nonvolatile oil chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the core composition may also comprise at least one fatty substance that is not liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure, known as a solid fatty substance, chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances.
  • the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin.
  • a pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.
  • - polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, the ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio
  • Pentaerythrityl Ether 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil;
  • linear or branched oligomers which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
  • ⁇ oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups
  • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,
  • the pasty compound is preferably a polymer, especially a hydrocarbon-based polymer.
  • liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • esters the following are especially preferred:
  • - esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,
  • fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof for instance triglycerides of fatty acids, which are especially C 10 -C 18 , and partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol,
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • the waxes that may be used in the core composition are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes that are suitable for use in the core composition, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes (such as the wax sold under the reference Microwax HW by the company Paramelt), paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 by the company New Phase Technologies, and the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains are examples of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l- trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • silicone waxes C30-45 alkyl dimethicone
  • fluoro waxes C30-45 alkyl dimethicone
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
  • a wax that may be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K 82 H® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • the core composition comprises at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the core composition.
  • Structuring/thickening agent especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the core composition.
  • the core composition may comprise, besides the waxes that may be present, at least one structuring agent chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • structuring agent chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the core composition may comprise at least one gelling agent.
  • the gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.
  • the core comprises the same gelling system as the shell.
  • the core comprises at least one compound chosen from pasty fatty substances, waxes and fillers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the core comprises the same gelling system as the shell and at least one pasty fatty substance.
  • the core comprises at least 0.01% by weight and better still 0.1% by weight of dyestuff relative to the total weight of the composition, for example a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
  • the second composition i.e. the core composition, comprises a combination of at least one low molecular weight dialkyl N- acylglutamide bearing a linear alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -C 6 )dialkyl N- acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cs to C 22 alkyl chain such as lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl lauroyl glutamide), with at least one low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamide bearing a branched alkyl chain, chosen especially from (C 2 -Ce)dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cs to C 22 alkyl chain such as N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with a solvent that is capable of forming
  • the present invention is also directed toward a process for caring for and/or making up skin and/or the lips, in which said product is applied to the skin and/or the lips, and also to the use of said product for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips and in particular for moisturizing the skin and/or the lips, especially as a lipstick.
  • the examples that follow are given as nonlimiting illustrations of the present invention.
  • the percentages are weight percentages.
  • composition was obtained according to the following process.
  • phase A fatty phase and polyamide resin
  • phase B gelling agents and fatty substances
  • Phase B was introduced into the fatty phase A with magnetic stirring or Rayneri blending.
  • compositions obtained were then poured into a mold and left to cool in order to obtain sticks 12.7 mm in diameter.
  • the percentages are expressed by weight of active material.
  • Example 1 transparent stick
  • the stick obtained has a shear of 99.5 GF.
  • composition obtained is in the form of a stable stick, which does not break on application.
  • the application is comfortable (the product is glidant on application and deposits easily on the lips).
  • the deposit obtained is homogeneous, comfortable and has a satisfactory thickness and gloss.
  • Example 2 core-shell stick with a transparent shell and a white core
  • the stick was prepared using the composition below as core composition and the composition of Example 1 as shell composition:
  • the composition obtained is in the form of a stable stick, which does not break on application.
  • the application is comfortable (the product is glidant on application and deposits easily on the lips).
  • the deposit obtained is uniform, comfortable and has satisfactory gloss.
  • the texture is creamy.

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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition solide anhydre transparente, comprenant : au moins une résine de polyamide ; au moins un système gélifiant comprenant une association d'au moins un agent gélifiant lipophile choisi parmi les dialkyl-N-acylglutamides de faible masse moléculaire portant une chaîne alkyle linéaire, avec au moins un agent gélifiant lipophile choisi parmi les dialkyl-N-acylglutamides de faible masse moléculaire portant une chaîne alkyle ramifiée, et de préférence avec un solvant qui est apte à former des liaisons hydrogène avec ces deux agents gélifiants lipophiles de faible masse moléculaire ; et au moins une huile non volatile polaire ; au moins une huile non volatile apolaire à hauteur de moins de 35 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/IB2012/057483 2011-12-20 2012-12-19 Composition comprenant une résine de polyamide, un système gélifiant, une huile polaire et une huile apolaire Ceased WO2013093802A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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FR1162054 2011-12-20
FR1162055 2011-12-20
FR1162055A FR2984139B1 (fr) 2011-12-20 2011-12-20 Composition comprenant une resine polyamide, un systeme gelifiant, une huile polaire et une huile apolaire
FR1162054A FR2984150B1 (fr) 2011-12-20 2011-12-20 Composition cosmetique comprenant une resine polyamide et un systeme gelifiant

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US20180296460A1 (en) * 2017-04-13 2018-10-18 Eos Products, Llc Lip product formulation, applicator, and method for making same
JP2018188388A (ja) * 2017-05-02 2018-11-29 株式会社コーセー 油性ゲル組成物及び油性ゲル組成物の製造方法
CN110475542A (zh) * 2017-03-30 2019-11-19 高级醇工业株式会社 固体预混化妆料
WO2021132045A1 (fr) * 2019-12-24 2021-07-01 L'oreal Composition anhydre pour l'administration topique d'ingrédients actifs

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CN110475542A (zh) * 2017-03-30 2019-11-19 高级醇工业株式会社 固体预混化妆料
EP3603614A4 (fr) * 2017-03-30 2020-12-02 Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd. Préparation cosmétique prémélangée solide
US20180296460A1 (en) * 2017-04-13 2018-10-18 Eos Products, Llc Lip product formulation, applicator, and method for making same
CN108720238A (zh) * 2017-04-13 2018-11-02 伊欧诗产品有限公司 唇部产品配方、施用器和用于制备唇部产品的方法
JP2018188388A (ja) * 2017-05-02 2018-11-29 株式会社コーセー 油性ゲル組成物及び油性ゲル組成物の製造方法
WO2021132045A1 (fr) * 2019-12-24 2021-07-01 L'oreal Composition anhydre pour l'administration topique d'ingrédients actifs
JP2021104934A (ja) * 2019-12-24 2021-07-26 ロレアル 活性成分を局所送達するための無水組成物

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