WO2014120100A1 - Procédé de production assurant une stabilité dimensionnelle d'un tissu en laine et en laine mélangée - Google Patents

Procédé de production assurant une stabilité dimensionnelle d'un tissu en laine et en laine mélangée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014120100A1
WO2014120100A1 PCT/TR2013/000312 TR2013000312W WO2014120100A1 WO 2014120100 A1 WO2014120100 A1 WO 2014120100A1 TR 2013000312 W TR2013000312 W TR 2013000312W WO 2014120100 A1 WO2014120100 A1 WO 2014120100A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
wool
fabrics
production method
temperature
present
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/TR2013/000312
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English (en)
Inventor
Tahsin TEKOĞLU
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
GUEVEN BOYA APRE VE DOKUMA FABRIKALARI AS
Original Assignee
GUEVEN BOYA APRE VE DOKUMA FABRIKALARI AS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by GUEVEN BOYA APRE VE DOKUMA FABRIKALARI AS filed Critical GUEVEN BOYA APRE VE DOKUMA FABRIKALARI AS
Publication of WO2014120100A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014120100A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/32—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of open-width materials backwards and forwards between beaming rollers during treatment; Jiggers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D06C15/02—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics between co-operating press or calender rolls

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the wool/wool blend fabrics produced in the textile industry.
  • the present invention relates to the production method providing size stability of wool/wool blend fabrics by the effect of temperature, time and pressure.
  • the wool or wool blend fabrics of the prior art with varying size have some disadvantages.
  • One of these disadvantages is the shape deformations occurring in the appearance of the dress/clothing during the sewing of the clothing from respective fabrics in the apparel production stage of said type of fabrics and especially during the use of said clothing and after the dry cleaning or ironing thereof.
  • the wool or wool blend fabrics undergo size change in both the production and post-production utilization especially when said fabrics are exposed to steam and moisture. In this case, deformations occur in the respective fabric in apparel production stage as well as in the utilization stage.
  • Another disadvantage of the prior art wool or wool blend fabrics is the tests implemented before sewing for understanding the size change in sewing of each batch of fabrics due to the size change taking place in said fabrics.
  • the fabrics foreseen to change size in these tests can only be started to be sewn just after this stage.
  • the patterns are arranged for the batch of fabrics provided with calculation of the size change. After the arrangement of the patterns, cutting operation is carried out so as to correspond to the estimated shrinkage amount, resulting in wastage. Finally, the sewing of the fabrics contained in the respective batch is also performed according to the estimated size change.
  • Said apparel production stages are repeated for each batch due to the size change in the wool or wool blend fabrics. Namely, test is conducted again for each batch of fabrics. Cutting with wastage is performed with arranging and change the patterns again.
  • This situation makes the production of the respective wool or wool blend fabrics in the apparel production stage difficult and time consuming, requiring labor intensive processes.
  • the production of the respective fabrics is realized with low efficiency and performance due to the impossibility of repeatability. This, in turn, does not allow the respective fabrics to be produced in mass.
  • production being carried out as such increases the amount of labor and raw materials, as well as the energy consumption, and causes the costs associated with the apparel processes to be high.
  • the present invention is developed by being inspired by the existing situations and seeks to solve the above mentioned drawbacks.
  • the primary object of the present invention is to prevent size change in the wool or wool blend fabrics occurring during the apparel production stage or use.
  • the present invention is intended to reduce the costs incurring during obtaining the textile products such as clothing, etc. from wool or wool blend fabrics.
  • An object of the present invention is to prevent the defects resulting from the size change during the sewing of wool or wool blend fabrics.
  • Another object of the present invention is to eliminate the difficulties such as changing the patterns, etc. in the apparel production carried out with wool or wool blend fabrics.
  • the apparel sewing from the wool or wool blend fabrics can always be performed with a single pattern in an easy and long lasting manner.
  • the present invention is also intended for completing the apparel production stages of the wool or wool blend fabrics at a very short time. Thus, mass apparel production from the respective fabrics becomes possible. Another object of the present invention is to provide savings on labor and sewing time in the apparel production stage of the wool and wool blend fabrics.
  • Another object of the present invention is to increase the seller and consumer satisfaction in the products obtained from wool and wool blend fabrics.
  • the present invention in order to achieve the aforementioned objects, relates to a method providing size stability of the wool or wool blend fabrics in the textile industry, wherein it comprises the following process step:
  • Figure 1 A front view of the dyeing machine in which the production method according to the present invention is carried out.
  • Figure 2 A side view of the dyeing machine in which the production method
  • Figure 3 A flow chart showing the sequence of processes of the production method according to the present invention during the dyeing and finishing applications of the undyed fabrics.
  • Figure 4 A flow chart showing the sequence of processes of the production method according to the present invention during the finishing applications of the dyed fabrics. Scaling of drawings is not absolutely required and details which are not needed for understanding the present invention could have been neglected. Furthermore, the elements which are at least substantially identical or have at least substantially identical functions are indicated with the same number.
  • a conventional jigger dyeing machine (100) provided with a body (110) comprising the following main elements is used: steam pipes (112), water inlets (113), a motor (118), fabric winding rollers (114), a docking lever roller (115), a chemical preparation tank (116), a circulation pump (117), a roof coil (119) and cover (111).
  • Said machine (100) also comprises a temperature sensor (130) and a control panel (140).
  • a pressing roller (120) enabling the method eliminating the shrinkage problem of the wool or wool blend fabrics to be carried out is also disposed inside the body (110).
  • the production method providing the size stability of the wool and wool blend fabrics is carried out by means of the temperature sensor (130), control panel (140) and pressing roller (120) comprised in the machine (100).
  • FIGS 1 and 2 2 dimensional front and side views of the dyeing machine (100) in which the production method according to the present invention is carried out are illustrated, respectively.
  • the dyeing machine (100) in which the production method according to the present invention is carried out is a conventional jigger machine, wherein application of said method in any type of wet finishing machine comprising a temperature sensor (130), a control panel (140) and a pressing roller (120) is possible.
  • the body (1 10) is the main structure of the dyeing machine (100), wherein the other elements are mounted or interactively operated thereon.
  • the production method according to the present invention is carried out in said body (110).
  • the upper portion of the body (110) is closed with two covers (111). These covers (111) enable the formation of an enclosed environment inside said body (1 10). In addition, they enable the respective wool and wool blend fabrics to be loaded into or removed from the body (110). Said covers (111) can be bidirectionally opened and closed. Steam pipes (112) and water inlets (1 13) are disposed in the lower portion of the body (110).
  • the water required for the processes (dyeing/finishing processes, size stabilization (shrink proof) providing production method, etc.) carried out are taken into the body (110) through the water inlets (1 13).
  • the steam pipes (1 12) are mounted in the vertical axis on top of each other on both sides immediately below the water inlets. Said pipes (112) enable the steam providing directly and indirectly the heating required for the processes to be carried out (dyeing/finishing, size stabilization providing production method, etc.) to reach into the body (1 10).
  • Temperature is a very important parameter for the production method. Monitoring of this temperature is provided by means of the temperature sensor (130) mounted on the portion provided with the water inlets (113) and steam pipes (1 12) in the lower portion of the body (110).
  • Said sensor (130) is a pt100 type sensor, wherein it transmits the temperature values to the control panel (140) connected and interactively operating therewith by monitoring the temperature inside the body (1 10).
  • the temperature sensor (130) is an element employed for carrying out the production method according to the present invention. Said sensor (130) enables the monitoring and control of the temperature and heat values, which are important for the production method according to the present invention.
  • the fabric winding rollers (1 14) are symmetrically and mutually mounted in the portion close to the side walls in the middle portion of the body (110). Loading the wool or wool blend fabrics into the dyeing machine (100) is provided by means of said rollers (1 14).
  • the wet processes are carried out with passages inside the machine (100) by means of the transfer of the fabrics through in between said two winding rollers (1 14).
  • Each of said transfer processes is called a passage.
  • the respective fabrics are transferred from one fabric winding roller (114) to the other fabric winding roller (114) by passing through the liquid disposed in the lower portion of the body (110).
  • the number of passages is selected according to the characteristics of the process being carried out.
  • the docking lever roller (1 15) enable first the fabrics to be loaded onto the fabric winding rollers (114) and then the fabrics to be discharged therefrom after the process.
  • the movement of said docking lever (115) and fabric winding rollers (1 14) is provided by means of the motor (1 18) disposed on the side portion of the dyeing machine (100).
  • One pressing roller (120) is disposed connectedly inside the body (110) so as to apply pressure on one of said fabric winding rollers (1 14).
  • Said roller (120) is an element added to the dyeing machine (100) for the production method according to the present invention to be realized.
  • the function of the pressing roller (120) is to apply pressure on the fabrics during the application of the method providing size stability of the fabrics comprising wool. Therefore, the disulfide bonds comprised in the structure of the fabrics are broken by means of the pressure created on said fabrics being processed. Thus, these bonds cannot come together in the hot and cold environments; hence, shrinkage problem does not occur in the fabrics.
  • Said pressing roller (120) is connected to the control panel (140) and operates interactively with this element. Therefore, pressure application can be carried out so as to be in accordance with the time parameter settings entered into the control panel (140).
  • the pressing roller (120) bilaterally moves on the body (110) and has the ability to apply pressure when the respective fabrics are wound onto the two fabric winding rollers (114).
  • the roof coil (119) is disposed below the covers (1 11) in the upper portion of the body (110). Said coil (119) prevents the vapor condensation on the inner surface of the body (1 10) due to the temperature difference occurring during the processes being carried out and dripping thereof.
  • the circulation pump ( 17) is disposed next to the dyeing machine (100). The function thereof is to provide circulation of the water, dyestuff, chemicals inside the dyeing machine (100). Thus, further penetration of said substances into the respective fabrics is provided by the continuous circulation thereof.
  • the chemical preparation tank (116) is also disposed next to the dyeing machine (100). The function thereof is to enable preparation of the chemicals and dyestuff to be delivered into the respective dyeing machine (100) according to the finishing process to be carried out (shrink proof process, dyeing, etc.) and delivery thereof into the machine (100) after being prepared.
  • the control panel (140) is the brain of the respective dyeing machine (100), wherein it is disposed immediately outside said machine (100). Setting parameters such as time, temperature, etc. of the production method being realized in the respective dyeing machine (100) are entered into said element.
  • the panel (140) carries out the execution of the production method according to the entered setting parameters.
  • the temperature sensor (130) helps the panel (140) to monitor the temperature and the pressing roller (120) helps said panel (140) in the pressure application.
  • the setting parameters such as time, temperature, etc. of the production method to be carried out are entered into the control panel (140).
  • the temperature parameter is monitored by means of the interaction of the temperature sensor (130).
  • the timer disposed inside the programmer (140) monitors the time parameter.
  • the parameters of time, temperature and pressure rate to be applied by the pressing roller (120) are determined according to the wool comprised in the fabric and the color tone of said fabric (dark, medium, light).
  • Table 1 The parameters of the method providing size stabilization of fabric comprising wool
  • the water inside the dyeing machine (100) is heated according to the type of the respective wool or wool blend fabrics being processed by means of the steam provided through the steam pipes (112) in accordance with the temperature parameter entered into the programmer (140).
  • the compliance of the heated water and ambient temperature is monitored by means of the pt100 temperature sensor (130).
  • the temperature sensor (130) transmits the temperature values being monitored to the programmer (140).
  • the programmer (140) compares the instantly transmitted temperature values to the temperature values entered thereinto.
  • the other step of the production method according to the present invention is executed.
  • the temperature control is operated, as well as the pressing roller (120) being actuated.
  • the pressing roller (120) creates pressure on the wool or wool blend fabrics disposed on the fabric winding roller (114) by contacting therewith.
  • a pressure value of 2.5 bars is applied on the fabric by means of the pressing roller (120).
  • the time parameter is monitored by means of the timer disposed in the structure of the programmer (140).
  • the time parameter is determined in accordance with the fiber type and loading amount of the fabrics being processed.
  • Wool is a natural animal protein fiber.
  • the protein substances forming the wool are referred to as keratins.
  • Carbon (C), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), hydrogen (H) and sulfur (S) atoms are provided in the structure of keratin.
  • the percentage of said atoms in keratin is as follows:
  • bonds are already formed between the aforementioned atoms contained in the keratin. These bonds are disulfide (cystine) bonds, salt bonds, and hydrogen bonds. Cystine containing disulfide groups can be present as a diamine dicarboxylic acid in two separate macropeptide chains by forming peptide bonds. In this case, the two macropeptide chains are covalently bonded over a disulfide bridge.
  • bonds are disulfide (cystine) bonds, salt bonds, and hydrogen bonds.
  • Cystine containing disulfide groups can be present as a diamine dicarboxylic acid in two separate macropeptide chains by forming peptide bonds. In this case, the two macropeptide chains are covalently bonded over a disulfide bridge.
  • Keratin forming the wool comprising the aforementioned atoms and bonds shows different interactions in cold or hot media.
  • the hydrogen (H) bridges and salt bods between the macromolecules partially break by the effect of cold water.
  • wool fibers swell and stretch more in the acidic media:
  • the hydrogen (H) bridges and salt bonds as well as a certain amount of disulfide (cysteine) bonds comprised in the structure of the wool also break in the case where long duration processing with hot water is carried out.
  • the time, temperature and pressing parameters forming the basis of the production method according to the present invention are applied for each type of fabric as in the production method according to the present invention.
  • different size shrinkage values encountered in the wool or wool blend fabrics are zeroed by means of the applied production method.
  • Appropriate program is established by determining the extent and manner of the application of the three parameters of the production method according to the present invention according to the content and weaving characteristics of the wool forming the respective fabric.
  • the established program is entered into the programmer (140) and the production method is carried out in any wet finishing machine.
  • the production method successfully providing solutions to the technical problems zeros and eliminates the size change frequently encountered in the wool/wool blend fabrics produced in the textile sector.
  • high efficiency and performance in the operations of the apparel production stage of the respective fabrics are provided.
  • the time increases as the wool content of the fabrics increases. Similarly, the time also increases as the loading amount of the machine increases. The temperature value decreases for maintaining the dyeing fastness towards the darker colors and thus, the time is prolonged.
  • the method according to the present invention can be applied in any type of wet finishing machine where temperature, time and pressing control can be provided.
  • Figures 3 and 4 a flow chart showing the sequence of processes of the production method according to the present invention during the dyeing and finishing applications of the undyed and dyed fabrics are illustrated, respectively.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de production assurant une stabilité dimensionnelle d'un tissu en laine/laine mélangée. En particulier, la présente invention concerne un procédé assurant la stabilité dimensionnelle de ce tissu en laine ou en laine mélangée dans l'industrie du textile. Ce procédé comprend les étapes suivantes consistant à : appliquer une force au moyen d'un cylindre presseur sur ledit tissu à des valeurs de température et de temps variant en fonction de la teneur en laine, du ton et de la quantité de chargement dudit tissu, et permettre aux liaisons disulfure d'être rompues dans un bain d'eau disposé à l'intérieur d'une machine d'apprêt mouillé pourvue d'une commande de la température, du temps et de la pression.
PCT/TR2013/000312 2013-01-29 2013-09-30 Procédé de production assurant une stabilité dimensionnelle d'un tissu en laine et en laine mélangée Ceased WO2014120100A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
TR2013/01092 2013-01-29
TR201301092 2013-01-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2014120100A1 true WO2014120100A1 (fr) 2014-08-07

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/TR2013/000312 Ceased WO2014120100A1 (fr) 2013-01-29 2013-09-30 Procédé de production assurant une stabilité dimensionnelle d'un tissu en laine et en laine mélangée

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Country Link
WO (1) WO2014120100A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105088503A (zh) * 2015-07-08 2015-11-25 浙江三十秋服饰有限公司 薄型混纺针织毛衫及防缩抗起球处理方法

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1064982A (en) * 1962-10-15 1967-04-12 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for modifying the characteristics of structures containing keratin fibres and product thereof
GB1181373A (en) * 1966-03-14 1970-02-18 Deering Milliken Res Corp Improvements in the Treatment of Keratinous Fibre Fabrics
US3497310A (en) * 1965-11-19 1970-02-24 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for durably securing fabric in a desired configuration
EP1164219A1 (fr) * 2000-06-15 2001-12-19 Sumitomo Corporation Procédé de fabrication de tissus de laine lavables
US20060096037A1 (en) * 2003-02-06 2006-05-11 Massimo Guarducci Method for preventing the shrinkage of woolen or wool blend fabrics

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1064982A (en) * 1962-10-15 1967-04-12 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for modifying the characteristics of structures containing keratin fibres and product thereof
US3497310A (en) * 1965-11-19 1970-02-24 Deering Milliken Res Corp Process for durably securing fabric in a desired configuration
GB1181373A (en) * 1966-03-14 1970-02-18 Deering Milliken Res Corp Improvements in the Treatment of Keratinous Fibre Fabrics
EP1164219A1 (fr) * 2000-06-15 2001-12-19 Sumitomo Corporation Procédé de fabrication de tissus de laine lavables
US20060096037A1 (en) * 2003-02-06 2006-05-11 Massimo Guarducci Method for preventing the shrinkage of woolen or wool blend fabrics

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105088503A (zh) * 2015-07-08 2015-11-25 浙江三十秋服饰有限公司 薄型混纺针织毛衫及防缩抗起球处理方法

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