WO2015091560A2 - Composition cosmétique avec plusieurs phases séparées, comprenant des surfactants cationiques et des alcools gras solides, dispositif et procédé associés - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique avec plusieurs phases séparées, comprenant des surfactants cationiques et des alcools gras solides, dispositif et procédé associés Download PDF

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WO2015091560A2
WO2015091560A2 PCT/EP2014/078076 EP2014078076W WO2015091560A2 WO 2015091560 A2 WO2015091560 A2 WO 2015091560A2 EP 2014078076 W EP2014078076 W EP 2014078076W WO 2015091560 A2 WO2015091560 A2 WO 2015091560A2
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cosmetic composition
chosen
fatty
cationic surfactants
composition according
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WO2015091560A3 (fr
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Estelle Mathonneau
Grégory Plos
Béatrice LOUISIUS
Julie VALENTIN
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition with several separate phases comprising cationic surfactants and solid fatty alcohols, device and process for the same
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, containing several phases that are visually separate from each other and comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more so lid fatty alcoho ls.
  • the invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising the said cosmetic composition and to a cosmetic treatment process in particular for treating the hair using the said composition o f the invention.
  • Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action o f external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • the haircare products conventionally used are, for example, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos or masks, which may be in the form o f gels, hair lotions or creams that are more or less thick. These care compositions may be rinse-out or leave-in compositions.
  • Care compositions especially hair conditioners, generally comprise cationic surfactants and so lid fatty substances such as fatty alcoho ls.
  • fatty alcoho l crystals are found in suspension in these care compositions since they are emulsified with the cationic surfactants .
  • the cationic surfactants make it possible not only to emulsify and stabilize the so lid fatty substances, especially fatty alcoho ls, in the care compositions, but also to form a film on the keratin fibres so as to lubricate them, which will lead to making them supple and facilitating their disentangling.
  • the cationic surfactants present in such care compositions simultaneously play a role consisting in emulsifying the so lid fatty substances and a role consisting in giving keratin fibres cosmetic properties.
  • One o f the aims o f the present invention is thus to propose compositions for caring for keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which the portion o f cationic surfactants acting as emulsifier is minimized and the portion o f cationic surfactants capable o f being deposited on the keratin fibres and o f forming a film is increased so as to improve the cosmetic properties, especially as regards the suppleness and the disentangling o f the fibres.
  • one subj ect o f which is especially a cosmetic composition in multi-phase form, preferably two-phase form, which comprises (i) at least one aqueous phase (A) free o f fatty substances comprising one or more cationic surfactants and (ii) at least one phase (B) comprising one or more cationic surfactants and one or more solid fatty alcoho ls, the said phases (A) and (B) being visually separate from each other.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably a composition for caring for or treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form o f two visually separate phases that are directly in contact, for example phase (A) being dispersed in phase (B) or phase (B) being dispersed in phase (A), or alternatively the two phases being mixed so as to form marbling.
  • This composition makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties imparted to keratin fibres, especially by improving their suppleness, disentangling and feel. Hair treated with the cosmetic composition according to the invention is thus more supple, has a smoother feel and disentangles more easily.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form o f two phases that are visually separate from each other.
  • two visually separate phases means a composition in which at least two phases that are directly in contact with each other can be distinguished by the naked eye without the aid of a magnification tool.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, so ld under the name Ceraphyl ® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, and alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R14 denotes a methyl radical
  • R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ® W 75 by Rewo;
  • Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N+(R 1 6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), X " ; Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R 2 1 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
  • X " which may be identical or different, represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, provided by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • R24 , R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7 - C2 1 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6 ,
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0,
  • X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 , that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 , and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group .
  • the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 1 0.
  • R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon group, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R24 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 1 -C21 hydrocarbon groups and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 1 -C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups .
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (C i -C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C i -C4)alkyl- or (C i -C4)alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (C i -C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C i -C4)alkyl- or (C i -C4)alkylarylsulfonate it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anionic counterion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • - P 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - P 23 is chosen from:
  • Such compounds are so ld, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco .
  • the cationic surfactant used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) .
  • the cationic surfactants present in the phases (A) and (B) are different and are preferably chosen from the quaternary ammonium salts o f formula (I) and quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, especially those chosen from the salts corresponding to formula (IV) and even more preferentially from quaternary ammonium salts o f formula (I) .
  • phase (A) or composition The cationic surfactants present in phase (A) or composition
  • (A) may be present in a content ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 % to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight o f said phase (A) .
  • phase (B) or composition The cationic surfactants present in phase (B) or composition
  • (B) may be present in a content ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 % to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight o f said phase (B) .
  • the content of cationic surfactants in phase (B) is greater than or equal to the content in phase (A) .
  • Solid fatty alcohols Phase (B) o f the cosmetic composition contains one or more so lid fatty alcohols .
  • the so lid fatty alcoho ls may be crystalline, amorphous or pasty.
  • the solid fatty alcohols preferably have a melting point of greater than or equal to 35°C and have a viscosity, at a temperature of 40°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.
  • the melting point of the fatty alcohols ranges from 35°C to 250°C and more particularly from 40 to 150°C.
  • the melting points may be measured by DSC or on a Kofler bench.
  • the melting point may be measured by differential calorimetric analysis (DSC) with a temperature rise of 10°C per minute. The melting point is then the temperature corresponding to the top of the melting endotherm peak obtained during the measurement.
  • DSC differential calorimetric analysis
  • the solid fatty alcohols preferably have a viscosity, at a temperature of 40°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 , ranging from 1 Pa.s to 1 000000 Pa.s and more preferentially from 10 to 1000 Pa.s.
  • the fatty alcohols preferably have the structure of formula (V) R-OH in which R especially denotes a C12-C40, preferably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 alkyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, R preferably being unsubstituted.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • phase (B) contains cetyl alcohol.
  • the so lid fatty alcoho ls may be present in phase (B) in a content ranging from 0.2% to 25 % by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 2% to 1 5 % by weight, or even from 4% to 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight of phase (B) .
  • Phase (B) o f the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additional fatty substances other than the abovementioned so lid fatty alcoho ls.
  • the fatty substances are generally so luble in organic so lvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum j elly or decamet hy Icy clop entasiloxane .
  • the fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (COOH or COO " ) .
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • non- silicone oil means an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
  • C 6 - C i 6 alkanes they are preferentially linear or branched, and possibly cyclic. Examp les that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
  • non-silicone oils o f animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin that may be used in the composition o f the invention, examples that may be mentioned include :
  • hydrocarbon-based oils o f animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • fluoro oils for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- l ,3 -dimethylcyclohexane, so ld under the names Flutec ® PC I and Flutec PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ® by the company 3M.
  • the additional fatty alcohols that may be used in the compositions of the invention are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure and are insoluble in water (i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight) and are soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) to at least 1% by weight.
  • organic solvent for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly
  • the liquid fatty alcohols in particular the C10-C30 alcohols, have branched carbon-based chains or contain one or more unsaturations, preferably 1 to 3 unsaturations.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably branched and/or unsaturated, and comprise from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention are non- oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
  • the fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R preferably denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, R does not contain any hydroxyl groups.
  • liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated fatty alcoho l. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty alcoho l is 2-octyl- l - dodecanol.
  • esters o f a fatty acid and/or of fatty alcoho ls, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made especially o f esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 - C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 - C26 aliphatic monoalcoho ls or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 - C i 5 alkyl lactate; iso stearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; lino leyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl o leate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; iso cetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; iso stearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricino leate; myristy
  • esters o f C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcoho ls and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 - C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stea
  • the composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids .
  • sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcoho l functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, o ligosaccharides or polysaccharides .
  • sucrose or saccharose
  • glucose or galactose
  • ribose or fucose
  • maltose fructose
  • mannose mannose
  • arabinose xylose
  • lactose and derivatives thereo f, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereo f.
  • esters may be, for example, o leates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, lino leates, lino lenates, caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters .
  • o f monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or di-o leate, -stearate, -behenate, oleate/palmitate, -lino leate, -lino lenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 %> monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45 % monoester and 55 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose mono laurate;
  • Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;
  • sucrose mono-di-palmitostearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ® PSE .
  • the silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are vo latile or non- vo latile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified by organic groups, having a viscosity from 5 x 10 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25 °C , and preferably l x l O "5 to 1 m 2 /s .
  • the silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups .
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups .
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C , and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane so ld especially under the name Vo latile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane so ld under the name Vo latile Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • Si - O— with D' - Si - O - I Mention may also be made o f mixtures o f cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture o f octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythrito l (50/50) and the mixture o f octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 ' -bis(2 ,2,2 ' ,2 ' ,3 ,3 ' - hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
  • Use is preferably made o f non-vo latile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms .
  • R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms .
  • the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 - C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group .
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from l x l O "5 to 5 x l 0 "2 m 2 /s at 25 °C .
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product
  • the silicones o f the PN and PH series from Bayer such as the products PN 1 000 and PH 1000; . certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amine groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the fatty substances do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerol units.
  • the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
  • the additional fatty substances are compounds that are liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the additional fatty substances used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, silicones and liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from amino silicones, liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci6 alkanes, polydecenes and liquid fatty alcohols such as 2-octyldodecanol.
  • phase (B) comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than the abovementioned solid fatty alcohols, chosen especially from amino silicones.
  • the additional fatty substance(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% and better still in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the phase which comprises them, in particular of phase (B).
  • the solid fatty substances preferably have a melting point of greater than or equal to 35°C and/or have a viscosity, at a temperature of 40°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.
  • the aqueous phase (A) does not contain any solid fatty alcohols.
  • the thickeners are preferably chosen from thickening polymers, or mixtures thereof.
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group o f 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms , or a hydroxyalkyl group o f 1 to 4 carbon atoms ;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms ;
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide . Mention may be made in particular o f the ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride homopolymer.
  • the polymers o f family ( 1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family o f acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower ( C 1 - C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters .
  • copolymers o f acrylamide and o f dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 7 13 by the company ISP, vinylpyrro lidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
  • the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products so ld under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • Such products are so ld in particular under the trade names Jaguar C 13 S , Jaguar C 15 , Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhodia.
  • water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation o f an acidic compound with a po lyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction o f a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis- halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mo l per amine group o f
  • Polymers o f this type are so ld in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc . or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case o f the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Ai and B i represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • Ai , Ri o and R12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring
  • Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • B i can also denote a group -(CH2)n-CO-D-O C-(CH2)n- in which D denotes :
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907 and US patents 2273780, 2375853, 2388614, 2454547, 3206462, 2261 002, 2271 378, 3874870, 4001 432, 3929990, 3966904, 4005 193, 4025617, 4025627, 4025653, 4026945 and 4027020.
  • Rio, 11, R12 and R13 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of Mexomer PO sold by the company Chimex.
  • D may be zero or may represent a group -(CH 2 )r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X- is an anion.
  • Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US patents 4 157388, 4702906 and 4719282. They are especially described in patent application EP-A-122324.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol ADl, Mirapol AZl and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • phases (A) and (B) and compositions (A) and (B) comprise more than 50% o f water, especially from 50%> to 99.5 % by weight of water, or even from 60% to 99% by weight of water and better still from 70% to 98.5 % by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants such as anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers; anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; antioxidants; dyes; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers .
  • adjuvants such as anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers; anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; antioxidants; dyes; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers .
  • a mixture is prepared at the time o f use, without using a rotary mixer, o f the two compositions (A) and (B) preferably in the weight ratio indicated previously, and the mixture obtained is applied to the keratin fibres, this application possibly being fo llowed by rinsing out after an optional leave-on time.
  • the two compositions (A) and (B) are applied sequentially in any order and without intermediate rinsing onto the keratin fibres, these applications possibly being followed by rinsing out after an optional leave-on time.
  • the cationic surfactants and the solid fatty alcohols are such as those that have been described previously.
  • composition (I) according to the invention obtained from compositions (Al ) and (B l ) and comparative composition (C) are applied per half-head to the hair o f the four models .
  • composition (I) is more supple, smoother and more coated and has more vo lume than the hair treated with comparative composition (C), this being the case for the four models .
  • composition according to the invention is in two-phase form with two phases that are visually separate from each other.
  • composition (III) After dispensing and applying composition (III) to washed and rinsed hair, good disentangling and suppleness properties and a coated feel are obtained on wet hair; after drying, the hair is supple, feels soft and has volume.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, qui se trouve sous une forme à phases multiples, de préférence sous une forme à deux phases, comprenant (i) au moins une phase aqueuse (A) dépourvue de substances grasses contenant un ou plusieurs surfactants cationiques et (ii) au moins une phase (B) comprenant un ou plusieurs surfactants cationiques et un ou plusieurs alcools gras solides, lesdites phases (A) et (B) étant visuellement distinctes l'une de l'autre.
PCT/EP2014/078076 2013-12-16 2014-12-16 Composition cosmétique avec plusieurs phases séparées, comprenant des surfactants cationiques et des alcools gras solides, dispositif et procédé associés Ceased WO2015091560A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR1362699A FR3014684B1 (fr) 2013-12-16 2013-12-16 Composition cosmetique avec plusieurs phases distinctes, comprenant des tensioactifs cationiques et des alcools gras solides, dispositif et procede
FR1362699 2013-12-16

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WO2015091560A2 true WO2015091560A2 (fr) 2015-06-25
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FR3060332B1 (fr) * 2016-12-16 2019-11-01 L'oreal Composition multiphasique conditionnante avec effet remanent aux shampoings

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US20050143268A1 (en) * 2003-11-14 2005-06-30 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care composition containing a cleansing phase and a benefit phase
US20060078527A1 (en) * 2004-10-08 2006-04-13 Sanjeev Midha Multi phase personal care composition comprising a conditioning phase and a water continuous benefit phase
US20070014823A1 (en) * 2005-07-12 2007-01-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Multi phase personal care composition comprising compositions having similar rheology profile in different phases

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