WO2019096820A1 - Composition cosmétique de conditionnement comprenant un tensioactif non ionique, un polysaccharide, un polymère cationique et une substance grasse liquide - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique de conditionnement comprenant un tensioactif non ionique, un polysaccharide, un polymère cationique et une substance grasse liquide Download PDF

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WO2019096820A1
WO2019096820A1 PCT/EP2018/081185 EP2018081185W WO2019096820A1 WO 2019096820 A1 WO2019096820 A1 WO 2019096820A1 EP 2018081185 W EP2018081185 W EP 2018081185W WO 2019096820 A1 WO2019096820 A1 WO 2019096820A1
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weight
composition
chosen
composition according
gum
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Eric DUPONCHEL
Gérard Gabin
Sandrine Olivier-Mabilais
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • Conditioning cosmetic composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant, a polysaccharide, a cationic polymer and a liquid fatty substance
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one polysaccharide, at least one particular cationic polymer, at least one liquid fatty substance and water.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying this composition to said keratin materials.
  • a subject of the invention is the use of the composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning said fibres.
  • Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected.
  • conditioning agents may of course also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair, in particular giving it sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and also disentangling properties.
  • Hair conditioning compositions containing an aqueous phase and a fatty phase gelled by means of mineral thickeners have been described, for example, in application FR 3 022 781.
  • the mineral thickening agents used to stabilize the mixture of the two types of phases have the drawback of exuding over time, in particular at high storage temperatures.
  • phase coalescence phenomena can occur, leading to phase separation of the mixture and/or a drop in the viscosity of the composition over time.
  • compositions must also retain good working properties and good conditioning performance levels.
  • the working properties it must advantageously be possible for the composition to be easily applied to the keratin fibres and to be rapidly rinsed off, where appropriate.
  • the performance properties the composition must advantageously confer, on the keratin fibres, good cosmetic properties, in particular sheen, softness, suppleness and lightness properties and a natural feel, and good disentangling properties, without however making the keratin fibres greasy or making them lank.
  • cosmetic treatment compositions in particular conditioning compositions, which have good stability over time (several months), in particular at high storage temperatures (for example 45°C) while at the same time retaining good working and performance properties.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant, a polysaccharide, a particular cationic polymer, a liquid fatty substance and water makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more non-ionic surfactants,
  • one or more cationic polymers comprising one or more units derived from one or more acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomers
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to efficiently condition the keratin fibres and has the advantage of being able to be applied easily and also of being rapidly rinsed off.
  • composition according to the invention has improved working qualities and good conditioning performance levels, in particular in terms of sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, natural feel and also disentangling properties.
  • the composition according to the invention is stable with respect to storage over time, both at ambient temperature (25°C) and at higher temperatures such as at 45°C and even more, such as at 60°C.
  • the term “stable with respect to storage over time” is intended to mean that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little, or even not at all, over time, in particular after 2 months: appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency).
  • the composition does not give rise to any phase-separation or exudation phenomena over time, and at the intended storage temperature.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
  • composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the term“keratin materials” mainly denotes keratin fibres and the skin.
  • the term“keratin fibres” mainly denotes human keratin fibres and in particular the hair.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more non- ionic surfactants.
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants examples include the following non- ionic surfactants:
  • - oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24 )alkylphenols - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C 8 to C 4 o alcohols, which are preferably oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • C 8 -C 3 o)alkyl(poly)glucosides (C 8 -C 3 o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C 8 -C 3 o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • glycerolated non-ionic surfactants use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 to C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • glycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the
  • non- ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen from:
  • C 8 to C 4 o in particular C 10 -C 32 , or even Ci 2 -C 28
  • alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two C 8 to C 4 o, in particular C 10 -C 32 , or even Ci 2 -C 28 , fatty chains; they preferentially comprise only one C 8 to C 4 o, in particular C 10 -C 32 , or even Ci 2 -C 28 fatty chain;
  • non- ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:
  • the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs a C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol and preferably comprising at least one C 8 -C 20 , in particular C 10 -C 32 , or even C 12 - C 28 , alkyl chain, in particular the compound steareth-20, and (Cs- C 3 o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated and which comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, such as the compound with the INCI name Cetearyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof
  • the non- ionic surfactant(s) represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.
  • sucrose unit is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • a) tree or shrub exudates including:
  • - gum arabic branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • - ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • gums resulting from algae including:
  • gums resulting from seeds or tubers including:
  • locust bean gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • microbial gums including:
  • - xanthan gum polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid
  • - gellan gum polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • the polysaccharide(s) of the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of the polysaccharides above.
  • These polymers can be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may especially be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
  • non- ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with Ci-C 6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • Ci-CV (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups
  • guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the botanical origin of the starches that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized com distarch phosphate).
  • amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • the starches may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention may be cellulose-based polymers.
  • cellulose-based polymer is intended to mean any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via b-1,4 bonds; in addition to the unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non- ionic.
  • the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
  • cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydro xypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • Non-ionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of (Ci- C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C 4 )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl(Ci-C 4 )alkylcellulose mixed celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AkzoNobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses
  • anionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C 4 )alkylcelluloses and salts thereof.
  • carboxymethylcelluloses for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon
  • carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • polysaccharide(s) are chosen from:
  • these polysaccharides optionally being modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction.
  • the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from a mixture of one or more celluloses and of one or more starches, which may or may not be modified.
  • the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from a mixture of one or more cellulose ethers, which are preferably non-ionic, and of one or more distarch phosphates.
  • the polysaccharide(s) represent in total from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the composition comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides such as those mentioned above.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of cellulose(s) and of starch(es) such as those mentioned above, in particular a mixture of cellulose ether(s) and of distarch phosphate(s).
  • the weight ratio of the amount of starch to the amount of cellulose is preferably between 0.1 and 10, more preferentially between 0.5 and 5, and in particular between 1 and 2.5.
  • the weight ratio between the total amount of the polysaccharide(s) b) and the total amount of the non-ionic surfactant(s) a) is between 0.1 and 15, preferably between 0.5 and 10, and more preferentially between 1 and 5.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers comprising one or more units derived from one or more acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomers.
  • unit derived from a monomer is intended to mean the unit formed directly at the end of the monomer polymerization step.
  • acrylic acid- or methacrylic acid-based monomer is of course intended to mean acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, but also in particular the esters or amides of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.
  • the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention preferably comprise one or more units derived from one or more monomers chosen from those having the following structures:
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Ci to CV, alkyl group, preferably a Ci to C 4 alkyl group,
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 4 , R S and Re which may be identical or different, denote a Ci to Cis alkyl group or a benzyl radical,
  • Ci-C 6 denotes a linear or branched Ci-C 6 and preferably Ci-C 4 alkylene group, or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkylene group, and
  • - X denotes an anion, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide such as a chloride or bromide.
  • the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from a monomer of formula (II).
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group
  • R’ 4 , R’ S and R > which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci to C 4 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, - Ai denotes a linear or branched Ci-C 4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group, and
  • - Xf denotes an anion, preferably a halide, particularly a chloride.
  • the cationic polymer(s) according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked.
  • the cationic polymers according to the invention can comprise one or more additional units, in particular derived from monomers chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from homopolymers constituted of units derived from a monomer of structure (V), copolymers based on acrylamide and on monomers of structure (V), and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers having structure (V), copolymers resulting from copolymerization between at least one monomer having structure (V) and acrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic polymer is the homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, INCI name Polyquatemium-37.
  • the cationic polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.25% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more liquid fatty substances.
  • liquid fatty substance is intended to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • fatty substance according to the present application is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 x 10 5 Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight, in water.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • organic solvents for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • liquid fatty substance(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from non-silicone liquid fatty substances.
  • non-silicone liquid fatty substance is intended to mean a liquid fatty substance not containing Si-0 bonds.
  • the liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • the liquid fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-salified fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the term“liquid hydrocarbon” is intended to mean a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
  • the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
  • liquid fatty alcohol is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but they are preferably acyclic.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R'-OH, in which R' denotes a branched C 12 -C 24 alkyl or linear or branched C 12 -C 24 alkenyl group, R' possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • R' is a branched C 12 -C 24 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyls; better still, R' does not contain a hydroxyl group.
  • liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • Octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol and oleyl alcohol are most particularly preferred.
  • liquid fatty ester is intended to mean an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • liquid esters are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • alkyl in particular C 1 -C 28 alkyl
  • palmitates such as ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl in particular C 1 -C 28 alkyl
  • myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate alkyl, in particular C 1 -C 28 alkyl
  • myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may be used.
  • esters mentioned above use is preferentially made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol
  • liquid fatty esters use may be made of sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar is intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • these said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar and fatty acid esters may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • sugar esters use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates, or alternatively of methylglucose dioleate (Glucate® DO).
  • sugar esters use may be made of pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.
  • said plant oil(s) or synthetic oil(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vemonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois
  • liquid esters that may be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of triglycerides of plant origin, in particular oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil and apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof, and C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, in particular 1, 3-propanediol dicaprylate.
  • oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil and apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof
  • fatty acid is intended to mean a non-salified fatty acid, i.e. the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, i.e. it must not be salified with a base.
  • R is a C 7 -C 29 alkyl or C 7 -C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12-
  • R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
  • the liquid fatty acid(s) are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) of the composition according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, in particular plant oils, liquid hydrocarbons, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) of the composition according to the invention represent from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises water.
  • water represents from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 98% by weight and preferentially from 70% to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents.
  • the organic solvent(s) are chosen from Ci-C 6 non-aromatic alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol, or polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol mono methyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol mo no methyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.
  • Ci-C 6 non-aromatic alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or
  • the organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more thickening polymers other than the polysaccharides, preferably chosen from associative thickening polymers other than the polysaccharides, better still from non-ionic associative thickening polymers other than the polysaccharides.
  • the term "associative polymer” is intended to mean an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
  • the term“hydrophobic region or group” is intended to mean a hydrocarbon- based group or a polymer comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the hydrophobic group comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferentially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrophobic group is derived from a mono functional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as steareth-lOO. It may also denote a hydrocarbon- based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • the non-ionic thickening polymer(s) other than the polysaccharides that can be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from polyurethane polyethers comprising, in their chain, both hydrophilic blocks, which are usually polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • the non-ionic associative polyurethane polyethers that can be used according to the invention comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, which are separated by a hydrophilic block, it being possible for the hydrocarbon-based chains to be pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the hydrophilic block(s) are preferably polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, chains comprising from 10 to 1000, especially from 20 to 500, in particular from 80 to 300, even better still from 100 to 300, oxy ethylene groups.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 10 to 1000, especially from 20 to 500, in particular from 80 to 300, even better still from 100 to 300, oxyethylene groups.
  • the non- ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
  • non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers also include those with hydrophilic blocks bonded to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • Rheolate 205 comprising a urea function, sold by Elementis, or else Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184.
  • the product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas having a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244, sold by Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. ScL, 271, 380-389 (1993).
  • a non ionic associative polyurethane poly ether that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 500, in particular from 50 to 400, or else from 80 to 350, even better still from 100 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated linear or branched C 12 -C 28 , in particular C 14 -C 26 , alcohol comprising from 10 to 200, in particular from 10 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
  • a non-ionic associative polyurethane polyether that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising from 80 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
  • Such a polymer is in particular provided by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100® or Rheoluxe 811®.
  • a non-ionic associative polyurethane polyether that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 200 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising from 10 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
  • polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethylene oxide polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising 20 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI)
  • HDI hexamethylene diisocyanate
  • Adekanol Gt 730® by the company Adeka.
  • a polyurethane poly ether that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 300, in particular from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a linear or branched CVCA, in particular Cio-C 24 , alcohol in particular stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol (PEG) comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
  • the non-ionic associative polymers as described above have a number-average molecular weight of less than 500 000 and more preferentially still of less than 100 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullioscopy or titration of the end groups.
  • the non-ionic associative polymer(s), other than the polysaccharides, that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non- ionic associative polyurethane polyethers, in particular those that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising from 80 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate, and those that can be obtained by poly condensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 200 to 300 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol comprising from 10 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
  • non- ionic associative polyurethane polyethers in particular those that can be obtained
  • the thickening polymer(s) other than the polysaccharides represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02% 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which are preferably non-silicone.
  • cationic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in a composition that may be used according to the invention.
  • This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C 30 alkyl, C1-C 30 alkoxy, (C 2 -C 6 ) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 alkylamide, (C12- C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C 6 )alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl acetate, and C 1 -C 30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkylsulfo nates and (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI) are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is preferred in particular to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
  • R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Ri 4 represents a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R 12 and R 13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R I4 denotes a methyl group and R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2) 3 -N + (Ri 6a )(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri 6a , Rna and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
  • R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • - X is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkylsulfo nates and (Ci- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quatemium 89) and Finquat CT (Quatemium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
  • R 22 is chosen from Ci-CV, alkyl groups and Ci-CV, hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
  • - r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to
  • - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10
  • - x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, it being understood that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15,
  • the alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C 4 )alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
  • the anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quatemization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from a mixture of the cationic surfactants of formulae (VI) to (IX) above.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (VI) or (IX) and mixtures of these compounds, more preferentially from those of formula (VI) and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, and in particular from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) advantageously represent a total content of from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 1 and 7, preferably between 2 and 6.5, better still between 3 and 6 and preferentially between 3.5 and 5.5.
  • the pH of the composition of the invention may be adjusted and/or stabilized by means of basifying agents and/or acidifying agents that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • Basifying agents that may especially be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, in particular less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6; among the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid, it should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, in particular comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-C 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals; from oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, and from amino acids and compounds having the following formula:
  • Acidifying agents that may especially be mentioned include hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and also carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, lactic acid or citric acid, or sulfonic acids.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
  • cationic polymers other than the cationic polymers present in the composition the invention and mentioned above, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers other than the polysaccharides mentioned above, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, oxy acids, fragrances, preservatives, pigments and ceramides.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is a hair composition, in particular a hair conditioning composition, such as a conditioner or a hair mask, to be rinsed off or left on.
  • a hair conditioning composition such as a conditioner or a hair mask
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, which comprises a step of applying the composition as described above to said materials.
  • the composition may be applied to dry or damp keratin fibres, and particularly to damp keratin fibres.
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to damp keratin fibres, after applying a washing composition of the shampoo type.
  • the composition can be rinsed off after application to the keratin fibres; it can thus be in the form of a hair composition such as a conditioner, or a skin care and/or hygiene composition, such as a shower gel or a body milk to be rinsed off under the shower.
  • a hair composition such as a conditioner
  • a skin care and/or hygiene composition such as a shower gel or a body milk to be rinsed off under the shower.
  • composition can also be used in non-rinse-off mode, that is to say without a rinsing step after it has been applied to the keratin fibres.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and preferably for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the cosmetic treatment is preferably a conditioning care treatment.
  • composition A was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in table below.
  • Composition A is stable after 2 months of storage at 45°C. In particular, no drop in viscosity is observed.
  • compositions of the invention are characterized by a viscoelastic behaviour. Under the effect of the shear, the compositions have the characteristics of a purely elastic material which stores energy and the characteristics of a purely viscous material which dissipates energy.
  • This viscoelastic behaviour can be characterized by its modulus of rigidity G (parameter defined in the book“Initiation a la rheologie” [“Initiation to rheology”], G. Couarraze and J.L. Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, published by Lavoisier-Tee 1 Doc.).
  • This parameter is determined by measurements carried out at 25°C+/-0.5°C using a Haake Mars III imposed-stress rheometer from the company ThermoRheo, equipped with a stainless steel spindle in sanded l°+/-0.033° Cone/Plate geometry, the plate having a diameter of 60 mm and a gap of 0.052+/- 0.005.
  • the dynamic measurements are carried out by applying a harmonic variation of the stress.
  • the amplitudes of the shear, the shear rate and the stress are low so as to remain within the limit of the linear viscoelastic range of the material (the conditions enabling the rheological characteristics of the composition to be evaluated at rest, that is to say non-destructively).
  • the composition thus sheared is subjected to a stress r(t) and responds according to a strain y(t) corresponding to microstrains for which the modulus of rigidity varies little as a function of the stress imposed; this is the parameter G termed plateau (Gpl).
  • the stress r(t) and the strain yft) are defined respectively by the following relationships:
  • tq is the maximum amplitude of the stress and gq is the maximum amplitude of the strain d is the phase angle between the stress and the strain.
  • the change in the modulus of rigidity G (ratio of tq to gq) as a function of the stress r(t) applied is thus measured.
  • Composition A was tested in comparison to a conventional hair care composition B comprising in particular 4.7 g% of cationic surfactant (behentrimonium chloride), 1.7 g% of amodimethicone and 7 g% of solid fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
  • compositions were applied per half head on 6 models, in a proportion of 6 g of composition per half head, on prewashed hair.
  • Composition A results in performance levels in terms of smoothness to the touch during rinsing and on wet hair, and of disentangling on wet hair, that are significantly higher the those of a conventional care composition B.
  • compositions C and D were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% by weight of AM).
  • compositions C and D were stored for 10 days in an oven at high temperature (60°C).
  • Composition D had a homogeneous aspect that did not evolve after the the 10 days of storage.
  • the physical aspect of the composition did not change, and no exudation of oil was apparent.
  • comparative composition C revealed the apparition of oil agglomerates within the composition and of oily exudates at the interface of the composition with the air after the 10 days of storage. This indicates that the oily phase has started to separate.
  • comparative composition C is less stable on storage than inventive composition D.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant : a) un ou plusieurs tensioactifs non ioniques, b) un ou plusieurs polysaccharides représentant de 2% à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, c) un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques comprenant une ou plusieurs unités dérivées d'un ou de plusieurs monomères à base d'acide acrylique ou d'acide méthacrylique, d) une ou plusieurs substances grasses liquides à température ambiante et à pression ambiante, et e) de l'eau. L'invention a également pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, comprenant une étape d'application de cette composition sur lesdites matières kératiniques. Enfin, l'invention a pour objet l'utilisation de la composition pour le traitement cosmétique des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, et de préférence pour conditionner lesdits matériaux.
PCT/EP2018/081185 2017-11-15 2018-11-14 Composition cosmétique de conditionnement comprenant un tensioactif non ionique, un polysaccharide, un polymère cationique et une substance grasse liquide Ceased WO2019096820A1 (fr)

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FR1760723 2017-11-15

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US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
WO2022266947A1 (fr) * 2021-06-24 2022-12-29 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US12214065B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2025-02-04 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US12285508B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2025-04-29 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
WO2022266947A1 (fr) * 2021-06-24 2022-12-29 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques

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