WO2019103453A2 - Composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau contenant de la calamine à teneur élevée stabilisée dans une phase interne - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau contenant de la calamine à teneur élevée stabilisée dans une phase interne Download PDF

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WO2019103453A2
WO2019103453A2 PCT/KR2018/014352 KR2018014352W WO2019103453A2 WO 2019103453 A2 WO2019103453 A2 WO 2019103453A2 KR 2018014352 W KR2018014352 W KR 2018014352W WO 2019103453 A2 WO2019103453 A2 WO 2019103453A2
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Prior art keywords
sorbitan
surfactant
cosmetic composition
calamine
oil
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Korean (ko)
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WO2019103453A3 (fr
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박안나
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Amorepacific Corp
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Amorepacific Corp
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Publication of WO2019103453A3 publication Critical patent/WO2019103453A3/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an underwater type cosmetic composition in which a high content of calamine is stabilized in the inner phase by using a combination of a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a mixture of a sorbitan surfactant and a saccharide surfactant as an internal stabilizer in the preparation of an underwater type cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine in the interior.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for stabilizing high-content calamine in the in-vivo type cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a method for maximizing the functional activity of a calamine by applying a high-content, in-vivo calamine-stabilized underwater-type cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin.
  • Calamine is a light pink fine powder obtained by mixing zinc oxide with 0.5 ⁇ 1% iron oxide (III). Zinc oxide contained in the calamine has an anti-inflammatory and protective action. Therefore, calamine is contained in external preparations for skin such as ointment and spraying agent, and is used as a protective agent for treating skin diseases, an astringent agent, and an antiseptic agent. In the field of cosmetics, it is contained in a calamine lotion base and is used for the purpose of improving acne skin and soothing the skin.
  • Korean Patent No. 10-1590803 discloses a cosmetic composition for improving immediate whitening or complexion containing calamine.
  • this patent also adopts a water-in-oil type rather than an underwater type as an effective formulation.
  • the key to stabilizing the calamine in water-in-oil formulations and enhancing its long-term stability is to overcome the phenomenon of precipitation of the polymer and calamine into the particles and gelling of the polymer.
  • the calamine was separated from the outer surface of the polymer and stabilized inward.
  • a method of using a calorimine-based surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant together thereby securing a long-term stability by stabilizing a high content of calamine in the inner phase of an underwater type cosmetic, It is also possible to improve.
  • Patent Document 1 Korean Patent No. 10-1590803
  • the present inventors tried to prepare a cosmetic stabilized with a high content of colorini in water type in order to obtain improved feeling than the conventional water-in-oil type colorin cosmetic.
  • the gelation phenomenon of the polymer became a problem.
  • a method of dispersing the polymer and the calamine in different phases was devised.
  • an object of the present invention to provide an underwater-type cosmetic composition which stabilizes a high-content coloramine in the interior.
  • the present invention provides a water-in-oil cosmetic composition stabilized with a high content of calamine by stabilizing the calamine in the inner phase by containing a calamine, a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant.
  • the present invention also provides the use of a mixture of a sorbitan surfactant and a saccharide surfactant as an internal stabilizer in the preparation of an underwater-type cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine in the inner layer.
  • the present invention also provides a method for stabilizing high-content calamine in the in-vivo type cosmetic composition. Further, the present invention provides a method for maximizing the functional activity of a calamine by applying a high-calorie-stabilized water-in-oil type cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can increase the stability and long-term stability of a calamine-containing oil-in-water preparation by using a combination of a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant.
  • a sorbitan surfactant e.g., sorbitan surfactant
  • sugar surfactant e.g., sorbitan surfactant
  • the high-content calamine can be stabilized to the inner phase of the water type, it is possible to improve the feeling of bad feeling such as stiffness and the skin absorbency.
  • FIG. 1 is a photograph of the appearance of a composition for observing the degree of separation between water phase and oil phase after storing Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 at 45.degree. C. for 2 weeks after production.
  • Fig. 2 is a photograph of the appearance of a cream-like appearance stabilized in an underwater type with the composition of Example 1.
  • the present invention relates to an underwater type cosmetic composition containing a calamine, a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant and stabilizing a high-content calamine in the inner phase.
  • Calamine which is contained as an effective ingredient in cosmetics, is a fine powder with a light pink color. It is mainly used for improving acne skin and soothing skin. It is also known to exhibit whitening effect and moisturizing effect by being included in a water-in-oil type cosmetic material.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition which contains a high content of calamine having such an effect and which is stabilized in the in-water type, which is not a water-in-oil type.
  • the calamine may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the columbium is more than 15% by weight, the dispersion stability may be lowered. If the content of the columbium is less than 0.01% by weight, the effect of the skin due to the coloramine may be insignificant.
  • the above-mentioned calamine may be a commercially available raw material, or a modified calamine which can be prepared by a conventional method by controlling the compounding ratio of components constituting the calamine.
  • a nonionic surfactant is used to stabilize the calamine in the water-in-oil type, and at least one of a sugar surfactant and at least one sorbitan surfactant is used together with the nonionic surfactant.
  • the sugar type surfactant refers to an alkyl polyglycoside (APGs) type surfactant, a sugar ester type surfactant, or a mixture thereof.
  • APGs alkyl polyglycoside
  • alkylpolyglycosides in the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants refer to general alkylpolyglycosides represented by the following general formula (1).
  • the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant may include a mixture of an alkyl polyglycoside represented by the following formula (1) and a fatty alcohol.
  • the sugar ester is mainly a saccharide fatty acid ester, and refers to a substance in which a fatty acid of C10-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C26, is ester-bonded to glucose.
  • the sugar ester surfactant includes an ester compound produced by bonding a fatty acid with a condensation reaction product of sugar and other substances together with a common sugar fatty acid ester.
  • the alkyl polyglycoside surfactant may be at least one selected from surfactants composed of a mixture of C6-C30 higher alcohol and C10-C30 glucoside derivative. More particularly, the present invention relates to a method for producing a C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside, a behenyl alcohol * It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of arachidyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol and coco-glucoside.
  • the sugar ester surfactant may be polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
  • the above-mentioned saccharide-type surfactant may be prepared by using Cetearyl Alcohol * Cetearyl Glucoside alone as the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant, Alternatively, the polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be used together with the above-mentioned cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside and the sugar ester surfactant.
  • the sugar-based surfactant used in the present invention serves to stabilize oil-in-water (O / W) emulsified particles.
  • the cetearyl alcohol * Cetearyl Glucoside which can be used in the present invention, is a surfactant having a higher content of fatty alcohols including cetearyl alcohol, and the fatty alcohol Plays a role of keeping the interface film harder while forming liquid crystals around the O / W interface film formed by cetearyl glucoside. Therefore, it is possible to maintain the emulsion stability even under harsh conditions or for a long period of storage, and thus it can be an important component for preventing the aggregation or separation of chromamine in the present invention.
  • the saccharide-based surfactant may be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If the amount of the sugar-based surfactant exceeds 8% by weight, the formulation may not be formed, and if it is less than 0.1% by weight, the surfactant may have a small role.
  • the sorbitan surfactant includes a sorbitan ester and an addition polymer of sorbitan ester and ethylene oxide.
  • the sorbitan esters are usually classified as sugar type surfactants, but the sorbitan esters and / or the polymer components of the sorbitan esters are classified as important because they greatly affect the formulation stability of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • a sorbitan fatty acid ester such as sorbitan olivate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan is
  • the sorbitan surfactant used in the present invention has the function of increasing the dispersibility so that the calamine powder is well dispersed in the water-in-oil type. Particularly, when a combination of sorbitan ester and polysorbate, which is a surface active agent grafted with polyethylene glycol (PEG) having a very high surfactant activity, is used in combination, a high content of calamine is stabilized in the in- It can be very effective in doing so.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • the sorbitan surfactant may be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the sorbitan surfactant is more than 5% by weight, it may interfere with the formation of the formulations, and if it is less than 0.01% by weight, it is difficult to expect the dispersibility improving ability.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention it is preferable that one or more of the above-mentioned saccharide surfactant and the above-mentioned sorbitan surfactant are used together, and when only a saccharide surfactant is used or only a sorbitan surfactant is used,
  • the underwater type formulation may not be well formed or the stability may be significantly deteriorated.
  • the mixing ratio of the saccharide-based surfactant and the sorbitan-based surfactant is 2.5: 0.6 to 2.5 based on the weight, excellent formulation stability and long-term stability can be exhibited.
  • nonionic surfactants instead of the sorbitan surfactants or to use anionic surfactants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • PEG-100 Stearate or Glyceryl MonoStearate which is a non-ionic surfactant commonly used, or when an anionic surfactant such as glyceryl stearate
  • anionic surfactant such as glyceryl stearate
  • Glyceryl Stearate Citrate or Potassium Cetyl Phosphate it is difficult to stabilize the calamine in the water-in-oil type alone without mixing the sugar surfactant and the sorbitan surfactant, The long-term stability may be lowered even if the formulation is not formed at the time of manufacture and is immediately separated or the formulation is formed.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise an oil, a polyol, an aging agent, water, etc., in addition to the calamine and the saccharide-based or sorbitan-based surfactant.
  • the oil may contain, for example, an ester-based or hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of about 10% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition in order to impart adequate moisture.
  • the polyol may be contained in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the thickening agent examples include hydroxyethyl methacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and the like.
  • Polyacrylates such as Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyacrylate-13, and Sodium Poylacrylate may be used.
  • the composition may be used in a total amount of the composition 0.1 to 3 % By weight.
  • polyacrylates When polyacrylates are used as an incremental agent in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it may be more advantageous in formulation stability of an underwater type than using a carbomer-based thickener.
  • a carbomer-based thickener When using a carbomer-based thickener in an underwater type, it is easily influenced by electric charges and becomes more easily entangled with a powder such as a calamine, which may deteriorate the quality.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include at least one selected from the group consisting of moisturizers, pigments, fragrances, preservatives and other additives commonly used in cosmetics, in addition to the above components.
  • the water-in-oil type is an oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion form in which the external phase (continuous phase)
  • the colocalimin is prepared to be contained in the intestine.
  • the water-in-oil type cosmetic composition according to the present invention is prepared by dissolving a water-based component and an oil-based component at room temperature, emulsifying the oil-based part in an aqueous phase, and dispersing it in an oil-based component. Then, the emulsified contents may be cooled, and then the thickening agent may be added and dispersed.
  • the water-in-oil type cosmetic composition according to the present invention produced by the above-mentioned method can keep long-term stability for 12 months or longer without precipitation of particles or separation of formulations even at high temperature of 45 ° C and high-speed mixing at 9,000 rpm.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention stabilized in accordance with the above method can improve feeling of use such as spreadability and improve skin absorbency.
  • the underwater type cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be formulated into an essence, lotion, cream, or night form to be applied or sprayed on the skin or mucous membranes, without any particular limitation, and may be moisturized, whitened, Sedative, or sensitive skin, and the like.
  • the water-in-oil type cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared by the following production methods according to the contents and contents shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.
  • Calamin (manufactured by Jufa Biocell Co., Ltd.) was used as the calamine, and cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68, Seppic Co., France) and / or Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucoside distearate (Tego care 450, manufactured by Evonik) was used in the examples.
  • the sorbitan surfactant was sorbitan olivate (Olivem 1000, manufactured by B & T) and / or polysorbate 60 (TWEEN # 60 V, manufactured by CRODA) was used.
  • the calamine is dispersed in the oil-based part, not in the water-based part.
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 Example 4
  • Example 6 Example 7 Paid Efficacy component Calamine 5 10 15 5 5 5 10
  • Surfactants Cetearyl Alcohol * Cetearyl Glucoside 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 One 2 2.5 2.5
  • Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated using a low temperature incubator LTI-1001SD (product name of EYELA) at a temperature of -15 DEG C to 45 DEG C for 24 hours, And the accelerated stability of the formulation was evaluated.
  • LTI-1001SD product name of EYELA
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 Example 4
  • Example 5 Example 6
  • Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Stability (45 °C) X X ⁇ ⁇ X Acceleration stability X X ⁇ ⁇ X
  • Examples 1 to 7 which contain a high content of calamine in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight and contain a saccharide-based surfactant and a sorbitan-based surfactant, And both of high temperature stability and acceleration stability showed excellent results.
  • the content of the calamine was increased by 2 times and 3 times, respectively, based on Example 1, and the sorbitan surfactant effective for the dispersion of the calamine was increased and prespecified. As a result, It was confirmed that a formulation having excellent stability was obtained even when it reached 15% by weight.
  • the mixing ratio of the saccharide surfactant and the sorbitan surfactant at this time was preferably 2.5: 0.6 to 2.5 on a weight basis.
  • Example 1 and Examples 4 to 7 each containing at least one saccharide surfactant and at least one sorbitan surfactant exhibited excellent results in both high temperature stability and acceleration stability.
  • Example 1 the result of Fig. 1 shows that even after storage at 45 ⁇ for 2 weeks after the preparation, no separation of the water phase and oil phase occurs, and it is visually confirmed that it is very stable as compared with Comparative Examples 1 to 5 I could.
  • FIG. 2 when the cream stabilized in the water-in-oil type was applied onto the skin in the composition of Example 1, it was confirmed that the powder particles were uniformly dispersed without any lumps.
  • Example 4 and Example 5 in which two kinds of sugar-based surfactants were used were compared among Examples, when the content of cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside was higher than that of Example 4 , It was expected that the hardness of the formulation was found to be the highest, resulting in a higher possibility that the long-term stability was more excellent. This results from the fact that the fatty alcohol contained in the cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside increases the hardness by forming a liquid crystal around the O / W interface film formed by cetearyl glucoside while keeping the interface film harder .
  • Comparative Example 4 using only a saccharide surfactant showed good stability in acceleration, but showed normal stability at a high temperature, indicating that the stability at high temperature was weaker than the acceleration stability there was.
  • the high temperature stability and the acceleration stability were similar, but the comparative example 4 tended to be more influenced when exposed to high temperature.
  • Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 using the anionic surfactant instead of the sorbitan surfactant did not form a stable formulation as shown in Table 4 and FIG. When exposed to 45 ° C for two weeks, the powder disintegrated as the water separated.
  • Comparative Example 3 using PEG-100 stearate as a PEG surfactant instead of a sorbitan surfactant the formulation was formed as shown in Table 4 and FIG. 1, but the stability at a high temperature and the stability in acceleration were poor, .

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau, dans laquelle de la calamine à teneur élevée est stabilisée dans une phase interne au moyen d'un mélange d'un tensioactif à base de sorbitan et d'un tensioactif à base de sucre. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation d'un mélange d'un tensioactif à base de sorbitan et d'un tensioactif à base de sucre en tant que stabilisant de phase interne dans la préparation d'une composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau contenant de la calamine à teneur élevée dans une phase interne. La présente invention concerne aussi un procédé de stabilisation de la calamine à teneur élevée dans une phase interne d'une composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau. En outre, la présente invention concerne un procédé pour maximiser l'activité fonctionnelle de la calamine par application, sur la peau, de la composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau contenant de la calamine à teneur élevée dans une phase interne selon la présente invention.
PCT/KR2018/014352 2017-11-22 2018-11-21 Composition cosmétique huile dans l'eau contenant de la calamine à teneur élevée stabilisée dans une phase interne Ceased WO2019103453A2 (fr)

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CN201880075382.0A CN111479547B (zh) 2017-11-22 2018-11-21 在内相中稳定化高含量炉甘石的水包油型化妆料组合物

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CN119950326A (zh) * 2025-03-25 2025-05-09 科玛化妆品(无锡)有限公司 一种炉甘石组合物及其制备方法和应用

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WO2023113778A1 (fr) * 2021-12-14 2023-06-22 Guanche Anna D Formulations de soufre colloïdal de composé d'acide gras à longue chaîne comprenant des ingrédients fonctionnels pour le traitement de l'acné et d'autres applications

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CN111479547A (zh) 2020-07-31
KR20190058950A (ko) 2019-05-30
KR102394535B1 (ko) 2022-05-06
TW201924646A (zh) 2019-07-01
CN111479547B (zh) 2023-03-28
WO2019103453A3 (fr) 2019-07-18

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