WO2021056522A1 - Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021056522A1
WO2021056522A1 PCT/CN2019/108950 CN2019108950W WO2021056522A1 WO 2021056522 A1 WO2021056522 A1 WO 2021056522A1 CN 2019108950 W CN2019108950 W CN 2019108950W WO 2021056522 A1 WO2021056522 A1 WO 2021056522A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
weight
agents
guar gum
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/CN2019/108950
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English (en)
Inventor
Rongjing Xu
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to PCT/CN2019/108950 priority Critical patent/WO2021056522A1/fr
Priority to CN201980100831.7A priority patent/CN114401770A/zh
Publication of WO2021056522A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021056522A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials.
  • Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
  • Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue.
  • the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.
  • JP-A-2011-73992 discloses a composition
  • a composition comprising the following components (A) to (F) : (A) 10-50 parts by weight of one or more polyglycerin fatty acid esters with an HLB of 10-18, obtained from a polyglycerin and a fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, (B) 1-30 parts by weight of one or more fatty acid monoglycerides obtained from glycerin and a fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, (C) 0.1-30 parts by weight of an oil in the form of liquid at 25°C., (D) 10-35 parts by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, (E) 5-40 parts by weight of water, and (F) 0.01-10 parts by weight of a ceramide.
  • A 10-50 parts by weight of one or more polyglycerin fatty acid esters with an HLB of 10-18, obtained from a polyglycerin and a fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms
  • B 1-30
  • WO 2005/065630 A1 discloses a monophase microemulsion composition
  • a monophase microemulsion composition comprising (A) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, (B) a lipophilic nonionic surfactant, (C) oil, (D) an aqueous solvent immiscible with the oil, in which the critical micell concentration (c. m. c) of hydrophilic nonionic surfactant is higher than that in water, and (E) water.
  • WO 2004/045566 discloses a semitransparent cosmetic consisting of an O/W emulsion which comprises (a) a ceramide, (b) an oil component, (c) a nonionic surfactant, and (d) water and has a mean particle diameter of 100 to 300 nm.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, which has an improved penetration property of the cosmetic active ingredients, is stable and presents good skin feeling.
  • the inventors have found that such an object can be achieved by a unique combination of two specific gums.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase, gellan gum and at least one nonionic guar gum modified by linear or branched C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups, wherein the weight ratio of gellan gum to the nonionic guar gum is from 1 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 20.
  • the composition according to the present invention does not contain any metal ion donor.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • Fig. 1 shows the fluorescence intensity in stratum corneum of composition of invention formula I varies with time.
  • Fig. 2 shows the fluorescence intensity in stratum corneum of composition of comparative formula 3 varies with time.
  • a combination of gellan gum and at least one nonionic guar gum modified by linear or branched C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups in a weight ratio from 1 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 20 can surprisingly improve the penetration property of an active ingredient through keratin material, and thus improve its bio-availability, meanwhile a cosmetic compostion comprising such a combination is stable and presents good skin feeling.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase, gellan gum and at least one nonionic guar gum modified by linear or branched C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups, wherein the weight ratio of gellan gum to the nonionic guar gum is from 1 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 20.
  • keratin material is intended to cover human skin.
  • Human skin in particular skin of face, neck, back and hand is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as further illustrated below.
  • the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50%to 99%by weight, preferably from 60%to 95%by weight, more preferably from 70%to 95%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises gellan gum.
  • Gellan gum is a bacterial exopolysaccharide, discovered through the screening of thousands of bacteria and prepared commercially by aerobic submerged fermentation from Sphingomonas elodea. In the native state, gellan gum is highly acylated.
  • Gellan gum has a recurring tetrasaccharide structure composed of (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamose) units.
  • Partial structure of gellan gum is as follows:
  • a gum of this type is marketed by the company “KELCO” under the tradename “KELCOGEL” , and is suitable.
  • the purified gellan gum sold under the tradename “KELCOGEL CG (Personal Care) ” by the company “KELCO” is also suitable.
  • gellan gum presents in the composition according to the present invention in amount ranging from 0.1%to 1.0%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 0.8%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 0.7%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic guar gum modified by linear or branched C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • nonionic guar gums can be in the composition of the present invention, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl guar gum, hydroxyethyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gumand hydroxybutyl guar gum, in particular those having a molar mass ranging from 10,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol.
  • guar gums are well known in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxide, with a guar gum, so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups, i.e. hydroxypropyl guar gum.
  • the nonionic guar gum is hydroxypropyl guar gum.
  • hydroxypropyl guars mention may be made of Jaguar HP 105 sold by the company Rhodia.
  • the nonionic guar gum presents in the composition according to the present invention in amount ranging from 0.1%to 2.0%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of gellan gum to the nonionic guar gum is between 1 ⁇ 1 and 1 ⁇ 10, preferably between 1 ⁇ 1 and 1 ⁇ 5, more preferably between 1 ⁇ 1 and 1 ⁇ 3.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an active ingredient commonly used in cosmetic field.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one active ingredient having an effect on the skin, such antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, bleaching agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-ageing agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatories, refreshing agents, cicatrizing agents, vascular protective agents, antibacterials, antifungals, exfoliating agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, desensitizing agents, immunomodulators and nourishing agents, moisture absorbers, soothing active ingredients and sebum absorbing ingredients.
  • active ingredient having an effect on the skin such antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, bleaching agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-ageing agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatories, refreshing agents, cicatrizing agents
  • the active ingredient contained in the composition according to the present invention is water-soluble.
  • the cosmetic composition may include at least one water-soluble active agent chosen from ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components having a tautening effect, ⁇ -hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucroses and their derivatives, glycerin, glycol, methyl gluceth-20, tocopherol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, sodium citrate, citric acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B 2 , B 6 , H and PP, panthenol, folic acid, salicylic acid, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, kojic acid and hydroquinone.
  • water-soluble active agent chosen from ascorbic acid
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises salicylic acid as exfoliating agent.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol as anti-aging agent.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises sodium hyaluronate as moisturizer.
  • compositions invention may be present in the compositions invention according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present comprises at least one anti-aging agent, for example, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and at least one moisturizer, for example, sodium hyaluronate.
  • at least one anti-aging agent for example, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol
  • at least one moisturizer for example, sodium hyaluronate.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • adjuvants examples include preservative agents, fillers, pH-adjusting agents, fragrances, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.
  • Suitable preservative agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition.
  • glycerin containing compounds e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol
  • parabens methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben,
  • preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present includes benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid as preserving agents.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present includes an pH adjusting agent, for example L-arginine.
  • adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention does not contain any metal ion (such as Ca 2+ , Na + , K + ) donor, for examples those often used in combination with gellan gum.
  • metal ion such as Ca 2+ , Na + , K +
  • composition not containing any metal ion donor according to the present invention has improved sensory when applied to the keratin materials, for example the skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase, from 0.3%to 0.7%by weight of gellan gum and from 0.3%to 1.0%by weight of hydroxypropyl guar gum, wherein the weight ratio of gellan gum to the hydroxypropyl guar gum is from 1 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 3.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase, from 0.3%to 0.7%by weight of gellan gum and 0.3%to 1.0%by weight of hydroxypropyl guar gum, wherein the weight ratio of gellan gum to the hydroxypropyl guar gum is from 1 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 3, wherein the composition does not contain any metal ion donor.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a solution.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
  • Composition of comparative formula 1 comprises CARRAGEENAN instead of GELLAN GUM.
  • Composition of comparative formula 2 comprises XANTHAN GUM instead of HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR.
  • Composition of comparative formula 3 represents a cosmetic product in the form of an emulsion with AMPS (AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) in the market.
  • AMPS AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
  • composition in invention formula 1 was prepared as follows:
  • compositions of comparative formulas 1-3 were prepared similarly based on the ingredients used and their nature.
  • compositions of invention formula 1 and comparative formula 3 were evaluated with a confocal laser scanning microscope, using an ex-vivo protocol as follow:
  • Fig. 1 shows the fluorescence intensity in stratum corneum of composition of invention formula I varies with time.
  • Fig. 2 shows the fluorescence intensity in stratum corneum of composition of comparative formula 3 varies with time.
  • Panel 5 women, all skin types
  • the panellists were asked to score for the skin sensory after application based on the following standards, wherein sensory includes watery, greasy, slippery and sticky feeling.
  • compositions of the invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1 were evaluated for compositions of the invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1 based on the variation on viscosity and aspect.
  • Item Inv. 1 Comp. 1 T0 viscosity at 25°C (UD) M3 33.2 M3 26.4 T0 aspect Transparent gel Transparent gel T2M viscosity at 25°C (U D) M3 31.5 M3 23.1 T2M viscosity at 45°C (U D) M3 30.7 M3 16.3 T2M aspect at 25°C Transparent gel Transparent gel T2M aspect of at 45°C Transparent gel Transparent fluid gel
  • composition according to invention formula 1 was more stable on viscosity.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique et un procédé cosmétique de soin des matières kératiniques, la composition cosmétique comprenant, dans une phase aqueuse, de la gomme gellane et au moins une gomme de guar non ionique modifiée par des groupes hydroxyalkyle C 1-C 6 linéaires ou ramifiés, le rapport de poids entre la gomme gellane et la gomme de guar non ionique étant compris entre 1:1 et 1:20.
PCT/CN2019/108950 2019-09-29 2019-09-29 Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques Ceased WO2021056522A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2019/108950 WO2021056522A1 (fr) 2019-09-29 2019-09-29 Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques
CN201980100831.7A CN114401770A (zh) 2019-09-29 2019-09-29 用于护理角蛋白材料的化妆品组合物

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2019/108950 WO2021056522A1 (fr) 2019-09-29 2019-09-29 Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques

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PCT/CN2019/108950 Ceased WO2021056522A1 (fr) 2019-09-29 2019-09-29 Composition cosmétique pour le soin des matières kératiniques

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WO (1) WO2021056522A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023112544A1 (fr) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
JP2023090303A (ja) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-29 ロレアル 油、水溶性アルコール及び非イオン性グアーガムを含む組成物
FR3131692A1 (fr) * 2022-01-13 2023-07-14 L'oreal Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20010033846A1 (en) * 1998-07-30 2001-10-25 L'oreal Solid cosmetic composition and uses thereof
CN101014387A (zh) * 2004-08-19 2007-08-08 欧莱雅 包含非聚合物硅氧烷接枝物的多糖化合物的化妆品应用
CN104066422A (zh) * 2011-11-25 2014-09-24 欧莱雅 着色乳剂
CN105814168A (zh) * 2013-12-12 2016-07-27 Omya国际股份公司 改进的凝胶稳定性
CN107750153A (zh) * 2015-04-02 2018-03-02 欧莱雅 用于处理头发的组合物和方法
WO2018163176A1 (fr) * 2017-03-07 2018-09-13 Yissum Research Development Company Of The Hebrew University Of Jerusalem Ltd Systèmes d'administration topique pour composés actifs

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2772599B1 (fr) * 1997-12-19 2000-01-28 Oreal Composition cosmetique et ses utilisations
JP3933805B2 (ja) * 1998-10-06 2007-06-20 株式会社ナリス化粧品 粘性または、固形水系化粧料
ITMI20041731A1 (it) * 2004-09-10 2004-12-10 Sa Fo Sa Srl Composizione cosmetica solida per uso topico

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20010033846A1 (en) * 1998-07-30 2001-10-25 L'oreal Solid cosmetic composition and uses thereof
CN101014387A (zh) * 2004-08-19 2007-08-08 欧莱雅 包含非聚合物硅氧烷接枝物的多糖化合物的化妆品应用
CN104066422A (zh) * 2011-11-25 2014-09-24 欧莱雅 着色乳剂
CN105814168A (zh) * 2013-12-12 2016-07-27 Omya国际股份公司 改进的凝胶稳定性
CN107750153A (zh) * 2015-04-02 2018-03-02 欧莱雅 用于处理头发的组合物和方法
WO2018163176A1 (fr) * 2017-03-07 2018-09-13 Yissum Research Development Company Of The Hebrew University Of Jerusalem Ltd Systèmes d'administration topique pour composés actifs

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023112544A1 (fr) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-22 L'oreal Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
JP2023090303A (ja) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-29 ロレアル 油、水溶性アルコール及び非イオン性グアーガムを含む組成物
FR3131692A1 (fr) * 2022-01-13 2023-07-14 L'oreal Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique

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