WO2022258494A1 - Hair dyeing process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, of a polymer bearing a carboxylic group and of a non-silicone fatty substance - Google Patents
Hair dyeing process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, of a polymer bearing a carboxylic group and of a non-silicone fatty substance Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022258494A1 WO2022258494A1 PCT/EP2022/065117 EP2022065117W WO2022258494A1 WO 2022258494 A1 WO2022258494 A1 WO 2022258494A1 EP 2022065117 W EP2022065117 W EP 2022065117W WO 2022258494 A1 WO2022258494 A1 WO 2022258494A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- Hair dyeing process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, of a polymer bearing a carboxylic group and of a non-silicone fatty substance
- the present invention relates to a hair dyeing process, comprising the application of a composition A and of a composition B to hair keratin fibres, in which composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound and composition B comprises at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one non-silicone fatty substance and at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and in which composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres.
- the present invention also relates to a hair colouring composition and also to a hair colouring device.
- Another colouring method consists in using pigments. Specifically, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibres generally makes it possible to obtain colourings that are visible on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the natural colour of the fibre. However, the colourings obtained via this colouring method have the drawback of having poor resistance to shampoo washing and also to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and/or rubbing.
- temporary hair colour compositions may moreover have working qualities that are not entirely satisfactory, notably in terms of texture, and ease and/or uniformity of spreading on the head of hair.
- the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair colouring process, which has the advantage of obtaining a smooth and uniform coloured coating on the hair, while at the same time forming a coating that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing and to the various attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected such as brushing and/or friction without degradation of the hair, and in which the compositions used in the context of said process have good stability over time and good working qualities, notably in terms of texture, and of ease and/or uniformity of spreading on the head of hair.
- composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound
- composition B comprises:
- composition A and/or composition B comprising at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances and at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and in which composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres.
- a hair colouring composition C is obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of at least one composition A as defined previously and of at least one composition B as defined previously.
- the hair colouring composition C obtained by mixing composition A and composition B, is applied to the hair keratin fibres.
- composition A as defined previously and composition B as defined previously are applied simultaneously to the hair keratin fibres, without prior mixing.
- composition A and composition B are applied sequentially to the hair keratin fibres, composition A possibly being applied to the hair keratin fibres before composition B, or vice versa.
- the present invention also relates to a device for colouring the hair, comprising at least two compartments containing: in a first compartment (El), a composition A as defined previously; and in a second compartment (E2), a composition B as defined previously; optionally, in a third compartment (E3), a composition D as defined below.
- coloured coatings are obtained on the hair that make it possible to obtain a colouring that is visible on all types of hair in a manner that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing, while at the same time preserving the physical qualities of the hair keratin fibres.
- Such a coating may be resistant to the external attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected, such as blow-drying and perspiration. It makes it possible in particular to obtain a smooth and uniform deposit and improvement of the disentangling at the time of drying the hair fibres.
- compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention have good working qualities, in particular in terms of ease and uniformity of spreading on the hair, while at the same time minimizing any problems of running.
- the term "colouring that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing” means that the colouring obtained persists after one shampoo wash, preferably after three shampoo washes, more preferentially after five shampoo washes.
- the invention is not limited to the illustrated examples.
- the characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
- an "alkyl” radical denotes a linear or branched saturated radical containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
- an "aminoaikyi” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NFI2 group;
- hydroxy alkyl radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OFI group;
- an "alkylene” radical denotes a linear or branched divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based group such as methylene, ethylene or propylene;
- cycloalkyl or "alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a cyclic saturated monocyclic or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group; - a "cycloalkylene" radical denotes a
- an "aryl” radical is a monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, fused or non-fused, unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon-based cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms; preferably, the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl; preferably, the aryl group represents phenyl;
- an "ary!ene” radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl” as defined previously; preferably, arylene represents phenylene;
- heterocyclic radical denotes a saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, including from 3 to 20 ring members, preferably between 5 and 10 ring members, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
- heterocycloalkylene radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic” as defined previously;
- an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously;
- an "alkoxy” radical denotes an "alkyl-oxy" radical with "alkyl” as defined previously;
- an "acyloxy" radical denotes an ester radical R-C(0)-0- with R being an alkyl group as defined previously;
- a "reactive" group is a group that is capable of forming a covalent bond with another identical or different group, by chemical reaction.
- hair keratin fibres particularly means the hair.
- Composition A according to the invention used in the context of the colouring process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
- the composition may comprise at least two different (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.
- (poly)carbodiimide compound means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide groups, preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferentially at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably between 100 and 150, more preferentially about 100.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, croton
- the reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be side or end groups.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more end groups different from carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more end groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
- - Xi and X independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Ri and R independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may comprise one or more heteroatoms; in particular, Ri and R independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon- based radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyle
- - n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000 and preferably from 1 to 100;
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (la) below: in which:
- - Xi and C independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group
- - Yi and Y independently represent a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated to C aliphatic group or a C 6 to C aromatic or alkylaromatic group, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pendent heteroatoms, such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
- - Zi and Z independently represent a reactive end group or an inert end group
- Zi and Z may represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic Ci to C 5 o aliphatic group, or a C 6 to Cig aromatic group, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and combinations thereof, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and h comprise a bonding group CG connecting Zi to Yi and h to Y , the group CG possibly being a single covalent bond, a saturated C-C bond, an unsaturated covalent C-C bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
- Zi and Z may be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoal kylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups;
- - Q represents an organopolymer or an organooligomer comprising repeating units of saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic groups, or of aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled via carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea repeating bonds or combinations thereof;
- - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic radical containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally comprise one or more non- pendent heteroatoms such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain;
- - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
- - m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
- - m' denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
- Zi and Z independently represent a reactive end group; more preferentially, Zi and Z independently represent a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoal kylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups.
- Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are sold, for example, by the company Stahl B.V, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds sold under the name Carbodilite with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW- 12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below: (II) in which:
- - Xi and X 2 independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- - Ri and R 2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
- - Li independently represents a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C1 5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- - E independently represents a group chosen from:
- R 3 and R 4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- hydrocarbon-based radical independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
- hydrocarbon-based radical means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 200 carbon atoms.
- the hydrocarbon-based radical is a saturated linear radical.
- the hydrocarbon-based radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
- the hydrocarbon-based radical may be interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, S or N and/or substituted with one or more cations, anions or zwitterions or cationic groups such as ammonium, anionic groups such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic groups, and/or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.
- heteroatomfs means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, and also halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon-based radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from groups (i) to (iv) below:
- Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; preferably, Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R12 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
- Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R13 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
- Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
- Rg is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rio is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
- R13 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R14 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
- Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R 13 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferentially from 2 to 20.
- z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferentially from 2 to 20.
- w is equal to 1.
- w is equal to 1
- n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.
- U is chosen from a Ci-Cig divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical such as methylene, ethylene and propylene, a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, a C 3 -C 12 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
- a Ci-Cig divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical such as methylene, ethylene and propylene
- a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene
- a C 3 -C 12 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene
- a C6-Ci4arylene group such as phen
- U may be chosen from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis(8-isocyanatooctyl)-l,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'- dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5- napththylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
- U is chosen from a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical or a C 6 -C 14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:
- U is 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane corresponding to formula (VIII) below:
- U when U is a C 6 -C 14 arylene group, U is not the m- tetramethylxylylene radical represented by formula (IX) below:
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- R 3 and R 4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- - R 5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms; and - R 6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
- R 3 and R 4 are independently chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C 3 - C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- arylene radical such as phenylene
- C 3 - C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene
- Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- R 3 and R 4 are independently chosen from a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
- R 5 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- arylene radical such as phenylene
- C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene
- Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- R 6 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Q-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- arylene radical such as phenylene
- C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene
- Q-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- E represents a group -O-R 3 -O- in which R 3 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- E represents a group -O-R 3 -O- in which R 3 represents a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from a-methylstyryl isocyanates of formula (X) below:
- R independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.
- alkyl group is as defined previously.
- cycloalkyl group is as defined previously.
- n may denote an integer ranging from 2to 50, preferably from 3 to 30 and even more preferentially from 5 to 10.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XI) below:
- R independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
- alkyl group the "cycloalkyl group” and the "aryl group” are as defined previously.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (II) in which:
- - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, more preferentially the compound of formula (VI) as described previously in which Ri3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R M represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z when they are present, denote an integer ranging from lto 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical when it is present, is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C 6 -C 14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical;
- Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical when it is present, is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C 6 -C 14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical;
- - E when it is present, independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R 4 -S-; -R5-N(R 6 )-R 4 -N(R 6 )-R5-; in which R 3 and R 4 are independently chosen from a C 6 -Ci 4 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- R 5 when it is present, is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 - C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R 6 when it is present, is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- - Xi and X 2 independently represent an oxygen atom
- Ri and R 2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
- n+z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C 6 -C 14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- - E independently represents a group chosen from:
- R 3 and R 4 are independently chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- R 5 when R 5 is not a covalent bond, R 5 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R 6 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- - Xi and X 2 independently represent an oxygen atom
- Ri and R 2 are, independently, monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed;
- - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- - Li is a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical;
- - E independently represents a group chosen from:
- R 3 and R 4 are independently chosen from a C 6 -Ci 4 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- R 5 when R 5 is not a covalent bond, R 5 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R 6 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- - Xi and X 2 independently represent an oxygen atom
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- - Li is a C 3 -C 15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane;
- R 3 is chosen from a C 6 -C 14 arylene radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which:
- - Xi and X 2 independently represent an oxygen atom
- - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane; and
- - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
- the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XII) below:
- U 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10
- E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci- Ci 8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms
- r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
- the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s), present in composition A according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even better still from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
- the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s), present in the hair colour composition C according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
- Composition B according to the invention used in the context of the hair colouring process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group.
- the polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
- composition B comprises one ormore polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
- the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
- composition B comprises one or more polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
- the dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition.
- dispersions mention may be made of latices.
- the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles.
- polyurethane(s) present in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention result from the reaction of:
- - Ri represents a divalent radical of a dihydroxylated compound
- - R2 represents a radical of an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate
- R3 represents a radical of a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted with one or more ionic groups
- - n represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5
- R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical which is not substituted with one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups
- R 5 represents an alkylene radical substituted with one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups.
- dihydroxylated compounds of high molecular weight mention may be made of polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, polyhydroxylated polyacetates, polyhydroxylated polyacrylates, polyhydroxylated amide polyesters, polyhydroxylated polyalkadienes, polyhydroxylated polythioethers, and mixtures thereof.
- the hydroxylated compounds are chosen from polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, and mixtures thereof.
- the polyisocyanates that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from organic diisocyanates with a molecular weight of about 112 to 1000, and preferably about 140 to 400.
- the polyisocyanates are chosen from diisocyanates and more particularly from those represented by the general formula R2(NCO)2, in which R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon- based group containing from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms.
- R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon- based group containing from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms.
- R2 represents an organic diisocyanate.
- organic diisocyanates the following may notably be chosen: tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 1,3-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 1,4-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 3- isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane, l,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4- bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, bis(4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)methane, isomers of toluene diisocyanate (TDI) such as toluene 2,4-di
- the diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates, and are more preferentially chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5- trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
- low molecular weight diol refers to a diol with a molecular weight from about 62 to 700, and preferably from 62 to 200.
- These diols may comprise aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferably, they comprise only aliphatic groups.
- R 3 represents a low molecular weight diol containing more than 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4- butanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, butylethylpropanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,4- cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,6-hexanediol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof.
- the low molecular weight diols may optionally comprise ionic or potentially ionic groups.
- Examples of low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are notably described in patent US 3412054.
- Such compounds are preferably chosen from dimethylolbutanoic acid, dimethylolpropionic acid, polycaprolactone diols containing a carboxyl group, and mixtures thereof.
- low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are used, they are preferably used in an amount such that less than 0.30 meq of COOH per gram of polyurethane is present in the polyurethane dispersion.
- the prepolymer is extended by means of two families of chain extenders.
- the first family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (B).
- the chain extenders of formula (B) are preferably chosen from alkylenediamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, piperazine; alkylene oxide diamines, such as 3- ⁇ 2-[2-(3-aminopropoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy ⁇ propylamine (also known as dipropylamine diethylene glycol or DPA-DEG available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis.), 2-methyl-l,5-pentanediamine (Dytec A from DuPont), hexanediamine, isophorone diamine, 4,4-methylenedi(cyclohexylamine), ether-amines of the DPA series, available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis., such as dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripropylene glycol, dipropylamine polypropylene glycol), dipropylamine
- the second family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (C).
- Such compounds preferably have an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups that can react with isocyanate groups.
- Such compounds may optionally comprise two groups that react with isocyanate groups and one group which is ionic or capable of forming an ionic group.
- the ionic or potentially ionic group may preferably be chosen from ternary or quaternary ammonium groups or groups that can be converted into such groups, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group.
- the at least partial conversion of groups that can be converted into a ternary or quaternary ammonium group salt may be performed before or during the mixing with water.
- the chain extenders of formula (C) are preferably chosen from diaminosulfonates, for instance the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA), the sodium salt of N-(2- aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- ASA N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid
- ASA sodium salt of N-(2- aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid
- the polyurethane that may be used according to the present invention may optionally also comprise compounds which are located, respectively, at the chain ends and terminate said chains (chain terminators). Such compounds are notably described in patents US 7445770 and/or US 7452770.
- the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s at 23°C, more preferentially less than 1500, and even better still less than 1000. Even more preferably, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a glass transition temperature of less than 0°C.
- the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a polyurethane (or active material, or solids) content, on the basis of the weight of the dispersion, of from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 25% to 55% by weight and even better still from 30% to 50% by weight.
- a polyurethane content dry matter
- the polyurethane content (dry matter) of the aqueous dispersion is preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 25% to 55% by weight and even better still from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
- the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than or equal to -25°C, preferably less than -35°C and more preferentially less than -40°C.
- Tg glass transition temperature
- the polyurethane particles may have a mean diameter ranging up to about 1000 nm, for example from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, better still from about 100 nm to about 500 nm. These particle sizes may be measured with a laser particle size analyser (for example Brookhaven BI90).
- a laser particle size analyser for example Brookhaven BI90.
- Baycusan ® As non-limiting examples of aqueous polyurethane dispersions, mention may be made of those sold under the name Baycusan ® by Bayer, for instance Baycusan ® C1000 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan ® ClOOl (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan ® C1003 (INCI name: polyurethane-32), Baycusan ® C1004 (INCI name: polyurethane-35) and Baycusan ® C1008 (INCI name: polyurethane- 48).
- aqueous polyurethane dispersions of isophthalic acid/adipic acid copolymer/hexylene glycol/neopentyl glycol/dimethylol acid/isophorone diisocyanate (INCI name: Polyurethane-1, such as Luviset ® PUR, BASF), the polyurethane of polycarbonate, polyurethane and aliphatic polyurethane of aliphatic polyester (such as the Neorez ® series, DSM, such as Neorez ® R989, Neorez ® and R-2202).
- the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of particles of compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-35 or compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-34.
- the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of acrylic polymers, more preferentially in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
- polymer means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these unit(s) are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
- film-forming polymer refers to a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, notably on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
- acrylic polymer means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
- the unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), notably of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salt(s), or organic base salt(s).
- the (meth)acrylic acid esters are advantageously chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular Ci to C30, preferably Ci to C20 and better still Ci to C10 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C 6 to C10 aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2 to C 6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
- alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
- hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2- hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
- aryl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
- the (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are alkyl, preferably Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, even better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylates.
- the alkyl group of the esters may be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
- (meth)acrylic acid amides examples that may be mentioned include (meth)acrylamides and also N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular N-(C2 to C12 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides.
- N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides examples that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t- octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
- the acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, better still a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of (meth)acrylic acid esters.
- the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylate.
- the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise any surfactant.
- surfactant refers to any agent that is capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
- acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name Luvimer MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer sold under the trade name Fixate Superhold Polymer by the company Lubrizol, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name Daitosol 3000VP3 by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo, or the compound Acrylate Polymer sold under the trade name Daitosol 3000 SLPN-PE1 by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.
- copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name Luvimer MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer sold under the trade
- the acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
- styrene monomers in particular styrene and a-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
- the acrylic polymer may be a styrene/(meth)acrylate copolymer and notably a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one Ci to C20, preferably Ci to C10, alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.
- the Ci to C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
- acrylic polymer mention may be made of the styrene/(meth)acrylate copolymers sold under the name Joncryl 77 by the company BASF, under the name Yodosol GFI41F by the company Akzo Nobel and under the name Syntran 5760 CG by the company Interpolymer.
- composition B comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.
- composition B comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylate.
- the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer (or active material, or solids) content, on the basis of the weight of the dispersion, of from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 22% to 55% by weight and better still from 25% to 50% by weight.
- the total amount of the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, present in composition B preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
- the total amount of the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
- the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
- the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
- the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
- the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
- composition A and/or B comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, i.e. a fatty substance not comprising any silicon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or B.
- non-silicone fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms.
- the non-silicone fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- oil means a "fatty substance” that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, non-silicone waxes other than solid fatty alcohols and than solid synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.
- fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly bear at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® , and mixtures thereof.
- C6-C16 lower alkanes they are linear or branched, or possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
- the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.
- liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, more
- the fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ® PCI and Flutec ® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ® by the company 3M.
- the fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty acids that may be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid.
- the fatty acid(s) are in a form not salified with organic or mineral bases in the composition of the invention.
- esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned previously and the plant waxes, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
- dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate;
- esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Cl- C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
- esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate and cetyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobuty
- composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
- sugar esters refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms.
- sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
- suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
- the sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
- esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, notably, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
- monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate or oleostearate.
- esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
- sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ® PSE.
- the non-silicone wax(es) other than solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters are notably chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are notably marine waxes, such as the wax sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
- the fatty substance(s) do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylenated units; in particular, they do not contain any oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated and/or glycerolated units.
- the non-silicone fatty substances are preferably chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, fatty acids or mixtures thereof, more preferentially from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, preferably of C12-C22 and preferentially C14-C18.
- the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- the fatty substance(s) are present in composition B and preferably only in composition B.
- composition C resulting from the mixing of composition A and composition B is applied to the hair
- the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
- composition A and/or composition B used in the context of the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
- composition A and/or B comprises at least one pigment, optionally one or more direct dyes.
- the colouring agent is present in composition B. According to a preferred variant, the colouring agent is present only in composition B.
- composition B according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.
- composition B comprises at least one pigment, optionally one or more direct dyes.
- composition B is as defined previously and composition A contains neither any pigment nor any direct dye.
- pigment refers to any pigment that gives colour to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
- the pigments that may be used are notably chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
- They may be natural, of natural origin, or non-natural.
- These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated.
- the pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
- the pigment may be a mineral pigment.
- mineral pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
- mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
- the pigment may be an organic pigment.
- organic pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
- the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
- the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained
- pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
- the pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184426.
- These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
- the organic pigment may also be a lake.
- the term "lake” refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
- the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
- D&C Red 21 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green 5 (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
- the pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
- pigments with special effects means pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from coloured pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
- pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
- pigments with special effects include nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium and with iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- Nacreous pigments that may be mentioned include the nacres Cellini sold by BASF (mica-TiC -lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiC ), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe 2 0s) and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-Ti0 2 -Fe 2 0s).
- particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
- Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
- nacres examples include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, notably those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
- the pigments with special effects may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. notably from particles whose size, structure, notably the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light.
- This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. brighter points that contrast with their environment, making them appear to sparkle.
- the reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
- These particles may have varied forms and may notably be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
- the reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material.
- the reflective particles may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, notably titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
- the reflective particles may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, notably a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, notably of at least one metal or metallic material.
- the substrate may be made of one or more organic and/or mineral materials.
- glasses More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
- the reflective material may include a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
- Reflective particles are notably described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A- 10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
- reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal
- Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal.
- Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
- Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
- a metal substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium
- said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
- Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with S1O2 sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
- Pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Flelicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek).
- Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
- pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
- the size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
- the pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
- the dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation.
- This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments.
- These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
- esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or else polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
- poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Hen
- dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
- Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia
- polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
- the pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
- the pigments surface-treated beforehand that are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been completely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those described notably in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.
- organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, notably polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
- waxes for example carnauba wax and beeswax
- the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
- the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
- the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
- the organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
- the surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is notably described in patent US 4578266.
- An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
- the agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
- the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
- PEG-silicone treatment for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
- methicone treatment for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
- dimethicone treatment for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment for instance the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a magnesium myristate treatment for instance the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;
- an aluminium dimyristate treatment for instance the Ml surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- an isostearyl sebacate treatment for instance the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment for instance the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane/perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment for instance the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer treatment for instance the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment for instance the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer treatment for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
- PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
- the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in submicron-sized particulate form in composition B.
- submicron-sized or “submicronic” refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization method and having a mean particle size of less than a micrometre (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
- the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better still between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
- the dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of amino silicone type.
- suitable dispersants that may be mentioned are: amino silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those sold under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers, silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, sold by Evonik, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones bearing carboxyl groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP
- the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type and are cationic.
- the pigment(s) are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
- the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
- the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
- direct dye means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
- the direct dyes are generally at least partially soluble in water and/or a solvent.
- They may be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.
- Suitable direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
- the direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (III) and (IV) and the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) below:
- Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with at least one (Ci-Cg)alkyl group such as methyl;
- Ar + represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-Cg)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;
- Ar represents an aryl group, notably phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkoxy, iii) (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-Cg)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(Ci-Cg)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci- Cg)alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
- - Ar represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more (Ci-Cg)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino, (Ci-Cg)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
- Ra and Rb which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Cg)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het + and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
- - Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
- R 1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl
- R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;
- R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci- Cg)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkoxy, or (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R 4 is a hydrogen atom;
- - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH
- - Q- is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide, such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
- the dyes of formulae (V) and (VI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof with Q' being an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
- the direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes.
- the anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
- the term "anionic direct dye” means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CC3 ⁇ 4R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
- the anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
- R 7 , Re, R9, Rio, R'7, R's, R'9 and R'io which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl, alkoxy, alkylthio, hydroxyl, mercapto, nitro, nitroso;
- X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, IVT and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined previously;
- - cycloalkyl notably cyclohexyl
- Ar-N N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or phenylamino groups;
- R 7 with Rg or Rg with Rg or Rg with Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R' 7 with R'g or R'g with R'g or R'g with R'io together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'- C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M + , R°, X, X', X" and
- W represents a sigma bond o, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i)-NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Raand Rb together form a cyclohexyl; it being understood that formulae (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M + on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (IX) mention may be made of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food Yellow 3 or Sunset Yellow; and as examples of dyes of formula (IX'), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (X) and (C'): in which formulae (X)
- Rii, Ri 2 and R 13 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0) 2 S(0 ), M + with M + as defined previously;
- - Ri 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 , M + with M + as defined previously;
- - Ri 5 represents a hydrogen atom
- - Ri 6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i 6 is absent, or alternatively R I5 with Ri 6 together form a double bond;
- Ri7 and Rig which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- Ar-0-S(0) 2 - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
- R'i 6 , R'i9 and R'20 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group
- R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
- Ra and Rb which may be identical or different, are as defined previously; preferentially, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
- - Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group
- formulae (X) and (C') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M + on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (X) mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as an example of a dye of formula (C'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (XI) and (CG):
- R 22 , R 23 , R 24 , R 25 , R 26 and R 27 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- - Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR 28 R 29 with R 28 and R 29 , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloalkyl; notably cyclohexyl;
- - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'2sR'29 with R'28 and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XI) and (CG) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical C(0)0, M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (XI) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet No. 2; and, as an example of a dye of formula (CG), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48. d) the nitro dyes of formulae (XII) and (CIG):
- R31 and R32 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
- R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom
- Rc and Rd which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
- W is as defined previously; W particularly represents an -NH- group;
- ALK represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C6 alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a - CH2-CH2- group;
- - p represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 5;
- J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro
- J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0) m - with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents an -SO2- radical;
- - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XII) and (XI I') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 , M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (XII) mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (CIG), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4- dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"- hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4- -hydroxyethylamino-3- nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII): (XIII), in which formula (XIII):
- R33, R34, R35 and R36 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom ora group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0) m S(0 )-, M + with M + and m as defined previously;
- R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: G; with G optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'- C(X)- and ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M + , R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously; in particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + ; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it
- dyes of formula (XIII) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50. f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (XIV):
- R 45 , R 46 , R 47 and R 48 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
- R 49 , R 50 , R 51 and R 52 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- R 49 , R 50 , R 51 and R 52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
- - L represents an alkoxide O, M + ; a thioalkoxide S , M + or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + as defined previously; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
- L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: I TRfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0) m S(0 )-, M + groups with m and M + as defined previously;
- Q and Q' which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
- dyes of formula (XIV) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (XV):
- R53, R5 4 , R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
- formula (XIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M + ; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (XV) mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74; h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (XVI):
- R 6I represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
- R62, R63 and R64 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; or alternatively R 6i with R62, or R 6i with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; it being understood that formula (XVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )-, M + , preferentially sodium sulfonate.
- dyes of formula (XVI) mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
- the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
- the colouring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- the pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- the direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- the colouring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
- the pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
- the direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
- compositions A and B also comprises at least one silicone, different from the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group described previously.
- This silicone may be chosen from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
- the silicones may be solid or liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa), and volatile or non-volatile.
- the silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
- Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
- one and/or the other of the compositions A and B contains one or more silicones that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- cyclomethylsiloxane Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane. Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
- cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l,r-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10 s m 2 /s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
- non-volatile silicones mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
- the non-volatile silicones are chosen from polydimethyl/methylsiloxanes which are optionally oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
- the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
- the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.
- organopolysiloxanes including:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;
- C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;
- hydroxylated groups for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732; - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil ® S201 and Abil ® S255;
- the silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.
- polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- CTFA dimethiconol
- Products which may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- CTFA dimethiconol
- CTFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
- CTFA dimethiconol
- CTFA dimethicone
- the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes that are linear and/or branched and that have a viscosity ranging from lxlO 5 to 5xl0 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
- oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
- one and/or the other of the compositions A and B comprises at least one amino silicone.
- amino silicone denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
- the weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent.
- the columns used are m styragel columns.
- the eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 mI of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
- the amino silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
- - G which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cg alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cg alkoxy, for example methoxy;
- - a which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
- - b denotes 0 or 1
- - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- R' which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-Q-N(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C r hh r , r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide anion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
- R which may be identical or different, denote
- the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).
- the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G) below.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below: in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/a I koxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below: in which:
- - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- Ri and R2 which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
- the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
- the hydroxy/a I koxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
- the commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones the structure of which is different from formula (D) or (E).
- a product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ® ADM 652.
- a product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300 ® or under the name Belsil ® ADM LOG 1.
- the oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
- the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
- the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm.
- use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included).
- use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E ® or SLM 28020 ® by the company Wacker.
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (F) below: in which:
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
- Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning (INCI name: amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).
- the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (G) below: in which:
- n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1,999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
- a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H): in which:
- R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- - F3 ⁇ 4 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cig alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cig, for example Ci-Cg, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- - Q is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate;
- - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
- R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cig alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cig, for example Ci-Cg, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Rg which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;
- - X is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
- R2, R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
- - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
- - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
- - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB) n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.
- Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:
- - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
- - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
- R which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 0CH 2 CH(0H)CH 2 - radical; preferentially, R denotes a CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 0CH 2 CH(0H)CH 2 - radical;
- R' which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 0CH 2 CH(0H)CH 2 -; preferentially, R' denotes - CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -.
- the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
- the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
- the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
- the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formula (E).
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone having the INCI name amodimethicone, preferably introduced in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone having the INCI name amodimethicone as an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants, having the INCI names trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.
- the silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- the silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
- the amino silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 15%, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
- compositions A and B used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
- organic solvents examples include lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
- polyols and polyol ethers for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether
- aromatic alcohols for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alkanols, more preferentially ethanol.
- the organic solvents may be present in a total amount inclusively between 0.01% and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 50% by weight and more preferentially inclusively between 0.1% and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
- Composition A and/or composition B according to the invention is preferably aqueous.
- the water content may range from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 98% by weight and more preferentially from 60% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
- Composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more perfumes.
- Perfumes are compositions notably containing the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991, Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
- They may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and/or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles or peroxides, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic.
- an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant starting material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold pressing).
- the essential oil is generally separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process which does not result in any significant change in the composition.
- essential oils depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its intrinsic nature.
- the "essential oil/plant starting material” yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, and richness or poorness in certain constituents.
- Steam entrainment corresponds to vaporization, in the presence of steam, of a sparingly water- miscible substance.
- the raw material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in an alambic.
- the steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essence jar), where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling.
- the aqueous distillate that remains after the steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been performed, is known as the "aromatic water” or "hydrolate” or "distilled floral water”.
- Production by dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom.
- Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
- the method of production by cold pressing applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature.
- the principle of the method is as follows: the zests are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process.
- the conventional process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation.
- the majority of industrial installations allow simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
- Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from “set” oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally less than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, distillable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
- essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang ylang; Apiaceae, for example Umbelliferae, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot or parsley;
- fragrancing substances included in the constitution of perfumes are notably: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linolool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinolool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl
- a mixture of different fragrancing substances that generate in common a note that is pleasant to the user is used.
- the fragranced composition comprises at least 1% by weight of a mixture of fragrancing substances, in particular of at least two different fragrancing substances, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least three different fragrancing substances.
- the fragrancing substances will preferably be chosen such that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: citrine, aromatic, floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, investigating, chypre, fougere, leathery, musk.
- compositions A and B used in the context of the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
- compositions A and B may notably be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a gel, an emulsion, notably an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, notably of ionic or nonionic lipids, or a two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
- O/W oil-in-water
- W/O water-in-oil
- W/O multiple emulsion
- a cream, a mousse, a stick a dispersion of vesicles, notably of ionic or nonionic lipids, or a two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
- a person skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, notably their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.
- composition A comprises a polycarbodiimide compound and composition B comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group and at least one pigment, optionally at least one direct dye.
- composition B comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group, at least one fatty substance and at least one pigment, optionally at least one direct dye.
- composition A does not contain any colouring agent and composition B is as defined previously.
- compositions A and B comprises at least one non-volatile silicone, preferably an amino silicone, for example of amodimethicone type, or a hydroxylated silicone, for example of dimethiconol type, or a hydroxylated amino silicone.
- composition A comprises a (poly)carbodiimide compound and an amino silicone and/or hydroxylated silicone.
- composition B comprises a colouring agent, at least 0.1% of non-silicone fatty substance, at least one non-silicone polymer bearing a carboxylic group.
- the hair colouring process according to the invention may also comprise a step of applying to the hair keratin fibres a composition D comprising at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group.
- carboxylic group means a COOH or COO functional group, the counterion of the COO group possibly being chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals and quaternary ammoniums.
- the silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
- Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
- the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVII) below:
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- R2 independently represents a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidine radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a group Ra-(ORb)x-COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal
- R3 independently represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group; a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or a group R a -(OR b )*-COOM with R a representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkyl
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- radicals R2 and/or R3 denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000; it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and/or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR' 3 , with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group may be chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) below:
- - R1 independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially methyl;
- - R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group R a -(OR b ) x - with R a representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially a methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group R a -(OR b ) x - with R a representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- - M represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group R a - (ORb)x- with R a representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- R3 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR' 3 , with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- R8 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl
- - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl end function, such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name Silform INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl Dimethicone).
- PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes bearing a carboxyl end function
- organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX) mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl side function, such as the compounds sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.
- PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes bearing a carboxyl side function
- organosiloxanes of formula (XXX) mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl end function, such as the compounds sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.
- PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes bearing a carboxyl end function
- organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI) mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside).
- the silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group may correspond, for example, to the compounds described in the patent application EP 186507 in the name of Chisso Corporation, introduced herein by reference.
- the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.
- silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIXa) below:
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, or even from 8 to 12 carbon atoms;
- - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- the total amount of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group, present in composition D preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.
- composition D comprises one or more oils. More preferentially, composition D comprises one or more oils chosen from alkanes.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
- the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
- volatile oil refers to an oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
- non-volatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
- the composition comprises one or more oils chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and/or mixtures thereof, these oils possibly being linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
- Cg-Ci 6 alkanes such as Cg-Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, and mixtures thereof.
- linear alkanes preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
- linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n- heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (CIO), n-undecane (Cll), n-dodecane (C12), n- tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cll) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155059 by the company Cognis.
- alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO 2008/155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.
- the composition comprises isododecane.
- isododecane sold under the reference Isododecane by Ineos.
- composition D comprises one or more oils chosen from Cg-Ci 6 alkanes, more preferentially from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and/or mixtures thereof.
- composition D comprises isododecane.
- Composition D may comprise one or more oils present in a total amount of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight and better still between 70% and 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D.
- Composition D may comprise at least one colouring agent as described previously.
- compositions A and B may be applied to hair keratin fibres, such as the hair, sequentially, in any order, or simultaneously.
- compositions A and B are applied sequentially to hair keratin fibres, such as the hair, in any order, i.e. composition A may be applied to the hair keratin fibres before composition B or vice versa.
- the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising: i) the application to hair keratin fibres of composition A or of composition B, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; composition B comprises:
- At least one polymer containing at least one carboxylic acid group as described previously, preferably a polymer bearing a carboxylic or carboxylate function, notably a poly(meth)acrylate as described previously;
- composition B at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments and direct dyes; ii) the application to said hair keratin fibres of composition B, if composition A was applied during step i) or of composition A if composition B was applied during step i).
- the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising: i) the application to hair keratin fibres of composition A or of composition B, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously, and at least one non-volatile silicone; composition B comprises:
- non-silicone fatty substances chosen from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, preferably of C12-C22;
- At least one polymer containing at least one carboxylic acid group as described previously, preferably a polymer bearing a carboxylic or carboxylate function, notably a poly(meth)acrylate as described previously;
- compositions A and B are mixed extemporaneously at the time of use to obtain the hair colour composition C.
- the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D described above may be used on wet or dry hair keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
- the hair colour composition C and composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair keratin fibres.
- composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibres after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres.
- composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibres before applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres.
- the hair keratin fibres are washed before applying the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D.
- a washing, rinsing, draining or drying step is performed after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
- a drying step is performed after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
- the application to the fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
- the application of the hair colour composition C and of the optional composition D to the hair keratin fibres is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
- the hair colour composition C After applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres, it is possible to wait for between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferentially between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before, for example, applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres or, for example, a washing, rinsing, draining or drying step.
- composition C there is no leave-on time after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
- the fibres may be left to dry or may be dried, for example at a temperature of greater than or equal to 30°C.
- the process according to the invention may thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres using a heating tool.
- the heat application step of the process of the invention may be performed using a hood, a hairdryer, a straightening iron or a curling iron.
- the heat application step of the process of the invention is performed using a hairdryer.
- the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres takes place after applying the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
- a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through.
- the temperature is preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 50°C and 90°C.
- the temperature is preferably between 110°C and 220°C, preferably between 140°C and 200°C.
- the process of the invention involves a step (bl) of applying heat using a hood, a hairdryer or a Climazon, preferably a hairdryer, and a step (b2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
- Step (bl) may be performed before step (b2).
- the fibres may be dried, for example at a temperature above or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is above 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is above 45°C and below 110°C.
- the fibres are dried, they are dried, in addition to a supply of heat, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the strand separation of the coating.
- a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through.
- the passage of the straightening or curling iron preferably the straightening iron, may be performed at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 220°C, preferably between 140°C and 200°C.
- a shaping step may be performed, for example with a straightening iron; the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
- the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising the mixing of a composition A and of a composition B to obtain a hair colour composition C, and then: i) the application to the hair keratin fibres of the hair colour composition C, in which compositions A and B are as defined previously.
- the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising the mixing of a composition A and of a composition B to obtain a hair colour composition C, and then: i) the application to the hair keratin fibres of the hair colour composition C, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; composition B comprises:
- At least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more pigments.
- the step of applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres is repeated several times.
- composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferentially from 0.2 to 5 and better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
- the present invention also relates to a device for colouring the hair, comprising at least two compartments containing:
- composition B in a second compartment (E2), a composition B according to the invention as defined previously;
- the (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible via synthetic methods known to a person skilled in the art starting from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions that are also known to a person skilled in the art. Mention may be made, for example, of the book Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4 284 730 or the Canadian patent application CA 2 509 861.
- the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention involves, in a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1):
- compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq.) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-Xi-H and then 0.5 eq. of reagent H-E-H with Ri, Xi and E as defined previously, to give the "symmetrical" compound (4) according to the invention:
- compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq.) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-Xi-H and then 1 eq. of reagent H-E-H with Ri, Xi and E as defined previously, to give compound (5):
- the (poly)carbodiimide compounds may be purified via conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration and/or chromatography.
- Example 1 Process for synthesizing the (poly)carbodiimide compound
- the reaction medium was heated at 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, the reaction being monitored by infrared spectroscopy by means of the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm 1 , and then cooled to 120°C.
- a mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol are introduced with stirring into the reaction medium.
- the temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have totally disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm 1 , and is then cooled to room temperature.
- reaction medium After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water, to give the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid.
- compositions Al, B2.1, B2.2, B2.3 and C2 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
- compositions Al, B2.1 and B2.3 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention.
- Composition C2 is a comparative composition.
- compositions Al, B3.1, B3.2, B3.3 and C3 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
- compositions A1 and B3.1 to B3.3 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention.
- Composition C3 is a comparative composition.
- composition Al and each of the compositions BX.X described above or C2 and C3 described above are mixed in a 50/50 mass ratio.
- the various mixtures are then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs, at a rate of 0.8 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
- the locks are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.
- composition D below is then applied to each lock, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition D per 1 g of hair.
- the locks are disentangled and dried with a hairdryer.
- the locks are stored at room temperature for 24 hours before evaluation.
- Composition D (the amounts are expressed as g of active material as obtained/100 g)
- the locks of hair thus dyed have good persistence with respect to repeated shampoo washing. After washing, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.
- the locks of hair were evaluated in terms of quality of use, more precisely in terms of ease of combing, by measuring the ease of passage of the comb during the drying step after dyeing and washing the locks of hair.
- composition B contains a fatty substance.
- compositions Al, B4.1, B4.2 and C4 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
- compositions Al, B4.1 and B4.2 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention.
- Composition C4 is a comparative composition.
- composition Al and each of the compositions BX.X described above or C4 described above are mixed in a 50/50 mass ratio.
- the various mixtures are then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs, at a rate of 0.8 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
- the locks are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.
- composition D described above is then applied to each lock, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition D per 1 g of hair.
- the locks are disentangled and dried with a hairdryer.
- the locks are stored at room temperature for 24 hours before evaluation.
- the locks of hair thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoo washes so as to evaluate the fastness (persistence) of the colouring obtained with respect to shampoo washes, according to the shampoo washing protocol described below.
- the coloured locks of hair are combed, moistened with water at 35°C and then passed between the fingers five times for 5 seconds. The locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers.
- a standard shampoo (Gamier Ultra Doux) is applied uniformly to the coloured locks, in a proportion of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of locks, the locks of hair being massaged gently along the length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from the root to the end.
- the locks of hair are then placed on a watch glass and left to stand for 1 minute.
- the locks of hair are rinsed with water while passing the lock between the fingers (15 passes).
- the locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo wash.
- the persistence of the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
- L* represents the intensity of the colour
- a* indicates the green/red colour axis
- b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
- the persistence of the colouring is evaluated by the colour difference DE between the coloured locks before shampooing, then after having undergone five shampoo washes according to the protocol described above.
- the DE value is calculated according to the following equation:
- L*a*b* represent the values measured after colouring the hair and after performing the shampoo washes
- L0*a0*b0* represent the values measured after colouring the hair but before shampoo washing.
- the locks of hair treated with each of the compositions A1 + B4.1 + D or A1 + B4.2+ D according to the invention and washed with five shampoo washes have lower DE values than the locks of hair treated with comparative composition A1+ C4 + D.
- compositions A1 + B4.1 + D or A1 + B4.2+ D according to the invention shows good persistence with respect to shampoo washing.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for colouring the hair, in particular the hair, comprising the application of a composition A and of a composition B to hair keratin fibres, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound, and composition B comprises at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group; composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; and at least one non-silicone fatty substance; in which composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres. The present invention also relates to a hair colouring device.
Description
Description
Title of the invention: Hair dyeing process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, of a polymer bearing a carboxylic group and of a non-silicone fatty substance
The present invention relates to a hair dyeing process, comprising the application of a composition A and of a composition B to hair keratin fibres, in which composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound and composition B comprises at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one non-silicone fatty substance and at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and in which composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres.
The present invention also relates to a hair colouring composition and also to a hair colouring device.
Technical field
In the field of colouring the hair, in particular human hair, it is already known practice to colour keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colouring, or dye precursors for permanent colouring.
There are essentially three types of process for colouring the hair: a) "permanent" colouring, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and forms the dye via an oxidative condensation process; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct colouring, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in colouring keratin fibres with colour compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary colouring, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that remains from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a "makeup" process.
For this last type of colouring, it is known practice to use coloured polymers formed by grafting one or more dyes of azo, triphenylmethane, azine, indoamine or anthraquinone nature onto a polymer chain. These coloured polymers are not entirely satisfactory, notably as regards the homogeneity of the colouring obtained and its resistance, not to mention the problems associated with their manufacture and notably with their reproducibility.
Another colouring method consists in using pigments. Specifically, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibres generally makes it possible to obtain colourings that are visible on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the natural colour of the fibre. However, the colourings obtained via this
colouring method have the drawback of having poor resistance to shampoo washing and also to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and/or rubbing.
Furthermore, temporary hair colour compositions may moreover have working qualities that are not entirely satisfactory, notably in terms of texture, and ease and/or uniformity of spreading on the head of hair.
There is thus still a need for a process for colouring the hair, notably the hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a smooth and uniform coloured coating on the hair, while at the same time forming a coating that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing and to the various attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected such as brushing and/or friction without degradation of the hair, and in which the compositions used in the context of said process have good stability over time and also good working qualities.
Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair colouring process, which has the advantage of obtaining a smooth and uniform coloured coating on the hair, while at the same time forming a coating that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing and to the various attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected such as brushing and/or friction without degradation of the hair, and in which the compositions used in the context of said process have good stability over time and good working qualities, notably in terms of texture, and of ease and/or uniformity of spreading on the head of hair.
Disclosure of the invention
One subject of the present invention is thus a process for colouring the hair, comprising the application of a composition A and of a composition B to hair keratin fibres, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound, and composition B comprises:
- at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group; and composition A and/or composition B comprising at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances and at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and in which composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres.
In one variant of the invention, a hair colouring composition C is obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of at least one composition A as defined previously and of at least one composition B as defined previously. In this variant, the hair colouring composition C, obtained by mixing composition A and composition B, is applied to the hair keratin fibres.
In another variant, composition A as defined previously and composition B as defined previously are applied simultaneously to the hair keratin fibres, without prior mixing.
In another variant, composition A and composition B are applied sequentially to the hair keratin fibres, composition A possibly being applied to the hair keratin fibres before composition B, or vice versa.
The present invention also relates to a device for colouring the hair, comprising at least two compartments containing:
in a first compartment (El), a composition A as defined previously; and in a second compartment (E2), a composition B as defined previously; optionally, in a third compartment (E3), a composition D as defined below.
Via the use of this colouring process on hair keratin fibres, coloured coatings are obtained on the hair that make it possible to obtain a colouring that is visible on all types of hair in a manner that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing, while at the same time preserving the physical qualities of the hair keratin fibres. Such a coating may be resistant to the external attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected, such as blow-drying and perspiration. It makes it possible in particular to obtain a smooth and uniform deposit and improvement of the disentangling at the time of drying the hair fibres.
Furthermore, the compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention have good working qualities, in particular in terms of ease and uniformity of spreading on the hair, while at the same time minimizing any problems of running.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colouring that is persistent with respect to shampoo washing" means that the colouring obtained persists after one shampoo wash, preferably after three shampoo washes, more preferentially after five shampoo washes.
The expression "at least one" means one or more.
The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
- an "alkyl" radical denotes a linear or branched saturated radical containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
- an "aminoaikyi" radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NFI2 group;
- a "hydroxy alkyl" radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OFI group;
- an "alkylene" radical denotes a linear or branched divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon-based group such as methylene, ethylene or propylene;
- a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical denotes a cyclic saturated monocyclic or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group;
- a "cycloalkylene" radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with "cycloalkyl" as defined previously, preferably of C3-C12;
- an "aryl" radical is a monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, fused or non-fused, unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon-based cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms; preferably, the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl; preferably, the aryl group represents phenyl;
- an "ary!ene" radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl" as defined previously; preferably, arylene represents phenylene;
- a "heterocyclic" radical denotes a saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, monocyclic or polycyclic hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, including from 3 to 20 ring members, preferably between 5 and 10 ring members, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
- a "heterocycloalkylene" radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic" as defined previously;
- an “aryloxy" radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl" as defined previously;
- an "alkoxy" radical denotes an "alkyl-oxy" radical with "alkyl" as defined previously;
- an "acyloxy" radical denotes an ester radical R-C(0)-0- with R being an alkyl group as defined previously;
- a "reactive" group is a group that is capable of forming a covalent bond with another identical or different group, by chemical reaction.
The term "hair keratin fibres" particularly means the hair.
(Poly)carbodiimide compound
Composition A according to the invention used in the context of the colouring process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
The composition may comprise at least two different (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.
The term "(poly)carbodiimide compound" means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide groups, preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferentially at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably between 100 and 150, more preferentially about 100.
The term "carbodiimide group" means a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula -(N=C=N)-.
The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups.
The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be side or end groups. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more end groups different from carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more end groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups.
According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
(I), in which:
- Xi and X independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Ri and R independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may comprise one or more heteroatoms; in particular, Ri and R independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon- based radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups, and a hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms and with one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups;
- n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000 and preferably from 1 to 100; and
- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (la) below:
in which:
- Xi and C independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Yi and Y independently represent a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated to C aliphatic group or a C6 to C aromatic or alkylaromatic group, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pendent heteroatoms, such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
- Zi and Z independently represent a reactive end group or an inert end group;
- as inert end group, Zi and Z may represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic Ci to C5o aliphatic group, or a C6 to Cig aromatic group, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and combinations thereof, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in
this variant, Zi and h comprise a bonding group CG connecting Zi to Yi and h to Y , the group CG possibly being a single covalent bond, a saturated C-C bond, an unsaturated covalent C-C bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
- as reactive end group, Zi and Z may be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoal kylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups;
- Q represents an organopolymer or an organooligomer comprising repeating units of saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic groups, or of aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled via carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea repeating bonds or combinations thereof;
- A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic radical containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally comprise one or more non- pendent heteroatoms such as a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain;
- r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
- m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
- m' denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
Preferably, Zi and Z independently represent a reactive end group; more preferentially, Zi and Z independently represent a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoal kylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane groups.
Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are sold, for example, by the company Stahl B.V, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds sold under the name Carbodilite with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW- 12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
(II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
- Li independently represents a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
-O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
The term "hydrocarbon-based radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based radical is a saturated linear radical.
The hydrocarbon-based radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
The hydrocarbon-based radical may be interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, in particular chosen from O, S or N and/or substituted with one or more cations, anions or zwitterions or cationic groups such as ammonium, anionic groups such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic groups, and/or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.
The term " heteroatomfs )" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, and also halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon-based radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.
Preferably, Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
Preferably, Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are independently chosen from groups (i) to (iv) below:
(i) the compound of formula (III) below:
R7-0-C(0)-C(RS)(H)- (III), in which R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group and Rg represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group; preferably, R7 is a methyl and Rg is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
(ii) the compound of formula (IV) below:
R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p- (IV), in which Rg represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl, Rio is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
(iii) the compound of formula (V) below:
(Rii)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V), in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; preferably, Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R12 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
(iv) the compound of formula (VI) below:
Ri3-[0-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI),
in which !½ represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably, I½ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Ri4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
Preferably, Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
Preferably, in formula (IV), Rg is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rio is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
Preferably, in formula (VI), R13 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R14 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
According to another alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferentially from 2 to 20.
Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferentially from 2 to 20.
Preferably, w is equal to 1.
Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.
Preferably, U is chosen from a Ci-Cig divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical such as methylene, ethylene and propylene, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene and cyclohexylene, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
For example, U may be chosen from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis(8-isocyanatooctyl)-l,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'- dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5- napththylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, U is chosen from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:
Preferably, U is 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane corresponding to formula (VIII) below:
(VIII).
According to another embodiment, when U is a C6-C14 arylene group, U is not the m- tetramethylxylylene radical represented by formula (IX) below:
(IX).
As indicated previously, E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -0-R3-0-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms; and
- R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
Preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3- C12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Q-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from a-methylstyryl isocyanates of formula (X) below:
(X), in which R independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and
n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.
In this embodiment, the term "alkyl group" is as defined previously.
In this embodiment, the term "cycloalkyl group" is as defined previously.
In this embodiment, n may denote an integer ranging from 2to 50, preferably from 3 to 30 and even more preferentially from 5 to 10.
According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XI) below:
(XI), in which R independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
The "alkyl group", the "cycloalkyl group" and the "aryl group" are as defined previously.
According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, more preferentially the compound of formula (VI) as described previously in which Ri3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z, when they are present, denote an integer ranging from lto 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Li, when it is present, is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
- A, when it is present, is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
- E, when it is present, independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when it is present, is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3- C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R6, when it is present, is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 are, independently, monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
Ri3-[0-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane; and
- E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
Ri3-[0-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane; and
- E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XII) below:
(XII), in which U is 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci- Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
The total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s), present in composition A according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even better still from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
The total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s), present in the hair colour composition C according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
Polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group
Composition B according to the invention used in the context of the hair colouring process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group.
Preferably, the polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
Polyurethanes and acrylic polymers:
According to a preferred embodiment, composition B comprises one ormore polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, composition B comprises one or more polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, mention may be made of latices.
The aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles.
More particularly, the polyurethane(s) present in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention result from the reaction of:
(A), in which:
- Ri represents a divalent radical of a dihydroxylated compound;
- R2 represents a radical of an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate;
- R3 represents a radical of a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted with one or more ionic groups;
- n represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- m is greater than 1;
- at least one chain extender according to formula (B) below:
H2N-R4-NH2 (B), in which R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical which is not substituted with one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups; and
- at least one chain extender according to formula (C) below:
H2N-R5-NH2 (C), in which R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted with one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups.
Among the dihydroxylated compounds that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made notably of the compounds containing two hydroxyl groups and having a number-average molecular weight from about 700 to about 16000, and preferably from about 750 to about 5000. As examples of dihydroxylated compounds of high molecular weight, mention may be made of polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, polyhydroxylated polyacetates, polyhydroxylated polyacrylates, polyhydroxylated amide polyesters, polyhydroxylated polyalkadienes, polyhydroxylated polythioethers, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydroxylated compounds are chosen from polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, and mixtures thereof.
The polyisocyanates that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from organic diisocyanates with a molecular weight of about 112 to 1000, and preferably about 140 to 400.
Preferably, the polyisocyanates are chosen from diisocyanates and more particularly from those represented by the general formula R2(NCO)2, in which R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon- based group containing from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R2 represents an organic diisocyanate. As examples of organic diisocyanates, the following may notably be chosen: tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 1,3-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 1,4-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 3- isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane, l,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-
bis(isocyanatomethyl)cyclohexane, bis(4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)methane, isomers of toluene diisocyanate (TDI) such as toluene 2,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,6-diisocyanate and mixtures thereof, hydrogenated toluene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4, 4' -diisocyanate and mixtures with its diphenylmethane 2,4-diisocyanate isomers and optionally diphenylmethane 2, 2' -diisocyanate isomers, naphthalene 1,5-diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates, and are more preferentially chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5- trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
According to the present invention, the term "low molecular weight diol" refers to a diol with a molecular weight from about 62 to 700, and preferably from 62 to 200. These diols may comprise aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferably, they comprise only aliphatic groups.
Preferably, R3 represents a low molecular weight diol containing more than 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4- butanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, butylethylpropanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,4- cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,6-hexanediol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof.
The low molecular weight diols may optionally comprise ionic or potentially ionic groups. Examples of low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are notably described in patent US 3412054. Such compounds are preferably chosen from dimethylolbutanoic acid, dimethylolpropionic acid, polycaprolactone diols containing a carboxyl group, and mixtures thereof.
If low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are used, they are preferably used in an amount such that less than 0.30 meq of COOH per gram of polyurethane is present in the polyurethane dispersion.
The prepolymer is extended by means of two families of chain extenders. The first family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (B).
The chain extenders of formula (B) are preferably chosen from alkylenediamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, piperazine; alkylene oxide diamines, such as 3-{2-[2-(3-aminopropoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy}propylamine (also known as dipropylamine diethylene glycol or DPA-DEG available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis.), 2-methyl-l,5-pentanediamine (Dytec A from DuPont), hexanediamine, isophorone diamine, 4,4-methylenedi(cyclohexylamine), ether-amines of the DPA series, available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis., such as dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripropylene glycol, dipropylamine polypropylene glycol), dipropylamine ethylene glycol, dipropylamine polyethylene glycol), dipropylamine 1,3-propanediol, dipropylamine 2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol, dipropylamine 1,4- butanediol, dipropylamine 1,3-butanediol, dipropylamine 1,6-hexanediol and dipropylamine cyclohexane-1, 4-dimethanol; and mixtures thereof.
The second family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (C). Such compounds preferably have an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups that can react with isocyanate groups. Such compounds may optionally comprise two groups that react with isocyanate groups and one group which is ionic or capable of forming an ionic group.
The ionic or potentially ionic group may preferably be chosen from ternary or quaternary ammonium groups or groups that can be converted into such groups, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group. The at least partial conversion of groups that can be converted into a ternary or quaternary ammonium group salt may be performed before or during the mixing with water.
The chain extenders of formula (C) are preferably chosen from diaminosulfonates, for instance the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA), the sodium salt of N-(2- aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The polyurethane that may be used according to the present invention may optionally also comprise compounds which are located, respectively, at the chain ends and terminate said chains (chain terminators). Such compounds are notably described in patents US 7445770 and/or US 7452770.
Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s at 23°C, more preferentially less than 1500, and even better still less than 1000. Even more preferably, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a glass transition temperature of less than 0°C.
Preferably also, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a polyurethane (or active material, or solids) content, on the basis of the weight of the dispersion, of from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 25% to 55% by weight and even better still from 30% to 50% by weight. This is intended to mean that the polyurethane content (dry matter) of the aqueous dispersion is preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 25% to 55% by weight and even better still from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Preferably also, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than or equal to -25°C, preferably less than -35°C and more preferentially less than -40°C.
The polyurethane particles may have a mean diameter ranging up to about 1000 nm, for example from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, better still from about 100 nm to about 500 nm. These particle sizes may be measured with a laser particle size analyser (for example Brookhaven BI90).
As non-limiting examples of aqueous polyurethane dispersions, mention may be made of those sold under the name Baycusan® by Bayer, for instance Baycusan® C1000 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® ClOOl (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1003 (INCI name: polyurethane-32), Baycusan® C1004 (INCI name: polyurethane-35) and Baycusan® C1008 (INCI name: polyurethane- 48).
Mention may also be made of the aqueous polyurethane dispersions of isophthalic acid/adipic acid copolymer/hexylene glycol/neopentyl glycol/dimethylol acid/isophorone diisocyanate (INCI name: Polyurethane-1, such as Luviset® PUR, BASF), the polyurethane of polycarbonate, polyurethane and aliphatic polyurethane of aliphatic polyester (such as the Neorez® series, DSM, such as Neorez® R989, Neorez® and R-2202).
According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of particles of compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-35 or compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-34.
Preferably, the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of acrylic polymers, more preferentially in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these unit(s) are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
The term "film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, notably on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
The unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), notably of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salt(s), or organic base salt(s).
The (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular Ci to C30, preferably Ci to C20 and better still Ci to C10 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6 to C10 aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2 to C6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2- hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
The (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are alkyl, preferably Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, even better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylates.
According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
As (meth)acrylic acid amides, examples that may be mentioned include (meth)acrylamides and also N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular N-(C2 to C12 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t- octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
The acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, better still a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of (meth)acrylic acid esters.
Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylate.
Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise any surfactant.
The term "surfactant" refers to any agent that is capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name Luvimer MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer sold under the trade name Fixate Superhold Polymer by the company Lubrizol, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name Daitosol 3000VP3 by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo, or the compound Acrylate Polymer sold under the trade name Daitosol 3000 SLPN-PE1 by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.
The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
By way of additional monomer, mention will be made, for example, of styrene monomers, in particular styrene and a-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene/(meth)acrylate copolymer and notably a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one Ci to C20, preferably Ci to C10, alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.
The Ci to C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
As acrylic polymer, mention may be made of the styrene/(meth)acrylate copolymers sold under the name Joncryl 77 by the company BASF, under the name Yodosol GFI41F by the company Akzo Nobel and under the name Syntran 5760 CG by the company Interpolymer.
Preferably, composition B comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.
More preferentially, composition B comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
b) Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylate.
Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer (or active material, or solids) content, on the basis of the weight of the dispersion, of from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 22% to 55% by weight and better still from 25% to 50% by weight.
The total amount of the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, present in composition B, preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
The total amount of the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
The total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
The total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
Non-silicone fatty substances
According to the present invention, composition A and/or B comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, i.e. a fatty substance not comprising any silicon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or B.
The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight).
They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the non-silicone fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013xl05 Pa).
More particularly, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, non-silicone waxes other than solid fatty alcohols and than solid synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly bear at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the C6-C16 lower alkanes, they are linear or branched, or possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
The triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.
The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof
(cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acids that may be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid.
Preferably, the fatty acid(s) are in a form not salified with organic or mineral bases in the composition of the invention.
As regards the esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously and the plant waxes, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Cl- C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n- propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate,
hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate and cetyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, notably, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate or oleostearate.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
The non-silicone wax(es) other than solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters are notably chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive
tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are notably marine waxes, such as the wax sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
The fatty substance(s) do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylenated units; in particular, they do not contain any oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated and/or glycerolated units.
The non-silicone fatty substances are preferably chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, fatty acids or mixtures thereof, more preferentially from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, preferably of C12-C22 and preferentially C14-C18.
Advantageously, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance(s) are present in composition B and preferably only in composition B.
When composition C resulting from the mixing of composition A and composition B is applied to the hair, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
Colouring agents
Composition A and/or composition B used in the context of the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, composition A and/or B comprises at least one pigment, optionally one or more direct dyes.
According to a particular embodiment, the colouring agent is present in composition B. According to a preferred variant, the colouring agent is present only in composition B.
Preferably, composition B according to the invention comprises one or more pigments. According to a preferred variant, composition B comprises at least one pigment, optionally one or more direct dyes. According to a second preferred variant, composition B is as defined previously and composition A contains neither any pigment nor any direct dye.
Pigments
The term "pigment" refers to any pigment that gives colour to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
The pigments that may be used are notably chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
They may be natural, of natural origin, or non-natural.
These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated.
The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
The pigment may be a mineral pigment. The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.
Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
- Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (Cl 11710);
- Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (Cl 11680);
- Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (Cl 71105);
- Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (Cl 12085);
- Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (Cl 12490);
- Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (Cl 51319);
- Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (Cl 74160);
- Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (Cl 74260);
- Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (Cl 77266).
The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
The organic pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
Among the dyes, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green 5 (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (Cl 15850:1).
The pigment may also be a pigment with special effects. The term "pigments with special effects" means pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from coloured pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
Several types of pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
Examples of pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium and with iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Nacreous pigments that may be mentioned include the nacres Cellini sold by BASF (mica-TiC -lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiC ), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe20s) and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-Ti02-Fe20s).
Mention may also be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold notably by the company
Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
Still as examples of nacreous agents, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, notably those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
The pigments with special effects may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. notably from particles whose size, structure, notably the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. brighter points that contrast with their environment, making them appear to sparkle.
The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
These particles may have varied forms and may notably be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material.
When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, notably titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, notably a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, notably of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and/or mineral materials.
More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
The reflective material may include a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
Reflective particles are notably described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A- 10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
Again as an example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.
Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with S1O2 sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Flelicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
The variety of pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or else polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
Thus, the pigments surface-treated beforehand that are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been completely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those described notably in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, notably polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is notably described in patent US 4578266.
An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
- a PEG-silicone treatment, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a methicone treatment, for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a dimethicone treatment, for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment, for instance the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a magnesium myristate treatment, for instance the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;
- an aluminium dimyristate treatment, for instance the Ml surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether treatment, for instance the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW;
- an isostearyl sebacate treatment, for instance the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the PF surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane/perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer treatment, for instance the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer treatment, for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a perfluoroalkyl phosphate/isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in submicron-sized particulate form in composition B.
The term "submicron-sized" or "submicronic" refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization method and having a mean particle size of less than a micrometre (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better still between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of amino silicone type. Among the suitable dispersants that may be mentioned are: amino silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those sold under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers, silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones bearing carboxyl groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695 by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412 by Evonik.
According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type and are cationic.
Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
Direct dye
The term "direct dye" means natural and/or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre. The direct dyes are generally at least partially soluble in water and/or a solvent.
They may be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.
Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (III) and (IV) and the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) below:
Het+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q-
(III).
Hef+-C(Ra)=N-NCRb)-Art Q
(iv),
Het*-N“N-Ar, Q-
(V),
Ar+-N=M-Ar”= Q-
(VI), in which formulae (III) to (VI):
- Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with at least one (Ci-Cg)alkyl group such as methyl;
- Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-Cg)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;
- Ar represents an aryl group, notably phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkoxy, iii) (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-Cg)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(Ci-Cg)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci- Cg)alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
- Ar" represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more (Ci-Cg)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino, (Ci-Cg)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Cg)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
- Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (III) to (VI) as defined previously, more particularly, the cationic direct dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954, preferentially the following direct dyes:
- R1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and
- R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci- Cg)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cg)alkoxy, or (di)(Ci-Cg)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; in particular, R4 is a hydrogen atom;
- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH,
- Q- is an anionic counterion as defined previously, in particular a halide, such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate, such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
In particular, the dyes of formulae (V) and (VI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof with Q' being an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. The term "anionic direct dye" means any direct dye including in its structure at least one CC¾R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
As acid dyes that are useful for the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (IX), (IC'), (X), (C'), (XI), (CI'), (XII), (CII'), (XIII), (XIV), (XV) and (XVI) below: the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (IX) or (IX'):
(IX),
in which formulae (IX) and (IX'):
- R7, Re, R9, Rio, R'7, R's, R'9 and R'io, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl, alkoxy, alkylthio, hydroxyl, mercapto, nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
- R"'-S(0)2-X'- with R'" representing an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group, X' as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, IVT and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;
- optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group;
- cycloalkyl, notably cyclohexyl;
- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or phenylamino groups;
- or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rg or Rg with Rg or Rg with Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'g or R'g with R'g or R'g with R'io together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'- C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X" and Ar as defined previously;
- W represents a sigma bond o, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i)-NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, together with the
carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Raand Rb together form a cyclohexyl; it being understood that formulae (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (IX), mention may be made of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food Yellow 3 or Sunset Yellow; and as examples of dyes of formula (IX'), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (X) and (C'):
in which formulae (X) and (C'):
- Rii, Ri2 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(0)2S(0 ), M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- Ri4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(0)0 , M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom;
- Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i6 is absent, or alternatively RI5 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
- Ri7 and Rig, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- Ar-0-S(0)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
- Rig and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D', which is optionally substituted;
- R'i6, R'i9 and R'20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
- R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
- Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously; preferentially, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
- Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
- represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group; it being understood that formulae (X) and (C') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (X), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as an example of a dye of formula (C'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (XI) and (CG):
(XI),
(CI'), in which formulae (XI) and (CG):
- R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, IVT with M+ as defined previously;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
- aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 )-, IVT with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
- cycloalkyl; notably cyclohexyl;
- Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'2sR'29 with R'28 and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XI) and (CG) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical C(0)0, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (XI), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet No. 2; and, as an example of a dye of formula (CG), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48. d) the nitro dyes of formulae (XII) and (CIG):
(CII'), in which formulae (XII) and (CIG):
- R3O, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- polyhaloalkyl;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
- Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- W is as defined previously; W particularly represents an -NH- group;
- ALK represents a linear or branched divalent C1-C6 alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a - CH2-CH2- group;
- n is 1 or 2;
- p represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 5;
- q represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 4;
- u is 0 or 1;
- when n is 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
- when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents an -SO2- radical;
- M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
, which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XII) and (XI I') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (XII), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (CIG), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4- dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"- hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4- -hydroxyethylamino-3- nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII):
(XIII), in which formula (XIII):
- R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom ora group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (0)mS(0 )-, M+ with M+ and m as defined previously;
- R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: G; with G optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0 )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'- C(X)- and ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M+, R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously; in particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (0)2S(0 )-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with an (0)2S(0 )- group;
it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or G comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )- or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 ; preferentially sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (XIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50. f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (XIV):
(XIV), in which formula (XIV):
- R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
- R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously; particularly, R49, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
- L represents an alkoxide O, M+; a thioalkoxide S , M+ or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
- L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: I TRfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl
group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (0)mS(0 )-, M+ groups with m and M+ as defined previously;
- Q and Q', which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
- M+ is as defined previously.
As examples of dyes of formula (XIV), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (XV):
(xv), in which formula (XV):
- R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO -, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with Re as defined previously; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
- Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; it being understood that formula (XIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 , M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (XV), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74;
h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (XVI):
(XVI), in which formula (XVI):
- R6I represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
- R62, R63 and R64, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; or alternatively R6i with R62, or R6i with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0 )-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; it being understood that formula (XVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (0)2S(0 )-, M+, preferentially sodium sulfonate.
As examples of dyes of formula (XVI), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and notably henna-based poultices or extracts.
Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
The colouring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
The colouring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
Silicones
According to a particular embodiment, one and/or the other of compositions A and B also comprises at least one silicone, different from the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group described previously.
This silicone may be chosen from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
The silicones may be solid or liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa), and volatile or non-volatile.
The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
Preferably, one and/or the other of the compositions A and B contains one or more silicones that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;
Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane.
Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l,r-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10 s m2/s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups. Preferably, the non-volatile silicones are chosen from polydimethyl/methylsiloxanes which are optionally oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products sold under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company Genesee, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company Dow Corning;
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732;
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255;
- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342834; mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Cl- C20)dialkylsiloxanes.
Products which may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a polydimethylsiloxane, also known as dimethicone (CTFA), such as the product Xiameter® PMX-1503 Fluid sold by the company Dow Corning.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes that are linear and/or branched and that have a viscosity ranging from lxlO5 to 5xl02 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Preferably, one and/or the other of the compositions A and B comprises at least one amino silicone. The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are m styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 mI of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
Preferably, the amino silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
R'aG3-a-Si(0SiG2)n-(0SiGbR'2-b)m-0-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:
- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cg alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cg alkoxy, for example methoxy;
- a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-Q-N(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula Crhhr, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide anion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G) below.
According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:
in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/a I koxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below:
in which:
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/a I koxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones the structure of which is different from formula (D) or (E).
A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil® ADM LOG 1.
When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.
According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (F) below:
in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning (INCI name: amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).
According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (G) below:
in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1,999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
in which:
- R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- F¾6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cig alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cig, for example Ci-Cg, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Q is an anion, such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt, in particular an acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such amino silicones are notably described in patent US 4 185 087. d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
in which:
- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cig alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cig, for example Ci-Cg, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Rg, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;
- X is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A 0530974; e) the amino silicones of formula (J):
in which:
- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;
f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.
Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:
[-(SiMe20)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-0(C2H40)a(C3H60)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively
[-(SiMe20)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-0(C2H40)a(C3H60)b-] in which:
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH20CH2CH(0H)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes a CH2CH2CH20CH2CH(0H)CH2- radical;
- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical -CH2CH2CH20CH2CH(0H)CH2-; preferentially, R' denotes - CH(CH3)-CH2-.
The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive. g) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formula (E).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone having the INCI name amodimethicone, preferably introduced in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone having the INCI name amodimethicone as an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants, having the INCI names trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.
The silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
The silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
The amino silicone(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 15%, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
Organic solvents
One and/or the other of the compositions A and B used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alkanols, more preferentially ethanol.
The organic solvents may be present in a total amount inclusively between 0.01% and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 50% by weight and more preferentially inclusively between 0.1% and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair colour composition C.
Composition A and/or composition B according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The water content may range from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 98% by weight and more preferentially from 60% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
Perfume
Composition A and/or composition B according to the invention may also comprise one or more perfumes. This refers to any perfume or aroma that is capable of giving off a pleasant odour.
Perfumes are compositions notably containing the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991, Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
They may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and/or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles or peroxides, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic.
According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the Commission of the European Pharmacopoeia, an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant starting material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold pressing). The essential oil is generally separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process which does not result in any significant change in the composition.
The choice of the method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its intrinsic nature. The "essential oil/plant starting material" yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, and richness or poorness in certain constituents.
Steam entrainment corresponds to vaporization, in the presence of steam, of a sparingly water- miscible substance. The raw material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in an alambic. The steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essence jar), where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling. The aqueous distillate that remains after the steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been performed, is known as the "aromatic water" or "hydrolate" or "distilled floral water".
Production by dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom. Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
The method of production by cold pressing applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The conventional process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. The majority of industrial installations allow simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from "set" oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally less than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, distillable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang ylang; Apiaceae, for example Umbelliferae, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot or parsley;
Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, artemisia, camomile, helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Cesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copaiba balsam); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae, for example rock rose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae, for example gaultheria (wintergreen); Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae, for example geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae, for example St-John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, monarda, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, for example ravensara, sweet bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp or hop; Myricaceae; Myristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, paperbark tree, cajuput, backhousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example citronella grass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Renonculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae: all citrus plants; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaceae, for example agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, for example valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, for example lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, for example galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
Mention may also be made of the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli), from stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), from fruit (coriander, aniseed, cumin, juniper), from fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), from roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), from wood (pinewood, sandalwood, gaiac wood, rose of cedar, camphor), from grasses and gramineae (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemongrass, sage, thyme), from needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine) and from resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opopanax).
Examples of fragrancing substances included in the constitution of perfumes are notably: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linolool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinolool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert- butylphenyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4- dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4- hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3- cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2- pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranylacetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decen-l-ol, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal, geranonitrile,
citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepinonitrile, aubepine, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3- hexenol and esters thereof, musk-indans, musk-tetralins, musk-isochromans, macrocyclic ketones, musk-macrolactones, aliphatic musks and ethylene brassylate, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different fragrancing substances that generate in common a note that is pleasant to the user is used.
Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the fragranced composition comprises at least 1% by weight of a mixture of fragrancing substances, in particular of at least two different fragrancing substances, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least three different fragrancing substances.
The fragrancing substances will preferably be chosen such that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: citrine, aromatic, floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fougere, leathery, musk.
In general, a fragranced composition that is useful in the invention comprises between 0.01% and 10% by weight of fragrancing substance(s), preferably from 0.05% to 5%, preferentially between 0.1% and 3% by weight of fragrancing substance(s).
Additives
One and/or the other of the compositions A and B used in the context of the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers described previously, associative or non-associative thickening polymers, preserving agents, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
One and/or the other of the compositions A and B may notably be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a gel, an emulsion, notably an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, notably of ionic or nonionic lipids, or a two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, notably their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.
In the process of the invention, according to a particular embodiment, composition A comprises a polycarbodiimide compound and composition B comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group and at least one pigment, optionally at least one direct dye. According to one variant, composition B comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group, at least one fatty substance and at least one pigment, optionally at least one direct dye.
According to one variant, composition A does not contain any colouring agent and composition B is as defined previously.
According to one embodiment, one and/or the other of compositions A and B comprises at least one non-volatile silicone, preferably an amino silicone, for example of amodimethicone type, or a hydroxylated silicone, for example of dimethiconol type, or a hydroxylated amino silicone. According to a particular embodiment, composition A comprises a (poly)carbodiimide compound and an amino silicone and/or hydroxylated silicone. According to another embodiment, composition B comprises a colouring agent, at least 0.1% of non-silicone fatty substance, at least one non-silicone polymer bearing a carboxylic group.
Optional application of a composition D
The hair colouring process according to the invention may also comprise a step of applying to the hair keratin fibres a composition D comprising at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group.
Silicone compounds bearing carboxylic functions
The term "carboxylic group" means a COOH or COO functional group, the counterion of the COO group possibly being chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals and quaternary ammoniums.
The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVII) below:
(XXVII) in which:
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- R2 independently represents a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an
oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidine radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a group Ra-(ORb)x-COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R3 independently represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group; a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or a group Ra-(ORb)*-COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000; it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and/or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Notably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group may be chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) below:
(XXVIII), in which:
- R1 independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially methyl;
- R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially a methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- M represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX) below:
in which:
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and better still from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra- (ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- R3 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', which may be identical or different, representing H or an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI) below:
in which:
- R8 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;
- m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- and mixtures thereof.
Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl end function, such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name Silform INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl Dimethicone).
Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl side function, such as the compounds sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.
Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a carboxyl end function, such as the compounds sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.
Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI), mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside).
The silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group may correspond, for example, to the compounds described in the patent application EP 186507 in the name of Chisso Corporation, introduced herein by reference.
Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIXa) below:
(XXIXa) in which:
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, or even from 8 to 12 carbon atoms;
- p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
The total amount of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group, present in composition D, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.
Composition D comprises one or more oils. More preferentially, composition D comprises one or more oils chosen from alkanes.
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013xl05 Pa).
The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oils chosen from C6-Ci6 alkanes and/or mixtures thereof, these oils possibly being linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
Mention may notably be made of branched Cg-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cg-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n- heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (CIO), n-undecane (Cll), n-dodecane (C12), n- tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cll) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155059 by the company Cognis.
Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
As examples of alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO 2008/155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises isododecane. Such a compound is, for example, the isododecane sold under the reference Isododecane by Ineos.
Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oils chosen from Cg-Ci6 alkanes, more preferentially from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and/or mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, composition D comprises isododecane.
Composition D may comprise one or more oils present in a total amount of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight and better still between 70% and 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D.
Composition D may comprise at least one colouring agent as described previously.
Protocols
As indicated previously, compositions A and B may be applied to hair keratin fibres, such as the hair, sequentially, in any order, or simultaneously.
According to one variant of the invention, compositions A and B are applied sequentially to hair keratin fibres, such as the hair, in any order, i.e. composition A may be applied to the hair keratin fibres before composition B or vice versa.
According to a particular embodiment, the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising: i) the application to hair keratin fibres of composition A or of composition B, in which:
composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; composition B comprises:
- at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances; and
- at least one polymer containing at least one carboxylic acid group, as described previously, preferably a polymer bearing a carboxylic or carboxylate function, notably a poly(meth)acrylate as described previously; and
- at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments and direct dyes; ii) the application to said hair keratin fibres of composition B, if composition A was applied during step i) or of composition A if composition B was applied during step i).
Preferably, the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising: i) the application to hair keratin fibres of composition A or of composition B, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously, and at least one non-volatile silicone; composition B comprises:
- at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, preferably of C12-C22;
- at least one polymer containing at least one carboxylic acid group, as described previously, preferably a polymer bearing a carboxylic or carboxylate function, notably a poly(meth)acrylate as described previously;
- at least one pigment; ii) optionally a leave-on time of said composition A or of said composition B on the fibres of from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes; and then iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, draining or drying said fibres, preferably a drying step, and then iv) the application to said hair keratin fibres of composition B, if composition A was applied during step i) or of composition A if composition B was applied during step i), and then v) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, draining or drying said fibres, preferably a drying step, and then vi) the application to said hair keratin fibres of a composition D comprising at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group as described previously; and then vii) optionally a leave-on time of said composition D on the fibres of from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes; and then viii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, draining or drying said fibres.
According to another variant of the invention, and preferably, compositions A and B are applied simultaneously.
According to another embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed extemporaneously at the time of use to obtain the hair colour composition C.
The hair colour composition C and the optional composition D described above may be used on wet or dry hair keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
According to a preferred embodiment, the hair colour composition C and composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair keratin fibres.
According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibres after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres.
According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibres before applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair keratin fibres are washed before applying the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D.
Preferably, a washing, rinsing, draining or drying step is performed after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
More preferentially, a drying step is performed after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
The application to the fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
The application of the hair colour composition C and of the optional composition D to the hair keratin fibres is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
After applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres, it is possible to wait for between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferentially between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before, for example, applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres or, for example, a washing, rinsing, draining or drying step.
Preferably, there is no leave-on time after applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres and before applying composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
After applying the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D, the fibres may be left to dry or may be dried, for example at a temperature of greater than or equal to 30°C.
The process according to the invention may thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres using a heating tool.
The heat application step of the process of the invention may be performed using a hood, a hairdryer, a straightening iron or a curling iron.
Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is performed using a hairdryer.
When the process of the invention involves a step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres, the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres takes place after applying the hair colour composition C and the optional composition D to the hair keratin fibres.
During the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through.
When the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres is performed using a hood or a hairdryer, the temperature is preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 50°C and 90°C.
When the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibres is performed using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110°C and 220°C, preferably between 140°C and 200°C.
In a particular variant, the process of the invention involves a step (bl) of applying heat using a hood, a hairdryer or a Climazon, preferably a hairdryer, and a step (b2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
Step (bl) may be performed before step (b2).
During step (bl), also referred to as the drying step, the fibres may be dried, for example at a temperature above or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is above 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is above 45°C and below 110°C.
Preferably, if the fibres are dried, they are dried, in addition to a supply of heat, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the strand separation of the coating.
During drying, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through.
During step (b2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, may be performed at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 220°C, preferably between 140°C and 200°C.
After the heating step, a shaping step may be performed, for example with a straightening iron; the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
Preferably, the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising the mixing of a composition A and of a composition B to obtain a hair colour composition C, and then: i) the application to the hair keratin fibres of the hair colour composition C, in which compositions A and B are as defined previously.
More preferentially, the invention is a hair colouring process, comprising the mixing of a composition A and of a composition B to obtain a hair colour composition C, and then:
i) the application to the hair keratin fibres of the hair colour composition C, in which: composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; composition B comprises:
- at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances as described previously;
- at least one non-silicone polymer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, as described previously;
- at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more pigments.
Preferably, the step of applying the hair colour composition C to the hair keratin fibres is repeated several times.
The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferentially from 0.2 to 5 and better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
The present invention also relates to a device for colouring the hair, comprising at least two compartments containing:
- in a first compartment (El), a composition A according to the invention as defined previously;
- in a second compartment (E2), a composition B according to the invention as defined previously;
- optionally, in a third compartment (E3), a composition D as described previously.
The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
Examples
The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible via synthetic methods known to a person skilled in the art starting from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions that are also known to a person skilled in the art. Mention may be made, for example, of the book Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4 284 730 or the Canadian patent application CA 2 509 861.
More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention involves, in a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1):
0=C=N-Li-N=C=0 (1), in which formula (1) U is as defined previously, which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4284730, notably phosphorus-based catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza- and oxaza-phospholanes,
preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or argon), and in particular in a polar solvent which is preferably aprotic such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane or DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and the reflux temperature of the solvent, preferably at about 140°C; to give the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3):
0=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-N=C=0 (3), in which formula (3) U and n are as defined previously. Benzoyl halogen such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
To obtain "symmetrical" (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq.) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-Xi-H and then 0.5 eq. of reagent H-E-H with Ri, Xi and E as defined previously, to give the "symmetrical" compound (4) according to the invention:
[Ri-Xi-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-NH-C(0)]2-E (4), in which formula (4) Ri, Xi, U, n and E are as defined previously. According to one variant to obtain compound (4) from (3), it is possible first to add 0.5 eq. of reagent H-E-H and then 1 eq. of reagent Ri-Xi-H.
To obtain "dissymmetrical" (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq.) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-Xi-H and then 1 eq. of reagent H-E-H with Ri, Xi and E as defined previously, to give compound (5):
Ri-Xi-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-NH-C(0)-E-H (5), in which formula (5) Ri, Xi, U, n and E are as defined previously.
According to one variant to obtain compound (5) from (3), it is possible first to add 1 eq. of reagent Ri-Xi-H and then 0.5 eq. of reagent H-E-H.
During a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6)
R2-X2-C(0)-NH-LI-(N=C=N-LI)Z-N=C=0 (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'):
0=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)z-N=C=0 (3'), in which formula (3') U and z are as defined previously, which reacts with 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with U, R2, X2 and z as defined previously, to give the dissymmetrical compound (7):
Ri-Xi-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-NH-C(0)-E-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)z-NH-C(0)-X2-R2(7), in which formula (7) Ri, Xi, U, R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound 0=C=N-Li-(N=C=N-Li)z-N=C=0 (3') with 1/w molar equivalent of H-E-H, followed by 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to give compound (8):
H-[E-C(0)-NH-LI-(N=C=N-LI)Z]W-NH-C(0)-X2-R2 (8),
in which formula (8) Li, R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3; more preferentially, w = 1.
This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq. of compound (4'):
Ri-Xi-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-N=C=0 (4'), (it being possible for said compound (4') to be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-Xi-H with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to give the (poly)carbodiimide (9) of the invention:
Ri-Xi-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)n-NH-C(0)-[E-C(0)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)z]w-NH C(0)-X2-R2 (9), in which formula (9) Li, Ri, Xi, R2, X2, n, z, w and E are as defined previously.
The (poly)carbodiimide compounds, and similarly all the reaction intermediates and reagents, may be purified via conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration and/or chromatography.
Example 1: Process for synthesizing the (poly)carbodiimide compound
50 g of 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH- phosphole 1-oxide were placed with stirring in a 500 mL three-necked round-bottomed flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube.
The reaction medium was heated at 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, the reaction being monitored by infrared spectroscopy by means of the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm 1, and then cooled to 120°C.
A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol are introduced with stirring into the reaction medium. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have totally disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm 1, and is then cooled to room temperature.
After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water, to give the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid.
Example 2:
Compositions Al, B2.1, B2.2, B2.3 and C2 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
[Tables 1]
(1) synthesized according to the synthetic process described in Example 1 (containing 40% active material in water),
(2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepinov EMTIO,
(3) sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active material).
(4) sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name Daitosol 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion containing 30% active material)
Thus, compositions Al, B2.1 and B2.3 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention. Composition C2 is a comparative composition.
Example 3:
Compositions Al, B3.1, B3.2, B3.3 and C3 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
(1) synthesized according to the synthetic process described in Example 1 (containing 40% active material in water),
(2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepinov EMTIO,
(3) sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active material).
(4) sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name Daitosol 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion containing 30% active material)
Thus, compositions A1 and B3.1 to B3.3 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention. Composition C3 is a comparative composition.
Test protocol:
Composition Al, and each of the compositions BX.X described above or C2 and C3 described above are mixed in a 50/50 mass ratio.
The various mixtures are then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs, at a rate of 0.8 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The locks are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Composition D below is then applied to each lock, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition D per 1 g of hair. The locks are disentangled and dried with a hairdryer.
The locks are stored at room temperature for 24 hours before evaluation.
Composition D (the amounts are expressed as g of active material as obtained/100 g)
(7) sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E
The locks of hair thus dyed have good persistence with respect to repeated shampoo washing. After washing, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Evaluation:
The locks of hair were evaluated in terms of quality of use, more precisely in terms of ease of combing, by measuring the ease of passage of the comb during the drying step after dyeing and washing the locks of hair.
The ease of combing was evaluated sensorially and was rated from 0 to 3 with:
These results show an improvement in the disentangling during drying when composition B contains a fatty substance. In particular, this affords greater comfort when styling, for example when blow- drying.
Example 4:
Compositions Al, B4.1, B4.2 and C4 as described below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained/100 g.
(1) synthesized according to the synthetic process described in Example 1 (containing 40% active material in water),
(2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepinov EMTIO,
(3) sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active material). [Tables 8]
(4) sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name Daitosol 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion containing 30% active material)
(5) sold by the company Croda under the trade name Pripol™ 1009
Thus, compositions Al, B4.1 and B4.2 are compositions used in the context of the process according to the invention. Composition C4 is a comparative composition.
Test protocol:
Composition Al, and each of the compositions BX.X described above or C4 described above are mixed in a 50/50 mass ratio.
The various mixtures are then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs, at a rate of 0.8 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The locks are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Composition D described above is then applied to each lock, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition D per 1 g of hair. The locks are disentangled and dried with a hairdryer.
The locks are stored at room temperature for 24 hours before evaluation.
The locks of hair thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoo washes so as to evaluate the fastness (persistence) of the colouring obtained with respect to shampoo washes, according to the shampoo washing protocol described below.
Shampoo washing protocol:
The coloured locks of hair are combed, moistened with water at 35°C and then passed between the fingers five times for 5 seconds. The locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers.
A standard shampoo (Gamier Ultra Doux) is applied uniformly to the coloured locks, in a proportion of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of locks, the locks of hair being massaged gently along the length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from the root to the end.
The locks of hair are then placed on a watch glass and left to stand for 1 minute.
Next, the locks of hair are rinsed with water while passing the lock between the fingers (15 passes). The locks of hair are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo wash.
Once the tests of several shampoo washes have been performed, the locks of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.
Results:
The persistence of the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
The persistence of the colouring is evaluated by the colour difference DE between the coloured locks before shampooing, then after having undergone five shampoo washes according to the protocol described above. The lower the DE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to shampoo washing.
In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after colouring the hair and after performing the shampoo washes, and L0*a0*b0* represent the values measured after colouring the hair but before shampoo washing.
[Tables 9]
The locks of hair treated with each of the compositions A1 + B4.1 + D or A1 + B4.2+ D according to the invention and washed with five shampoo washes have lower DE values than the locks of hair treated with comparative composition A1+ C4 + D.
Thus, the coloured coating obtained with compositions A1 + B4.1 + D or A1 + B4.2+ D according to the invention shows good persistence with respect to shampoo washing.
Claims
[Claim 1] Hair colouring process comprising the application of a composition A and of a composition B to hair keratin fibres, in which:
- composition A comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound, and
- composition B comprises at least one polymer containing at least one group bearing a carboxylic acid function; and composition A and/or composition B comprising at least 0.1% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty substances; composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; and composition A and composition B are applied simultaneously or sequentially to the hair keratin fibres.
[Claim 2] Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which:
- Xi and X independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Ri and R independently represent a hydrocarbon-based group which may comprise one or more heteroatoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100; and
- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
[Claim 3] Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
(II), in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
- Li independently represents a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms;
- R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
[Claim 4] Process according to Claim 3, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is chosen from a Ci-Cis divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 5] Process according to either of Claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 are, independently, monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene
radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof;
- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
- R6 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 6] Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
Ri3-[0-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane; and
- E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 7] Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
- Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
Ri3-[0-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4- dicyclohexylenemethane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane; and
- E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci-Cis alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms.
[Claim 8] Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below:
(XII), in which L i is 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -0-R3-0- in which R3 represents a linear or branched Ci- Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene or ethylene, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[Claim 9] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even better still from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[Claim 10] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non silicone fatty substance(s) are chosen from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty acid/fatty alcohol esters, preferably of C12-C22, preferentially of C14-C18.
[Claim 11] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
[Claim 12] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) are present in composition B.
[Claim 13] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof, preferably from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 14] Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polymers bearing at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and mixtures thereof, preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferentially in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[Claim 15] Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the acrylic polymer(s) comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) Ci to C30, more preferentially Ci to C20, better still Ci to C10, and even more particularly Ci to C4, alkyl (meth)acrylate.
[Claim 16] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the polymer(s) bearing at least one carboxylic acid group ranges from 0.2% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 55% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight and even more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[Claim 17] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring agent comprises at least one pigment and optionally at least one direct dye.
[Claim 18] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring agent comprises at least one direct dye and optionally at least one pigment.
[Claim 19] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the colouring agent is present in composition B.
[Claim 20] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the colouring agent(s) range from 0.001% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
[Claim 21] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of pigment(s) ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and/or composition B.
[Claim 22] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one and/or the other of compositions A and B also comprises at least one non-volatile silicone, preferably chosen from non-amino silicones, amino silicones, and mixtures thereof, preferably composition A.
[Claim 23] Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a step of applying to the hair keratin fibres a composition D comprising at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one carboxylic group.
[Claim 24] Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total amount of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group present in composition D ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D.
[Claim 25] Hair colouring device comprising at least two compartments containing:
- in a first compartment (El), a composition A as defined in any one of the preceding Claims 1 to 22;
- in a second compartment (E2), a composition B as defined in any one of the preceding Claims 1 to 22;
- optionally, in a third compartment (E3), a composition D as defined in either of Claims 23 and 24.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FRFR2105975 | 2021-06-07 | ||
| FR2105975A FR3123567B1 (en) | 2021-06-07 | 2021-06-07 | Hair coloring process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a polymer with a carboxylic group and a non-silicone fatty substance |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2022258494A1 true WO2022258494A1 (en) | 2022-12-15 |
Family
ID=77710919
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2022/065117 Ceased WO2022258494A1 (en) | 2021-06-07 | 2022-06-02 | Hair dyeing process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, of a polymer bearing a carboxylic group and of a non-silicone fatty substance |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3123567B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2022258494A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2024133696A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Process for dyeing keratin hair fibers comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a compound containing at least one carboxylic acid group, an amino silicone and a colouring agent. |
| WO2024133716A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Process for dyeing keratin hair fibers comprising the application of a treatment with an alkaline agent and of a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a colouring agent |
Families Citing this family (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR3157154A1 (en) * | 2023-12-21 | 2025-06-27 | L'oreal | A method of coloring hair comprising the application of a composition comprising a cyanoacrylate, followed by the application of a composition comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide and a coloring agent |
| FR3157156A1 (en) * | 2023-12-21 | 2025-06-27 | L'oreal | A method of coloring hair comprising applying a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide and a coloring agent and applying a composition comprising an acid |
| FR3157157A1 (en) * | 2023-12-21 | 2025-06-27 | L'oreal | A method of coloring hair comprising applying a (poly)carbodiimide compound and applying a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent |
| FR3163844A1 (en) * | 2024-06-27 | 2026-01-02 | L'oreal | A hair coloring process that uses a composition including a direct dye that is recirculated over the hair. |
| FR3163860A1 (en) * | 2024-06-27 | 2026-01-02 | L'oreal | A hair coloring process comprising the application of at least two reducing agents followed by a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent. |
| FR3163849A1 (en) * | 2024-06-27 | 2026-01-02 | L'oreal | A hair coloring process comprising the application of hydrogen peroxide, followed by the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent. |
| FR3163862A1 (en) * | 2024-06-27 | 2026-01-02 | L'oreal | A hair coloring process comprising the application of a mineral salt and a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent. |
| FR3163857A1 (en) * | 2024-06-27 | 2026-01-02 | L'oreal | A hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition including a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a pigment functionalized with a phosphate additive, and a reactive polymer |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2024133696A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Process for dyeing keratin hair fibers comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a compound containing at least one carboxylic acid group, an amino silicone and a colouring agent. |
| WO2024133716A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-27 | L'oreal | Process for dyeing keratin hair fibers comprising the application of a treatment with an alkaline agent and of a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a colouring agent |
| FR3143987A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-28 | L'oreal | Hair coloring process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a compound having at least one carboxylic acid group, an amino silicone and a coloring agent |
| FR3143994A1 (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2024-06-28 | L'oreal | A process for coloring hair comprising the application of a treatment with an alkaline agent and a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR3123567B1 (en) | 2023-12-29 |
| FR3123567A1 (en) | 2022-12-09 |
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