WO2024197632A1 - Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau - Google Patents

Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024197632A1
WO2024197632A1 PCT/CN2023/084654 CN2023084654W WO2024197632A1 WO 2024197632 A1 WO2024197632 A1 WO 2024197632A1 CN 2023084654 W CN2023084654 W CN 2023084654W WO 2024197632 A1 WO2024197632 A1 WO 2024197632A1
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radical
composition
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Lingwei XU
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to CN202380094010.3A priority Critical patent/CN120693143A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2023/084654 priority patent/WO2024197632A1/fr
Priority to FR2304262A priority patent/FR3147101A1/fr
Publication of WO2024197632A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024197632A1/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a composition for cleansing the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for cleansing the skin using said composition.
  • Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.
  • Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup removing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated. However, they exhibit the disadvantages of being heavy and of not conferring a good skin finish upon application, which are not desired from a cosmetic viewpoint.
  • Foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing or makeup removing action by virtue of the surfactants, which suspend the fatty residues on the face. They are effective and pleasant to use because they foam and they are easy to remove.
  • traditional foaming cleanser may include more polymers or high amount of surfactants. However, these foaming cleansers would bring undesired cleansing sensory and skin finish.
  • the rinse-off speed is not quick and they do not deliver good squeakiness after rinse-off, which bring unpleasant usage experience.
  • compositions for cleansing the skin which can provide good cleansing sensory (including quick rinse-off speed and good squeakiness) , and good skin finish (including non-sticky, non-tight, non-dry and moisturized feeling) .
  • the present invention provides a composition for cleansing the skin, comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention can provide a quick rinse-off speed, good squeakiness, and skin finish.
  • composition according to the present invention is more sustainable.
  • composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product.
  • a composition can be applied on the skin (i.e. face, and/or body) , and then rinsed with flush water.
  • the present invention provides a process for cleansing the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.
  • keratin material is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the hair. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • squeaky feeling means that it is kind of astringent and non-lubricated feeling.
  • composition of the present invention comprising:
  • the composition of the present invention comprises more than 1.0 wt. %of at least one compound of ceramide type, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term “compound of ceramide type” is understood to mean natural or synthetic ceramides and/or glycoceramides and/or pseudoceramides and/or neoceramides.
  • the compound of ceramide type used is a natural ceramide.
  • Compounds of ceramide type are known as one of the key compositions of skin barrier, resulting in repair function of the skin barrier.
  • Compounds of ceramide type are a family of lipid molecules, composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid, and are found in high concentrations within the cell membrane of cells.
  • the compounds of ceramide type which can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I) :
  • R denotes a hydrogen atom or a mono-or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, R’a nd R” are hydrocarbon radicals, the sum of the carbon atoms of which is between 9 and 30, R’ being a divalent radical;
  • R 8 denotes a C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer varying from 1 to 12;
  • -R 2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a radical of saccharide type, in particular a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m or sulphogalactosyl radical, a sulphate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
  • -R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 33 hydrocarbon radical, it being possible forthe hydroxyl or hydroxyls to be esterified by an inorganic acid or an acid R 7 COOH, R 7 having the same meanings as hereinabove, and it being possible forthe hydroxyl or hydroxyls to be etherified by a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m , sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, it also being possible for R 3 to be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl radicals;
  • R 3 denotes a C 15 -C 26 ⁇ -hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified by a C 16 -C 30 ⁇ -hydroxy acid;
  • -R 4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical, an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 50 hydrocarbon radical or a -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -O-R 6 radical, in which R 6 denotes a C 10 -C 26 hydrocarbon radical, or an R 8 -O-CO- (CH 2 ) p radical, in which R 8 denotes a C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer varying from 1 to 12;
  • -R 5 denotes a hydrogen atom or an optionally mono-or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical, it being possible for the hydroxyl or hydroxyls to be etherified by a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m , sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical;
  • R 3 and R 5 denote hydrogen or when R 3 denotes hydrogen and R 5 denotes methyl, then R 4 does not denote a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the compounds of ceramide type which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which R 1 denotes an optionally hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R 3 denotes an optionally hydroxylated and linear C 11 -C 17 radical and preferably C 13 -C 15 radical. R 3 preferably denotes an ⁇ -hydroxycetyl radical and R 2 , R 4 and R 5 denote a hydrogen atom.
  • Such compounds are, for example:
  • Use may also be made of specific mixtures, such as, for example, the mixtures of ceramide (s) 2 and ceramide (s) 5 according to the Downing classification.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl radical
  • Questamide H bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide
  • Quest sold by Quest
  • the ceramide is selected from 2-oleamido-1, 3-octadecanediol (its CTFA name) , sold, for example, as MEXANYL GZ by Chimex, and ceramide NP (CTFA name N-stearoylphytosphingosine) , sold, for example, as CERAMIDE III by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
  • the compound of ceramide type is present in an amount ranging from 1.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.3 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises more than 1.0 wt. %of at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactant may be selected from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant are selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant having only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
  • an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized by a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH, for example) and containing no cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate (s) or sulfonate (s) which have at least one sulfate group (-OSO 3 H or-OSO 3 - ) , and/or a sulfonate group (-SO 3 H or-SO 3 ) , or else carboxylic or carboxylate surfactants having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH or-COO - ) .
  • anionic carboxylate surfactants may include one or more sulfate or sulfonate groups; anionic sulfonate surfactants may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate or carboxylate groups; and anionic sulfate surfactants may optionally further comprise one or more carboxylate or sulfonate groups.
  • Anionic surfactants which may be used include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alpha olefin sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfo acetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglycinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids,
  • Ethylene polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may also be cited, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular, such as sold by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
  • R 1 represents a radical or a combination of linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl in C8-C22, an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical, a R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 -group with R 2 denoting an alkyl radical linear or branched alkenyl in C9-C21; preferably R 1 being an alkyl radical having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and aryl preferably denoting phenyl,
  • -n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which may vary from 2 to 24 and preferably 2 to 10,
  • -A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids preferably used in the present invention are selected from those of formula (1) wherein:
  • -R 1 denotes a radical or a combination of (C12-C14) alkyl radicals, cocoyl, oleyl, a nonyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • -A denotes hydrogen or sodium
  • -n is from 2 to 20 and preferably 2 to 10.
  • Polyoxy (C6-C24) alkylenated ether carboxylic acids and their salts are preferably used, and also polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; in particular those having from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups.
  • R 1 is a C12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes hydrogen or sodium and n is from 2 to 10.
  • Salts are especially selected from alkali metal salts, especially sodium, potassium, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol such as triethanolamine salts or monoethanolamine salts, and magnesium salts.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
  • acyl isethionates preferably (C12-C20) acyl isethionates
  • alkali or alkaline earth metal particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from (C6-C24) alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate, isethionates, (C12-C20) acylglycinates such as potassium cocoyl glycinate, (C10-C22) carboxylates, such as potassium cocoate, and combinations thereof.
  • amphoteric surfactants that may be used in the invention may be betaine surfactants.
  • the betaine surfactants may be derived from a variety of natural oils or fatty acids.
  • Exemplary useful betaines include, but are not limited to, those of the following formulae (Ia-Id) :
  • R 10 is an alkyl group having from 8-20 carbon atoms
  • n is an integer from 1 to 6.
  • Particularly useful betaines include (C8-C20) alkylbetaines and (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, for example, coco-betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, stearyl betaine, or mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, especially cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Nonionic surfactant can be nonionic alkylpolyglycoside surfactants, especially represented by formula (I) :
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • -G is a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • -1 is a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
  • -v is a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
  • alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of formula (I)described above wherein:
  • R 1 denotes a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • -t is a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
  • -G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization ie the value of v can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.
  • Glycosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally 1-6 or 1-4, preferably 1-4.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, even more preferably an C8-C16 alkylpolyglucosides, and particularly preferably chosen among decylglucosides, caprylyl/capryl glucosides, laurylglucoside, cocoylglucoside, caprylyiglucoside, and combinations thereof.
  • C8-C16 alkylpolyglucosides is used, in particular chosen from decylglucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside, cocoylglucoside, caprylylglucoside, and combinations thereof.
  • the groups R 8 to R 11 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to R 11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and. preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as,in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; and
  • X - is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from (C1-C30) alkyl, (C1-C30) alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, (C1-C30) alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkyl (C2-C6) alkylamido, (C12-C22) alkyl acetate and hydroxy (C1-C30) alkyl groups.
  • tetraalkylammonium halides preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylanmionium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.
  • palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides preferably chlorides
  • stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) -ammonium halides preferably chlorides, such as the product sold under the name 70 by the company VAN DYK.
  • R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from. 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R 14 represents a (C1-C4) alkyl group
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group
  • X - is an anion, preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates;
  • R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a combination of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 14 denotes a methyl group, and R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product of this kind is sold for example under the name W 75 by the company Rewo.
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl group containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
  • R 17 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group– (CH 2 ) 3 -N + (R 16a ) (R 17a ) (R 18a ) , wherein R 16a , R 17a , R 18a , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X - is an anion preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alky lsulfonates and (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89) , and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 75) .
  • R 22 is chosen from (C1-C6) alkyl groups and hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl or dihydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl groups;
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • r1 and t1 which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15,
  • X - is an anion
  • R 23 denotes R 27
  • R 25 denotes R 29
  • the alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • R 23 is an R 27 hydrocarbon group, it may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is an R 29 hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X - is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.
  • the anion X - is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • -R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • -z is equal to 0 or 1
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 2s which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialky
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, amixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of formula (la) and the compounds of formula (IVa) , preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethyihydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium salt.
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants of sulfate (s) , sulfonate (s) , carboxylic, and carboxylate (s) , amphoteric surfactants of betaine, and combinations thereof;
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants of acylglycinates, acylglutamates and carboxylates, acyl group thereof including 10 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably a linear acyl group including from 10 to 18 carbon atoms; amphoteric surfactants of (C10-C18) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines; and combinations thereof.
  • anionic surfactants of acylglycinates, acylglutamates and carboxylates acyl group thereof including 10 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably a linear acyl group including from 10 to 18 carbon atoms
  • amphoteric surfactants of (C10-C18) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines and combinations thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and combinations thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of a (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaine, a C10-C18 carboxylate, and an acylglycinate.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises cocamidopropyl betaine, potassium cocoate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of a (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaine, a C10-C18 carboxylate, and an acylglycinate, especially cocamidopropyl betaine, potassium cocoate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate, as only surfactants, to provide a mild cleanser.
  • the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.2 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
  • the composition according to the present application further comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glcol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the C2-C8 polyol is glycerin.
  • the composition according to invention comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 70 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 40 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may represent from 30 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 40 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from additives conventionally used in skin cleansers and cosmetic active ingredients.
  • pH adjusting agents e.g. citric acid
  • antibacterial agents e.g., antibacterial agents, fragrances; thickeners; colorants, and the like.
  • cosmetic active ingredients mention can be made to the following: humectants, peeling agents, whitening active ingredients, antioxidants, and the like.
  • a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, comprising:
  • composition of at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants of acylglycinates and carboxylates, acyl group thereof being a linear acyl group including from 10 to 18 carbon atoms; amphoteric surfactants of (C10-C18) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines, and combinations thereof; and
  • composition according to the present invention does not comprise any oil.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used in a process for cleansing the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the skin, in particular the face.
  • composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a lotion, acream, aliquid, or a gel.
  • composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
  • the present invention relates to a process for cleansing the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.
  • compositions according to invention examples (IE) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-4 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise specified.
  • POTASSIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE (and) POTASSIUM COCOATE 1) : comprising 21 wt. %of POTASSIUM COCOYL GLYCINATE, 9 wt. %of POTASSIUM COCOATE and 70 wt. %of water.
  • compositions of Invention examples 1-3 belong to the present invention.
  • Composition of comparative example 1 comprises less than 1.0 wt. %of a surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition of comparative example 2 comprises less than 1.0 wt. %of CERAMIDE NP, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise CERAMIDE NP.
  • Composition of comparative example 4 does not comprise any surfactant.
  • compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example.
  • compositions prepared were evaluated on rinse off speed, squeakiness, cleansing sensory, and skin finish.
  • Rinse off speed, squeakiness, cleansing sensory, and skin finish were evaluated by at least 6 volunteers as follows.
  • the volunteers are invited to wash face with the compositions to be tested. Applying 0.5 g of a composition according to the invention (or comparative composition) on the face, and massaging the face with hands. Afterfoaming, face was rinsed with wet hands only. The rinse off speed is evaluated by the times it takes to have tactilely squeaky feeling. The less times it takes, the fast the rinse-off speed is.
  • the face was half-dired with tissue, then the stickiness (level 1-5, 5 is the strongest) , tightness (level 1-5, 5 is the strongest) , and dryness (level 1-5, 5 is the strongest) , and moisturizing feeling were evaluated (level 1-5, 5 is the strongest) .
  • the face was wiped to totally dry and the same attributes were evaluated again after 5 minutes. The combination of these attributes are marked as “skin finish” , non-sticky, non-tight, non-dry and moisturized feeling during both half dry and 5 minutes later means “good skin finish” in this definition, and the skin finish was classified into level 1 to 5, wherein level 5 is the best.
  • compositions of invention examples 1-3 show quicker rinse off speed, better squeakiness, better cleansing sensory, and better skin finish.
  • compositions of invention examples 1-3 comprise materials of natural origin, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine and ceramide NP and are more sustainable.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
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Abstract

Une composition de nettoyage de la peau comprend a) plus de 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'au moins un composé de type céramide; et b) plus de 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'au moins un tensioactif. Un procédé de nettoyage de la peau comprend l'application de la composition sur la peau et le rinçage de ladite composition après une période de temps facultative.
PCT/CN2023/084654 2023-03-29 2023-03-29 Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau Ceased WO2024197632A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202380094010.3A CN120693143A (zh) 2023-03-29 2023-03-29 用于清洁皮肤的组合物
PCT/CN2023/084654 WO2024197632A1 (fr) 2023-03-29 2023-03-29 Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau
FR2304262A FR3147101A1 (fr) 2023-03-29 2023-04-27 Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau

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PCT/CN2023/084654 WO2024197632A1 (fr) 2023-03-29 2023-03-29 Composition pour le nettoyage de la peau

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WO2024197632A1 true WO2024197632A1 (fr) 2024-10-03

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US20020183217A1 (en) * 2001-03-30 2002-12-05 L'oreal Detergent cosmetic compositions containing an anionic surfactant derived from amino acids and salts thereof and an insoluble conditioning agent and uses thereof
EP1430871A1 (fr) * 2002-12-19 2004-06-23 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques contenant un tensioactif amphotère et un céramide et leurs utilisations
CN101049280A (zh) * 2006-04-04 2007-10-10 莱雅公司 包括至少一种羟基酸、至少一种单糖或者二糖和至少一种神经酰胺的化妆品组合物以及方法
WO2022053140A1 (fr) * 2020-09-10 2022-03-17 Symrise Ag Formulation de pseudo-céramides contenant un tensioactif

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CN120693143A (zh) 2025-09-23
FR3147101A1 (fr) 2024-10-04

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