WO2025201736A1 - Composition cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique

Info

Publication number
WO2025201736A1
WO2025201736A1 PCT/EP2025/054211 EP2025054211W WO2025201736A1 WO 2025201736 A1 WO2025201736 A1 WO 2025201736A1 EP 2025054211 W EP2025054211 W EP 2025054211W WO 2025201736 A1 WO2025201736 A1 WO 2025201736A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
scalp health
health agent
surfactant
active
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/EP2025/054211
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Xiaoyun Pan
Xuezhi TANG
Xinran ZHOU
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Conopco Inc
Original Assignee
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Conopco Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Global IP Ltd, Unilever IP Holdings BV, Conopco Inc filed Critical Unilever Global IP Ltd
Publication of WO2025201736A1 publication Critical patent/WO2025201736A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Skin surface lipids can be categorized as sebaceous lipids and extracellular lipids based on their origin and composition. Sebaceous lipids are secreted from sebaceous glands and form a layer of hydrolipidic film together with sweat secreted by sweat glands. These components moisturize the skin, prevent moisture loss, and resist harm from foreign matters.
  • the main lipid components include squalene, triglycerides, free fatty acids, wax esters, cholesterol, and cholesteryl ester.
  • Extracellular lipids mainly refer to lipids among stratum corneum, mainly including ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol.
  • Lamellar bodies eventually released lipids precursors and lipid synthases into extracellular spaces of stratum corneum, and then, the lipids precursors were catalyzed by the lipid synthases to produce extracellular lipids.
  • the skin/scalp and hair are exposed to many pollutants, the surface lipids on skin/scalp and hair are easily oxidized.
  • the present inventors have now found unexpectedly that the combination of certain scalp health agent and a specific natural active can provide improved lipid protection efficacy onto a topical surface of a human or animal body, preferably on skin/scalp and hair.
  • US2023262996 discloses a hair care composition comprising (i) a benzophenone derivative selected from benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone- 8, and any combination thereof and (ii) a piroctone olamine. However, it does not disclose the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof.
  • US2022040068 (Conopco, Inc., d/b/a Unilever) discloses a hair care composition comprising composite particles comprising zinc pyrithione as photolabile antidandruff agent and an organic UV filter such as benzophenone-8. However, it does not disclose the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof.
  • WO2010044076 discloses topical composition comprising xanthohumol as active agent that improves the general condition of skin or hair.
  • the composition may comprise an antimicrobial active such as piroctone olamine or selenium sulfide, azoles, or an anti-dandruff active such as salts of pyrithione.
  • an antimicrobial active such as piroctone olamine or selenium sulfide, azoles, or an anti-dandruff active such as salts of pyrithione.
  • the weight ratio of the amount of said active to that of said scalp health agent is from 1 : 100 to 100: 1.
  • US2016346184 discloses a method of improving the health of hair emerging from a scalp comprising a reduction of oxidative stress in the scalp by application of a composition resulting in reduction in oxidative stress in pre-emergent hair as demonstrated by reduced oxidative stress in emergent hair, wherein oxidative stress is measured by a level of a biomarker such as squalene.
  • a biomarker such as squalene.
  • it does not comprise the natural active selected from cotoin, isoliquiritigenin, xanthohumol, pinostrobin chaicone, and a mixture thereof
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in protecting surface lipids against oxidation on a topical surface of a human or animal body.
  • the present invention is directed to a non-therapeutic method of providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, O3 and engine exhaust comprising a step of applying a safe and effective amount of a cosmetic composition of the first aspect.
  • the scalp health agent is selected from a group consisting of polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, hydroxamic acid, hinokitiol, azole compound and selenium sulfide.
  • the scalp health agent is a polyvalent metal salt of pyrithione, it is preferably zinc pyrithione.
  • the scalp health agent is a hydroxamic acid
  • it is preferably selected from a group consisting of a piroctone compound (a cyclic hydroxamic acid), caprylhydroxamic acid and benzohydroxamic acid, more preferably piroctone olamine.
  • the scalp health agent is an azole compound, it is selected from the group consisting of climbazole and ketoconazole.
  • the scalp health agent is particularly preferred a piroctone compound, more preferably piroctone olamine.
  • the scalp health agent may be present in an amount from 0.01% to 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to 5%, and from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise extract of Goto bark, Aniba coto or Garcinia virgata which in turn comprises cotoin.
  • the composition may comprise extract of Licorice, which in turn comprises isoliquiritigenin.
  • the composition may comprise extract of Humulus lupulus, which in turn comprises xanthohumol.
  • the composition may comprise extract of extract of Pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan), or extract of Lindera umbellate, or extract of Carya cathayensis, which in turn comprises pinostrobin chaicone.
  • the weight ratio of the natural active to that of the scalp health agent is from 1 : 100 to 100:1 , preferably from 1 : 10 to 10:1 , more preferably from 1 :4 to 4: 1.
  • the composition comprises from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.25 to 5% of the natural active by weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier is such that the composition can be prepared, e.g., as a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand wash or face wash product, cream, lotion, gel, powder, ointment, deodorant, hand sanitiser or a soap bar and the rest of the ingredients would vary accordingly. It is preferred that the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.
  • the composition is a rinse-off or leave-on product, more preferably a hair care composition.
  • the composition is a rinse-off product.
  • the composition is preferably a leave-on composition.
  • the composition comprises a cleansing surfactant.
  • the composition of this invention preferably comprises a cleansing surfactant comprising an anionic surfactant.
  • Non-limiting examples of suitable anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.
  • Typical anionic surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include, but not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates.
  • Preferred alkyl sulphates are C8-18 alky sulphates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulphates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Examples are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS). It is particularly preferred that the anionic surfactant is alkyl ether sulphate.
  • the anionic surfactant is an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 3, preferably an ethoxylated alkyl sulphate a degree of ethoxylation of less than 2, more preferably sodium laureth sulphate (1 EO).
  • the surfactant is sulfate-free.
  • RI-CH CH-CH 2 -SO 3 -M + (II) in which Ri is selected from linear or branched alkyl groups having from 11 to 13 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; and M is a solubilizing cation;
  • Ri in general formula (II) is a C14 or C16 linear alkyl group.
  • M in general formula (II) is selected from alkali metal cations (such as sodium or potassium), ammonium cations and substituted ammonium cations (such as alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium).
  • alkali metal cations such as sodium or potassium
  • ammonium cations such as sodium or potassium
  • substituted ammonium cations such as alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.
  • alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactants of general formula (II) may be made by sulfating C14-16 olefins derived from natural gas. The process can also yield mixtures of homologues and low levels of unreacted olefins.
  • the amount of alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant, at 100 % activity, of general formula (II) ranges from 3 to 13 %, preferably from 3.5 to 12%, more preferably from 3 to 10%, (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).
  • composition may comprise an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, selected from an alkyl betaine of general formula (III)
  • the preferred surfactant (III) is selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine and mixtures thereof.
  • Alkyl hydroxy sultaines are preferred, particularly lauryl hydroxy sultaine.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of general formula (III), (IV), (V) or (VI) or mixtures thereof preferably ranges from 1 to 6%, more preferably from 1.5 to 5%, most preferably from 2 to 3.5 % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is preferably selected from a betaine amphoteric surfactant of general formula (III), which is coco betaine, an amphoteric surfactant of general formula (IV), which is lauryl hydroxy sultaine, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of from 1 to 4 % (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).
  • the combined amount of (II) and (III) ranges from 4 to 20 wt %, preferably from 5 to 17 wt %, most preferably from 8 to 15 wt % (based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % activity).
  • the composition may comprise alpha olefin sulfonate in an amount ranging from 3.25 to 8% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition and 100 % active material); and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from coco betaine, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, coco aminopropyl hydroxy sultaine, lauryl amphoacetate or mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1 to 4 % by weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the alpha olefin sulfonate anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant may range from 1 :1 to 6:1 , preferably from 1.5:1 to 5.
  • the anionic surfactants are typically present in the composition of the present invention at a level of from 0.5 to 20%, more preferably from 2 to 16% and most preferably from 3 to 16%, by weight of the composition.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactant examples include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, wherein the alkyl group has from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric surfactant is a betaine surfactant. It is preferred that the betaine surfactant is one of alkyl amidopropyl betaines. Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is particularly preferred.
  • CAPB Cocamidopropyl betaine
  • the composition comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt.% of an amphoteric surfactant by weight of the composition.
  • Suitable emulsified silicones for use in the hair care compositions of this invention are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsion is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size.
  • Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer.
  • the solid cosmetic composition is preferably in form of a shaped solid, more preferably a bar.
  • the solid topical composition is particularly useful for skin cleansing in particular for hand wash or a face wash.
  • inorganic particulate material is also a suitable carrier.
  • the topical composition is in a solid form.
  • the inorganic particulate material is talc.
  • the solid antimicrobial composition is particularly useful as a talcum powder for application on face or body.
  • composition of the present invention is suitable for use in wipes for personal hygiene.
  • the present invention provides for a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust, preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair.
  • the protection is against 03 and engine exhaust.
  • it is preferred that the protection is against UV.
  • the present invention provides for a cosmetic composition of the first aspect for use in protecting surface lipids against oxidation on a topical surface of a human or animal body, preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair.
  • the present invention provides for a non-therapeutic method of providing surface lipids protection benefit on a topical surface of a human or animal body against the pollutants of the external environment including UV, 03 and engine exhaust comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition of the first aspect.
  • the surface is preferably on skin/scalp and hair, more preferably on scalp and hair.
  • the protection is against 03 and engine exhaust.
  • it is preferred that the protection is against UV.
  • composition When the composition is a shampoo, it is topically applied to the hair and then massaged into the hair and scalp. Then it is rinsed with water prior to drying the hair.
  • GC- FID gas chromatography flame ionization detection
  • An Agilent 7890GC coupled to a flame ionization detector (Agilent, USA) was used for sample analysis.
  • the sample separation was conducted on an Agilent DB-5MS column (30m*0.25mm*0.25pm).
  • the temperature program was 80°C for 1 minutes, and then climbed to 320°C for 5 minutes with a 20°C/minute heating rates.
  • the detector temperature was 280°C and inlet temperature was 300°C.
  • the inject volume was 1.0 pL and split ratio was 20:1.
  • the carrier were H2 (40 mL/min) and Air (40 mL/minute), and the make up gas was N2 (25 mL/minute).
  • the residual percentage of squalene was calculated with the lipid mass before and after exposure.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant i) un agent de santé du cuir chevelu; et ii) un actif naturel choisi parmi la cotoïne, l'isoliquiritigénine, le xanthohumol, la pinostrobine chalcone, et un mélange de ceux-ci; l'agent de santé du cuir chevelu étant choisi dans un groupe constitué de sels métalliques polyvalents de pyrithione, d'acide hydroxamique, d'hinokitiol, de composé azole et de sulfure de sélénium; le rapport en poids de la quantité dudit agent actif à celui dudit agent de santé du cuir chevelu étant de 1 : 100 à 100 : 1.
PCT/EP2025/054211 2024-03-26 2025-02-17 Composition cosmétique Pending WO2025201736A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CNPCT/CN2024/083795 2024-03-26
CN2024083795 2024-03-26
EP24171059.9 2024-04-18
EP24171059 2024-04-18

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2025201736A1 true WO2025201736A1 (fr) 2025-10-02

Family

ID=94605633

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2025/054211 Pending WO2025201736A1 (fr) 2024-03-26 2025-02-17 Composition cosmétique

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2025201736A1 (fr)

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4867964A (en) * 1986-12-16 1989-09-19 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing hydroxylated chalcone derivatives and its use for protecting the skin and the hair against luminous radiations, new hydroxylated chalcone derivatives employed and process for their preparation
WO1996031188A1 (fr) 1995-04-06 1996-10-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour traitement capillaire
US20040191190A1 (en) * 2001-08-02 2004-09-30 Gilles Pauly Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing plant extracts
WO2010044076A2 (fr) 2008-10-16 2010-04-22 Sederma Utilisation cosmétique et topique de xanthohumol comprenant un éclaircissement du teint de la peau et une réduction de rougeurs cutanées
US20160346184A1 (en) 2015-05-28 2016-12-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of improving hair quality by improving scalp health
US20220040068A1 (en) 2018-12-21 2022-02-10 Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever Hair care composition comprising pyrithione
US20230262996A1 (en) 2022-02-16 2023-08-17 Imec Vzw 3d integrated charge-coupled device memory and method of fabricating the same
US20230363996A1 (en) * 2020-10-27 2023-11-16 Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever Hair care composition

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4867964A (en) * 1986-12-16 1989-09-19 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing hydroxylated chalcone derivatives and its use for protecting the skin and the hair against luminous radiations, new hydroxylated chalcone derivatives employed and process for their preparation
WO1996031188A1 (fr) 1995-04-06 1996-10-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour traitement capillaire
US20040191190A1 (en) * 2001-08-02 2004-09-30 Gilles Pauly Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing plant extracts
WO2010044076A2 (fr) 2008-10-16 2010-04-22 Sederma Utilisation cosmétique et topique de xanthohumol comprenant un éclaircissement du teint de la peau et une réduction de rougeurs cutanées
US20160346184A1 (en) 2015-05-28 2016-12-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of improving hair quality by improving scalp health
US20220040068A1 (en) 2018-12-21 2022-02-10 Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever Hair care composition comprising pyrithione
US20230363996A1 (en) * 2020-10-27 2023-11-16 Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever Hair care composition
US20230262996A1 (en) 2022-02-16 2023-08-17 Imec Vzw 3d integrated charge-coupled device memory and method of fabricating the same

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 12 April 2019 (2019-04-12), ANONYMOUS: "Scalp Essence", XP093259552, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6480565/ Database accession no. 6480565 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 December 2022 (2022-12-15), ANONYMOUS: "Anti-Dandruff and Anti-Iching Type 3x Anti-Dandruff Shampoo", XP093259474, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/10437758/ Database accession no. 10437758 *

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