WO2026020214A1 - Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée

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Publication number
WO2026020214A1
WO2026020214A1 PCT/BR2024/050325 BR2024050325W WO2026020214A1 WO 2026020214 A1 WO2026020214 A1 WO 2026020214A1 BR 2024050325 W BR2024050325 W BR 2024050325W WO 2026020214 A1 WO2026020214 A1 WO 2026020214A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
mixtures
cosmetic sunscreen
sunscreen composition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
PCT/BR2024/050325
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
João Vitor Florido FRANCA
Macarena MOYANO
Maria Clara NUCCI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to PCT/BR2024/050325 priority Critical patent/WO2026020214A1/fr
Priority to FR2409530A priority patent/FR3164894A3/fr
Publication of WO2026020214A1 publication Critical patent/WO2026020214A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions, comprising (a) at least one emollient; (b) at least one solvent; (c) at least one pigment; (d) at least one filler; (e) at least one UV filter; (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and (g) at least one surfactant.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, particularly a minimum UVA protection factor, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • a sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties.
  • a tinted sunscreen composition with high SPF and UVA/UVB protection with the capability of providing make-up properties to the skin to correct imperfections, preferably with high coverage that is capable of suiting different skin tones.
  • the degree of coverage provided by a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition.
  • Inverted emulsion technologies tend to have more issues related to UV filter availability and solubilization, which means that is more propense to crystallize the UV filters over time, losing effectiveness of the product.
  • the present invention is related to W/O emulsion where dispersed water is contained in a continuous external oil phase.
  • a hybrid product i.e., a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising make-up properties, high SPF, free of silicone, high coverage to the skin (high quantity of pigments) in order to provide a high color coverage payoff when applied to the skin, which is stable (not presenting migration and separation), providing sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory and pleasant.
  • the inventors of the present invention unexpected developed a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising the desired properties mentioned above, in the form of a stable inverted emulsion (W/O), comprising high amounts of UV filters and pigments, and a specific combination of emollients, solvents, fillers, structuring and film forming agents (fatty compounds and polymers) and surfactants, without silicones nor offensive UV filters, providing a high coverage on the skin (make-up properties), water resistance, creamy texture, light sensorially and natural/comfortable skin finish while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.
  • W/O stable inverted emulsion
  • the present invention aims to provide tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF values, which allows a higher photoprotection of keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and capable of tinting the skin to correct imperfections, delivering good coverage and a natural and comfortable skin finish and avoiding transferring issues.
  • the present invention is directed to new tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising (a) at least one emollient; (b) at least one solvent; (c) at least one pigment; (d) at least one filler; (e) at least one UV filter; (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and (g) at least one surfactant, with high amounts of UV filters and pigments, providing a high coverage on the skin (make-up properties), water resistance, creamy texture, light sensorially and natural/comfortable skin finish while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.
  • Figures 1a to 1 d shows the microscopic analysis of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1 submitted to the accelerated crystallization test.
  • Figures 3a and 3b show the results of the accelerated stability test in glass packaging of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention.
  • Figures 3c and 3d show the results of the accelerated stability test in tube packaging of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention.
  • Figure 3e shows the application of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention in skin after the accelerated stability test in glass and tube packaging.
  • Figure 4a shows the macroscopically result of the high stress test of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention.
  • Figure 4b shows the data analysis of the high stress test (instability Index vs time) of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention in view of the comparative sample C1 .
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise a suspending agent selected from disteardimonium hectorite.
  • the suspending agent is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one emollient is selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one emollient is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 25.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 17.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one solvent is selected from C15- 19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one solvent is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 3.0% to about 17.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one pigment is selected from (Cl 77497) red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77499) black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77492) yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77891 ) titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one pigment is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 3.0% to about 15.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one filler is selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one filler is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .0% to about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one UV filter is an organic LIV filter selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the UV filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene.
  • the fatty compound and polymer system is selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8.
  • the fatty compound and polymer system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from about 10% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 15% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the fatty compound and polymer system.
  • the polyamide-8 is present in a concentration ranging from about 70% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 75% to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the fatty compound and polymer system.
  • the at least one surfactant is selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from 40 to 80, preferably from 50 to 70, more preferably about 70.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in the form of an inverted W/O emulsion, i.e., water in oil (W/O) emulsion.
  • the pH of the water phase of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition ranges from about 5.5 to about 7.5. In a more preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is about 7.0.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of silicone.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents a high SPF property, which provides several beneficial attributes to the product, including the protection of the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, known as UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible and infrared light, an effective make-up effect, which provides a good coverage and a comfortable skin finish, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, which does not melt on high temperature in the face, has an imperceptible touch and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention provides water resistance and is stable over the time.
  • the tinted cosmetic composition of the present invention also provides make-up effect (good coverage, comfortable skin finish).
  • the present invention is related to the use of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition for the manufacture of a product that provides photoprotection of keratinous materials (preferably the skin) with color coverage.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (/.e., “consisting of”).
  • the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.
  • invert emulsion refers to mixtures consisting of an aqueous phase and emulsified surfactants in an oil medium. Invert emulsions are known as water-in-oil emulsions (W/O).
  • SPF refers to the “Sun Protection Factor”, which indicates the level of protection against UVB radiation of a product.
  • the SPF indicates the time a person can be exposed to sunlight using sunscreen before getting sunburnt and the time they can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburnt.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emollient, preferably oily emollients.
  • emollients are oil-phase ingredients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof.
  • the emollients according to the present invention are selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one solvent, preferably drying solvents and, more preferably, alkanes.
  • the solvents according to the present invention are selected from C15-19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises pigments.
  • the pigments according to the present invention are selected from (Cl 77497) red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77499) black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77492) yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77891 ) titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one filler.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention include a spherical amorphous silica.
  • the mean size of these particles of spherical amorphous silica is less than 15.0 pm and more particularly ranges from 3 to 10 pm.
  • the particles of spherical amorphous silica useful according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • the spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, although in certain embodiments it is free from such coatings.
  • the “silica silylate” according to the present invention is hydrophobic silica aerogels, as described in WO 2021/016680.
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
  • the fillers according to the present invention are selected from selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • UV FILTERS are selected from selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one UV filter.
  • UV filters are compounds that are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the UV filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene.
  • UV filters according to the present invention are selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organic UV filters may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the organic UV filter may be solid or liquid.
  • solid and liquid mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
  • organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; f3,fB- diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic
  • Anthranilic compounds Menthyl anthranilate, Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Salicylic compounds ethylhexyl salicylate; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate; and TEA salicylate.
  • Camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor.
  • Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone); benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone); Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone; benzophenone-4 (hydroxym ethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid); benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); benzophenone-8; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate); and benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis- benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
  • pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
  • glyceryl PABA glyceryl PABA
  • PEG-25 PABA PABA
  • Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184, and EP-893,119.
  • Benzoxazole compounds 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2- yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine.
  • the organic UV filter(s) can be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2- hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone,
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty compound and polymer system, preferably an oily structuring and film forming system.
  • the fatty compound and polymer system has the function of providing structuring and film forming to the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention.
  • the fatty compound and polymer system is selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8.
  • the “carnauba wax” or “Copernicia cerifera wax” relates to a solid carnauba wax.
  • Solid carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf stems of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera.
  • the carnauba wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 and 86 °C.
  • the carnauba wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, 5 from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1 % by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity.
  • the polyamide-8 has the chemical name of Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
  • the polyamide-8 is a gelling agent/oil- structuring agent/film-former.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactants according to the present invention are selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the tinted sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional UV filters, active compounds, fatty compounds, additional fillers, perfume/fragrance, additional polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional surfactants, vitamins, pigments, pH adjuster, mineral additives and mixtures thereof.
  • any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen especially from such as additional UV filters, active compounds, fatty compounds, additional fillers, perfume/fragrance, additional polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional surfactants, vitamins, pigments, pH adjuster, mineral additives and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 80.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • a non-limiting example regarding a process for manufacturing a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be as follows:
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition is as follows:
  • emollient selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;
  • At least one pigment selected from red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl;
  • At least one filler selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof;
  • at least one UV filter selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;
  • At least one surfactant selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof, wherein all weights based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are according to Examples 1 to 6 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 6): Table 1 : Formulas according to the present invention
  • Examples 7 to 11 Other non-limiting examples of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are according to Examples 7 to 11 (Ex. 7 to Ex. 11 ):
  • Example 12 - Comparative Formula Comparative formula C1 is shown in table 3 below:
  • the accelerated crystallization test is a stress test that combines cycles of freeze and thawing & ultrasound stress of samples submitted to 4 °C for a period of 1 week.
  • the objective of this test is to predict any crystallization of UV filter, and the measurement is by microscopic analysis, checking the presence of any crystals of UV filter.
  • the stability of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of Ex. 1 was studied by submitting it to a temperature of 4°C and combining cycles of freeze and thawing & ultrasound stress for 1 week. Using optical microscopy, it was possible to determine that there was no crystallization of UV filters after the test.
  • Example 13.2 Centrifuge Test Centrifuge test allows to verify how good suspension network of formulation is.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 2, Ex. 3 and Ex. 4 were submitted to centrifugation at 25 °C (room temperature) to predict phase separation in a centrifugation speed of 2300 rpm for a period of 1 hour. After centrifugation, the stability of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions was visually evaluated.
  • the accelerated stability test is an oven stability test in which it is evaluated if the formulation suffers modifications by temperature or action time.
  • the accelerated stability test was performed with tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Ex. 1 and Ex. 5, wherein the stability of the composition was visually evaluated after the samples were submitted to temperatures of 4°C, 25 °C (room temperature) and 45 °C for a period of 2 months in glass and tube packaging.
  • the results of the accelerated stability test are shown in Figures 3a-3d. It is possible to observe that, even at high temperatures, the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention did not show phase separation.
  • the high stress test combines mechanical stress and temperature stress by submitting the samples to centrifugation in high temperatures.
  • the objective of this test is to clarify if the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention present a stable instability index overtime, therefore, indicating that the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention have good stability, i.e., no sedimentation or if microscopic separation occurs in the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention.
  • Figures 4a and 4b The results of the high stress test are shown in Figures 4a and 4b.
  • Figure 4a shows the macroscopically result of the high stress test of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5, demonstrating no visible separation in the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention.
  • Figure 4b shows the data analysis of the high stress test (instability Index vs time) of tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention in view of the comparative sample C1 of Example 12.
  • the instability index of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention is constant, showing that there is no significant movement of particles or any separations during the test. It was concluded that there is a good stability over the time (low absolute value of the parameter) for the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention.
  • the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention according to Ex. 6 was applied on the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation (product applied with small circular movements without fingercot and application time between 33 and 42 seconds). Then, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention was applied to another site, and after a period of 40 minutes, during which the study subject remained in a bathtub, the irradiation was repeated. The sites were evaluated after a period of 16-24 hours.
  • the mean static SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 5 was 76.0, and after water immersion was 57.9.
  • composition of Ex. 6 has an average UVA SPF of 29.2.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions d'écran solaire cosmétiques teintées, comprenant (a) au moins un émollient ; (b) au moins un solvant ; (c) au moins un pigment ; (d) au moins une charge ; (e) au moins un filtre UV ; (f) un composé gras et un système polymère ; et (g) au moins un tensioactif.
PCT/BR2024/050325 2024-07-26 2024-07-26 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée Pending WO2026020214A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/BR2024/050325 WO2026020214A1 (fr) 2024-07-26 2024-07-26 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée
FR2409530A FR3164894A3 (fr) 2024-07-26 2024-09-09 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée

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PCT/BR2024/050325 WO2026020214A1 (fr) 2024-07-26 2024-07-26 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée et utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique teintée

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US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
US7470725B2 (en) 1996-11-26 2008-12-30 Cabot Corporation Organically modified aerogels, processes for their preparation by surface modification of the aqueous gel, without prior solvent exchange, and subsequent drying, and their use
WO2020172725A1 (fr) * 2019-02-28 2020-09-03 L'oreal Composition de produit de protection solaire, utilisation d'une composition de produit de protection solaire, utilisation de cire de carnauba liquide et procédé de fabrication d'une composition de produit de protection solaire
WO2021016680A1 (fr) 2019-07-26 2021-02-04 L'oreal Composition d'écran solaire anhydre comprenant un aérogel de silice
WO2022006408A1 (fr) * 2020-07-01 2022-01-06 L'oreal Écran solaire hybride à filtres organiques et minéraux
WO2022160019A1 (fr) * 2021-01-29 2022-08-04 L'oreal Composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée, utilisation d'une composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée et procédé de fabrication d'une composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée
US20240009108A1 (en) * 2020-07-02 2024-01-11 L'oreal Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition and process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition
WO2024124309A1 (fr) * 2022-12-12 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de produit de protection solaire et son utilisation
WO2024126253A1 (fr) * 2022-12-16 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane

Patent Citations (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
US7470725B2 (en) 1996-11-26 2008-12-30 Cabot Corporation Organically modified aerogels, processes for their preparation by surface modification of the aqueous gel, without prior solvent exchange, and subsequent drying, and their use
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
WO2020172725A1 (fr) * 2019-02-28 2020-09-03 L'oreal Composition de produit de protection solaire, utilisation d'une composition de produit de protection solaire, utilisation de cire de carnauba liquide et procédé de fabrication d'une composition de produit de protection solaire
WO2021016680A1 (fr) 2019-07-26 2021-02-04 L'oreal Composition d'écran solaire anhydre comprenant un aérogel de silice
WO2022006408A1 (fr) * 2020-07-01 2022-01-06 L'oreal Écran solaire hybride à filtres organiques et minéraux
US20240009108A1 (en) * 2020-07-02 2024-01-11 L'oreal Cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition and process of manufacturing a cosmetic composition
WO2022160019A1 (fr) * 2021-01-29 2022-08-04 L'oreal Composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée, utilisation d'une composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée et procédé de fabrication d'une composition de produit de protection solaire cosmétique teintée
WO2024124309A1 (fr) * 2022-12-12 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de produit de protection solaire et son utilisation
WO2024126253A1 (fr) * 2022-12-16 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane

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