CN102242501A - Production method of plush compound woolen fabric - Google Patents

Production method of plush compound woolen fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102242501A
CN102242501A CN 201110194303 CN201110194303A CN102242501A CN 102242501 A CN102242501 A CN 102242501A CN 201110194303 CN201110194303 CN 201110194303 CN 201110194303 A CN201110194303 A CN 201110194303A CN 102242501 A CN102242501 A CN 102242501A
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lousiness
fabric
production method
cashmere
compound
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CN102242501B (en
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史志敏
黄春洪
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Jiangsu Lugang Leye Technology Co ltd
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Zhangjiagang Shenlu Wool & Dying Co ltd
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  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a production method of a plush compound woolen fabric, which comprises the following steps of (1) cashmere silvering; (2) broken filament semi-fine spinning; (3) fine spinning; and (4) special trimming to obtain a finished product of the plush compound woolen fabric. By using the production method, the mixing spinning of plush long staple fibers is realized, the process is reasonable and compact, the yarn evenness is good, less neps and plume are generated; the obtained matte product has good surface luster through the special trimming, the fabric texture is light and thin and has good warmth retention property, so that the fabric is not only suitable for a suit fabric, but also is suitable for top-quality down coat fabric and casual fabric.

Description

The compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede
Technical field
The present invention relates to weaving face fabric, furtherly, relate to compound wool fabric.
Background technology
The natural fiber mixed textile fabric of lousiness cashmere at high proportion, it is frivolous warming to have quality, feel is fine and smooth gentle glutinous, gloss is soft naturally, and the soft performance such as comfortable of close skin, dress is the western-style clothes high-grade fabric of traditional classical, its weak point is wrinkling easily, be difficult for nursing, the scope of application is narrow, can not satisfy people to the diversified demand of lining.
For cashmere at high proportion and silk, wool-blend fabric because have in the production process that the silk grain is many, bar does inhomogeneously, long and short fiber can not blending, thread, the difficult problems such as dyeing of cashmere, the spinning enterprise of state's internal hair can't be to producing this high ratio blended fabric.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is: the production method of a kind of cashmere at high proportion with silk, wool blended compound wool fabric is provided.
In order to address the above problem, technical scheme of the present invention is: the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede, and production stage is:
1) cashmere system bar: cashmere looses and to dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: and lousiness looses and dyes → and hair → carding → also be in the same place with step 1) gained cashmere bar → and scalp acupuncture → two pins → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers are slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dries by the fire → wash and contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → light arrangement → pad pasting → finished product;
Described light arrangement is: auxiliary agent processing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → scald and steam.
The cashmere process of dying of loosing is selected reactive dye for wool for use in the described step 1): orchid receives plain CE(U.S. Huntsman Corporation), dye dosage 5 ± 0.1%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD(of Miller U.S. Huntsman Corporation), 2 ± 0.1g/L.
Described step 2) the lousiness process of dying of loosing is selected cotton reactive dye for use in: Remazol (German De Sida company), consumption 8 ± 0.1%;
Temperature control was 60 ± 1 ℃ when lousiness loose and to dye, and cold water cleans, and added the even DAM(U.S. of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent Huntsman Corporation during cleaning), consumption 1.5 ± 0.1g/L.
The weaving process of described step 3) selects 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, is used alternatingly.
Face finishing process in the described step 4): adjusting pressure roller pressure is 1 ± 0.2Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
The auxiliary agent processing procedure is in the described step 4): brightener Yi Wolun (EVO LON FM) 30 ± 0.5g/L and bleeding agent spy (the SERA WET CNR) 3 ± 0.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, back adding groove stirs, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjust fabric width main frame 164 ± 2cm, following machine 162 ± 2cm, overfeeding 5 ± 1%, overfeed roller 2 ± 1%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2 ± 0.2Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.
Beneficial effect of the present invention:
Figure 299247DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
The present invention has realized the blending of lousiness suede long and short fiber, and technological process is rationally compact, and cashmere system bar and half fine spinning united use have guaranteed that yarn evenness is even, and card nailing neps is few, and the bright and clean feather of sliver is few;
Figure 16668DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
Handle through special auxiliary agent and the bright finishing technique of boiling hot steaming repeatedly, make gained suede products lustrous surface good;
Reverse side carries out the pad pasting arrangement, and fabric texture is frivolous and warmth retention property good, is not only applicable to suiting, also can be used as high-grade feather dress fabric and leisure fabric simultaneously, and the product scope of application is wide.
The specific embodiment
Below by concrete enforcement the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1:
1) cashmere system bar: select reactive dye for wool for use: orchid receives plain CE, dye dosage 4.9%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD of Miller, 2.1g/L, carry out cashmere loose dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: select cotton reactive dye for use: Remazol, and consumption 8% carries out lousiness and looses and dye; Temperature control is 60 ± 1 ℃ during diffusing dying, cold water cleans, adding the even DAM of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent during cleaning, consumption 1.5g/L → and hair → carding → with step 1) gained cashmere bar and together → scalp acupuncture (the lousiness blended sliver is mixed combing with cashmere for the first time in 60/40 ratio) → two pins (with the further straight parallel combing of mixed strip) → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers are slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: with step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave, weave and select 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, be used alternatingly;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dry by the fire → washes contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → auxiliary agent handles → scalds steamings → decatizing → scald steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → pad pasting → finished product;
The face finishing process: adjusting pressure roller pressure is 0.8Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
Auxiliary agent processing procedure: brightener Yi Wolun 29.5g/L and the bleeding agent special 3.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, add groove after stirring, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjusts fabric width main frame 166cm, following machine 160cm, overfeeding 5%, overfeed roller 3%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2 ± 02Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.
Embodiment 2:
1) cashmere system bar: select reactive dye for wool for use: orchid receives plain CE, dye dosage 5.1%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD of Miller, 1.9g/L, carry out cashmere loose dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: select cotton reactive dye for use: Remazol, and consumption 7.9% carries out lousiness and looses and dye; 60 ± 1 ℃ of the temperature controls of loosing when dying, cold water cleans, and adds the even DAM of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent during cleaning, consumption 1.6g/L → and hair → carding → with step 1) gained cashmere bar drafting → scalp acupuncture → two pins → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: with step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave, weave and select 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, be used alternatingly;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dry by the fire → washes contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → auxiliary agent handles → scalds steamings → decatizing → scald steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → pad pasting → finished product;
The face finishing process: adjusting pressure roller pressure is 1.2Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
Auxiliary agent processing procedure: brightener Yi Wolun 30.5g/L and the bleeding agent special 2.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, add groove after stirring, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjusts fabric width main frame 164cm, following machine 162cm, overfeeding 6%, overfeed roller 1%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.

Claims (6)

1. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede, production stage is:
1) cashmere system bar: cashmere looses and to dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: and lousiness looses and dyes → and hair → carding → also be in the same place with step 1) gained cashmere bar → and scalp acupuncture → two pins → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers are slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dries by the fire → wash and contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → light arrangement → pad pasting → finished product;
Described light arrangement is: auxiliary agent processing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → scald and steam.
2. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the cashmere process of dying of loosing is selected reactive dye for wool for use in the described step 1): orchid receives plain CE, dye dosage 5 ± 0.1%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD of Miller, 2 ± 0.1g/L.
3. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the diffusing process of dying of lousiness is selected cotton reactive dye for use described step 2): Remazol, consumption 8 ± 0.1%;
Temperature control was 60 ± 1 ℃ when lousiness loose and to dye, and cold water cleans, and added the even DAM of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent during cleaning, consumption 1.5 ± 0.1g/L.
4. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the weaving process of described step 3), select 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, and be used alternatingly.
5. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: face finishing process in the described step 4): adjusting pressure roller pressure is 1 ± 0.2Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
6. the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the auxiliary agent processing procedure is in the described step 4): brightener Yi Wolun 30 ± 0.5g/L and the bleeding agent special 3 ± 0.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, back adding groove stirs, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjust fabric width main frame 164 ± 2cm, following machine 162 ± 2cm, overfeeding 5 ± 1%, overfeed roller 2 ± 1%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2 ± 0.2Kg, fabric enter groove two through whole latitude and soak two and roll, bake at 165 ± 2 ℃, fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service again.
CN2011101943038A 2011-07-12 2011-07-12 Production method of plush compound woolen fabric Active CN102242501B (en)

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Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103510248A (en) * 2012-06-15 2014-01-15 湖北黄石锦绣纺织有限公司 Method for manufacturing worsted gigging fabric
CN103637445A (en) * 2013-11-30 2014-03-19 江苏常朔针纺纱科技有限公司 Preparation process of down jacket fabric
CN103938353A (en) * 2012-09-17 2014-07-23 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Producing method of pure wool yarn knitting fabric with less dyeing steps
CN104088162A (en) * 2014-07-11 2014-10-08 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 Production method of yakwool-silk shell fabric
CN104264338A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 70% wool, 20% viscose and 10% nylon wool flannelette fabrics and production method thereof
CN104264356A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 80% spun silk, 10% cashmere wool and 10% wool flannelette fabrics and production method thereof
CN104358004A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-18 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Jacquard brushed fabric made of 50 percent of cotton, 30 percent of spun silk and 20 percent of wool and preparation method
CN104727162A (en) * 2013-12-21 2015-06-24 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 Glass yarn composite fabrics
CN104727161A (en) * 2013-12-18 2015-06-24 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 Spandex core spun yarn composite fabric
CN106739252A (en) * 2017-01-03 2017-05-31 利郎(中国)有限公司 A kind of new wool spinning complex printing fabric and its preparation technology

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CN1532310A (en) * 2003-03-18 2004-09-29 内蒙古鄂尔多斯羊绒集团有限责任公司 Spinning technology for fine cout cashmere yarn and blended cashmere yarn and its product processing technology
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CN1532310A (en) * 2003-03-18 2004-09-29 内蒙古鄂尔多斯羊绒集团有限责任公司 Spinning technology for fine cout cashmere yarn and blended cashmere yarn and its product processing technology
CN101012614A (en) * 2007-01-29 2007-08-08 杨毅方 Process for production of superbright glossy wool worsted face fabric

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Cited By (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103510248B (en) * 2012-06-15 2015-01-07 湖北黄石锦绣纺织有限公司 Method for manufacturing worsted gigging fabric
CN103510248A (en) * 2012-06-15 2014-01-15 湖北黄石锦绣纺织有限公司 Method for manufacturing worsted gigging fabric
CN103938353A (en) * 2012-09-17 2014-07-23 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Producing method of pure wool yarn knitting fabric with less dyeing steps
CN103938353B (en) * 2012-09-17 2016-06-01 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less
CN103637445A (en) * 2013-11-30 2014-03-19 江苏常朔针纺纱科技有限公司 Preparation process of down jacket fabric
CN104727161A (en) * 2013-12-18 2015-06-24 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 Spandex core spun yarn composite fabric
CN104727162A (en) * 2013-12-21 2015-06-24 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 Glass yarn composite fabrics
CN104088162B (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-05-11 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 A kind of production method of yakwool silk fabric
CN104088162A (en) * 2014-07-11 2014-10-08 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 Production method of yakwool-silk shell fabric
CN104264356A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 80% spun silk, 10% cashmere wool and 10% wool flannelette fabrics and production method thereof
CN104358004A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-18 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Jacquard brushed fabric made of 50 percent of cotton, 30 percent of spun silk and 20 percent of wool and preparation method
CN104264338A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 70% wool, 20% viscose and 10% nylon wool flannelette fabrics and production method thereof
CN104358004B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-04-06 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 50% cotton 30% spun silk 20% wool jacquard weave napping cloth and preparation method
CN104264338B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-05-04 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 70% wool 20% viscose glue 10% polyamide fibre napping cloth and preparation method
CN106739252A (en) * 2017-01-03 2017-05-31 利郎(中国)有限公司 A kind of new wool spinning complex printing fabric and its preparation technology

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Address after: 215600 Huayuan village, Tangqiao town, Zhangjiagang City, Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province

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Address before: 215600 Huayuan village, Tangqiao town, Zhangjiagang City, Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province

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Address after: 215600 Huayuan village, Tangqiao town, Zhangjiagang City, Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province

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Patentee before: ZHANGJIAGANG SHENLU WOOL & DYING Co.,Ltd.