The compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede
Technical field
The present invention relates to weaving face fabric, furtherly, relate to compound wool fabric.
Background technology
The natural fiber mixed textile fabric of lousiness cashmere at high proportion, it is frivolous warming to have quality, feel is fine and smooth gentle glutinous, gloss is soft naturally, and the soft performance such as comfortable of close skin, dress is the western-style clothes high-grade fabric of traditional classical, its weak point is wrinkling easily, be difficult for nursing, the scope of application is narrow, can not satisfy people to the diversified demand of lining.
For cashmere at high proportion and silk, wool-blend fabric because have in the production process that the silk grain is many, bar does inhomogeneously, long and short fiber can not blending, thread, the difficult problems such as dyeing of cashmere, the spinning enterprise of state's internal hair can't be to producing this high ratio blended fabric.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is: the production method of a kind of cashmere at high proportion with silk, wool blended compound wool fabric is provided.
In order to address the above problem, technical scheme of the present invention is: the compound wool fabric production method of lousiness suede, and production stage is:
1) cashmere system bar: cashmere looses and to dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: and lousiness looses and dyes → and hair → carding → also be in the same place with step 1) gained cashmere bar → and scalp acupuncture → two pins → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers are slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dries by the fire → wash and contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → light arrangement → pad pasting → finished product;
Described light arrangement is: auxiliary agent processing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → decatizing → scald and steam.
The cashmere process of dying of loosing is selected reactive dye for wool for use in the described step 1): orchid receives plain CE(U.S. Huntsman Corporation), dye dosage 5 ± 0.1%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD(of Miller U.S. Huntsman Corporation), 2 ± 0.1g/L.
Described step 2) the lousiness process of dying of loosing is selected cotton reactive dye for use in: Remazol (German De Sida company), consumption 8 ± 0.1%;
Temperature control was 60 ± 1 ℃ when lousiness loose and to dye, and cold water cleans, and added the even DAM(U.S. of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent Huntsman Corporation during cleaning), consumption 1.5 ± 0.1g/L.
The weaving process of described step 3) selects 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, is used alternatingly.
Face finishing process in the described step 4): adjusting pressure roller pressure is 1 ± 0.2Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
The auxiliary agent processing procedure is in the described step 4): brightener Yi Wolun (EVO LON FM) 30 ± 0.5g/L and bleeding agent spy (the SERA WET CNR) 3 ± 0.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, back adding groove stirs, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjust fabric width main frame 164 ± 2cm, following machine 162 ± 2cm, overfeeding 5 ± 1%, overfeed roller 2 ± 1%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2 ± 0.2Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.
Beneficial effect of the present invention:
The present invention has realized the blending of lousiness suede long and short fiber, and technological process is rationally compact, and cashmere system bar and half fine spinning united use have guaranteed that yarn evenness is even, and card nailing neps is few, and the bright and clean feather of sliver is few;
Handle through special auxiliary agent and the bright finishing technique of boiling hot steaming repeatedly, make gained suede products lustrous surface good;
Reverse side carries out the pad pasting arrangement, and fabric texture is frivolous and warmth retention property good, is not only applicable to suiting, also can be used as high-grade feather dress fabric and leisure fabric simultaneously, and the product scope of application is wide.
The specific embodiment
Below by concrete enforcement the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1:
1) cashmere system bar: select reactive dye for wool for use: orchid receives plain CE, dye dosage 4.9%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD of Miller, 2.1g/L, carry out cashmere loose dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: select cotton reactive dye for use: Remazol, and consumption 8% carries out lousiness and looses and dye; Temperature control is 60 ± 1 ℃ during diffusing dying, cold water cleans, adding the even DAM of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent during cleaning, consumption 1.5g/L → and hair → carding → with step 1) gained cashmere bar and together → scalp acupuncture (the lousiness blended sliver is mixed combing with cashmere for the first time in 60/40 ratio) → two pins (with the further straight parallel combing of mixed strip) → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers are slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: with step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave, weave and select 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, be used alternatingly;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dry by the fire → washes contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → auxiliary agent handles → scalds steamings → decatizing → scald steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → pad pasting → finished product;
The face finishing process: adjusting pressure roller pressure is 0.8Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
Auxiliary agent processing procedure: brightener Yi Wolun 29.5g/L and the bleeding agent special 3.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, add groove after stirring, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjusts fabric width main frame 166cm, following machine 160cm, overfeeding 5%, overfeed roller 3%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2 ± 02Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.
Embodiment 2:
1) cashmere system bar: select reactive dye for wool for use: orchid receives plain CE, dye dosage 5.1%; Dyeing assistant: the blue LTD of Miller, 1.9g/L, carry out cashmere loose dye → with hair → carding → become cashmere bar;
2) lousiness half is spinning: select cotton reactive dye for use: Remazol, and consumption 7.9% carries out lousiness and looses and dye; 60 ± 1 ℃ of the temperature controls of loosing when dying, cold water cleans, and adds the even DAM of the gorgeous dimension of cleaning agent during cleaning, consumption 1.6g/L → and hair → carding → with step 1) gained cashmere bar drafting → scalp acupuncture → two pins → recombing → neat and well spaced grilling → four rollers slightly last → rove;
3) spinning: with step 2) gained rove → spun yarn → lick-up → doubling → double twisting → warping → weave, weave and select 2/2 and 3/1 two kind of institutional framework for use, be used alternatingly;
4) special arrangement: step 3) gained fabric is singed → open washing boils → dry by the fire → washes contract → dry by the fire → napping → face finishing → auxiliary agent handles → scalds steamings → decatizing → scald steaming → decatizing → boiling hot steaming → pad pasting → finished product;
The face finishing process: adjusting pressure roller pressure is 1.2Kg, reduces the speed of a motor vehicle to 200 ± 0.5m/min, carries out napping earlier behind the light matte again and handles, and then, brush is cut positive and negative three times.
Auxiliary agent processing procedure: brightener Yi Wolun 30.5g/L and the bleeding agent special 2.5g/L that shows severity is mixed, add groove after stirring, shaping area is warming up to 165 ± 2 ℃, adjusts fabric width main frame 164cm, following machine 162cm, overfeeding 6%, overfeed roller 1%, the speed of a motor vehicle 11 ± 0.5m/min, padding machine pressure 2Kg, fabric enters groove two through whole latitude and soaks two and roll, and bakes at 165 ± 2 ℃ again, and fabric is 9 ± 0.5m/min in the shaping area speed of service.