CN102704105B - Textile made of high count and high alpine animal fiber blended yarns - Google Patents

Textile made of high count and high alpine animal fiber blended yarns Download PDF

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CN102704105B
CN102704105B CN201210169130.9A CN201210169130A CN102704105B CN 102704105 B CN102704105 B CN 102704105B CN 201210169130 A CN201210169130 A CN 201210169130A CN 102704105 B CN102704105 B CN 102704105B
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魏元龙
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Tongxiang Saiwai Mingzhu Clothing Co ltd
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SHANDONG LALELA WOOL SPINNING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开一种高支高寒动物纤维混纺纱线纺织品,其由高支高寒动物混纺纱线纺织而成,所述混纺纱线采用高支高寒动物纤维与化学纤维或纤维素纤维进行混纺,该高支高寒动物混纺纱线的生产工艺包括散毛染色、加油给湿、和毛、梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和倒绞,制成的混纺纱线具备低成本、环保、耐磨、保暖或舒适特性,具备优越的市场应用前景。The invention discloses a high-count alpine animal fiber blended yarn textile, which is spun from a high-count alpine animal blended yarn. The blended yarn is blended with high-count alpine animal fiber and chemical fiber or cellulose fiber. The production process of high-count alpine animal blended yarn includes dyeing of loose wool, oiling and wetting, kneading, carding, drawing, roving, spun yarn, winding, doubling, two-for-one twisting and reverse twisting. The blended yarn produced has Low cost, environmental protection, wear resistance, warmth or comfort, have excellent market application prospects.

Description

一种高支高寒动物纤维混纺纱线纺织品A high-count alpine animal fiber blended yarn textile

技术领域 technical field

本发明涉及一种混纺纱线纺织品及其生产工艺,更确切地说,是一种高支动物混纺纱线纺织品及其生产工艺。The invention relates to a blended yarn textile and its production process, more precisely, a high-count animal blended yarn textile and its production process.

背景技术 Background technique

随着经济的增长、科技的发展、生活水平的不断提高,人们对穿着上不仅仅要求美观时尚,而是更看重衣服材质的舒适和保健环保功效。With the growth of economy, the development of science and technology, and the continuous improvement of living standards, people not only require beautiful and fashionable clothes, but also pay more attention to the comfort and health care and environmental protection effects of clothing materials.

在纺织生产中,常规动物纤维纺织出的纱线及制品,具有一定的保暖性和舒适度,如羊绒,羊绒纤维以其柔、轻、软、滑、糯的特性,享有“纤维宝石”的盛名,但不可忽视的是,纯羊绒制品的原料成本高,一只绒山羊每年产毛绒50~80克,平均每5只山羊的绒才够做一件羊绒衫。In textile production, yarns and products spun from conventional animal fibers have a certain degree of warmth retention and comfort, such as cashmere. Cashmere fiber enjoys the title of "fiber gem" because of its softness, lightness, softness, slipperiness and waxy characteristics. Famous, but what cannot be ignored is that the raw material cost of pure cashmere products is high. A cashmere goat produces 50-80 grams of plush per year, and the cashmere of every five goats is enough to make a cashmere sweater on average.

牦牛绒作为高寒动物纤维之一,其手感滑糯、保暖性强、纤维强力高、耐腐蚀且成本较低,牦牛每年采毛一次,成年牦牛年产毛量为1.17~2.62千克;幼龄牛为1.30~1.35千克,其中粗毛和绒毛各占一半。牦牛绒很细,直径小于20微米,长度为3.4~4.5厘米,有不规则弯曲,鳞片呈环状紧密抱合,光泽柔和,弹性强。牦牛绒的开发及经济又环保。其绒毛是自然脱落的,牧民只要捡拾就可以。目前,我国每年可以回收4000吨牦牛绒原料。As one of the alpine animal fibers, yak velvet has smooth texture, strong warmth retention, high fiber strength, corrosion resistance and low cost. Yak wool is harvested once a year, and the annual wool production of adult yaks is 1.17-2.62 kg; young cattle The weight is 1.30-1.35 kg, of which coarse hair and fluff each account for half. Yak cashmere is very thin, with a diameter of less than 20 microns and a length of 3.4 to 4.5 cm. It is irregularly curved, and the scales are tightly entangled in a ring shape, with soft luster and strong elasticity. The development of yak wool is economical and environmentally friendly. Its fluff falls off naturally, and herdsmen only need to pick it up. At present, my country can recycle 4,000 tons of yak cashmere raw materials every year.

高支动物纤维是一种新型的纺织纤维,它包括高寒动物绒,如牦牛绒、驼绒、貂绒等。不同于传统的纺织纤维,它拥有自己的优势和特性,将其与锦纶、粘胶等化学纤维,或者天丝、麻纤维等纤维素纤维进行混纺后,手感、弹性及保暖性等各方面性能均优于高档羊绒,且成本大大低于羊绒,纱线具备了环保、耐磨、保暖、舒适的特性,对市场上一些昂贵的原材具有很强的替代作用,品质档次较高,市场前景十分看好。在与其他纤维混纺后得到的混纺纱线,市场需求量很大。High-count animal fiber is a new type of textile fiber, which includes alpine animal hair, such as yak hair, camel hair, mink hair and so on. Different from traditional textile fibers, it has its own advantages and characteristics. After blending it with chemical fibers such as nylon and viscose, or cellulose fibers such as tencel and hemp fiber, it has better performance in terms of hand feel, elasticity and warmth retention. Both are superior to high-grade cashmere, and the cost is much lower than cashmere. The yarn has the characteristics of environmental protection, wear resistance, warmth retention and comfort. It has a strong substitution effect on some expensive raw materials in the market. very promising. The blended yarn obtained after blending with other fibers is in great demand in the market.

制备一种低成本、环保、耐磨、保暖或舒适特性的混纺纱线,并利用该混纺纱线制备成纺织品必将取得较大的市场应用价值。The preparation of a low-cost, environmentally friendly, wear-resistant, warm-keeping or comfortable blended yarn, and the use of the blended yarn to prepare textiles will surely achieve greater market application value.

发明内容 Contents of the invention

本发明主要是解决现有技术所存在的技术问题,从而提供一种具备低成本、环保、耐磨、保暖或舒适特性的混纺纱线及其生产工艺。The present invention mainly solves the technical problems existing in the prior art, thereby providing a blended yarn with low cost, environmental protection, wear resistance, warmth retention or comfort characteristics and its production process.

本发明的上述技术问题主要是通过下述技术方案得以解决的:一种高支高寒动物纤维混纺纱线纺织品,其由高支动物混纺纱线纺织而成,所述高支动物混纺纱线采用高支动物纤维与化学纤维进行混纺或采用高支动物纤维与纤维素纤维进行混纺,所述高支动物纤维与化学纤维的比例或高支动物纤维与纤维素纤维的比例采用4∶1的重量比,主要步骤包括:散毛染色、加油给湿、和毛、梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和倒绞。所述高支动物纤维包括牦牛绒或/和驼绒或/和貂绒。The above-mentioned technical problems of the present invention are mainly solved by the following technical scheme: a high-count alpine animal fiber blended yarn textile, which is woven from high-count animal blended yarn, and the high-count animal blended yarn adopts Blending of high-count animal fibers and chemical fibers or blending of high-count animal fibers and cellulose fibers, the ratio of high-count animal fibers to chemical fibers or the ratio of high-count animal fibers to cellulose fibers is 4:1 by weight The main steps include: loose wool dyeing, oiling and wetting, kneading, combing, drawing, roving, spinning, winding, doubling, two-for-one twisting and reverse twisting. The high-count animal fibers include yak hair or/and camel hair or/and mink hair.

所述高支动物纤维在混纺之前首先采用预处理步骤,所述预处理步骤包括:浸泡、拉伸和定形;所述浸泡过程包括:将动物纤维放入浸泡液中浸泡30分钟,所述浸泡液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,醋酸1mol/L;所述定形过程包括:将拉伸后的动物纤维放入定形液中浸泡4分钟,然后取出烘干,所述定形液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,次氯酸钠5g/L。The high-count animal fiber first adopts a pretreatment step before blending, and the pretreatment step includes: soaking, stretching and setting; the soaking process includes: putting the animal fiber into the soaking liquid and soaking for 30 minutes, the soaking The components of the liquid are: NaCl200g/L, acetic acid 1mol/L; the setting process includes: putting the stretched animal fiber into the setting liquid and soaking it for 4 minutes, then taking it out and drying it, the components of the setting liquid are : NaCl 200g/L, sodium hypochlorite 5g/L.

加油给湿包括:按动物纤维重量的1.3%取和毛油,和毛油与水按重量比1∶8混合后以平铺直取方式均匀喷洒在高支动物纤维上,放置24h后上机;按化学纤维或纤维素纤维重量的0.6%取抗静电剂,抗静电剂与水按重量比1∶10混合后以平铺直取方式均匀喷洒在化学纤维或纤维素纤维上,放置24h后上机。Oiling and wetting includes: taking 1.3% of the weight of animal fibers and crude oil, mixing crude oil and water at a weight ratio of 1:8, and then spraying evenly on high-count animal fibers in a flat and straight way, and putting it on the machine after standing for 24 hours ; Take the antistatic agent at 0.6% of the weight of the chemical fiber or cellulose fiber, mix the antistatic agent with water at a weight ratio of 1:10, and then spray it evenly on the chemical fiber or cellulose fiber in a flat and straight way, and place it for 24 hours on board.

梳毛具体包括:上机回潮控制在16%以内。Combing specifically includes: control the moisture regain on the machine within 16%.

并条具体包括:降低前罗拉速度,使出条速度控制在120m/min左右,加装静电消除器装置。The drawing frame specifically includes: reducing the speed of the front roller to control the strip delivery speed at about 120m/min, and installing a static eliminator device.

粗纱包括:加强皮辊皮圈的维护保养,缩短皮辊酸处理和皮圈清洗周期,确保皮辊皮圈表面光洁滑爽;降低粗纱锭速,控制在500r/min左右,前罗拉速度180r/min左右;牵伸摇架保证加压一致;车间湿度严格控制在72%。The roving includes: strengthening the maintenance of the top roller apron, shortening the acid treatment of the top roller and apron cleaning cycle, ensuring the surface of the top roller apron is smooth and smooth; reducing the speed of the roving spindle, controlled at about 500r/min, and the speed of the front roller at 180r/min about min; the drafting cradle ensures consistent pressurization; the workshop humidity is strictly controlled at 72%.

细纱具体包括:锭速控制在7000r/min左右;纱捻系数为90左右;采用滑溜牵伸,使用低硬度高弹性胶辊,加强纱条控制。Specifically, the spun yarn includes: the spindle speed is controlled at about 7000r/min; the yarn twist coefficient is about 90; slippery drafting is adopted, and low-hardness and high-elastic rubber rollers are used to strengthen yarn control.

一种高支高寒动物纤维混纺纱线纺织品,其由高支动物混纺纱线纺织而成,所述高支动物混纺纱线采用上述生产工艺制备。A high-count alpine animal fiber blended yarn textile is woven from high-count animal blended yarns, and the high-count animal blended yarns are prepared by the above-mentioned production process.

本发明的高支动物混纺纱线织品具备了环保、耐磨、保暖或舒适的特性。The high-count animal blended yarn fabric of the present invention has the characteristics of environmental protection, wear resistance, warmth retention or comfort.

具体实施方式 Detailed ways

高支动物纤维混纺纱线,其最佳的生产流程为:原料出库、散毛染色、加油给湿、和毛、清花混毛、梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻、倒绞、包装入库。The best production process for high-count animal fiber blended yarn is: raw material delivery, loose wool dyeing, oiling and wetting, wool blending, cleaning and blending, carding, drawing, roving, spun yarn, winding, doubling, Two-for-one twisting, reverse twisting, packaging and storage.

以下对上述部分流程进行介绍,未介绍部分同常规生产流程。The following is an introduction to the above-mentioned part of the process, and the part not introduced is the same as the conventional production process.

一、高支动物纤维首先采用预处理步骤:预处理步骤包括:浸泡、拉伸和定形;浸泡过程包括:将动物纤维放入浸泡液中浸泡30分钟,浸泡液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,醋酸1mol/L;定形过程包括:将拉伸后的动物纤维放入定形液中浸泡4分钟,然后取出烘干,定形液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,次氯酸钠5g/L。1. The high-count animal fiber first adopts the pretreatment step: the pretreatment step includes: soaking, stretching and setting; the soaking process includes: soaking the animal fiber in the soaking solution for 30 minutes, and the composition of the soaking solution is: NaCl200g/L , acetic acid 1mol/L; the setting process includes: put the stretched animal fiber into the setting solution and soak for 4 minutes, then take it out and dry it. The components of the setting solution are: NaCl200g/L, sodium hypochlorite 5g/L.

上述预处理改变了单纤维粗细不一,后续拉伸纺织过程中经常出现的容易断裂等问题。通过上述预处理后,与未经与处理的动物纤维相比,拉伸之后纤维粗细更加均匀,整体长度增加了18%以上,细度变化了10%以上。The above-mentioned pretreatment has changed the problems such as the uneven thickness of the single fiber and the easy breakage that often occurs in the subsequent stretching and spinning process. After the above pretreatment, compared with untreated animal fibers, the fiber thickness after stretching is more uniform, the overall length increases by more than 18%, and the fineness changes by more than 10%.

二、加油给湿:Second, refueling and moistening:

高支动物纤维经过散毛染色后,纤维强力下降,纤维原有的油脂及抗静电剂被洗去。由于染色后存在浮色,使纤维表面发涩不易牵伸。为使纺纱加工顺利进行,可加入和毛油及抗静电剂,并进行给湿处理,使高支动物纤维和与之混纺的化纤保持合适的上机回潮率。After the high-count animal fiber is dyed with loose wool, the strength of the fiber decreases, and the original oil and antistatic agent of the fiber are washed away. Due to the floating color after dyeing, the surface of the fiber is astringent and difficult to draw. In order to make the spinning process go smoothly, wool oil and antistatic agent can be added, and wet treatment can be carried out, so that the high-count animal fiber and the chemical fiber blended with it can maintain a suitable moisture regain on the machine.

优选的加油给湿预处理方法:按动物纤维重量1.3%取和毛油,和毛油与水按重量比1∶8混合,混合后使用喷雾器以平铺直取方式均匀喷洒在高支动物纤维上,放置24h后上机。按化学纤维或纤维素纤维重量的0.6%取抗静电剂,抗静电剂与水按重量1∶10混合,按同样方法由喷雾器均匀喷洒在化学纤维或纤维素纤维上,放置24h后上机。The preferred method of adding oil to wet pretreatment: take 1.3% by animal fiber weight and crude oil, mix crude oil and water in a weight ratio of 1:8, use a sprayer after mixing to evenly spray on high-count animal fibers in a flat and straight way Put it on, put it on the machine after 24h. Take the antistatic agent at 0.6% of the weight of the chemical fiber or cellulose fiber, mix the antistatic agent with water at a ratio of 1:10 by weight, spray evenly on the chemical fiber or cellulose fiber from the sprayer in the same way, put it on the machine after standing for 24 hours.

三、梳毛3. Combing

梳毛工序通常存在的问题是:缠绕锡林、棉网飘头、易断头、绒毛损伤落毛比例大,所以梳毛工序的技术要点是,确定合理的上机回潮,上机工艺遵循减少纤维损伤、减少纤维间纠缠和搓揉,实现纤维顺利转移的原则。优选的处理方式为:上机回潮严格控制在16%范围内,回潮过大易缠绕锡林、道夫,过小易产生静电,纤维落毛增加。The problems that usually exist in the carding process are: winding cylinders, floating ends of the cotton net, easy broken ends, and a large proportion of hair loss due to fluff damage. Therefore, the technical points of the carding process are to determine a reasonable moisture regain on the machine and follow the machine process to reduce fiber damage. , Reduce the entanglement and kneading between fibers, and realize the principle of smooth fiber transfer. The preferred treatment method is: the moisture regain on the machine is strictly controlled within the range of 16%. If the moisture regain is too large, it will easily entangle the cylinder and doffer. If the moisture regain is too small, it will easily generate static electricity and increase fiber nodding.

四、并条Four, drawing

并条工序生产过程通常存在的问题是:混和毛条静电大,容易缠绕皮辊罗拉,断头多,生活难作,同时毛条抱合力差,容易产生意外牵伸,条干质量不易控制。优选的处理方式为:降低前罗拉速度,使出条速度控制在120m/min左右,加装静电消除器装置等措施。The problems that usually exist in the production process of the drawing process are: the static electricity of the mixed wool top is high, it is easy to wrap around the top roller, there are many end breaks, and life is difficult. The preferred treatment method is: reduce the speed of the front roller, control the delivery speed at about 120m/min, install a static eliminator device and other measures.

五、粗纱5. Roving

粗纱工序通常存在的问题是:绕皮辊,易出粗细节,生产效率低,为解决粗纱质量问题,优选的处理方式为:The problems that usually exist in the roving process are: around the top roller, it is easy to produce coarse details, and the production efficiency is low. In order to solve the problem of roving quality, the preferred treatment method is:

1)加强皮辊皮圈的维护保养,缩短皮辊酸处理和皮圈清洗周期,确保皮辊皮圈表面光洁滑爽。1) Strengthen the maintenance of the top roller aprons, shorten the acid treatment of the top rollers and the cleaning cycle of the aprons, and ensure that the surface of the top roller aprons is smooth and smooth.

2)粗纱捻度设置为偏大。2) The roving twist is set to be too large.

3)降低粗纱锭速,控制在500r/min左右,前罗拉速度180r/min左右。3) Reduce the speed of the roving spindle and control it at about 500r/min, and the speed of the front roller at about 180r/min.

4)牵伸摇架保证加压一致,压力设置为偏重。4) The drafting cradle ensures consistent pressurization, and the pressure is set to be biased.

5)车间湿度严格控制在72%范围内。5) The humidity in the workshop is strictly controlled within the range of 72%.

六、细纱Six, spun yarn

细纱工序通常存在的问题是:由于粗纱抱合力差,细纱断头高,消耗大,优选的处理方式为:The usual problems in the spinning process are: due to the poor cohesion of the roving, the broken ends of the spun yarn are high, and the consumption is large. The preferred treatment method is:

1)锭速控制在7000r/min左右。1) The spindle speed is controlled at about 7000r/min.

2)捻系数在保证产品风格要求基础上偏大掌握,本批纱捻系数为90。2) Twist coefficient should be mastered on the basis of ensuring product style requirements, and the twist coefficient of this batch of yarn is 90.

通过上述工技术制备的纱线细软,可以用来纺内衣,并可贴身穿着,舒适,透气性好,内衣的针织由原来的横机改为圆机制作,大大提高了内衣的优越质量。又因其成本较低,可以部分替代高档昂贵的羊绒。拓宽了消费者群体,满足了广大消费者对羊绒制品的追求。这种功能、环保、时尚、高档、价格适中的产品,对消费者来说更具吸引力,具有广阔的市场前景。The yarn prepared by the above-mentioned technology is soft and can be used to spin underwear, and can be worn next to the body, comfortable, and has good air permeability. The knitting of underwear has been changed from the original flat knitting machine to the circular knitting machine, which greatly improves the superior quality of the underwear. And because of its low cost, it can partially replace high-grade and expensive cashmere. Broaden the consumer groups, to meet the majority of consumers' pursuit of cashmere products. This kind of functional, environmentally friendly, fashionable, high-end and moderately priced products are more attractive to consumers and have broad market prospects.

以上所述,仅为本发明的具体实施方式,但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此,任何不经过创造性劳动想到的变化或替换,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。The above is only a specific implementation of the present invention, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any changes or replacements that do not come to mind through creative work shall be covered within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1.一种高支动物纤维混纺纱线纺织品,其由高支动物混纺纱线纺织而成,其特征在于:所述混纺纱线采用高支动物纤维与化学纤维进行混纺,所述高支动物纤维与化学纤维的比例采用4∶1的重量比,所述混纺纱线主要制备步骤包括:散毛染色、加油给湿、和毛、梳毛、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻和倒绞;所述高支动物纤维包括牦牛绒、驼绒或貂绒;所述加油给湿包括:按高支动物纤维重量的1.3%取和毛油,将和毛油与水按重量比1:8混合后均匀喷洒在逐层堆放的高支动物纤维的各层上,放置24h后垂直截取上机;按化学纤维重量的0.6%取抗静电剂,将抗静电剂与水按重量比1:10混合后均匀喷洒在逐层堆放的化学纤维的各层上,放置24h后垂直截取上机; 1. A high-count animal fiber blended yarn textile, which is spun by high-count animal blended yarn, is characterized in that: said blended yarn adopts high-count animal fiber and chemical fiber to carry out blending, and said high-count animal fiber The ratio of fiber to chemical fiber adopts a weight ratio of 4:1, and the main preparation steps of the blended yarn include: dyeing of loose wool, oiling and wetting, kneading, combing, drawing, roving, spun yarn, winding, doubling, Two-for-one twisting and reverse twisting; the high-count animal fibers include yak hair, camel hair or mink hair; the oiling and wetting include: taking and crude oil by 1.3% of the high-count animal fiber weight, and mixing crude oil and water by weight After mixing at a ratio of 1:8, it is evenly sprayed on each layer of high-count animal fibers stacked layer by layer. After standing for 24 hours, it is vertically intercepted and put on the machine; the antistatic agent is taken according to 0.6% of the weight of the chemical fiber, and the antistatic agent and water are mixed according to the weight After mixing at a ratio of 1:10, it is evenly sprayed on each layer of the chemical fiber stacked layer by layer, and after being placed for 24 hours, it is vertically intercepted and put on the machine; 所述高支动物纤维首先采用预处理步骤,所述预处理步骤包括:浸泡、拉伸和定形;所述浸泡过程包括:将高支动物纤维放入浸泡液中浸泡30分钟,所述浸泡液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,醋酸1mol/L;所述定形过程包括:将拉伸后的动物纤维放入定形液中浸泡4分钟,然后取出烘干,所述定形液的组分为:NaCl200g/L,次氯酸钠5g/L; The high-count animal fiber first adopts a pretreatment step, and the pretreatment step includes: soaking, stretching and setting; the soaking process includes: soaking the high-count animal fiber in a soaking solution for 30 minutes, and the soaking solution The components are: NaCl200g/L, acetic acid 1mol/L; the setting process includes: putting the stretched animal fiber into the setting solution and soaking for 4 minutes, then taking it out and drying, the components of the setting solution are: NaCl200g/L, sodium hypochlorite 5g/L; 所述梳毛包括:上机回潮率控制在16%以内;所述并条包括:降低前罗拉速度,使出条速度控制在120m/min,加装静电消除器装置;所述粗纱包括:加强皮辊皮圈的维护保养,缩短皮辊酸处理和皮圈清洗周期,确保皮辊皮圈表面光洁滑爽;降低粗纱锭速,控制在500r/min,前罗拉速度180r/min;牵伸摇架保证加压一致;车间湿度严格控制在72%范围内;所述细纱包括:锭速控制在7000r/min;纱捻系数为90;采用滑溜牵伸,使用低硬度高弹性胶辊,加强纱条控制。 The combing includes: the moisture regain of the upper machine is controlled within 16%; the drawing includes: reducing the speed of the front roller to control the sliver speed at 120m/min, and installing a static eliminator device; the roving includes: reinforcing leather The maintenance of the roller aprons shortens the acid treatment of the top rollers and the cleaning cycle of the aprons to ensure that the surface of the aprons of the top rollers is smooth and smooth; the speed of the roving spindle is reduced to 500r/min, and the speed of the front roller is 180r/min; the drafting cradle Ensure that the pressure is consistent; the humidity in the workshop is strictly controlled within the range of 72%; the spun yarn includes: the spindle speed is controlled at 7000r/min; control.
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