CN102995200B - Silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric and spinning method and production technology - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn. The silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn is silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton blended yarn, and the blended weight ratio of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton is 50:25:25. The blended yarn The linear density is 14.8tex. The invention also discloses a moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric using the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn, a spinning method of the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn and a production process of the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric. The silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention comprehensively adopts three kinds of fibers of silkworm chrysalis protein, polyester and cotton, and its proportion and linear density can give full play to the advantages of each fiber and weaken the existing defects of each. The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention not only satisfies the requirement of aesthetics, but also overcomes the deficiency of short silkworm chrysalis protein fibers, and has good performances such as moisture absorption, drape, anti-ultraviolet, comfortable, hygienic, etc., and the production process is formed at one time, saving costs and Energy, high added value.

Description

Silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn, moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric, spinning method and production process

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and in particular relates to a blended yarn, a moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric and a corresponding spinning method and production process.

Background technique

In the context of global shortage of oil resources, the production cost of synthetic fibers will gradually increase, and the growth of the quantity will be restricted; at the same time, with the improvement of living standards, people have higher expectations for the comfort and environmental protection of textiles and clothing. Requirements, natural functional textiles have gradually become the mainstream of the market. Advocating "green" has become a worldwide consumption trend, and more and more consumers tend to buy ecologically safe products that are harmless to human health and the environment. The holy mulberry chrysalis protein fiber produced by Yibin Huimei Fiber New Material Co., Ltd. is characterized by its smoothness like silk and softness like cashmere, and the 18 kinds of amino acids contained in silkworm chrysalis can moisturize the skin, resist ultraviolet rays, and be green and environmentally friendly. , home textiles and other industries. The various excellent properties of holy mulberry chrysalis protein fiber position its main scope of application as skin-contact products.

"Holy Mulberry" silkworm chrysalis protein fiber is a new type of biomass fiber made by blending silkworm chrysalis protein with natural cellulose by comprehensively utilizing polymer technology, chemical fiber spinning technology and bioengineering technology. In the process of processing, high-tech technology is adopted, so when the fiber is formed, protein can be enriched on the surface of the fiber to form a protein fiber with a skin-core structure. This invention of making a new type of all-natural biomass fiber with excellent animal protein + pure natural plant fiber has won the national invention patent (ZL03135631.3). A new era of history. It uses silkworm chrysalis protein and natural cellulose as raw materials, and its raw material, silkworm chrysalis, has strong renewability, will not pose a threat to earth resources, and meets the requirements of green textiles. What is even more valuable is that its raw materials were originally discarded after cocoon peeling and spinning. This feature is very valuable in today's resource protection and sustainable development.

The fabric made of silkworm chrysalis protein yarn meets the future trend of clothing development, namely: light and thin, elegant, comfortable, rich in texture, functional, green and environmentally friendly, and healthy. The development of fabrics is suitable for women's skirts, shirts and other summer close-fitting clothes. It aims to use the excellent performance and new technology of silkworm chrysalis protein staple fiber to develop new silkworm chrysalis protein fiber woven products with high technology, high grade and high added value. To increase the types of textiles to meet the needs of consumers. However, there is a lack of fabrics that take into account moisture absorption, drape, UV resistance, comfort, hygiene and other properties in the market.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a novel silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn.

The purpose of the present invention is also to provide a moisture-absorbing and draping anti-ultraviolet fabric with good performances such as moisture absorption, drape, anti-ultraviolet, comfort and sanitation.

The object of the present invention is also to provide a kind of spinning method of making above-mentioned silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn.

The object of the present invention is also to provide a production process for manufacturing the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric by using the spinning method.

In order to achieve the above object, the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention is a silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton blended yarn, the blended weight ratio of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton is 50:25:25, and the linear density of the blended yarn is 14.8 tex.

The fabric structure of the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric provided by the present invention is a plain jacquard, and the warp and weft yarns are all made of the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn; the ground weave of the plain jacquard is plain weave; the plain jacquard The jacquard grid of the grid adopts a through-hole structure; the plain jacquard grid has 60 warp yarns and 60 weft yarns in a weave cycle, and 2 through-hole jacquard grids are distributed; the warp density of the plain-weave jacquard grid is 433 / 10cm, weft density 236/10cm.

The spinning method of the present invention to manufacture the above-mentioned silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn comprises five processes successively. The first process is to open and clean silkworm chrysalis protein fibers, polyester fibers, and cotton fibers respectively, and the blended weight of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton The ratio is 50:25:25; the second process is carding, that is, the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, polyester fiber and cotton fiber are carded separately; the third process is drawing, first the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber and polyester fiber are respectively Pre-drawing, and then three-step mixing of silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, polyester fiber and cotton fiber without pre-drawing treatment; in the drawing process, the draw frame uses anti-wrapping rollers; the fourth step It is a roving process; the fifth is a spinning process, adopting siro spinning in the spinning process, and obtaining a blended weaving yarn with a linear density of 14.8tex after the spinning process.

The technological parameters of the spinning process using siro spinning are: front roller speed 178r/min, rear draft ratio 1.21, twist coefficient 390, roller gauge 18×31mm, bell mouth 3.5×2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, leather The roller is a medium-hard top roller, the traveler uses FO9/0, the speed of the machine is 180r/min, and the spindle speed is 14454r/min.

The production process of using the spinning method to manufacture the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric provided by the present invention is: weaving after the spinning is completed, and the weaving process sequentially includes a winding process, a warping process, a sizing process, a warping process and Weaving process; the size formula used in the sizing process is: add 37.5 kg of PVA-1799, 12.5 kg of CD-747, 62.5 kg of phosphate, 20 kg of QL-89 and 3 kg of SLMO- 02. Add water to make the slurry height in the mixing bucket reach 90 cm.

The process parameters used in the winding process are: S: +140%×1.5cm, L:+40%×20cm, T: -40%×20cm.

The present invention has following advantage:

1. The silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention has comprehensively adopted three kinds of fibers of silkworm chrysalis protein, polyester and cotton, and its proportioning and linear density can give full play to the advantages of each fiber, and weaken the defects that exist separately; Utilize the silkworm chrysalis protein of the present invention Fiber blends can produce moisture-absorbing drape and UV-resistant fabrics.

2. The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention adopts a plain jacquard weave in terms of weave coordination. The ground weave adopts relatively tight plain weave, which has good wear resistance, and the jacquard grid adopts through-hole weave, which produces a natural through-hole effect and strengthens the moisture absorption and sweat-wicking ability of the product. In the design, the two kinds of organizations are cleverly combined to make a beautiful fancy perforated fabric. Its appearance is novel and playful, which not only meets the requirements of aesthetics, but also meets the requirements of wear resistance and durability of fabrics in plain weave, and enhances the moisture permeability and air permeability of fabrics in perforated weave.

3. In view of the low strength of silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, Siro spinning technology is used in spinning, so that the spun yarn has a structure similar to ply yarn, which can improve the strength, improve the smoothness and strength of blended yarn, and improve the evenness. It has very obvious effects in reducing thick places, fine details and hairiness, and improving the weavability of yarns, which significantly improves the quality of yarns, better reflects the wearing performance of fabrics, and reduces the pressure of subsequent processes (In the prior art, measures are usually taken to reduce hairiness etc. when sizing). The present invention utilizes siro spinning technology to reduce hairiness, thick places, fine details, etc. during spinning, so that the yarn has high strength, good evenness, and smooth surface. Well, it also saves costs.

4. The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention has 60 warp yarns and 60 weft yarns in one weave cycle, and is distributed with 2 through-hole jacquard grids, so that the fabric is based on plain weave and through-hole weave, and the two weaves alternate Configured to make beautiful fancy openwork fabrics. Its plain weave satisfies the wear-resistant and durable requirements of the fabric, and the perforated weave enhances the moisture permeability and air permeability of the fabric.

5. The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention can achieve the comprehensive effect of light and soft texture, smooth and comfortable, moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking, anti-ultraviolet, and unique and beautiful appearance through tissue design and suitable production and processing process. The whole production process integrates practicability, functionality and decoration. At the same time, the process flow is short, and it can be produced on ordinary production equipment, with low processing cost and low energy consumption.

6. The draw frame uses anti-wrap top rollers during pre-drawing and drawing, which can increase the antistatic performance of the rubber rollers.

7. Silkworm chrysalis protein fiber and polyester fiber go through a pre-drawing process before blending, and then go through three blending processes (drawing process), which can improve the uniformity of the three fibers after blending.

8. The specific process parameters of the spinning process enable the Siro spinning technology to be well used in the spinning process.

The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric provided by the invention is a fabric with good moisture absorption, drape, anti-ultraviolet, comfort, hygiene and other properties, utilizes the excellent performance of silkworm chrysalis protein staple fiber, and overcomes the deficiency of silkworm chrysalis protein short fiber at the same time. The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention has a unique and beautiful appearance and strong washability; the production process is formed once, saving cost and energy, and has high added value.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is the upper machine diagram of the fabric of the hygroscopic drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention.

detailed description

The invention discloses a silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn. The silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn is a silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton blended yarn, and the blended weight ratio of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton is 50:25:25. The linear density of the spinning yarn is 14.8tex (tex specifically refers to the weight in grams of a 1000-meter-long yarn at a given moisture regain).

The invention also discloses the spinning method of the above-mentioned silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn. The method includes five processes in sequence. The ratio is 50:25:25;

The second process is carding, that is, carding the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, polyester fiber and cotton fiber respectively. When carding, the process principle of "low speed, light weight, less fiber damage, more recovery, and proper tension" is adopted.

The third process is drawing. First, the silkworm chrysalis protein fibers and polyester fibers are pre-drawn respectively, and then the pre-drawn silkworm chrysalis protein fibers, polyester fibers and cotton fibers without pre-drawing are subjected to three-way mixing. And; during pre-drawing and drawing, the draw frame uses anti-wrapping top rollers.

The fourth is the roving process. In the roving process, the drafting gauge in the rear area of the roving is appropriately enlarged to reduce the drafting force, reduce the number of thick places and improve the yarn evenness. On the premise that the spun yarn does not have a hard end, the twist of the roving should be relatively large, which can improve the internal quality of the roving and facilitate the drafting of the spun yarn. The draft ratio in the rear area of the roving should be appropriately small, and the draft ratio in the front area should be appropriately large to ensure the evenness of the roving.

The fifth step is the spinning process. Siro spinning is used in the spinning process. After the spinning process, a blended weaving yarn with a linear density of 14.8tex (ie silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn) is obtained. The technological parameters of the spun yarn process using siro spinning are: the speed of the front roller is 178r/min (rev/min), the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.21, the twist coefficient is 390, the roller gauge is 18×31mm, the bell mouth is 3.5×2.5mm, the set 3.0mm, the top roller is a medium hardness top roller, the traveler uses FO9/0, the speed of the machine is 180r/min, and the spindle speed is 14454r/min.

The technological principle of the spinning process is: appropriately increasing the drafting ratio in the rear area and reducing the nip gauge is beneficial to improving the evenness of the yarn; appropriately reducing the speed of the machine can reduce the end-break rate. Through heavy pressure and appropriately large roller gauge, the drafting force can be balanced to make it suitable for the holding force, so as to ensure the stable movement of the fiber during the drafting process, so as to achieve the purpose of improving the evenness level.

As shown in Figure 1, the present invention also discloses a moisture-absorbing and drape anti-ultraviolet fabric using the above-mentioned silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn. yarn. The ground weave of the plain weave jacquard grid adopts plain weave. The jacquard grid of the plain ground jacquard grid adopts a through-hole structure. The warp yarn density of the plain weave jacquard lattice is 433 yarns/10cm, and the weft yarn density is 236 yarns/10cm. The plain ground jacquard grid has 60 warp yarns and 60 weft yarns in one weave cycle, and is distributed with 2 through-hole jacquard grids. The quality per square meter of the hygroscopic drape anti-ultraviolet fabric fabric of the present invention is 123.3 grams.

The invention also discloses a production process of the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric, which includes a spinning method and a weaving process according to the production sequence.

The spinning method is the same as that of the above-mentioned silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn, and will not be repeated here.

After the spinning is completed, weaving is carried out, and the weaving process includes a winding process, a warping process, a sizing process, a drawing-in process and a weaving process in sequence.

The process parameters used in the winding process are: S (short thick place): +140%×1.5cm, L (long thick place): +40%×20cm, T (detail): -40%×20cm.

Precautions for winding process: adopt small tension and slow speed process. Appropriately reduce the speed of the machine, reduce the tension of the yarn, and prevent the deterioration of the evenness and the increase of neps. It is required that the winding channel be clean, use an air splicer, and always pay attention to the quality of the joint.

Precautions in the warping process: the tension in the warping process should be appropriately small, and the arc tension configuration should be adopted. The warping speed should not be too high, the winding density of the warp beam or weaving beam should not be too high, the winding should be smooth, and the softness and hardness should be consistent. Avoid excessive yarn elongation, affecting its elasticity and strength.

The size formula adopted in the sizing process is:

Add 37.5 kg of PVA-1799 (ie polyvinyl alcohol), 12.5 kg of CD-747 (ie starch), 62.5 kg of phosphate (ie modified starch), 20 kg of QL-89 (ie liquid acrylic acid) and 3 kg of SLMO-02 (wax sheet), add water to make the slurry height in the mixing bucket reach 90 cm.

The drawing-in process adopts 12 pages of heald frames, and the first 6 pages and the last 6 pages are threaded in sections, that is, (123456)×5+(789101112)×5.

Precautions for weaving process: Weaving with small opening, lower backrest, and larger upper machine tension.

The performance test and analysis of the above-mentioned moisture-absorbing and draping anti-ultraviolet fabrics (in accordance with the corresponding national standards and industry standards for experiments), and the use of PTT fabrics of similar specifications as a comparison. The specifications and serial numbers of the tested fabrics are shown in Table 1.

Table 1

Note: PTT is elastic polyester.

The instruments and tools required for the measurement include: fabric thickness meter, fabric air permeability meter, moisture permeability test box, capillary effect tester, fabric drape tester and fabric ultraviolet protection meter (all are conventional experimental devices in this field).

The experimental steps are as follows:

1) Air permeability test: The test method of fabric air permeability is in accordance with the national standard GB/T5453-1997 "Determination of air permeability of textile fabrics". Choose 10 different parts of each sample for measurement, the fabric test area is 20cm2, the pressure drop on both sides of the fabric is 100Pa (Pascal), measure the air flow vertically passing through the given area of the sample within a certain period of time, and calculate the air permeability. The air permeability test results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Unit: mm/s

2) Moisture permeability test: The test method of fabric moisture permeability is in accordance with the national standard GB/T12704.1-2009 "Test Method for Moisture Permeability of Textile Fabrics Part 1: Moisture Absorption Method". Using the moisture absorption method of the moisture-permeable cup, the moisture-permeable cup containing the moisture-absorbing agent and sealed with the fabric sample is placed in a closed environment with specified temperature and humidity. Changes to calculate moisture permeability. Three pieces were cut from each sample at different positions, and then the average value was calculated. The moisture permeability test results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3 Unit: g/m2 h

Note: WVT—water vapor transmission rate, in grams per square meter hour [g/(m ² ·h)]; G ₁ —weight/g of the assembly before moisture absorption; G ₂ —weight/g of the assembly after moisture absorption.

3) Moisture conductivity test: The test method of fabric moisture permeability is in accordance with the industry standard FZ/T01071-2008 "Test Method for Capillary Effect of Textiles". The cutting of the sample is to cut three samples longitudinally and transversely at one-tenth of the width from the edge of the cloth, and there should be no serious defects on the sample. The length of the sample is 30cm, and the width is not less than 2.5cm. The results of the moisture permeability test of the fabric are shown in Table 4.

Table 4 Unit: cm

4) Drapability test: The test method of fabric drape is in accordance with the industry standard FZ/T01345-1996 "Test Method for Drapability of Textile Fabrics". Take a circular sample with a diameter of 240mm for each piece of fabric, and open a small hole with a diameter of 4mm in the center of the sample. Test once in the warp direction, weft direction of the sample, and two directions that form an angle of 45° with the warp direction and weft direction. Place the circular sample between the circular clamping discs, and irradiate it with parallel light perpendicular to the horizontal direction to obtain the projected picture of the sample. The percentage of the ratio of the projected area of the drooping part of the sample to the original area is calculated by tracing the picture, that is, is the suspension coefficient. The results of the drapability test are shown in Table 5.

table 5

5) UV test of fabric: The test method of fabric drapability is in accordance with the national standard GB/T18830-2009 "Assessment of UV protection performance of textiles". An important parameter to evaluate the UV protection of fabrics is the UV radiation protection factor UPF, which is used to measure the harmfulness of UV radiation to the human body. The UPF value refers to the difference between the time required for ultraviolet radiation to reach a critical dose of a certain damage (such as erythema, eye damage, or even carcinogenicity) and the time to reach the same level of damage when a protective product is not used. Compare. Measured according to this standard, when the UPF of the sample is > 40 and the UPA is < 5%, it can be called "ultraviolet protection product". The test results of the UV protection performance of the fabric are shown in Table 6.

Table 6

The moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric of the present invention has been tested for air permeability, moisture permeability, drape and anti-ultraviolet according to the above corresponding standards. Experimental results show that the hygroscopicity, drape and anti-ultraviolet fabrics of the present invention have good hygroscopicity, air permeability, moisture permeability and anti-ultraviolet properties, all of which reach or exceed the standard requirements.

Claims (4)

1. Hygroscopic drape anti-ultraviolet fabric, characterized in that: silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn is used, and the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn is silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton blended yarn, and the blended weight ratio of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton is 50: 25:25, the linear density of the blended yarn is 14.8tex; The fabric structure of the fabric is a plain weave jacquard grid, and the warp and weft yarns are all made of the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn; the ground weave of the plain weave jacquard grid is a plain weave; The jacquard grid of the plain ground jacquard grid adopts a through-hole structure; The plain weave jacquard grid has 60 warp yarns and 60 weft yarns in one weave loop, and is distributed with 2 through-hole jacquard grids; The warp yarn density of the plain weave jacquard lattice is 433 yarns/10cm, and the weft yarn density is 236 yarns/10cm. 2. the spinning method of silkworm chrysalis protein fiber blended yarn described in claim 1 is characterized in that: comprise five processes successively, the first procedure is to carry out opening and cleaning cotton silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, polyester fiber, cotton fiber respectively, The blend weight ratio of silkworm chrysalis/polyester/cotton is 50:25:25; The second process is carding, that is, carding the silkworm chrysalis protein fiber, polyester fiber and cotton fiber respectively; The third process is drawing. First, the silkworm chrysalis protein fibers and polyester fibers are pre-drawn respectively, and then the pre-drawn silkworm chrysalis protein fibers, polyester fibers and cotton fibers without pre-drawing are subjected to three-way mixing. And; in the drawing process, the draw frame uses anti-wrapping rollers; The fourth is the roving process; The fifth step is the spinning process, in which siro spinning is used, and after the spinning process, a blended weaving yarn with a linear density of 14.8tex is obtained; The technological parameters of the spinning process using siro spinning are: front roller speed 178r/min, rear draft ratio 1.21, twist coefficient 390, roller gauge 18×31mm, bell mouth 3.5×2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, leather The roller is a medium-hard top roller, the traveler uses FO9/0, the speed of the machine is 180r/min, and the spindle speed is 14454r/min. 3. use the spinning method described in claim 2 to manufacture the production process of the moisture-absorbing drape anti-ultraviolet fabric described in claim 1, which is characterized in that: weaving is carried out after the spinning is completed, and the weaving process comprises a winding process, a warping process, Sizing process, drawing-in process and weaving process; The size formula adopted in the sizing process is: Add 37.5 kg of PVA-1799, 12.5 kg of CD-747, 62.5 kg of phosphate ester, 20 kg of QL-89 and 3 kg of SLMO-02 into a mixing tank with a diameter of 1 meter, and add water to make the slurry height in the mixing tank reach 90 cm. 4. The production process according to claim 3, wherein the process parameters used in the winding process are: S: +140%×1.5cm, L:+40%×20cm, T: -40%×20cm.