CN109652995A - 一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺 - Google Patents
一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提出了一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，依次包括以下步骤：基布织造、溢流松式前处理、无张力定型、平板筛网印花、固色定型、双点点胶、烘培处理、卷绕送检处理，产品经纬向采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维，经平纹加密组织结构织造成基布，基布经4级拒水防劈裂处理，经定型后按面料花型给予印花处理，采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层而成；产品手感好，粘合力强，耐干、水洗，不渗胶。该产品与面料压烫即成一体，服装无需加里子布，既减少服装制作工序，又美观耐用，加上其特强的粘合牢度，正好配合现今时装花样、款式及用料多变的潮流；产品既具有粘合功能又可替代里子绸的双重功能作用，迎合了市场的需求。
Description
【技术领域】
本发明涉及面料的领域，特别是一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺。
【背景技术】
随意、舒适、环保、自然是21世纪对服装提出的新理念，伴随着全球变暖的温室效应。服装多采用较轻柔的薄型面料和柔软、透气性好的内衬，加以先进的生产工艺，使人们穿着更加自然、更便于活动。但轻薄型衬布的纱线组织结构较稀疏，容易引起勾丝的情况发生，且降低了衬布的质感和柔韧性，因此提出一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺。
【发明内容】
本发明的目的就是解决现有技术中的问题，提出一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，此工艺生产的产品手感好，粘合力强，耐干、水洗不渗胶，产品与面料压烫即成一体，服装无需加里子布，既减少服装制作工序，又美观耐用。
为实现上述目的，本发明提出了一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，包括以下步骤:
a：基布织造：基布采用经、纬纱经平纹加密组织结构织造而成；
b：溢流松式前处理：对基布进行预烘预缩处理，然后在高温高压溢流机的控制下对基布进行松弛预缩定型处理，温度为65～75℃，环境湿度为45～55％；
c：无张力定型：采用松驰式预缩定型的方式对基布进行烘燥定型；
d：平板筛网印花：将基布送至印花机进行印花整理；
e：固色定型：印花后经无张力烘燥固色，并水洗后整理成型；
f：双点点胶：采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层形成热熔胶层，冷却后将基布送入烘房；
g:烘培处理：将基布经过三个分段式烘房完成烘干，第一烘房的温度为90～130℃，烘干时间为5～7分钟，第二烘房的温度为130～170℃，烘干时间为4～5分钟，第三烘房的温度为170～180℃，烘干时间为2～3分钟；
h:卷绕送检处理：将基布经切边计长后进行卷绕，对卷绕后的布卷进行人工终检，并将质量、外观均合格的产品进行打包为成品。
作为优选，所述步骤a中经、纬纱均采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维。
作为优选，所述步骤c无张力定型之前对基布进行4级拒水防劈裂处理。
作为优选，所述步骤f中圆网的目数为CP40，圆网的孔径为0.26-0.29mm，圆网的厚度为0.16-0.18mm。
作为优选，所述步骤f中采用高目超细微点静电涂层技术进行双点涂层。
作为优选，所述步骤f中的PA胶在生产过程中加入抗静电剂。
作为优选，所述步骤d中基布、导布在同速度、同张力的条件下进入印花系统。
本发明的有益效果：本发明提出一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，产品经纬向采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维，经平纹加密组织结构织造成基布，基布经4级拒水防劈裂处理，经定型后按面料花型给予印花处理，采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层而成；产品手感好，粘合力强，耐干、水洗，不渗胶。该产品与面料压烫即成一体，服装无需加里子布，既减少服装制作工序，又美观耐用，加上其特强的粘合牢度，正好配合现今时装花样、款式及用料多变的潮流；产品既具有粘合功能又可替代里子绸的双重功能作用，迎合了市场的需求。
本发明的特征及优点将通过实施例进行详细说明。
【具体实施方式】
本发明一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，包括以下步骤:
a：基布织造：基布经、纬纱采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维经平纹加密组织结构织造而成；
b：溢流松式前处理：对基布进行预烘预缩处理，然后在高温高压溢流机的控制下对基布进行松弛预缩定型处理，温度为65～75℃，环境湿度为45～55％；
c：无张力定型：采用松驰式预缩定型的方式对基布进行烘燥定型；
d：平板筛网印花：基布、导布在同速度、同张力的条件下进入印花系统进行印花整理；
e：固色定型：印花后经无张力烘燥固色，并水洗后整理成型；
f：双点点胶：采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层形成热熔胶层，采用高目超细微点静电涂层技术进行双点涂层，冷却后将基布送入烘房；
g:烘培处理：将基布经过三个分段式烘房完成烘干，第一烘房的温度为90～130℃，烘干时间为5～7分钟，第二烘房的温度为130～170℃，烘干时间为4～5分钟，第三烘房的温度为170～180℃，烘干时间为2～3分钟；
h:卷绕送检处理：将基布经切边计长后进行卷绕，对卷绕后的布卷进行人工终检，并将质量、外观均合格的产品进行打包为成品。
所述步骤c无张力定型之前对基布进行4级拒水防劈裂处理。所述步骤f中圆网的目数为CP40，圆网的孔径为0.26-0.29mm，圆网的厚度为0.16-0.18mm。所述步骤f中的PA胶在生产过程中加入抗静电剂。
技术性能指标：
1、剥离强度：洗涤前≥22N/5×10cm洗涤后≥20N/5×10cm；
2、干热尺寸变化：经向-1.5～+0.3纬向-1.0～+0.4；
3、水洗尺寸变化：经向-1.0～+0.4纬向-1.0～+0.4；
4、干水洗外观变化≥4级；
5、释放游离甲醛：≤75ppm。
本发明一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，具有以下优点：
1、产品经纬向均采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维，经平纹加密组织结构织造而成。再经4级拒水防劈裂处理，经定型后按面料花型给予印花处理。
产品经纬向采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维，经平纹加密组织结构织造成基布，织物手感滑爽、悬垂性好、挺而不皱。由于织物稀薄易勾丝，通过对高温高压溢流机上运用计算机对温度、时间、喷嘴压力进行精确控制，使布面平整、光洁、无勾丝。采用松驰式预缩定型技术适用于该类超薄型微纤维弹力织物的烘燥定型，可使纤维毛孔更加紧密，从而产生膨松光洁的外观。
然后基布被送至平板筛网印花机进行印花整理，我们通过合理引进穿布路线，借助导布辊筒和张力调节装置与织物的摩擦，适当调节进入印花辊筒之前的松紧，使基布与导布得到均匀一致的伸长。在同速度、同张力的条件下进入印花系统，即可取得设定的花型，经固色水洗后即可成型。变化的底布和新的工艺给衬布带来了更丰富的表现力，轻薄的基布印上印上多彩的图案，结合色彩渐变和对比，亮丽又带有欢快愉悦的感觉；又搭配渗化效果的印花，朦胧的色彩感，带有真丝般的飘逸，光洁的底布的印花给衬布带来赏心悦目的新感觉。
2、采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层而成，开发高目超细微点静电植入技术，这样单位颗粒胶粉的体积更小,重量更轻；与面料压烫后既不影响面料原来的手感，又体现了衬布的支撑作用。
由于织物轻薄，在服装加工的压烫过程中极易产生渗料现象，影响服装的外观、手感和压烫机的使用寿命。采用耐水洗PA胶运用高目微点涂层的方法不仅能解决手感问题，同时也能解决部分渗料的问题，通过对基布选型、整理、涂层加工工艺和配方的调整以及对原料间亲和性的研究，选用高目静电涂层技术，胶点之间比较细密，与面料压烫后既不影响面料原来的手感，又体现了衬布的支撑作用；既耐干洗又耐水洗，实现了衬布似有若无，与面料浑然一体的透明质感。
上述实施例是对本发明的说明，不是对本发明的限定，任何对本发明简单变换后的方案均属于本发明的保护范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：包括以下步骤:
a：基布织造：基布采用经、纬纱经平纹加密组织结构织造而成；
b：溢流松式前处理：对基布进行预烘预缩处理，然后在高温高压溢流机的控制下对基布进行松弛预缩定型处理，温度为65～75℃，环境湿度为45～55％；
c：无张力定型：采用松驰式预缩定型的方式对基布进行烘燥定型；
d：平板筛网印花：将基布送至印花机进行印花整理；
e：固色定型：印花后经无张力烘燥固色，并水洗后整理成型；
f：双点点胶：采用耐水洗PA胶进行双点涂层形成热熔胶层，冷却后将基布送入烘房；
g:烘培处理：将基布经过三个分段式烘房完成烘干，第一烘房的温度为90～130℃，烘干时间为5～7分钟，第二烘房的温度为130～170℃，烘干时间为4～5分钟，第三烘房的温度为170～180℃，烘干时间为2～3分钟；
h:卷绕送检处理：将基布经切边计长后进行卷绕，对卷绕后的布卷进行人工终检，并将质量、外观均合格的产品进行打包为成品。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤a中经、纬纱均采用50D/48F高弹丝纤维。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤c无张力定型之前对基布进行4级拒水防劈裂处理。
4.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤f中圆网的目数为CP40，圆网的孔径为0.26-0.29mm，圆网的厚度为0.16-0.18mm。
5.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤f中采用高目超细微点静电涂层技术进行双点涂层。
6.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤f中的PA胶在生产过程中加入抗静电剂。
7.如权利要求1所述的一种耐洗印花里布衬的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤d中基布、导布在同速度、同张力的条件下进入印花系统。
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| CN113930877A (zh) * | 2020-06-29 | 2022-01-14 | 南通衣依衬布有限公司 | 一种低温粘合梭织弹力衬衫衬及其制备方法 |
| IT202100022343A1 (it) * | 2021-08-25 | 2023-02-25 | Maurizio Fanelli | Metodo per il fissaggio di stampe su materiali per abbigliamento ed indumento prodotto con detto metodo |
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| IT202100022343A1 (it) * | 2021-08-25 | 2023-02-25 | Maurizio Fanelli | Metodo per il fissaggio di stampe su materiali per abbigliamento ed indumento prodotto con detto metodo |
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