CN111663234A - 一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法 - Google Patents
一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
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- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/46—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,属于纺织技术领域。选用细支棉纤维纱线,采用双罗纹交织结构;在染色加工时增加酶洗工艺以减少布面毛羽,并使之光洁;增加预缩工序,达到仿丝光效果的同时改善面料水洗稳定性;预缩工序为:将面料先经过橡胶毯,再经过呢毯。本发明具有仿丝光处理织物特点:色泽明亮、手感细腻滑爽,布面平整、光洁度好,同时较普通棉针织面料具有物理性能稳定、悬垂性较好等优点。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织技术领域,涉及一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法。
背景技术
棉纤维是纺织工业的重要原料。与化学纤维相比,由棉纤维制成的织物柔软舒适性好、吸湿透气性强、保暖性佳、不存在静电等不良反应。且针织面料质柔软,较机织面料具有优良的弹性与延伸性,可满足人体各部位的弯曲、伸展、穿着舒适,无束缚感,符合现代人对服装时尚自由、运动休闲、舒适合体的需求,选用天然纤维制作面料非常符合当下绿色环保、可持续发展的主题。
丝光处理是对棉织物的一种传统加工工艺,将棉织物经高浓度烧碱溶液处理,使纤维表面变得光滑,达到增加织物光泽的目的。经丝光处理的棉针织面料较普通棉针织面料更轻薄、柔软,布面平整、光洁度好,色泽明亮、手感细腻滑爽、物理性能稳定、悬垂性较好。然而丝光处理需要专门的设备和条件,存在成本高、且会造成污染的问题,不符合当下可持续发展的环保主题。
发明内容
本发明的目的是针对现有的技术存在的上述问题,提供一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,本发明所要解决的技术问题是如何使棉针织面料在不经过丝光处理工序的情况下具备丝光处理织物的特性:色泽明亮,有真丝般的外观、手感细腻滑爽,布面平整、光洁度好。
本发明的目的可通过下列技术方案来实现:一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,选用细支棉纤维纱线,采用双罗纹交织结构;在染色加工时增加酶洗工艺以减少布面毛羽,并使之光洁;增加预缩工序,达到仿丝光效果的同时改善面料水洗稳定性;预缩工序为:将面料先经过橡胶毯,再经过呢毯。
具体而言,所述细支棉纤维纱线为含30%长绒棉55S精梳棉。长绒棉是一种单纤长度较长的天然纤维素纤维,也是纺织细旦高支纱的重要纤维材料。由高支数棉纱线制成的织物不仅轻薄、柔软、滑爽、细腻、而且表面光洁好,此特性非常符合仿丝光面料的开发。
双罗纹交织结构纱线交织使得面料紧实、挺括,可满足人体各部位的弯曲、伸展、穿着舒适,无束缚感;
所述双罗纹交织结构通过双面开幅机进行编织,所述双面开幅机机号为28G。
纱线原料:55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,纺纱方式为紧密纺;
织造工艺:选用机型为34英寸28针的双面开幅机编织成双罗纹组织;全接55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,线长为11.5cm/50针。
染色工艺:染色过程包括前处理、染棉和后处理,前处理配方增加酶洗工艺减少布面毛羽,以使面料光洁;
前处理助剂配方:
浴中抗皱剂BC固 2g/L
双氧水稳定剂BW 1g/L
精练剂COLhc 0.5g/L
合纤用精炼剂WX-240 1g/L
片碱 1.4g/L
双氧水 7g/L
冰醋酸 0.8g/L
过氧化氢酶HT512 0.4g/L
染棉助剂配方:
螯合分散剂G600c 2.5g/L
浴中抗皱剂BC固 3.5g/L
生物抛光酶Collusoft Combi 1%
元明粉 50g/L
纯碱 15g/L
后处理助剂配方:
冰醋酸 1.8g/L
净洗剂Sc 2g/L
冰醋酸 0.3g/L
工艺流程:
前处理工艺流程:常温下先加入以上所述前处理配方,以5℃/min的速率升温到98℃,保温45min后以2℃/min的速率降温至78℃排水,然后水洗2次,冰醋酸洗1次,过氧化氢酶洗1次;
染棉工艺流程:40℃加入以上所述棉染色助剂和染料,以1℃/min的速率升温到60℃,加入纯碱后保温60min,排水;且一定要加酶洗助剂,达到减少面料表面毛羽,增加光洁度的目的。
后处理工艺流程:棉染色完成后用清水、冰醋酸、净洗剂Sc清洗,最后加软油精。
其中,染色机型为日阪溢流染色机,主泵转速55、提布轮速度60、喷嘴位置90、60S/圈、间隙4。
最终定型工艺:染色完成后振烘,烘干温度130℃,烘干后加柔软剂最终定型,定型温度130℃,车速15-20m/min。
预缩定型工艺:蒸汽28%,超喂8%,车速10m/min,橡胶毯温度130℃,呢毯温度130℃;且一定要先经过橡胶毯再经过呢毯,达到仿丝光的目的。
经过前处理、染色、最终定型、预缩定型后做成全棉棉毛面料,成品有效门幅为148cm+5cm,平方米克重为185g+10g,缩水率:纵-1.9%/横-4.6%,面料手感细腻滑爽、色泽明亮,具有丝光整理效果、水洗稳定性、悬垂性好。
本发明仿丝光处理的棉针织面料较普通棉针织面料更轻薄、柔软,布面平整、光洁度好,色泽明亮、手感细腻滑爽,物理性能稳定、悬垂性较好。该面料不需经过丝光处理工艺,也能使面料达到真丝般的外观、且水洗稳定性良好,降低成本,同时也可减少丝光处理废水排放,非常符合当下绿色环保、可持续发展的主题。
附图说明
图1是双罗纹交织结构的编织示意图。
图2是本方法中前处理的工艺曲线图。
具体实施方式
以下是本发明的具体实施例并结合附图,对本发明的技术方案作进一步的描述,但本发明并不限于这些实施例。
纱线原料:55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,纺纱方式为紧密纺;
织造工艺:选用机型为34英寸28针的双面开幅机编织成双罗纹组织;编织图如附图1所示,全接55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,线长为11.5cm/50针。
染色工艺:染色过程包括前处理、染棉和后处理,前处理配方增加酶洗工艺减少布面毛羽,以使面料光洁;
前处理助剂配方:
浴中抗皱剂BC固 2g/L
双氧水稳定剂BW 1g/L
精练剂COLhc 0.5g/L
合纤用精炼剂WX-240 1g/L
片碱 1.4g/L
双氧水 7g/L
冰醋酸 0.8g/L
过氧化氢酶HT512 0.4g/L
染棉助剂配方:
螯合分散剂G600c 2.5g/L
浴中抗皱剂BC固 3.5g/L
生物抛光酶Collusoft Combi 1%
元明粉 50g/L
纯碱 15g/L
后处理助剂配方:
冰醋酸 1.8g/L
净洗剂Sc 2g/L
冰醋酸 0.3g/L
工艺流程:
前处理工艺流程:常温下先加入以上所述前处理配方,以5℃/min的速率升温到98℃,保温45min后以2℃/min的速率降温至78℃排水,然后水洗2次,冰醋酸洗1次,过氧化氢酶洗1次;
染棉工艺流程:40℃加入以上所述棉染色助剂和染料,以1℃/min的速率升温到60℃,加入纯碱后保温60min,排水;且一定要加酶洗助剂,达到减少面料表面毛羽,增加光洁度的目的。
后处理工艺流程:棉染色完成后用清水、冰醋酸、净洗剂Sc清洗,最后加软油精。
其中,染色机型为日阪溢流染色机,主泵转速55、提布轮速度60、喷嘴位置90、60S/圈、间隙4。
最终定型工艺:染色完成后振烘,烘干温度130℃,烘干后加柔软剂最终定型,定型温度130℃,车速15-20m/min。
预缩定型工艺:蒸汽28%,超喂8%,车速10m/min,橡胶毯温度130℃,呢毯温度130℃;且一定要先经过橡胶毯再经过呢毯,达到仿丝光的目的。
经过前处理、染色、最终定型、预缩定型后做成全棉棉毛面料,成品有效门幅为148cm+5cm,平方米克重为185g+10g,缩水率:纵-1.9%/横-4.6%,面料手感细腻滑爽、色泽明亮,具有丝光整理效果、水洗稳定性、悬垂性好。
本发明仿丝光处理的棉针织面料较普通棉针织面料更轻薄、柔软,布面平整、光洁度好,色泽明亮、手感细腻滑爽,物理性能稳定、悬垂性较好。该面料不需经过丝光处理工艺,也能使面料达到真丝般的外观、且水洗稳定性良好,降低成本,同时也可减少丝光处理废水排放,非常符合当下绿色环保、可持续发展的主题。
本文中所描述的具体实施例仅仅是对本发明精神作举例说明。本发明所属技术领域的技术人员可以对所描述的具体实施例做各种各样的修改或补充或采用类似的方式替代,但并不会偏离本发明的精神或者超越所附权利要求书所定义的范围。
Claims (4)
1.一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,选用细支棉纤维纱线,采用双罗纹交织结构;在染色加工时增加酶洗工艺以减少布面毛羽,并使之光洁;增加预缩工序,达到仿丝光效果的同时改善面料水洗稳定性;预缩工序为:将面料先经过橡胶毯,再经过呢毯。
2.根据权利要求1所述一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述双罗纹交织结构通过双面开幅机进行编织,所述双面开幅机机号为28G。
3.根据权利要求1所述一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,纱线原料:55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,纺纱方式为紧密纺;
织造工艺:选用机型为34英寸28针的双面开幅机编织成双罗纹组织;全接55S精梳棉含30%长绒棉,线长为11.5cm/50针。
染色工艺:染色过程包括前处理、染棉和后处理,前处理配方增加酶洗工艺减少布面毛羽,以使面料光洁;
前处理助剂配方:
浴中抗皱剂BC固 2 g/L
双氧水稳定剂BW 1 g/L
精练剂COLhc 0.5g/L
合纤用精炼剂WX-240 1 g/L
片碱 1.4 g/L
双氧水 7 g/L
冰醋酸 0.8g/L
过氧化氢酶HT512 0.4 g/L
染棉助剂配方:
螯合分散剂G600c 2.5 g/L
浴中抗皱剂BC固 3.5 g/L
生物抛光酶Collusoft Combi 1%
元明粉 50g/L
纯碱 15 g/L
后处理助剂配方:
冰醋酸 1.8 g/L
净洗剂Sc 2g/L
冰醋酸 0.3 g/L。
4.根据权利要求1所述一种仿丝光处理全棉针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,前处理工艺流程:常温下先加入以上所述前处理配方,以5℃/min的速率升温到98℃,保温45min后以2℃/min的速率降温至78℃排水,然后水洗2次,冰醋酸洗1次,过氧化氢酶洗1次,前处理工艺曲线如附图2所示;
染棉工艺流程:40℃加入以上所述棉染色助剂和染料,以1℃/min的速率升温到60℃,加入纯碱后保温60min,排水;且一定要加酶洗助剂,达到减少面料表面毛羽,增加光洁度的目的。
后处理工艺流程:棉染色完成后用清水、冰醋酸、净洗剂Sc清洗,最后加软油精;
所述染色机型为日阪溢流染色机,主泵转速55、提布轮速度60、喷嘴位置90、60S/圈、间隙4;
最终定型工艺:染色完成后振烘,烘干温度130℃,烘干后加柔软剂最终定型,定型温度130℃,车速15-20 m/min;
预缩定型工艺:蒸汽28%,超喂8%,车速10m/min,橡胶毯温度130℃,呢毯温度130℃;且一定要先经过橡胶毯再经过呢毯,达到仿丝光的目的。
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