EP0019639B1 - Methode d'amelioration de la qualite d'un materiau en fibre de laine - Google Patents

Methode d'amelioration de la qualite d'un materiau en fibre de laine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0019639B1
EP0019639B1 EP79901188A EP79901188A EP0019639B1 EP 0019639 B1 EP0019639 B1 EP 0019639B1 EP 79901188 A EP79901188 A EP 79901188A EP 79901188 A EP79901188 A EP 79901188A EP 0019639 B1 EP0019639 B1 EP 0019639B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
wool
fiber
solution
water
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP79901188A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0019639A4 (fr
EP0019639A1 (fr
Inventor
Hiroshi Hojo
Sadao Noguchi
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/207Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/21Halogenated carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/13Ammonium halides or halides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/55Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/68Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
    • D06M11/70Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with oxides of phosphorus; with hypophosphorous, phosphorous or phosphoric acids or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/188Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof

Definitions

  • wool fibers used in the present invention means dandruff fibers obtained from sheep, goats, llamas, alpaca and similar animals.
  • Wool fibers are composed of aggregates of prosenchymatic cortex cells, which form the cortex inside the fibers, and flat cuticle cells, which form the surface layers.
  • the cuticle cells are scaly, and the top ends of these cells are overlapping edges to protect the cortex.
  • the surface layer of wool fibers extends inwards from the outside and has an exocuticle, an endocuticle and an epicuticle surrounding this cuticle.
  • Polar groups are contained in large quantities in the endocuticle.
  • the endocuticle on the inside of the marginal areas of the cuticular cells forms a layer that swells slightly when water is absorbed and can easily be influenced by it.
  • the method for modifying wool fibers to increase their quality according to the present invention is to locally chlorinate edge areas which run in the form of scales on the surfaces of the wool fibers, to dissolve and remove the chlorinated edge areas by the reduction treatment in order to remove the surfaces smooth the wool fibers and reinforce the smoothed surfaces to obtain high quality wool fibers that have a smooth surface and good durability.
  • a method according to the preamble of claim 1 is already known (FR-A-1 271 349).
  • the wool fibers are immersed in an oxidation bath that contains chloride, hypochlorite and a cyanuric acid salt and has a neutral or weakly alkaline pH. After removal from the oxidation bath, the wool is washed, treated with a pyrosulfite solution for dechlorination, washed again and dried.
  • the known method is intended to prevent the wool from felting and shrinking.
  • the invention achieves the object of specifying a method for modifying wool fibers in order to increase their quality, in which the edge regions on the surfaces of the wool fibers are removed, in order to modify wool fibers with a smooth surface and good Get a grip.
  • the present invention provides a modification technique by which numerous properties of the wool fibers, such as gloss, softness, shrink resistance and dyeability, can be improved without degrading the basic properties of the starting wool fibers. For example, alpaca lamb fibers, merino wool fibers and teeswater wool fibers are modified into fine mohair-like fibers or cashmere-like fibers or mohair-like fibers according to the newly developed technique of the present invention.
  • a wool fiber material is first immersed in a saturated solution of a neutral salt, such as sodium chloride or Glauber's salt, which contains an acid such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid, formic acid, phosphoric acid, monochloroacetic acid or dichloroacetic acid. Since the surface of the wool fiber is very water-repellent, a saturated solution is such a strong one Electrolytes are unable to dissolve the surface of the wool fiber. On the inside of the edge areas of the scales of the wool fiber, however, there is the endocuticular area which contains large amounts of polar groups and to which water is incorporated in the normal state, and the acid is contained in this area in a state dissolved in this water.
  • a neutral salt such as sodium chloride or Glauber's salt
  • the wool fiber is then immersed in a saturated solution of a neutral salt or in water, the saturated solution or water containing sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite or chlorocyanuric acid salt.
  • a neutral salt or in water containing sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite or chlorocyanuric acid salt.
  • sodium hypochlorite which is supplied in a strongly alkaline state with a pH of 12 for stabilization
  • an acid is added to neutralize just before immersion and the solution is used in the neutral state; however, this prior neutralization is not required in the case of the chlorocyanate salt, which is dissolved in water to form a neutral solution.
  • the wool fiber When the wool fiber is so immersed in the solution of a chlorinating agent such as sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite or chlorocyanuric acid salt, the chlorine of the chlorinating agent is activated in the acidic areas to bring about chlorination, whereas in other areas no chlorination is initiated because these areas of the saturated solution of sodium chloride or Glauber's salt. Then the wool fiber is immersed in water, causing the chlorinated area to swell. When the wool fiber is immersed in water containing the chlorinating agent, chlorination and swelling are accelerated simultaneously in the acidic region. In this case, the response is relatively stormy or vigorous.
  • a chlorinating agent such as sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite or chlorocyanuric acid salt
  • the wool fiber is treated with an alkaline solution containing a reducing agent such as sodium pyrosulfite and ammonia or the like, thereby reducing and dissolving the non-chlorinated remaining areas to smooth the surface of the wool fiber.
  • a reducing agent such as sodium pyrosulfite and ammonia or the like
  • the required amount of an acid is incorporated into the inside of the projection of the scaly edge areas of the wool fibers, where water is absorbed very uniformly, while the other areas are controlled by a saturated solution of a neutral salt, so that the acid is removed, to penetrate into these areas, whereupon chlorine is activated by the incorporated acid in a chlorination bath and the chlorination takes place only in precisely limited areas.
  • the present invention provides a chlorination process that eliminates all of the disadvantages of the conventional process.
  • the surfaces of the wool fibers are smoothed.
  • the wool fibers are thus modified in accordance with the present invention, and their grade of quality is increased by this specific method.
  • NaCIO sodium chloride
  • the acid incorporated in the surface layer causes chlorination, and the reaction proceeds very gradually in such a state that the chlorine gas hardly leaks from the surface layer.
  • the chlorination proceeds relatively vigorously through the acid contained in the wool fiber to form chlorine.
  • This treatment dissolves 95 to 100% of the edge area and the surface of the wool fiber is smoothed.
  • the wool fiber is then treated for 3 to 6 minutes in a solution which contains 3-10 ml / i formalin (37% solution), has a pH adjusted to a neutral value and is kept at 50-90 ° C., to reinforce the surface of the wool fiber, after which the wool fiber thus treated is washed. This completes the method according to the present invention.
  • the Lincoln wool hair is immersed in the above-mentioned solution containing sodium chloride and hydrochloric acid for six minutes. Then the wool fiber is squeezed out with a liquid removal ratio of almost 100% and immersed in the following solution, the pH of which is adjusted to 6.5 by adding hydrochloric acid:
  • the solution is circulated at 20-22 ° C for 10 minutes.
  • the liquid is removed, the edge area is swollen with cold water, and the treated wool fiber is washed with water.
  • the wool fiber is then treated in the following solution at 25 ° C. for 3 minutes:
  • the liquid is removed and the treated wool is washed with warm water kept at 35 ° C. Then the wool fiber is treated at 80 ° C for 30 minutes in the following solution, the pH of which is adjusted to 5 by adding acetic acid:
  • the treated wool fiber is washed with water and dried.
  • the treatment method according to the invention is thus completed.
  • the wool hair treated in this way has a wonderful shine, which is similar to that of mohair, and a very soft feel. When viewed with a microscope, the surface condition can hardly be distinguished from that of mohair.
  • Wool fibers previously used for blended products with mohair wool can be modified according to the present invention, and high quality wool fibers can be obtained which result in loop yarns, knitted fabrics and knitwear comparable to those made exclusively from mohair wool consist.
  • the modified wool fibers of the present invention are excellent in numerous properties such as wash resistance and dyeability.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

Une methode d'adoucissement de la surface de fibre de laine consiste a tremper un materiau de fibre de laine dans une solution acide contenant un acide tel que l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide sulfurique, l'acide acetique, l'acide formique, l'acide phosphorique, l'acide monochloracetique, ou l'acide dichloracetique, qui est saturee avec un sel neutre tel que du chlorure de sodium ou du sel de Glauber de maniere a incorporer l'acide dans la bordure de la peau d'ecailles de la fibre de laine, a tremper la fibre dans une solution saturee avec un sel neutre tel que du chlorure de sodium ou du sel de Glauber ou une solution neutre contenant de l'hypochlorite de sodium, du chlorite de sodium, ou du cyanure chlorine pour chloriner la bordure ayant ete impregnee avec l'acide dans des conditions douces, a retirer la solution de la fibre, a la tremper dans de l'eau pour gonfler la partie chlorinee, a la laver avec de l'eau, puis a traiter les parties non liberees de la chlorination dans une solution de pyrosulfite de sodium et dans une solution alkaline telle que de l'ammoniaque, enlevant ainsi la pellicule externe de la fibre de laine. La laine d'alpaga de jeunes traitee selon cette invention est amelioree pour lui donner un aspect superfin semblable au mohair et produit un nouveau materiau fibreux ayant un toucher et un lustre doux qui lui donne l'apparence du mohair. Ainsi, la laine merinos superfine d'Australie peut etre amelioree pour lui donner une apparence et un toucher semblable a la laine de Cachemire, et la laine Cheesewater peut etre amelioree pour obtenir un materiau de la qualite du mohair. En outre, la laine traitee selon l'invention est excellente pour sa resistance au retrait et son aptitude a la teinture, et la surface de la fibre teinte presente un aspect profond et clair et un excellent lustre avec une bonne solidite.

Claims (4)

1. Procédé d'amélioration de la qualité d'un matériau en fibres de laine dans lequel
a) l'on immerge un matériau de fibres de laine dans une solution aqueuse saturée d'un sel neutre qui présente un pH situé dans le domaine de la neutralité, ou dans de l'eau, la solution aqueuse ou l'eau renfermant un composé choisi parmi l'hypochlorite de sodium, le chlorite de sodium ou un sel de l'acide chloro- cyanurique ainsi que leurs mélanges, pour obtenir un chlorage progressif des fibres de laine,
b) on effectue un lavage à l'eau pour éliminer les zones chlorées,
c) on met le matériau de fibres de laine obtenu au contact d'une solution qui renferme du py- rosulfite de sodium et un liquide alcalin pour lisser la surface des fibres de laine, caractérisé en ce que
i) avant l'étape a) on immerge le matériau de fibres de laine dans une solution saturée d'un sel neutre d'un électrolyte fort renfermant un acide, pour incorporer l'acide dans les zones marginales de l'en- docuticule des écailles des fibres de laine, et en ce qu'avant l'étape b)
ii) l'on élimine le liquide du matériau de fibres de laine ainsi traité, et
iii) on immerge le matériau de laine dans de l'eau, pour faire gonfler les zones chlorées.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise, comme sel neutre à l'étape i), le chlorure de sodium ou le sel de Glauber.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'à l'étape c) on utilise comme liquide alcalin une solution aqueuse d'ammoniaque.
4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise comme acide à l'étape i) l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide sulfurique, l'acide acétique, l'acide formique, l'acide phosphorique, l'acide mono- chloracétique ou l'acide dichloracétique.
EP79901188A 1978-09-01 1979-08-17 Methode d'amelioration de la qualite d'un materiau en fibre de laine Expired EP0019639B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP10794978A JPS5536342A (en) 1978-09-01 1978-09-01 High grade quality improving method of wool fiber substance
JP107949/78 1978-09-01

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0019639A4 EP0019639A4 (fr) 1980-11-28
EP0019639A1 EP0019639A1 (fr) 1980-12-10
EP0019639B1 true EP0019639B1 (fr) 1983-08-31

Family

ID=14472127

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP79901188A Expired EP0019639B1 (fr) 1978-09-01 1979-08-17 Methode d'amelioration de la qualite d'un materiau en fibre de laine

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US4319879A (fr)
EP (1) EP0019639B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS5536342A (fr)
DE (1) DE2966108D1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1980000580A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS56140164A (en) * 1980-03-27 1981-11-02 Hiroshi Houjiyou Modification of animal fibrous material by scale peeling
JPS57103754U (fr) * 1980-12-17 1982-06-25
GB8604923D0 (en) * 1986-02-27 1986-04-03 Mead Corp Folding method
JPS62257458A (ja) * 1986-09-19 1987-11-10 倉敷紡績株式会社 スケ−ル除去獣毛
US5298320A (en) * 1987-04-10 1994-03-29 Commonwealth Sceintific And Industrial Research Organisation Non-woven material containing wool
DE19648855A1 (de) * 1996-11-26 1998-05-28 Alchimea Naturwaren Gmbh Verfahren zur Ausrüstung von Keratinfasern und Zellulose
WO2006083650A2 (fr) * 2005-02-02 2006-08-10 Vartest Labs, Inc. Procede de determination de la hauteur d'echelle de cuticules de fibres
KR101187493B1 (ko) 2011-04-26 2012-10-02 경북대학교 산학협력단 내섬유 분할을 이용한 세섬사 촉감을 갖는 양모섬유의 제조방법 및 이에 의해 제조된 양모섬유
CN106120292B (zh) * 2016-07-18 2019-04-30 宁夏荣昌绒业集团有限公司 一种山羊绒去肤皮处理方法
CN108951142B (zh) * 2018-06-26 2021-05-14 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 具有山羊绒手感和光泽的粗纺呢绒面料及其制备方法
CN114000346B (zh) * 2021-02-01 2023-09-19 邵阳美丽来发制品有限公司 一种假发用牛毛纤维及其拉直方法和应用
IT202100012569A1 (it) * 2021-05-14 2022-11-14 Lanificio Luigi Colombo S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un tessuto comprendente disegni in rilevo realizzati con intrecci di fili
CN115450039B (zh) * 2022-10-21 2024-02-13 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 一种全毛可机洗精纺浓黑绒面面料的加工方法

Family Cites Families (8)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1271349A (fr) * 1960-09-26 1961-09-08 Basf Ag Procédé pour l'apprêt anti-feutrant et irrétrécissable de la laine et de textiles renfermant de la laine, en bains alcalins, et préparation des bains
GB1098901A (en) * 1963-09-06 1968-01-10 Fisons Ind Chemicals Ltd Improvements in the treatment of wool
GB1098582A (en) * 1964-05-07 1968-01-10 Prec Processes Textiles Ltd Production of shrink-resistant wool
JPS503837A (fr) * 1973-05-20 1975-01-16
DE2326463A1 (de) 1973-05-24 1974-12-19 Basf Ag Verfahren zum filz- und krumpffreimachen von textilgut, das keratinfasern enthaelt oder daraus besteht
JPS5312640B2 (fr) * 1973-08-20 1978-05-02
ZA742248B (en) * 1974-04-09 1975-07-30 South African Wool Board Oxidation of wool and like keratin fibres
ES446501A1 (es) 1975-09-30 1977-11-01 Precision Proc Textiles Ltd Un procedimiento para tratar una longitud continua de lana para hacerla resistente al encogimiento.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO1980000580A1 (fr) 1980-04-03
DE2966108D1 (en) 1983-10-06
JPS5753470B2 (fr) 1982-11-12
EP0019639A4 (fr) 1980-11-28
EP0019639A1 (fr) 1980-12-10
US4319879A (en) 1982-03-16
JPS5536342A (en) 1980-03-13

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