EP0063224B1 - Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus plats à double-face et tissus plats ainsi fabriqués - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus plats à double-face et tissus plats ainsi fabriqués Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0063224B1
EP0063224B1 EP82101573A EP82101573A EP0063224B1 EP 0063224 B1 EP0063224 B1 EP 0063224B1 EP 82101573 A EP82101573 A EP 82101573A EP 82101573 A EP82101573 A EP 82101573A EP 0063224 B1 EP0063224 B1 EP 0063224B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
web
warps
pile
cloth
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP82101573A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0063224A1 (fr
Inventor
Werner Brüggemann
Heinrich Laus
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Girmes Werke AG
Original Assignee
Girmes Werke AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Girmes Werke AG filed Critical Girmes Werke AG
Publication of EP0063224A1 publication Critical patent/EP0063224A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0063224B1 publication Critical patent/EP0063224B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
    • D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
    • D03D27/10—Fabrics woven face-to-face, e.g. double velvet

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing two-sided textile fabrics, in particular for outerwear, with an optic of a flat loom product, which comprises all the qualities that have been produced from warp and weft, and a plush side.
  • the invention relates to a sheet-like two-sided textile fabric produced by this method, which is suitable for outerwear for the manufacture of coats, jackets, capes, anoraks and the like.
  • the invention is based on the object of being able to produce a two-sided textile fabric with a plush side and a cloth or suede-like side, in which the connection points of the pole knobs are effectively and permanently covered without weakening the polarity or the strength of the goods themselves, while on the other hand the textile handle and the natural fall of textile goods are achieved.
  • the textile fabric manufactured according to the invention thus consists of two layers which, unaffected by the other layer, can be designed according to their desired function.
  • the layer with the cloth or suede-like appearance can be made of high-quality and possibly very fine material, while the other layer is made of less expensive material, which guarantees a good and firm integration of the studs, but does not necessarily have an attractive appearance got to.
  • the connection of the two layers is produced by floating incorporation of the warp threads of the layer having the cloth or suede-like appearance, no parts or threads of the other layer can be seen on the cloth or suede-like side of the fabric, just as little as the binding points of polnubs are visible there.
  • a post-treatment such as roughening or coating with the materials that impair the textile handle and fall is not necessary. Rather, the goods can be manufactured on the double plush chair in one operation and, after cutting the pile threads, they are ready for further processing into clothing.
  • a fabric web 14 produced on a double plush chair consists of an upper unit 15 and a lower unit 16, which are connected to one another by means of pile threads 5a + 5b alternately integrated in the upper unit and the lower unit.
  • Both the upper unit 15 and the lower unit 16 each consist of two superimposed woven layers 13 and 12, each of which in the usual way consists of warp threads 1a + 1b, 2a + 2b or 6a + 6b, 7a + 7b and weft threads 3 + 4 or 8 + 9 is formed.
  • the web-like fabric 14 is produced on a two-loom or a double rapier loom with a single-loom weaving technique with one weft for the upper unit and one weft for the lower unit, i. H. four basic fabrics are produced using a single-layer weaving technique, the inner fabrics 12 being connected to one another via the pile threads 5a + 5b.
  • the outer fabrics 13 are a flat fabric separate from the carrier fabrics for the pile threads 5a + 5b, which can be designed independently of the other fabric in terms of weave and color.
  • the fabrics 13 and 12 are each held together in that the warp threads 1a + 1b + 6a + 6b change at certain intervals into the associated fabric 12 and are bound there by a weft thread 9 + 4.
  • the warp threads can be changed as desired.
  • a good area-wise connection between the fabrics 13 and 12 is obtained without the fabric 12 or parts thereof being visible on the outside of the fabric 13.
  • the warp threads 1a + 1b + 6a + 6b which change from the fabric 13 to the fabric 12 are not visible to the outside because they are covered by the plush side formed by the pile threads 5a + 5b.
  • the pile threads 5a + 5b are W-bound in the fabric 12 in the illustrated embodiment. It can be seen that the warp threads 1 a + 1 b + 6a + 6b of the outer fabrics 13 change between the binding points 10a + 10b of the pile threads 5a + 5b in the fabric 12, i. H. the binding points 11 of the warp threads 1a + 1b + 6a + 6b of the outer fabric 13 in the inner fabric 12 each lie between binding points 10a + 10b of the pile threads 5a + 5b and do not overlap with these.
  • the surface image of the outer fabrics 13 is shaped like a normal flat weave by the woven weave, warping, color, material in warp and weft.
  • the outer flat fabric 13 can therefore be designed both as a plain fabric and with strips in any shape and width.
  • the weft insertion can also contribute to the design of the surface structure of the fabric 13. Taffet, satin, twill etc. can be used as a binding.
  • a weft changer can be used alternately with a thin and a thick weft thread. Accordingly, different materials or threads can be processed in the individual fabric layers 13 and 12. It is also possible to use smooth and flame yarn in various orders. All cellulose fiber types, native and regenerated wool, natural silk, polyamide, polyester, acrylic and modacryle, normal and shrink types can be used as the material for the back of the flat weave. The same applies to the pole material. In order to give the surface of the flat fabric 13 a suede-like appearance, yarns made of splitable composite threads are used as the material for the flat fabric back, for example threads consisting of polyamide and polyester single sectors.
  • the woven composite threads with their components lying side by side are split in a known manner by treatment with hot water or light sanding of the fabric surface.
  • Yarns with extra fine fibers of a single fiber unit from 0.0001 to 0.8 denier are also suitable for the purpose mentioned, as are yarns made from natural silk such as weft or bourette silk.
  • the nub length of the cut pile threads 5a + 5b can vary depending on the desired appearance of the plush side and can vary between short velvet goods and a long fox fur. Expressed in numbers, this means a free length of the pile threads 5a + 5b between the upper section 15 and lower section 16 of 2 mm to 80 mm and a total height of the pile of the cut goods from 1 mm to 40 mm above the ground.
  • the plush side or pile side can be antibacterial and antistatic, while both sides of the fabric can be made water-repellent.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (11)

1. Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus plats à double-face, destiné en particulier à la confection de survêtements et ayant l'aspect optique d'un produit réalisé sur un métier à tisser plat présentant toutes les qualités d'un produit réalisé par fils de chaîne et de trame, dont le côté extérieur peut avoir l'aspect du type drap ou daim, caractérisé en ce qu'il est réalisé suivant le procédé de tissage double un produit de peluche double, dont les deux pans liés par les fils de poil sont réalisés en deux couches avec liaison réciproque locale avec armure des fils de poil uniquement dans l'une des couches, et que les fils de poil sont découpés pour séparer les deux couches.
2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la couche de chaque pan formant le côté du type drap ou daim est fixée dans la couche portant les fils de poils avec une armure appropriée des poils et des dimensions de rapport appropriée des poils traversants et des poils apparaissants.
3. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que les couches formant le côté du type drap ou daim sont tissées et que leurs fils de chaîne sont fixés à distance régulière ou irrégulière dans la couche opposée de chaque pan.
4. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le tissu de couverture et le tissu de support sont liés par des points d'armure liant le support à la couverture ou la couverture au support, ces points de liaison pouvant être situés à des distances variables l'une par rapport à l'autre.
5. Tissu plat à double-face réalisé suivant le procédé décrit dans l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste de deux couches (13 et 12) liées l'une à l'autre, l'une des couches (13) étant un tissu à aspect du type drap ou daim, tandis que l'autre couche (12) sert de support à des fils de poil (5a et 5b).
6. Tissu plat suivant la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que les fils de chaîne (1a et 1b ; 6a et 6b) du tissu (13) sont fixés par une liaison flottante dans l'autre couche (12).
7. Tissu plat suivant la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que les fils de chaîne (1 a et ib ; 6a et 6b) du tissu (13) à aspect de drap ou de daim sont armés de manière arbitraire dans l'autre couche (12).
8. Tissu plat suivant l'une des revendications 5, 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce que la couche (12) servant de support pour les fils de poil (5a et 5b) est un tissu différent de l'autre couche (13).
9. Tissu plat suivant l'une des revendications 5 à 8, caractérisé en ce que les fils de chaîne (1a et 1 b ; 6a et 6b) du tissu de couverture (13) consistent d'une matière sensiblement différente ou présentent une coloration différente que les fils de chaîne (2a et 2b ; 7a et 7b) du tissu de support (12).
10. Tissu plat suivant l'une des revendications 5 à 9, caractérisé en ce que les fils de trame (3 ; 8) du tissu de couverture (13) consistent d'une matière sensiblement différente ou présentent une coloration différente que les fils de trame (4 ; 9) du tissu de support (12).
11. Tissu plat suivant l'une des revendications 5 à 10, caractérisé en ce que les fils de chaîne du tissu de support (12) et du tissu de couverture (13) sont tissés de façon alternante pour déterminer l'aspect de surface du tissu du type drap ou daim.
EP82101573A 1981-03-11 1982-03-02 Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus plats à double-face et tissus plats ainsi fabriqués Expired EP0063224B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3109155A DE3109155A1 (de) 1981-03-11 1981-03-11 Verfahren zum herstellen zweiseitiger textiler flaechengebilde und danach hergestelltes flaechengebilde
DE3109155 1981-03-11

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0063224A1 EP0063224A1 (fr) 1982-10-27
EP0063224B1 true EP0063224B1 (fr) 1985-01-09

Family

ID=6126867

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP82101573A Expired EP0063224B1 (fr) 1981-03-11 1982-03-02 Procédé pour la fabrication de tissus plats à double-face et tissus plats ainsi fabriqués

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0063224B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS57167435A (fr)
DE (2) DE3109155A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES8302809A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1235044A (fr) * 1983-05-04 1988-04-12 Fumio Shibata Tissu textile dense a qualites d'impermeabilite
DE4109701A1 (de) * 1991-03-23 1992-09-24 Girmes Gmbh Bahnfoermiger bezugstoff
JP2621794B2 (ja) * 1994-04-25 1997-06-18 井関農機株式会社 農作業機
CN102978776B (zh) * 2012-12-11 2016-01-13 江苏耀华塑料有限公司 一种撑起高度可控的机织模袋布的制备方法

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB190900887A (en) * 1909-01-13 1909-10-21 Marcellin Antoine Willot Improved Multiple Woven Fabric.
GB191228773A (en) * 1911-12-13 1900-01-01 Ludorf Gustav Improvements in or relating to Weaving.
GB293564A (en) * 1927-06-27 1928-07-12 Rowland Spencer Improvements in multiple ply woven fabrics
FR2337774A1 (fr) * 1976-01-08 1977-08-05 Sportiss Ets Jean Laurent Tissu matelasse extensible

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS57167435A (en) 1982-10-15
DE3109155A1 (de) 1982-09-30
EP0063224A1 (fr) 1982-10-27
ES510293A0 (es) 1983-02-01
DE3261801D1 (en) 1985-02-21
ES8302809A1 (es) 1983-02-01

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