Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
  • D06P5/003—Transfer printing
  • D06P5/004—Transfer printing using subliming dyes
  • D06P5/005—Transfer printing using subliming dyes on resin-treated fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
  • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
  • D06L4/60—Optical bleaching or brightening
  • D06L4/657—Optical bleaching or brightening combined with other treatments, e.g. finishing, bleaching, softening, dyeing or pigment printing
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
  • Y10S8/916—Natural fiber dyeing
  • Y10S8/917—Wool or silk

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for printing textile materials which consist entirely or partially of natural silk fibers, according to the principle of transfer printing from a transfer printing medium at elevated temperature.
• the principle of such pressure transmission methods is e.g. in FR-PS 1 233 330 and 1 585 119.
• JP-A B-106 883 describes that natural silk fibers are chemically modified by grafting on styrene or other vinyl monomers. This process gives the silk fibers a certain affinity for disperse dyes, but is cumbersome and expensive and, of course, does not always have an advantageous effect on other properties of the natural fiber. It has therefore not been introduced.
• JP-A 53-78386 belongs to this group of silk transfer printing.
• Variant that is supposed to provide good rub-fast prints and consists of treating a silk fabric with a polyhydric alcohol, the boiling point of which is above 140 o C, and printing the pretreated fabric with basic dyes in a thermally dry manner.
• the fastness to washing is not specified, but should be inadequate since the color cannot be more fast to washing than the polyol introduced. Since the transfer printing with basic dyes continues cumbersome and the number of color tones that can be achieved with such dyes is limited, the silk substances are poorly penetrated by these dyes and, moreover, yellowing of the substrate is also observed, this proposal cannot achieve the goal either.
• dyes have become known, for example CI Solvent Blue 36, which are transferred from the transfer medium to silk at relatively low temperatures, for example 170 to 180 ° C., in 30 to 40 seconds and with good yield.
• these dyes are so flexible at room temperatures that they migrate and recrystallize so quickly and strongly in the swelling agents used in the silk that after a storage time of just a few hours - i.e. a storage time that is usually worth buying before washing must be taken and can hardly be shortened, significant level differences and discolouration occur in the original print image.
• Both of the two processes known at the beginning which work with impregnating agents, are also to be washed very soon; according to FR-A 2296537 cold ge Kirt'und 15 minutes, soaped at 50 0 immediately after the transfer printing.
• the yellowing of natural silk during transfer printing could in principle be compensated by this, i.e. be made invisible by treating the silk with an optical brightener specially developed for this material (e.g. "Uvitex WG", Ciba-Geigy AG).
• an optical brightener specially developed for this material (e.g. "Uvitex WG", Ciba-Geigy AG).
• Such optical brighteners are not suitable for combined use and must be separated, i.e. in a separate dyeing process.
• Such a second pretreatment or aftertreatment would be too complicated and expensive for the transfer printing process under consideration and therefore not portable.
• Optical brighteners for polyesters which can be used in the process according to the invention are generally those which are nonionic heterocyclic compounds, in particular oxazole and triazine derivatives.
• the known stilbene derivatives which have an optically brightening effect, are not suitable for polyester and are therefore not suitable for the purposes of the invention.
• the following are examples of industrial products which can be used according to the invention and belong to the above class:
• the amount of optical brightener used in the aqueous pretreatment liquor should be chosen so that the amount remaining on the silk after application is just sufficient to avoid a yellowed appearance; higher quantities are of no advantage. The sufficient amount can be determined very quickly by very few experiments.
• the pretreatment liquor is of the order of magnitude of 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on dry, pretreated silk fabric. If the pretreatment liquor is applied to the silk fabric in such amounts that an approximately 100% coating results, the pretreatment liquor preferably contains 0.2 to 5% by weight of brightener.
• the pretreatment itself can be carried out according to the procedures of the publications listed above; the most common is padding on the foulard.
• the pretreatment liquor contains so much impregnating agent that after application to the silk fabric and drying 15 to 30% by weight, preferably about 20% by weight, of impregnating agent remain in the fabric.
• an impregnating agent which is applied as a pretreatment agent before the transfer printing in the aqueous phase
• ie in solution, suspension or dispersion ie in solution, suspension or dispersion
• polyvalent, monomeric or polymeric polyalcohols which are solid at temperatures below 60 ° C and melt in the temperature range from 60 to 160 ° C, are colorless, do not attack silk and in the liquid, but not in the solid state on the act dispersing dyes used, this latter condition of course only needs to apply to the combination of the selected dye and impregnating agent used.
• Suitable dyes are the dyes normally used for transfer printing on polyester substrates, generally dispersion dyes, such as, for example, CI Disperse Red 60, CI Disperse Yellow 54, CI Disperse Blue 331, CI Disperse Blue 72, CI Disperse Blue 19, CI Disperse Violet 1.
• dispersion dyes such as, for example, CI Disperse Red 60, CI Disperse Yellow 54, CI Disperse Blue 331, CI Disperse Blue 72, CI Disperse Blue 19, CI Disperse Violet 1.
• the more water-insoluble the dyes the better the wash fastness that can usually be achieved.
• the specified trichromes should only be used in conjunction with silk substrates which have been pretreated with one of the impregnating agents described above and are solid to at least 60 ° C.
• the transfer printing can be carried out as usual; reference is made to the above-mentioned publications relating to the prior art.
• especially adapted process conditions should also be set for special substrates and effects.
• the brilliant shades of color required for natural silk and sufficient general fastness properties of the print are achieved with transfer printing conditions of 30 seconds / 205 ° C reached.
• the penetration of the printed image, which is required for many silk products such as scarves, etc. - the front and back should not be visibly different from one another, is excellent for lighter silk fabrics with a weight per unit area of at most 50 g / m 2 .
• Higher-weight substances obtained by this print image when the contact pressure of the Umdrucknoss is increased to the textile material, for example to 10 to 10 P a, for example, and preferably 5 x 10 Pa and above.
• Such impregnating agents are those in the list above with the exception of the liquid polyglycols.
• the transfer prints produced are resistant to changes in the printed image for up to 8 weeks when stored below 40 ° C .; then, however, you should no longer wait to rinse or wash. It is sufficient to rinse the goods with warm water at 40 ° C for some time.
• the dyes used are usually slightly water-soluble. This must be taken into account when washing the printed substrate. If liquid, easily and quickly soluble glycols have been used in the pretreatment of the silk fabric, a cold rinse is sufficient. When using (or using) waxy glycols that take a little longer to dissolve, it is best to use warm water. If surfactants are added for faster wetting, careful attention should be paid to the solubility of the dyes. If desired, surfactants can be added to the washing liquor. Then it is dried.
• the invention is therefore based on a twofold basis: either one applies transfer conditions in which material yellowing would occur, but prevents them by adding optical brighteners; or one applies conditions in which a rapid dye migration would then have to occur, but this is prevented by using migration-preventing impregnating agents. Both basic measures can be combined.
• a second way of obtaining high-color, high-penetration prints is to use transfer paper with an extremely high range of dyes. This measure is not obvious, because there was a fear that poor rub fastness would occur with large depths of color (see, for example, BASF publication CTE-072 d, page 10). Surprisingly, this was not observed. Instead, it was found that with the known Dyes for transfer printing on polyester, for example CI Disperse Red 60, CI Disperse Yellow 54 and CI Disperse Blue 331 for transfer printing on silk, the guideline depth 2/1 could be achieved while maintaining the textile fastness, if transfer papers with a dye range of 1 to 2, 5 g / m 2 , preferably about 1.5 g / m can be used. If one produces these subcarriers in gravure printing with the usual engraving, this value is obtained with a printing ink which has a dye content of 15% by weight. When transfer printing polyester, a dye supply of 0.75 g / m 2 is generally not exceeded.
• the specified amounts of dye refer to the square meter of printed area, ie areas that do not contain any dye are not included in the calculation. It is particularly surprising that the increase in color strength is observed even with extremely light silk qualities with a basis weight of less than 50 g / m 2 , in which the color strength is already visible with a conventional dye range of 0.75 g / m 2. and the back of the fabric is practically identical.
• the transfer printing medium which generally consists of paper, is obtained in the usual known manner. With regard to this process feature, reference should also be made to the literature already cited.
• the method according to the invention has the additional advantage that the extensive sample and design collections that are usually already available in transfer printers can be used without additional work and changes.
• a desized and bleached silk fabric of the quality "chiffon" with a basis weight of 25 g / m 2 is mixed with an aqueous liquor containing 200 g / 1 polyethylene glycol 300 and 20 g / 1 of the optical brightener "Uvitex ET" (Ciba-Geigy) , padded to 100% weight gain and dried in a stenter at 120 ° C for 1 minute.
• a transfer paper with a basis weight of 40 g / m 2 is placed thereon, which was rotogravure printed with ink containing the dyes CI Disperse Red 60, CI Disperse Yellow 54 and CI Disperse Blue 331.
• the polyethylene glycol is rinsed out of the fabric with water and dried on a tenter frame.
• a desized and bleached silk fabric with a basis weight of 70 g / m 2 is padded to 100% weight gain with an aqueous liquor which contains 20% by weight ⁇ -caprolactam and dried at 100 ° C. for two minutes.
• a transfer paper with a basis weight of 60 g / m 2 is placed thereon, which has been gravure printed with inks which contain 1,4-diisopropylaminoanthraquinone as blue dye and l-amino-2-chloro-4-hydroxyanthraquinone as red dye (it can also be l -Amino-2-bromo-4-hydroxyanthraquinone can be used), and contain the product with the formula as a yellow dye.
• the transfer printing takes place in 30 seconds at 170 ° C.
• the swelling agent is rinsed out of the fabric with water at 40 ° C and dried on a tenter.
• a desized and bleached silk fabric with a basis weight of 120 g / m 2 is padded to 100% weight gain with an aqueous liquor which contains 20% by weight ⁇ -caprolactam and dried in a tenter at 120 ° C. for two minutes.
• a transfer paper with a basis weight of 40 g / m 2 is placed on top, which was printed with gravure printing ink, which is characterized by the fact that firstly the total concentration of dye is about twice as large as usual in conventional transfer printing for polyester and secondly the basic dyes consist of mixtures of the dyes of Example 1 with those of Example 2.
• gravure printing ink which is characterized by the fact that firstly the total concentration of dye is about twice as large as usual in conventional transfer printing for polyester and secondly the basic dyes consist of mixtures of the dyes of Example 1 with those of Example 2.
• an ink which contains 9% by weight of the dye CI Disperse Red 60 and 10% by weight of the dye 1-amino-2-chloro-4-hydroxyanthraquinone.
• the transfer printing takes place in 40 seconds at 200 ° C.
• the result is a brilliant print with good fastness properties and excellent penetration of the dyes into the silk fabric.
• the swelling agent is rinsed out of the fabric with water at 40 ° C and dried on a tenter.
• a silk fabric pretreated according to Example 1 with a weight per unit area of 25 g / m 2 is printed on 40 S e-customers at 205 ° C. with a transfer paper in which 0.75 g of CI Disperse Red 60 dye are distributed uniformly per square meter.
• the dye remaining on the paper after transfer printing was dissolved in dimethylformamide and determined spectrometrically. 24% of the original amount of dye was left on the paper.
• a desized and bleached silk fabric with a basis weight of 70 g / m 2 is padded to 100% weight gain with an aqueous liquor containing 20% polyethylene glycol 300 (and 2% Uvitel EBF (Ciba-Geigy)) and two minutes at 100 ° C dried.
• a transfer paper with a basis weight of 40 g / m 2 is placed thereon, which has been rotogravure printed with inks which are 10% CI Disperse Red 60 and 10% CI Disperse Red 55 as red dye and 10% CI Disperse Yellow 54 and 10 as yellow dye % CI Solvent Yellow 160 and 10% CI Disperse Blue 331 and 10% CI Disperse Blue 60 as blue dye.
• the transfer takes place at 205 ° C in 40 m.
• the result is a very brilliant print with very good fastness properties and good penetration of the dyes into the silk fabric.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
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• 1984
  • 1984-04-12 EP EP84810182A patent/EP0160767A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
• 1985
  • 1985-04-04 US US06/719,498 patent/US4636223A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1985-04-12 JP JP60076893A patent/JPS60231883A/ja active Pending

Patent Citations (3)

Non-Patent Citations (3)

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