EP0168353B1 - Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication de produits textiles à effet de fantaisie et produits ainsi obtenus - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication de produits textiles à effet de fantaisie et produits ainsi obtenus Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0168353B1
EP0168353B1 EP85830121A EP85830121A EP0168353B1 EP 0168353 B1 EP0168353 B1 EP 0168353B1 EP 85830121 A EP85830121 A EP 85830121A EP 85830121 A EP85830121 A EP 85830121A EP 0168353 B1 EP0168353 B1 EP 0168353B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
effect
flames
textile
fibers
needles
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP85830121A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0168353A1 (fr
Inventor
Paolo Ricci
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT85830121T priority Critical patent/ATE43142T1/de
Publication of EP0168353A1 publication Critical patent/EP0168353A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0168353B1 publication Critical patent/EP0168353B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/14—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for incorporating loose fibres, e.g. in high-pile fabrics

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the production of textile manufactures characterized by fancy effects.
  • the invention allows the achievement of manufactures with remarkable effect but any way with cheap production costs.
  • Manufactures are known characterized by particular fancy effects, achieved by the presence of concentration of a material consisting of fibers possibly also chromatically differentiated from the fabric structure; these manufactures are achieved by knitting machines, equipped with thick and relatively spaced needles (thick fineness or better low fineness), which are fed by relatively fine yarns to form the ground structure and by at least one flammé effect yarn, i.e. in which masses of fibers-such as the so called "flames"-are discontinuously concentrated, that in the spinning are combined with the fibers forming the yarn and thus assuring the yarn continuity; the effect yarn may be engaged by spaced needles instead of by the totality of the needles, with drawing and structure effects, that join to the effects obtained by the flames or other concentrations.
  • the manufacturing of an effect yarn is by itself an expensive processing, both because of the requirement of using textile fibers suitable to tie the flames and generally the effects, and namely highly suitable for the spinning as for the fineness and the proportioned length and consequently not arising from textile by-products, and because of the difficulty of introducing into the compound destined to the spinning the flames or other effects generally prepared through separate processings, as well because of the very limited production that it is possible to achieve for a flammé yarn.
  • a card sliver is used, that is thus able to contain many effects and, even more, effects with dimensions that it is impossible to obtain in a yarn.
  • the textile fibers mixed with the effects when a card sliver is used, can be not homogeneous and can also arise from by-products, because the relevant impurities or clots, since the forming of a yarn is not requested, do not constitute an obstacle-as it is for the spinning-but on the contrary contribute to generate fancy effects.
  • these logically find great difficulties in the sliding through the proper support rings and the thread tighteners as well as through the knitting needles, while, in the achieved article, effects and fibers, forming the card sliver fed to .
  • the knitting are tied by a thread foreseen just for tying, and the needle does not find any difficulty.
  • This processing flanks but does not reproduce the textile manufactures obtained by the machines for hair fabrics.
  • the additional material consequently forms a fibers fleece that--more or less combed or brushed and with suitable finishings-form hairs able to imitate furs, or able to generate in the fabrics a more or less uniform effect of prominences formed by fibers that are partially projecting and re-entering, creating thus tufts of fibers bridge-like engaged.
  • the machines for hair fabrics are today typically used with an equipment of cylinders and needles having the so called fine fineness (N 10-18), with needles relatively thin and located in channels relatively numerous, on the length unit of the cylinder perimetrical development, so that a remarkable frequency of the drawings of the fibers of the material supplied by the little cards and thus a substantial uniformity and continuity in the distribution of the effect material are achieved.
  • the present invention has the purpose of solving the problem of limiting the costs as much as possible, looking both at the raw materials to be used and at the processings to be carried out, and in addition the invention has the purpose of achieving even the realization of fancy textile manufactures, with particular features and aesthetical effects that it is impossible to achieve by the knitting methods using the fancy flammés yarns or equivalent. Therefore the invention allows even to achieve the double purpose of a higher quality of the textile manufactures, as for the fancy, i.e. the aesthetics reached by them, and of a higher processing facility and thus of a lower cost, in comparison with the traditional realiza- tions.
  • Object of the invention is a process for the production of textile manufactures with fancy effects, according to which a knitting machine for hair fabrics is equipped with thick and relatvely spaced needles (with "thick fineness") is directly fed with textile materials-such as the so-called flames-as effect material; said material is anchored to the structure of the supporting knitted fabrics, by the needles action.
  • the effect materials (flames or other) are fed together with a material, consisting of effect fibers, fed in a substantially uniform way.
  • Suitable needles selections can be prearranged in the control of the machine needles, to reach-by the card slivers or tops material added by flames or other-an additional effect on the ground structure, for example an effect of streaks generated by better linked fibers.
  • an orientation can be imposed-mechanically or pneumatically-suitable to cause an anchorage of said fibers to the support, especially by imposing to the free fibers an orientation from the inside to the outside of the needles circumferential front, after a preliminary orientation towards the inside of the front.
  • the invention also relates to a textile manufacture formed by a supporting knitted fabric structure and by an effect material, characterized in that said effect material comprises flames or fiber clots, which are directly anchored to said supporting knitted fabric structure.
  • Said effect material may comprise a first continuous material in form of card sliver or tops and a second discontinuous material in form of flames or fiber clots, said effect material being anchored to said supporting knitted fabric structure.
  • a machine for hair fabrics is equipped with thick and relatively spaced needles, that is needles with "thick fineness", and as effect material, various effect materials are fed, such as impurities, very little balls, neps, portions of yarns, scraps of fabrics, and also and especially clots of textile fibers, the so called "flames"; these effect materials, being directly fed, result to be unpredictably anchorable to the structure of the supporting knitted fabric achieved by the supporting yarn that has been fed to the machine to form the knitted fabric; moreover, by the use of relatively thick needles, these "flames" or other effects can be fed to the machine without detriment of the integrity of the needles themselves.
  • the feeding of the effect material, formed by the flames or other effect materials can be achieved by suitable ways also traditional.
  • To obtain textile manufactures showing in the structure of the supporting fabric a certain ground uniformity, i.e. a certain fiber thickness it is advantageously provided to feed, together with the flames or other, also a material of effect fibers substantially uniform and continuous. It can be even and advantageously provided to feed the feeding heads, like the so called little cards, by a material of card sliver or tops type loaded, suitably and with a proper frequency, by the proper effects-such as the flames or the fiber clots-that consequently are transported by the continuously fed effect material, that nevertheless is not spun.
  • the effect material-such as the flames or other-fed to carry out the process according to the invention consists of a material that in practice has not been subjected to any particular preparation, and can be partly formed by material arising from poor quality textile fibers, since it must be only processed to form card slivers or tops without requiring to be spun, while on the contrary the spinning is requested for the effect material fed continuously to the traditional knitting machines. Consequently the advantage of using poor quality materials-as for their attitude to be processed-are added to the advantages of processings reduced to a minimum and practically with negligible costs.
  • textile manufactures are then achieved, suitable to show aesthetical characteristics very accentuated and original, that are represented-in the support and ground fabric-by the presence of clots, that is by flames or other concentrations of effect material, that can be particularly remarked and discerned even because of their chromatic characteristics; said flames on the other hand are permanently anchored to the ground fabric and do not have a particular tendency to the stripping of hairs, i.e. to lose fibers.
  • an additional effect is achieved-by the effect material used and in particular by the material of the card sliver or tops type added with the flames-depending on the previously chosen selection of the needles; this additional effect is achieved with the presence of streaks of better linked fibers, with a uniform or not uniform frequency, feasible through said selections.
  • An additional effect may be also achieved by the fibers of the effect material by imposing, mechanically and/or pneumatically, an orientation of the fibers in orderto cause a better anchorage of them to the support; generally this effect is reached by imposing to the free fibers a push from the inside to the outside of the needles circumferential front, after having carried out a preliminary orientation towards the front inside (both by the movement of the clothings of the little cards and by a pneumatic effect used in the machines for hair fabrics).
  • the flames used to reach the effect can be even natural or generated by simple processings of loose fibers, and can be colored both in a uniform way and by mixing flames of various colors to obtain, by the presence offlames of various colors, a presence of color spots in correspondence of the flames anchored to the fabric.
  • the invention allows the positive exploitation of the following characteristic: the flames and clots of various colors of the above textile materials (by-products), in the carding operation carried out to form the card sliver (tops), are only partly open, thus forming around the flame a halo of fibers of the same color that, by the effect of the above fiber orientation system (pneumatic or mechanical) and the relevant knitting, creates, in correspondence of the flames, shades and nuances of a tone on a different tone with a chromatic delimitation sharply more accentuated than that obtained by the flammé yarn in the knitting machines, in addition to a flames demarcation more clean-cut in comparison with what is offered by

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Preparation Of Compounds By Using Micro-Organisms (AREA)
  • Investigating Or Analysing Biological Materials (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Claims (7)

1. Procédé pour la production de produits textiles à effets de fantaisie, caractérisé en ce qu'un métier à tricoter pour des tissus à poil comportant de grosses aiguilles relativement espacées (à "finesse grossière") est directement alimenté au moyen de matières textiles, par exemple celles dites flammes, en tant que matière d'effet, et que la matière d'effet est ancrée dans la structure de tissu tricoté de support, par l'action des aiguilles.
2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, pour réaliser des produits textiles présentant une uniformité de fond substantielle sur le tissu de support, les flammes ou autres matières d'effet sont fournies conjointement avec une matière d'effet fournie d'une manière en substance uniforme.
3. Procédé suivant les revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce qu'une matière d'effet non tissée continue, du type d'un ruban de carde ou d'une mèche, chargée selon une fréquence appropriée au moyen de matières d'effet discontinues, telles que des flammes ou des matons de fibres, est fournie aux têtes fournisseuses du métier pour tissu à poil, ces matières d'effet discontinues étant transportées par la matière d'effet continue.
4. Procédé suivant l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que des sélections d'aiguilles appropriées sont préagen- cées en vue d'obtenir, au moyen de la matière ajoutée en ruban de carde ou en mèche avec les flammes ou autres effets, un effet supplémentaire dans la structure du fond, par exemple des rayures de fibres mieux liées.
5. Procédé suivant l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de la matière d'effet sont orientées par voie mécanique et/ou pneumatique de manière à provoquer leur ancrage dans le support, en particulier en imposant aux fibres libres une orientation allant de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur du front circonférentiel des aiguilles, après une orientation préliminaire vers l'intérieur du front, en tout cas par des machines pour tissus à poil de finesse grossière qui permettent l'ancrage idéal (type d'ancrage en pont) des fibres qui doivent être retricotées.
6. Produit textile formé par une structure de tissu tricoté de support et par une matière d'effet, caractérisé en ce que la matière d'effet comprend des flammes ou des matons de fibres qui sont ancrés directement dans la structure de tissu tricoté de support.
7. Produit textile suivant la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que la matière d'effet comprend une première matière continue en forme de ruban de carde ou de mèche, et une seconde matière discontinue en forme de flammes ou de matons de fibres, cette matière d'effet étant ancrée dans la structure de tissu tricoté de support.
EP85830121A 1984-05-30 1985-05-24 Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication de produits textiles à effet de fantaisie et produits ainsi obtenus Expired EP0168353B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT85830121T ATE43142T1 (de) 1984-05-30 1985-05-24 Verfahren und vorrichtung zur herstellung von textilwaren mit phantasieeffekten und so gefertigte waren.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT8409418A IT1198851B (it) 1984-05-30 1984-05-30 Procedimento ed attrezzatura per laproduzione di un manufatto tessile con effetti di fantasia,e manufatto cosi' realizzato
IT941884 1984-05-30

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0168353A1 EP0168353A1 (fr) 1986-01-15
EP0168353B1 true EP0168353B1 (fr) 1989-05-17

Family

ID=11129850

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP85830121A Expired EP0168353B1 (fr) 1984-05-30 1985-05-24 Procédé et dispositif pour la fabrication de produits textiles à effet de fantaisie et produits ainsi obtenus

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0168353B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE43142T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE3570253D1 (fr)
ES (1) ES8706867A1 (fr)
FI (1) FI852126L (fr)
IT (1) IT1198851B (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10077606B2 (en) 2013-03-27 2018-09-18 Halliburton Energy Services, Inc. Methods of mitigating bituminous material adhesion using nano-particles

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1496654A (en) * 1973-12-18 1977-12-30 Iws Nominee Co Ltd Knitting method with false twist feed
US4111006A (en) * 1976-05-24 1978-09-05 Bunker Ramo Corporation Apparatus for producing patterned deep pile circular knitted fabrics
FR2376911A1 (fr) * 1977-01-07 1978-08-04 Saffron Knitting Cy Ltd Etoffe tricotee composite et machine pour le tricotage d'une telle etoffe
US4244198A (en) * 1978-05-22 1981-01-13 Schaab Rudolph S Sliver loop knit fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE43142T1 (de) 1989-06-15
FI852126A7 (fi) 1985-12-01
IT8409418A0 (it) 1984-05-30
FI852126L (fi) 1985-12-01
ES8706867A1 (es) 1987-07-01
FI852126A0 (fi) 1985-05-28
ES543612A0 (es) 1987-07-01
EP0168353A1 (fr) 1986-01-15
DE3570253D1 (en) 1989-06-22
IT1198851B (it) 1988-12-21

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