EP0196455B1 - Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen - Google Patents
Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0196455B1 EP0196455B1 EP86102482A EP86102482A EP0196455B1 EP 0196455 B1 EP0196455 B1 EP 0196455B1 EP 86102482 A EP86102482 A EP 86102482A EP 86102482 A EP86102482 A EP 86102482A EP 0196455 B1 EP0196455 B1 EP 0196455B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stones
- notches
- culet
- stone
- metal
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 229910001751 gemstone Inorganic materials 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000873 masking effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011505 plaster Substances 0.000 description 2
- OANVFVBYPNXRLD-UHFFFAOYSA-M propyromazine bromide Chemical compound [Br-].C12=CC=CC=C2SC2=CC=CC=C2N1C(=O)C(C)[N+]1(C)CCCC1 OANVFVBYPNXRLD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910001020 Au alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 206010013647 Drowning Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004512 die casting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003353 gold alloy Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001338 liquidmetal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005058 metal casting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000510 noble metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000005498 polishing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003002 synthetic resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000057 synthetic resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
- A44C17/046—Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for setting gemstones, applicable to all fine stones and more particularly to diamonds.
- the invention also covers the seams obtained by means of this process.
- the document FR-A-2 366 812 teaches a process for the manufacture of jewelry comprising at least one stone embedded in a frame made of a noble metal and maintained by crimping, which consists in making an exact model of the jewel to realize, the model comprising the set stone (s), to make a mold, for example rubber, from the model, to mold an element having the exact shape of the final metal frame in a deformable plastic, to assemble several elements deformable on a support made of the same deformable plastic, mounting the stones in the deformable elements, drowning the assembly thus obtained in a mixture based on plaster and water, heat treating the block thus obtained to eliminate the plastic elements, then abruptly bringing said block to a temperature compatible with the correct casting of metal, pouring the metal constituting the final frame, after cooling r the mold in the open air, break the mold and carry out the machining, polishing and other finishing treatments.
- the present invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by providing a simple and rapid setting process which cannot harm the value of stones, in particular diamonds, the setting of which remains invisible and the luster unchanged.
- the metal penetrates into the notches while forming said grid in a single perfectly solid block, the elements of the grid occupying a limited space placed so that they are invisible from the table side.
- a jewelry diamond comprises a table 1 of width 2 with for example two facets 2 and a general reference yoke 3, normally provided with facets such as facets 4 and 5.
- a very slight notch 6 is practiced, (shown very enlarged for clarity), at each angle 8 of the yoke formed by the facet 4 of said yoke adjacent to the laminate 9 which delimits the upper part 1, 2 and the cylinder head 3 of the stone.
- the notches have a very shallow depth and the distance L separating the bottom of two opposite notches 6, 7 is much greater than the width of the table 1 and does not extend inwards beyond the first facet 2 adjacent to the laminate 9.
- Such notches, miniaturized, are advantageously made with a "laser", so that they have the necessary fineness and precision.
- all the stones assembled are temporarily kept in the desired shape, for example by means of modeling wax in which the cylinder heads 3 are stitched, while masking the table side of the stones by means of plaster forming a stable support.
- the wax is then eliminated, which is replaced by a synthetic resin which, on hardening, forms a support block, which is then introduced into a molding cylinder known per se in jewelry and into which a metal is introduced by die casting, for example a gold alloy.
- the resin is then eliminated and destroyed, while the liquid metal is inserted into the notches 6, 7 as light as they are, and forms a thin bead 10 between the facets 4 adjacent to the laminate of juxtaposed stones.
- the beads 10 thus produced form the elements of a metal grid in a single block and, by the inclination of the facets 2 as well as the fact that neither the notches already hardly visible in themselves, nor the beads, are arranged in line with the stone tables 1, the grid thus formed remains invisible on the table side while ensuring a perfectly solid hold. It is clear that this arrangement has a considerable advantage compared to mounting methods with rails or claws requiring deep notches and that it does not in any way harm the value of the stones, because of the miniaturization of the notches.
Landscapes
- Adornments (AREA)
- Farming Of Fish And Shellfish (AREA)
- Paper (AREA)
- Percussion Or Vibration Massage (AREA)
Claims (3)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| AT86102482T ATE48074T1 (de) | 1985-03-07 | 1986-02-26 | Verfahren zum fassen von edelsteinen. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8503384A FR2578400B1 (fr) | 1985-03-07 | 1985-03-07 | Procede de sertissage de pierres de joaillerie |
| FR8503384 | 1985-03-07 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0196455A1 EP0196455A1 (de) | 1986-10-08 |
| EP0196455B1 true EP0196455B1 (de) | 1989-11-23 |
Family
ID=9316975
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP86102482A Expired EP0196455B1 (de) | 1985-03-07 | 1986-02-26 | Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US4813246A (de) |
| EP (1) | EP0196455B1 (de) |
| JP (1) | JPS61206404A (de) |
| AT (1) | ATE48074T1 (de) |
| DE (1) | DE3667018D1 (de) |
| FR (1) | FR2578400B1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (31)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE3934484C1 (de) * | 1989-10-16 | 1991-03-21 | D. Swarovski & Co., Wattens, At | |
| IL92063A (en) * | 1989-10-20 | 1993-06-10 | Boaz Ramot | Invisible gemstone setting |
| US5072601A (en) * | 1990-09-18 | 1991-12-17 | Christopher Slowinski | Diamond setting |
| US5115649A (en) * | 1991-06-10 | 1992-05-26 | Ambar Diamonds, Inc. | Invisible setting for round diamonds |
| USD349072S (en) | 1992-11-23 | 1994-07-26 | Betzalel Ambar | Jewelry ring |
| DE4429665C2 (de) * | 1994-08-12 | 1998-08-06 | Armin Voswinkel | Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstücks |
| US5690477A (en) * | 1996-07-08 | 1997-11-25 | Nili Jewelry, Corp. | Invisible setting method for jewelry |
| USRE37854E1 (en) * | 1996-07-08 | 2002-09-24 | Nili Jewelry, Corp. | Invisible setting method for jewelry |
| USD395255S (en) | 1996-10-23 | 1998-06-16 | Fine Jewellery Ltd. | Ring |
| US6026660A (en) * | 1997-05-13 | 2000-02-22 | Gramercy Enterprises Corp. | Jewelry setting |
| US5974830A (en) * | 1997-08-08 | 1999-11-02 | Colero; Michael A. | Jewelry suspension harness |
| CH693662A5 (fr) * | 1998-09-02 | 2003-12-15 | Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd | Pièce de bijouterie. |
| US6112552A (en) * | 1999-01-12 | 2000-09-05 | Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. | Gemstone setting and method of using |
| US6412304B1 (en) | 1999-05-24 | 2002-07-02 | Stuart J. Adelman | Jewelry |
| US6065307C1 (en) * | 1999-06-14 | 2001-10-30 | Fabrikant And Sons M | Corner cut precious square stones |
| US6415629B1 (en) | 1999-11-19 | 2002-07-09 | Continential Jewelry (Usa) Inc. | Apparatus for setting precious gems in jewelry through the use of screws and other stabilizing means |
| FR2803988A1 (fr) * | 2000-01-21 | 2001-07-27 | Eric Hamers | Procede d'enchassement d'une pierre en joaillerie |
| USD453706S1 (en) | 2000-10-26 | 2002-02-19 | Gramercy Jewelry Manufacturing Corp. | Jewelry setting |
| USD445355S1 (en) | 2000-10-27 | 2001-07-24 | Gramercy Jewelry Manufacturing Corp. | Jewelry setting |
| US6550275B2 (en) | 2001-02-23 | 2003-04-22 | Daniel R. Steinberg | Rounded gemstone setting |
| US6564583B2 (en) | 2001-04-24 | 2003-05-20 | Martin Gruber Gruber | Jewelry with girdle-grooved stone |
| AT412402B (de) * | 2003-05-23 | 2005-02-25 | Swarovski & Co | Verfahren zur herstellung eines schmuckstückes |
| US20050005639A1 (en) * | 2003-06-27 | 2005-01-13 | Simen Shagalov | Precious stone setting |
| CA2622887C (en) * | 2005-09-22 | 2014-11-18 | Tyco Healthcare Group Lp | Safety needle with lockout mechanism |
| US20080016912A1 (en) * | 2006-05-24 | 2008-01-24 | Rafael Gutierrez | Gemstone Setting Arrangement and Method for Setting a Gemstone |
| US8096146B1 (en) * | 2008-03-13 | 2012-01-17 | Jewelex New York, Ltd. | Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting |
| ES2480280T3 (es) | 2009-11-25 | 2014-07-25 | Dress Your Body Ag | Pieza decorativa de engaste invisible |
| US10334919B2 (en) * | 2012-08-20 | 2019-07-02 | Forever Mount, LLC. | Brazed joint for attachment of gemstones to each other and/or a metallic mount |
| EP2884865B1 (de) * | 2012-08-20 | 2017-12-27 | Forever Mount, LLC | Lötverbindung zur befestigung von edelsteinen |
| US20140190209A1 (en) * | 2013-01-07 | 2014-07-10 | Arthur Joseph LIPTON | Diamond clusters defining various shapes |
| FR3079116B1 (fr) | 2018-03-21 | 2020-03-20 | Hamard Vitau | Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe. |
Family Cites Families (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB432074A (en) * | 1933-12-02 | 1935-07-19 | Cleef & Arpels Van | Improvements in or relating to settings for preferably precious stones |
| CH192892A (fr) * | 1936-01-04 | 1937-09-15 | Pasche Auguste | Procédé pour fabriquer une monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie montées, appareillage pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie obtenue au moyen de ce procédé. |
| FR802367A (fr) * | 1936-02-24 | 1936-09-03 | Cleef & Arpels Van | Perfectionnements aux montures de pierres précieuses |
| US2790220A (en) * | 1956-01-27 | 1957-04-30 | Robert L Fox | Process for making jewelry |
| US3192620A (en) * | 1961-08-29 | 1965-07-06 | Philips Corp | Method of joining diamond to metal |
| DE2623192B2 (de) * | 1976-05-24 | 1980-01-31 | J.E. Hammer & Soehne, 7530 Pforzheim | Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen in Schmuckkörpern aus Edelmetall |
| FR2366812A1 (fr) * | 1976-10-05 | 1978-05-05 | Roure Creations Sa Alain | Procede pour la fabrication de bijoux comportant au moins une pierre sertie |
-
1985
- 1985-03-07 FR FR8503384A patent/FR2578400B1/fr not_active Expired
-
1986
- 1986-02-24 US US06/832,245 patent/US4813246A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1986-02-26 DE DE8686102482T patent/DE3667018D1/de not_active Expired
- 1986-02-26 AT AT86102482T patent/ATE48074T1/de active
- 1986-02-26 EP EP86102482A patent/EP0196455B1/de not_active Expired
- 1986-03-05 JP JP61048167A patent/JPS61206404A/ja active Pending
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2578400B1 (fr) | 1987-07-03 |
| FR2578400A1 (fr) | 1986-09-12 |
| US4813246A (en) | 1989-03-21 |
| ATE48074T1 (de) | 1989-12-15 |
| EP0196455A1 (de) | 1986-10-08 |
| JPS61206404A (ja) | 1986-09-12 |
| DE3667018D1 (en) | 1989-12-28 |
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|---|---|---|---|
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