EP0196455B1 - Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0196455B1
EP0196455B1 EP86102482A EP86102482A EP0196455B1 EP 0196455 B1 EP0196455 B1 EP 0196455B1 EP 86102482 A EP86102482 A EP 86102482A EP 86102482 A EP86102482 A EP 86102482A EP 0196455 B1 EP0196455 B1 EP 0196455B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
notches
culet
stone
metal
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP86102482A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0196455A1 (de
Inventor
Camille Richards
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT86102482T priority Critical patent/ATE48074T1/de
Publication of EP0196455A1 publication Critical patent/EP0196455A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0196455B1 publication Critical patent/EP0196455B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/046Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for setting gemstones, applicable to all fine stones and more particularly to diamonds.
  • the invention also covers the seams obtained by means of this process.
  • the document FR-A-2 366 812 teaches a process for the manufacture of jewelry comprising at least one stone embedded in a frame made of a noble metal and maintained by crimping, which consists in making an exact model of the jewel to realize, the model comprising the set stone (s), to make a mold, for example rubber, from the model, to mold an element having the exact shape of the final metal frame in a deformable plastic, to assemble several elements deformable on a support made of the same deformable plastic, mounting the stones in the deformable elements, drowning the assembly thus obtained in a mixture based on plaster and water, heat treating the block thus obtained to eliminate the plastic elements, then abruptly bringing said block to a temperature compatible with the correct casting of metal, pouring the metal constituting the final frame, after cooling r the mold in the open air, break the mold and carry out the machining, polishing and other finishing treatments.
  • the present invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by providing a simple and rapid setting process which cannot harm the value of stones, in particular diamonds, the setting of which remains invisible and the luster unchanged.
  • the metal penetrates into the notches while forming said grid in a single perfectly solid block, the elements of the grid occupying a limited space placed so that they are invisible from the table side.
  • a jewelry diamond comprises a table 1 of width 2 with for example two facets 2 and a general reference yoke 3, normally provided with facets such as facets 4 and 5.
  • a very slight notch 6 is practiced, (shown very enlarged for clarity), at each angle 8 of the yoke formed by the facet 4 of said yoke adjacent to the laminate 9 which delimits the upper part 1, 2 and the cylinder head 3 of the stone.
  • the notches have a very shallow depth and the distance L separating the bottom of two opposite notches 6, 7 is much greater than the width of the table 1 and does not extend inwards beyond the first facet 2 adjacent to the laminate 9.
  • Such notches, miniaturized, are advantageously made with a "laser", so that they have the necessary fineness and precision.
  • all the stones assembled are temporarily kept in the desired shape, for example by means of modeling wax in which the cylinder heads 3 are stitched, while masking the table side of the stones by means of plaster forming a stable support.
  • the wax is then eliminated, which is replaced by a synthetic resin which, on hardening, forms a support block, which is then introduced into a molding cylinder known per se in jewelry and into which a metal is introduced by die casting, for example a gold alloy.
  • the resin is then eliminated and destroyed, while the liquid metal is inserted into the notches 6, 7 as light as they are, and forms a thin bead 10 between the facets 4 adjacent to the laminate of juxtaposed stones.
  • the beads 10 thus produced form the elements of a metal grid in a single block and, by the inclination of the facets 2 as well as the fact that neither the notches already hardly visible in themselves, nor the beads, are arranged in line with the stone tables 1, the grid thus formed remains invisible on the table side while ensuring a perfectly solid hold. It is clear that this arrangement has a considerable advantage compared to mounting methods with rails or claws requiring deep notches and that it does not in any way harm the value of the stones, because of the miniaturization of the notches.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Farming Of Fish And Shellfish (AREA)
  • Paper (AREA)
  • Percussion Or Vibration Massage (AREA)

Claims (3)

1. Verfahren zur Einfassung von Edelsteinen, insbesondere von Diamanten, bei dem man die Steine zunächst am Unterteil befestigt, eine provisorische Befestigung der aus den eingefaßten Steinen bestehenden Einheit vornimmt und ein zur Bildung eines endgültigen Haltegitters bestimmtes Metall vergießt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man an den Ecken (8) des Unterteils leichte Einkerbungen (6, 7) anbringt, die von so geringer Tiefe sind, daß der Abstand (L) zwischen dem Boden der beiden einander gegenüberliegenden Einkerbungen weit größer ist als die diagonale Breite (f) der Oberseite (1) des Steins und nach innen nicht über die erste Facette (2) oberhalb der Spaltbarkeitsrichtung (9) hinausragt, daß man die provisorische Befestigung der aus eingefaßten Steinen bestehenden Einheit dadurch bewerkstelligt, daß man ausschließlich deren Oberseite abdeckt und anschließend das Metall in einer Weise eingießt, daß das Haltegitter (10) ausschließlich am Unterteil gebildet wird.
2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man in Höhe der ersten Facette (4) unterhalb der Spaltbarkeitsrichtung (9) leichte Einkerbungen (6, 7) vornimmt.
3. Edelsteinfassung, hergestellt nach dem Verfahren gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, wobei das gegossene Gitter (10) von der Oberseite der Steine her nicht zu sehen ist, während das Befestigungsmetall in die leichten Einkerbungen (6, 7) an den Ecken (8) des Unterteils der Steine eingegossen wird und einen dünnen Wulst zwischen den an die Spaltbarkeitsrichtung (9) angrenzenden Facetten (4) am Unterteil der nebeneinanderliegenden Steine bildet.
EP86102482A 1985-03-07 1986-02-26 Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen Expired EP0196455B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT86102482T ATE48074T1 (de) 1985-03-07 1986-02-26 Verfahren zum fassen von edelsteinen.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8503384A FR2578400B1 (fr) 1985-03-07 1985-03-07 Procede de sertissage de pierres de joaillerie
FR8503384 1985-03-07

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0196455A1 EP0196455A1 (de) 1986-10-08
EP0196455B1 true EP0196455B1 (de) 1989-11-23

Family

ID=9316975

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86102482A Expired EP0196455B1 (de) 1985-03-07 1986-02-26 Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US4813246A (de)
EP (1) EP0196455B1 (de)
JP (1) JPS61206404A (de)
AT (1) ATE48074T1 (de)
DE (1) DE3667018D1 (de)
FR (1) FR2578400B1 (de)

Families Citing this family (31)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3934484C1 (de) * 1989-10-16 1991-03-21 D. Swarovski & Co., Wattens, At
IL92063A (en) * 1989-10-20 1993-06-10 Boaz Ramot Invisible gemstone setting
US5072601A (en) * 1990-09-18 1991-12-17 Christopher Slowinski Diamond setting
US5115649A (en) * 1991-06-10 1992-05-26 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for round diamonds
USD349072S (en) 1992-11-23 1994-07-26 Betzalel Ambar Jewelry ring
DE4429665C2 (de) * 1994-08-12 1998-08-06 Armin Voswinkel Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstücks
US5690477A (en) * 1996-07-08 1997-11-25 Nili Jewelry, Corp. Invisible setting method for jewelry
USRE37854E1 (en) * 1996-07-08 2002-09-24 Nili Jewelry, Corp. Invisible setting method for jewelry
USD395255S (en) 1996-10-23 1998-06-16 Fine Jewellery Ltd. Ring
US6026660A (en) * 1997-05-13 2000-02-22 Gramercy Enterprises Corp. Jewelry setting
US5974830A (en) * 1997-08-08 1999-11-02 Colero; Michael A. Jewelry suspension harness
CH693662A5 (fr) * 1998-09-02 2003-12-15 Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd Pièce de bijouterie.
US6112552A (en) * 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
US6412304B1 (en) 1999-05-24 2002-07-02 Stuart J. Adelman Jewelry
US6065307C1 (en) * 1999-06-14 2001-10-30 Fabrikant And Sons M Corner cut precious square stones
US6415629B1 (en) 1999-11-19 2002-07-09 Continential Jewelry (Usa) Inc. Apparatus for setting precious gems in jewelry through the use of screws and other stabilizing means
FR2803988A1 (fr) * 2000-01-21 2001-07-27 Eric Hamers Procede d'enchassement d'une pierre en joaillerie
USD453706S1 (en) 2000-10-26 2002-02-19 Gramercy Jewelry Manufacturing Corp. Jewelry setting
USD445355S1 (en) 2000-10-27 2001-07-24 Gramercy Jewelry Manufacturing Corp. Jewelry setting
US6550275B2 (en) 2001-02-23 2003-04-22 Daniel R. Steinberg Rounded gemstone setting
US6564583B2 (en) 2001-04-24 2003-05-20 Martin Gruber Gruber Jewelry with girdle-grooved stone
AT412402B (de) * 2003-05-23 2005-02-25 Swarovski & Co Verfahren zur herstellung eines schmuckstückes
US20050005639A1 (en) * 2003-06-27 2005-01-13 Simen Shagalov Precious stone setting
CA2622887C (en) * 2005-09-22 2014-11-18 Tyco Healthcare Group Lp Safety needle with lockout mechanism
US20080016912A1 (en) * 2006-05-24 2008-01-24 Rafael Gutierrez Gemstone Setting Arrangement and Method for Setting a Gemstone
US8096146B1 (en) * 2008-03-13 2012-01-17 Jewelex New York, Ltd. Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting
ES2480280T3 (es) 2009-11-25 2014-07-25 Dress Your Body Ag Pieza decorativa de engaste invisible
US10334919B2 (en) * 2012-08-20 2019-07-02 Forever Mount, LLC. Brazed joint for attachment of gemstones to each other and/or a metallic mount
EP2884865B1 (de) * 2012-08-20 2017-12-27 Forever Mount, LLC Lötverbindung zur befestigung von edelsteinen
US20140190209A1 (en) * 2013-01-07 2014-07-10 Arthur Joseph LIPTON Diamond clusters defining various shapes
FR3079116B1 (fr) 2018-03-21 2020-03-20 Hamard Vitau Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe.

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB432074A (en) * 1933-12-02 1935-07-19 Cleef & Arpels Van Improvements in or relating to settings for preferably precious stones
CH192892A (fr) * 1936-01-04 1937-09-15 Pasche Auguste Procédé pour fabriquer une monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie montées, appareillage pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie obtenue au moyen de ce procédé.
FR802367A (fr) * 1936-02-24 1936-09-03 Cleef & Arpels Van Perfectionnements aux montures de pierres précieuses
US2790220A (en) * 1956-01-27 1957-04-30 Robert L Fox Process for making jewelry
US3192620A (en) * 1961-08-29 1965-07-06 Philips Corp Method of joining diamond to metal
DE2623192B2 (de) * 1976-05-24 1980-01-31 J.E. Hammer & Soehne, 7530 Pforzheim Verfahren zum Fassen von Edelsteinen in Schmuckkörpern aus Edelmetall
FR2366812A1 (fr) * 1976-10-05 1978-05-05 Roure Creations Sa Alain Procede pour la fabrication de bijoux comportant au moins une pierre sertie

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2578400B1 (fr) 1987-07-03
FR2578400A1 (fr) 1986-09-12
US4813246A (en) 1989-03-21
ATE48074T1 (de) 1989-12-15
EP0196455A1 (de) 1986-10-08
JPS61206404A (ja) 1986-09-12
DE3667018D1 (en) 1989-12-28

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