EP0930835B1 - Verfharen zum fassen von steinen an durch elektroformung hergestellten schmuck und so erhaltener schmuck - Google Patents

Verfharen zum fassen von steinen an durch elektroformung hergestellten schmuck und so erhaltener schmuck Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0930835B1
EP0930835B1 EP97944943A EP97944943A EP0930835B1 EP 0930835 B1 EP0930835 B1 EP 0930835B1 EP 97944943 A EP97944943 A EP 97944943A EP 97944943 A EP97944943 A EP 97944943A EP 0930835 B1 EP0930835 B1 EP 0930835B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jewel
stones
stone
base
layer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP97944943A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0930835A1 (de
Inventor
William Pierre
Michel Charrier
Daniel Grellier
Christian Manuel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pgcm Conception
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Pgcm Conception
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pgcm Conception filed Critical Pgcm Conception
Publication of EP0930835A1 publication Critical patent/EP0930835A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0930835B1 publication Critical patent/EP0930835B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/02—Tubes; Rings; Hollow bodies
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
    • Y10T29/49863—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part
    • Y10T29/49876—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part by snap fit

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the production of pieces of jewelry by electroforming and more particularly with the embedding of stones precious, semi-precious or synthetic in the surface of a jewel metallic, especially gold.
  • a solid tin alloy base with outwardly shaped and dimensions to the thickness near the gold layer which will be electro-deposited from the Creole to obtain.
  • the base is then coated by electro-deposition with a very thin layer of copper to separate the gold layer from the tin and then layer of gold that can vary between 120 and 450 micrometers compared to weight of the desired jewel.
  • the process for depositing gold is as follows. On the layer of copper and before placing the stones, we deposit a fine layer of gold, for example fifteen micrometers. The stones are then placed in the receiving housings. A new layer of gold is deposited, of a thickness for example between 100 and 400 micrometers, followed by a protective layer of copper.
  • the tin base is extracted thermally, then the copper, by chemical treatment.
  • a hollow creole is thus obtained with the stones trapped in the surface, whose shapes and reliefs are determined by those of the base that gold married by depositing in a thin layer.
  • the present invention aims precisely to allow imprisonment solidly the stones and without substantial increase in thickness and therefore the weight of the wall of the jewel.
  • the subject of the invention is a method of embedding stones in the surface of a jewel made by electroforming, in which realizes a base presenting externally the shapes and dimensions to the thickness near the layer of gold forming the wall of the jewel to be obtained and fitted housing for receiving stones, deposit on the base, before setting place stones, a protective layer, then a thin layer of gold, we place the stones in said housing, then place a second thicker layer of gold, and finally extracting or removing said base and said protective layer, characterized in that during the production of the base, at at least one passage is provided at the right of each dwelling, likely to communicate, once the stone in place, the space between it and the bottom of its housing with the outside, so as to allow the bath to deposit of said second layer of gold to access said space.
  • the invention also relates to the jewelry obtained in accordance to the above process.
  • FIGs 1 to 3 there is shown by way of example a base traditional 1, for example of tin alloy, for the production of a part of hollow jewelry of generally parallelepiped shape having a pattern of flower with four petals 2 surrounding a circular central zone 3 intended for receive for example a semi-precious stone 4 (figure 6) in the form traditional diamond.
  • a well 5 intended to serve as housing for stone 4.
  • the housing 5 In order to receive the stone belt 4, the housing 5 is provided with recesses 6, in the known manner. Light elevations 7 intended to represent the petals 2 are provided on the surface of the base, the ends of which facing the well 5 have, in accordance with the invention, a nose 8 slightly recessed r (FIG. 2) from the internal wall from the well 5 and projecting above said recesses 6.
  • the elevations 7 are at a distance from each other and separate two by two by channels 9 which extend radially from the well 5.
  • the first steps in the electrodeposition process are conventional. They consist in depositing beforehand on base 1 a protective metal layer 10 (FIG. 4), typically copper, on a thickness of 5 micrometers for example, over the entire surface of the based.
  • a protective metal layer 10 typically copper
  • the two deposited layers being of regular thickness, we find the slight shrinkage r between the wall of the well 5 and the nose 8 of the elevations 7.
  • the stone 4 is thus kept away from the bottom of the well 5. It is note in this connection that in this position, the bottoms of channels 9 emerge into well 5 well below the level of the waist the stone 4.
  • a second layer of gold 12 of thickness significantly greater than that of the first 10, for example between 120 and 430 micrometers.
  • the deposit bath accesses easily in the space between the stone and the bottom of the housing 5 to deposit the same layer 12, the front of which comes in 13 in contact with the back side of stone 4, while the front of layer 12 visible in outside of the housing 5 comes in 14 in contact with the table crown of the Pierre.
  • the final stages are conventional and consist in extracting by heat treatment the base and chemically remove the copper layer 10, a second protective copper layer (not shown in the drawings) can be, before the above treatments, deposited over the gold layer 12.
  • the final object obtained is a hollow jewel, the part of which bears the stone 4 is shown enlarged in Figure 9.
  • the table 15 of the stone can be at the level of the ends in look of the petals 2 of the decorative pattern or at a different level.
  • the invention is obviously not limited to the embodiment shown and described above, but on the contrary covers all variants in particular with regard to the nature, shape and dimensions of the jewel, the number of stones 4, their shape, the shapes and dimensions of the receiving housings, number, shape, arrangement of channel (s) 9 or the like intended to convey the gold deposit bath under the stones in place in their housing, as well as the shape, dimensions and distribution of parts such as the noses 8 of the elevations 7, decorative or not, intended to allow engagement by clipping of the stones in their housing, before depositing the second layer of gold, or other metal or precious alloy.

Landscapes

  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Verfahren zum Einlassen von Steinen (4) in ein durch Elektroformung verwirklichtes Schmuckstück, bei dem eine Basis (1) hergestellt wird, die außen bis auf die Dicke der die Wand des Schmuckstücks bildenden Goldschicht die zu erhaltenden Formen und Abmessungen besitzt und mit Aufnahmesitzen (5) für die Aufnahme von Steinen (4) versehen ist, vor der Anordnung der Steine auf die Basis (1) eine Schutzschicht (10) und dann eine dünne Goldschicht (11) aufgebracht werden, die Steine (4) in den Aufnahmesitzen (5) angeordnet werden, anschließend eine zweite Goldschicht (12) mit größerer Dicke aufgebracht wird und schließlich die Basis (1) und die Schutzschicht (10) entnommen oder herausgezogen werden, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß bei der Herstellung der Basis (1) wenigstens ein Durchgang (9) am Ort jedes Aufnahmesitzes (5) ausgebildet wird, der geeignet ist, sobald der Stein (4) angeordnet ist, eine Verbindung zwischen dem Raum zwischen diesem letzteren und dem Boden seines Aufnahmesitzes (5) einerseits und der äußeren Umgebung andererseits herzustellen, so daß das Bad zur Aufbringung der zweiten Goldschicht (12) in den Raum eindringen kann.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß außerdem bei der Herstellung der Basis (1) Erhöhungen (7) ausgebildet werden, wovon ein Teil (8) über den Aufnahmehohlraum (6) eines Steins (4) in einem Loch (5) vorsteht, wobei der Stein durch Einrasten in dem Loch ergriffen wird.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Durchlässe, die eine Verbindung für den Raum zwischen jedem Stein (4) und dem Boden seines Aufnahmesitzes (5) herstellen, Kanäle (9) oder dergleichen sind, die zwischen die Erhöhungen (7) eingefügt sind.
  4. Schmuckstück, erhalten gemäß dem Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3.
  5. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß es hohl ist und die Dicke der Wand, die die Wand der Löcher (5) unter den Steinen (4) umfaßt, konstant ist.
  6. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Dicke der Wand im Bereich von 135 bis 450 Mikrometern liegt.
EP97944943A 1996-10-09 1997-10-08 Verfharen zum fassen von steinen an durch elektroformung hergestellten schmuck und so erhaltener schmuck Expired - Lifetime EP0930835B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9612580A FR2754152B1 (fr) 1996-10-09 1996-10-09 Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu
FR9612580 1996-10-09
PCT/FR1997/001795 WO1998015202A1 (fr) 1996-10-09 1997-10-08 Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0930835A1 EP0930835A1 (de) 1999-07-28
EP0930835B1 true EP0930835B1 (de) 2001-06-27

Family

ID=9496694

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP97944943A Expired - Lifetime EP0930835B1 (de) 1996-10-09 1997-10-08 Verfharen zum fassen von steinen an durch elektroformung hergestellten schmuck und so erhaltener schmuck

Country Status (11)

Country Link
US (1) US6212745B1 (de)
EP (1) EP0930835B1 (de)
CN (1) CN1237093A (de)
AT (1) ATE202458T1 (de)
DE (1) DE69705418T2 (de)
ES (1) ES2159881T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2754152B1 (de)
GR (1) GR3036697T3 (de)
IL (1) IL129369A (de)
PT (1) PT930835E (de)
WO (1) WO1998015202A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (19)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000057743A2 (en) * 1999-03-26 2000-10-05 Laser Optronic Technologies (Proprietary) Limited Setting of gemstones
US20050274445A1 (en) * 2004-06-01 2005-12-15 Paul Chang Method for manufacturing decoration of imitation metal
ES2224892B1 (es) 2004-07-26 2006-06-01 Clemente Navarro Fabregat, S.A. Procedimiento para la fabricacion de piezas de joyeria y piezas de joyeria obtenida.
US20080066310A1 (en) * 2006-09-05 2008-03-20 Siu Chung Pang Setting stones in the surface of electroformed piece
US8328073B1 (en) * 2008-02-07 2012-12-11 Standard Chain Co. Ornamented metallic mesh and method of making same
EP2106716A1 (de) * 2008-04-01 2009-10-07 The Swatch Group Management Services AG Tragbarer Gegenstand zu Schmuckzwecken
ES2328780B2 (es) 2008-11-25 2010-06-01 Rafael Gomez Sanchez, S.A. Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento.
CN101828799A (zh) * 2009-03-11 2010-09-15 栢莱化工有限公司 制造硬质金珠宝的方法
US9345294B2 (en) * 2009-11-25 2016-05-24 Dress Your Body Ag Invisible set decorative part
EP2549341A1 (de) 2011-07-20 2013-01-23 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zum Einsetzen einer Verzierung in einem Uhrenverkleidungselement, mittels Galvanoplastik abgeschieden, und nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Verkleidungselement
US10772396B2 (en) * 2012-12-21 2020-09-15 Omega S.A. Decorative piece produced by setting on amorphous metal
CN104593831A (zh) * 2015-01-26 2015-05-06 黄盛平 利用3d贵金属技术制作手表的方法
WO2017005284A1 (de) * 2015-07-05 2017-01-12 D. Swarovski Kg Schmucksteinfassung mit kupferpatina
CN107345306A (zh) * 2017-07-24 2017-11-14 彭少中 一种电铸蜡镶珠宝工艺
EP3479721B1 (de) * 2017-11-07 2020-05-13 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
EP3479720B1 (de) * 2017-11-07 2020-03-25 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
CN108244782B (zh) * 2018-01-26 2019-11-12 深圳市铭冠珠宝首饰有限公司 一种饰品珠宝镶嵌工艺
EP3771359B1 (de) * 2019-07-29 2023-05-10 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Verfahren zum fassen eines steins
IT202100025787A1 (it) * 2021-10-08 2023-04-08 Bp Consulting Di Barbieri Paolo Procedimento per la realizzazione di gioielli cavi in metallo prezioso con pietre incastonate

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4543803A (en) * 1983-11-30 1985-10-01 Mark Keyasko Lightweight, rigid, metal product and process for producing same
DE3544429A1 (de) * 1985-12-16 1987-06-19 Juwedor Gmbh Verfahren zur galvanoplastischen herstellung von schmuckwaren
FR2627512A1 (fr) * 1988-02-23 1989-08-25 Or Est Procede de sertissage par electroformage
EP0620987A1 (de) * 1993-04-22 1994-10-26 Firma Franz Breuning Schmucksteinbefestigung
FR2717051B1 (fr) * 1994-03-11 1996-08-02 Pgcm Conception Procédé de sertissage de pièces de bijouterie réalisées par électroformage et pièces ainsi obtenues.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO1998015202A8 (fr) 2001-05-31
IL129369A0 (en) 2000-02-17
GR3036697T3 (en) 2001-12-31
FR2754152B1 (fr) 1998-12-24
FR2754152A1 (fr) 1998-04-10
CN1237093A (zh) 1999-12-01
US6212745B1 (en) 2001-04-10
PT930835E (pt) 2001-12-28
EP0930835A1 (de) 1999-07-28
IL129369A (en) 2001-09-13
DE69705418D1 (de) 2001-08-02
DE69705418T2 (de) 2002-05-29
ES2159881T3 (es) 2001-10-16
WO1998015202A1 (fr) 1998-04-16
ATE202458T1 (de) 2001-07-15

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